DESTINATIONS - Issue 17 - Pakistan's Premier Travel and Lifestyle Magazine by DESTINATIONS

ISSUE #17

Fahad Mustafa

For The Win

Mobeen Ansari’s Postcards from Hunza Karachi’s Urban Forest Gorakh Hill Serendipity Beyond City Limits

contents.

ISSUE #17

FAHAD MUSTAFA #FTW – Is He Pakistan’s Biggest Star?

On the cover

p.32

p. 56

MAN ON THE SCENE 32

Into

Fahad Mustafa: Is He Pakistan’s Biggest Star?

A WORLD OF GOOD 48

the

Woods

Forest Scapes - Karachi Bleeding Green?

THE FASHION FIX 56 72

Into The Woods Shehla Chatoor: Redefining Luxury

TRAVELISTA 86 128

Sarwat Gillani’s Escape To Sri Lanka How To Travel Like A Fashionista: Sara Shahid

Escape p. 86

SRI LANKA

p. 74

SERENDIPITY, Beyond City Limits

rural LAHORE RidingThrough

p. 144

NEAR & AFAR 26 28

Dream Destinations Destinations Desires

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 74 144

Serendipity, Beyond City Limits Riding Through Rural Lahore

ART SPEAKS 96 168

Imran Qureshi & Aisha Khalid: Perfection In Motion Transition Of Tradition

DESTINATIONS DIARY 102

p. 96

Imran Qureshi & Aisha Khalid

Post Cards From Hunza

WANDERER 120 134

The Quest For Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Finest How To Travel With Your Tribe: Uzbekistan

REFLECTIONS 150

Perfection in

Eat, Pray, Breathe

CULTURE TALK

Motion

156 164

p. 102

On Either Side Of The Atlantic LLF-NYC: Where Culture Trumps Politics

POSTCARDS from

Hunza

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ASMA CHISHTY MANAGING EDITOR : MARIAM MUSHTAQ EXECUTIVE EDITOR : ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH DESIGN & LAYOUT : ZOHAIB AKHTAR OBAID-UL-MOHSIN SEEMAB UL HASSAN MEDIA SALES : NAEEM ULLAH CIRCULATION INCHARGE : SHAAN ALI PUBLISHED BY : Daewoo Pakistan Express Bus Service Ltd. 231, Ferozepur Road, Kalma Chowk, Lahore, Pakistan +92.42.111.007.006 , +92.42.3583.5132 GM MARKETING & SALES (DAEWOO) : SHERIAR HASSAN DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER, MIS (DAEWOO) : AMIR MEHMOOD LEGAL ADVISOR : BASIT WAHEED WATTOO CONTACT (SALES) : +92 334 423 4681 (NAEEM ULLAH) naeem.ullah@daewoo.com.pk +92 333 488 8203 (KHAWAJA AMMAR) khawaja.ammar@daewoo.com.pk DISTRIBUTORS: NATIONAL NEWS AGENCY PRINTERS : TOPICAL PRINTERS

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contributors Fifi Haroon Fahad Mustafa Is he Pakistan’s Biggest Star? p. 32 Fifi Haroon has been a leading journalist and media producer for over 20 years. She earned degrees in politics (Bryn Mawr), law (Cambridge University) and media anthropology (SOAS, London University), the last as a Chevening Scholar. She has written extensively on travel, film and pop culture for many publications and websites including The Independent and Newsweek Pakistan. Haroon works as a senior broadcast journalist and presenter for the BBC World Service in London in both Urdu and English. She has sung with Junoon and tweets to over 63,000 followers as @fifiharoon.

Mobeen Ansari

Afia Salam

Sabyn Javeri

Postcards from Hunza p. 102

Forest Scapes – Karachi Bleeding Green p. 48

LLF-NYC: Where Culture Trumps Politics p. 164

Mobeen Ansari is a photojournalist, painter and sculptor based in Islamabad. A graduate of National College of Arts in Rawalpindi, his mission is to promote a positive and often unseen side of his country through his photographs. He has travelled across Pakistan and focuses on places off the beaten path. He has published two photography books: Dharkan: the Heartbeat of a Nation, which features portraits and stories of iconic people and unsung heroes, and White in the Flag, based on the lives and festivities of Pakistan’s religious minorities.

A freelance journalist, media development practitioner and social activist, Afia Salam is also Pakistan’s first female cricket journalist. Having worked with some of the leading media houses and advertising agencies in the country, she is now a development communications specialist and provides journalism trainings in the fields of environment, climate change, gender issues and media ethics. A visiting faculty member at IoBM, where she teaches media laws and ethics, she tweets as @afiasalam

Dr Sabyn Javeri is a Professor of Literature and Creative Writing and the author of the novel Nobody Killed Her (Harper Collins, 2017).

How to Travel like a Fashionista Sara Shahid p. 128

editors note from the

We at Destinations are deeply humbled by the overwhelming acclaim our second anniversary collector’s edition has received from all quarters. With a high fashion editorial at Sadiq Garh Palace, we are happy to put the spotlight back on the forgotten legacy of Bahawalpur. Industry insiders to regular subscribers and friends – with this note, we would like to thank you all; you inspire us to do better each time. This time our cover story features the biggest star on the Pakistani TV landscape, Fahad Mustafa – the man with the Midas touch. From drama serials to game shows and movies, everything he touches turns to entertainmentgold. Over an informal brunch conversation with leading journalist and media producer Fifi Haroon, he talks about almost everything under the sun – from life to love, his home province Sindh, fun, work, family and his upcoming two films.

As temperatures soar all across Pakistan this month, Karachi is experiencing an intense, dangerous heat wave. Three years ago, in 2015, the debilitating May heat wave claimed an estimated 1200 lives. Blaming climate change and the stripping of the green cover for this large number of lives lost, eco-entrepreneur Shahzad Qureshi was propelled to take action. Since then, he has been working on growing an urban forest in a forgotten park in Clifton. Environment activist Afia Salam pens an inspirational tale of this green revolution which aims to protect the environment one tree at a time.

ASMA CHISHTY

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

If you want to escape Karachi’s exhausting summer altogether and get away for the weekend, we recommend the nearby Gorakh Hill station. City dwellers Safinah and Danish Elahi head off to this quaint hamlet and camp out under the open skies. The cool climes, the starry night, the easy charm of the rolling hills – their short R&R is rejuvenating. Summer escapes are always welcome. Those yearning for greater heights and breathtaking views can make a trip to the magical valley of Hunza. Ace travel photographer Mobeen Ansari captures the beauty of this princely state in a series of spellbinding pictures that are sure to inspire a trip up north. But not all trips are made by road. These days, most journeys start and end at airports. The capital city of Islamabad finally gets a much-needed modern airport. Amongst its most defining features is the diverse range of artwork that lines the walls of the colossal space of this purpose-built facility, lending a glimpse into the country’s rich crafts heritage as well as the opportunity to view the work of Pakistan’s contemporary artists, many of whom are now making their mark on an international canvas. Approaching the domestic and international check-in counters, you will come across large-scale murals by internationally renowned artists Imran Qureshi and Aisha Khalid. We offer a close-up of their extraordinary works. Flip through for all this and more. Hope the images you see inspire you and the stories you read, interest you. Happy reading!

ZAHRA HIDAYATULLAH EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MARIAM MUSHTAQ MANAGING EDITOR

NEAR & AFAR

Whether you’re craving a domestic getaway or eyeing a more exotic trip abroad, we pick out the best places to help you plan your travels.

CHAPURSON VALLEY By Faheem Rao

Chapurson Valley is situated to the northwest of the Sost border post in Gilgit-Baltistan. Located within the Wakkhan Corridor, the valley is uniquely placed with its connections to Pakistan, China, Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The exceptional beauty of the area makes it a trekking paradise for nature lovers. It gives travellers a chance to experience the renowned Wakhi hospitality and culture. A combination of 8 to 10 small villages, Chapurson is famous for its purely organic lifestyle. 28

How to get there:

What to do:

The valley is located 70 kilometres from the Sost border check post on the Karakoram Highway. You can rent a 4-wheel drive jeep from Sost and drive to the valley in 5-6 hours. A public jeep facility is also available twice or thrice a day that takes you up to Zood Khun, the last village of Chapurson valley. If you are a motorbike enthusiast, it is going to be a beautiful offroad track full of adventure.

Visit the “Silk Road Rocks” at Kirmin Pass, located at the junction of Pamir and the Karakoram mountains. The Yishkuk glacier can be visited in a single day. You can enjoy swimming and fishing in the nearby lakes. The shrine of Baba Ghundi is a must-visit where you can see Dragon Lake and meet the Kyrgyz coming through the Wakkhan Corridor for trading. Pamir is a popular high pasture where wildlife, multi-coloured mountains and the lifestyle of local shepherds can be observed very closely. Ghulam Ali Pass is famous for the Red Canyon, a natural stone bridge and a spectacular view of Afghanistan. Chilinji Pass can be crossed to see the Karambar Valley and lake, which will take you from Gojal to Chitral. Other aweinspiring sights to include in your itinerary if you have the time are: Irshad Uween, Lupgar Pir Pass, Kuz Sar base camp, Dilisang Sar Peak, Mintaka Pass (border with China) and Yuksh Goz. As a gesture of greeting, the local kids kiss the hands of their parents in such an adorable way that you can never forget the sight.

Where to stay: Mr. Alam Jan Dario is a famous local musician and a horseman par excellence whose family-style guesthouse, the Pamir Serai, is the best place to stay. It is comfortable and affordable, and you are served local organic food from the kitchen. Since Chapurson valley is very safe and the locals are very hospitable, you can also enjoy riverside camping.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, is a small coastal town located on the southern tip of Croatia. One of the most prominent tourist resorts of the Mediterranean, it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. The perfectly preserved Old Town is full of breathtaking Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque palaces, churches and monasteries, while the pristine beaches and thriving art and culture scene provide plenty of opportunities for the entire family. Game of Thrones enthusiasts will be thrilled roaming around the city that has served as the main filming location for King’s Landing.

How to get there:

What to do:

A walk along the ancient city One can arrive at Dubrovnik’s walls, leisurely excursions around international airport via the pedestrian-only Old Town, Turkish Airlines or Emirates from Pakistan, with layovers in and a cable car ride up to Mount Srd for panoramic views of the Istanbul and Dubai respectively. Adriatic are must-dos. A green The journey will take between 12 to 15 hours, including transit time. oasis just a short boat hop from Dubrovnik’s Old Town, the island of Lokrum is a nature park, and a popular swimming spot among locals. Sea kayaking Housed in a former 1913 royal is a popular half-day activity villa and built to take full here. Fans of Game of Thrones advantage of a west-facing might recognize Lokrum as one view of the glorious Old Town, of the settings for the iconic the recently revamped Hotel TV series. Banje Beach is the Excelsior Dubrovnik is truly most popular of the city’s many magnificent. It has been beaches, with plenty of action in welcoming famous guests from terms of beach activities, food the start, including Queen and drink. For those wanting to Elizabeth II and Elizabeth escape the summer crowds, a Taylor. With tranquil gardens, a boat trip to the Elaphiti Islands, private beach, three restaurants with its hidden coves and sandy offering cinematic views of the beaches, provides Adriatic, an indoor swimming a welcome respite. pool, plus a glamorous spa and fitness centre, the luxury hotel provides its guests with an unforgettable stay.

Where to stay:

NEAR & AFAR Our guide to what we’re currently loving.

1 Cover Page Smart, sassy and extremely funny, comedian/actor Faiza Saleem is set to invade your living rooms and bring a dose of humour to your weekends with the launch of her own TV show, Cover Page. The magazine show is an amalgamation of entertainment updates, celebrity interviews and inside media gossip, and promises to be an extremely enjoyable watch. Cover Page will air every Saturday and Sunday at 10:30pm on Hum News.

7 By Amin Gulgee Renowned artist Amin Gulgee will be exhibiting his solo show ‘7’ at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna in Rome, curated by Paolo de Grandis and Claudio Crescentini. The massive installation is quintessential Gulgee – Islamic script in calligraphy carved out of metal and divided into seven distinct sections. The show opens May 30th and will continue till September.

Karachi Kitchen Karachi Kitchen takes you back to an era of simple, clean cooking. Using high quality ingredients and traditional cooking techniques, this deliveryonly set up creates beautiful dishes reminiscent of the generational family kitchen. Call+9251 - 840 3030 to place your orders.

4 The Amanqi Edit’s Eid Showroom A digital platform dedicated to curating the finest of fashion, beauty and culture, The Amanqi Edit will be launching a pop-up Eid store at Culinary Boutique, Jumeirah, Dubai from June 7-9. The exhibition will provide a luxe retail experience, featuring exciting brands such as Instagram sensation Prezioso By Diyana and jewellery extraordinaire Roma Narsinghani as well as the Dubai-based Shoug, Satami, The Cap Project and Czar.

Marcel’s Inspired by the fictional Marcel la Roux’s continuing journey of gastronomic inspirations from around the world, Marcel’s is a boulangerie, patisserie and bistro as well as the newest sensation on Karachi’s ever-expanding food scene. Specializing in freshly-baked croissants, over a dozen types of breads baked fresh three times a day, éclairs and macaroons, the Marcel kitchen presents a taste of Paris in Karachi. 31

MAN ON THE SCENE

FAHAD MUSTAFA #FTW â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Is He Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Biggest Star? By Fifi Haroon

Fahad Mustafa is not big on giving interviews. Inarguably the biggest star on the Pakistani TV landscape, the man with the Midas touch likes to keep to himself and let his work do the talking. Here he makes an exception as he talks his heart out with leading journalist and media producer Fifi Haroon over an informal brunch conversation on a variety of topics including love, life, work and his upcoming films. Photography: Abdullah Haris

MAN ON THE SCENE

ood Morning,” says the wake-up whatsapp text. “Meet you at 11,” says the second reminder.

