Behind The Makeup

In memory of my mother, Leonor Silveira da Costa, who was always by my side, praying and cheering for my success, sacrificing basic comforts so that I could complete my studies, celebrating my victories and suffering with my disappointments.

I am grateful for her care and spirit!

Behind the

Makeup

Stories of a New York Hairdresser

Marcello Costa

Behind the

Makeup

Stories of a New York Hairdresser First edition March - 2011 Above Publications Vila Velha - ES - Brazil

Thank You Note

Behind the Makeup Copyright © Above Publications No part of this publication may be stored, photocopied, reproduced by mechanical, electronic or any other form without written permission from the author.

CHIEF EDITOR Uziel de Jesus AUTHOR Marcello Costa

First I thank God for my existence, my family in heaven and my family still on earth who share supper with me.

To Deise, Leia, Paula and Lene, for always standing by me, not to forget Caridad, who made my dreams possible.

To the Jean Pierre Hair Salon on Times Square in New York City, where I improved my knowledge.

To my agent Ken Barboza, for helping me become a professional.

COVER Daiane Benedet Ricardo Pimentel

To Josiane Silva, for his constant support in this project, for organizing it, scheduling it, and always being available.

GRAPHIC DESIGN Daiane Benedet

To Ricardo Pimentel, who with immeasurable effort helped turn my wildest ideas into perfect pictures; also his wife Eliane, “Nana,” for tolerating me in their house at the most inappropriate times.

ENGLISH COPY EDITING Sue Haskins PUBLISHER Above Publications www.aboveonline.com (617) 252-8088 Printed by Grafica Viena in Brazil

To Andrezza, The Moon, for being positive, and not letting me give up my dreams!

Finally, I thank all of my friends for their moral and psychological support, for always encouraging me, picking me up after each fall and believing in me when even I didn’t believe.

Thanks!

Marcello Costa

PREFACE When I was invited to be a part of this project, I accepted with immense satisfaction, because I knew that it would be a job that I would really enjoy. This book not only presents an area of interest for all professional makeup artists, but it also will help each reader highlight her or his own beauty with easy to do tips. In simple language, the author manages to inform, instruct, entertain and excite us with his text filled with experiences.

Like any immigrant, Marcello arrived here in the United States in pursuit of his dreams.

However he never allowed the unconditional freedom that many experience, especially living in New York City, to corrupt him. Now with simplicity and directness, the author reports on the facts of his life and the difficulties he fought without losing his principles.

The realization of this work was only possible because Behind the Makeup is a WINNER! Besides being educational, this book encourages us to never give up! In each chapter, there are new lessons, so do not miss any of them!

Josiane Silva Esthetician and Make-up Artist

MESSAGE FROM THE AUTHOR I took about a quarter of a century to solve the mysteries of women and to find the water that quenches the thirst of my soul.

I always felt in my heart the desire to understand humanity and each different race with its own particular beauty and its unique traits revealing the culture of its people.

When I started my professional journey in the late ‘90s, I discovered that behind the layers of make-up, women reveal the stories of their lives and with their hairstyles their senses of order and self-awareness.

In each chapter I let that kid who lives in my heart take the lead and act freely within the framework of each subject and I continually reinforce my view that all of us (without exception) sometimes face demons, but should never feel inferior or superior; we were all created equal on the earth, and to her we’ll return.

Understand this philosophy, our journey is easier when we keep walking.

Most people, regardless of the culture or religion they come from, believe that vanity and self-love are deadly sins. However in women’s beauty and their appreciation of themselves, I see the power of God’s hands.

In conclusion, truth is what we all seek, and the most noble sentiment that every soul longs for is LOVE!

Contents Behind the Blush 17 Baggage 21 Art and the Man 30 Fighting Weight 35 Behind the Camouflage 39 It Is Easy to Try to Imitate Me, but It Is Harder to Be Me! 41 People Do Not Realize How Others See Them 45 Transamerica 51 Aliens 57 Brides 59 The Time 65 The Love between the Fish and the Bird

69 The Skin of Sin 71 Why Judge Me? 77 Hunting Season 79 Breaking Barriers 85 Crossing Boundaries 89 Between the Sheets 93 Le Homme 97 Living in the Shadow 103 From Garbage to Luxury 107 Women of Valor 113 Let’s Keep this between Us...

116 Credits 118

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BEHIND THE BLUSH Since early times, creamy mixtures have been used to cover imperfections on the skin.

Over the years, with the evolution of civilization and technological advances, this mix became makeup, subdivided into all kinds of different substances and eventually endless different products and brands.

But makeup not only hides physical defects, it can camouflage stories, feelings, experiences, pain and love. Both women and men use it, but what is really behind these cosmetic masks?

At 16, I graduated from a public school of hairdressing in Minas Gerais, a remote town in Nanuque, located 1000 km from Sao Paulo, Brazil, where sources of information were scarce.

There, every afternoon, I practiced doing the hair of members of the community. People paid $2.00 for haircuts and $5.00 for blowouts. While I did them, the women shared stories of their families and even intimate relationships. They were humble women, without any lust, but with plenty of vanity!

“Women tend to fully trust their hairdressers more than their spouses, because of the simple fact that most hairdressers don’t pass judgment.”

Then I moved to Sao Paulo where I worked in salons that serviced that community.

However the stories were the same, just with different covers. The disparity was in the purchasing power and wealth that my new clients came with. At first, I thought that their problems there would be nonexistent, but with each weekly visit, the same kinds of stories continued like chapters in a novel. These women’s exteriors were privileged and sophisticated and with their poise they embodied a class many just dream of, the so-called “Ladies.”

Some people judge themselves superior as a rule, but forget that:

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“The man who makes the clothes is making fashion.

Fashion is style, but it does not make the man. “ By comparing the two cultures I’d worked in, I realized that, “fashion is not really the exhibition of wealth, but the expression of imagination.”

up, plus lighting and shading, works miracles.

People have to understand that as human beings and will age. Sometimes they find themselves forced to undergo plastic surgery not for vanity, but to take care of the faces and bodies, their work tools, but…

When I moved to the United States, I thought that because there were different people, cultures and languages; that the problems faced by women would be different. I was wrong again.

“The physical beauty of youth is a product that won’t last. Remember that we all,

Recently, in an interview with an American TV channel, I was asked what was the most exhausting and time-consuming part of my job. Without much thought I answered: listening!

Be happy with yourself, the way you are and with what you have. Do not base your happiness on trivial things or physical ones. Eventually, we all will grow old and lose the flat belly we so dreamed of having.

In the years I have lived abroad, I have learned several languages, English, French and Spanish, to become a better listener. In New York I often took the subway, where I heard many different women: Muslim wives talking about their husbands, Russians complaining about their children who are getting involved in drugs, Latinas complaining about their bosses, French women complaining of discrimination, Americans concerned about their husbands who lost their jobs or who sometimes are even abusing them.

From behind my chair, I also can watch up-close the circus that happens in every woman’s life. I realize that by applying techniques of makeup and having beautifully styled hair, women are preparing to face society, much of it make-believe. Also I hear stories of accomplished women, winners who are successful, beloved and well settled in every way, who only want to feel more beautiful and charming. They are not Hollywood stars or part of a Reality Show, but real women who have fought and won. These are not “housewives” but “warriors.”

Throughout my career I have discovered that the makeup may cover the exterior, but inside is the reality, that is not camouflaged.

Makeup makes all the lines of expression and fatigue disappear; the art of mixing make-

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without exception, are stamped with an expiration date!”

In my journey I discovered that the science of experience is called happiness, and when one is happy, the whole path will be easier.

“When you are young, beauty is inherent, but when you get older beauty is a conquest you make.”

“Happiness is like the lines on the palm of the hand, everyone has them, but yours are unique, nobody else has them. Cherish your happiness like you do those lines.”

No matter where you come from: Nanuque, Nelson de Sena, Sao Paulo, New York, England, Africa or Australia, you’ll discover that makeup is used by all ethnic groups for the same purpose.

Use it yourself, and you’ll discover what really happens Behind the Blush.

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BAGGAGE We all have some kind of luggage; some bags are large and roomy, some small and portable. What all baggage has in common is that no matter where we go, it will provide some form of storage. No matter what country live in, even if we only are making a quick trip to go shopping, we’ll take it. We also call the experiences that we accumulate in the course of our lives, “baggage,” things we have faced that are not only positive but also sometimes negative.

Since my childhood, I have been surrounded by people, family and friends with luggage overflowing with experiences; these people have always tended to confide in me, and even share stories with me that deeply stirred my soul. In 80% of the cases they all had something in common; they were sad stories of unsuccessful relationships.

Well, back to the comparison given at the beginning of this chapter with luggage. We all carry our lives in bags, which we fill with many memories and experiences. On every trip we take, we have to empty the contents, putting away every object we unpack. Before leaving on a new journey, it is necessary empty out your “suitcase” in order to fill it with new and important things. We know that all trips, their destinations, time and seasons are different, some more comfortable and enjoyable than others. With relationships, it’s the same. Each relationship is different; after all, people are different. Therefore, like with luggage it is necessary to completely unpack what is unnecessary in relationships, so you can prepare for new experiences with nothing outstanding or left over from other trips. It is necessary to be prepared for new experiences where the saying goes, “Past water does not move mills.”

Speaking of baggage, here are some items for a long trip, or even for one night only.

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Makeup I personally believe that every woman should have a mini bag containing the following items: - Mascara - Eyeliner - Blush (rose for fair skin and gold for darker skin.)

- Lip-gloss - Lipstick (dark and rosy) - Cream or liquid Base - Concealor (or corrector) - 3 brushes (blush, Cat Tail, and Po) - Pressed powder in a compact (for finishing) - A mini palette of shades (golden, brown, black and white) - Lip pencil (neutral, dark or the shade of your preference) Listed above is a basic survival kit for every corner of the world. Items that are not listed above should be considered excess.

“Discard everything of excess and concentrate on the inside” Here below are examples of simple makeup, which may be made with your basic kit.

Personally, I believe there are no rules for make-up, which aren’t obvious. These in-

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clude: never use an eyelash curler in a vehicle at high speed, or put on lipstick without a mirror and never use black lipstick!

Growing up in a house with four women, I learned to never leave home without lipstick or a pair of earrings.

There are 5 styles of makeup we call essential: Natural, Dramatic, Colorful, Romantic and Glamour.

Natural For many centuries blush and lipstick mainly identified “Women of the Night” and stage performers. They were symbolic of both revolutionary and “wicked” women. Now, however, an innocent rosy glow epitomizes the look of a modern beauty. This make-up kit can be used to create light, softness and a little glow, so that a woman looks like she were coming out of an oil painting.

