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BUSINESS • POLITICS • TRAVEL • ENTERTAINMENT • SPORTS • CONGRESS • MILITARY & DEFENSE
H.E. SIR RONALD SANDERS AMBASSADOR of ANTIGUA and BARBUDA to the UNITED STATES
H.E. PHAM QUANG VINH AMBASSADOR of VIETNAM to the UNITED STATES
BULGARIAN CONSUL GENERAL VESSELIN VALCHEV in LOS ANGELES and his wife, DIANA, with the MAYOR of LOS ANGELES ERIC GARCETTI
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Cover photo credits: Cruising the Danube River, Monica and John Frim, Diplomatic Connections; Bulgarian President Rumen Radev, Vatican Pool/ Getty Images; Neymar, UN Photo/Elma Okic; Bulgarian Consul General Vesselin Valchev, Republic of Bulgaria, Consulate General in Los Angeles; H.E. Sir Ronald Sanders, Ambassador of Antigua and Barbuda to the United States, Embassy of Antigua and Barbuda; H.E. Pham Quang Vinh, Ambassador of Vietnam to the United States, Christophe Avril, Diplomatic Connections
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INTERVIEW
OF AMBASSADOR PHAM QUANG VINH BY MICHAEL MOSETTIG
H.E. Pham Quang Vinh, Ambassador of Vietnam to the United States, in his office at the Embassy of Vietnam in Washington, D.C. 10
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t’s been 42 years since the last American helicopters lifted off from Saigon’s rooftops, leaving behind a war that killed 58,000 U.S. military and as many as two million Vietnamese military and civilians. Twenty years later, the U.S. established diplomatic relations with the government in Hanoi. And only a year ago, thousands of Vietnamese enthusiastically greeted the motorcade of then President Barack Obama on the streets of the former Saigon, now, Ho Chi Minh City. In the years since, what the Vietnamese call The American War, which followed nearly a century of French colonial rule and Japanese occupation, the 92 million citizens have fiercely worked to assert their independence and build a modern economy. Vietnam's six percent economic growth rate is among the fastest in Asia. Its cities are full of building projects, shopping malls, and in Ho Chi Minh City, a subway system is under construction. But the landscape of Southeast Asia remains full of tension, especially in the competing claims of Vietnam, the Philippines, Indonesia and China, over the waters and small islands of the South China Sea. Some of that development and growing prosperity will be on display in the first week of November when officials and leaders from 23 countries and territories gather in Vietnam for the annual meeting of the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) group. Diplomatic Connections met with Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh for an exclusive interview. The career diplomat has represented his country in Washington, D.C. since 2014.
a time of many changes, we try and share our goal with the representatives who are most engaged on how to reinvigorate the momentum for regional integration and economic development beneficial to all participants. The theme we focus on is how to nurture the dynamic advancement of the region concentrating on inclusiveness, regional integration, and benefits of prosperity for all. We have been working towards these unified goals with all of our colleagues from the beginning of this year. It is our hope that President Trump will be attending the summit, as we understand that it's been confirmed. Strategies and anticipated engagements within the region are expected to be announced during this time.
Diplomatic Connections: Excellency, thank you for joining Diplomatic Connections for this interview.
Diplomatic Connections: Now your president has cited the official goal as creating a new dynamism and fostering a shared future. To the fellow who is simply selling motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh City, what does that mean?
Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: Thank you very much. Diplomatic Connections: In early November, for the second time in a decade, your country is going to host the annual meeting of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation group. What are the host country’s goals for this meeting? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: First, thank you very much for coming to the embassy. APEC is very important to the region and to every participating member. It’s now
Diplomatic Connections: Did you say you have confirmation, or are you awaiting confirmation? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: If you remember earlier this year when Vice President Pence was in Indonesia, he announced the decision and intention of the president to go to both Vietnam as well as the surrounding region while at the APEC summit. Additionally, we have been in contact with the administration and believe it will happen. [At the time of this interview September 20, 2017; on September 29, the White House announced President Donald J. Trump and First Lady Melania Trump will travel to Japan, South Korea, China, Vietnam, the Philippines, and Hawaii from November 3-14, 2017. The President will participate in a series of bilateral, multilateral, and cultural engagements— including the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation summit).
Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: It would mean more opportunities for small and medium sized businesses in the region. APEC will create a favorable environment for networking the SMEs and businesses, also including and promoting start-ups. Young people are very much in love of that idea. Certainly, more foreign investment will go to
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Diplomatic Connections: Talking about trade, when this meeting was originally planned, it was with the expectation that twelve Pacific nations would be moving to complete the Trans-Pacific Partnership. The United States, led by the Trump administration, has now withdrawn from that. How much of this is a setback particularly for Vietnam’s economic development plans? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: We will see this from a number of elements: To begin, I'd like to say that we have been working so hard to achieve the TPP triumph. So, it is time where we need something to reengage U.S. entry and economic activities with the Asia-Pacific, and I think the administration is now thinking of how best to do it. We'd like to combine its national interests together with regional trade economic activities. Vietnam supports sustainable engagement by the U.S., strategically and economically, in the region. Vietnam will continue both ways: our national reform to attract more businesses and also our investment from other countries including the U.S. We have, myself included, made collective efforts towards this and have been working very hard. We've joined the business community in the U.S. discussing how we can collaborate together. I think a number of positive elements continue to be considered by the business community; for example, the
business environment related to IT, agriculture, and other industries. As well, there are other regional efforts related to trade and economic integration, and we continue to give this attention. Therefore, up for consideration here is every possible avenue for enhancing the environment of business and economic integration and its continuation. We need to have the U.S. in that regional effort with us. Diplomatic Connections: You said the United States and this administration are developing plans for economic reengagement with Asia. Have you seen any specific plans yet? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: We have seen when they are working with other countries as well as Vietnam; we can sustain and promote the momentum of trade relations bilaterally, and they have been committed to going to regional forums including APEC. This will be an issue at least on that topic. Thus, engaging the U.S. economically and strategically on bilateral and multilateral places will be imperative. And I see the aspiration for the new administration on this front also.
Hoang Dinh Nam/AFP/Getty Images
Vietnam and other partners as a result. And so, regular people will see the benefits of trade and interaction, not just at the macro level, but rather, in day-to-day business.
Diplomatic Connections: Now there’s some discussion, particularly from Japan, about moving ahead on TPP-11 without the United States. Is your government enthusiastic about this idea? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: The engagement of the U.S. with regional Asia-Pacific will be very important. Now the U.S. has been withdrawing from the TPP. How
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Kham/AFP/Getty Images
Trade ministers attend a press conference during the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Ministers Responsible for Trade (APEC MRT 23) meeting in Hanoi, Vietnam on May 21, 2017.
Halong Bay, Hanoi, Vietnam
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Kham/AFP/Getty Images
we continue to engage the U.S. will be significant. I think many countries in the region maintain talks with the U.S. to enhance their cooperation within the region. At the same time, the results of the TPP, through nearly 10 years of negotiations and hard work, can serve as a template for future trade agreements including bilateral or regional. This is important to sustain and to progressively see good developments from the TPP. The TPP-11 is a way to keep the TPP alive. It is one avenue, but to simultaneously reengage the U.S. bilaterally and regionally is crucial. Diplomatic Connections: . . . because your country had the most to gain in terms of trade from the TPP? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: People can think of gains with pro and cons. In order to make achievements as well as be competitive with other TPP participants, we have made great commitments out of difficulties and hardship. Much of which we hope to accomplish must be carried out through reforms. Therefore, in order to gain, we must sacrifice as well, so I think that of TPP in one way; while on the other hand, it is balanced and beneficial to all.
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Diplomatic Connections: You talked about the dynamic changes that are going on in Asia, there are also political on the security front. Do you think that discussions of APEC can lead to any easing of the territorial disputes that are going on in the South China Sea? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: I think the issue of the South China Sea, or what Vietnam calls the Eastern Sea, is one of the concerns related to both economic and security matters in the Asian-Pacific area. It has been discussed in many regional forums including in ASEAN. How people approach this topic, within the context of an economic forum, will be for the participants to decide. But, I think the region needs to be stable and secure so that economic activities can boom. Also, the South China Sea is a sea-lane that relates to important commercial activities; thus, security and stability will be paramount. And here we need to emphasize the rule of law as well. Diplomatic Connections: How would you characterize relations at this moment between your country and China particularly over the issue of who has the rights to exploit mineral development in the Spratly Islands?
Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: We have a longstanding tradition of a good relationship with China. Our trade relations have been developing very fast. China is a big country and a source of cooperation not only for Vietnam, but also for other nations as well. Therefore, the policy of Vietnam is to deepen the good relationship with China already upheld. On the issue of the Eastern Sea or the South China Sea, we have differences related to these subjects. We have been in communication with the Chinese side, and there has been a common understanding shared by the leadership of the two countries on how to cultivate calm in the South China Sea situation, settle the differences and disputes, and also place ourselves under rule of law and international law including UNCLOS. (United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, which the U.S. has not ratified.) Concurrently, we think that maritime security, including freedom of navigation, is essential, not only for claimant states, but also for all nations in the region and in the world. Thus, we need to work together bilaterally, and in the regional forums and frameworks to ensure that this is a sea of peace and security. We intend to do
Patrick van Katwijk/Getty Images
President Tran Dai Quang of Vietnam
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Embassy of Vietnam
Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc of Vietnam meets U.S. President Donald J. Trump in the Oval Office of the White House, on May 31, 2017.
everything we can do to preserve peace, maritime security, and freedom of navigation at sea while also ensuring that differences and disputes can be by peaceful means in accordance with international law including UNCLOS. Diplomatic Connections: Because your General Secretary called for unity among the nations of the Southeast, Association of the Southeast Asian Nations, ASEAN, are you getting the kind of immunity you want out of ASEAN on this issue? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: This year is very unique. It’s the 50th anniversary of the founding of ASEAN. If you research the history of ASEAN, you will see the evolution of it to the present time and discover that it's one of the most successful regional organizations today. Indeed, unity and consensus play a very important role in the process of progress within ASEAN. But it’s also a fact that within ASEAN, sensitive and/or difficult issues arise, and there certainly can be different views. Thus, consensus on issues of unity also means that we tackle the differences so that we can move forward successfully. In this context, engaging in dialogue in ASEAN about the differences and reaching agreement later is also part of the consensus process. I 16
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used to serve as Vietnam’s ASEAN representative, and I’ve been doing much of this. So, creating an environment where countries can align their priorities and national positions, in hopes of developing a regional position, is very important. It’s not simply having consensus, but also truly staying engaged in a building consensus; this is critical. Therefore, ASEAN is good, and I think it will continue to develop. Diplomatic Connections: Are you satisfied with the response of the United States and the Trump administration to developments in the East Sea, South China Sea? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: I believe so, it has been reaffirmed by the different administrations, including the new administration, that they consider maritime security and freedom of navigation in the South China or Eastern Sea, critical not only to the interests of the U.S. but for other countries as well. Also, respect of international law, the rule of law, including UNCLOS, will be very important. Thus, we share this one and countries need to work together and refrain from creating further tension in the region; this is fundamental. I think that all the key
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principles and elements have been reaffirmed by the new administration, and it is shared not only by Vietnam, but also by countries of the region including ASEAN countries.
standards in areas like the economy and in trade-relations, including also on labor. We continue to work to for the best benefit of our workers.
Diplomatic Connections: Now, you talked earlier about your country making considerable domestic reforms, particularly in connection with TPP. Are you going ahead even without an American TPP with the legislation setting up independent trade unions?