On the other end is perhaps the most beloved star in the country. Punctuality is not quite what you expect of a man this famous, and one who reportedly doesn’t travel on film shoots without his entourage in tow. But when we meet up for this interview Fahad Mustafa is astonishingly 5 minutes early and waiting for me in a quiet corner of the café he suggested for brunch. At 34, Fahad Mustafa’s popularity has gone through the roof. The girls may swoon longer over Fawad Khan, Mahira Khan may be the fashionista’s dream queen but “Fadi” as he is more affectionately called by his massive fan following on Instagram and Twitter is the ordinary man’s favourite. Or “phat-phatti” hero as I like to call him. Motorbikes are his thing. He gives them away in dozens on the highly rated game show, Jeeto Pakistan, and rides in on them, hair flying back in the breeze, for most of his films, from Na Maloom Afraad to Actor in Law. More recently he has been seen speeding around dirt tracks in Clifton on a Harley with actors Mohib Mirza, Faysal Qureishi and a motley crew of bikers. Perfect Instagram material, except Mustafa is not quite as social media friendly as his Jawani Phir Nahi Aani 2 co-star Mawra Hocane, a veritable Insta princess. “I try my best. I’m at the petrol pump and on Twitter at the same time. But to be honest sometimes I can get pretty fed up of the whole thing.” “But I like being called a phat-phatti hero,” Mustafa counters, laughing. “I am happier on a motorbike than in some fancy car. And when it comes to a fourwheel drive I don’t have a chauffeur or anything. I drive my own Jeep.” For now it is parked outside the café in Karachi’s new culinary hotspot, Khayabane-Bukhari. Inside, the interview is an excuse for him to break his often-rigid diet regime for a generous helping of French toast and a strong cup of black coffee. He salvages his guilty conscience by ordering the same for me. You can see that the diet works. There isn’t an extra ounce on what looks to be a naturally lean body, though Mustafa famously worked out several hours a day with his personal trainer while filming JPNA 2 in Istanbul to keep it that way. But the actor insists that at heart and in stomach he is in reality a food junkie. “I am a fat man on the inside,” he confesses guiltily. If I could eat everything I want I would be gigantic.”

A media Goliath nonetheless (his television production house Big Bang Productions has produced over 50 drama serials in the last four years) Mustafa looms large on the Pakistani entertainment landscape. Later this year, he will feature in both the mega-films to be released on Eid-ul-Azha: Nadeem Baig’s crowded multi-starrer JPNA 2 and Nabeel Qureishi and Fizza Meerza’s ingeniously titled Load Wedding, where he has been recast with his “favourite” heroine Mehwish Hayat. Their previous film Actor in Law (2016), also directed by Qureishi, was a blockbuster so the dream team has a lot to live up to. Equally, with Punjab Nahin Jaungi (2017) becoming the first Pakistani film to make it to the Rs.100 crore club, director Nadeem Baig now needs to do one even better. He’s replaced the troublesome Hamza Ali Abbasi with the biggest hitter in he business; the man who is to Pakistani films what Shahid Afridi was to Pakistani cricket in his heyday. Except – a lot more consistent. With three successful films under his belt (all three with Nabeel Qureishi at the helm) Mustafa is a cinematic Midas. Come September, we will have the opportunity to gauge whether everything he touches still turns into gold. And yet, films for Fahad Mustafa are more play than work. He does them because he “enjoys” the process. “Films is my shauq. Ask Fizza and Nabeel. Till today I’ve never talked money to them because frankly films is not how I make my money.” Mustafa comes from acting stock: father Salahuddin Tunio earned respect and awards working in Sindhi and Urdu plays but of course never picked up the massive advertising campaigns and endorsement deals from Pepsi to Harpic that his son has aplenty. These days Mustafa is trying to get to know his own two-year-old son Moosa better. “I’ve been doing back-to-back projects and feel I’m missing out on his growing years,” he admits woefully. Though his directors praise his work ethic, Mustafa calls himself lazy and says he would sleep all day if he could. On another level he is a family man who likes to travel with his wife Sana and kids, Fatima and Moosa; cute pictures of these excursions dot the internet and are avidly lapped up by his massive fan following. Mustafa remains sceptical about social media and suspicious of journalists. “I’m never quite sure of what they really want from me,” he says warily. Yet we have unpredictably struck up a friendship consisting largely of Twitter banter and discursive interviews over the last two years. And so our brunch lasts over two hours even though he is shooting for Jeeto Pakistan that day and interviews on Thursdays are usually a no-no. It’s a nightmare edit. Mustafa is opinionated and cuttingly honest. What does one leave out? Maybe I’ll throw what’s left on the editing floor into my memoirs. For now, here is a glimpse into what Fahad Mustafa loves – and hates... 37

MAN ON THE SCENE

You’ve just finished work on two very big films. What next Fahad? Chutti! (Much laughter). I’m tired. I want to retire. I was nineteen when I started my career. It’s been a long stretch. Come on Fahad, you’re far too young to retire. Plus you look younger than most of your heroines. That’s another story! I work with people who take all the tension for me. So that’s how I can look a few years less than I actually am. Be it the fake lawyer in Actor in Law or even the scheming out-of-work Farhan in the two Na Maloom Afraad films, the heroes you play retain a certain innocence. Circumstances may make them do certain things that are illegal or on the face of it, unethical but essentially they are very likeable.

I’ve already taken Mehwish Hayat there many times now! When you’re shooting in the middle of nowhere for a 40-day stretch you need the khaeth for more practical things. Who are you friends with amongst your heroines? Definitely Mehwish. I’m very good friends with Mawra too. We had done a play together before JPNA 2 so we’ve known each other a while. What I really like about Mehwish in particular is she’s not in any race. I don’t like those co-stars who are always competing. Yet there was this whole controversy recently concerning Mehwish and Mahira when the latter won the Lux Style award for Best Actress. I think it was a travesty she didn’t get the award. Punjab Nahin Jaoungi was the biggest hit in the country and Mehwish was amazing. Actually she was brilliant in Actor in Law too. She is a very intelligent actor; knows when to hold back in a scene and when to let go. She gives such balanced performances. Mehwish is the whole package.

I’m not the kind to have affairs. In fact I’m the type who would marry the woman instead.

We wanted the characters to be relatable to the common man. So while the men I play make mistakes, they are not evil. They are essentially good guys who are living in tough times and have to hustle a bit to get by. Even in Na Maloom Afraad 2, which some people said is not a family film, you could see that the characters were never “do numberi” types. The audience sees the characters I play as one of them. An average guy just doing his best. Like them, my character messes up sometimes or takes a slightly dodgy route to success but he has a heart of gold.

What’s it like romancing Mehwish Hayat in films?

There’s this ease working with her. Though there wasn’t that much romance in Actor in Law. Load Wedding is full of romance – it will surprise people.

What about real-life romance?

You’re forgetting Mah-e-Meer though. That was a huge departure. And now Jawani Phir Nahin Aani 2 isn’t following that pattern either. To be honest Fifi, these are the kind of issues you and I sit and discuss when we’re talking about craft. The common man will never bring it up. He just wants to see a good film.

My romance is funny. I can’t do that very deep romantic stuff.

But he too must have noticed you always play the quintessential Karachi guy. It’s not like we ever see you dancing around in the fields.

I do. But if you’re asking if I will or not, how can I predict that? This much I know, that I’m not the kind to have affairs. In fact I’m the type who would marry the woman instead.

Actually in Load Wedding that’s exactly what we do – there’s a song and dance in a khaeth! What? Now I’m thinking of that naughty Madhuri Dixit song “Chanay ke Khaeth May.” Actually since we’re talking about it, who would you take to a khaeth?

Yet showbiz is full of temptations. How do you keep on the straight and narrow path – or should I ask if you do?

I’m not sure your wife would be too happy with that answer! Let’s move on to your last film. I remember watching NMA2 with you at the London première. I didn’t leave the theatre with Fahad Mustafa in my head. It wasn’t your film. Did you know that was going to happen? 39

MAN ON THE SCENE

I knew it. But see when you’re part of a franchise you go with it. I didn’t want anyone to say that oh Fahad got someone’s role cut to make his part more prominent. Not once did I go on the set and say to Nabeel that look this isn’t fair or I’m not really being given the chance to shine. So you never said, ‘Nabeel you haven’t done me justice.’ I didn’t have to – other people said it to him. In fact even in the second half of Actor in Law it became Om Puri’s story. But see you don’t take an actor of Om Puri’s calibre and then not let him lead at some point. It was meant to be. Big stars like to control films. I’ve heard that Shahrukh Khan controls everything from the film’s soundtrack to what his heroine should wear. Well then maybe that’s why his films aren’t what they used to be. When stars want to do everything it doesn’t work. Shaan bhai made Arth, which was just his film, his creation. You’ve seen how that turned out. You can no longer work without input and advice. You have to listen to others. If you take my directors away from me I wouldn’t be who I am today. I present the biggest show in the country, Jeeto Pakistan, but if you take my team away I won’t be able to do it. What kind of films work in Pakistan?

People didn’t rush to see Salman Khan in Tubelight but they love him in thrillers like Tiger Zinda Hai. Maybe people want to see Shaan in action movies rather than Arth. Pakistanis place a lot of importance on how people speak. So when someone goes Fawad doesn’t know how to act, Mahira shouldn’t have done that film, I will teach Saba how to act, Mawra shouldn’t have taken on that role, Sajal shouldn’t go there, Fawad has the face, Fahad has glasses – clearly, he has enough free time on his hands to notice my glasses. People are put off by that. I know I am. And I was a fan of Shaan’s.

I became a star in Pakistan because of TV not films.

First we have to figure out who we make films for. Who is this person who buys tickets to go see a film in our cinemas? If you don’t have the answer to that, your film will flop. People may have gone to the cinemas in the early days of the revival to support Pakistani cinema but now they have said enough – the film has to be worth it. Look what happened with a few big films at the end of the year which supposedly had superstars in the cast. If they are such big superstars their films should at least have a good opening. But they didn’t because they were on their own trip. If they weren’t even able to make 6 to 8 crore then us television actors are better because at least people come to watch our films. So yeah, first figure out what makes people come to the cinema and spend their money. Take PNJ for instance. What was that unique about it? It was a simple story well told and that’s why 42

people enjoyed it. But no, people are hell bent on making issue-oriented films. Television has already cornered that market. Every issue in Pakistan is explored in our drama serials and people are seeing it for free on our channels. If a man is able to afford just one film ticket per month he is not going to see a depressive film. He is not even going to see the superstar. He will go see a film like Bajrangi Bhaijaan.

How come you don’t do war films – pretty much every actor in Pakistan seems to have done one of those. I love my country but I don’t have to do patriotic films to prove it.

You’ve said more than one that you are one of the few Pakistani actors who has made it to superstar status without having gone to India. Your success is totally rooted in Pakistani TV and cinema.

I have nothing against India. But I am interested in developing Pakistani talent. You can’t progress unless you identify your own talent. I became a star in Pakistan because of TV not films. I was working on TV for ten years but no one was watching. Then Jeeto Pakistan catapulted me into the big time. Why is it that so many television dramas preach a middle-class morality to our audiences? Why are career women portrayed as maneaters and psychologically disturbed, hell bent on stealing someone else’s man? These women don’t exist in my experience or home. They don’t even exist in my village. I’ve been all over interior Sindh and Punjab and I didn’t see them there either. The women I know are empowered women who run their businesses and who run their homes too. But that doesn’t mean that women are the same

everywhere. There are women who may not think that deeply, who may not have ambitions. So should I kill off that woman because the women I know are different? Why? That woman watches my dramas too. See, it’s a business. We have to cater to her too. She is part of my audience. Isn’t that being a hypocrite though Fahad? Oh totally. I think we would be lying if we said we weren’t. Don’t you think we should stop being hypocrites then? Even when you look at the most talented actors in this country, we aren’t able to do what we really want to. Half the time we are worried, what will Fifi say, what will some other critic say? What will the people I socialize with say? And with all this worry we forget why we became actors. We chose this profession because it’s what we liked doing. It started off as a choice. And that’s what it always should be about. So who makes the choices now in your career?

recently called Aisi Hai Tanhai. For two years before that she was sitting at home but the minute she did that serial everyone was talking just about Sonya. Ghazi will come and go and no one will even remember it. What do you think your initial draw is? How saleable are you at the box office? I can’t say whether I had any real pull before. But now yes. People come to see a film for me. When the first NMA came out, it wasn’t a success because of me. At that time there was this pro-Pakistan sentiment that let’s support this Pakistani film. And it looked good so it was a win-win. Now I want to tell people to see my film only if it is a good film. Don’t see if it because of any patriotic sentiment. And if it’s not a good film please for God’s sake don’t buy that ticket. I am not a beggar and I’m not saying please support me, I’m a Pakistani actor or I need the money and my kids are crying so please watch my film. I’ve often heard directors say look at how much we go through to make a film in Pakistan. Arrey bhai then don’t make it. Films should be about passion and shauq. If it’s not there, don’t do it!

I have always done what I want and people have always warned me not to do it.