Dramatic or Smoky Clara Bow, a star of silent films in the 1920’s, was called the “It” Girl. Young, tender and sensual, she won the hearts of men and women with no intention of hurting them. Her serene countenance prevented people from accusing her of deliberately being a seductress. Her look also captures perfectly the essence of a “vamp,” which emphasizes smoky eyes, enhancing and highlighting their real expression for the movie audiences.

Colorful Applying color to the face is always an exercise in employing both exquisite technique and savvy product selection. Try fewer colors at the beginning and as you continue, you can increase them. This way you can see what you are doing. Don’t be afraid to apply too much or

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go too light.

Applying colors can be tricky and the secret is in blending them until the edges completely disappear into the skin.

Romantic Ever since the Middle Ages, the romantic look has been characterized by the natural beauty of women and is primarily created with pink and pastel shades.

Usually, I use shades of gold, pink and red, depending on the color of the skin after a uniform application of the base. Dissolve the base into an equal amount of moisturizing cream and apply it all over the face. Shortly thereafter, apply blush on the eyelids and cheeks. Apply mascara on the eyelashes and dab lip-gloss on the lips.

Glamorous This look was invented in the second part of this century when hair was shortened and eyebrows were arched to sexualize the gaze of the woman. Over the years, there have been a sequence of women that have epitomized it, including: Betty Grable, Jayne Mansfield, Lisa Marie Presley and, of course, Marilyn Monroe.

Coming up are two versions of the glamorous face. While there are millions of ways to define glamour, I am choosing two looks that reflect different sides of the same coin. Both use classic lipstick, each has different characteristics, but both are decidedly glamorous.

1 - Apply the foundation evenly, and then add mat or compact powder with a soft bristle brush. Lightly lay down the foundation by “sweeping” the product over the surface of the face. It is very important to allow the makeup to set or firm up and dry for a few minutes for a natural result.

2 - The eyebrows should be highlighted with dark shadow, which must be applied consistent with each individual’s skin and eyebrows (brown, black, red or blonde).

3 - Work on your eyes now. Usually using gold, brown and gray, it is possible to create a crease on the upper eyelids, which creates depth and enhances the look of the eye, accentuating the facial expression. Try to stay away from both creams and liquids or even the so-called “pencil crayons.”

4 - To emphasize the eyelashes, apply clear or black mascara evenly.

Dramatic or Smoky A dramatic look is easily obtained.

1 - Apply metallic brown shadow evenly around the eyes

Steps to Follow

2 - Use eyeliner pencil in a dark tone. While the pencil is still a bit damp, use the end with the rubber tip to smudge the pencil line, blending it with the shadow until the line disappears completely from the skin.

Natural

For this style of makeup it is very important to keep follow the steps in order, to keep the work clean with a pro-

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Romantic

fessional appearance.

3 - Apply mascara heavily. If necessary, re-apply it for lasting results.

1 - Apply an even foundation.

4 - The blush and lips should be only in a pastel shades or warm colors.

2 - Put blush on the eyelids and cheekbones.

* Important: I recommend the use of false eyelashes to complete the look

3 – Brush on mascara.

Color 1- Prepare

4 – Add lip-gloss.

This look is based on a simple look, which only accentuates the cheeks and shows “healthy and vibrant” skin.

the skin with base dissolved in moisturizer.

2 - Use cream blush from the front of the face up to the top of the cheekbones.

Glamour

3 - Go over this with a foam sponge; spread powder around the face with the sponge.

1 - Use corrector to brighten the skin below the eyes.

4 - Don’t use a pencil on the eyebrows; only comb

2 - Pat on foundation softly in the middle of the face, extending it to the edges.

5 - Use your preference of different colored pencils on top of and under the eyes.

3 - Spread the pressed powder loosely around the face with a foam applicator. A little dust should be used on the nose below the eyes and chin.

them.

6 - Apply the shadow, no matter what color, but remember to always use the same color on the top and bottom of the eyes.

Note: Other colors are optional, but the rule is to be consistent with color.

If using different colors, make sure that there is harmony between them.

You can also use glitter. Have fun!

a

4 - The eyebrows should be drawn with a brown or golden pencil and then use transparent mascara to give them “combed” appearance.

5 - Apply medium brown shadow to create a crease on the upper eyelid and give an illusion of dimension.

6 - Last and very important, use eyeliner. Apply it with a clean and sharp line.

Now that you already have the idea of the five styles of makeup, keep reading and discover that in every chapter I present different ways to adapt these styles!

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ART AND THE MAN

formers who are working hard at other jobs, such as waiters, housekeepers, etc., while continuing to try and get roles in movies, or star in Broadway shows. Everyone is fighting for a place in the sun.

Theoretically speaking, art is the form or process of expressing thoughts using symbols and materials that influence or affect our senses and emotions in various human activities. This creativity can be expressed through: music, literature, film, sculpture, photography and painting. Traditional terminology calls artistic skills, “talents” or “gifts.”

“Art is the clothes that the artist wears!”

An artist is a person who expresses himself with one or more art-related skills, practicing or showing them in a distinctive way.

So, now that you understand the concept of art and the artist, let begin our chapter.

On a trip to Massachusetts and one of my workshops, I was talking to Andreza Moon, an artist in body painting, and she told me about her life. Single, 24 years old and the mother of a daughter, she arrived in the United States at age 19. An innate artist and always inspired by the more abstract art forms, her story moved me. Even with all her difficulties, she did not give up her dreams and today she is the owner of The Dream Factory, where she works with her different artistic skills to survive financially.

During years of working in the Fashion District in New York City, I have been surrounded by stylists, designers and editors for magazines such as Vogue, Essence, Glamour, Vanity Fair, Maxim and many others. From them I learned that in order to turn art into cash it is necessary to have an intermediary. I’ll explain better how the hierarchy of a fashion brand works.

Designer - Patterns (usually outside the U.S.) - Production - Marketing – Sales: All this happens before a fashion reaches store shelves. This is the chain that makes art happen.

Beyond the fashion world we find another class of artists, struggling and aspiring per-

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Style is expressed in many media; among them the exhibition of fashion, and the biggest event in that industry is called “Fashion Week.” At this event I had the honor of working with top designers like Tom Ford, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Oscar de la Renta, Xoxo, Juice Catour, De Fusion, Channel, DKNY, Liz Claiborne and more.

Behind the scenes there, it is crazy with all kinds of temperaments and moods.

As a leading hair and makeup artist, I always have a large number of professionals under my supervision, and there is great responsibility on our shoulders. After all the months of work of the designers, it now depends on our finishing touches to enhance the beauty of their creations. Adrenaline plus the long hours of preparation makes this exhausting, but immediate relief comes when the curtain rises and the show begins.

Another extremely important part of it is the models. In the past, a model was only for pictures and mannequins were for the catwalk. Today, the two qualifications have been combined into one. Girls - tall, thin and beautiful prepare for hours between hair, makeup and costume changes. It’s crazy excitement that lasts for a short time, but and for this, they have to practice walking in heels by Louis XV furniture and selling $ 5,000 purses with a smile, Therefore I think that a model is an artist.

The explosion of Giselle Bundchen on runways gave a new direction to the world of

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fashion, which had to adapt its styles to her perfect shape and change their concept of who was TOPs. In the art world, besides the models, singers, painters, designers, artists, television performers and many others, we are the hairdressers and makeup artists, who like all other artists live in their moments of glamour, top to bottom.

It is not difficult to reach the top, but it is hard to stay there! But love, professionalism and good opportunities well exploited are what make the success of each artist.

Makeup: A) Prepare the skin.

B) Put on false eyelashes and apply mascara to highlight good and strong natural lashes.

C) Use a bronzer instead of blush.

D) Apply natural pink lipstick.

We will now see a fun, stylish and at the same time elegant look for your next trip to a Fashion Week.

Hair: A) Pull your hair back into a ponytail.

B) Use hair spray to hold the hairstyle.

C) Tease the hair with a comb.

D) Use small clamps to pin up the hair on the tail, making a cool hairstyle.

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FIGHTING WEIGHT Most or all of us have a ghost, a fear. Something inside terrifies us and frightens us, causing injuries. Throughout this book, I’ll be covering stories of people who make or have made a difference. These are life experiences that really touched me! Now I will share my own experiences with you for the first time.

Since my childhood I have had a problem with obesity. When I was a child, I was treated by good professionals who helped me temporarily, but over time I gained weight, which made me feel like a failure in my teens. I was introduced to the use of drugs such as amphetamines that acted directly on my central nervous system and caused dangerous side effects such as severe mood swings, and sudden chemical imbalances that caused the depression that affected my relationship with my family and friends.

My adolescence was defined by memories, of being “fat” or “unattractive.” I was judged and people laughed at me, giving me nicknames like “Bomb” and “Fluffy Cake” among others.

Even when I started studying at a hairdressing school in my hometown, I never heard that I would succeed with this profession. After all who would get their hair done by “Sweet Cake”?

Imagine how these words hurt and traumatized me! What I can never remember is hearing someone say, “It’s cool to be different!” Or “you don’t need to be skinny or have a model’s body to be happy and successful in life.”

Now, that I am more mature, my weight is on a seesaw or a roller coaster. At times I am completely in shape or “skinny” and at others, I am “fluffy.” Experts say that what really causes weight gain is internal dissatisfaction and anxiety that drives us to eat to get away from something. But my experiences just make me try harder. I dust myself off and get back on that

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the diet again! You should never feel that you are unsuccessful or a failure because we all go through the same types of difficulties. No matter how old you are, what nationality, color or ethnicity, there is one thing I want to share from the bottom of my heart: DON’T GIVE UP!

If the clothes do not fit you because you gained weight, imagine how you will change.

Put them in a box and wait for next spring when you can wear them again. Buy new ones if necessary, because in your old tight clothes, you will feel ugly and that will lower your self-esteem.

Today I am here to give a word of comfort to my friends who do not have the stereotypical “ideal” weight; your ideal weight is healthy weight.

“People do not see themselves as others see them.”

Do not go through it alone, Seek help. Obesity is a disease and can be treated!

Always stay on top of it; buy a new outfit; choose darker colors or vertical stripes! There are many ways to feel happiness, invent your own!

Below I’ll be giving some tips for hair and makeup to my friends with these difficulties.

Hair A - Long hair will always be a safer choice for those of you who want a little camouflage.

B - Short bangs accentuate the shape and form of a face more than you imagine: If your face is round, side fringes are acceptable, In this case the color does not affect your face as much as the style and cut. Chose a hairstyle with good layers and movement.

