EXPERT’S CHOICE
Top-tier Prosecco
Producers have the option to label their top Prosecco with a village of origin, but are these ‘rive’ wines always a guarantee of quality? Richard Baudains finds out SINCE 2009, PRODUCERS of Prosecco di ConeglianoValdobbiadene Superiore – the top-drawer DOCG Prosecco from the hills – have had the option of declaring the village of origin of their wines with the phrase ‘Rive di’. Every village which conforms to the basic wine-growing standards of the DOCG zone (there are 43) can claim its sub-denomination. In the highly democratic division of the area devised by the producers’ consorzio, all rive appear equal, but some might be more equal than others. Are the rive always a guarantee of top quality? And do they really
reflect a special sense of place? The answer to the first question is ‘yes and no’. Producers who use the rive denomination tend to reserve it for their top label, which means that you should be getting a Prosecco made with special care and attention from their best grapes. Some of these rive wines can be spectacularly, eye-openingly good. The overall quality, however, is not particularly homogeneous: alongside wines with very distinctive personality there are others which are perfectly well made, but little more. As for terroir character, the
Andreola, Mas de Fer, Rive di Soligo Extra Dry 2016 95 £12.60 Tannico
Astoria, Casa Vittorino, Rive di Refrantolo Brut 2016 95 £11.95 Albion Wine Shippers, Gerrard Seel
Herby, floral nose; light, progressive palate with a lovely delicate airy texture and intense flavours on the finish of grapefruit peel, apple and almonds. Very refined, from high-altitude vineyards. Drink 2018-2019 Alcohol 11.5%
Almond milk on the nose. Light and elegant with super-fine bubbles on the palate. Lovely balance and a long finish of marzipan and apricot, with a hint of mineral savouriness. Very stylish. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 11.5%
La Vigna di Sarah, Rive di Cozzuolo Extra Dry 2016 95 N/A UK www.lavignadisarah.it
Roccat, Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Extra Dry 2016 95 N/A UK www.roccat.com
Spagnol, Col del Sas, Rive di Solighetto Brut 2016 95 £13.04 Tannico
Biscuity tones on the nose, followed by ripe fig and sultana, and a touch of sweet spiciness. Great volume on the palate with a long, complex finish of dried fruit and cardamom. Complex. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 11.5%
Lots of ripe fruit on the nose from a warm, dry vintage, with bitter-sweet floral aromas at the back. Peach and marzipan notes on the palate and a long, concentrated fruit finish. Delicious. Drink 2018 Alc 11.5%
Fresh citrus and apricot nose with a touch of Parma violets. Very fine bubbles, great progression on the palate and a long, crisp finish of lemon peel and salted almonds. Classic. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 11.5%
Angelo Rebuli, La Riva, Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut 2016 94 N/A UK www.rebuli.it
La Farra, Rive di Farra di Soligo Extra Dry 2016 94 £15 H2Vin
La Tordera, Tittoni, Rive di Vidor Dry 2016 94 N/A UK www.latordera.it
Subtle floral, hedgerow nose, with classic notes of wisteria and sugared almonds. Light and fruity on the palate, with finely judged balance and a fresh finish of tangerine and sweet spice. Stylish. Drink 2018 Alc 11.5%
Almond and violet aromas on the nose. Concentrated, ripe fruit palate with fresh acidity to balance the sugars and spicy complexity on the finish. Bags of personality. Drink 2018 Alc 11.5%
Ripe pear and almonds on the nose. Lovely creamy texture on the palate with a tangy vein of salted lemons and a long, dry, floral finish. Classy. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 11.5% 92 | I t a l y 2018 • D E C A N T E R
Bortolomiol, Cuvée del Fondatore Motus Vitae, Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut 2015 95 N/A UK www.bortolomiol.com Pie crust on the nose, with fennel, citrus and tropical hints. Light texture but concentrated flavours. Great example of the maturer style of Prosecco. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 11.5%