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Why visit Bali? Festivals and floral offerings, ceremonies and spas, the echo of gamelon music floating across rice fields ... centuries-old temples, intricately carved wooden masks, hypnotic dance and a sacred monkey forest. This book highlights some of the experiences you won’t want to miss.
BALI 2
Bali Sea
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Gunung Agung Ubud Mas Denpasar Kuta
Indian Ocean
Amed Amlapura
Tenganan
BALI 3
Dragon at the entrance to the Blanco Museum.
The Hindu God Ganesh, Remover of Obstacles.
RAMAYANA BALLET 4
Spirit of Women & The Womens’ Association of North Ubud present a traditional dance called the Ramayana Ballet, telling the timeless story of Rama and Sita. It is performed at the Lotus Pond, behind the Cafe Lotus on the Ubud’s main street.
Lotus flowers adorn the walkway to the stage area.
RAMAYANA BALLET 5
Princess Sita with Rama.
Gamelan orchestra behind Sita.
RAMAYANA BALLET 6 The Ramayana, of course, is an ancient Indian Sanskrit epic. Consisting of 24,000 verses in seven books, it tells the story of Rama (an avatar of the Hindu preserverGod Vishnu), whose wife Sita is abducted by a demon king. Thematically, the Ramayana depicts the duties of relationships, portraying ideal characters, like the ideal king, ideal servant, ideal brother, ideal wife and ideal father. A newer version of this old story, the 9th century Javanese Kakawin Ramayana, is the reference of Ramayana in Bali, where it has become the source of moral and spiritual guidance as well as aesthetic expression and entertainment.
Here’s an abbreviation of the “short” story as depicted in this “ballet” and explained in “English” in a brochure for guests: Sita, her husband Rama, her father, and her brother Laksamana are making a journey and enter the jungle of Dandaka. Their entry to the jungle has been detected by the demonic minister Maricha. King Rahwana wants to kidnap the beautiful princess Sita, so his minister sets a plot to do the deed by transforming himself into a deer to attract Sita. However, Rama detects that the deer is not what it seems and shoots it, causing it to change back into Maricha, who runs screaming for help. (Continued)
The beautiful Princess Sita.
RAMAYANA BALLET 7
Sita’s evil kidnapper, King Rahwana.
RAMAYANA BALLET 8 Rama pursues him and Laksamana joins the pursuit, but before leaving he draws a magic circle around Sita to protect her. Rahwana has been watching and disguises himself as an old priest and begs for a drink of much-needed water. As soon as Sita brings the water, Rahwana snatches her out of her protective ring and takes her away.
On the way back to Rahwana’s palace the gigantic bird Jatayu, a friend of Rama’s father, attempts a rescue, but in a short fight, Jatayu is defeated. Before the giant bird’s death, Rama and Laksamana find him and discover Sita has been kidnapped! Rama prays for help and the white monkey warrior Hanoman appears with his troops. Rama asks him to save Sita and gives his ring to Hanoman to identify himself to Sita. At the palace, Rahwana’s niece Trijata and her sympathetic attendants try to comfort Sita until King Rahwana enters and tries to force Sita to marry him. His niece objects and convinces the king to wait until the next day. Hanoman arrives and storms into the palace. He meets Sita and Trijata and gives the ring to Sita and she, in return, gives Hanoman a golden flower in thanks. As they leave the palace, Hanoman destroys the garden of King Rahwana. The king’s demonic soldiers find Sita and Hanoman and a fight ensues, but Hanoman’s troops arrive in the nick of time and defeat Rahwana’s soldiers.
Trijata’s young attendants.
RAMAYANA BALLET 9
Trijata and her attendants.
King Rahwana approaches Trijata and Sita.
RAMAYANA BALLET 10
King Rahwana’s demonic soldiers.
Jatayu, the giant bird.
RAMAYANA BALLET 11
Hanoman, the loyal White Monkey Warrior.