Makeup Always keep light and deep shadow plus blush in your kit. Golden eyes should be stressed and your mouth always well delineated. Blush should be applied smoothly.

Note: Obesity is a disease that has to be treated, like diabetes, HIV and other illnesses.

I am not a doctor, much less a nutritionist, but someone who for 28 years was constantly battling fear. Do not let weight become an obsession in your life; put it aside and go live each moment as if it were your last.

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BEHIND THE CAMOUFLAGE History tells us that for centuries, makeup was made of magical mixtures composed of animal oils, minerals and vegetables which were applied on the face of men and women to create a healthy appearance when there was a lack of exposure to the sun. Makeup was a concept of European origin and was administered by professionals called “coiffeurs,” a word of French origin that means wearing a hairdresser or beauty dresser.

Today there are many types and brands of makeup. Each container has different mixtures for different parts of the face to camouflage defects, accident scars or bruises.

This chapter will report stories of clients and friends, who I helped with makeup.

Throughout my career I had the opportunity to work with some artists, celebrities, and other famous names who we would imagine had perfect lives.

Last summer I was doing hair and makeup for a Reality Show. Mary is a beautiful woman who everyone thinks has an ideal life, beautiful and with great success. What you do not realize is that behind the scenes, there is a suffering woman who has thinning hair with lots of extensions, because she lost it from malnutrition, not to mention dark circles under her eyes from lack of sleep and bruises, from domestic violence. She explained these to me with, “I hit the edge of the table,” justifications that were given to me often, not because she owed me any explanation, but more as a way to open up a conversation.

As a professional, my obligation is to cover bruises up and forge a perfect look.

Unfortunately, for too long, domestic violence has seemed inevitable. I have had to cover up many women’s contusions for when they socialize, go to work or school, and help these clients feel less conspicuous.

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I will explain in five steps how to cover up bruises: 1 - Bruises have a greenish or bluish color; I recommend in this situation to use concealer that is green or orange in color.

2 - Apply the green part above the blue, and the orange on top of the green.

3 - Apply a little blush on top to mimic the circulation of blood underneath of the skin.

4 - It is important to remember that after each step you should apply a little powder on top of each layer of makeup, so that it does not mix with the colors that follow. (To apply powder, use a special foam sponge.)

5 – Gently apply the base to match the tone of the skin without scrubbing it on the face.

Use light taps to not damage the work of camouflage and so that the coverage better penetrates the skin.

Note 1: Here in New York State, we use cream on bruises to diminish dark circles and swelling around the eyes. However, do not use too much.

Note 2: We use this technique before photo tests, for photography sessions, film, TV and during fashion week, where the cream solves problem of puffy eyes very quickly.

IT IS EASY TRY TO IMITATE ME, BUT IT IS HARDER TO BE ME! In our lives we find people who use us as scapegoats, apparently working 24/7 to make our lives impossible. These people want to be like you. Imagine a tree full of ripe fruit that is very tender. Any one of us, is tempted to throw stones to knock the fruit off, isn’t that true? But if we find ourselves under a dry tree full of branches, we ignore it completely. It will not attract us, because it has no beauty! In short, if people attack you it’s because you are a tree full of fruit.

You who are reading this book, I want to tell you that you have your own light like the sun. Do not let yourself be compared with a moon or a planet, because they simply reflect the light but do not have their own.

Often you are faced with situations in life where people approach you to “take advantage” or to learn something to get the better of you, or even to take your place. These people are like simple asteroids that only shine by reflecting your light.

Wisdom tells us, “The cat taught the lion all his tricks, but not how to climb trees.”

Always keep the final piece of the puzzle for yourself. Never reveal all of it; this applies to all parts of your life, both personal and professional. Do not take this advice as a tactic of war, but rather because care must be taken to prevent further harm.

Sometimes I ask myself the following question, do I fit into a group of people who only covet what belongs to others?

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Here’s an example. Your cousin is getting married, but you’re still single. It is one thing to want to have something similar to what she has that will make you happy, and quite another to want her man! The difference between these things is extreme, but the line that divides them is very fine. Unfortunately these desires are natural and human. Many people want what belongs to you, which can lead to your destruction, so be cautious.

Be yourself. Everyone has different skills or talents, like the fingers of each hand have different functions. No matter what you do, or how you enjoy your talents, at the end you are the only one under your skin.

In this lesson we will be covering the visible layer of skin:

Using Foundation.

Generally apply foundation mixed with a moisturizer.

It can be used daily even on hot days, because it does not clog the pores, and it mimics your natural skin. After it, apply only blush, mascara and gloss.

You are READY TO GO!

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PEOPLE DO NOT REALIZE HOW OTHERS SEE THEM Since the beginning of my career I have had the opportunity to work with various models, men and women with unimaginable physical perfection, which subsequently was envied by all. They also shared “insecurity,” always thinking or seeing imperfections that did not exist, often feeling ugly and unattractive. These subconscious illusions and insecurities sometimes joined together and destroyed their self-esteem.

Experts in human psychology, explain that this uncertainty is nothing more than a reflection of posttraumatic stress, experienced at a certain point in people’s lives and pointing to “defects” that have already been corrected over time.

For example, a model who made her career with the perfection of her eyes, eyelids and forehead, was named the No. 1 beauty by a cosmetic line in New York, but she has a 5 cm scar on the side of her face near her eye. Even though this scar is not visible anymore, thanks to various laser and cosmetic treatments, she confessed to me that she still can see the scar in her photos.

Another case of comparing what “is’ with “how it should be!”

In my teens I had the pleasure of attending one of the best schools in Brazil, at UNASPCAMPUS 1, which was an opportunity given to me by a very special person. At that time the scholarship system allowed trainees in different departments, and fate led me to Assistant Professor Eliana Reis to whom I dedicate this chapter. I believe she was an inspiration for many people who like me who are reflections of her dedication, determination, and courage to overcome

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life’s adversities.

She has three daughters: Juliana, Jacqueline and Jessica. Juliana is the oldest, with a tranquil and serene temperament. Jacqueline is even more quiet and reserved, and Jessica is happy and extremely outgoing. Now that you know a little more about each of them, I will tell what happened to Jacqueline and Jessica who are identical twins.

The Reis family was traveling on a road in the central region of Brazil. Unfortunately a fatal car accident claimed the life of Professor Roberto Reis, patriarch of the family. Jessica, one of the twins, was thrown out of the car and seriously injured, fracturing her facial structure.

The other two girls were injured slightly.

In time, Eliana returned to Sao Paulo, where she had the opportunity to re-establish herself along with her family and take care of little Jessica, who had to undergo numerous painful surgeries and facial reconstruction. Even with the slowness of recovery, Jessica never lost her luster. Today, already an adult, her features have matured, but the marks of brutish accident remained etched in her face. She leads a normal life, however; her career and personal life have always been parallel. She is a person who will never be judged by her appearance; I imagine she’s had countless moments of sadness, but she has never let them weaken her.

There are people who imagine things that are not there and feel ugly - for example, models who see flab where it never existed. At the other extreme, using a bit of empathy, imagine yourself in place of Jessica, where every day she goes to sleep and then gets up and sees her identical twin sister, who still looks way she was “supposed to,” if the accident had not changed her life and her family forever. This harsh reality would imprison some in a torture chamber of their own making, but for Jessica, no. She never saw this situation as an obstacle to continue pursuing her life.

In my chair have sat many Jessica’s and I as Hair Designer, have been able to help them cover up or camouflage the signs of imperfection

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Below I will teach how by changing the style of their hair and makeup, you can help your customers feel more comfortable in the skin they wear:

Hair Short fringe is a big “no no” because it exposes more of the face. If you are creating layers, make sure that the first layer falls below the chin.

Stay away from colors or shades that are morbid or dark like black, or very light like platinum blonde. Also beware, if the skin has acne, make sure the hair is not always come in contact with the skin, so that the oils and impurities of the hair don’t get on the sensitive skin.

In this situation, a ponytail can be an option.

Makeup A good concealer is the key to makeup correction. For those who have scars visible on auto focus, use concealer that’s a shade darker than the foundation to give the illusion of highlights and shading. This technique is only for scars that are raised. Where there is loss of muscle or bone, use a corrector with lighter tone to highlight the hollow area and use foundation around the edges that is your normal skin tone. It is very important to blend the two colors where they meet, so no that one will notice the difference between them.

For skin with acne, choose a base that has gray pigment, because acne is caused by irritation and is usually rosy or red. Also it is prudent to avoid any type of moisturizer with an oily base, so as not to further aggravate the situation of the skin. Always be cautious when applying and removing makeup so you will not cause more serious inflammation.

If the face is covered with burn marks, usually they are lighter than the rest of the natural skin tone. Before applying foundation use a concealer slightly darker than your natural skin tone on the marks to match the rest of the skin. Apply the foundation with a damp sponge, lightly tapping it on the skin and then apply pressed powder if necessary.

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For those who have been victims of accidents and suffered some type of facial deformation, my advice is simple: Always wear smoky eye shadow for dramatic effect. Have welldefined eyebrows and use mascara and lip-gloss that are remarkable.

Note: Use the natural makeup style from the first chapter.

In memory of Professor Roberto Reis.

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TRANSAMERICA Read this chapter only if you have an open mind and accept the so considered third-class of humans, “Transgender” For years, I have been surrounded by transgender people, individuals who have been categorized in many cultures as a lower level of life, people who for thousands of years were in the basement of Roman society and other cultures.

What is transgender? The answer is simple; the name says it all - a transformation or transition of sex, from male to female or female to male. The terminology is the same for both sexes.

A) What leads people to want to change their sex? According to surveys, there is an imbalance of X and Y-chromosomes.

B) Do all the gays tend to become transsexuals? No! Science explains that homosexuals are attracted to the opposite sex being conscious of their gender. Transsexuals feel caged or Like they don’t fit into their original gender, which leads him or her to this metamorphic process where treatment can be done.

C) What is this treatment? Generally the first step is the application of hormones, secondly surgical procedures, implants for males and mastectomies for women, and even surgery for the removal or modification of genital organs.

Now that you already have a general basic knowledge about transsexuals, I will tell you about some real experiences.

One afternoon on New Year’s Eve, a young couple entered the salon, she with a very enviable body and hair and he, an attractive young Latino. Nothing unusual was noticeable. The

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receptionist guided them to my workstation because the beautiful girl had an appointment for hair extensions. When she spoke I felt in her voice that she was not genetically female, but a transsexual in transition. We were chatting while I put in her hair extensions, which is a lengthy process, usually 3 to 5 hours. During this time she was talking about how her treatment was painful.