Diplomatic Connections: Now some of the international nongovernmental organizations, the NGOs, have complained that without the United States involved in TPP, there’s less American pressure on your government to deal with certain domestic political and human rights issues. There’s been an increase in arrests of bloggers and other dissidents. What is your response to that?
Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: The reform in Vietnam is not only because of the TPP; it’s from the heart of our development and national building. Vietnam will continue its national package reform including in the economic, social and political areas. For example, the National Assembly of Vietnam has been on many occasions reviewing laws to further promote and ensure the rights and welfare of the citizens and the people. Apart from the TPP, we have many others, what we refer to as, new generation FTAs including our FTA with the EU or the Republic of Korea. Like the TPP, those FTAs require high
Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: We may have differences in the political and social systems and in our perception of how democracy and freedom will be, but with or without the TPP, we continue our reforms to the best benefit and welfare of our citizens and people. Even before the TPP, we already had a bilateral dialogue on human rights with the U.S. and several other countries like the EU or Australia. That dialogue will be continued, we may have differences, but we can talk and have dialogue with each other.
Mohd Rasfan/AFP/Getty Images
Australia's Foreign Minister Julie Bishop (6th L) links arms with ASEAN ministers during the ASEAN-Australia ministerial meeting, part of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) regional security forum in Manila on August 6, 2017. The annual forum, hosted by the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), brings together the top diplomats from 26 countries and the European Union for talks on political and security issues in Asia-Pacific.
Diplomatic Connections: At this particular moment we are doing this interview, perhaps more Americans than usual are paying more attention to your country because of the PBS documentary series on, what we call the Vietnam War, and what you call the American War. There was some discussion that these documentaries would be translated into Vietnamese and live-streamed into Vietnam. Do you see that happening? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: Episode one is just starting, so we need to wait a little bit to see the whole story created by the film. The Vietnam War or the American War, as we
and working hard together to transform ourselves from former foes to friends. It’s a remarkable process of progress whereas we can work together and have now become comprehensive partners. And I want to recall Vietnam’s policies of “set aside the past and work on the future” ad we worked together for the normalization of the relationship . At the same time, our two countries have been cooperating very closely on the war legacy issues, including the MIAs, as one example, or the U.S. has been helping us in efforts for demining, UXOs and Agent Orange. Let’s see the full story.
call it, has a long history, and there are many ways of thinking about it. But one Diplomatic Connections: thing we must say to you is Because this question Vietnamese Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh and Diplomatic Connections that from our perspective, it we’ve seen here, despite the Correspondent, Michael Mosettig intention and best hopes of is a war that was waged upon the filmmakers, it has not brought reconciliation to the United us, and we have to stand up to that. Also, important, States. If anything, it has created more argument in the United is after the war, we have a process of reconciliation
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Frederick M. Brown/Getty Images
Vietnamese Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh and Diplomatic Connections Correspondent, Michael Mosettig meeting inside the Embassy of Vietnam in Washington, D.C., September 20, 2017.
States about our war. You were a child during the war, and your family had to flee the bombing of Hanoi, during some of the most intense bombing. How has that experience, that you shared with your generation, how has that affected your perspective of your country’s future and how it deals with the world? Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh: At the time of the war, I was in the northern part of the country—the most frequent experience in my memory was the bombing and the jets roaring in the sky. As a kid, 7-10 years old, it was really a shock to a young child. We had to evacuate from Hanoi with my parents to provinces up north about 150 kilometers away, and every time we went to school, and heard a siren warning us that airplanes would be coming and bombs might be dropped, we had to go into the shelter, it was really a difficult experience. I came back to Hanoi during the end of 1960s when there was a temporary ceasing of the bombing. We had to be evacuated again before 1972 when they bombed Hanoi. It was a few days before, maybe a week or so, prior to the signing of the Paris Agreement. It’s a real experience. But at the same time, I will share with you my personal experience: My first trip abroad, as a Vietnamese young diplomat, was back in 1983 when I was with the delegation going to the UN General Assembly in New York. My first assignment abroad was in New York as well. Thus, I saw not only the war, during the fiercest of times, but also people after the war. Ordinary people have a good heart for people of other countries, and then when they know 20
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Vietnam, they love Vietnam. Furthermore, I witnessed, or saw some experiences, much like the Vietnam Vets, where people were bridging the gap between the two nations, pioneering in normalization. And many veterans have gone back to Vietnam to meet their former enemies; they shake hands. I think when things changed and when the war was ended, then it’s a time of great courage for the citizens of both our nations, working together for normalization and reconciliation. So, it’s real experience. Diplomatic Connections: Excellency, thank for joining this interview with Diplomatic Connections.
Vietnamese Ambassador Pham Quang Vinh speaks during the Vietnam War Summit at the LBJ Presidential Library in Austin on April 28, 2016.
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At the time of the war, I was in the northern part of the country— the most frequent experience in my memory was the bombing and the jets roaring in the sky. As a kid, 7-10 years old, it was really a shock to a young child. We had to evacuate from Hanoi with my parents to provinces up north about 150 kilometers away. . . D I P L O M AT I C C O N N E C T I O N S B U S I N E S S E D I T I O N | N O V E M B E R – D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 7
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VESSELIN VALCHEV CONSUL GENERAL CONSULATE GENERAL OF THE REPUBLIC OF BULGARIA IN LOS ANGELES
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LALA LAND
A Bulgarian in
Vesselin Valchev is Consul-General of All He Surveys from California to Alaska By ROLAND FLAMINI
A
part from
the European Union.
New York,
Furthermore, in 2009,
Los Angeles
he was Bulgaria’s
has more foreign
ambassador to Cyprus.
consulates-general
Returning home,
than any other U.S.
he was appointed
city—sixty-four in
Secretary General of
total—not counting
Bulgarian Consul General Valchev and his wife, Diana, with Los Angeles Mayor Eric Garcetti
the Bulgarian Ministry
honorary consuls. Many have jurisdiction
of Foreign Affairs, a top diplomatic job. Prior to
up and down the West Coast. The Bulgarian
his Los Angeles posting, he was ambassador-at-
consulate-general’s reach is vast: its area of
large for Antarctica, to which he organized the
coverage stretches to both Hawaii and Alaska.
first Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting in the
The consul-general is Vesselin Valchev, a
Bulgarian capital of Sofia, in 2015.
Bulgarian diplomat with a distinguished career.
As Valchev explains in an interview with
His training includes time at the prestigious
Diplomatic Connections, the Consultative Meeting
Paris School of Administration (ENA), Harvard
is the primary forum for solving problems
University’s John F. Kennedy School of
and making collective decisions in accordance
Government and the Berlin School of Economics.
with the Antarctic Treaty; it was attended by
His earlier postings included Moscow, Prague,
representatives from over 50 countries. The
and Kosovo. He has held senior government
primary role of a consulate is to service its
posts and experienced first hand the collapse
citizens, but Valchev also focuses on building
of the Soviet empire. Along with other career
bi-lateral cooperation and trade, and on helping
diplomats and politicians, he was involved in
a number of schools in the area where the
Bulgaria’s transition to democracy, including the
Bulgarian language and culture are taught.
process of becoming a member of NATO and
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Xinhua/Wang Ye via Getty Images
The leaders of the national delegations participating at the 38th Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting in Sofia, Bulgaria.
Diplomatic Connections: How does this assignment in Los Angeles fit into your long and varied career?
Angeles, Seattle, San Francisco and Las Vegas; we organize consular days in those cities.
Consul-General Valchev: In 38 years of serving my country, I’ve experienced some of the great changes in the world, including my nation joining NATO and the European Union. I’ve experienced the winds of change in countries that no longer exist like Czechoslovakia [which in 1993 split into two nations: the Czech Republic and Slovakia] and the Soviet Union. I’ve been a [government] minister, adviser to the president, chief of staff of the deputy prime minister and minister of foreign affairs. I’ve been ambassador and so on. Now, for the first time, I’m a consul-general and in Los Angeles. This means I am responsible for 11 U.S. states with a territory 1.7 million square miles. It’s both a challenge and a privilege, which is why I’ve taken this post.
Diplomatic Connections: So how much of your territory have you actually visited?
Diplomatic Connections: As consul general, what is your number one concern? Consul-General Valchev: My two main priorities in this assignment are to further develop bi-lateral relations between Bulgaria and the United States – political, economic, cultural, social, etc. My other priority is to serve and protect citizens in the Bulgarian community in my area. Diplomatic Connections: How many Bulgarian citizens are we talking about in your area? Consul-General Valchev: We don’t have exact data because there’s no obligation for Bulgarians to report or to register with the diplomatic missions in the United States, but we estimate that in these 11 states there are about 100,000 Bulgarian citizens. The biggest communities are in Los 26
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Consul-General Valchev: Bearing in mind that I have been in the post for two years, I have been to Seattle, Las Vegas, San Diego, Irvine and Sacramento. Diplomatic Connections: So far, not to Alaska or to Hawaii? Consul-General Valchev: We visit locations where there are cases that need attention, or we have a request from citizens where they need consular assistance. From the areas that you mentioned, we haven’t had any. Besides, the numbers of Bulgarians in these areas are very few. Diplomatic Connections: I was thinking more of Alaska because of your role in the Antarctic negotiations. Consul-General Valchev: I was ambassador-at-large for the Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting which was held in Bulgaria in 2015. The main purpose of the treaty is to ensure that “it is in the interest of all mankind that the Antarctic will continue forever to be used exclusively for peaceful purposes and shall not become a scene or object of international discord.” The Antarctic Treaty has been signed since 1959 by 41 countries, 17 of them are countries doing research in the Antarctic territory and another 24 countries attending the meetings, don’t participate in the decision making. The Consultative Meeting, I would say, is like the government of Antarctica. All those countries who are involved in research in the area get together and reach
consensus on all the issues. In the consultative meeting, countries like the United States, Russia, Germany, as well as smaller countries, such as Bulgaria, gather and solve all the issues by consensus. This is an example how the world should function. Bulgaria is a full member since September 11, 1978. Since then, we have a base, called Livingstone, where a group of scientists conduct research. Diplomatic Connections: Is Bulgaria the permanent location of the Antarctic Consultative Meeting, and did you head it? Consul-General Valchev: No, this was an assignment as ambassador-at-large when Bulgaria hosted the Antarctic Consultative Meeting. I headed the national secretariat, prepared the meeting, but the hosting then moved on to the next country in alphabetical order.
Bruno Vigneron/Getty Images
Diplomatic Connections: Has Bulgaria been admitted to the U.S. Visa Waver program? Consul-General Valchev: This is a sensitive question for Bulgarians, and it goes in contrast to the perfect – I would say excellent Consul General Valchev with Ted Kotcheff, – bi-lateral relations Director of the first Rambo movie, who had Bulgarian parents, although he himself was born between Bulgaria in Canada, applied and was given Bulgarian and the United citizenship and a Bulgarian passport. States, which is now a strategic partnership. But within the strategic partnership, Bulgaria is still not included in the U.S. Visa Waiver program, and we hope that soon this problem between our two countries will be
Consul-General Valchev: The trend within the last couple of years is downward, and we hope very soon to reach the level to qualify for the program. If you look at the history, there are a number of agreements signed that enhanced the visa process. I won’t list them, but from a procedural point of view, there are a number of bi-lateral agreements which make the visa process easier. Diplomatic Connections: What are the most common problems that the consulate has had to deal with? Consul-General Valchev: The most common problems are issuing Bulgarian passports and Bulgarian IDs, power of attorney, and issuing visas for third country nationals, etc. The scope of our activities is so big. All the problems for us are common, and usual, and we’re dealing with them in a professional way. Diplomatic Connections: What are the requirements for, say, a U.S. citizen obtaining a Bulgarian passport? Consul-General Valchev: The requirements are listed in the relevant laws. Every person who can show that at least one of his parents is Bulgarian is considered a Bulgarian. Last year, Ted Kotcheff, director of the first Sylvester Stallone continued to page 30
resolved.
