PANEL TASTING
Outstanding (continued) 95–97pts
95 GD 95 SF 95 MW 95
Domaine de Rosiers, Drevon, Côte-Rôtie 95 GD 95 SF 95 MW 95
£40 Berkmann Wine Cellars, Vin Cognito
N/A UK www.domaine-de-rosiers.fr
Delas Frères was founded in 1835 and merged with Champagne Deutz in 1977. In 1993, both were absorbed by Louis Roederer which now owns this 30ha estate, encompassing vineyards in Hermitage, CrozesHermitage and St-Joseph. Chante Perdrix is farmed by a partner grower, highlighting the quality fruit available to them. This singleparcel wine, made by Jacques Grange and Claire Darnaud-McKerrow has spent 12 to 14 months in oak barrels. 15,000 bottles are made.
This 8ha estate was set up by André Drevon in 1976. In 1980, Louis Drevon teamed up with his father to create the name, Domaine de Rosiers, named after the Rozier site where most of the vineyard is located, mainly on mica-schist soil, giving its unique character and flavour profile. Some 7.8ha focuses on Côte-Rôtie, while the remainder provides the fruit for its Condrieu wines.
Delas, Chante Perdrix, Cornas
GD Abounding with dark fruits, roses and spicy nuances, this is an intense style that shows fine ripe tannins and a solid middle. Great acidity and a mineral streak carry it onto a long finish. SF Full of liquorice and violet aromas. In the mouth there are elegant tannins and firm acidity. Modern, yes, but also respectful of its provenance and granitic reputation.
GD Ripe black cherry and floral aromas. The palate is concentrated and intense with black fruits and juicy tannins giving a long, balanced finish. SF Polished and modern, the palate wears the gloss cleverly however. Summer pudding fruit and crisp acidity underwrite an extremely competent piece of work.
MW Liquorice, tarragon and mineral black fruits. Full bodied, juicy and ripe with balancing acidity. Lots of life and a lifted glint on the finish.
MW A meaty, earthy style already showing potential complexity. The full-bodied, intense palate is concentrated but not over-extracted. The oak does show through for now but this should settle in time, as the fruit is intense and the finish very long.
Drink 2019-2029 Alc 14%
Drink 2020-2029 Alc 14%
Domaine Eric & Joël Durand, Empreintes, Cornas 95 GD 95 SF 96 MW 95
François & Fils, Côte-Rôtie
£32.95 (2013) Berry Bros & Rudd
£37.55-£44.99 Askew Wines, Exel Wines, Haw Wines, Liberty Wines, Scarlet
Brothers Eric and Joël Durand started focusing on their family business in the 1990s and have built up an impressive reputation for their red wines in particular. The winery is in Châteaubourg, in the Ardèche, and covers 20ha in Cornas, St-Peray, St-Joseph and Collines Rhodaniennes. Empreintes has been aged in oak barrels for 12 months. GD Although this may need time to show its true colours, it is exuding sweet dark berry fruits and lifted acidity. Fresh tannins give grip to this bright and textured wine. SF There is a magnificent juxtaposition of ripe black fruit, edgy structure and firm balancing acidity alongside some rigorous tannins. MW Lush, full and flowing with liquorice and blackberry flavours, this is showing generous fruit and piercing acidity. It is long and concentrated with very fine tannins. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 13.5%
95 GD 95 SF 95 MW 95 Wines, The Secret Cellar
With only 4ha of vines, the François family doesn’t make much CôteRôtie. In fact, its main business is making farmhouse cheeses from its herd of 30 cows. The family bottled its first wine in 1991 and has since maintained very high standards, only using grapes from three southfacing slopes rich in mica-schist soil, suitable for the 30-year-old vines. This wine has been aged for 18 months in 225-litre and 400-litre barrels. GD There is a lot of pleasure here from ripe red fruit, smooth and ripe tannins, great harmony and lovely texture. SF Charming aromas of violets and summer pudding. The palate is still dominated by oak, but fruit comes in on the finish with a saline rigour. MW Soft and enticing ripe blackberry aromas. The palate is full-bodied and rich in fruit with good depth. A touch on the extracted side, but it ends fresh and juicy with a long finish. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13.5%
78 | F e b r u a r y 2018 • D E C A N T E R