Priscilla began her transformation when she was 18 years old, the legal age in the United States. First she took hormones, and all she had been living for 18 years of life began to change.

When a transformation becomes visible, the hair stops growing, the nipples begin to develop, hips widen slightly and the skin softens. When hormones are taken, it is like insulin for people with diabetes. The side effects are unimaginable: severe mood swings, fatigue and even depression in some cases. Priscilla continued her journey of transformation with a surgical procedure and breast implants. Within six months, her waist was thinner.

As we know a man is genetically different from a woman in numerous ways, including the body shape. Men have wider shoulders, plus are straight at the waist and hips, unlike women who have smaller shoulders, rounded hips and tapered waists.

For Priscilla to sharpen her waist she had to have two ribs removed on each side, and she got silicone prostheses in her hips and buttocks to make them more feminine and voluptuous.

For this procedure there are three months of recovery. At no time can she stop taking hormones because, according to her doctor that is the only way she can make the body produce sperm, which will be diverted and stored in a place in the body, so that in future after the removal of the penis, artificial insemination can be possible, allowing this “woman” to become a mom.

Priscilla has a normal life, being the only daughter. Also, being in an upper middle class family, she has access to the best of medical care. Unfortunately, not all transsexuals have the opportunity to be treated by the best doctors. Few have families that give psychological and financial support. In reality Priscilla is an exception. In stark contrast, many transsexuals are working as performers and others (the majority), are obliged by society (if not it’s parameters), to take up prostitution, and drug trafficking. Because of their sexual identities, they have been

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abandoned by friends, boyfriends and even kicked out of their homes by their own families or at best have left their cities to try life abroad.

Many undergo illegal, homemade hormone treatments and even injections of industrial silicone into their bodies. The injection of silicone should be a surgical treatment done in licensed clinics by qualified professionals who distribute it evenly between muscles and skin.

Since industrial silicone is injected with the aid of a syringe, it is often spread unevenly, and there is a great risk is of contamination and infection. The silicone is in a bandage that deteriorates with time, which makes it almost impossible to remove, if it was injected and without layers of protection. Industrial silicon invades the muscles and tissues, in some cases causing necrosis.

A similar case occurred with one of my friends, Jennifer one of the most prestigious “Show Girls” of New York. In her youth, she had injections of industrial silicone in various parts of her body, like her buttocks, hips, and breasts. Over time, the anti-bodies began to fight the “foreign bodies.” If the application had been a professional surgical procedure, the treatment for this would have been easy, but in this case scraping to remove the silicone would be a lengthy and dangerous procedure. Time passed and a silicone infection began to form scabs the size of fists all around her body. Towards the end, she thought that she could not endure the pain and agony caused by the wounds, but the surgeons in New York did not want to deal with it. Her salvation was a doctor in Cuba who became interested in her case and worked, to save her life.

In the world there are many Jennifer’s, who do not have the opportunity to be treated correctly and who undergo illegal therapy.

Up to what point is it worth risking your life for cosmetics procedures?

Done properly there is a tiny percentage that will have complications, but these transsexuals feel compelled by society to completely change their sex, no matter how much risk there may be.

There is a difference between transsexuals and cross-dressers. Cross-dressers have regu-

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lar lives as men and become “women” on certain occasions or for performances.

See below how easy it is to turn a male face into that of a woman with the help of makeup.

Materials for the Transformation: Foundation, compact powder, blush, red lipstick and other colors of your choice, baby powder, glue stick, shadow, false eyelashes, mascara, eyeliner and lip liner.

Let’s start!

First it’s necessary to cover the eyebrows with glue stick, then cover it with foundation and redraw the eyebrows in the way desired. To cover the beard, use red lipstick, mixed with a little moisturizer to facilitate the coverage; use green to tint. Then use your powder to set the makeup. Once the beard is covered and the eyebrows reshaped, apply false eyelashes and use your imagination!

Always be creative!

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ALIENS Throughout my life I was very sure of myself; I never doubted my ability for a fraction of a second until I lived in New York. I went there to try and improve my life, but like so many other Brazilians. I ended up feeling as if I arrived from the planet Pluto, though I enjoyed what I was doing there. I discovered that the secret of the universe is not about who has more money, a better car, better clothes, or even a different last name, but about remembering the five words that were taught to me, when I was a child and that I have carried with me for twenty-seven years of my life. “I am who I am!” I am who I am, always ... “ Calling another crew on an interplanetary spacecraft bound for Pluto. If you guys can hear me, this is the time to board the ship! Final call!

There is no one like you! You are original, no matter what others say!

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BRIDES “Love is rare and valuable; distance is only a measurement, and age is only a number.”

People always ask me what is the detail that most catches my attention in a marriage ceremony, and the answer is simple, the eyes of the groom when the bride enters the church. The brightness there is comparable to that happiness that fills his heart. If you see it, you’ll know that this is Mister Right with whom you want to spend the rest of your life.

After hours and hours of hair and makeup, endless hours of preparation with dresses, flowers and other details surrounding a wedding ceremony, the bride appears. The groom is impeccable, and the bride is looking in only one direction, at him!

The moment that moves me most is when the couple takes the marriage vows. Below are the vows of Joshua (an American soldier in the infantry) and Alexia (an junior doctor from NYU, working on the fields of war in Iraq): She said, “Joshua, thank you for accepting me for who I am, teaching me more of love, a feeling that I never knew I needed; for standing next to me even at a distance knowing I might not return home; for having loved me, knowing that my love for you was distracted by my duty in the battlefield. I never returned your calls, never arrived in time for Christmas dinner, but you were there making me believe in life, when all around me was death and pain. You gave me sight when I couldn’t see and gave me strength when I felt weak.

“I just want to ask four things of you: uncertainty, brutality, your back to lean on, and cheating: You will always be uncertain of how many children we will have; you will have to use all your brute strength to keep our family together; I will lean on your back every night to sleep; and even at 90 years of age we will feel like eternal lovers who cheated death, because I

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can not imagine my life without you!”

He said, “Alexia, now I’m here asking for your tomorrow, because today was made possible by your care yesterday. When I was at the front-line with the infantry, you looked after me all the time. You were beside me day and night, even though I was seriously wounded, caring for everything else besides your own health, which was affected by the exhaustion of long days.

There is nothing I wanted. I had lost everything and only the scars remained. Three years have passed and the only thing that I have not lost is my heart. I have given it to you, and never can take it back, because it belongs to you. I do not know if it will be possible to give you those four things, but I will give you my eyes, arms and shoulders. My eyes will never stop looking for our love, my arms wanting to hold you in your fear and my shoulders supporting you, so you will not stand alone in moments of sadness and weariness. Dr. Alexia, you spent years in medical school to learn how to care for others, but if one day you are not at my side, it will cause me to get a deadly disease, a broken heart! I love you. Thank you for choosing me!”

Alex and Joshua met on the battlefield of Iraq. Both were young and fell in love in an inappropriate scenario, but that did not stop them from living this great love!

Constantly I hear, “It was fate!” Ask me if I believe in fate. I do, but I also believe that with every step we take, we change our destiny.

in Canada and the United States. Liah struggled against obesity. One Saturday on an autumn afternoon, she was getting married to a beautiful young man, named Danny, tall, dark and with green eyes that caught the attention of all who saw him. Liah, her bridesmaids and myself (her hair and makeup artist), were in the bridal suite. Her father entered the room and suddenly asked everyone to leave. However, because I was running late, she lied to her father saying I was Mexican and did not speak any English. I kept still, being more professional than normal, because I realized something was odd. Then the Father of the bride, almost shouting asked, “Why are you marrying him? Do you not see? Look in the mirror; you look like the Abominable Snowman. He just wants your money; he does not even like you. This circus that you have created for your wedding is costing me half a million dollars!”

Liah, who seemed not to believe what she was hearing, had no reaction and was astonished by the boldness of his father.

Understand that here in the U.S. the walls of many houses are made of thin wood, so the vast majority can hear all the talk on the other side. Little did the father of the bride know that the groom was in the room next door along with his best man, listening to everything.

So Danny came into the room and told his father in law, “I already knew this would happen, so I took care of everything. Do not worry. I asked my lawyer to prepare a pre-nuptial agreement that says I’ll have no right to anything that belongs to Liah.”

“If you do not change the trajectory of your life,

I was ecstatic about the situation, but acted blind, deaf and mute. I thought to myself that

you will wind up getting where you are going.”

I had been wrong about the groom, as I had imagined him to be an empty and greedy person.

We all dream of a soul mate. Theoretically we are living for him or her. Do you have space to put one person in your life? A relationship is like a plant, you will have to fertilize and water it so it can grow strong and virtuous.

Another wedding that moved me was that of Liah, an heiress to a large Floral Network

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I realized that he truly loved her to the point of signing a pre-nuptial agreement that could cost him in the future.

Today Liah still comes to see me, so I take care of her and her twin daughters.

Soon after the marriage, she had stomach reduction surgery; she lost 80 kg (130 lbs.) and

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has a normal life. Her beautiful exterior matches her inner beauty; she feels better and happier!

Here are some tips on hair and makeup for brides:

Hair The hair of a bride is something very personal. There are no rules, but there are some parameters that will help bring greater balance to your big day!

A) If the groom is shorter than the bride, stay away from tall or big hairstyles that have loose hair, hanging down.

B) If you’re like Liah, get long hair extensions and let your hair be styled like a princess; wavy, curly or straight, it doesn’t matter.

Makeup Stay away from warm colors that would be “tacky” for the occasion.

A) Have smoky eyes, if you skin is dark. For fair skin, do not abuse the shade; use sober tones so your guests can see the tenderness in you.

B) Use blush, so you won’t fade and be completely white.

C) False eyelashes, yes, yes! They are beautiful in the pictures!

D) Be more concerned with the photos. Hire good people to take care of your hair and makeup for the sake of your album . Do not scrimp on this at all; the pictures are for posterity.

In 10 years you will not have contact with 60% on those on your guest list.

E) Use natural makeup without “fashion brands.” 30 years from now your daughter will look at the photos and say, “Mom I want my makeup done like yours.”

now.

Below I will teach you how to do makeup for posterity, step by step.

You need the following items: • Fake eyelashes, preferably only extending to the corners of the eyes • Black mascara • Eye shadow: wine, brown, taupe and pearly colors • Black liquid eyeliner for eyes • Natural or pink liner for the lips plus moisturizing lip-gloss • Foundation, concealer, pressed powder in a compact and makeup fixer

Steps to follow: 1 - Prepare the skin with concealer, foundation and powder.

2 - Lay out the eyebrows.

3 - Put on fake eyelashes.