Ernesto Ruscio/FilmMagic
Diplomatic Connections: As I understand it, one of the criteria is the percentage of refusals of visa applications by Bulgarians. Consul-General Valchev: Two main criteria: The issue of security and the percentage of rejected visas. The security issue is not a problem between Bulgaria and the United States. This has been solved positively. But the percentage of rejected visas is still above the level established by the U.S. Congress.
Sylvester Stallone
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BULGARIAN CONSUL GENERAL VESSELIN VALCHEV WITH: the
famous Bulgarian folk singer Yanka Rupkina as Ambassador in Cyprus.
children
from the Bulgarian weekend school
Hollywood
star Sharon Stone
Rear
Bulgarian
Consul General in Los Angeles Vesselin Valchev and his wife Diana
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Admiral Mario Sánchez Debernardi of Peru discussing future activities with the Force Commander of the United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus (UNFICYP).
The above photo was taken after the official procedure of the appointment of Vesselin Valchev by the President of Bulgaria Georgi Parvanov (2002 - 2012) as Ambassador to Cyprus.
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Pope Francis meets President of Bulgaria Rumen Radev and wife Desislava Radeva at the Apostolic Palace on May 26, 2017 in Vatican City, Vatican. The Bulgarian Church was instrumental in helping to save Bulgarian Jews during World War II and Pope John XXIII, then Archbishop Angelo Roncalli, was the Roman Catholic representative (apostolic delegate) in Sofia, at the time.
Rambo movie, who had Bulgarian parents, although he himself was born in Canada, applied and was given Bulgarian citizenship and a Bulgarian passport. Diplomatic Connections: Have you set yourself any personal goals you would like to accomplish during your time in Los Angeles?
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Consul-General Valchev: Besides the priorities I mentioned, the first of my personal missions is raising awareness and spreading information about the heroic effort of Bulgarians during World War II in saving Jewish lives. Bulgaria was the only [German] occupied country that saved all the Bulgarian Jews from deportation to Nazi camps: 48,000 lives were saved by the combined brave actions of the
what the Bulgarians have done; it is to be placed under an olive tree in front of the museum. My other personal mission is to develop the Bulgarian schools. There are about ten Bulgarian schools in my consular district; that is, schools where young Bulgarians learn the Bulgarian language, literature, history, and geography. That way, young Americans of Bulgarian descent will learn about the country where their parents were born. Bulgaria will have the (rotating) presidency of the European Union council in the first half of 2018. Bulgaria has prepared a large presidential agenda, and it’s another of my priorities to make people aware of it. Diplomatic Connections: To return to your first personal mission, in the early stages of World War II, Pope John XXIII, then Archbishop Angelo Roncalli, was the Roman Catholic representative (apostolic delegate) in Sofia and was also active in helping and supporting Bulgarians in saving Jews. Consul-General Valchev: The Bulgarian church played a very important role in saving Bulgarian Jews. There was a group of Jews collected in a school yard in Plovdiv, and the Bulgarian bishop jumped over the fence, and succeeded in blocking the Jews from being moved to the train station by vowing to lie down on the train tracks and blocking the train. And the speaker of the Bulgarian parliament tabled a motion to stop the deportation of Jews. There were also street demonstrations, and the collective result was that deportations from a Bulgarian territory never took place. Diplomatic Connections: How much has the Trump Administration’s tougher policy on immigration impacted your consulate? Consul-General Valchev: We don’t, up to now, feel the impact of new restrictions. Vatican Pool/Getty Images
Diplomatic Connections: Is that because there are few, if any, Bulgarian illegal immigrants? Consul-General Valchev: Or if there are, they didn’t, at any rate, come to the attention of the consulate. Diplomatic Connections: How much autonomy does the consulate have from the embassy in Washington, D.C.? Bulgarian king, the church, politicians, members of parliament, and the people. They resisted the efforts of the Germans and the Bulgarian government of the time to deport Bulgarian Jews to the concentration camps. This is one of my priorities – my burning priorities. At the moment, we are in the process of negotiating with the Los Angeles Holocaust Museum for a memorial plaque about
Consul-General Valchev: We have full autonomy while simultaneously cooperating and consulting with the embassy in Washington on a regular basis. Diplomatic Connections: What about bi-lateral trade? What is the current situation?
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Consul-General Valchev: Bi-lateral trade is a very important issue, enhanced by a number of bi-lateral agreements. But at the same time, we consider that there is room for an increase. The United States is among the first ten biggest investors in Bulgaria. Some of the most substantial investors are Johnson Controls Electronics, Hewlett Packard, Kraft Foods, Microsoft, MacDonald, IBM, NEWS CORP, and many others. The United States, for us, is a strategic partner. We are working hard so that investment and foreign trade increases within the coming years. Bulgarian exports to the United States need to be enlarged. Annual Bulgarian export and investment in California is not big-$60 to $70 million. Diplomatic Connections: Do you find yourself much involved with California political figures? Consul-General Valchev: I enjoy regular contact with politicians in my consular district. While in Sacramento, I had meetings with senate and governors offices. There are bilateral as well as multilateral meetings organized at the consular group level: the L.A. consular corps is the third largest in the world. The European Union consuls meet separately each month and have a guest speaker, usually a prominent public figure.
Diplomatic Connections: In your view, what is the state of bilateral relations? Consul-General Valchev: U.S.-Bulgarian bi-lateral relations are excellent. Diplomatic Connections: What is the single thing about living in California that you find puzzling. Consul-General Valchev: I may not sound original, but it’s the traffic. Diplomatic Connections: Do you live near the consulate? Consul-General Valchev: I’m living 200 feet from the office. This makes my life very easy because I can walk to my office. Sometimes, we have emergencies, and I can get to the office quickly and easily. Diplomatic Connections: Coming back to the ongoing commitments of your present assignment, how much consular work in Los Angeles is related to one of the area’s main industries, which is show business?
Consul-General Valchev: Living and working in L.A. one has to be involved with show business people. Each year, Bulgaria has an entry in the foreign film category of the Academy Awards. Unfortunately, we haven’t won an Oscar yet, but we’re optimists. At the same time, the European Union member countries organize an annual European Film Festival in Los Angeles, and Distinction from the Los Angeles County Board of Supervisors by Hilda L. Solis, Chair of the Board. Bulgaria also participates in that. There’s also a Festival of East European Films and Bulgaria is a participant. Diplomatic Connections: When did you last meet a movie or TV star? Consul-General Valchev: We consuls often meet celebrities; it’s our business, mainly at events and receptions. My last such meeting was with Sharon Stone. We had a very nice discussion about her ambition to make an active contribution to the struggle for world peace. Diplomatic Connections: Thank you very much, Consul General Valchev.
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“A Romantic Escape Under the Stars in the Heart of Beverly Hills”
DIPLO
H.E. SIR RONALD SANDERS AMBASSADOR OF ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA TO THE UNITED STATES AND TO THE ORGANIZATION OF AMERICAN STATES
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OMACY
IN THE EYE OF THE STORM H.E. Sir Ronald Sanders, Ambassador of Antigua and Barbuda to the United States and to the Organization of American States JAMES A. WINSHIP, PH.D.
A
century, quite probably even a decade from now, September 2017 is unlikely to be noted in the annals of diplomatic history. The month was not marked by any infamy akin to the 9/11/2001 terrorist attacks on the twin towers of the World Trade Center in New York City and the Pentagon outside of Washington, D.C. No major conflict began or ended, the opening session of the United Nations came and went marked by rhetorical fireworks but no exchange of hostile fire, and most of the year’s major news stories — investigations into alleged Russian interference in the 2016 presidential election in the United States; the fear of rising nationalism in Britain, the United States, and Europe; the continuing fight against terrorism and extremism; concern about climate change and the environment; breaches of cybersecurity — simmered but did not boil over. Yet, September 2017 marked a chain of natural disasters in the form of back-to-back historic hurricanes forming in the Atlantic, strengthening as they hit warmer waters, and making landfall in populated areas. Hurricane Irma and Hurricane Maria reached Category 5 status with winds gusting to in excess of 180-200 miles per hour, sweeping parts of the Caribbean and the southern United States to devastating effect. Puerto Rico was especially hard hit, but so too were the British Virgin Islands, the American Virgin Islands, Cuba, St. Martin, Dominica and Barbuda — a small island, part of the country of Antigua (Ahn-tee-guh) and Barbuda (Bar-byou-duh), now denuded of vegetation and virtually devoid of population in the aftermath of the storm.
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News coverage inevitably moves on from the lingering effects of disaster as more immediate events take precedence. The United States has struggled to get needed relief and resources to Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands, a difficult task in the best of circumstances, made even more difficult by the need to get emergency assistance to flood ravaged parts of Texas and Florida that are geographically and politically closer to home. The United Kingdom, France and the Netherlands are all providing rebuilding assistance to their associated territories in the Caribbean, like Antigua and Barbuda island states that confront the realities of sea level rise complicated by climate change. Inevitably, the stricken island states of the Caribbean must turn to the international community — formal international organizations like the United Nations, World Bank and Organization of American States, governments willing to offer assistance, non-governmental organizations like the Red Cross, and commercial lending markets — in order to rebuild. Not surprisingly, catastrophic natural events like Irma and Maria move diplomacy into the realm of international disaster relief and reconstruction, highlighting both the human plight of victims of the storms and the economic costs of rebuilding infrastructure and a functioning economy. Speaking for the island state of Antigua and Barbuda in Washington, D.C. is Sir Ronald Sanders, accredited as his country’s Ambassador both to the United States and to the Organization of American States. Born in Guyana and educated in the United Kingdom, Sanders speaks with the precision and sonority of the BBC-trained broadcaster he was before beginning his diplomatic career.