The SACRED MONKEY FOREST of PADANGTEGAL 12 The monkeys in the Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal are long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicuiaris). Within long-tailed macaque societies, females are typically born into and remain with a single troop for life. In contrast, adult and sub-adult males may migrate between troops — young adult males typically leave their natal troop between the ages of 4 and 8 years. In order for a migrating adult or subadult male to be accepted into a new troop, migrating males must align themselves with a troop’s females and be accepted by those females. Therefore, long-tailed macaque societies or troops are made up of matrilines (matri- is a root word that means mother). TROOP CLASHES Four distinct troops live within the Sacred Monkey Forest, in overlapping ranges. This overlap occasionally causes inter-troop conflicts to break out, in which troops engage in violent physical clashes. Although it is rare for individual macaques to sustain life-threatening wounds as a result of taking part in an inter-troop clash, it is not uncommon for macaques to sustain wounds that leave permanent scars. THE SACRED FOREST The presence of sacred forest is a demonstration of the harmonious coexistence of humans and nature. In Bali, sanctuaries such as the Monkey Forest are usually in sacred village areas, often surrounded by temples. These cultural sanctuaries are not only an important part of Balinese heritage, but also an important part of everyday live. Temple festivals are regularly held for the villagers and the gods in such areas. BALINESE TEMPLES A Balinese temple is more than just a collection of pagodas and pavilions. The area enclosed by temple walls and the forest area surrounding it is sacred. These temples and the forest are essential for renewing contact with the spiritual world. The activities associated with these areas are essential in maintaining harmony between
The SACRED MONKEY FOREST of PADANGTEGAL humans, nature and the cosmos. Not only are ancestral spirits and gods given offerings and prayers, but also the spirits of trees and statues in the Monkey Forest are given offerings and prayers by local villagers HABITAT Throughout Bali, long-tailed macaques tend to stay within forested areas. However, they occasionally wander into rice fields or even village areas that are adjacent to the forest. Outside of forested areas, monkeys can become pests, and the Balinese tend to apply whatever means necessary to protect their crops and other property. RESEARCH The Sacred Monkey Forest’s long-tailed macaques are the subject of an ongoing research project that is being conducted by the Balinese Macaque Project. The project involves researchers from the United States, Guam, and the University of Udayana (Bali, Indonesia). To date, the Balinese Macaque Project has conducted research to determine the mating strategies, migration and range patterns, dominance ralationships, and habitat use of Balinese long-tailed macaques. The Balinese Macaque Project hopes that such research will facilitate the development of conservation strategies for these macaques and sites like the Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal. CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE Within Balinese Hinduism, monkeys can be the embodiment of both positive and negative forces. The dual nature of monkeys is especially reflected in the Ramayana (a very popular Indian epic poem). Within the Ramayana, Sita (the beloved bride of Rama) is abducted by Rawana (an evil king). Rama (an incarnation of Dewa Wisnu, or the Indian Vishnu) calls upon Sugriwa (king of the monkeys) and Hanoman (Sugriwa’s General) to help him retrieve Sita. However, within the Ramayana, there are also antagonist monkeys like Subali that attempt to assist Rawana. In the end, Hanoman, along with his monkey army, defeats Rawana’s evil forces and helps Rama to retrieve Sita.
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The SACRED MONKEY FOREST of PADANGTEGAL 14 GOOD and EVIL Because monkeys can embody both positive and negative forces, the Balinese both loathe and revere monkeys. Monkeys that occupy sacred Balinese Hindu temple sites (like the Sacred Monkey Forest) tend to be revered and protected by the Balinese. One reason for this is that monkeys, in the form of a Barong, are believed to be capable of guarding temple sites against evil spirits. However, the Balinese belief that monkeys can be negative in nature is reinforced when, for example, they raid rice fields or snatch items from souvenier shops. MACAQUE FAMILIES Adult male Balinese long-tailed macaques tend to be larger then females. In comparison to females, they have broader shoulders and larger canine teeth. In addition, females have facial hair that resembles a bear whereas males have more pronounced “mustaches.� Mother macaques can be very protective, and tourists should always be cautious when approaching infant macaques.
The SACRED MONKEY FOREST of PADANGTEGAL 15
The SACRED MONKEY FOREST of PADANGTEGAL 16
Even with signs posting warnings about the monkeys biting, tourists are encouraged by some employees to let them do what monkeys do.
Many weddings are held at the Monkey Forest, but actors also play the roles of newlyweds for tourists’ photos.
The SACRED MONKEY FOREST of PADANGTEGAL 17
MAS MASKMAKERS 18
World famous mask maker Ida Bagus Anom Suryawan (“Anom,” above) shows his affection for U.S. President Obama in many ways. The carving of Obama at right was commissioned by a Canadian tourist.
MAS MASKMAKERS 19
The mask above is of Barong, a popular Balinese mythical figure who protects villages and represents positive forces in the eternal battle between good and evil. This one is a tiger, but Barong can also be a bear or a dog-lion. The mask is made from cow leather adorned with gold leaf.
MAS MASKMAKERS 20
The mask carver’s son (with his own young son) being interviewed in his studio in the family compound.
