exploitation of workers. The effects of producing cotton are also felt on smaller nations, like in Tanzania. Cotton farming provides employment to over 40% of the population, contributes with 15% to 20% of the country’s GNP and is the second largest source of foreign exchange. Countries like these only harvest raw cotton without investing in techniques or machinery to make the final product. In contrast, they import cotton-based garments and materials at much higher prices, contributing to perpetuate inequality. Even in the USA, where cotton is 100% mechanically harvested, there are problems with subsidies and irregularities concerning international trade. By reducing labour on its cotton crops in detriment of machinery and offering fairer working conditions, cotton growers have to rely on government subsidies to keep prices internationally competitive. This sort of practise is prohibited by the World Trade Organisation but remains in place in the US. Cotton production is far from ‘clean’, as some marketers try to make us believe. There are countless stories about exploitation in yarn mills across India, unlawful discharge of chemicals and bleach in water basins during the production of fabrics and – as most of us know through TV programmes – scandals involving child labour to make £1 sequin tops for major high-street retailers. All of this to get your natural, breathable and comfortable item of clothing. On the end-consumer side, the impending question is: how clothes can be produced in ethical, sustainable
ways when prices charged in most high street shops should be the value paid for a day’s work in the fields? Despite the recent economic slowdown, local shopping centres get further swamped with stores offering goods “inspired” by catwalk looks for a small fraction of their price tag. Customers keep flooding in, lured by the promise of a ‘stylish self’ on the cheap. The lower end of the fashion industry has always sold products on the basis of a short lifespan and that garments would be discarded in favour of new ones as frequently as possible. Within this model there is no room for concerns about the sustainability of the supply chain, the environment, and recycling. The end result is a conundrum. Do we keep a massive share of Western retail solely based on conspicuous consumption which, in turn, employs thousands of people? Should we ban trade from countries such as Uzbekistan without giving farmers alternative means of subsistence? Should we stop using cotton and look for more sustainable and ethical fibres? Unfortunately, there is no easy solution for a problem involving so many people. The cold hard truth is that we are way too many to not have an impact on the environment or on work conditions; all this has a hidden cost that not seen on the price tag. We should strive to assure fair wages and decent living standards for everyone in the world but we have to accept that, as a consequence, we cannot expect to buy 50 pence tops in our high streets. Text - Carol Aquino Image - EJFoundation #Collage 39