4 - Use a wine colored or brown shadow to accentuate the crease of your eyelids.

5 - Use taupe or pearl shades and blend it well, not to show brow bone.

6 - Use eyeliner, making a thin line on the contour of the eyelid.

7 - Apply the blush.

8 - Apply lip moisturizer and allow it to penetrate the skin, (so that parched lips do not appear in your photos), then use the lip liner. Apply the gloss.

“Do what is necessary to feel special, this is the big moment that every woman dreams of since childhood!”

F) The natural look is something that always will be in fashion, even 100 years from

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THE TIME Time asked about the time: “Time, how long does it take for time?” Time answered time, “Time takes its time.”

What is time? Theoretically there are five stages of experience that we go through. It is time that measures those intervals of life. We plan for a lifetime, often anticipating the natural order of things. But we must not forget that time has no time and that takes time.

In our lives we treat time as our enemy. We run out of time instead of giving it time.

When you consider this, time does only half the job, the other half we assign to ourselves.

Life is lived in its time. Goals are accomplished within their own time. “Get in line and wait for your turn.” The time of each person is measured differently in each turn, each in its place. Often we put “the cart before the horse” and don’t let time do its job. Everything revolves around time, but we are human and our anxiety changes the results of time.

Each human being gives a different value to time. For example, ask a medical student who has two months until he graduates, the mother of a soldier who has two months until she sees her son who’s been on the battlefield for four years, a bride who is getting married in two months, or a person who has been diagnosed with only two months left to live. Ask a child who will travel to Disneyland in 2 months. Each person takes their time differently; some are even afraid of the time, but one fact is certain: time has its own time. Time goes on whether we want it to or not.

Many people are afraid of certain attitudes, for fear of the time. For example, I always wanted to study nursing, but it takes a long time: The best advice is, start now and do not worry about time, because whether you want it to or not, the Time will pass. At least over time you will have achieved something, whether you want to or not.

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In passing, time is marked internally and externally, sometimes light and unnoticeable, and other times strongly expressive. Surely none of us can hide it, but there is great virtue in it, and it is given equally to all. We must divide it properly and wisely like our elders did. In the day, we have eight hours for sleep, eight hours for studying, playing, having fun, resting and eight hours for work. Theoretically it seems easy when in truth it is not. If time is properly balanced between our commitments, the best will happen; time will be left over!

Unfortunately, one cannot reverse time, but the marks and scars can be camouflaged or disguised. Below is some advice for hair and makeup to rejuvenate your look:

Hair The best advice for hair is in choice of color. If your hair is dark or black, try to keep it long and layered. My friends of over 40 years should keep their hair short or medium in general.

But the best option in this case is to brighten your hair.

“A woman does not get old, she gets blonde!”

Makeup 1 - To cover expression lines, chose liquid or cream foundation because it adheres evenly to the skin.

2 - Use correction fluid. If your preference is a mixture of foundations, use a little moisturizer to soften the application.

3 - Apply eye shadow, preferably earth tones and black for a smoky effect.

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4 - Stroke on eyeliner.

5 - Brush on finishing powder.

6 - Add blush.

7- Don’t forget lip liner, lipstick and gloss

Steps to follow • First apply the concealer on all wrinkled areas or marks of expression. It is very important to choose a lighter tone than the tone of the foundation. Do not forget to apply it under eyes, especially for those of you who have dark circles.

• Tap on the foundation over the concealer, lightly so as not to smudge the layers. Blot it evenly and overlap the edges. When applied properly, you will see clean skin without imperfections.

• Arch the eyebrows with the aid of pencil or a dark shadow that resembles the natural skin tone.

• Work within the region of the eyes, using the technique you have chosen to apply: smoky, natural, dramatic, colorful or romantic; then use eyeliner and mascara.

• Apply blush on the prepared skin, angled to clearly define the cheekbones.

• Outline your lips and apply lip-gloss.

Note: Try to keep away from pressed powder, because it accentuates the marks of expressions.

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THE LOVE BETWEEN THE FISH AND THE BIRD Who has not ever lived in a love story? Or who has not already experienced an impossible passion? Well, in some cases this love turns into memories with wounds that do not heal.

Since ancient times in Western mythology, there have been stories reported of love and death.

These have been attributed to unequal relationships.

The other day a young American, Anna came up to me and in our conversation told me about her unhappiness in her relationship. She’d had a boyfriend for 5 years of Jewish ancestry.

His religious background restricted him and did not permit him to accept anything else besides his own beliefs. In one of her visits, she confessed, completely in tears, that she could no longer bear the pressure he exerted on her for not practicing the same religion. She in turn came from German ancestry, and she had been brought up in Christianity. Both of them unwittingly gave up their own cultures but did not accept the other’s.

A relevant example is the story of the fish that falls for a bird. For the love of both to last, one of the two would have to give up their world, as they knew it. Looking at it from another angle, would the bird live in the water? Or the fish live in the air? Both seemed impossible because each was born and raised in a particular environment and would die if submerged in that of the other, but love overcomes everything and is something divine. Today this young bride Anna is happy because she found her soul mate.

Throughout my childhood, I grew up with many beliefs. I always heard the well-known admonition, “If you do not get married and have kids, you will eventually become depressed and lonely.” It was at 18 when I moved to the United States that I discovered the truth, about love. No one controls the heart. Love does not choose age, sex, color or ethnicity. In my 10-year

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career, I learned every day that love comes from God, no matter in what form it is.

Some people discriminate against the union of different religions, others of different

THE SKIN OF SIN

races.

During one of my trips I was in Minnesota, where I visited my friend Martha. Just when I arrived I came across a scene that remains etched in my memory, when her cousin of European ancestry sat in the room next to an African American man. Her family disapproved of their love because of the difference in skin color. Days before my arrival, the girl’s father had beaten her and left marks on the body, all to prevent the mingling of races. In conclusion, people use religion to hide the imposition of personal prejudice, saying things that should not be mentioned, forgetting that love is love, a divine feeling. Violence, lies, hypocrisy, treachery, cruelty and racism are abominations that exist and need to be judged. Love needs no judgments! It is just LOVE! Below are tips for you to feel free to love!

Hair A) Dry your hair naturally, brushing it with your fingers.

B) Use cuticle coat.

Makeup A) Apply foundation evenly.

B) Use pink pastel shades.

C) Brush on Pink Blush.

D) Dab on lip-gloss.

Note: False eyelashes are optional.

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“No matter where you came from, you can get where you want!”

At a photo shoot, I met a beautiful woman. Her name is Agbani Darego. At this photoshoot, we got to know each other, because we spoke there for hours. Little did I know, however, that she would one day wear a crown, her smile, her humility and love conquering all.

In her home country, Nigeria, which as we know is one of the poorest in Africa, Agbani showed special talent. Then in 2001, she broke decades of tradition and was chosen as the first Black African “Miss World!” Raised by her father after losing her mother when still an infant, she’d had many difficulties. However, with guts, determination and great professionalism she overcame prejudice and today the world can see this Black beauty on magazine covers all over the world.

We all know that skin color can still be a big taboo. In the U.S., however, many communities are integrated with Blacks, Whites, Latinos, Asians and others. New York, where I live, has become a melting pot where all of us mix, together. When I visit other states with less diversity though, I encounter visible segregation.

As in Brazil, where the way Cariocas (locals from Rio de Janeiro) speak Portuguese, monopolizes the media. Here in the United States, California slang dominates American English.

Black Americans also have a popular dialect known here as “Ghetto.” Many African American singers, actresses and spokespeople, however, spend a considerable amount of effort to lose this “ghetto” accent.

After this quick explanation of a bit of American culture, I will share the story of Lisa, a client who always came to the salon for extensions and to get other hair treatments; she is a

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beautiful brown-color women, a native of South Carolina, very successful, and she works for one of the best insurance companies in the U.S. Yet a ghost haunts her; she never had success in relationships. One Sunday afternoon, everyone else had already left the salon, except me, the Master Stylist, who had to finish up. I closed the door and when I returned to continue to work, the silence took over. Lisa who had never spoken of her life, always too busy talking on her phone, looked me in the eye through the mirror and began to tell her story.

As a child her father abandoned the family, leaving her and her sister with their mother, who was confused by hearing problems and drugs. She was unable to care for them. Lisa was already 17 years-old and still had to bear the treatment of her mother because, according to the American Child and Adolescent Status, the family would have to be broken up and the two teenagers sent to “Foster care�. Between this well-organized assistance to minors and reality, happen all types of violence, including sexual abuse. Lisa with knowledge of the facts that occurred in her home, but scared of the Department of Social Assistance and not wanting to be separated from her sister, kept quiet and maintained a normal disposition, to avoid the worst.

When Lisa turned 18, she was legally able to request to adopt her sister Diane. With tears in her eyes, she told me that for too long she had to have three jobs to support herself and her sister. Even knowing the risks she ran in regards to the custody of her sister, she often left her alone at home to go to work. Years passed, Lisa completed her studies and life seemed to fall into place; she continued working and taking care of his sister. After some time, Diane was accepted at NYU (New York University). Lisa continued on and was still lonely. There was a space in her heart that was crushed, and she kept her baggage, leaving no room for new and good experiences to happen.

Days later back in the salon while removing her extensions, I noticed in her bag a keychain with the word LOVE, which meant Lisa really believed in love. However time had passed; her sister had gotten married and Lisa had closed up even more. While chatting, I talked to her about my project of writing this book and read the baggage chapter to her. We met weekly and one day she came in with good news. She had found a young man from Nashville, Tennes-

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see and he proposed to her after four months of dating. She was getting married in November, on Thanksgiving. I received an invitation and with it came a thank you letter because of the day that I read to her the luggage chapter. The book had helped her empty out her “bag” and begin to fill it with good news. This was only a “push” though; the decision to change her life came from her.

I hope you continue to read this book; you can find suggestions that will help you day to day, but remember all those words will only be effective if the decision to do things differently comes from you! Have courage!

B) Mix a pinch of lime green base to balance the skin tone.

C) Add the cream mixture and apply moisturizer for a unified look.

D) Follow the normal steps of makeup.

Note: Often the eyebrows of Black-skinned people are hard-to-see, so do not be afraid to overuse the eye pencil or shadow on them. In my opinion pencil works best

Below I will be teaching a makeup technique for black or brown skin.

Tanned or black skin usually has grayish or red tone. To balance the skin’s tone it is necessary to balance it with contrast.

If you have grayish skin use the following steps:

For grayish skin: A) Buy a reddish concealer and add a pinch of it to basic foundation, until the tone is just right for your skin.

