Foodies of New England Summer 2016 V16

Page 32

The history of the inn dates to 1889, when Archibald Comstock

they were coy about reserving the right to not reveal individual pur-

built his grand house and outbuildings on 53 acres in the Ivoryton

veyors—a common plea among those coastal places who have

section of Essex. Archibald was the son of Samuel Comstock,

great covert connections among their regional fishing contacts!

founder of the S.M. Comstock Co., a chief importer of ivory and

Some of the other popular opening dishes offered are:

manufacturer of piano keys. When Archibald inherited the busi-

House smoked salmon with avocado, jumbo lump crab and

ness and company, known as Comstock, Cheney and Co., they

caviar vinaigrette, lobster vol au vent with wild mushrooms, tarra-

were manufacturing piano keys, billiard balls, dominoes, and

gon, cognac-orange cream and duck confit with quince-sundried

combs. After myriad other owners, expansion’s and rehabs, it be-

fruit chutney. For entrees, there are pan seared scallops over lob-

came an inn in 1972 and this writer enjoyed a stay in the early 90s.

ster corn risotto, goat cheese & beet ravioli with toasted basili-

The inn has elegantly appointed rooms in three spaces on the

cum sherry cream, braised short ribs with pomme puree, Brus-

property—the Main House, turn-of-the-century Carriage House,

sels sprouts, CBI smoked steak sauce and crispy onion straws,

and the recently completed Comstock House. The restaurant

branzino “Puttanesca-style”- roasted garlic-broccoli rabe, roasted

offers both a French-inspired contemporary dinner menu and a

tomato-olive tapenade and an herb sauce.

casual pub menu. A well-

Oysters are served with

stocked wine list, regional

different sauces, varying

brews,

seasonal

through the seasons. For

and

handcrafted

cocktails

meat lovers, an Iberian

comprise the adult bev-

Antipasto features Ser-

erage offerings. The inn

rano

also hosts live entertain-

cheese and artichokes

ment Friday and Saturday

and Painted Hills strip

nights in the Tap Room

steak with a spiky aru-

and offers a raw bar on

gula and fried shoestring

these nights.

potato salad—a happy

Carlos Cassar, head

ham,

Manchego

twist on the French clas-

chef at Copper Beech

sic steak frites/salad.

Inn, spent 10 years as

The demographics of

executive chef at Boom

the inn’s guests are pri-

restaurant in nearby Ston-

marily traveling couples,

ington, followed by a stint

day-trippers, locals and

at Fresh Salt—the highly

leaf-peepers. They have

acclaimed spa-based restaurant at Saybrook Point Inn [covered

been voted Diners’ Choice Winner by Open Table TWICE now

in a previous issue of Foodies]. He has also competed in the Iron

for Most Romantic destination. Among their recent awards and

Chef Elm City competition in New Haven. Among the techniques

accolades include “The Best Country Inn” for 2012* USA Today/

Chef Carlos uses are those gleaned from workshops he attended

Zagat “America’s Top 100 Hotel Restaurants”, AAA Four-Diamond

at the famed El Bulli restaurant outside Barcelona, considered in

Restaurant, Wine Spectator 2012 “Best of Award of Excellence”,

its day to be the finest eating establishment on the planet. “There

Pip’s 2012 and “Most Romantic Restaurant”*

is a lot of preserving and pickling we do, which helps expand

If the extensive amenities of the inn are not satisfying enough

the seasonal offerings,” says Chef Carlos. The seafood-centered

and one wants to explore the area, fear not! A diverse assortment

menu is high on quality and freshness with emphasis placed on

of nearby excursions include the Essex Steam Train, Goodspeed

small plates.

Opera House, Ivoryton Playhouse, Connecticut River Museum,

Chef Carlos is an active supporter in the Connecticut Farm to

the recently restored Gillette Castle, Hammonasset State Park

Chef Program and takes full advantage of local organic products

Beach plus ample antique and shopping centers in Old Lyme and

when available. “It used to be harder and more difficult. We are in

Essex. Truly a worthy road-trip destination.

our fourth year of participating, and the supply chain keeps get-

* Connecticut Magazine

ting better year by year,” he says. “It’s hard to keep up with the volume we serve using local ingredients, but it is improving. Very encouraging!” A few of our local sources include Starlight Gardens, Durham; Maple Leaf Lane, Ledyard; and Dough on Main and Fabled Foods, both in Deep River. When pressed for actual seafood sources,

32

Foodies of New England

The Copper Beech Inn 46 Main Street Ivoryton, CT 06442 860.767.0330 www.copperbeechinn.com


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