Every morning the family prepares the day’s offerings. At right, they are making ready for an important ceremony requiring many small offerings.
MAS MASKMAKERS 21
Ida Ayu Kumalayoni (“Dayu”), the mask carver’s wife, has her own store (in her parents’ family compound) that produces many items, all hand carved and hand painted. She delivers worldwide. (The cat doorstops that were destined for Hawaii.)
MAS MASKMAKERS 22
MAS MASKMAKERS 23
This mask shop was dark, dusty, and overflowing with every kind of mask imaginable.
At left is a mask of Rangda, the terrible evil widow-witch of Balinese folklore.
ARMA — Agung Rai Museum of Art 24
The Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) was officially opened on June 9, 1996. ARMA’s permanent collection of paintings from the traditional to contemporary includes the following: • Classical Kamasan paintings on tree bark. • Masterpieces by Batuan artists of the 30’s and 40’s. • Paintings by the Javanese artist Raden Salech Syarif Bastaman and the German painter Walter Spies.
ARMA MUSEUM 25
The ARMA is more than just a museum, though. It’s a center for visual and performing arts, and provides opportunities for visitors to enjoy special temporary exhibitions; theatre performances; dance, music, and painting classes; a bookshop, library and reading room; cultural workshops, conferences, and seminars. Temporary exhibitions by both Indonesian and foreign artists include paintings, textiles, photography, installations and sculpture, with an emphasis on contemporary art.
At left is a detail of the large carving seen below.
ARMA MUSEUM — Children’s Dance Class 26
ARMA MUSEUM — Children’s Dance Class 27
ARMA MUSEUM — Children’s Dance Class 28
Some of the young girls a t the dance classes.
GOA GAJAH TEMPLE — Elephant Cave 29
The Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) complex is just two kilometers southeast of Ubud on the road to Bedulu. The ancient site is mentioned in the Javanese poem Desawarnana, written in 1365.
Shops—and shopping—surround many temples.
Tourist Police.
GOA GAJAH TEMPLE 30
The men at the entry of the temple were making bamboo mats and — judging by their smiles — having a good time.
There is always food for visitors to purchase.
GOA GAJAH TEMPLE 31
The temple complex’s pool (Patirthaan) is a place to take holy Tirtha water for Hindu ceremonies. Statues of female figures stand guard around the pools, which appear to have been built to ward off evil spirits. A number of the relics here strongly indicate that the site has a Buddhist as well as a Hindu past. Despite its great antiquity, some parts of the Goa Gajah complex were not excavated until the 1950s. The Holy Pool was covered by earth, and only re-discovered in 1954 by archaeologists from Bali’s Ancient Department.
GOA GAJAH TEMPLE 32
The centerpiece of the Goa Gajah temple complex is a cave dating back to the 11th century, the entrance of which (above) is an ornately carved demon’s mouth. Inside the cave are some fragmentary lingam and yoni (phallus and vagina) statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha (the elephant-headed son of Shiva).
GOA GAJAH TEMPLE 33
Nearby we visited with tattooed Komang (“Child Number 3”) and his friend Esther, a diamond python native to Australia.
BLANCO MUSEUM 34 The Blanco Museum celebrates the life and work of theatrical Spanish painter Antonio Blanco, the self-styled “Bali Dali” who lived in Bali for many years until his death in 1999. In addition to Blanco’s erotic art, the museum is notable for its extravagent buildings, extensive grounds, and collection of exotic birds.
BLANCO MUSEUM 35
One of the galleries displayed paintings in a living room setting.
The entrance to Blanco’s living quarters, with offerings of fresh fruit.
Blanco had many run-ins with the government due to his sculptures and paintings being considered pornographic.
BLANCO MUSEUM 36
Gilded statues like this one adorn the roof over the main gallery.
GUNUNG KAWI TEMPLE 37
Gunung Kawi is an 11th century temple complex in Tampaksiring, located northeast of Ubud on the river Pakrisan. It’s nearly 300 steps down a steep stone stairway to the river canyon and Gunung Kawi’s monuments.
GUNUNG KAWI TEMPLE 38
Along the way, vendors offer textiles, carvings, and cold drinks.
GUNUNG KAWI TEMPLE 39
GUNUNG KAWI TEMPLE 40
Ten rock-cut candi (shrines) stand in 23-foot high sheltered niches carved into the sheer cliff face. These royal tombs are thought to be dedicated to King Anak Wungsu and his favourite queens, and comprise one of Bali’s oldest and most important ancient sites.
