Time to Embrace Our Natural Hair

BY DR IKUNNA ONWUANIBE

Ablack woman’s hair is a core part of her identity. Good hair helps her to exude confidence. Therefore, losing hair can have a devastating effect on a black woman’s well-being. Hair loss is associated with stigmatisation and lack of confidence.

Hair loss is common in black women. About half of black women experience some form of hair loss in their lifetime. Many women are embarrassed and fail to seek help to address hair loss. Many will wait several years to seek help, and the damage may be permanent when they do.

Why is Afro-textured hair different?

Afro-textured hair is one of the most delicate forms of curly hair, therefore, more susceptible to thinning and breakage.

Afro-textured hair is also drier because the kinks, coils and curls make it difficult for natural sebum created by our scalp to run down the entire shaft of the hair. Additionally, compared to European hair, which, on average, has approximately 227 hairs per square centimetre, the average density of afro-textured hair is about 190 hairs per square centimetre; hence, we have lower hair density.

Moreover, we are well aware that Haircare brands significantly underserve Afro-textured hair. For a long time, Hair products targeted to black women often included toxic chemicals like parabens, sulphates, mineral oil and silicon, and these chemicals not only wreak havoc on your hair. All these factors contribute to the fragility of black hair and the tendency to thin and break, so it can be a struggle to get a black woman’s hair to grow past a certain length.

What causes hair loss?

There are many causes of hair loss in black women. Multiple factors could account for hair loss in one person.

Hair loss can also be a result of stress and poor diet. Chronic stress has been linked to hair loss as significant stress pushes large numbers of hair follicles into a resting phase. Within a few months, affected hairs might fall out suddenly when simply combing or washing your hair. Poor health, like anaemia, low vitamin D and thyroid disease, and lupus, significantly contribute to hair loss. Oestrogen keeps the hair in the growth phase for longer; therefore, some women experience hair loss after childbirth due to drops in oestrogen levels and around menopause when women stop producing oestrogen.

Hair loss can also be genetic, as seen in conditions like alopecia areata and female pattern hair loss. Alopecia areata starts with circular bald patches on the scalp and it is primarily an autoimmune disorder where the immune system attacks hair follicles. It can also occur in any part of the body, and severe cases lead to hair loss on the entire body. Conversely, female pattern hair loss is the most common in women due to irregular hormones, ageing and genetics. Unlike its counterpart, male-pattern baldness, female-pattern baldness is an overall thinning while retaining the normal hairline. There is not much to do to prevent genetic hair loss, but it can be limited with treatment.

A more common cause of hair loss in black women is Traction Alopecia. This happens when there is damage to the scalp from recurrent pulling and rubbing of hair, leading to inflammation around the hair follicles. This is usually seen in women wearing tight weaves, braids, hair extensions and specific wigs. These hairstyles practices pull at the hair root, which leads to hair loss and thinning. Traction alopecia usually causes recession of the front hairline and the margins of your scalp, where the most pulling is exerted during hairstyling. Traction alopecia can be reversible if caught early and attributed hairstyle practices stopped. However, it is important to note that prolonged constant hair pulling can cause irreversible damage to the hair roots and follicles. The best solution to control traction alopecia is to stop hair styling practices that pull tightly and cause pain.

A unique form of hair loss is central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA). CCCA is a form of scarring alopecia that clinically presents as patches of permanent hair loss on the crown of the scalp and spreads. CCCA affects mainly women of African descent and may occur in families; however, it has also been linked to excessive heat use with hot combs, straighteners, and chemical agents to relax and colour hair. Hair loss usually starts slowly and progresses with time. Some women may have symptoms of burning, itchy and sensitive scalps due to CCCA. The best treatment is limiting these hair styling practices; consider a chemical-free hair maintenance routine.

What can black women do to stop hair loss?

For many middle-aged women, the ship has sailed, and these hair styling techniques were fashionable in their formative years. They are now experiencing hair loss from these styling techniques. Black women, especially those that experience hair loss, should be encouraged to consider natural hairstyles. Luckily, more women are embracing their Afro-textured hair. The younger generation should be encourage to take up the natural look hairstyles.

Preventing hair loss and promoting hair growth involves multiple measures; this includes lifestyle measures such as styling practices like wearing your hair in a style that requires little manipulation or in protective styles; seeking medical treatment at the onset of hair loss. We are what we eat, and healthy hair needs good nutrition, so a balanced diet containing Omega 3 fatty acids, iron, vitamins B and C and selenium is essential. Most of these nutrients can be food in fresh fruits and vegetables. However, it is crucial for women experiencing hair loss to take supplements to boost the level of these nutrients. Stress is a part of daily living, so women need to develop strategies to manage their stress.

Bottom Line

Hair loss can be preventable. Multiple factors, from lifestyle measures to styling practices, are necessary to prevent hair loss. Avoid hairstyle methods that lead to hair loss. It is essential to seek help early when you notice hair thinning or loss to avoid permanent loss.

Dr Ikunna Onwuanibe Family Physician at Dennis Ashley Medical Clinic

Landmark Towers, Oniru, VI, Lagos @ikupopsicles

Ikunna has over 25 years’ experience in family medicine and holds a master's degree in public health from the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine. Her main interests are in women’s health and preventing longterm illnesses. Dennis Ashley Medical Clinic offers family physician and endoscopy services.