Andrew is a keen photographer and was up with the sun to capture early morning on Ibo. I lazed in bed and enjoyed my wake up coffee, which is grown and roasted on the island, delivered to the patio outside our room as I watched a Burchard’s Coucal hunting geckos among the bougainvillea. Afterwards we strolled down to the lodge’s rubber duck that was waiting to carry us across the waves to our breakfast destination, a sand island that appears only at low tide. A meal on this sandbank is one of the highlights of a visit to Ibo Island. A beautifully laid table under a Bedouin tent had been set up and after a quick swim, we sat down to a delicious breakfast. We collected shells to decorate the table and this became a premeal ritual for the rest of the trip. Then we set off on our voyage of discovery, paddling along the coast in two-man sit on top sea kayaks. Our first paddle entailed a couple of hours crossing to the mainland. The wind was behind us, the sun warm and we all got burnt! Harris and Debbie, a travel writer who had also been invited on the trip, spotted a massive sting ray and we were also privileged
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to see a large group of crab plovers wheeling over us as we pulled into our camp around lunch time. Camp was situated at the mouth of a river, with its banks cloaked in lush mangrove forest. Harris was ably assisted by two marineros (boat men) who were in charge of the dhow, a chef and our eversmiling waiter, Pemba. They unloaded all of the gear and quickly set up camp; walk-in canvas dome tents equipped with stretchers, mattresses and sheets, a hot water bucket shower and a spacious gazebo for the dinner table. We relaxed for the afternoon and then went exploring the neighbouring village before sunset. The people were friendly and happy to be photographed, examining the results with amazement. Sadly, there was evidence of large scale harvesting of cowrie shells. Huge bags filled to the brim were waiting to be picked up by traders. Think about this the next time you consider buying that pair of sandals or ornament decorated with cowries!