Let me tell you what it’s now become. And I know what I am about to say will sound strange. The poor actress who lives in the buffer zone will come on the set and say to me that four people she met last night told her what the ending of the serial should be. And even though she knows that will severely limit the scope of her role and leave her little margin for acting, she feels maybe that’s what people want.

You’ve also said to me before that television drama is a woman’s medium in Pakistan. That male stars have a very limited role to play. Of course. If you stop oppressing women, there will be no drama serials in Pakistan. But you have a huge production company, why don’t you make drama serials that tell a different story? First of all, the majority of our viewing audience for films is the complete opposite of that for TV dramas. More men go to the movies, the TV audience is largely women. My television audience is the whole of Pakistan, and only an iota of that audience watches films. Growing up on Bollywood we think that film is the biggest medium. That’s simply not true for Pakistan. Sonya Hussain’s film Ghazi is going to be released soon. But ask her – she did a drama serial

Those people whose work is their passion are very lucky. Thousands go to work every day because they have to, doing work they hate.

Fifi I have always done what I want and people have always warned me not to do it. Be it modelling, or drama serials or whatever. When I did a morning show everyone said oh your career will be ruined. The opposite happened. When I did commercials they said oh just do Coke or Pepsi but don’t do Harpic. Arrey, why not? If people are willing to have me on board for their brand why should I say no? Why should I stop at Pepsi? Does my father have shares in it? Then with Jeeto Pakistan they sneered and said you’re going to do a game show? How down market. Funny how that turned out. Now I’m doing a film with my own company’s competition – Humayun and Six Sigma’s film Jawani Phir Nahin Aani 2. So people are saying oh you will be the second lead in JPNA 2. Look, whether I am second lead or fifth lead they are spending money to bring me on board, aren’t they? So they will make sure my role is worth the spend. Does Fahad Mustafa pay heed to what anyone says? 43

MAN ON THE SCENE

On location for Load Wedding in Daska, Punjab Shot exclusively for DESTINATIONS

MAN ON THE SCENE

To be honest, no. I don’t listen to anyone. I just roll with it. I do what I want and it works. Today I have so much love from people even though I’ve done everything my way. Agar mera dimaag kharab hona hota na there is no time better than this for it. What I’ve seen and experienced as an entertainer doesn’t happen that often in Pakistan. But luckily I’ve got people like Sheikh sahab (Javed Sheikh) as role models so I know better than to get big-headed. Every kid in Pakistan knows him but he is the humblest man I’ve met. And yet he’s been placed plum in the middle of that Lux Style Award controversy about trying to kiss Mahira Khan. Unbelievable isn’t it? Some journalists have nothing else to do with their time except churn out useless stories. Fahad Mustafa woke up on the this side of the bed today – time to post a story. If Shekih sahab loves me it’s for a reason – we are like-minded people. I know he misses me when we don’t meet for a long time. Work is what motivates both of us. We shut up and get on with it.

Ok – there you go. So you DO spend money on fun stuff! But my home is simple. Me and my wife don’t like the whole starry lifestyle. Tell me do you have big pictures of yourself all over your home? Stars like to do that. Haha no I don’t. Fifi I’m not in this field for that. I’m not here because I like being a celebrity, I’m here because I actually love the work. This is why I won’t model for all these fashion shows for example where people put their make up for what they call a charitable cause. For some people the activity of being a celebrity is what has become their actual profession. I’ve been seeing a lot of pictures of you recently on Instagram on mean looking Harleys. I think Mohib Mirza was also in these pictures. You are all Harley owners. What’s all this male bonding about?

It’s just a group of guys who have gotten together to ride bikes. I’ve been working really hard of late with two films and Jeeto Pakistan. So riding my You’ve said yourself to me in the past that you’re a badtameez person but when it comes to senior actors bike is my escape, it’s shugal. It’s not like Mohib and I are really close or anything, we just ride together in the industry you’re really respectful. How come? all of us – Faysal Qureshi, Aijazz Aslam and also Shehzad Sheikh who is a really good friend of mine. I guess it depends on who you’re dealing with. Trust The longest ride I’ve been on is about 200 km. We me, it’s the seniors who are so down to earth and go to places like Hyderabad and Nawabshah. The cooperative. I have a massive production house with eventual plan is to travel all over Pakistan but I so many senior artists working with us. There’s never don’t know how I am going to manage to get that an issue with any of them. They will always be the most punctual people on set. But then there are these much time off. new actors who will arrive on set and the first thing I know that you are Sindhi yourself, so when you go they will do is speak in English to a poor spot boy who’s never even been to school. One drama old and for these excursions do you connect again with the they will pretend they don’t recognise me. That too on land? MY production’s set. I’m the one signing your cheques It’s not the same any more; it’s not the land I grew for God’s sake! up in. Now when we travel into Sindh there is If there is one thing you want for your daughter what nothing there but sadness. The culture, the music, it’s just in the hand of a few channels. But there’s would it be? nothing left to show any more. So what they are peddling as culture is all a lie. I want her to be real. I don’t want her to feel she’s a star’s daughter. I don’t want her to get used to luxury. So you remember Sindh differently? Today we have the money, tomorrow if we don’t, I don’t want her to miss it. So we don’t have guards, I We are very literary as a people. Sindhis used to be drive my own car. I try to keep it real. intellectual and well-read. When I go to the Punjab What do you spend on for fun? What’s our weakness? I see children studying in good schools, I see a focus on education. I’ve visited those schools – they are so well maintained. But in Sindh now there is I buy a lot of property. such a dearth of schools. When children don’t even have water to drink, how can life be anything but Fahad, that’s not fun that’s investment. depressing? Money is important because it gives me time. I go late to office or bunk it altogether. I just roam around I won’t ask you if you would make a film because that’s too standard a question but would you ever aimlessly. make a documentary? What about your Harley? That must have cost. Yes I would. And it would be about the people of Sindh. That – and I bought a Porsche. 46

It’s incredibly sad what you are saying. Let’s move on – what makes you smile? My kids. We are keeping my son away from social media. With my daughter it’s too late. We posted so much about her that now everyone feels she is a part of their family. (Shows me a picture of his son, who is two and a half) Oh my God, he’s going to grow up and break hearts! Yeah he’s a looker! Talking about looks, you are on this perpetual high protein diet and fitness regime and I know because you tweet about it! There was a time when actors like Dilip Kumar carried their weight with pride, but now it seems every hero has to have a six-pack. (Sighs) That was such a good time. You could have a stomach and cover it with bulky sweaters. But you can’t do that because nowadays you have to take your shirt off Salman Khan style in films! See this is the problem. If I am playing the role of a poet who is starving, how can you expect him to have perfect abs? But now every hero has to have that toned look; he isn’t allowed to fit into his character. The kind of characters I play don’t suddenly take their shirt off and pose for the camera. But there is this expectation that heroes look a certain way. Like I get white hair in my beard but that’s considered a no-no. Would you believe that when I’m in London I actually put white streaks in my hair because I like that kind of look? I can’t do that here. If Fahad Mustafa was not in films, would he be a fat guy? I AM a fat guy on the inside. I am starving! Allah ne paisa diya rizk cheen liya. I am a faaqa zada man who loves to eat. My wife is a great cook but I’ve taken that away from her because who can she cook for? My daughter eats everything I pine for. She loves nihari and all this desi food that I wish I could eat every day.

Riding my bike is my escape.. the longest ride I’ve been on is about 200 km. We go to places like Hyderabad and Nawabshah. The eventual plan is to travel all over Pakistan but I don’t know how I am going to manage to get that much time off.

If you could eat just one thing your whole life what would it be? Potatoes. I can eat potatoes all my life in any shape or form. Or biryani. God I can’t tell you how much I love biryani! There’s this film with Matt Damon where he gets stuck on Mars and he grows potatoes and that’s all he eats every day. Yeah I’d be a very happy man on Mars.

MAN ON THE SCENE

Behindthe

Scenes 48

A WORLD OF GOOD

FOREST scapes-

Karachi ?

bleeding green

By Afia Salam

Environment activist Afia Salam visits Karachiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first urban forest and talks to Shahzad Qureshi, the ecoentrepreneur who planted the seeds for this revolutionary conservation technique in Pakistan. 50

A WORLD OF GOOD

ow many city slickers have experienced a forest? The quiet hum, the fragrant breeze wafting through the herbs and shrubs, the leaves of trees pungent with their fruits? The sudden drop in the temperature as you step into the shade of a tree, the buzz of the bugs and the chirping of different birds?

The lopsided development paradigm, where construction is leaving little space for breathing and much else, is a concern that requires immediate attention. The expansive built area and building materials are both contributing to alarmingly high temperatures.

Albeit Qureshi’s tech start-up makes him a citizen of quite another type of landscape (the virtual realm), it is his other business, a spa, that has kept him rooted firmly to solid ground, through his search for nature-based solutions. When Karachi was hit by The way cities grow out, gobbling up green patches the debilitating heat wave three years ago, some in the name of development, chances are that there smart people started looking at the reasons, and may be an entire generation that has grown up without possible solutions to avoid such an eventuality experiencing any of the above mentioned bounties. again. Although that calamity had a natural cause of air pressure and rise in temperature, there was But then it is not just the city dwellers. Even our rural consensus that the stripping of the green cover was areas have been stripped of the thicket of trees to the other contributing factor. make more and more land available for cultivation, and the disastrous agro-forestry policy is a whole The shrinking area of existing parks, the different can of worms. disappearance of space allocated for new ones, and the development of ‘showcase’ parks with large Here we want to talk about some other kind of worms, grassy tracts sans trees, with bushes trimmed into which are thriving in a patch of Karachi that was once shapes of bunny rabbits and dinosaurs, was hardly designated as a park by the municipality, but had over going to take the heat off Karachi-ites. time been turned into a garbage dump. These worms are now jostling for space with other bugs and insects While Qureshi was convinced that fighting the that have found a happy new home in the mulch and vagaries of nature was certainly beyond him, he natural environment of an ‘urban forest’ started by one believed that at least a wrong done by some humans concerned citizen, Shahzad Qureshi. could be righted by others. During this quest, he happened to come across a video of conservationist While the terms ‘urban’ and ‘forest’ lumped together and eco-entrepreneur Shubendu Sharma, who had may read like an oxymoron, it was an idea that grown a forest in his own backyard by adopting the was born out of necessity and a strong belief in the award-winning Miyawaki method of restoration of greater good. Qureshi is quick to credit the inglorious natural vegetation on degraded land. They got in personification of the city’s growing problems, touch and he invited Sharma to Pakistan to help him primarily in the context of climate change, as the ‘chief replicate the technique. architects’ of this solution.

Shubendu Sharma and Shahzad Qureshi

Sharma obviously needed a space in which to start a forest, and Qureshi’s flurry of activity ensured that his neighbouring counterpart’s visit would not be in vain. His start-up experience meant that he had the ability to go from concept to reality, and to do whatever was needed, in this case by making the municipality give him permission to ‘adopt’ the park-which-was-adump. He then rallied around friends and well wishers, who not only dug into their pockets, but also vested their time and commitment into getting the park cleaned off, the garbage disposed properly, and making a space ready for Sharma to come and start the forest; all with friends, and their young ones in tow.

More and more people, at individual, family and corporate level, are getting involved. People have been asking on different forums to be introduced to Qureshi so they can offer assistance. There are people who are offering him their unused pieces of land within the city, as well as on its outskirts so the initiative can be replicated. Children who were part of the original plantation drive to set up the forest are now coming back to visit, demanding to see ‘their’ tree and more and more children are accompanying their parents to make donations for trees as well as planting them. One environmentally conscious mother also plans on suggesting tree-saplings to be a part of birthday goodie bags or gathering children to have birthday parties themed around actual tree plantation.

This is the only way to make rapid conversion possible from enabling earth-destroying habits to pursuing earthrestoring habits.”

Since then, Sharma has visited Pakistan both in actuality and virtually, inspiring audiences and starting off patches in Lahore and Islamabad. But it is the ‘proof of concept’ in Karachi that is growing and thriving and gaining traction through word of mouth and amplification by the media.

Already, a school near the park has its own very healthy patch of a ‘forest’ growing within its premises, also initiated by Qureshi, who now has big plans and dreams to maximize the benefit of the space he has adopted. He has had to allay the looming fear of the residents of this water-starved city that his forest would be taking their share of that precious, essential commodity. 53

A WORLD OF GOOD

For those unaware, it may help to know that his trees and plants are being fed by the brown water treated through reed bed plantation of ‘kaina’ a flowering plant that looks like a banana plant but has bright orange flowers. These have been planted over the sewage drain, and this method of bioremediation oxygenates the water, treats it and makes it useful for his plants, all 33 varieties of which are indigenous.