LUWAK COFFEE @ Buana Amertha Sari 42
Luwak coffee is said to be the most exotic, rich, smooth, and excellent coffee in the world. Exotic? Definitely. To check on the other adjectives, you’ll have to taste it for yourself. The civet-like luwak (below) lives in trees and eats red coffee cherries. While in the luwak’s digestive tract, the coffee beans undergo a unique fermentation. When they leave the luwak’s body, they are collected from the forest floor, cleaned, dried, roasted ... and consumed by adventurous coffee connoisseurs.
LUWAK COFFEE 43
For more info, visit: www.basnaturebali.com
Young coffee roaster.
LUWAK COFFEE
BALI BIRD PARK 46
www.bali-bird-park.com
BALI BIRD PARK 47
The Toraja House near the middle of the park is from Toraja in central Sulawesi (an Indonesia Island) and is built without using any nails or pegs.
BALI REPTILE PARK 48
Komodo dragons —native to parts of Indonesia, though not to Bali — are both carniverous and cannibalistic, can run faster than a dog, and can easily kill a human. Males (which, by the way, have a penis that spits into two members) can grow to be nearly ten feet long and weigh 150 pounds. Ngurah, our excellent guide at the Bali Reptile Park, explained that the park’s Komodo dragon recognizes him (by smell) and therefore Ngurah can safely get into the enclosure with the dragon ... for a short time.
Ngurah mentioned that Komodo dragons have a soft throat and neck, and they know it, so if a person carries a large stick with a forked end, the dragon will be afraid and not attack.
BALI REPTILE PARK 49
Ngurah holds a water monitor. Visitors can play with the iguanas.
DOWNTOWN UBUD — Sania’s House Bungalows 50
This room goes for $20 US per night including breakfast.
Eat, Pray, Scrub 51
By Laurie McAndish King
I don’t normally swallow mysterious pills from strangers, but in Ubud I made an exception. This small-but-lively city is the health capital of Bali, and nearly every other shop offers massage, foot reflexology, spa services (“Be a Balinese Princess for a Day”), or organic health drinks based on carrot, apple and papaya juices, with substantial additions of ginger, mint, and lemon. The strangest of these treatments is one in which you submerge your afflicted body part in a large aquarium — in public — and allow a school of tiny “doctor fish” to nibble away at dead skin cells, bacteria, and whatever else happens to be clinging to your personal ecosystem. This procedure is said to “regenerate” your skin. Word was going around town that a German tourist had recently submerged his head in a tank, in hopes of curing the psoriasis on his scalp. But I had a different sort of health adventure in mind. Inspired by the Lonely Planet guidebook to Bali & Lombok, which devotes an entire page to “Eat, Pray, Love & Ubud,” I couldn’t resist tracking down one of the book’s star characters, herbal healer Wayan Nuriasih, and trying her jamu — traditional Indonesian homemade medicinal concoctions. I didn’t really have any medical complaints, and had read that tourists eager to experience Balinese healing were crowding out natives with serious health problems, so I had mixed feelings about taking up a healer’s time. But the Balinese recognize stress, worry, “busy minds,” and “revitalizing weary spirits” as legitimate concerns, so I rationalized my curiosity. Besides, I consider contributing to the local economy part of my responsibility as a tourist, and this was more appealing than heading home with a suitcase full of souvenirs. Wayan’s health drink-serving, palm-reading, futureforecasting, vitamin-prescribing, herbal-scrubbing, massage-giving bodywork shop wasn’t hard to find, even though its small sign was hidden in a tangle of half-dead bougainvillea. The establishment is tucked away on Jl Jembawan, a narrow, motor scooter-clogged lane just off Ubud’s main drag. Like many Balinese stores, this was an indoor-outdoor affair with no permanent front wall— a wise arrangement in such hot and humid climate.