B) Test this base, using it first on the back of the hand or the inside of the arm.

C) Add a little moisturizer to that mixture and apply it evenly to the skin.

D) Follow the normal steps of makeup Note: For black skin, use shades of gold, brown or golden tones.

For red skin: A) Use a basic tone, similar to your natural skin tone.

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WHY JUDGE ME? What do they see behind that armor? Someone strong and fearless but tender in his situation. I am not a soldier but a magician; my armor is made of liquids, cream or powder. My arms are camouflaged with stainless steel design, but my bristles are soft and adoring.

What do you see?

I’m not sure, but I see that behind this armor there’s boy, a human being and his desires.

Why judge me?

If you cut me, I will not bleed.

If you hurt me, I will not die.

If you offend me, I will not cry.

If I get sick, I will not be discouraged.

If I fail, I will not be disappointed.

And if you love me, I will love you!

Why judge me?

If you know that I am like you.

That I breathe like you.

That I get hurt like you.

That I feed myself like you.

That I can die like you; I thank you for letting me live!

What would you think if today you left your comfort zone and tried something new that you had never tried before? A glaze of stronger color, a darker eye shadow, one eyebrow arched, maybe shorter hair or bangs?

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To make an unusual look we wil use: • Black and pearly shadows

HUNTING SEASON

• Black eyeliner • Mascara • Foundation and concealer

New York and other cities are filled with single men and women, who mostly are looking for their soul mates; many have already had countless failed relationships and never understand why.

• Lip-gloss

Together we will analyze the reasons for relationships that do not work out.

• Golden Blush

I will tell you another story of one of my friends and clients.

A) First prepare the skin, as we saw in previous chapters, properly apply concealed B) Next, apply eyeliner around completely.

Note: Use match or lighter to heat the tip of the pencil lightly, for best texture. Make a thick line on the eyelid and below the eye.

C) Next, apply a pearly shade above the eye; Use a fine brush for smudging the black line into the area where you applied the pearly shadow pearl. Be careful, however, to not completely cover the pearly shadow, because the look should be slightly smoky and not gothic.

D) Apply the blush E) Then mix the gloss with a bit of foundation for a nude look to the lips.

- Ana, a young lawyer, 34 years-old and of Polish origin, was previously married. Two years after her divorce she was back on the market and searching for her soul mate. She used all viable means to succeed in her search through social networks, agencies, and what we call “Blind Dates.” Sometimes relationships start this way, and then expire in disaster. Throughout the years Ana was on a marathon, meeting one man after another. She got dressed up head to toe, but no one she met showed any interest. It was then when Ana started to follow some rules that her life began to change. She learned some basic principles that must be kept: A) When meeting someone, do not show total interest; just pay attention to him.

B) Never offer your phone number because a man does what he wants to do. If he does not ask for your number it is for the simple reason that he is not interested in you.

C) To meet someone who is interested in you, always use the “hair trick,” because psychology explains that when you move your hands and hair in an extremely feminine way, this is recorded in the memory of the opposite sex.

D) Do not drink alcohol on the first date because we call it “the lubricant of society,” and it makes you break the basic rules.

E) Do not use your sexuality to lure him because if he is “Mr. Right,” he certainly will

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not want to have a perverted woman be the mother of his children.

F) Do not accept his invitation to go out on the same day he asks you because that will show that you are always available. Applying this simple step, will prevent him from treating you as a safe haven in the future, i.e., that the door is open 24/7, whenever he wants to come and go. You must use wisdom to determine the moment of this long-awaited first meeting.

G) Do not sleep with him on the first date because then he will think that you are like all the others. Leave him wanting more.

H) Don’t kiss him then either, because a kiss is the entrance to the soul. It is best to leave him thinking how it would be. Instead, wait until the third or fourth date, but ...

I) To socialize more, you must go out more. Do not stay home because you will not get to know anybody. Look for environments that deserve your presence. Do not show despair. Act naturally, and walk gracefully and naturally from one side of your surroundings to the other.

Use your phone to talk to someone.

J) Stay away from drinks like wine and beer; order something more exciting like tequila, vodka, whiskey, or drink Red Bull on ice that will leave you more alert for signs. If you prefer, drink only water.

K) Demonstrate self-reliance. Let him work hard for your love.

L) If someone is calling you, have a quick conversation only. That demonstrates that you are a busy person, but loving.

M) Do not accept an invitation to travel at the last minute. Remember you are an independent woman and have a lot to do. Use this kind of excuse, “I’d love to go but I have a work project to deliver next week.”

N) Use your imagination. Feel good and comfortable. Do anything that makes you more confident.

O) When all the above principles are observed and you already have your suitor under

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your wing, make sure you can keep him. These rules must always be maintained, even after marriage, because you understand that the ring you won can also fall off your finger with the same ease that it was slipped on. Take care!

Note: For some people who still think that children hold relationships together, here’s a tip: Wake up to life! If you are not a mother by a mutual decision, FORGET IT! Being a parent is a miracle of God, so never use an accidental pregnancy for this purpose; then a child could be the cause of discord and not Love!

Now that you are already covered by armor, go hunt!

Below is a look that will make men go mad!

Makeup Remember this look is sexy and stylish, so do nothing to hype it.

A) Prepare the skin by dissolving foundation into moisturizing cream (1/2 cream and 1/2 foundation).

B) Use blush as a shade. Add a little sparkle to the blush and apply it.

C) Apply the mascara.

D) Apply blush on the cheekbones.

E) Outline the lips and apply lip-gloss!

Hair Have natural hair, which means it looks like “hair like after sex”… It’s something provocative, but stylish.

For this look, it’s necessary to: A) Brush the hair.

B) Separate it into sections. Often the hair has a total of 15 parts.

C) Cut pieces of aluminum foil, 15cm/15cm each. Curl sections of hair around your fingers; then wrap them in foil and use a hair iron to press them within the paper. Count 8 seconds for each section.

D) After the hair is all ready, wait 15 minutes for it to cool, or there will be bunches of ringlets. Remember that we do not want to end up looking like a flower girl at a wedding, but have “Sexy Hair”!

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BREAKING BARRIERS In the course of my life, I came across seemingly insurmountable barriers, barriers that led me to believe that it was better to give up. Negative thoughts surround the human mind, but the best place to put these issues is to the side, instead of bringing them forward, because then you will have a different point of view.

On a winter night I was invited to do the hair of a supermodel, who lived across the river in Hoboken. It snowed a lot and I decided to go by boat, because it is faster and the risk of being stranded in the snow would be less likely. Upon reaching the other side, I realized the river had risen and the boardwalk had been covered. I thought it was strange, and then I noticed that some kinds of worm had eaten a hole in the wooden base of the dock, 10 km. in circumference. How did this happen? How could an animal so small shake up a structure so strong? The answer is simple. The worms worked hard for years until they caused this effect.

Often we are faced with barriers and we need to overcome them, but with hard work we can overcome any obstacle that appears in our lives.

What is easy in life?

People are sick in hospitals, others are at school; others work because they need to finish paying for their homes, or they deal with countless other situations that require effort. Remember that you will not be struck by lightening if you’re not in the rain. Enjoy the rain to strengthen your life force and keep going; you will be hit by the light that will take you out of the darkness. “When you know your destination, it shortens the passing of time.�

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Planning is the key to success in any business.

Some years ago I wrote a list of my goals and where I saw myself few years. With the passage of time I forgot about it. Since then, there have been many changes in my life. One day when I was going through my files, my assistant asked me, “Marcello, what do I do with this calendar from 2008?”

I sat down on the sofa and began to flip through the pages until I came upon the sheet where I had listed my goals for the future. I read where I had written about my book, apartment, green card, relationships, interviews on television, famous artists that I would have as clients and other things about which anyone who read it back then, would have said that I was delirious.

Now pay attention, it is very important, God exists and cares for you!

Now that you already have the knowledge of how things can happen, and the stranger is already known, we will glamorize you to receive this new stage of life in style. For a fresh look, I will give you tips on hair and makeup

Hair A) First wash your hair and rinse it.

B) Apply the mousse of your choice and divide your hair into sections.

C) Next brush each section and wrap it around a Velcro roller, securing it with clips.

Constantly people ask me if I believe in fate. My answer is simple, yes. I believe we are predestined, but I also believe that with every step we take, we can change that destiny.

D) Wait 20 to 30 minutes for the strands to cool, and only then takeout the rollers. Your hair will be loose and have more volume.

We must allow ourselves to dream more. We give up our dreams too easily and sell them out for a fraction of what they are worth, mostly for convenience. We are rooted in the soil, and we don’t consider our dreams viable, because of our simple fear of risk.

Makeup:

“You cannot be rooted and take wing at the same time!”

Throughout my life I have seen many people who were hit by rays of light, yet every one of them passed through rain, storms and turbulence and sometimes doubted themselves. With all this I learned that: “When everything just seems out of control, be grateful, because then everything is moving on and cannot be stable!

Usually it all ends well. Even when the castle is crumbling and the entire city of your life is on fire, believe that fate is taking care of changing your life, clearing away everything unnecessary and creating a large space for new things to happen the way you want them to happen.

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A) Prepare the skin with pure foundation without moisturizing; apply corrector around the eyes and expression lines.

B) Apply finishing powder for a brighter look.

C) Over your eyes make a thick line, preferably using liquid eyeliner putting darker shadow on the crease or ridge of the eye.

D) Apply blush with a more reddish tint and use red lipstick to look like Marilyn Monroe.

E) Go fight! The universe conspires in your favor.

Courage!

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CROSSING BOUNDARIES Life presents us with certain situations that require us to make flawless decisions. It backs us into corners where we do not have many choices and sometimes we hurt those who we love most.

My clientele consists of people from two diverse groups. On one side are people who live in light and luxury: actresses, socialites, rich and famous people. On the other are people living in society’s “underworld;” yes, people using their own bodies for survival, who are judged to be “scum” by self-righteous society.

Daniella, a beautiful young woman entered the main door of the salon with the impulsive desire to change the color of her hair dramatically. My experience as a stylist allows me to understand that this can happen because of something unresolved, and therefore it is the easiest way to express outrage. In the initial consultation, I asked Daniella, a beautiful young woman from Curitiba, why she wanted this radical change? What had happened? Her hair was natural and any chemical process would alter its texture. She said, “I’m tired of seeing myself like this”.

I learned that this young woman, only 26 years old, was working as an “exotic dancer,” commonly known as a stripper. She had been brought into this world by a mother who herself was stripping for 15 years.