2016

When you meet Qureshi, he is like an excited parent talking ceaselessly about his amazing offspring, and making plans for the future. He delights in seeing the ‘babies’ thriving and wishes to provide them a better enabling environment by seeking more and more resources for them to thrive in. And he is planning big! The forest is in a circular match in the middle of the park. He is aiming for a butterfly park, an aviary, and a wetland, the beginnings of which can already be seen, in the area where the water is stored after piping it from the drain where it is treated biologically through the resplendent glory of flame-coloured ‘kaina’. Of course, he has been advised by friends to eat this elephant bit by bit. There are unfortunately not many takers yet to take the entire project on, which is surprising because if one compares his estimates in terms of the education and recreational value of what he is trying to set up, the cost benefit analysis would definitely weigh them in the park’s favour. He has since been advised to make the offering modular, so he does not have to chase after one big sponsor but can allow many to have a buy-in, literally, into the process. Qureshi has been busy promoting the urban forest, spending a considerable amount of time away from his core business to show it to whoever wants to see it. However, since it is not possible to clone either Qureshi or Sharma, we must find other concerned citizens whose imagination they can stoke to promote as many patches of green as there can be in the city, whether on a voluntary basis or through any other workable solution. His ‘solution’ has raised eyebrows too. It has been argued that many of the local plants he has identified and recommended for future urban forests are available at various commercial nurseries at a fraction of the cost Shahzad quotes. Then why is he quoting sums that fall just short of four figures for the same plant, one may ask! It must be said that there is no wrong-doing. His math on this is quite simple. He says the amount he tags on each sapling is inclusive of the cost of the plant, and its watering, manure and nurturing by a qualified gardener for a 3-year period. The other concern people have is that Shahzad Qureshi’s company “Urban Forest” is a commercial enterprise. So why should they ‘donate’ to an entity based on profit?

2018 55

A WORLD OF GOOD

The Final Goal For The Urban Forest

This little patch of green which was lovingly planted and has been carefully nurtured serves as an inspiring example, clamouring for replication. Qureshi is ever willing to share tips on how to go about “forestscaping”. So head out to your local hardware store, buy some gardening tools and get started already. It’s time to heal the world. 56

The successful start-up man Qureshi has a clear answer, “This adopted park is a Corporate Social Responsibility project of our commercial business. We invested all our money into it to get the pilot going, and now we are raising funds to scale it up. The company offers consulting and turnkey project solutions to our clients who wish to create forests anywhere from their houses to factories and offices, schools, colleges, parks, open spaces, farm houses. Being a profit-based company pays for our time and manages to sustain our efforts in a line of business that benefits the environment and the people – whether directly or indirectly. As for our adopted park, I strongly believe that we need to encourage, seed, fund, and subsidize eco businesses and make them so profitable that a vast majority of people would switch their professions and get into creating solutions for saving water, cleaning air, recycling all material, growing chemical-free food and green energy.

This is the only way to make rapid conversion possible from enabling earth-destroying habits to pursuing earth-restoring habits.” For starters, let us get the word around. The more people talk about it, the more interested they are, and the sooner action would follow. There are no “quick fixes” here. And if you can’t come forward for tree plantation activities, then donate and watch the grass (or in this case, the tree) grow. In a little over two years, some trees have already attained a height of over 10 feet, which is living proof of the fact that if nature is not interfered with, it has the capacity to heal itself. This little patch of green which was lovingly planted and has been carefully nurtured serves as an inspiring example, clamouring for replication. Qureshi is ever willing to share tips on how to go about “forestscaping”. So head out to your local hardware store, buy some gardening tools and get started already. It’s time to heal the world. 57

THE FASHION FIX

Into

the

Woods

Luxury couturier Shehla Chatoorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest collection Nur-e-Alaleh is an ethereal conception of dazzling, head-turning bridals that pay homage to timeless elegance and extravagant detailing. The cool dreamy colour palette makes it the perfect choice for a glamorous summer destination wedding.

Photography: Art Direction: Hair & Makeup: Jewellery: Models:

Stopstyle Hashim Ali Nabila Chhotanis Sadaf Kanwal, Zara Abid, Aimal Khan, Fahmeen Ansari, Mushk Kaleem, Rubab Ali and Munsif Ali Khan 59

THE FASHION FIX

Behindthe

Scenes

THE FASHION FIX

Shehla Chatoor:

Redefining Luxury

er couture collections garner rave reviews for their opulence and effortless glamour; her exquisite luxury pret is favoured by the country’s top divas for red carpet appearances; while her lawn, which translates her luxurious aesthetic into affordable pieces, consistently sells out. Shehla Chatoor exudes an edgy sophistication not just in her personal style but also in her design philosophy. A business graduate from the University of Houston, the Karachi resident formally introduced her eponymous label in 1995 and has since established herself as one of the country’s leading couturiers. In an exclusive conversation with DESTINATIONS, she talks about her journey, her inspirations and her latest bridal collection.

A business graduate turning her eye towards fashion – how did that move come about? Tell us about your journey to becoming one of the most coveted luxury labels in the country. While it may seem like an unconventional choice for a business graduate, my interest in design was not one that was sparked later in life. It was one that has always been an innate part of me. Some of my earliest and fondest memories are designing my clothes for special occasions. I drove my darzi mad trying to achieve the look I wanted! I would definitely say that when I stepped into this business, it was at a very humble scale. I never imagined that it would grow to this scale nor did I intend for it to. This journey has been one of a lot of love, passion, hard work and luck for me. However, business school has definitely allowed me to understand key skills when it comes to brand creation, which has been an integral part of this journey for me. What or who has been a source of inspiration to you over the years? My inspiration has shifted throughout the years depending on my personal experiences related to travel, seasons, particular trends that I’m following etc. However, core elements of my design palette have always been strong influences from flora and fauna, such as peacocks, butterflies and florals. I also like to play with silhouette and materials in my attempt to create a piece that is unconventional yet fitting, for example leather ghararas or structured embellishments such as wings or 3-D butterflies and flowers.

As someone who’s been an integral part of the fashion fraternity for two decades now, how do you feel the industry has evolved over the years? I started my brand over two decades ago and since then the industry has come a long way. Back in the day, there was no concept of fashion weeks or media campaigns – fashion was very restricted to a handful of clients. I appreciate the steps taken by fashion councils in creating platforms to encourage talent. I also like the fact that there is less brand saturation and more consumer choice, especially since there is a very distinct high street, ready-towear market which didn’t exist two decades ago. I think the biggest change in the industry is the growing role of digital and print media, which has been the fundamental factor in allowing brands to create their own distinct identities and has made high-end fashion accessible to mass audiences all over the world. Tell us about your latest collection Nur-e-Alaleh. What sort of a woman do you envision wearing it on her wedding day? Keeping in mind that a Shehla bride is modern, elegant and someone who’s particular about intricately luxe details; desires effortless glamour and yearns to make an enduring impression, juxtaposing timeless elegance with contemporary romance and femininity in her bridal choice, I designed Nur-e-Alaleh specifically in a manner that’s ideal for both a cool, relaxed destination wedding to Marbella, the Maldives or Santorini or to a traditional and majestic family affair. Your aesthetic is defined as luxe glamour; is that a quality that you embody in your personal life and style as well? Well “luxe glamour” is not the most fitting style when you are working in the sweltering heat in a workshop for up to 5 hours a day! I would say my everyday style is very basic – dominated by sportswear. But when I dress up, it’s oozing glamour all the way. I enjoy wearing rich materials and innovative structures – smoky eyes are my go-to! I also believe that glamour comes from within – it is key to be strong in your beliefs, bold in your decisions and remain sophisticated. I always try to embody these characteristics in my personal style. Lastly, what is your favourite travel destination and why? Italy – there’s so much history and culture; I am left in awe each time I visit. What is special for me is that despite being part of one country, there are so many clear differences in each city, especially between the north and the south, which makes it interesting to explore. The amazing food and weather are an added bonus! 75

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

SERENDIPITY, Beyond City Limits By Safinah Danish Elahi

City-dwellers Safinah and Danish Elahi head out to Gorakh Hill â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and are awe-struck by its charming beauty and warm hospitality. Roughly 7 hours away from the mega-city of Karachi, this lesser known hill station in Sindh offers cool respite from the hot temperatures of the urban center.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

e are pure Karachi-ites. But we love to travel. We want to get up and go at every opportunity we get. And where can one possibly go that is only a drive away from here, some scenic spot in Sindh? Where it is a heavenly 18 degrees Celsius while the rest of the province melts in 42 degrees Celsius. Sounds too good to be true, doesn’t it? Well guess what, it isn’t! Gorakh Hill falls under the district of Dadu, and is situated at an altitude of approximately 5,700 feet. Its area is spread over 2,500 acres of land. One would be surprised at the elevation and landscape of the place, which is in stark contrast to Sindh’s otherwise flat, desert-like topography. When we were planning for the trip, Google Maps said it was a seven-hour drive from Karachi. We got some friends on board so we could laugh and chat along the way. Nothing like making memories with the people you most enjoy your time with!

The only catch was, the friend travelling with us was seven months pregnant, and our research told us that the uphill drive from Sehwan Sharif was going to be a bumpy one. We conveniently let that fact slide, and hoped for the best! Hiring a 15-seater Hiace van, we left our urban lives, seated comfortably (actually lying flat down, as each of us got a row to ourselves), departing from our house at 3am. With enough snacks to last us a week, and two pillows per person for comfort, we headed off towards the end of the city. All of us slept for a couple of hours and woke up to see light. In a few hours it started to get warmer but we were hoping to make it in time; the journey was longer than we expected. When we finally reached Sehwan, we stopped for lunch at Sehwan Divine (don’t judge by the name, the food was actually delicious!). After helping ourselves to a hearty meal, we headed over to Sehwan Sharif mazaar (shrine), a half hour detour but a must visit.

The mazaar is beautifully built and lit up at night. The needy, the poor, those in search of a miracle, all come here from far and wide to sing along to the chanting that echoes off the walls of the shrine. The energy one feels is almost palpable, and the experience is nothing short of surreal. One has the option to feed a daig (pot of rice served as a communal meal) to the locals. Back on the road, we stopped by the wayside for a toilet break and some cold water. We were now to switch to an SUV since we had to drive uphill. This was a bit challenging since my friend who was expecting would really have to stay put. With fingers crossed, we began the tough leg of the journey upwards. The higher we drove, the lower the temperature dropped and our singing became more and more off-key. After a two and a half hour drive up, we finally reached our motel. To tell you the truth, we were not expecting much, and were just happy to be there. We were guided to our rooms, where my friend took a quick nap and I, a shower, and headed down to a cafeteria for chai and snacks. It was pretty crowded and we ran into a mixed crowd â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a college group, some Chinese visitors and more from the U.S. embassy.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

We then re-convened and got ready for our hike to the highest viewpoint of Gorakh Hill. The climb was a tad bit steep, but we were in good spirits. It took 45 minutes in total and once we reached the top, we found the scenery breath-taking. We could not have imagined this magical mountainous view in our very own Sindh – a predominantly flat region. Overwhelmed by the panorama, we tried to capture the moment and the view in our cameras. There we hung out until we saw the sun set far away. On our way down, we had to be a bit careful, since there was minimal light and we had to use our cell phone lights to avoid tripping over any rocks. As we reached the bottom, we saw that most of the people who had also visited the viewpoint had returned sooner than us. We ordered food and asked everyone to join in – some did and we introduced ourselves to them. The food was absolutely delicious – between daal maash, chicken and mutton karahi, complemented with karak naan, and mixed sabzi, we had quite a feast! I had packed along some games for the night, and we took them out after dinner. We played a couple of rounds of Sequence which is light and easy to understand and our new friends loved it.

I then sat under the open sky, letting the cool breeze run through my hair and the clean air clear my mind. I was so inspired I ended up writing some poetry. The untouched beauty of the world is nothing short of a modern-day miracle. As we headed back to our motel, my husband and I decided to camp out on the grounds while our friends stayed in the room. The camp was set up in the wild, but not far away from the building. It was supremely comfortable and spacious. I fell asleep instantly and the next thing I remember is my husband waking me up at 4am to one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever laid my eyes upon. It was the most star-studded sky I had ever seen in my life. Absolutely gorgeous! The image will remain etched in my mind forever. We woke up our friends and headed up to the viewpoint again to watch the sunrise. The fresh air filled our lungs as the sun came up, lighting the sky. We did a bit of yoga up at the top, before heading back for breakfast. When we got back, we were treated to a royal breakfast of omelettes and chai and freshly made parathas (fried bread). We ordered a serving of French fries, with chaat masala (local spice powder) sprinkled over it. Life was good.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Photo by Saad Iqbal

I then sat under the open sky, letting the cool breeze run through my hair and the clean air clear my mind. I was so inspired I ended up writing some poetry. 83

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Photo by Shehzad Ahmed

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

It was finally time to pack up. The trip was short and sweet but memorable nonetheless. This one and a half day not only gave us an opportunity to experience our home province, Sindh, in all its charming beauty and warm hospitality but to also form close friendships. Had we not planned this trip, we would have not made such great friends, for they say, when you travel with people whose company you enjoy, you form a special bond with them that is sure to last you a lifetime. For all those who sometimes feel they need a bit of a break away from the city, Gorakh Hill offers a cool respite and an unforgettable experience.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;When you travel with people whose company you enjoy, you form a special bond with them that is sure to last you a lifetime.â&#x20AC;?