The inside walls were painted Pepto-Bismol pink and hung with colorful textiles, red and gold patterned bunting, Hindu offering baskets, landscape paintings, an illustration of internal organs and chakras, and a large photo of Elizabeth Gilbert, the Eat, Pray, Love author. Two tables and three chairs, none matching, filled the room. The tables were smothered with papers, notebooks, incense sticks, stacks of fresh herbs, apothecary bottles, packets of tea, and colorful boxes of medications. To the right stood a tiny kitchen, just large enough for preparing the health drinks. The entire front of the shop opened directly onto the street. Lonely Planet’s writers had warned me against the potential hazards of EPL healers: ... You will be told a variation on the theme that you’re smart, beautiful, sexy, and will live to 101 or 105 etc. ... Note that it is important to have a very clear understanding of what you’re agreeing to, as it’s easy to commit to therapies that can cost US $50 or more. I arrived at 10:30 in the morning, hoping there would be plenty of time for the quickest (and least expensive) treatment before I met friends for lunch. Two young Dutch girls, blonde and tan, were ahead of me. (No locals stopped by during the hour-and-ahalf I was there, so I stopped worrying about monopolizing scarce healing resources.) I enjoyed an exceptionally healthy tasting drink while Wayan counseled one girl about her future: “In your life you will have five men love you. Three big love, one small love.” Mathematics was apparently not one of her strengths, but the girls didn’t seem to mind. “You come from eight generation reincarnation. Sometimes three generation. Sometimes seven generation. You will have two boyfriend at one time.” The girls giggled. “Yes, that could happen!” “Yes, two men will love you at same time,” Wayan pronounced. I decided I did not require a future reading. After she finished foretelling the Dutch girls’ futures, Wayan turned to me. The healer stands about 5’3” and has smooth light-coffee skin, glossy black hair, and full lips. She wore a thin T-shirt with a cartoon of a boy and girl holding hands and kissing, and the words Spring Love emblazoned in pink across the top. An Indonesian sarong and bright green ceremonial sash completed the outfit. (Continued)
Eat, Pray, Scrub 52
“You want treatment?” I explained that I had come for the body reading only, the one that was listed on her menu board for 300,000 rupia, or about $34. Wayan directed me to fill out a form with my name, address, and date and place of birth. Then she recited that information aloud, said several short prayers, and burned incense in a traditional palm-leaf offering basket filled with marigold petals and a bit of rice. Wayan asked me to stand and remove my accessories. Watch and earrings off. She stood facing me, lifting each of my hands so gently it felt as though they were floating. She examined both palms and my fingernails. She noted the lines on my right palm, made a quick sketch. Next, Wayan pulled down the skin in front of each of my eyes and studied the whites. She lifted my arms skyward and briefly raised my blouse up above my bra, then pulled it down again — this was in full view of the street. I began to wonder whether some aspect of my “healing” involved entertaining the neighbors. Wayan asked me to remove my sandals and place one foot on the chair in front of me. Then she felt my left knee and shin lightly, and pronounced that I had a hurt knee (I don’t) and a bad memory. (Maybe I did have a hurt knee, but I forgot?) In fact, Wayan recited a whole litany of problems I do not remember having been bothered by. It was a rapidfire diagnosis: Wayan: You have small gas, small bloating, yes? Me: No. Wayan paused. Me: Well, maybe once in awhile. Wayan: Does anyone in your family smoke? Me: No. Wayan: You have small smoke in your lungs. Do you take high blood pressure medication? Me: No. Wayan: Blood pressure low to medium. Don’t eat so many eggs. Blood not so clean. Need better circulation. Vitamin E low: Eat seaweed, beansprouts. Calcium low: Eat broccoli, long beans. Skin dry: Eat water spinach. Bad bones lead to arthritis, symptoms already show.
On this count, Wayan may have been right. I have, on at least five occasions in as many years, noticed a slight ache in my right pinky finger, which I believe could be the beginning of arthritis. After the body reading, it was time for my future reading. I declined; we went straight to the rejuvenating massage. Was it included in the treatment? “Yes, same 300,000 rupia.” Wayan handed me a gorgeous gold patterned sarong and told me to go upstairs and change. The upper floor was even more cramped and chaotic than the entry level: several massage tables, a bed made of multiple thin mattresses pushed together, papers, reference books, a desk covered with bottles of medicaments, tall stacks of meticulously folded sarongs and clothing across one whole wall, many framed certificates (including a massage therapy certification from Esalen). The blonde girl perched, half naked, in the middle of this chaos, looking somewhat bewildered. I think she had also been sent up to change, but v vv then forgotten. I undressed, wrapped the sarong around myself, and descended. An assistant led me through a tiny kitchen, counter stacked high with drying mismatched dishes, and into a cramped room labeled Toilet. Indeed it was. A turquoise ceramic squat toilet was installed in the far corner, next to a plastic chair on which I was to sit. An acrylic painting of a large red rose blossomed lushly over the toilet. I took my seat and rested my feet on a low stool that stuck out through the Toilet doorway. My view through that doorway of passersby on the street was excellent. Their view of me was no doubt entertaining. Two assistants began rubbing me vigorously with warm wet leaves, which quickly disintegrated to resemble soggy brown paper towels — the kind I associate with poorly maintained gas station restrooms. The assistants were both exceptionally buff middle-aged men, and I thought of the “Kuta Cowboys” I’d heard work southern Bali beaches, servicing vacationing ladies of a certain age. This must be where those Cowboys retired! One worked on my legs, the other on my neck and arms. Their scrubbing was so earnest and energetic that I began to think of exfoliation as an extreme sport. Wayan watched over the men closely, directing their work. I watched closely, too. Their tan, muscled forearms were impossible to ignore.