On her visit she told me that after she took her daughter to school, she met with her clients. In American culture couples often go to places like Go-Go Girls clubs, just for the pleasure of experiencing a new environment. Feeling her “morals” were in the mud, Daniella was not able to meet her child’s teachers or other parents. A sentence of hers that moved me was, “Maybe I take my clothes off to survive, but I have not lost my self-respect.” I believed this was true. I always remained neutral in my opinions. In the end my clients need someone to listen to them and not to judge their lives.

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Now that you already know a bit of her history, back to the salon where Daniella needed to change her look! Hairdressers have a philosophy: if you have a problem, cut a finger, but do not cut your hair, much less attempt to cut the bangs. Daniella was tired of being who she was, but did not have legal documents, nor any profession nor was she fluent in English, so she used her beauty to make money. This seemed like “easy money,” but as in most cases, it turned out to be the most painful way to get it.

Her mother, seeing her daughter involved in prostitution and drugs, attempted suicide.

People hurt the outside, trying to kill or cure the inside.”

A) Apply metallic brown shadow evenly around the eyes.

B) Apply thick and heavy pencil liner. Try smudging it, blending the shadow until it completely disappears from the skin.

C) Apply the mascara heavily. If necessary, apply more for a lasting result.

D) The blush and lips should be pastel shades in warm colors.

E) Use false eyelashes to complete the look.

Good luck. The world is yours!

Now Daniella has found her way, exchanging the nightlife for humble work as a housekeeper. She has found a husband who respects her, even knowing about her past. She is rebuilding her life.

Below are some tips for a sexy look.

Hair A) Use a medium size curling iron to wrap around your locks of hair.

B) Roll them all perpendicularly in the same direction.

C) After the curls are done, pass a coarse-toothed comb through them.

D) Use cuticle coat and then spray to secure them.

Makeup Follow these steps for a dramatic look.

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BETWEEN THE SHEETS Sometimes it is hard to feel sexy when your conception of sexuality revolves around a certain look.

Constantly friends and clients confide in me that their companions are looking only for sex. This is one of the main reasons for the termination of monogamous relationships.

“Sex is the thermometer in a relationship” Woman, behold your secret. No matter your color or size, much less physique, explore your fantasies. Anything goes: massage oils, incense, whipped cream, ice, The Kama Sutra and other sexual aids. Renew the fire that keeps the flame of your relationship.

Some years ago, I was invited to do the style for a bride; her name was Alice. She was young, newly arrived in New York, originally from Vitoria-ES. Her body was shaped like a guitar, and she had long silky hair with an angelic face.

That Saturday afternoon Alice was marrying Anthony, a handsome young man with green eyes. Both were the same age.

Less than a year after their marriage when she next came to visit, she began to tell me what was going on in the relationship. She and her husband hadn’t been intimate for six months, and that made her angry. She asked me if it was possible that her husband was gay, and I said, “Even if he’s bisexual (the new fashion in New York), if you master the power of seduction, you’ll get his attention back.

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A Simple Recipe for a Night of Love Ingredients • Candles

3) Wear red lipstick and lip-gloss

Steps to follow A) Apply false eyelashes.

B) Make smoky eyes.

• Creams and massage oils

C) Arch your eyebrows.

• Incense

D) Prepare your skin, using foundation and powder.

• Ice

E) Apply red blush.

• Strawberries and grapes

F) Use a pencil to make dark outlines around your lips, so they seem more bulky, and then apply red lipstick superimposed on lip-gloss.

• Flower Petals • Whipped Cream • Perfume, his favorite (Remember that you want to seduce him) • You, in sexy lingerie and stockings preferably 3 / 4 length with a garter belt.

Go all out; the night now looks promising! If by chance this does not resolve things, call a family therapist!

Hair 1) Wash and dry the hair; then blow it out, strand by strand so it is very smooth. If you so choose, opt for more natural hair and dry it in finger waves so that it looks very loose.

2) Next use cuticle coat

Makeup 1) Use false eyelashes 2) Apply dark strong shades (the color is your preference)

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LE HOMME This chapter was written for you to understand how a man’s head works.

Some years ago I had the pleasure of meeting a couple. The man’s name was Nick; he had a nice sense of humor and a huge heart. At that time he was divorcing his wife, a woman whom he’d met at a restaurant where she had been a waitress. In the beginning, their relationship was a bed of roses, but with time his wife began to reveal her true colors. The couple had a daughter named Victoria, a beautiful, round, brown-eyed girl. Within the four walls, paradise was collapsing, but his wife still held on because of her financial interests. One day, she parked her car in front of their house, began slapping herself and then called the local police.

In American culture, domestic violence is one of the most severe crimes. She wanted to prove to him that she had power. Unfortunately, what happens with 90% of women who want revenge at any price? They don’t consider the consequences. Blinded by unnecessary anger, they forget that a man may be stronger physically, but women are more resilient than men.

Soon after a difficult divorce, after a war fought over the legal division of their property, it was time for the long and weary battle for the custody of their daughter. Nick won it because he had better living-conditions to offer little Vitoria.

In the meantime, he met a beautiful model, Tamires, of humble origin, who had worked her way to the top with much effort and dedication, she being the poster girl for various brands.

She’d lived in Paris, the fashion capital, for seven years where she met her husband. Today, Nick has a happy life along with Tami and his daughter. He’s a father, husband, son and businessman, who with his kindness, humility and success, is an example to all who know him.

Around the globe there are many Nicks, who try keep their relationships stable and their families together.

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“Silence more valuable than a diamond!”

Now, going a little to the other end, understand how the head of a man works. Follow these tips.

1 - When he says at a dinner, “I am not hungry,” it may mean he wants to make the meeting as short as possible, so be careful!

2 - If he did not call you after dinner or the movies, it is because he is not totally into you. Then evaluate whether it is worth taking the initiative.

3 - If he calls you on a Saturday to go out the same night, it is because all other options have failed.

4 - If he asks you, “Are you going like that? It’s too sexy!” He means that he does not like the clothes or that you are not dressed appropriately for the occasion.

5 - If by chance he does not greet you at an event, it is because he is not drawn to you, or he is too shy.

6 - If he does not send you messages or e-mails often, get out! He does not think of you!

a house?” This will lead him to think that you are an insecure and materialistic person.

11 - Do not open up very fast because the man likes to fight to get what he wants. Remember that being easy to know is not valued much.

12 - Be on time and become informed about politics, wine and culture, because a man is attracted to intellectual women. He does not want to support a housewife for the rest of his life.

13 - If he does not call you, do not call him. He is completely disinterested in you. Otherwise he’d cross the Red Sea to see you. Do not be fooled into thinking it’s because he lost your number or something similar.

14 - Men do not like women who are high maintenance.

15 - Men love to dress up, sometimes even more than women. If you love him, follow his lead. Remember the history of the fish and the bird.

What Men Like 1 - Men love compliments, the kind that matter. Some examples: a) “What a beautiful shirt!

7 - If you ask him for sex and he refuses, it is because he has another woman. Men are always interested in sex.

b) “I love your cologne!”

8 - Always pay attention to him. Let him think you’re very interested in what he’s talking about! He will think that you care about him.

d) “This haircut looks very good on you!”

c) “Your pants enhance your body!” e) “Your shoes are beautiful!”

9 - The man is the active partner of the relationship, in other words he likes to be heard.

Be careful, because otherwise, in his subconscious, you are assuming the role of his mother.

Beware, if you are the girlfriend or wife, do not let him take that thought to extremes!

2 - The neck and mid-back are some of the points sensitive for men, so cuddle him. He’ll love it!

10 - At the first meeting, try not to bombard him with questions like: “Do you ever go out with other people?” “What do you do?” and “Are you the owner of your apartment or rent

3 - Keep your hair clean, because men love good-smelling hair and will pet your scalp because they feel like they’re protecting you! Remember, in the animal kingdom (including

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mankind), the male wants to dominate, so do not feel embarrassed if you have hair extensions or weaves. Do not build a wall saying, “I do not like when you touch my hair.” The man doesn’t care about fake hair; he appreciates your self-esteem, even if you have hair extensions, so do not feel embarrassed about something so banal.

bunny inside each woman, but if you do not show it, how will he discover it?

Cute, skinny, tall or petite, does not matter! Go after your man! Find him!

4 - Always wear high heels. They will drive him crazy. You will go directly to his fantasies, no matter their color or style. Thin and spiky heels are the most suitable.

5 - Always use smooth and sweet fragrances, use a light-scented moisturizer, but one of high quality.

6 - Always wear makeup and do not leave home with bad hair; he will not mention it, but will think about it: “She fought with the brush, and I can even tell who won the fight.”

7 - Keep your mouth like a rabbit and ears like a donkey. You are the safe haven. But beware! Be a partner and not a psychoanalyst.

8 - Love and care to be loved and cared for!

Making yourself up for men is very easy.

Suggestions for Makeup A) Apply moisturizer to the skin, and then use your own foundation in key areas: under the eyes, in the corners of the nose, and along the expression lines.

B) Apply the foundation following the same steps as the moisturizer, so you have an even mixture. Apply it with your fingers along the borders of the face until it penetrates the skin well.

C) Apply lip moisturizer.

Note: If you do not feel comfortable with your body or something bothers you, still apply these rules, because the mentality of men works in a different way. They can see a Playboy

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LIVING IN THE SHADOW There are two types of people, those who entertain and those who watch. They both do their part in society.

I believe that each of us knows someone who lives the shadow of others, sometimes including ourselves, wives living in the shadow of their husbands, one sister who lives in the shadow of another and so on.

In most cases they are bound to be overshadowed, not finding space for light.

In the solar system there are three main types of heavenly bodies: planets, moons and energy, which in our galaxy is the sun.

The planets receive light energy from The Sun. It is the main source of energy and light; the others just reflect the light they receive. They opt to be mirrors in the solar system.

This theory can be applied to us, where a few people live in the projection, reflecting the behavior of other stars. For these people I am sorry to inform you, you must own your own light and not depend on others to shine. It is not necessary to be in the shadow of a person who is bright, because you also have an energy source. Allow this energy to grow and shine on its own. Try this and for sure you will shine differently.

Now, knowing how bright you are, never allow anyone to say otherwise. Do not base your “look” on copying what is in beauty magazines or the actresses on the Soaps.

All my life I worked to make women look “perfect,” and many times I hear: “I want to be like model X. I think to myself, that X also wanted to be like the Y or Z. Today, with computer graphics and high definition make-up, we are able to completely change the look of models and actresses for the covers of magazines and other places.

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It is easy to learn to be a confident person!