TRAVELISTA

Escape An To

SRI LANKA Sun, sand and surf – TV actor Sarwat Gillani’s Sri Lankan escape features all that and more. She and her husband Fahad were recently on the island state for some much-needed R&R. Before planning your vacations this summer, here’s a complete low down on Sarwat’s trip that should inspire all those who want a fabulous beach resort holiday or even a cool trek up in the mountains. 88

TRAVELISTA

ou were in Sri Lanka recently, a country famous for beach holidays, meditation retreats and tea plantations. What took you there – work or leisure? What part of Sri Lanka did you visit and where did you stay? Well, it was a bit of both. Since Fahad and I have a very busy work and home schedule, we barely get to spend quality time together, hence we decided to ta ke some time off from work and the kids and give our relationship a refreshing treat. Through a friend we were invited to a resort in Kandy so we thought it was a good opportunity to make a trip first to Colombo to see the city scene and then head to the mountains. It really helps when you know locals in a city you’re not so familiar with and we were lucky to have a local couple who were Fahad’s friends. They showed us a great time and directed us to some shopping and eating places. After spending three days in Colombo, we headed to Bentota Beach, and stopped at The Villa resort for an amazing lunch and some quiet time at the beach. It was like a scene from the movies, with train tracks running on one side of the beach to a long strip of thick tree plantation and then the ocean itself. We were both so overwhelmed by the beauty of it that we sat there quietly absorbing as much of it as possible. Then we took a road trip to Kandy where the clouds would float around us because of the altitude we were at. It was simply magical – from visiting tea plantations to yoga sessions, massages and some amazing food; it all made our trip so memorable that we plan to visit Santani Wellness Resort and Spa again next year.

TRAVELISTA

it all made our trip so memorable that we plan to visit Santani Wellness Resort and Spa again next year.

TRAVELISTA

Top Essential Items 1. Sun Screen 2. Swimwear 3. Umbrella 4. Sarongs 5. Sun shades

Did you find anything interesting for the taste buds? Please tell us about the exotic local food you’ve had in Sri Lanka. Colombo was all about food. Their food scene is right up there with the best in the world, especially seafood – I mean, we were having seafood for breakfast, lunch and dinner! There is this really established and very bohemian restaurant called Beach Vadia, which is on the beach so you can take off your shoes and twiddle your toes on the cold, night beach sand while you eat. It’s quite an organic experience. The sea food is as fresh as it gets and the spices and sauces are very unique to Sri Lanka. Then there is the world famous Ministry of Crabs, where the giant crabs they serve are amongst the best in the world. We had quite a bit of local Sri Lankan food, which was also interesting. In fact, I would highly recommend visiting this strip of road called Park Street in Colombo which has great restaurants that serve fusion, Sri Lankan, French, Italian and Japanese cuisine.

6 Shopping Top

Picks

Local Sri Lankan sarongs and handwoven dresses from Barefoot.

Their local white fishermen suits (especially for children) from Odel.

Things like candles, hand creams and calming soaps from Spa Ceylon.

Batik print sarees by different designers.

Of course, Sri Lanka’s most famous export, Ceylon tea, in many different flavours.

Sri Lanka is also famous for its sapphires and moonstones. Tip: If you’re buying gems and jewellery, it’s best to make use of your bargaining skills!

ART SPEAKS

Imran Qureshi & Aisha Khalid

Perfection in

Motion

Internationally acclaimed artists Imran Qureshi and Aisha Khalid have used the newly built Islamabad Airport as the canvas for their latest works. The gigantic murals by the two artists near the domestic and international check-in counters provide an arresting imagery that has become one of the airportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s defining features. DESTINATIONS takes a closer look. 98

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Imran Qureshi

Pages of Perfection

2018, emulsion, acrylic paint, gold leaf and silk screen on canvas 12 feet x 200 feet (work in hundred parts, 6x4 feet each panel) Pages of Perfection, based on the Quranic verse of Surah Al-Qadar (the Night of Power), is the largest painting/mural by the internationally-acclaimed artist Imran Qureshi to date.

The work’s composition/visual layout is based on the idea of “unfolded pages of Islamic manuscript” where Qureshi has referenced the aesthetics of Mughal ornamentation and the colour palette used in Quranic manuscript and traditional Mughal miniature painting through his personal vocabulary. There isn’t a direct reference to them but one can sense the approach through its visual impact. In this 61-meter long mural, Qureshi has linked his painted vocabulary with the essence of Surah Al-Qadar in a conceptual way. In the delicate details of the paint splashes in blue and red, one can witness the metaphor of energy travelling and moving with force in an outward direction. At different places, the artist has used the tonal gradation of the colour blue from the sky at different moments of the day (and night). These elements also have an obvious link to the idea of travelling through the sky, in the context of an airport as a display space for such artwork.

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Aisha Khalid

You are the Universe in Ecstatic Motion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; (Rumi) 2018, acrylic and imitation gold leaf on canvas, 12â&#x20AC;&#x2122; x 192â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Aisha Khalid has selected verses from the Quran that are recited before embarking on a journey and has applied Kufic calligraphy in gold for rendering these verses. Conceptually, the gold geometric lines describe the act of travelling and the circular vortex patterns denote constant motion. She uses brilliant jewel-like colours to engage the viewer. The mural is inspired by a traditional Islamic eight-fold geometric pattern. For the last 20 years, the artist has incorporated her own exploration of geometric patterns within the formal tradition. This constitutes her signature style.

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DESTINATIONS DIARY

POSTCARDS from

Hunza By Mobeen Ansari

Acclaimed photographer Mobeen Ansari captures the changing hues and magical landscape of Hunza during blossom season, as the valley shakes off the blanket of snow that covered its peaks during winter and emerges in bloom for the summer.

Full blossom in Mominabad, central Hunza.

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I absolutely love photographing blossoms under full moon, and this was one of those shots taken in Gulmit, in Gojal district (also known as upper Hunza).

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A cat sits under a newly bloomed tree, Gulmit.

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In the heart of Kamaris, near Ondra Fort, Gulmit.

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Altit Fort and Altit village, on an early morning. This photo was taken last year which was my first apricot blossom trip.

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An early morning walk, somewhere in Karimabad.

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Sheep passing through a beautifully engraved doorway, in Gulmit. This was in the early days of the blossom season, hence the purple hue.

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Ganesh, central Hunza.

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A cattle house in upper Gulmit.

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WANDERER

The Quest

Nature's for

Finest By Myra Qureshi Jahangir

Conaturalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s award-winning CEO explores Hunza to source wild-crafted ingredients for her organic skincare line.

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ravel is an essential, enriching part of my life. My passion for clean beauty began with a trip to Thailand that changed my outlook (and career path) entirely, while my recent trip to Hunza proved that wanderlust can be very productive indeed! This quote by historian Mirium Beard sums it up beautifully: “Travel is more than seeing the sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” My mission was two-fold when I visited Hunza this spring. I was there to source organic and wild-crafted ingredients as well as to see if, as a company, we could develop a Conatural funded project on raw material processing by employing local women, thereby giving back to the community. This would entail us locating raw materials, testing the botanical species to see if they suited our needs, and ultimately training women to process them at our premises in the local villages. This would allow us to directly create a sort of vocational training for women within their communities, and create longterm employment without them having to travel great distances for work. We would then use the raw materials or export them, and use any profits from this project to create more projects in the region. The Hunza valley and its surroundings is a truly magical place. Enveloped between the grand Himalayas and the Karakoram mountain ranges, it is home to some of the highest peaks in the world, the most pristine rivers and lakes, and some of the most stunning valleys.

In April, the sun shines bright and you find yourself surrounded by a spectrum of colours. For someone into organic and wild-crafted raw materials, the abundance of the wild fruit trees makes you feel like a kid in a candy store! Spectacular pears, walnuts, cherries, peaches, apricots and almonds juxtaposed with blossoms, kaleidoscopic in their fantastic hues of pink, peach and white. The plains are carpeted with lush green grass, the mountains strewn with wildflowers, the crystal clear waters of the river reflect an intense teal, contrasting the ancient snow-white glaciers, and the magnificent blue sky. Sunshine bathes this tremendous natural beauty with a glimmering magic in a symphony of colour and sound. The glaciatic air was brisk and seemed to carry the birdsong of magpies and the invigorating aroma of rich, moist earth. Among this serene magnificence, I couldn’t help but feel at one with nature as I realised how much my life had changed since I’d started working. I’d started my professional career in the corporate world with degrees from the LSE and an executive MBA from Georgetown-ESADE. I’d been working in investment banking and financial services at Citigroup, ING and Deloitte for thirteen years in London at the time. The experience strengthened the work ethic that continues to keep me focused and motivated on the job at hand. On a personal level, I’d been feeling increasingly frustrated by the allergies caused by pollution, commercial room fragrances and detergents at the time. My skin was reacting badly to chemicals in everyday beauty brands and skincare products and I was on the hunt for holistic remedies.

As Pakistani entrepreneurs, it feels particularly rewarding to create products that are approved and welcomed globally, and we’ve worked very hard to achieve this status.

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A visit to Koh Samui turned out to be life-altering —I met with a naturopath there who acquainted me with the world of essential oils and there was no looking back. I began experimenting with oils and concocting creams for my personal use in the kitchen of my flat in London. The results were phenomenal, so much so that I decided to enroll in natural skincare courses and thoroughly educate myself. By this time, I’d moved back to Lahore for a year’s sabbatical and discovered the skincare market in Pakistan was saturated with chemicalladen products. Consumers, it appeared, had low awareness of the benefits in going organic. I joined forces with my sister Rema, newly returned to Lahore after a career at the UN and the World Bank, and Conatural was born. Our baby is now three years old and we’re proud to say we’ve played a big role in educating a great number Pakistani consumers about harmful beauty products that can contribute towards health issues, from skin irritation and pigmentation to hormonal disorders, neurotoxicity and even cancer. As Pakistani entrepreneurs, it feels particularly rewarding to create products that are approved and welcomed globally, and we’ve worked very hard to achieve this status. We hope it’s inspiring other entrepreneurs to make their mark internationally too, and produce Pakistani products associated with high quality. We go through a rigorous process that involves a great deal of testing and extensive paperwork in order to receive the coveted EU seal of approval to sell our products in the UK. Natural and organic remedies have been effective for centuries and continue to be so. We manufacture organic soaps, facial moisturisers, body butter, body scrub, organic facial oils, SLS-free shampoo and conditioner,

hair oils, eyelashes, massage oils, pillow mist, and essential oils and they’re available in Pakistan, the UAE and the UK. What makes them so special? Well, natural and organic products are devoid of harmful chemicals, artificial colours and fragrances, rubbers and plastics (silicones), and carcinogenic preservatives, so they’re less likely to cause skin irritation. Besides being good for the skin, they’re earthfriendly and safe for the environment as well as being cruelty-free. They’re naturally fragranced with plant botanicals or essential oils instead of artificial perfume. I was recently acknowledged with a Laurels of Honour by the Women’s Chamber of Commerce and Industry; the fact that it was a Green Business Award reflects the changing attitude towards environmentally friendly practices along with empowering women. It’s really important for me to work towards inspiring and emboldening women. I believe that working women are the key to growing Pakistan’s economy. Unfortunately, many women cannot find female role models in their workplaces, as most workplaces are male-dominated. Women employed in male-dominated workplaces are more likely to say their gender has made it harder for them to get ahead at work, say they’re less likely to be treated fairly, and report gender discrimination at significantly higher rates. At Conatural, we strive to change that. Our sales force is entirely female and we have a significant number of women trained and employed in every department, from distilling and manufacturing to managerial and more. Our recent #iSupportHer social awareness campaign hopes to give women a voice and strengthen support among our gender for positive social change.

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Hunza

Essentials

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Name some indigenous raw materials beneficial for skin care in Hunza. To name a few, almonds, apricots and sea buckthorn, to be used as carrier oils. Where did you stay and do you recommend it? I stayed at the Hunza Serena Inn. The views are just fantastic. You have the option of staying in luxury tents for a more rustic experience, which is what I did. The location is great, it’s close to the main street where there are quaint restaurants and curio shops. What activities did you enjoy during your stay? Early morning yoga! I’d step out of my tent with crisp air and beautiful sunshine, a beautiful view of the Karakorams and the valley. It’s the perfect setting for yoga and meditation. Then of course, hiking, there are some fantastic hiking places. My favourite is the beautiful Passu glacier. The ice on the glacier is millions of years old and it’s so vast. And of course, no trip is complete without a visit to the astonishingly unique Altit and Baltit Forts, built and preserved within arid topography. Sustaining a fort so high up and surviving in an earthquake zone is an indelible accomplishment!

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What was the best surprise of your trip? I was taken aback with the absolute beauty of Lake Attabad. It’s like you’re part of nature’s amphitheater with a 360 degree view of the mountains and this beautiful soft sand. In retrospect, what did you wish you’d packed? My luggage got lost in the flight and I didn’t get it back till the very last day. It’s a normal practice for the airline to offload people’s luggage as it’s a small plane. I suggest that everyone should carry a change of clothes and essentials in hand luggage! What was your favourite among the local cuisine? Chapshoro, which is a local form of pizza and it’s so good. It’s available everywhere, as street food and served at hotels too. Any local expression/lingo that you picked up? Ju na, which means ‘thank you.’ The language Burushaski doesn’t remind of you of any other language, it’s an isolated language. It has some has Central Asian elements and some words familiar to my ear, theek is one of them.

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Visit the Conatural outlet at Emporium Mall to get your hands on its vast organic range. 129

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HOW TO like

Fashionista

SARA SHAHID With sun-splashed shores as well a culturally-rich town centre, Mombasa is a slice of tropical life that showcases the best of Africa, as discovered by designer Sara Shahid of Sublime after a recent holiday. In her words, “Mombasa was one of the best vacations of my life. What made it perfect was that firstly, my entire family – parents and siblings – were together on a holiday after years and secondly, the place was absolutely stunning and fascinating.”

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TRAVELISTA “I had always been intrigued by the idea of visiting Africa some day and Mombasa surpassed my expectations. It truly has some breath-taking beaches, my favourite being Diani Beach. I have never felt this close to nature. White sandy beaches with blue waters, safari with animals that are so close that you can almost touch them – it was another world. There was plenty of action around the beach, including activities such as scuba diving and snorkelling. Every evening, the beachfront would come alive with cultural shows taking us through African traditions, dances and music.”