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He has twice served as his country’s High Commissioner to the United Kingdom as well as its representative and negotiator to the World Trade Organization. Ambassador Sanders served as a member and Rapporteur for a Commonwealth Eminent Persons group appointed by Queen Elizabeth II to explore ways to make the Commonwealth of States more relevant and effective in the 21st century, a position that led to him being nominated by several Caribbean states as their candidate for Secretary General of the Commonwealth. Though that bid was unsuccessful, Sanders was subsequently named to his double-hatted position in Washington, D.C. He has served as President of the Permanent Council of the OAS and led a special Mission to Haiti that helped to resolve a constitutional crisis in that country. Today, however, he speaks quite literally from the eye of the storm. The very center of Hurricane Irma passed directly over Barbuda denuding the island of vegetation, displacing its people, and devastating the island’s tourism based economy. Sanders points out that “Barbuda’s land mass is 62-square miles. Hurricane Irma was 364 miles wide when it spread itself across the island, overwhelming it in size, strength and ferocity. Neither Barbuda nor its inhabitants stood a ghost of a chance against so formidable and monstrous a power.” The entire population of Barbuda was evacuated to Antigua in the wake of the storm, but the physical destruction was near total. “For the first time in over 300 years,” notes Ambassador Sanders, “there was not a single living person on Barbuda. An entire civilization’s footprint was obliterated from the island. People had to leave behind all of the things that were important to them — their homes, their memories, their burial grounds — all the things that make a person part of a place and a community.” Speaking on behalf of his country before the OAS, Sanders poignantly made the larger diplomatic point. “These storms know no borders,” he observed. “They know no ideology or embargoes. So, Irma stalked through parts of Cuba before it went on to parts of the United States. They make no discrimination between small or large, poor or rich. They see no white people, or black people or any
shade of color in between. Their destruction is ruthless, heartless, and pitiless.” In the midst of a whirlwind schedule of media appearances and high-level diplomatic engagements designed to keep the devastation caused by these historic Atlantic storms in the public eye even as world events move on and the difficult long-term work of human and economic recovery begins, Ambassador Sanders was kind enough to make time to speak with us. Diplomatic Connections: Given the extent of the destruction wreaked on Barbuda and Antigua by these storms, how do you even begin the work of reconstruction? Ambassador Sanders: The point is that we have to rebuild Barbuda from scratch. We cannot, not do it. This is the homeland of Barbudans who have been there for over 300
spots in the world. Its beaches are quite unique – beautiful pink sand beaches. You stand in the water up to your neck and you can look down and see your toes. It is that clear, and the beaches are just marvelous. Robert DeNiro, the actor, wants to build a $250 million resort on Barbuda. In rebuilding, we need to be aware of the need for hotel resorts of that kind, which can make a contribution to the employment of the people of Barbuda, but also to the economy of Antigua as a whole. That is a further reason for wanting to rebuild the island. But, it is a mammoth task. At $250-$300 million, we are talking about upwards of 20% of my country’s GDP. continued to page 40
John Stillwell/PA Images via Getty Images
years, and they want to go home. One can understand that. And, rebuilding it with a $250 million bill has an economic benefit to it. Barbuda is one of the most gorgeous tourism
Historical photo from July 20, 2010: Queen Elizabeth II stands in the center of the Commonwealth Eminent persons group, (L-R) Mr. Samuel Kavuma from Uganda; Ms. Patricia Francis from Jamaica; Sir Ieremia Tabai from Kiribati; Mr. Tun Abdullah Ahmed Badawi from Mayalayia; Mr Kamalesh Sharma; Queen Elizabeth II; Senator Hugh Segal from Canada; Dr. Asma Jahangir from Pakistan; Sir Malcolm Rifkind from the UK; Sir Ronald Sanders, and the Honorable Michael Kirby from Australia at Buckingham Palace. Historical photo from July 20, 2010: Queen shakes hands with Sir Ronald Sanders of Guyana, during a meeting with the Commonwealth Eminent persons group, at Buckingham Palace.
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UN Photo/Rick Bajornas
UN Secretary-General António Guterres (second from right) and Gaston Browne (center front), Prime Minister of Antigua and Barbuda, preparing to survey the damage caused by Hurricane Irma to the island of Barbuda.
Diplomatic Connections: Your GDP is just about $1.4 billion? Ambassador Sanders: Yes, that’s right. You understand, therefore, we cannot generate that money by ourselves. Diplomatic Connections: Where do you turn to generate those funds? Ambassador Sanders: That is a good question. Our Ambassador in New York made an international appeal for assistance at the opening of the United Nations General Assembly, and that appeal will be reiterated. Unfortunately, it is difficult for our country to go to the commercial banks. Antigua is already indebted because the government has borrowed to finance the cost of rebuilding from past hurricanes. Understand that our leaders had no choice but to rebuild. If we had not rebuilt, then Antigua and Barbuda would have had no tourism; furthermore, there would be no schools, no proper housing for the citizens of our country. Indeed, one of the reasons why Antigua survived Hurricane Irma as 38
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well as it did was from lessons learned historically. Previous hurricanes resulted in rebuilding with more resilient designs and greater protected infrastructure. Similar procedures must be followed as Barbuda is rebuilt. Diplomatic Connections: Does that past borrowing experience now make it more difficult for you to rebuild once again? Ambassador Sanders: We cannot borrow on commercial terms. Concessional financing from the international financial institution like the World Bank and others is something that must be attained. But, here is the other “kicker” about this. If it wasn’t so tragic you would laugh. We are classified in Antigua as a “middle income” country. Because we are classified as a middle income country, we are not eligible for concessional financing from the world’s financial institutions. Their rules force us to go into the commercial lending markets. Diplomatic Connections: Those borrowing rules are based on the international institutions’ calculations of GDP per capita?
Ambassador Sanders: Yes, that’s right. Now here is the reality of that nonsense. What is GDP per capita? It takes the income of everybody in the country and divides it by the total population in order to generate a statistical average income. Barbuda is a small country and being a tourism island without enough domestic capital formation, we go out and try to lure foreign investors into our country. We bring in hotels and various other businesses. These foreign investors pay their senior staff high wages. The salaries are high. That fact serves to skew the per capita income of the country. The appearance is that we have high per capita income. But the truth is, it is 10% of the population — most of them ex-patriates — who have 90% of the income. That means that 90% of the population earns 10% of the money. This per capita GDP criterion is not fair. We have made this point to the World Bank, the IMF and others for years. But, they turn a blind eye to it because their governments turn a blind eye to it. The governments don’t want to give concessional terms even in a crisis of this kind.
Diplomatic Connections: Climatologists and critics of the Caribbean island economies suggest that in the face of rising sea-levels and climate extremes, retreat from low-lying areas is a better strategy for the future than rebuilding. Would you agree? Ambassador Sanders: In some areas retreat may be advisable. Clearly, we need to build more storm resilient facilities and reinforce our infrastructure to assure its survivability. But, we are not going to abandon our countries. We are not going to wipe out our own civilizations. We intend to help them rebuild because the idea that we could contribute to the extinguishing of our own communities is anathema to us. We are not going to do it. We are going to maintain a Caribbean place on the map of the world. We are going to continue to contribute to intellectual life, to cultural life, to scientific life as we have done all these years. Diplomatic Connections: The United Nations has actually created a formal category for Small Island Developing States (SIDS). Do small island nations have a special role to play in the diplomacy of climate change? Ambassador Sanders: They do because they are the biggest sufferers. Small island countries by themselves did not
UN Photo/Rick Bajornas
Secretary-General António Guterres (center right) meets with Gaston Browne (second from left), Prime Minister of Antigua and Barbuda, along with cabinet members and officials from the National Office of Disaster Services.
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Secretary-General Antรณnio Guterres conducted a two-day visit to Antigua, Barbuda and Dominica to survey the damage and to assess what more the UN can do to help people recover from the back-to-back, category 5 hurricanes that struck the region recently.
Gemma Handy/AFP/Getty Images
UN Photo/Rick Bajornas
Mr. Guterres (right) with Gaston Browne, Prime Minister of Antigua and Barbuda, during his visit to Codrington town in Barbuda.
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have the power or the influence to make the world, especially the major powers, truly cognizant of climate change and its consequences. But Mother Nature has changed all of that. Leading nations are certainly aware of climate change now. What island states have to do in the diplomacy of this matter is to keep it alive in every single forum, in every part of the world on a continuous basis. Diplomatic Connections: You have made a very interesting argument about assistance to Antigua and Barbuda in terms of a “justice” question, characterizing the plight of Antigua and Barbuda, and other small island states, as victimization. Could you restate that argument for our readers? Ambassador Sanders: In terms of carbon emissions and pollution, the data is persuasive. The seas are hotter than they used to be. All of this is caused by the activities of human beings and their over-utilization of fossil fuels. There are roughly 200 countries in the world, but ten of them are responsible for the bulk of greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. Among them are: the United States, China, India, Russia, the European Union 28, Brazil, Japan, Canada, Mexico, and Indonesia. Those are the principal culprits.
Helene Valenzuela/AFP/Getty Images
The rest of us are suffering for the consumption of that group of countries. We are the victims, therefore, of other nations’ profligacy. We contribute less than 0.001 percent of greenhouse gas emissions, and I’m talking about the Caribbean as a whole, not just Antigua. And yet, we are the victims of this pollution, year after year, after year.
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Diplomatic Connections: You have also raised the matter of a long standing trade case between the United States and your country before the World Trade Organization. This was a disagreement regarding casino and internet gambling that Antigua actually won against the United States. Could settling this dispute be part of the rebuilding process for Barbuda? Ambassador Sanders: Without going too deeply into the details of this case, let me simply say that the WTO awarded my country a substantial settlement that the United States has resisted paying. The U.S. government has lost several appeals of this decision, but has continued to ignore the requirements of the award handed down by the WTO. This has gone on for more than a decade. We have been one of the greatest allies of the United States in the Caribbean. Antigua, for instance, was the home of the Voice of America when the United States wanted to get its messages into Central America, Cuba, and Latin America’s left-wing governments. We also hosted two U.S. facilities, both a military base and an air base. When you were in the midst of the Cold War with the Soviet Union and others, we were your friend. And, when we did that, incidentally, we were criticized by our neighbors. President Trump says he is a master in the art of the deal. Well, we could do a deal. Whatever our need is, that is what I’d like to get to. Such a deal would be helpful to us, but it would also indicate that the United States is faithful to its friends. It will reinforce the notion that the United States will do what is right. That is what I would like to see. Diplomatic Connections: You have had a long, distinguished and exceptionally effective diplomatic career. Antigua and Barbuda has punched above its diplomatic and economic weight for years. Based on your career experience what lessons have you learned that might help small countries be diplomatically more effective in a world dominated by great powers?
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Small countries don’t have armies to send anywhere. We don’t place economic sanctions against anybody. We don’t have money to sweeten a deal with anybody. All we have is diplomacy. And, diplomacy means that we have to present our case firmly, soundly, not rudely but persistently. Not with intolerance, but with patience. It’s a continuous effort. Diplomatic Connections: What advice would you offer to a new generation of diplomats? Ambassador Sanders: I was invited by the United States State Department to talk to a class of mid-level diplomats at your Foreign Service Institute. I told this group of people, “You are all posted to various places and subconsciously, whether you know it or not, when you are posted to these places, you go with a feeling of superiority. You go with the feeling that you represent the great United States of America and that you are in some dinky little place that’s backward. Therefore, you’ve got to tell these people what to do. That is mistake #1.” “The other thing you believe, because you are American and you come from a great country, is that people look at you with warm and fuzzy feelings. Mistake #2. “First of all, when you go into a country, understand you are
Ambassador Sanders: The first thing is to have courage. Don’t be daunted by anybody or any country or any diplomat because they come from a country more powerful than yours. At the end of the day when you sit down together it is your intellect that matters. It is the quality of your argument, the fairness of your proposed solutions, and the justice of your situation that counts most.
going as a guest. Realize that what you should be doing is learning the culture of this place. How do I understand this culture so that I can communicate with these people in an effective way? Don’t behave as if you are their superior. Try to discover how you can develop a symbiotic relationship. You might (or, might not) be brighter than they are, but use that brightness to help, not to hinder.”
The second qualification is work — hard, diligent work. Read, in order to know what is going on. Be aware. Be prepared to stand your ground wherever you are. That’s important.
Diplomatic Connections: How have you acted on that principle in your own career?
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Ambassador Sanders: When I came to the United States as Ambassador, for instance, it was the end of a very long
UN Photo/Rick Bajornas
UN Secretary-General António Guterres meets with residents who were evacuated from Barbuda to Antigua, temporarily taking shelter at the National Technical Training Center.
career, much of which had been spent in Europe. The United States was a different place for me. But, I recognized the complexities of this country. There is no one definition of what an American is. There is no single answer to what America’s interests are in the world, except those that are encapsulated by the phrase “America First.” But, every country should have that phrase. For me it is “Antigua First,” too. But that does not mean Antigua exclusively. I acknowledge the need to work with others. I think President Trump has finally begun to recognize that. And that is good because we should always recognize that other countries have interests of their own, just as our country has its interests. Diplomatic Connections: How do you distill these insights into core lessons for those who practice the art of diplomacy?