Here’s a simple exercise; take off your clothes and stand in front of the mirror for 10 minutes. If you can look at yourself the whole time it’s because you are a confident person. I realize that this is sometimes very difficult, because people set the parameters of beauty and they change them. For example, in medieval times obesity in women was charming. At the beginning of the Twentieth Century, thin waists and wide hips were desirable; in the 70 curves were the rage and from the 80’s to the 90’s, lean women with broad shoulders caused a stir on runways around the world. This season, lean (and often anorexic) women are often considered “healthy” in the coveted size zero.

Now a final exercise, take your clothes off, find a mirror and write on a sheet of paper, how you see yourself.

Even without knowing you personally, if you have reached this point in the book, I imagine you to be a special person, so now I can say how think I you are.

Your eyes are beautiful and can see beyond situation, beyond what other people are able to see.

Your mouth can talk on any subject to anyone of any age, but with only one word you are able to calm seas, comfort and console anyone who’ll listen.

You have ears to listen and do it without conveying any of your troubles.

Inside your chest there beats a huge heart, which always forgives, is open to love and understands people around you. Sometimes they matter more to you than yourself.

Your strong arms are always willing to extend a hand to all who need it, even to strangers, Your physical size is a guarding force and provides resilience to extreme situations that life can present you with, making them in a way unimaginable.

“If you start to see yourself as I see you, everything will be different!

By cultivating and treating your garden, butterflies will come! “ One way to demonstrate your self-confidence is when you go to the beach, don’t worry about your bikini, shorts or mini skirt; leave a little skin visible to show the marks left by time.

Be happy with yourself. Love and feel proud to be who you are.

Below, I will give you some tips to feel more confident.

Hair A) During the day, if you’re at the beach. Divide your hair into two braids, always remembering to apply cream without rinsing it out.

B) Wash your hair only with conditioner, because the salt water acts as shampoo.

C) Gently dry your hair and apply a good leave-in conditioner.

D) Divide the hair into 2, 3 or 4 parts, falling bellow the ear. If your hair is short, put it into two mini ponytails.

E) At night release the locks and you will see that your hair will be smooth but with wavy ends.

Makeup: A) Only use a moisturizer; make the most out of the bronzing of the sun.

B) Use mascara to enhance your lashes C) Apply lip-gloss with sun protection.

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* If you want, use a natural or artificial flower in your hair when is time to go out at night. * Choose clothing that is white, light, bright colors or pastel.

FROM GARBAGE TO LUXURY Social ascendancy is something very common in our society. It happens in a variety of ways - some roundabout - through work, a “good” marriage, luck, “social climbing” and others things, all requiring a certain amount of effort.

For the last few years I have encountered numerous people in my life living at an unimaginably high economic level; most of them are extremely polite and humble. Listening to their stories I learned that an innovative idea or attitude was necessary to lead them to success.

Diana Alves was simple and lived on the outskirts of Vitoria, Espirito Santo. Possessing a rare beauty, she excelled in everything. At 16 she joined a local model agency, then went to São Paulo, where the agents soon noticed that she had something special and immediately sent her to Paris. Then came what we call the “explosion.” All the top designers asked for her, but she was not happy; she felt lonely. After six years, she decided to move to New York where we met and where she lives to this day.

Another story is of Marina, who lived on the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro. She met a stranger, married him and moved abroad. She lives in a gilded cage.

“It does not matter if the cage is made of gold, silver, steel or wood, all cages are a form of inhuman imprisonment”!

I also heard stories of women of humble origin, who with great determination, persis-

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tence and work, are now recognized as famous and rich. Every Cinderella gets to be Cinderella for-a-day, but it is hard to stay in the castle. There are people who are born into luxury and for various reasons eventually turn into human “garbage”.

These experiences bring me to the following conclusion: we all have the power to transform our lives, but not everyone knows how to use that power for their personal benefit.

Below are suggestions to transform your look, the result will depend on your talent!

For a clear makeup style use: • Fake eyelashes • Silver Shadow • Brown Shadow • Gloss A) Prepare the skin B) Apply the mascara or false eyelashes to enhance your natural lashes.

C) Apply the silver shadow across your eyelids.

D) Use the brown shadow to create a crease in the eye.

E) For cheeks use a natural shade.

F) Apply the gloss.

Hair: A) Wrap hair around rollers across the head.

B) Sit for 5 to 10 minutes under a dryer to warm the rollers.

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C) Turn off the dryer and wait for 5 minutes.

D) Remove the rollers and use your fingers to style the hair.

Look right and left, lift your head and leave confidently. The glamour of privilege comes form within you! Believe it!

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A WOMAN OF VALOR At birth, a baby begins to cry. The cries are in despair, but it stop when the baby’s mother approaches? Why? Just the smell of the mother makes the baby feels confident. This also happens in the animal world, where by instinct creatures draw close to and trust their mothers.

I’ve had the pleasure of meeting women who have distinguished themselves by their dignity, endurance, strength and kindness. In this chapter I will be talking about the woman who inspired me the most and still inspires me every day.

Her name is Leonor. She came from the interior of Bahia, from a good family. She was married at 18 years old, had four children and adopted another. In her youth, she was the owner of a beauty salon and lived a comfortable upper-middle class life, caring for her children with the help of assistants, while she kept the affairs of the house at bay.

Then suddenly she was faced with an adverse situation. Her husband suffered an accident that paralyzed half his body. He had been the breadwinner of the family, so Leonor had to roll up her sleeves and work to care for her children and her spouse. Later, her husband died.

However she was not discouraged. She supported her four children by doing manual labor.

Years passed and to give comfort to her children, she moved to Bahia, but fate again surprised her, and her 19-year old son died suddenly of a brain aneurysm.

After the unexpected loss of her oldest son, Leonor was forced to return to her hometown to try to recover psychologically. The first year after his passing, was one of the most terrible of her life. She tried to maintain a strong front for her 14-year-old son and hide her tears, because her younger son also felt lonely from the loss of his brother.

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Time passed and things seemed to come together again; her daughters got married, leaving only her and her youngest son. He excelled in school with excellent results. In his last year of high school he decided to take a course to help her future. He studied day and night for the exams and applied for scholarships all over the country. At that time Leonor decided to move to a shed she was building to save the rent money. It had only dirt floors, the roof leaked; there was no hot water and only basic sanitation. There were no internal walls and the windows had no glass. To cover them, her son used pages from magazines, not realizing that the photos in the magazines would serve to inspire him in the future.

Soon an educational institution in Sao Paulo accepted her son. That was the first time that mother and son were separated. With tears in her eyes, she watched the bus that was carrying him away fade out of sight. Two years passed, her savings were running out and she was forced to iron clothes to supplement the family budget. From far away at school, her son realized the difficulty of the situation that his mother was facing, so he decided to take action. He left school and without much fanfare planned his trip abroad.

Like most immigrants he arrived in the United States, planning to stay only two years to save enough money to finish college. Back in Brazil, Leonor suffered from the absence of her child. She understood that immigration laws abroad were restrictive, and this tormented her day and night. Meanwhile her son, with the education she provided, supported himself, steadfast in his purposes without losing his principles. Life went on, and finally she was finishing the construction of a house; her two daughters were happy with their families, but her son was still away, living in the United States.

seizures, which often brought Leonor close to death. Gradually she was losing her mobility, but the hope of seeing her child (abroad more than five years) gave her the strength to continue fighting for life.

Across the world, her son could not return to Brazil, because it was the money from his work that supported the treatment of his mother.

Sometimes we face situations in our lives when we feel stuck at a crossroad, leading us to despair, but I can assure you, that above all there is God who knows all things, and our faith in him renews us every day!

Eighteen months after the diagnosis, Leonor, already in a vegetative state, had the opportunity to see her child again. One month later, she died.

Her son followed his path, went back to school, learned other languages and traveled to several other countries. The other two daughters continue winning every day with success, thanks to the example and the education they received from their mother.

In this book we have learned stories of several people as well as part of my personal history, which concludes with the story of Leonor, my mother.

On a summer afternoon Leonor was again overtaken by fate, when she was rushed to the hospital in her hometown with strong convulsions. After a few months came the fatal diagnosis.

She had a malignant brain tumor. Leonor lived with this, and suffered a great deal, because each day that passed, meant that her end was approaching, and the absence of her beloved son made her go crazy.

Her malignant tumor grew quickly. The compression on her brain caused more violent

1 4 | Behind the Makeup

Marcello Costa | 1 5

Let’s keep this between us...

Marcello Costa

1 6 | Behind the Makeup

Marcello Costa | 1 7

Cover Ricardo Pimentel

Credits

Page 56 Shea - photography Ricardo Pimentel - Stylist Carlos Page 58 - photography Cristiane - Ieva Sireikyte

Pages 2 e 3 Double Spread Jasmim - photography Ana Paula Mizzetti

Page 64 Kecia - photography Marcelo Stefanovic

Page 4 Tarah - photography Ricardo Pimentel

Page 68 unknown - photography Ana Paula Mizzetti

Page 5 Joelma - photography Eric Von lokchart

Page 72 Kecia - photography Marcello Stefanovic

Page 10 Madison - phoography Ana Paula Mizzetti - stylist Ellie Mae

Page 76 Jenna - Photography Ana Paula Mizzetti - Stylist Ellie Mae

Page 12 photos of Marcello Costa - photography RicardoPimentel - Stylist Louis Vuitone

Page 80 Jenna - photography Ana Paula Mizzetti - Stylist Ellie Mae

Page 16 unknown - photography Ricardo Pimentel

Page 84 Jenna - Photography Ana Paula Mizzetti - Stylist Ellie Mae

Page 20 Tarah - photography Ricardo Pimentel

Page 88 Marana - Photography Renata Ferraz

Page 28 e 29 Carol - photography Ricardo Pimentel - Stylis Arzo Anwar

Page 92 Fiorela - Photography Ricardo Pimentel

Page 34 unknown - photography desconhecido

Page 96 Afonso - photography Ricardo Pimentel

Page 38 Grace - photography Ana Paula Mizzetti - stylist Ellie Mae

Page 102 Carol - photography Ricardo Pimentel - stylist Arzo Anwar

Page 42 Grace - photograpy Ana Paula Mizzetti - Stylist Ellie Mae

Page 108 Mariana Mizzetti - fotografia Isaak

Page 44 Gracileia - Photography Ana Paula Mizzetti - Stylist Ellie Mae

Page 111 Carol - photography Ricardo Pimentel - stylist Arzo Anwar

Page 50 Shea - photography Ricardo Pimentel - Stylist Carlos

Page 112 Carol e unknown - photography Ricardo Pimentel - stylist Arzo Anwar

Page 55 Marana - photography Renata Ferraz

Page 115 e 117 Leonor e Marcello Costa

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