TRAVEL DIARY – ONCE UPON A TIME IN CHINA
So we left off last time in Hanoi City, Vietnam, heading to Halong Bay. What can I say? Halong Bay would have to be a wonder of this world, it is absolutely beautiful. A huge archipelago of islands, thousands and thousands of limestone islands reach high out of the jadegreen waters. Some of the islands are inhabited, but most not; many of the local population live in floating houses, making a living from fishing and selling snacks from rowboats to tourists. It was a three-day tour of blissful seafood-eating, kayaking, diving off the boat and cycling around islands – what a life, hey? After the tour it was back to Hanoi, and after saying goodbye to Jana, Eric and I were ready to set off on the next leg of our trip, into China to fly out of Hong Kong to Europe. Well, this was an experience ... it sounds simple enough – catch a train to the border then, after customs, a taxi to the local train station in Pxingang, China, then one change onto a sleeper train in Nanning, and on to Hong Kong … wrong! China is the most difficult country I have ever travelled in, and I have travelled a lot in my lifetime. God help the poor middle-aged arrogant traveler (who thinks the whole world speaks English) going to the Olympics! There we were, trying our best to speak to everyone in Chinese, phrase book in hand – all we wanted was an ATM, then a train ticket. No way – no-one would even talk to us. When we approached anyone, we were being waved away with a hand signal. So, we missed the train. Finally we found someone who was willing to help us. He kindly got us in a tuk-tuk, and to an ATM, and then to a bus station – which was all on the other side of town, so without this man, we would have gotten nowhere. So, with money and a bus ticket – although three times the price of the train ticket – we were happy. On the bus we met another lovely soul who this time spoke English – we soon realised that the only way to get around China was to find these lovely people. It was an interesting bus ride. The bus was stopped for what we thought would be a passport and papers check, but as five policemen got on the bus, one with video camera in hand, they all went straight to one man aboard. As they all searched and questioned the man, the story unfolded. A huge block of heroin was found on him, and after ten minutes that man and two others were escorted off the bus. Our friend then told us that if you are caught with over fifty grams of heroin, the punishment was death by shooting ... When we arrived in Nanning, our friend helped us find the local bus to get to the train station. When we arrived, plan B failed; the trains to Hong Kong were full for days ... so, after a lot of thought and procrastination, it was back to the bus station on another bus. Beautiful soul number three; we meet a lovely man on the bus who is Chinese but has lived in England for over twenty years. He and his two brothers, who are all in China on holidays (one brother is from Germany, and the other from the north of China), are heading to the bus station to catch a night bus to Hong Kong. When we arrive, he helps us to get a ticket on his bus. Then we all have dinner – they are like our grandfathers/minders (hilarious!). So, as this tale continues, we find it difficult again to get a bus from the Hong Kong border into the city. (For those who aren’t aware, Hong Kong is a separate entity with separate border control from the mainland – it is from the ex-English ruling of Hong Kong). But, finally we make it, with the help of yet another person. We find a place to stay, but when you come from cheap Vietnam and end up in a crummy place that is five times the price in Hong Kong, it kind of sucks! So, Hong Kong – it is a great city. However, for our cheap backpacking trip, it is not what we want, nor need. So we wait for our flight and jet to Rome. Enter Europe; it is way too expensive, but oh so beautiful. I have been to Rome before, nine years ago, and it is one of my favourite cities. We enjoy the beauty of the historic sights, eat, drink, eat and drink some more – oh, I love to eat and drink. After a few days of spending way too much in Rome, it is off to Spain, where we will be based for the summer ... tale to be continued … ANNA WALLACE
SAUCE #72
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