Ambassador Sanders: First, pay attention and be cognizant of the society you are working for. Know what your own objectives are, but simultaneously recognize that those objectives cannot remain rigid in the light of reality. When you find circumstances that lead you to think about what the objective was to begin with, rethink the objective. Recast it. See how you might remold your objective so that it could work, not only for your country but for the country to which you are accredited. Diplomatic Connections: Well said. Mr. Ambassador, you have been extraordinarily kind with your time and your insights. We wish your islands and the entire Caribbean well as the work of rebuilding economies, putting lives back in order, and learning the lessons to be derived from this unprecedented series of storms continues. Thank you for speaking with Diplomatic Connections.
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THE VISEGRAD FOUR
AN INCONVENIENT ALLIANCE
H.E. Ambassador Hynek Kmonícek, Embassy of the Czech Republic; H.E. Ambassador László Szabó, M.D., Embassy of Hungary; H.E. Ambassador Piotr Wilczek, Embassy of the Republic of Poland; Chargé d’Affaires, a.i. Jozef Polakovic, Embassy of the Slovak Republic; H.E. Ambassador Peter Kmec, Embassy of the Slovak Republic, was out of the country when this meeting took place in Washington, D.C. 46
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Photo courtesy of the Embassy of Hungary
BY ROLAND FLAMINI
Getty Images/iStock/michal812
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representatives of the Visegrad 4 held a press conference. The what? That’s a typical reaction to the mention of the Visegrad 4, or V4—even in politically knowledgeable Washington. Formed 27 years ago, the grouping of the then three, and later four, Central European states (Hungary,
(L-R) President of Czech Republic, Milos Zeman; President of Hungary, Janos Ader; President of Poland, Andrzej Duda; and President of Slovakia, Andrej Kiska pose for a family photo during the Meeting of Presidents of the Visegrad Group Countries at Lancut Castle, Lancut, Poland. 48
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afternoon in August, the diplomatic
Omar Marques/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images
In Washington, D.C., on a hot summer
Poland, the Czech Republic, and Slovakia) had long become a footnote to post-Cold War history, a dim memory at best. But no longer. Lately, the Visegrad 4 has found new life as an increasingly controversial group within the European Union; and the ambassadors’ press conference was firstly aimed at defending its actions as misunderstood and maligned, and secondly, at reminding the Trump administration of its existence and collective admiration amid the current, widespread European ambivalence towards Washington. Whether anyone in Trumpland was listening is a question raised by the envoys themselves. “This year has been difficult in presenting our views,” complained Poland’s Ambassador Piotr Wilczek. The ongoing “political thriller” in Washington has made it “more challenging to communicate with the administration,” he said. In Brussels, however, the Visegrad 4 needs no introduction. The group alliance has been a thorn in the European Union’s side for the past couple of years, but its strong opposition to the European Union’s approach to
Mateusz Wlodarczyk/NurPhoto via Getty Images Getty Images/iStock/Kaprinay
Prime Ministers of Visegrad Group countries (L-R): Slovakia's Robert Fico, Hungary's Viktor Orban, Poland's Beata Szydlo and Czech Republic's Bohuslav Sobotka shake hands during their meeting at the Royal Castle in Warsaw, Poland on June 19, 2017.
the refugee and immigration crisis was perhaps the most serious confrontation yet. The EU’s mandatory relocation quotas--Brussels’s desperate attempt to impose some order on the chaotic flood of refugees seeking safety on Europe’s shores—were rejected outright. To date, out of a combined quota of 11,069 refugees, the Visegrad group has relocated around 50, closing their borders and citing security concerns. Hungarian Ambassador, Laszo Szabo, called the EU migration policy “a failure,” and argued that the reason why Hungary has had no terrorist incidents is because it has kept a tight rein on the influx of immigrants. The V4 countries’ open opposition in the refugee crisis drew harsh criticism from Western Europe, furious politicians and public opinion accusing them of a lack of solidarity and of turning their backs on burden-sharing. The January 2016 issue of The Economist, which has a penchant for eye-catching headlines, called its story “Big, Bad Visegrad,” and said,
“The migration crisis has given an unsettling new direction to an old alliance.” When Hungary, Czechoslovakia, and Poland initially joined forces in 1991 as the Visegrad 3, they had recently become free from Soviet control and wanted to coordinate the process of joining NATO and the European Union. Both these institutions had established qualifying benchmarks for a transition from communist regimes to democracies, and the Visegrad countries coordinated their response, and to some extent, negotiated together. In 1993, the Czech Republic and Slovakia split into two nations and the group was renamed the Visegrad 4. They were admitted to NATO in 1999, and to the European Union in the enlargement of 2004. The Visegrad process had fulfilled its primary purpose and thereafter, was virtually dormant. Until, that is, it was resurrected by a populist government in Hungary, and an ultra-conservative government in
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Poland, as a vehicle for their coordinated opposition to closer EU integration, what they perceive as dominance by the big Western countries (read Germany and France), resentment of the “elitist” Brussels-knows-best attitude, coupled with a sense of being patronized by the Western governments – and, more recently, the refugee debacle. The Visegrad 4 Polish President Andrzej Duda received NATO has a total population General Secretary Jens Stoltenberg in Warsaw at Belvedere Palace on August 24, 2017. of 64 million, and accounts for a sizeable chunk of trade, both within the EU and outside it. Czech ambassador in Washington, Hynek Kmonicek, called it “a club within a club.” Such regional “clubs” proliferate in the fractured European Union: in fact, coordinating in small groups now seems to be the name of the game. There is the Nordic council, the Mediterranean club (sometimes derisively referred to as the olive oil 50
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group), the six EU founding members, and the FrancoGerman alliance. But the Visegrad 4 is the one with the image challenge, as the Union debates its post-Brexit future. As the European Union has closed ranks and adopted a firm stance against the U.K’s impending departure, the Central Europeans have distanced themselves from the British position. At the Washington press conference, for example, the four ambassadors stressed that their respective countries have no plans to follow the United Kingdom out the door. Ambassador Wilczek said the V4 countries were “devout” EU members, with polls showing up to 80 percent support among the general public. “The European Union sometimes forgets about diversity,” he said, but the V4 wants to change the Union, not leave it. The V4 members’ determination to have their goulash and eat it too extends to the fact that the commitment of three of them—Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic—to join the euro zone has been shelved, seemingly indefinitely. Only Slovakia has switched to the European currency. The leading defender of national sovereignty is Hungarian Prime Minister, Viktor Orban. He has proposed amendments to the EU constitution that would make the nation-state the basis of EU decisions, and not Brussels. As Ambassador Laszlo stated at the press conference, “We believe the EU should be composed of strong countries.” Both Hungary and Poland have tightened up on press control. The EU has threatened Poland’s governing Law and Justice Party with the suspension of voting rights in
Jakob Ratz/Pacific Press/LightRocket via Getty Images
Hungary's Prime Minister Viktor Orban (C) gives a speech during a press conference after a plenary session at the European Parliament in Brussels, Belgium on April 26, 2017.
European institutions—under an article in the Lisbon Treaty which Brussels has never before used—if Warsaw goes ahead with legislation that would bring the appointment of judges under closer government control, thereby undermining the independence of the judiciary. (At the time of this writing, President Andrzej Duda has blocked the laws pending revision.) The Visegrad 4 is not likely to go away any time soon. Indeed, the group’s clout would be stronger in Brussels if its members were not divided over many issues or became a larger group. The ambassadors ruled out admitting new members but said some other form of association was under consideration. The V4 countries presented a united front over the immigration crisis, yet their internal differences are generally greater than the similarities. Prague and Bratislava are governed by center-left coalitions, with little inclination to join a right-wing revolution against the EU institutions. Poland is historically wary of Germany, though the Czech Republic is closer to the Germans by geography, trade, and inclination. Slovakia,
as part of the eurozone is more integrated with Germany and the core of Europe than the other V4 countries. There are also differences over Russia. Poland is suspicious and welcomes a permanent NATO presence in Central Europe; however, Orban has called for an end to EU sanctions against Russia, and Russia is financing a nuclear plant in Hungary. Slovkia and the Czech Republic keep their distance from Moscow, but they breathed a sigh of relief when President Trump, in Warsaw, confirmed American support for NATO’s Article 5 (an attack on one NATO member is an attack on the whole alliance). “Every 20 years or so somebody comes to Prague in tanks, so we support Article 5,” said Hynek Kmonicek. How did the group come to be formed in a small Hungarian medieval town of less than 2,000 inhabitants? It was where the kings of Hungary, Poland, and Bohemia once met to form an alliance that would make them more competitive against neighboring Austria in trade and political influence. That was in 1335. The Europeans never stray far from their history.
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The Vajdahunyad Castle in Budapest, Hungary. It contains parts of buildings from various time periods and displays different architectural styles: Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.
Getty Images/iStock/nyiragongo
Saint Stephen statue, Budapest, Hungary
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Reenactment of Hungarian medieval times in Szombathely, Hungary: Savaria festival in Szombathely, Savaria is an annual festival to celebrate the city's rich past.
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DESIGNING WEARABLE ART AT THE CZECH EMBASSY
A Revolution in Sustainable Fashion BY MARY E. FETZKO
Czech designer Iva Pfeiffer held an exclusive fashion show at the residence of Czech Ambassador Hynek Kmoníček and his wife Indira Gumarova on September 12 in Washington, previewing her newest collection TRANSLATIONS: Design Moving
Between Cultures, which will be featured at Milan
“
Fashion Week later this month. I want to create wearable art,” says Iva Pfeiffer, who graduated last year from Raffles College of Design and Commerce in Sydney, Australia.
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Already, she has made a name for herself at New York Fashion Week and as one of only fifteen designers throughout the world chosen for a Master Class at the Arts of Fashion Foundation in Paris in 2014. At the residence, fifteen multicultural models strutted down the grand staircase showcasing 20 garments in indigo blue, white and silver, ranging from jumpsuits, to cocktail and evening wear, in the spring/ summer 2018 collection. When asked about the collection, Iva stated, “I was looking into a line between haute couture and readyto-wear: garments that are handcrafted, hand-dyed and hand-embroidered — so luxurious in that sense for me in this contemporary world and the textile industry.” Iva’s label, Iva Pfeiffer Creations, is renowned for luxe fabrics, small runs, intricate designs and the ethical supply chain at the forefront of an emerging new trend. Her collection is targeted for “confident women, who are not brand-oriented, who like the individual look and appreciate the craftsmanship behind it.” Originally, Iva wanted to be a nurse, while her parents hoped she would take over their tailoring shop in the Czech Republic. Although well-disciplined in custom-made tailoring, she saw no creativity in the profession earlier; revealing, “I didn’t want to return to the village and take over my parents’ business, so I worked in multiple jobs in hospitality, as an assistant nurse, in a convalescent home, cleaning, babysitting, anything which gave me an income.” “I met my husband while studying English in Australia. He had a contract to work for a year in Japan, so I followed him there and studied kimono making and sewing, and that is what changed my life…” she added. Her newest collection roots this influence in evening dresses and suits, which have kimono features to them. “Exploring the creative part of the textile industry in Japan and fashion in general was important to me. The art and craft there just blew my mind and that is why using influences of Orientalism from a [Western] point of view was imperative — the kimono, obi belt and Mandarin colors. I would like to believe that I will have the ‘kimono signature’ in my work,” she declared. Each piece maintains an authentic uniqueness. “All my garments are originals. After this runway, most
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For more about Iva Pfeiffer or to see her most recent work, visit
www.ivapfeiffercreations.com
likely I will place a production of this range using the same patterns but differentiate features of each garment – using a different print, embroidery and color.” In addition to making wearable art, Iva strives to create sustainable, environmentally friendly designs. She studied sustainability at the university, completing a semester abroad in Shanghai, China. While in China, she visited a variety of factories to address her concern about some of the production there. “I wanted to prove to myself and gain the strength to stand up for environmentally friendly design practices and be socially responsible. While there, I was crying every time I left a factory.” After visiting these warehouses and seeing the conditions, she decided to focus on small scale rather than mass production of her work.