The Hotel

“The Neptune group of hotels has several amazing properties all over Africa, in Kenya, Tanzania and Zanzibar. The one we stayed in was The Neptune Palm Beach Boutique Hotel and Spa, Mombasa. Being with the ones I love in a hotel overlooking the most spectacular beach was pure bliss. The loveliest were the monkeys on our balconies that came by to visit every day!”

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The Kenyan Experience “The Kenyan hospitality and friendliness was heart-warming. Mombasa, Kenya’s oldest city, is a melting pot of cultures and home to sights that will leave you awe-struck. From dancing on the beach under the stars to dinners in gorgeous locations in the wilderness to watching sunsets together as a family, you can experience it all here. The food is excellent and my favourite local speciality were the Cassava chips that are eaten with chillies and lemon. I loved them so much I brought them back with me to Pakistan. Mombasa is known for its woodwork and I brought back a gorgeous elephant carved stool and some masks.”

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TRAVELISTA Top 5 Things to See in Mombasa Fort Jesus: This 16th-century military fort build by the Portuguese is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a unique example of local architecture. The Fort Jesus Museum houses artefacts showcasing Mombasaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history as a port of transit during the slave trade. The Old Town: On the southeast side of Mombasa Island, the Old Town is reminiscent of the days when the Portuguese ruled the port city. The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inhabitants are mostly of Arab, Asian, and European origin, and the architecture reflects their cultures. Atmospheric restaurants and cafes and quaint souvenir shops line the narrow alleys. Haller Park: Created on the site of a coral reef, the park is home to diverse wildlife, including hippos, giraffes, buffalos, antelopes and crocodiles as well as smaller mammals and birds. Shimba Hills National Reserve: 16km outside the city of Mombasa is the Shimba Hills National Reserve, where one can see forest elephants, the endangered sable antelope, Sykes monkeys and the Sheldrick waterfalls. The park is one of the last remnants of coastal tropical forests. Bombolulu Workshops and Cultural Centre The centre is a good place for a snapshot of Kenyan culture. Visitor can enjoy tribal dance performances, take a tour of traditional Kenyan homesteads and purchase handcrafted souvenirs such as jewellery, textiles, wood-carving and leather crafts from the workshops.

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Sara Shahid’s Summer

Style Must-haves

Minimalist and classic with a dash of fun – Sara Shahid’s holiday wardrobe essentials are a reflection of her design philosophy. These must-haves can take you from a day of soaking in the sun at the beach to a night around town with ease.

1. No beach getaway is complete without the perfect sunhat. 2. Cat-eye sunglasses are all the rage this season. 3. A simple yet vibrant clutch such as this Edie Parker acrylic one is ideal when dressing up. 4. A straw tote is the perfect accessory for a summer vacation. 5. A bright maxi dress for a splash of colour. 6. A belted dress – easygoing yet sophisticated for a night out. 7. Gianvito Rossi mules – make a statement without compromising on comfort. 8. Tassled earrings for a bit of oomph. 9. Chloe leather and gold charm bracelet – arm candy to amp up any outfit. 10. Tory Burch striped leather sneakers because everyone needs a comfy pair when exploring a new destination. 11. Balenciaga satin embellished slippers – laidback luxe that works with anything from kaftans to jeans.

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WANDERER

Uzbekistan By Amber Imran

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Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the secret to travelling with a large group of people from around the world and ensuring that everyone has the trip of a lifetime? Event manager Rima Farid shares her wisdom with journalist Amber Imran after a recent trip to Uzbekistan with a group of 18 diverse individuals, ranging in ages from 25 to 75.

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f you’re a history buff or took Social Studies as a subject in the eighth grade in Pakistan, chances are that you would have read about the ancient trade route between China and the Mediterranean known as the great Silk Road of Central Asia, and the mention of Bukhara and Samarkand would spark the same sense of intrigue you felt as a child, at least faintly.

Hence, earlier this year, when event manager Rima Farid was sipping some tea with family and friends at her cosy lodge in Murree and a prospective trip to Uzbekistan came up during conversation, her response was simply, “Trip itinerary and cost please!” It came out that the tour was being arranged by her close aunt and the catch was that including Rima, the eight-day trip would comprise of eighteen people ranging between 27 and 75 years of age, belonging to different cities, from Islamabad to Quetta and as far as Dubai and Jeddah, with at least one aged lady who couldn’t walk too well. As daunting as the idea of such a travel group sounds, these 18 like-minded people decided to leave their inhibitions behind to have some fun under the Central Asian sun and off they flew to Tashkent, just a 3-hour flight from Lahore, much like a local flight, considering that there is no time difference between both destinations.

On Group Dynamics Rima shares in her own words her practical views about the dynamics of travelling with a big group that presents an age variance, and is convinced that the advantages of travelling in such an ensemble far outnumber the drawbacks, provided the members of the group are flexible and committed to the fun factor. “In the beginning I was a little apprehensive about the idea of travelling with a group of eighteen people, I only knew four or five of them personally and squirmed a little with my partner in crime Rabiya about how we would probably end up being the youngest of the lot, playing porters for the elders and being ordered around for bringing them coffees. We were concocting our exit strategies right from the beginning, oblivious at the time to the joy that this group trip was about to bring us. 138

Here is some collective wisdom shared by our group: Go forth with a convivial mindset. Be accepting of the diversity in the group and be patient. Don’t make your own fortress and apprehensions will dispel very quickly. Once you get to know the people in your group, it is highly likely that everyone will slip into a median age and you will end up enjoying each other’s company. The younger lot will gain from the lives of the elders and the elders will relearn how to unleash their frivolous side. Fun! If you want to make a deviation from the basic itinerary, do so; just set a time and place to meet up and then follow that plan. Like one day, the younger members of the group didn’t want to have dinner with the elders, so we made our own reservations to eat out in a different part of the city. Another time, I was the only one out of the 18 who stayed back at the hotel to lounge around while the rest went for an opera and ballet performance. Everyone’s got each other’s back and as time passes, this bond becomes stronger. Your group will have a bus/coach at your disposal which makes it easier to keep valuables safe. The coach banter makes the best of memories. Many jokes will be cracked. You will share unique experiences and get a chance to be in your true element, cherishing every bit of it. We had a poetess, a historian and a children’s books writer in our gang so we would enjoy poems and stories in the bus while some of us were out sight-seeing and shopping etc. We had a special situation with an aged lady who could not walk too much so everyone helped her with her luggage/ shopping and we all chipped in to help her through lines and barriers. Her best friend was her rock as she took care of her needs and stayed behind on a few accounts when she was too tired.

There were three gentlemen in our group who handled our luggage very smartly at the train stations, especially at Samarkand where there are exactly three minutes to exit the train to Samarkand (from Bukhara) and board the train to Tashkent. Finding porters for those three minutes seemed like a futile exercise and of course we never travel light, so there was amusing porter synergy on display between the men, to say the least. Having said that, we also had our share of muddle ups which is inevitable in any trip anyway, but these were very trivial matters like snags in time management, a minor issue at the hotel, a tourist guide’s mistake etc. Nobody made any issues about it.”

Uzbekistan – The Landlocked Treasure Trove Nestled between Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan is located in the heart of Central Asia bordering the Aral Sea. It gained independence from a longstanding occupation of the Soviet Union as recently as 1991 under the initiative of its first president Islam Karimov. It is a historically and culturally significant space as a famed thoroughfare for many conquerors and traders of the world.

“I think that a major part of the success of a trip is when people are laidback and want to make the most of it!”

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Tashkent Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan is a true reflection of both the modern and traditional faces of the country with a hint of Soviet influence. The older side showcases the historical mosques, mausoleums and sites linked to the silk-road while the modern side features museums and a mix of modern and Soviet-era architecture. “Driving through the city, for the most part, I felt like I was roaming around in G.O.R in Lahore,” says Rima. “The capital is very clean and has a sewerage canal which is filtered so well that people go boating in it.”

Places to see: The Mustakillik Maydoni

The Mustakillik Maydoni, which in Uzbek means “Independence Square.” Rima reminisces, “This is my favourite place for a cool evening stroll in Tashkent. It features swanky cafes, street art and local artists/ students who will draw live sketches and caricatures for you in just five dollars.”

The Courage Memorial Complex

Documents the devastating earthquake (8.33 magnitude) on April 26, 1966 in which much of Tashkent was wrecked.

Khasti Imam

Here, you must visit the Teleshayakh Mosque that displays the oldest copy of the Quran which belonged to Hazrat Usman (RA).

The Muyi - Mobarik Madrassah

The Muyi- Mobarik Madrassah (a part of the complex) is a library which was built in the 16th century and is famous for holding a hair strand believed to belong to the Prophet Muhammad (SAW).

The Grand Chorsu Bazaar

The Chorsu Bazaar is a robust farmer’s market topped by a giant green dome and separated into many shopping sections. For tourists, this is a delightful slice of city life spilling into the streets off the Old Town’s southern edge. There are acres of spices arranged in brightly coloured mountains, huge sacks of grain, entire warehouses dedicated to candy and the freshest breads and fruits around.

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Bukhara A four-hour train ride from Tashkent and famous for its “Gilam” short-pile carpets in red and brown tones, Bukhara (Buxoro) can be coined as Central Asia’s holiest city, with buildings spanning a thousand years of history, and a bustling city centre that hasn’t changed too much in two centuries. It is one of the best places in Central Asia for a glimpse of pre-Russian Turkestan.

While in Bukhara, you must visit: Lyab-e-Hauz

The town square. “You can saunter around the vicinity with local music playing in the background like a movie score and find all sorts of historical madrassahs, food and shopping spots surrounding the square. Surreal!” recalls Rima.

The Ark Fortress

One of the most ancient architectural and archaeological monuments of Bukhara built in the 15th century and occupied up till 1920 when it was bombed by the Red Army.

The Kalyan Minaret

Built by the Karakhanid ruler Arslan Khan in 1127 as probably the tallest building in Central Asia at the time. Changez Khan was so flabbergasted by its magnificence that he ordered for it to be spared while his troops ransacked the rest of the city.

The Ismail Samanid Mausoleum

A world famous architectural masterpiece, famous for changing its colour or “personality” as the day progresses based on the shifting rays of the sun.

Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace

The summer residence of the Emir of Bukhara, built in the mid 19th century. 141

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Samarkand Known as the “Rich City” by some scholars and the “Stoned City” by the Persians, Samarkand is the second largest city of Uzbekistan. Historically its location at the heart of the Silk Road and strong trade infrastructure made it a crossing point between the east and west, warranting its position as a favourite capital for numerous empires over time since 700 B.C including the time of Alexander the Great and Changez Khan. It was Amir Temur (Tamerlane) the Turco-Mongol conqueror and founder of the Timurid Empire who invested lavishly in the architectural presentation of Samarkand by building grand mausoleums, mosques, madrassahs and statues to show the might of the Timurid Empire. Samarkand remains resplendent with history, art and architecture for the tourists today.

Samarkand beckons you to visit: Registan Square

Rima recalls, “It is somewhat like our Badshahi Mosque compound with a series of adjoining buildings like darbaars with gold interiors, museums and souvenir shops and a favourite spot for wedding photo-shoots.”

Gur-Emir Mausoleum

Gur-Emir (Persian for “tomb of Emir”) is the mausoleum of the great ruler and commander of the 14th century Amir Temur and his family.

Imam Bukhari Mausoleum

One of the main pilgrimage sites in Uzbekistan and a part of a huge complex which also houses mosques, madrassahs, a museum and tombs.

The Shahi Zinda Ensemble

The Shahi Zinda Ensemble is a group of mausoleums of the nobles of Samarkand, built between the 11th and 19th centuries.

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People and Culture Proud of their rich history and vibrant culture, Uzbeks are a warm and friendly lot. Most of them are Muslim (90%) and speak Uzbek, Farsi (Persian) and Russian. The younger lot can speak some English here and there so if you need directions, look for the teens and twenties. You will find many older citizens around the squares, chatting about their daily lives or playing a game of checkers, while women will be bantering or chanting Quranic verses in unison. They like to interact with tourists and will happily share a tête-à-tête with you to find out where you come from as they serve you green tea and dry fruits. Women usually dress somewhat conservatively and love wearing brightly coloured dresses with matching harem trousers. In winters, you will find both men and women clad in long velvet cloaks with heavy embellishment and bold designs, especially the iqqat design. Heads will be covered with fur hats and feet with rugged boots. Unwanted attention isn’t really a problem in Uzbekistan and reports of crimes against tourists are reassuringly low since the police and security system is very strict even for the locals.

Uzbek Food Feel good or bad about it, but you will hardly find any international food chains in Uzbekisan. Their local cafés are quite up to the mark though. The bakery is fresh and the variety of freshly baked breads is remarkable. You can fetch a good cup of coffee or tea in a dollar and twenty-five to go with it. The food is generally quite inexpensive and the Uzbek palette (across the board) is based on fresh salads, grilled meats, loaves of bread and the rice pulao (plov made of rice, carrots, raisins and onions) which they claim has different accents of flavour across the cities but tastes essentially the same to the traveler. Rima’s thoughts were, “I’d say that Uzbek food is a fusion of Arabic, Turkish, Mughal and Afghani recipes – salty and a little modest on spices.”

