66
ANTARCTICA
quite catching up. Just after dinner, our expedition leader Dr Gary Miller, announces our arrival at the Drake Passage and it’s time to batten down the hatches as we enter some of the most tumultuous waters on the globe.
Above: a newly hatched Gentoo chick; bedding down in the ice is one of Aurora's most popular excursions. Right: touring the icebergs of Neko Harbour; seals are among the most popular species encountered; the dramatic view at Cape Horn
www.jetsetter.hk
There’s nothing quite like five-metre sweels and 40-knot winds to bring out the explorer in you, and Aurora’s open bridge policy ensures those who venture up the ship’s narrow staircases feel like part of the Russian crew as they cling to supports and watch whitecaps slam against the hull, a cascade of cold, green sea pounding against the bridge’s windows. That’s what Antarctica cruising is all about; it’s a journey to a remote land wreathed by turbulent seas and capped with inhospitable ice, ensuring only the most willing ever venture this far south. The Drake Passage and the icy environment are not the only detractors; international conventions strictly enforce rules on the number of tourists allowed to visit each season, ensuring it remains pristine. The few cruise companies that are allowed to land
passengers on the continent (most of the estimated 40,000 visitors annually arrive by ship, with many on ‘cruise by’ itineraries that never actually land) are regulated by the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators and the number of travellers allowed on the ice at any one time, and what they do when they arrive, is all strictly monitored. Aurora Expeditions has been cruising to the Antarctic Peninsula, as well as many other remote locations, since the 1990s, and offers a truly authentic take on polar exploration for a lucky handful of travellers; the Polar Pioneer, a former Russian spy ship that’s much smaller than many of the other vessels that venture so far south, is far from luxurious. But instead its hardy crew, comfort cuisine, and compact but practical cabins offer a true sense of how the many scientific teams live as they visit the White Continent. In fact, Aurora’s marine crew is complemented by a dedicated team of polar junkies - naturalists, biologists and photographers - on hand to lead visitors through this truly unique encounter with guided excursions and insightful onboard briefings.