“Each garment will be original and ecologically friendly. Having that knowledge of where the fabrics come from and how they are made is critical because, at the end of the day, I really need to be personally satisfied with my work.” Furthermore, concerning textiles, Iva said, "I always like to work with natural fibers not just in view of being a sustainable designer, but also because I love the protein fibers as they drape beautifully: silk, wool, linen…” In Translations, she primarily uses silk, which accentuates the pigment of the dye. The collection itself highlights block printing and textile designs of Czech artist Petra Valentová, who Iva happened to meet while doing an exhibition in New York. Petra invited her to the Indian village of Bagru, where she immersed herself in the traditional techniques of handdying and woodblock printing, inspired by the rich histories in India and the Czech Republic. 56
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The fashion show was a prelude to the Mutual Inspirations Festival 2017- Gregor Mendel, focusing on the inspirations between Czech and American Cultures. For upcoming festival events, please visit www.mutualinspirations.org
“We collaborated on the fabrics and natural dyes and the block print in India…and I’ve seen how much she has helped sustain local communities. It was essential to support her by purchasing her fabrics and moreover, promoting them.” Iva hails from a region in the Czech Republic called Moravia, known for its indigo, blue print modrotisk used in the traditional folk outfit called kroj. Instead of letting the tradition of these patterns die, she wanted to see the craft taken even further. “I think that Petra is trying to make sure that there will be new block prints which would have maybe similar aesthetics but are a little more contemporary.” The indigo dyes of the Czech and Indian block printing are similar, but the Czech pigment is darker and finer. “And yet,” Iva said, “I like both…I really like both. It’s more about supporting the local artisans so that they can still maintain their creative art and craft from one generation to another – to preserve its culture and history.” Iva pays keen attention to every aspect of the process to make sure that the art is being featured and employees are not exploited. “Most likely I know that I will have production in India because I have found a factory there that I can trust and I’ve seen the workers. I’ve actually worked with them.” Originally, Iva hoped all production could possibly be in Australia where she currently resides, but the cost proved to be too much. “Customizing will be in Australia and production will most likely be in India because otherwise it would be very hard to compete in the market.” Iva believes in supporting the local communities of artisans, utilizing old and new techniques, and having high standards for working conditions. She hopes to keep jobs for artisans alive. “To me it’s like experiencing another industrial revolution,” she said.
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UN Photo/Elma Okic
Brazilian soccer player Neymar Jr., the new International Ambassador of the NGO Handicap International, addresses a press conference about the subject of more inclusion of people with disabilities in society and was hosted by the United Nations Office in Geneva (UNOG).
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NEYMAR GOODWILL AMBASSADOR FOR
What was Neymar, Brazil’s latest soccer
HANDICAP INTERNATIONAL
export, doing on top of a giant chair in
Geneva? The broken chair is the landmine memorial in the Swiss city, and the Paris-Saint Germain forward was being launched as the first-ever goodwill ambassador for Handicap International, an international organization that helps people with disabilities living in poor countries who are victims of conflicts and natural disasters. Neymar da Silva Santos Jr., 25, recently made a world record $264 million move to the French soccer club from Barcelona. continued through to page 64
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UN Photo/Eskinder Debebe
Many members of disabled football clubs in Port-au-Prince live in a camp for internally diplaced persons (IDPs) where they can practice and live together.Â
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War amputees from the Sierra Leone ten-year civil conflict.
Andrew Milligan/PA Images via Getty Images
Paris Saint-Germain's Neymar Jr.
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UN Photo/Elma Okic
A view of the "Broken Chair," a wooden sculpture by the Swiss artist Daniel Berset. The sculpture was created in 1997 at the request of Handicap International and symbolizes the fight and opposition against land mines and cluster bombs. It is located across Palais des Nations, seat of the UN Office in Geneva (UNOG).
UN Photo/Jean-Marc FerrĂŠ
Brazilian soccer player Neymar Jr., the new International Ambassador of the NGO Handicap International, kicked a soccer ball bearing the logo of the international aid organization from the Broken Chair monument at the Place des Nations in Geneva, in a symbolic call for more inclusion of people with disabilities in society.
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COOK T N E C C A
WITH AN
Chef Dries Molkens
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I NG Short story by Christophe Avril
Three brothers live with their parents, not far from the city of Mons in Belgium, in a somewhat unusual farm. Indeed, in addition to agriculture and the breeding of pigs, sheep, cows and chickens, they brew beer and run a little tavern. It is open for business every Friday and Saturday, and they serve their own beer and some home-cooked food. People from all over the place come to enjoy the local meals, beverages and unique atmosphere. The little restaurant was created in an old barn and the decor is characteristically rustic: long wooden tables with benches, decorated with vases filled with stem wheat. Old bottles with candles give a warm yellow light to the room. They serve different beers, from blonde, brown, amber, and malted to bitter ones. The food, prepared by their mother, contains only fresh ingredients from the farm like Carbonade Flamande, Lapin a la bière (rabbit cooked with beer), Chicons a la béchamel (Endives with Béchamel sauce), Choux de Bruxelles au grattons de porc (Brussel sprouts with pork bacon), and of course, the famous Frites or French fries. A place like this is usually called an “estaminet.” Today, the name estaminet refers to taverns, inns and breweries typical of the North, where décor consists of old utensils and typical, austere and traditional decorations, while serving regional dishes and drinks. In terms of origination, “French fries” are actually “Belgium fries.” In fact, it is in the 16th century where one finds traces of the first cut potatoes deep fried in boiling oil. American President, Thomas Jefferson, because he liked the fries prepared by his French cook, conveniently declared them as “French fries.” It is said that Jefferson, President of the United States from 1801 until 1809, and also ambassador to France from 1785 to 1789, introduced the fries to the United States in 1802, as a recipe from his French continued on page 68
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chef, Honoré Julien. Jefferson referred to fried potato strips as “frying potatoes in the French manner.” This is one of the earliest references to fries being referred to as “French.” But before that, in the region of Meuse Valley, frying fish was quite common. Although, during the winter, the rivers froze very fast and fishing was extremely difficult. So, rather than frying fish during these coldest of times when the fish could not be accessed; as an alternative, they would cut up potatoes in long thin slices and fry them instead. Perhaps the people of the Meuse Valley are the true trailblazers. If Belgians have a reputation for being warm and welcoming, their cuisine certainly mirrors this, albeit
with a hint of gourmet. It is a nation of fries, beer and chocolate, and so many other delights. The most famous meal in Belgium might be “les Moules Frites,” mussels with fries. It is a dish that is very simple to prepare and served in every dining establishment in the country, as well as the steak frites. But the variety of the cuisine is expansive. Le “Waterzooi,” is a fish or meat dish simmered extensively in a vegetable broth before adding cream. La “Carbonade Flamande,” is similar to a beef bourguignon where the wine is replaced with brown beer. In this dish, the meat is slowly simmered in sugar-beer before being served with chips or mashed potatoes. The Boulet à la Liegeoise also known as “Boulet sauce Lapin,”
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u To learn more about how to prepare this delicious menu, please visit our webpage, www.DiplomaticConnections.com, as well as videos where Chef Dries Molken personally
teaches us how to prepare this menu.
does not include rabbit, and even so, it is still a very famous meal within the region of Liège in Belgium. It is composed of one or two large meatballs and served with a thick sauce (based on Liège syrup, shallots and sage), fries, and a salad or applesauce. There are a lot of other noteworthy specialties as well, including, the “stoemp,” the “salade liégeoise,” the “fricadelle,” the “gauffre” or waffle, and the “speculoos.” In particular, one dish has a strange name: the “Filet Americain” that would translate to the American Filet. A Belgian explorer who set out to conquer the American West in the 19th century found himself lost in the desert. He survived
by eating pieces of his horse mixed with morsels of cactus. Later, Joseph Niels, a Brussels chef, developed this unique entrée in honor of the explorer. However, he replaced horsemeat with beef and the cactus with capers. The dish is thickened with an egg yolk, mayonnaise and Worcestershire sauce. The American fillet is more or less the Belgian version of the tartare steak. As France has the cooking, Argentina the Tango and China with Yueju opera, in 2016 UNESCO inscribed Belgian beer on their list of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity. The country is home to nearly 1600 different varieties of beer divided into four kinds, according to their process of production. The first one is refined by using a system of low fermentation. Through the brewing process, this type of ale has less alcohol (less than 1.5%) and tends to be lighter in color—such as a Pilsner or Pils. The most famous brand internationally is Stella Artois. The second lager is that which is fermented to an excessive degree. These beers are higher in alcohol and richer in color; whereas in contrast, the white
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ones are mostly based on wheat malt. Also, worth noting, are the Stouts and the Porters, these beers are much darker and thicker. The India Pale Ale (IPA) does have a pale color, though it is most noted for its hoppy and rather bitter taste—it is brewed from hops rather than malt to give it its distinctive taste. Some of the most famous IPAs would be: the Trapiste, Chimay, Orval, Abbey, and the Dobbelen IPA Tripel. The third form of fermentation is one that is spontaneous. These Lambic beverages are typically from Belgium, with a very specific sour, but sometimes-sweet taste. This kind of distillation is carried out by employing wild yeasts present in the air in the vicinity of Brussels and in the valley of the Senne. This particular process takes between 3 to 6 months and is referred to as “young,” conversely from 2 to 3 years is considered “mature.” There are four categories of beers derived from Lambics: “Gueuze,” “Kriek,” “Raspberry,” and “Faro.” The most well-known are the “Mort subite,” “Belle Vue,” “Cantillon,” “Saint Louis,” “Girardin,” “Oud Beersel,” and “3 Fonteinen.” The Brewery Rodenbach started this last technique more than a century ago. They use a mixture of roasted nuts, adding several varieties of yeasts
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as well as a culture of lactic bacilli. The concoction is then stored in oak barrels for a minimum of one and a half years. Then, it is mixed with a young, high fermented beer. With a regional beer, why not a piece of chocolate? Chocolate is also a much-loved, iconic product of Belgium. The supreme privilege for a chocolate maker is to become a patented supplier for the court. A real entitlement, because this appellation is given by His Majesty the King and this establishes a sincere proof of trust. There are four patented suppliers to the court: Galler, Godiva, Côte-d’Or and Mary. The “Chocolatier” is given the respect and responsibility that the position implies and the constant concern of improvement in all the domains affecting the company. They meet as part of an association to continually defend their title and to emphasize what it represents in terms of quality, trust, and worthiness to their customers. A Belgian consumes on average 8 kilos of chocolate per person, per year while the production is upwards of 650,000 tons annually, with the majority destined for exportation. Their main competitor, and another great nation of this delectable confection, Switzerland, produces about 183,738 tons per year. Manufacturing excellent chocolate is one symbol of Belgian quality acknowledged around the world. The country has more than 500 chocolate makers and around 2000 chocolate shops—one for every 5,500 people. In particular, the Belgian praline is a most notable delight. Jean Neuhaus Junior invented it. The Neuhaus Company was created in 1857, by his grandfather,
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in association with his brother-in-law, a pharmacist. The impetus for the praline stemmed from an idea to coat pills with chocolate in order to make taste and absorption less disagreeable to the patient. In 1912, Neuhaus Junior created the first filled chocolate and the praline was born. There are pralines filled with cream, butter cream, ganache, praline paste, liqueur and coffee as well as with pieces of fresh or dried fruit, and caramel. It was Neuhaus’ wife, Louise Agostini, who invented an innovative way to sell pralines: in a “ballotin” or small cardboard box. In Belgium, one can start studying in any discipline they wish to at the inception of high school. The executive chef of the Belgium Embassy in Washington, D.C., Dries Molkens, did not plan on becoming a chef; rather, he began his education in high school studying economics. After a few years, he realized economics was not a good fit and decided to try out culinary school while attending high school. So, at the age of 15, he started his culinary journey at the “Stella Maris Hotel School.” Turns out, it was a great fit. Soon after, he was invited to attend the best culinary school in the country: the “Hotel School Ter Duinen, ” situated in the north of Belgium, in the town of Coxyde, close to the French border. This school has 4 restaurants: 3 open to the public and 1 for the students. But, Chef Molkens wanted more, so he began working during the weekends at the famous restaurant, “De Eiken,” an establishment operated by one of the best chefs in the country, Jean-Marie Smets, along with his wife. He also worked for a catering company and learned how to prepare for and service large events. Chef Molkens has also worked
for prestigious restaurants such as “Fornuis” in Antwerp, the “Eyckerhof” in Boenem, and the “Het Gebaar” in Antwaert. The aforementioned establishments have one Michelin star and are top noted in the Gault & Millau guide. In Washington, D.C., groups of chefs always work in unison when they have significantly large events, both literally and figuratively. Jens Fisker, the chef of the Danish residence shared with me that Dries Molken was “the best of all of them” and at only 23-years-old, “he has a bright future ahead of him!” Here is the menu that he exclusively prepared for Diplomatic Connections: “Asperges à la flamandand” and “Asperges mousseline met westmalle Beer,” and then, flounder with Grey North sea shrimp along with buttermilk whipped potatoes and summer tomatoes. To finish, we enjoyed a delicious “Strawberry tartare with yogurt espuma and rhubarb.”