Shopping The reason why we recommend that you travel to Uzbekistan with minimum luggage is because you are bound to have excess baggage on the way out. The good news is that the excess weight charges are just a dollar and a half to a kg (check with your airline). Not too bad considering that the ceramics are worth the weight! The fact is that Temur brought in the best ceramicists, artists and architects from all over the empire to beautify the cities of Khiva, Samarkand and Bukhara, and his descendants luckily helped to keep this artisanship alive so that tourists today can pick up handicrafts like handmade ceramics inspired by the mosaics and murals from mosques and mausoleums, needlework, silk cloth and miniaturist paintings for just a few dollars in most madrassas, which have largely been transformed into bazaars.

Striking silk and cotton carpets in Bukhara with unique patterns which may have taken as long as five years to hand-weave, The famous tribal decorative textile called the “Suzani” embroidered with fine needlework (Suzandozi). Contemporary and traditional paintings by street and seasoned artists which are easy on your pocket. Handicrafts include embroidered and fur caps, bags, pouches, silver jewellery, brass and woodwork, paper mache and even blue pottery. 143

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Travel

Tips

Travel light on the way in but do keep jackets if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re visiting at the end of the summer season. The best time to travel to Uzbekistan is at the end of summer and beginning of autumn when the temperatures are not extreme.

Do declare your valuables including cash on the immigration form to avoid complications at the airport on your way back.

Similarly in case you have travelled on an independent visa, you must make sure that you get the hotel entries and exits registered in the cards supplied by the state for the same. The tour arrangers take care of this business for group visas.

Stay at five star hotels in Uzbekistan. Though hotels claim to be five star in Bukhara and Samarkand, most of them are actually three or four star. Tashkent, being a cosmopolitan city, has good four and five star hotels; the Uzbekistan Hotel located in the business centre of the city is a popular option for tourists.

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You will get better hotel rates if you travel in a big group, approximately $70 to $100 per night. A lodging advantage in Uzbekistan hotels is that you will be provided with three beds in a room whether you book for single or double occupancy.

Though there are local theme parks for kids, Uzbekistan holds more attraction for adults who love art, history, architecture and museums. There is a lot of walking involved so bring kids if they are avid travellers and your family is cut out for this kind of an excursion.

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Uzbekistan is not a very disability friendly place so do thorough research about the places you want to visit and talk at depth to the hotel staff and tour arrangers about trip destinations which might have many steps to climb.

Money: The easiest exchangeable currency is the US Dollar. Carry only fresh, uncut bills as currency notes will not be accepted easily if something is written on them or they are torn even slightly. A single US dollar will fetch you about 8000 soms.

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It is easier to use Uzbek soms for shopping but you have to be good with your bargaining skills. Have a hearty breakfast at the hotel as that will set your tone for the day. You can buy fresh corn from carts for snacks and biscuits and nuts etc. by weight from charming little grocery shops.

Get guides where you can and keep a card or location of your hotel handy for cab drivers.

The cities are quite safe, so you can travel intracity by cabs or buses and local trains. You want to use the high-speed trains (Afrosiab) for intercity traveling.

Ideally, your group should do the whole trip with a local tour arranger who travels along with you. This will take care of many issues such as buying tickets, bargaining, navigation and being lost in translation. If such an arrangement is not possible, then do hire tour guides everywhere you go.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

rural LAHORE RidingThrough By Saad A Kureshi

Architect and Managing Partner at Architects Inc, Saad A. Kureshi is a fitness enthusiast who has recently discovered the joys of outdoor cycling. A recent biking tour saw him not only flexing his muscles but also taking in the charming sights and sounds of rural Lahore. For those interested in following his tracks, read on to discover how you too can go on the ride of a lifetime.

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The

GROUP

The Lahore Cantt Cycling Group, run by Mr. Zaigham Imtiaz, arranges cycling tours all around Lahore as well as in other areas of the country. The group is open to all ages as long as one knows cycling and is an outdoor sports enthusiast.

The

BIKE

SCOTT SPEEDSTER 40

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A Ride Through The

COUNTRYSIDE My first trip was the BRB Canal Tour which took us across an idyllic countryside route. The starting point was at the junction of the BRB Canal cross section and Burki Road. A parking space had been created there for those who chose to come by car. From there, we began cycling along the tree-lined canal and eventually ended at a farmhouse, where we had a delicious desi breakfast of anda paratha.

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WHAT& HOW

The The

The meeting time was 7:00 am. The tour trail was almost 20-25km (round trip), which took us about two hours. We were a group of about 20 to 25 riders, men and women, ranging in ages from 25 years to 45 years.

Why

I BIKE

My total ride was actually 65km long, as I started and ended my cycling journey from my house in Askari 10. I wanted to cycle extra to complete my daily 20km workout. I love cycling these days and have been doing it regularly for the last 2 months, both as a workout and as a chance to enjoy the outdoors.

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Cycling Essentials Helmet and cycling gear Water Phone for GPS Sweat-proof earphones Carb-fuelled energy food if the ride is more than 1 hour, e.g. a banana or an energy bar

Fitness

REQUIREMENTS

Cycling is not that easy as core and legs muscles are involved in it. So yes, a person should be fit for this sport. It also needs a lot of practice. Even though this was a slow-paced ride, we were off-road so our grip needed to be very firm and a lot of forearm muscle was involved. Please look up the Lahore Cantt Cycling Club Facebook page for details on upcoming trips and how you can be a part of them. 151

REFLECTIONS

Eat,

pray, B R E AT H E

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Nadia Faruki has been studying wellness for almost 17 years and teaching for 15. Her journey, which began while she was living in NYC and culminated with the launch of her Singapore-based holistic wellness practice Sangha Wellness, is one of self-awakening, spirituality and finding a balance between mental and physical wellbeing.

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n 2002, while living in NYC, I underwent an invasive medical procedure that was unnecessary. The experience helped me understand the limitations and approach of modern medicine. In my case, I felt disempowered by the lack of my own understanding and blind trust in the medical system. During that time, I became curious about what was important to creating optimal health as part of one’s lifestyle.

In 2005, I moved to Singapore where I taught at PURE Yoga for 3 years and then ran my own studio, Sangha, for 2 years. Sangha was a hub for teachers like myself to share our love for teaching yoga. While managing this group of wonderful teachers was very rewarding, the administrative tasks of running a business along with teaching and raising a young baby became taxing. The passing of my mother that year further gave me the clarity to let go of the space and dedicate more time to teaching and being with family.

A month after the procedure, I showed up to a roomful of yoga practitioners from all around the country to practise with renowned yoga instructor, Baron Baptiste. It was a classic Baron Baptiste bootcamp setting that no one could prepare you for: intense on all levels that went beyond the mere physical. I went on to complete all levels of training at the Baptiste Institute, and after two years I began to teach yoga.

While I was running Sangha, I met Paul Dallaghan at Samahita Retreat, Koh Samui and invited him to teach as our guest teacher. Paul introduced me to O.P. Tiwari and I became his direct student of pranayama soon after. I have been studying with Tiwari ji in Samahita, Thailand and in India since we met in 2008.

I joined the Institute of Integrative Studies (INN) around the same time to study holistic wellness. I was drawn to the programme’s activist approach, which gave me insight into the world of food lobbies and political agendas within the food industry. My understanding of advertising and marketing further helped me realise how important it was for individuals to educate themselves so they don’t become a victim to false advertising. Also, the programme addressed the full spectrum of wellness and nutrition from diverse perspectives, including ancient wisdoms from different cultures to the latest alternative methods incorporated by medical doctors. I received my diploma and became a holistic health counsellor certified by the American Association of Drugless Practitioners (AADP). Since then, I’ve been a staunch activist for wellness. 154

Currently, pranayama (breathwork) serves as a base for my asana practice. I continue to be guided by Tiwari ji and Paul. In alignment with my on-going learning of pranayama, I find great guidance from Richard Freeman and Mary Taylor in ashtanga vinyasa yoga. I practise yoga regularly because it brings me to a place of internal reflection. Every day, I gain knowledge by listening closely to my own body. As a single mother, I’m aware that practice may not always be possible according to set times, but there are as many ways to work around it as there are excuses not to. The awareness gained over time brings light bulb moments where old, repetitive, destructive patterns can be undone. The practice is so subtle and layered that I could spend a lifetime finding new things to work on that will continue to liberate me. In my experience, combining yoga and nutrition as tools for self-care can only enhance awareness, grit, as well as physical, emotional and spiritual wellbeing.

I practise yoga regularly because it brings me to a place of internal reflection. Every day, I gain knowledge by listening closely to my own body.

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Sangha Wellness At Sangha Wellness, we provide rehabilitation programmes incorporating primarily yoga asana, pranayama and nutrition as part of self-care. Our programmes include workshops, retreats, corporate off sites around the world and on-going local classes. We customise our programmes for individuals, corporate teams and families leaving no one behind to benefit from optimal health. We believe that in order to thrive in one’s life and work, stress management is extremely important for clear thinking, preventing burnout, and improving physical and mental health as well as productivity. To maintain equilibrium in today’s fast-paced world, we sometimes need good support and guidance.

Our clients are people with complex and important roles at home and at work, who will function more optimally with effective self-care. At Sangha Wellness, we aim to “serve those who serve others.”

UPCOMING YOGA RETREAT Samahita Retreat, Koh Samui Oct 6-13th 2018 at Samahita Retreat, Koh Samui 10% discount for Destinations readers (Use the code DestinationsPk while booking) For details, visit www.sanghawellness.sg Or Samahita Retreat www.samahitaretreat.com

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Either Side

Atlantic of the

By Nayum Faruki

This summer as you head out West â&#x20AC;&#x201C; either to London or to New York City â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there is a theatre play waiting to be seen, to be experienced and to be remembered. Theatre enthusiast Nayum Faruki selects some of her favourite acts for all those seeking a more culturally enriching experience at the holiday destination of their choice on either side of the Atlantic.

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CULTURE TALK his summer if you find yourself vacationing in New York or London, and want to escape the big city crowds in queues and on the streets, the best way to do so is by visiting the theatre. Both cities pride themselves on having a thriving theatre industry that leave audiences with unforgettable experiences.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing like watching live theatre. It keeps you grounded in the present and the thrill of watching onstage performers feed off your energy is absolutely exhilarating. So whether you are on your own, with family or visiting friends, treat yourself to a play! It may be tough to navigate through all the different musicals playing. To make this easier here is a short guide to what you should watch and when you could watch it.

Fun Shows for Kids Frozen Playing in New York

Open-ended run on Broadway Based on the Disney animation Frozen, the play brings us the same story of Elsa and Anna, the two sisters from Arendelle. You can expect to hear the same songs you know and love. Amidst songs like Let it Go which we all have heard a million times, you can expect new songs as well as great amounts of Disney magic on stage.

School of Rock Playing in New York and London

Open-ended run on Broadway and West End Based on the 2003 Jack Black movie, School of Rock is an empowering show for children that teaches them the importance of standing loud and standing proud. This show is great not just for kids but for parents as well. It follows the life of Dewy Finn, a man who impersonates his friend as a substitute teacher at an elite prep school and starts a band with the students.

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SpongeBob SquarePants: The Broadway Musical Playing in New York Open-ended run on Broadway

Based on the classic Nickelodeon cartoon, SpongeBob SquarePants: The Broadway Musical features music written by iconic musicians like David Bowie, Panic! at the Disco, Steven Tyler and The Plain White Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just to name a few. With immersive sets and amazing acting, a great time is guaranteed.

Wicked Playing in New York and London

Open-ended run on Broadway and West End Wicked serves as a prequel to The Wizard of Oz. It tells us of the history behind the Wicked Witch of the West (Elphaba) and Glinda The Good Witch. Wicked is one of the best-known musicals in the world, it is truly a Broadway classic with messages about friendship and loyalty.

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Shows For Teenagers, Young Adults & The Young at Heart Mean Girls The Musical Playing in New York Open-ended run on Broadway

Based on the 2004 insanely quotable movie Mean Girls, the musical lets us into the lives of Cady Herron and “The Plastics” through an all-new lens. It’s the same story and the same characters from before, but with over-the-top and hilarious songs and dances. This is an allstar Broadway cast that brings the writing of Tina Fey to life, in such outstanding ways.

Dear Evan Hansen Playing in New York Open-ended run on Broadway

Dear Evan Hansen is the Tony award-winning original musical written by Benj Pasek and Justin Paul, the composers responsible for the music of La La Land and The Greatest Showman. The story follows Evan Hansen, a socially awkward teenager who reflects on the world around him and struggles to find his place in society. This is a show I recommend parents to go see with their teenagers as it makes for good conversation and insight to both perspectives of raising a child and of growing up.

Book of Mormon Playing in New York and London Open-ended run on Broadway and West End

This musical is not for the faint of heart! It has been written to be offensive to anyone and everyone. Following the story of two Mormon missionaries who travel to Uganda to preach the Mormon religion, the show is guaranteed to make an audience laugh in ever so unconventional ways. 162

Waitress Playing in New York

Kinky Boots Playing in New York and London

Written by Grammy-nominated musician Sara Bareilles, the musical follows the life of Jenna Hunterson, a waitress with an emotional dependency on baking pies, as she navigates through an abusive relationship with her husband. The feel-good music creates a light atmosphere that counters the heavyheartedness of the show’s content.

Kinky Boots, written by the legend herself – Cyndi Lauper, is the story of Charlie Price who unexpectedly inherits his father’s shoe factory. In an attempt to keep the factory running, he starts catering exclusively to drag queens. The experience of watching this musical is very similar to that of attending an over-the-top dance party.