Bon appetit! Guten Appetit! Eet smakelijk! continued to page 72
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come,
all ye joyful! The Embassy of the Czech
Republic in Washington, D.C. invites you to a traditional Czech Christmas Market on November 4, 2017, from 10 am to 4 pm. Relish in the magic of the season with stands filled with beautiful handcrafted ornaments, renowned Czech crystal and glass products, exquisite jewelry, and toys, while enjoying the taste and smell of mulled wine and eggnog as well as an assortment of Christmas cookies, bakery goods and savory cuisine.
E VE N T DATE / TI M E: LO C ATI O N :
D E TA I L S
November 4, 2017, 10 am – 4 pm Embassy of the Czech Republic 3900 Spring of Freedom Street, N.W. Washington, D.C. 20008
ADMISSION IS FREE . RE S ER VATIONS ARE NOT REQUIRE D.
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the Danube River BY MONICA FRIM
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN FRIM AND MONICA FRIM
Salzburg, the city of Mozart and The Sound of Music, features more than one hundred churches, castles and palaces. Situated on the banks of the Salzach River (not the Danube), Salzburg is a pleasant side trip by coach from Passau, Germany.
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Celebrated in stories, art and song, the Danube is reputedly Europe’s most romantic river. Along its banks, thousands of years of history, culture and trade have been shaped and redefined by battles won and lost. Civilizations have come and gone leaving behind remnants of their stories in medieval fortifications, crumbling castles, sumptuous palaces, gothic churches and miles of bucolic fields and vineyards. In the frosty late November and December air, the cities, towns and hamlets that hug the river turn into winter wonderlands, aglow with the lights of traditional Christmas markets drawing visitors from around the world. To cruise the Danube at this time of year is one of the most enchanting ways to ring in the holiday season. D I P L O M AT I C C O N N E C T I O N S B U S I N E S S E D I T I O N | N O V E M B E R – D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 7
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he Danube is especially magical when the twinkling winter lights of its riverside towns and cities cast a welcoming glow over both land and water. Cities like Budapest, Vienna, Salzburg, Regensburg and Nuremberg are studded with iconic European Christmas markets showcasing traditional crafts, local cuisine and artisanal gifts in seasonally decorated huts and booths. As the aromas of roasted maroni (chestnuts) and spiced glühwein (mulled wine) waft in the wintry air, visitors get swept—and warmed—up in festivities and traditions adopted and adapted by people all over the world. Throw in a festive cruise aboard an enchanted ship and the holidays simply don’t get any better. I realized I would be in for a special treat the moment I boarded the AmaSonata, one of 20 ships in the AmaWaterways
fleet. In the lounge, holiday-themed decorations and a buffet station laden with creamy soups, artisanal sandwiches, cakes and pastries—AmaWaterways’ idea of a “light lunch”—greeted the early boarders in Budapest. The friendly AmaSonata crew was already in full attentive swing, serving champagne and greeting passengers with smiles and small talk before we were even shown to our staterooms. “Get used to it,” a fellow traveler remarked. He must have noticed my open jaw and saucer-sized eyes. “I’ve been on many river cruises with various companies. I can vouch that this (he made a sweep of the ship with his hands) is the best.” The travel industry seems to agree. Berlitz designated AmaWaterways’ ships as the highest rated river cruise ships in Europe. AmaWaterways was also
The AmaSonata at anchor.
The majestic Hungarian Parliament building casts a burnished glow over the Danube River.
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Abbey of Melk
The Austrian National Library in Vienna
recognized as the 2016 Cruise Critics’ Picks award for the “Best River Cruise Line.” Accolades from repeat guests attest to the cruise line’s high level of organization in that they leave no detail to chance. From the ships’ innovative designs, featuring double balconies in staterooms, to the public announcements that are heard only in public areas and, optionally, through closed-circuit in-room television channels, everything is pondered and perfected to make the cruising experience as easy, comfortable and rewarding for guests as possible. Free Wi-Fi in each stateroom, as well as throughout the ship, also raises the AmaWaterways cruise experience to a cut above other cruise lines. On shore, excursions are geared toward individualized
category that best matches your druthers that day. As another option, you can walk and explore on your own, pedal a complimentary bicycle, or opt to stay on the ship where you can be as involved as you choose in shipboard activities. The thing about river cruising is that it’s just so easy and smooth. There are no high waves and no additional fees for shore excursions, specialty restaurants or beer and wine. Once you’ve paid the all-inclusive cost, you can relax completely, knowing that all your needs will be met. During my week onboard, sailing from Budapest to Nuremberg, not once did I see an unhappy cruiser, complainer or cad. Perhaps cruise passengers are, in general, a happy lot, but, more likely, AmaWaterways
comfort and choice. At each port, guests may choose their walking tour category with color-coded cards that identify them as gentle, regular or active walkers. But there’s no need to stick to the same category: if one day you’re full of energy, but another you’re sapped, you can choose the
deserves credit for finding innovative ways to pamper and please a clientele of varying interests and levels of fitness. Their themed cruises, in particular, cater to those who seek luxury, authenticity and whole-hearted immersion in local culture. continued to page 84
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Gingerbread house aboard the AmaSonata
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Marzipan treats at a Christmas Market in Budapest
Lebkuchen at a Christmas Market in Vienna
Alpacas at the Thurn und Taxis Christmas Market at St. Emmeram Palace, Regensburg
Crowds pack the courtyard of St. Emmeram Palace in Regensburg, Germany. Here the Thurn und Taxis Christmas Market offers an exotic mix of alpacas and camels along with local crafts and sweets.
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After wandering among market stalls much like the Hungarian Parliament Building, a symbol of the pomp and local folks, at dinnertime onboard you can partake in opulence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire that once ruled at least one regional specialty within a multi-coursed vast regions of Europe. meal paired with local wines. But if your palate is less At night the illuminated monuments and buildings adventuresome than your sea legs, Californian wines are twinkle like fairy dust. The ship sails a special illumination available along with a variety of artfully presented culinary cruise up and down the river and under the famous Chain options in the ships’ restaurants. In Hungary, I couldn’t Bridge, draped like a pearl necklace over the Danube. help but choose the first thing I saw on the menu based Ahead, the locks of the Gabwčikovo Canal, the first of 25 on the interesting spelling alone: It turned out that my canals between Budapest and Nuremberg, provide that “Hortobágyi Húsos Palacsinta Paprikás Mártással” was evening’s entertainment. As water enters the lock, it lifts a delicious pancake with minced chicken, bell peppers, the ship until the water levels inside and outside the onions and a pepper sauce that had just the right bite—not front gates are even. Then suddenly the gates drop like a too overwhelming but spicy enough to tingle the taste guillotine so the ship can go forward—past Bratislava and buds—perfect after an afternoon of walking among the its majestic “Hrad” (Castle) and on to Vienna. stalls of Budapest’s Vörösmarty Square’s Christmas market. The epitome of castles, culture and cuisine, Vienna With vats of goulasch, mattress-sized trays of cabbage rolls, is famous for so many things that it would take an entire sausages, kürtös kaláks (hollow sugary book just to list them. Here Johann pastries), marzipan balls, gingerbread Strauss penned his famous waltzes, cookies in the shape of treble clefs and Mozart composed The Marriage of violins, smoked ham hocks and an entire Figaro, Sigmund Freud developed pig on a spit, the market stimulated psychoanalysis, and Gustav Klimt the senses with abandon. Handmade pioneered his version of modern art. crafts—from straw, wood and ceramic The city boasts more than 100 museums ornaments to aromatic hangings of dried along with scores of monuments to oranges, limes, bay leaves, red peppers world renowned writers, musicians, and figs—vied with beautiful pottery, artists, scientists and rulers. This is the ceramics, chunky jewelry and handmade home of Wiener Schnitzel (breaded pork wooden flutes. cutlets), the famous Sachertorte (a rich Of course no visit to Budapest is chocolate cake with a layer of apricot The courtyard of Vienna’s Schönbrunn Palace complete without a tour of its iconic jam and served with clouds of whipped attractions. Once two separate cities, Buda on the higher cream) and the 2,000 coffee houses that serve it. right bank towers over Pest on the lower left. Buda’s Vienna was laid out to be the capital of the Austrocobbled streets and medieval courtyards lead through the Hungarian Empire, ruled for more than 600 years by the old town, past the ancestral home of Harry Houdini, to Habsburgs. After World War I, the Austro-Hungarian Empire Matthias Church, founded in the 13th century but almost was reduced to a small republic, annexed by Germany totally destroyed by the Turks in the 17th century. The in 1938, occupied by Allies in 1945, and declared newly current neo-Gothic building with its multicolored roof dates independent in 1955. Today, Austria is the richest country largely from the 19th century. Nearby is the fortification in the European Union and, arguably, the most romantic. known as Fisherman’s Bastion, as local fishermen were One need only wander among the grounds and halls of once responsible for its defense. Together with the Royal Schönbrunn, the 1,441-roomed summer residence of the Palace, these lofty buildings offer great views of Pest and Habsburgs, to get a taste of the grandeur and romance the Danube River. that still characterizes the city. Schönbrunn's Christmas In Pest grand avenues such as Andrássy (modeled after Market is somewhat understated given its location in front Paris’s Champs-Elysées) showcase a patrician past along of the grandest palace in the country. Pretty, quaint and with some of the city’s most admired cultural attractions. atmospheric, the market centers on a giant Christmas tree Here stand the State Opera House and many historical surrounded by vendors’ stalls laden with handcrafted toys, museums. But Pest’s grandest building is undoubtedly the ornaments and local crafts. It’s one of many markets in 84
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In Budapest, the Fishermen’s Bastion provides a scenic window onto the Danube and surrounding city.