Open-ended run on Broadway

Open-ended run on Broadway and West End

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Classic Shows for (somewhat) Classy People Hamilton Playing in New York and London

Open-ended run on Broadway and West End This ground-breaking rap musical by Lin Manuel Miranda tells the story of Alexander Hamilton, an American founding father. With a diverse cast, a Pulitzer Prize award for drama as well as a record-breaking 16 Tony nominations, consider yourself lucky if you get your hands on tickets to this show.

The Phantom of the Opera

Playing in New York and London Open-ended run on Broadway and West End The Phantom of the Opera tells the story of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;phantomâ&#x20AC;? of the Paris Opera House and his obsession over Christine Daae, a lead soprano. This musical has the most immaculate sets and costumes; it is the perfect theatre experience for anyone who is looking for a suspension of disbelief.

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My Fair Lady Playing in New York

Runs until June 23rd on Broadway Based on the play Pygmalion by George Bernard Shaw and adapted from the Audrey Hepburn and Rex Harrison classic, My Fair Lady is back on Broadway and is a delightfully hilarious musical with a hint of old-world Hollywood nostalgia.

How to get tickets Online 1. Ticket Master

Visit: www.ticketmaster.com Ticket Master is one stop online to buy tickets for any show playing either on Broadway or on the West End. It is a safe website to make purchases, with the added benefit of being able to choose your seats, a service that many websites do not offer.

2. Stub Hub

Visit: www.stubhub.com Stub Hub is an online forum based in the US for authorized ticket resellers. It is particularly useful for people who are looking to attend a sold-out Broadway show.

In Person 1. Box Office

Visiting the box office outside the theatre housing the show you wish to watch is also a great opportunity. This way you can see if there are any promotions or upgrades in seats available. This can also make you familiar with the location of the theatre before you go for your show.

2. TKTS

TKTS is an outdoor ticket selling service in the middle of Times Square, exclusive for shows playing in New York and offering large discounts. If you can handle waiting in a long line, it can be a very useful tool for any theatre go-er.

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# L L F N YC 2 0 1 8

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LLF-NYC:

Culture

Where

Trumps Politics By Sabyn Javeri

Debut novelist Sabyn Javeri participates in the third iteration of the LLF-NYC held in collaboration with Asia Society that saw Pakistan being represented on American soil for its art, literature and music. Photo Credits: Ellen Wallop c/o Asia Society

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Maleeha Lodhi

Elegantly articulate, Dr. Lodhi opened the festival with a nod to the arts, acknowledging it as the best emissary of peace and harmony. And although the fiery discussions that followed were hardly congruous, in the cacophony of voices was the message of a harmonious discord, a healthy appetite for debate and discourse, vision and leadership and of course, art and craftsmanship. The fact that Man Booker Prize winner Kiran Desai chose to speak at the LLF despite the fact that she has not made a public appearance in years, shows its power to bring together the most interesting combinations of people, artists and thinkers.

Attiq Uddin Ahmed, Nayyar Ali Dada and Tanvir Hasan

safe place for dangerous ideas” is a tagline that seems to have stuck to the Lahore Literary Festival whether at home ground or around the world. This time around it was New York. At the third edition of the LLF-NYC in collaboration with the Asia Society, the person saying these words was none other than our very own Ambassador and Permanent Representative of Pakistan to the United Nations, Dr. Maleeha Lodhi.

Razi Ahmed, Maha Khan Phillips, Man Booker Prize-winner Kiran Desai, H. M. Naqvi and Rachel Cooper, Director, Asia Society

At the panel “Never a Dull Moment for Fiction in South Asia,” Desai, Maha Khan Philips, HM Naqvi and I talked about the way writers respond to the conflict of their times. Be it the wounds of partition or the recent war on terror, writers have always made sense of their surroundings through storytelling. These stories leave a lasting impression on the readers because they humanize violence and the trauma, creating an empathy which perhaps non-fiction never can. We also talked about the changing role of the writer and how it is becoming heavily politicized as well as heavily policed. Lastly, we spoke about the impact of technology and whether writers should adapt to the changing tastes to which Khan Philip had strong views. When asked if literature needed to evolve with technology, Khan Philips answered, “Even more important that we don’t fall down that track”.

Waqas Khan

Zahid Hussain, Kathy Gannon, Moeed Yousaf and Barnett Rubin

While she spoke about the preservation of the artist’s craft in a traditional sense, Desai talked about how some writers were adapting technology and alluding to social media within their writings, making it more timely and inclusive as well as reflective of the times we live in. It was a very stimulating discussion, which went far beyond its title, exploring not only the role of the writer but the quest of the writer in these turbulent times. Besides writing, art got its due share of attention on the LLF platform. From Mughal miniatures and art histories to discussions on the contemporary art scene, no ground was left uncovered. Shahzia Sikander was a treat to hear, even more so as she spoke so humbly about her impressive and stunning art work. In the session titled, “Lahore as Palimpsest: Exploring the Mughal Aesthetics and Progression to Progressive Artists,” that included Sikander as well as Mehreen Chida-Razvi, Zehra Jumabhoy and Vishakha Desai, there were invigorating dialogues not just on the history of Mughal art but on the journey of the South Asian art scene internationally and its place in the world today. And then of course, how can Lahore not be the star of its own show! In the session “Extraordinary Architecture, Everyday Lahore,” the Mughal city’s impressive architectural history was presented in beautiful visuals on a panel moderated by Attiq Uddin Ahmed, one which included the renowned architect Nayyar Ali Dada in discussion with the accredited conservation architect Tanvir Hasan. The mix of the old and new, of heritage with the futuristic, made this one of the most interesting panels of the day for me.

Ayesha Jalal

History, literature and art were inevitably followed by politics. An invigorating discussion titled “Pakistan at 70” saw Raza Rumi in conversation with historian Ayesha Jalal following Jalal’s fiery and thought provoking key note address on liberalism. Jalal referred to Syed Ahmed Khan’s vision of progress. He has been criticized by some for not promoting gender parity and not having done enough to encourage women’s education on the same level as that of men. Albeit, Jalal argued that his vision was not unusual to the times (as that was the order of the day). Yet she called him a visionary and a pioneer of progressive liberalism which in itself made it a paradoxically thought-provoking talk. Apart from these highlights, there was much more that followed during the day, from discussions on Afghanistan to debates on the survival of Urdu as a language. Prof. Tahira Naqvi surprised us all when she said that most students coming to her at NYU to learn the Urdu language were second-generation children of Bangladeshi immigrants! And isn’t that ironic, I thought to myself, given that Urdu was one of the main factors leading to the discontent between East and West Pakistan. After a day packed with food for thought, a befitting end to the programme was a delightful qawwali performance by the Saami brothers – a quintessential taste of Lahore’s soul in New York. The auditorium at the Asia Society reverberated with the melodious and soulful sounds of the qawwals and for a second, I felt transported back home. There was a sense of solidarity, a sense of collective harmony and perhaps a deep satisfaction to see Pakistan being represented for its art, culture and music on the soils of America and not for the ‘Trumpeting’ stereotype fears that seem to accompany the very name of the country. It was definitely heartening to see this effort by Razi Ahmed, Founder and CEO of the LLF, and by Asia Society to showcase the best of Pakistan by bringing together artists and thinkers from all over South Asia under one roof. It certainly renews one’s faith in the idea of words without borders. More power to them for many more such collaborations. May the force be with you!

Fared Ayaz and Abu Muhammad Qawwal Photo Credit: Elena Olivo c/o Asia Society

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Transition of TRADITION By Emaan Maqbool

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In a joint exhibition titled Transition of Tradition, artists Marjan Baniasadi and Anushka Rustomji explore the constantly evolving nature of traditions and their transformative effect on those who practice them.

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onday, the 23rd April 2018, was an unusual day for an exhibition, a foreshadow of what was to be experienced at Transition of Tradition. As you enter Lahore’s Taseer Art Gallery, your eye immediately catches Marjan Baniasadi’s piece. It has a warm, welcoming feel, emanating particularly from the colour palette. What at first glance looks like a fragment of carpet stretched out is in fact a painted canvas interwoven with woollen threads. This creates not only a most wonderful illusion but also an allusion to the basic theme at large. The work reminds you of cosy homes rich with handwoven carpets. While each image is complete in itself, the overall aura contains a sense of curiosity; it makes you feel as if you are looking at a piece of a larger puzzle. The attractive quality

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behind her work is that complete yet incomplete desire. The hazy image makes you want to look closer and find the clues; find the bigger picture. Between the landscapes and motifs there is a hidden story waiting to be deciphered. After much introspection you realize that what you feel is actually nostalgia. Her work is like a mirror that looks at the past but within the new frame of contemporary art. A transition of tradition is at play. While Marjan’s pieces operate at a subconscious level, building subtle layers, Anushka Rustomji’s display has a more headstrong approach. She uses foreign yet familiar signs and symbols throughout her work with the use of ancient Eastern and Zoroastrian imagery. These images instantly leave an impression of the “historic”; of a time that has passed. Ancient symbols are recreated in new ways through new patterns. These ideas have been showcased in a variety of forms in Anushka’s case; with paintings on archival paper, images made though punctures on galvanized steel and through embossed archival paper.

Each of the steel items has a different image that looks like a remnant of the past; something that was once upon a time used to make hieroglyphs and was the essential alphabet in keeping record. The images look like stencils and could possibly be part of a Pakistani truck’s ornamentation. Both of these references are related to practices that have slowly been taken over by technology – just like the symbols/images that were replaced by the alphabet and new storytelling techniques. Again, a transition is at work and old traditions are evolving. Marjan’s and Anushka’s subject matters diverge and complement one another while at the same time carry opposite feels. Marjan’s warmth differs from Anushka’s fresh, cool approach. Anushka’s pieces don’t imply a mysterious vibes of untold stories as do Marjan’s, rather they are a unique approach to new ideas from an old language. It’s like she’s telling new tales of forgotten times. In all forms there is similar imagery.

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Ready-made Ruin Chalk powder, 5 x 7 ft 2018

A collaboration by the two artists is what really brought their work together. Anushka’s galvanized steel pieces were used as stencils to make Marjan’s carpet in chalk, in a piece titled “Ready-made Ruin.” This felt like the full realization of the two artists’ display and helped bring together their individual artwork. The material, chalk, itself is a symbol of the past being erased. Chalk, which is limestone, is a material whose deposits date back to the Cretaceous period around 145.5 million to 65.5 million years ago and it has a history that originates in cave drawings. It is soft, fine-grained and is easily rubbed off. What was once used as a regular commodity in schools, on black boards, is now being replaced by markers and smart boards. So an extensively old product has been replaced as society has progressed, making it the perfect material for this project and exhibition in more than one way.

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The carpet being on the floor and without any marked boundaries for the audience resulted in more than one form of interaction between the art piece and audience. People had unknowingly stepped on the work and at the opening, the carpet had begun to fade; a quite literal comment on the transitions of traditions; how everything passes away slowly without notice.

The material, chalk, itself is a symbol of the past being erased.

Anushka Rustomji Musa Anushka Rustomji Musa (b. Karachi, 1989) is a visual artist and educator. She graduated in fine arts with a major in painting in 2012. She currently lives and practices in Lahore, Pakistan. Anushka’s practice is influenced by the themes of art history and erasure, in reference to colonization. Her visual vocabulary is informed by ancient Eastern and Zoroastrian imagery, texts and traditions. She utilizes the symbolism in texts and myths to form veiled visual narratives conveying ideas of creation, survival and transcendence. Through such imagery she makes cultural and historical connotations but ultimately leaving the interpretation of meaning up to the viewer.

Marjan Baniasadi Marjan Baniasadi (b. 1993) is an Iranian artist who did her BFA in painting (2016) and masters in visual arts (2017) at NCA and currently lives and practices in Lahore, Pakistan. Marjan’s practice revolves around her inspiration from carpets. She says: “Carpets and rugs are regarded as a basic household commodity in Iran. They are not only considered as flooring material, but they determine the hospitability of the region. There is a deeper value to which hints to a more mystical context. Each individual carpet hides, narrates a story. The white threads on the loom are like the beginning of a story or a journey. When in use, they are like a curtain hiding the ghosts of the many stories they have been entrusted with. The process of breaking or being broken into fragments is evident in nature and can also be seen in these carpets. My concern lies in bringing those fragments together and constructing a narrative.”

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TALK OF THE TOWN LAHORE

Curated Walk-Through of the National History Museum by CAP The Citizens Archive of Pakistan (CAP), a non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation of Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and culture, hosted a curated walk-through of the brand new National History Museum, a project of the Parks and Horticulture Authority (PHA) Lahore, Government of Punjab. Set in the locales of the glorious Greater Iqbal Park, the museum takes you on a journey through the history of Pakistan. Digital in nature, it provides a unique and exciting look at the events that have shaped Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and culture. Kids as well as adults will be enthralled by the immersive and interactive experience made possible using state-ofthe-art technology.

Sophia Balagamwala, Atika Rehman and Osman Haneef Director General PHA Mian Shakeel Ahmad

Amean J, President CAP

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Team CAP

Mahgul Rashid

Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy, Patron-in-Chief CAP

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Hamid Zaman and Sarah Zaman

Selina R. Khan

Nuscie Jamil

Rehan Bashir

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Sherezade Alam

Momina Sibtain

Faaria Salahuddin, Aqueela Mumtaz and Ayesha Tanzeem

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Aamna Taseer

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