the city, each with differentiating festive characteristics. At Karlsplatz , merry-go-rounds and organ grinders join vendors with collections of handmade objets d’art, while the Maria-Theresien-Platz Market is as festive as Vienna’s creatively lit city streets. Grandest and most picturesque is the Christkindlmarkt at the illuminated Rathaus Square. In the evening, thousands of lights evoke glamor and glitz, as revelers stroll among the exquisitely decorated stalls. Contrasting with the pageantry of Vienna’s Christmas markets are the tiny traditional markets of hamlets and villages scattered throughout the region. In the town of Melk a handful of shops and market stalls sell the ubiquitous Glühwein along with crafts and ornaments. But the most breathtaking draw lies atop the town on a rocky cliff overlooking the Danube. Founded in the 11th century, Melk Abbey is one of the Danube’s most recognizable landmarks. An imposing Benedictine Monastery, the current Baroque building dates mostly from the 18th century. Its famous library holds more than 100,000 books and has inspired the writings of Paulo Coelho, Isabel Allende, and Umberto Eco. As we pushed towards Germany, the onboard revelry grew as guests engaged in friendly onboard competitions and participated in old world traditions such as leaving shoes in the hallway overnight for St. Nicholas to fill with a treat or searching for the Christmas pickle (you’ll have to take the cruise yourself to learn about this old European custom). As the food choices expanded, so did our waistlines, aided by a seemingly endless parade of sweets—from decadent tortes to traditional tarts and pastries. By the time we hit Passau and Salzburg, we were practically seasoned gourmands, able to distinguish between genuine handmade Mozartkugeln and the mass-produced variety; some of us even knew what Kaiserschmarren were! (spoiler alert: a sugary egg dish.) The one thing that never came easy was choosing the day’s excursions. In Passau, St. Stephan’s Cathedral boasted one of the largest organs in the world, but Salzburg, the city of Mozart, was a continued to page 88
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At Regensburg’s Thurn und Taxis Christmas Market, visitors can watch artists and artisans, such as this woodcarver, engage in their crafts.
A turret of St. Emmeram Palace in Regensburg.
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A festive arch greets visitors to the Christmas market at Vienna’s City Hall.
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THANKS AmaWaterways for their sponsorship. With a fleet of 20 ships and itineraries in Europe, Africa and Southeast Asia, AmaWaterways is a leader in luxury river cruises. In addition to Christmas market cruises, the company offers special themed cruises for connoisseurs of art and wine. They are continually adding new itineraries and shore excursions. To book a cruise contact your professional travel agent or call 1-800-626-0126. For information: www.amawaterways.ca.
mere two-hour drive away. With both cities known for fortifications, Baroque architecture and traditional Christmas markets, the choice was a toss-up. One could also pedal a ship’s bicycle along the Danube to Erlau. You’d have to take this same cruise at least three more times to fit everything in. In the end, I let the spirit of Mozart tug my sleeve with a bit of help from Julie Andrews and Christopher Plummer, and my reminiscences of the 1960s classic Rodgers and Hammerstein movie, The Sound of Music. As I meandered among parks, palaces and Gothic churches,
Regensburg
Nuremberg
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through narrow streets lined with Renaissance and Baroque facades, then rode Austria’s oldest cable car to the top of the Hohensalzburg Fortress to take in the whole city, I could almost imagine the hills that cradle the city coming alive with the sound of music. Back on board, we headed full swing into the heart of Bavaria as we cruised toward Regensburg, our last stop on the Danube River. Regensburg is one of Germany’s best-preserved cities, amazingly untouched by World War II. Founded as Castra Regina by Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius in AD 179, a foundation stone bearing that information survives embedded in the facade of a house built into the ruins of the city wall. The other ode to Roman times is the city’s majestic city gate, Porta Praetoria, one of only two standing Roman ruins in Germany. The city boasts some of Germany’s oldest medieval structures, including Regensburg’s emblematic stone bridge and, reputedly, the oldest restaurant in the country, the Wurstkuchl, built in the 12th century to feed the bridge builders. Centuries unfurl in quaint squares and along cobblestone streets and alleyways lined with the patrician homes of merchants who indicated their wealth by the height of the towers on their homes. On the southern fringe of the old town, St. Emmeram Palace, the ancestral palace of Princess Gloria of Thurn und Taxis, hosts an extravagant Christmas Market that looks as if it came straight out of a fairytale. Unlike other markets, this is a ticketed event with open-fire warming stations, Nuremberg Castle’s Sinwell Tower
Salzburg
an indoor café, steaming cauldrons of glühwein, artisanal crafts and giant modern artworks in glass, wood and metal. Penned llamas and rideable camels offer an exotic touch, while an amusement park with carousels, trains and other rides keep the young folks happy. Although we leave the Danube at Regensburg, the cruise continues along the Main-Danube Canal to Nuremberg, a city that was almost totally destroyed in World War II. The historic buildings have since been rebuilt in their original styles using the same stones and footprint. Hitler thought Nuremberg was the most German city so he erected massive propaganda buildings and held Nazi Party rallies here. The sites were later converted to park grounds, a storage area and a home for the Nuremberg Symphony Orchestra. After the famous Nuremberg Trials took place here, the city gained a reputation for tolerance and once again became a center for trade. It is now known for its trade fairs and traditional culinary specialties like Bratwurst and Lebkuchen, the latter made with local honey and spices from all over the world (a throwback to Nuremberg’s location along the ancient spice routes). The whole gets washed down with Rotbier (red beer) or Weissbier (wheat beer). At night, the illuminated Kaiserburg (Castle) tops the city like a tiara and looks particularly festive in winter. But a more immersive festivity takes place at Market Square, where the most famous Christmas Market in
Quaint half-timbered architecture in the city of Nuremberg
Germany epitomizes all we have come to associate with this centuries’ old tradition. You won’t find a single mass produced item in the almost 200 booths that stretch all the way towards the Nativity scene trail that leads to the Children’s Christmas Market with carousels and a Ferris wheel at Hans-Sachs Square. Specialties like figures made out of prunes are some of the most popular items. Though Christmas markets formed a unifying cruise theme, the Danube River gets the credit for introducing us to them. It may be Europe’s most fabled river, but waltz king Johann Strauss got it wrong—the Danube is definitely not blue. He is to be forgiven for taking poetic license. Understandably, a musical work titled “On the Beautiful Brown Danube” (a direct translation from German) would have been less conducive to concert attendance—or dancing. But despite all the mud and sediment that give the Danube its sepia hue, for a cruise at Christmas—or any other time of year—it’s perfect.
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MANAGING OPERATING COSTS OF FOREIGN GOVERNMENT OWNED REAL ESTATE ASSETS IN NEW YORK CITY Foreign Governments See the Financial Value of Ownership in The Big City In NYC most businesses choose to rent their office space rather than own it. However, this is not the case for foreign governments looking for a prestigious piece of “The Big City.” Countries look at NYC as a safe haven to place their investment money. That is why they often do not castoff the opportunity of owning the crown jewel of real estate, as they are in it for the long haul. However, that safety net comes at a substantial price. The majority of businesses avoid the purchase of real estate
Asia and they exist in every market in the U.S., except NYC.
largely due to the sizable upfront costs. Although renting
This is mainly due to the cultural and sociological consumer
offices in Manhattan can aggregate to double the occupancy
behavior differences between regions. A large majority of
costs long-term, conventional businesses often enter leases
businesses in NYC tend to be transient due to the rapid pace
that call for them (the tenant) to pay the cost of property
the city moves in, while foreign government entities tend
taxes regardless of their international status. Governmental
to have a long-term goal for their real estate investments.
organizations have tax-exempt status on their real estate
For example, an owner of a 5,500 square foot office
holdings, which saves them the cost of property taxes.
condominium on 2nd Ave near the UN may pay an average
Commercial condominium (or condo) is an opportunity individually owned unit that is part of a larger multi-unit building with various businesses as owners. A condo owner also receives an undivided interest in the common areas of
of $7,500 per month in common charges. A space rented of that exact size and location can be upwards of $25,000 per month. Yet, office condominiums only make up 2 percent of the NYC office market.
the building, including the hallways, parking areas (a rare
One such condominium where multi-country missions
occurrence in Manhattan), property grounds, etc. There can
and consulates reside is the 15-story office building, 2 Dag
be dozens of unit owners in a 30-story Manhattan office
Hammarskjöld Plaza (named after the Swedish Diplomat and
building. Office condominiums are prevalent in Europe and
2nd secretary-general of the UN). “2 Dag” is a condominium
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office building just steps away from the United Nations HQ
income for the owners whenever and wherever possible.
in NYC and houses the consular offices for Saudi Arabia,
Some nations will hire management companies to oversee
Portugal, Greece, Bahrain, Ethiopia, Morocco, and Jordan
their own income-generating properties while also saving
amongst other commercial offices and retail space. Office
countries money on energy costs, supplies, insurance,
condominium ownership at 2 Dag Hammarskjold Plaza Condo
to even services like electrical and plumbing (due to the
allows countries to lock in their occupancy costs and insulate
management company’s large purchasing power and
themselves from the ever-rising expense of office leasing in
economies of scale). “I can say that unfortunately, that
Midtown Manhattan. Metropolitan Pacific Properties is the
reputation of being rich in cash has reverberated beyond the
Property Management company and Realtor for 2 Dag Hammarskjold Plaza and works exclusively with the diplomatic community to manage their Real Estate assets in NYC. Brandon Osman, COO of the
25-year-old family firm is a fiduciary of hundreds of millions of dollars’ worth of foreign real estate assets in midtown-east. He is also in charge of taking care of the day-to-day operation of the building
Metropolitan Pacific Properties
NYC real estate industry.” Osman states. “People recognize that the
is the Property Management
foreign client is an easy target for
company and Realtor for 2 Dag
are not familiar with the region. We
Hammarskjold Plaza and works
price gouging because they often have seen it all too frequently where governments are taken advantage of
exclusively with the diplomatic
by contractors and charged ‘more-
community to manage their
rendered services.” It takes a strong
Real Estate assets in NYC.
than-industry standards’ for the same Property Management company in accordance with the Condominium
including overseeing staff, security and compliance with
Board to fight for every single penny when it comes to
city regulations. The owners of the condominium pay the
spending money on building operations and building
management company in the form of a small monthly
improvement costs.
“common charge” so that they may take care of the property and run it safely and efficiently.
Right now is a great time to buy and own Commercial Real Estate in NYC and a qualified property manager will
Having a property management company run the operations
make these investments much simpler and cost effective
of a country’s commercial property is beneficial to owners
for owners no matter what part of the world they come
because they have the resources and experience it takes to
from. If you would like to learn more about how a property
manage and hold real estate in any particular locality. Simply,
management can help save your country money on building
they can take the stresses out of real estate ownership.
operating costs and earn additional income, call or email
Osman also looks at ways of saving and even generating
us today.
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• IN FO@MET PACPROPERT IES.COM • (212) 944- 91 0 0
PROUDLY SERVING SERVING THE THE PROUDLY DIPLOMATIC COMMUNITY COMMUNITY DIPLOMATIC
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For Formore moreinformation, information,please pleasevisit visitour ourwebsite websiteWWW.METPACPROPERTIES.COM, WWW.METPACPROPERTIES.COM,call callororemail: email:
(212) (212)944-9100 944-9100 info@metpacproperties.com info@metpacproperties.com
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