Eat, Pray, Scrub Wayan gave me a handful of the wet weeds and directed me to pull the front of my sarong out and rub my front with them, which I did. She also said, “Vagina bottom,” which I did not. We were still in full view of the street. My desire for rejuvenation does have its limits. Wayan handed me another bunch of herbs and told me to rub my face, Like makeup. Stronger, stronger. She mimed rubbing under my eyes, and I followed her instructions a bit dubiously. I had always heard one was to treat the sensitive under-eye skin with the utmost delicacy. One assistant poured something cold, wet, and lemony-smelling over my head. It occurred to me that the spectacle of an unsuspecting tourist — naked, except for a flimsy cloth wrap — being suddenly doused with cold liquid was not unlike that in a carnival where spectators can throw a ball at a target to plunge a person into a tank of water. Next, both Cowboys rubbed me with coarse salt. “Herbal scrub will make your skin not too dry. You will see change immediately,” Wayan said. My skin has always been soft; I doubted whether Wayan and her Cowboys could improve it. “How will I maintain this renewed health at home?” “You cannot get, must live here. Herbs are from India, South America, China. Hard to get. You must come here. Come again tomorrow if you are not balanced.” Then Wayan cracked herself up: “Come again tomorrow, pay again tomorrow!” she laughed. The xeroxed healthcare handouts I received cracked me up. One suggested, “For good circulation come here for healing massage.” Another contained several unfortunate typos: “Medicine before helling,” and “Other medicine for take way in one Fakage.” Wayan produced a glass of hot water along with two capsules labeled “Calcium” and seven round hard globes that looked like gigantic brown peppercorns. “Swallow these!” The big round pills were Penenang, for “not busy mind,” and they hurt going down. I also received a box of pills for “soft and beautiful skin,” which I took as a good sign: Wayan hadn’t prioritized my unclean blood, so maybe it wasn’t that big a deal after all. And finally, I got two
small packets of fresh Gotu Kola herb, to improve my memory. “It’s all over Internet,” Wayan explained. “You can look it up.” I thought we were finished, but Wayan said my body was not balance yet. She took me upstairs and I lay on a massage table, face up, with my head on a small pillow. She removed the sarong and began deep, firm massage on my belly with oil. Never have I been so thoroughly palpated — not even by my internist! When she had finished, Wayan swept a large red plastic rice spoon across my belly to remove the oil, and perhaps any toxins that might have been released in the massage process. She snapped the rice spoon with a practiced wrist at the end of each swipe. I dressed, smoothed my lemony wet hair, and met my friends for lunch. I didn’t feel rejuvenated, and they didn’t mention my appearance, so I guessed that the part about immediate transformation applied to my inner self. Either that, or my hair looked so bad they chose to avoid the topic. That night I slept very well (“not busy mind”). The next morning I was astounded to find that the dark semicircles that had hung below my eyes for years were completely gone. Vanished! The delicate skin had not been harmed by vigorous herbal scrubbing; instead it was pale, white, glowing. I looked ten years younger. The rest of my skin felt dramatically softer. Especially my legs, where the Cowboys had scrubbed most vigorously — they were so silky-smooth I could hardly stop touching them. Also, my legs were now covered with tiny flakes of exfoliated-but-still-attached skin, perfect for the “doctor fish” downtown. I knew exactly where my next adventure lay....
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DOWNTOWN UBUD — Weavers and Batik 54
DOWNTOWN UBUD — Artists Co-Operative 55
Boys start at an early age to learn the tradtiional sytle of painting.
Watercolorist Ries painted scenes from the countryside pictured on the left.
DOWNTOWN UBUD — SENIWATI — Women’s Art Gallery 56
Established in 1991, the Seniwati Gallery shows and sells works by more than 70 women artists from Indonesia, all residents of Bali. The paintings represent a wide variety of traditional and contemporary styles and techniques.
DOWNTOWN UBUD — SENIWATI — Women’s Art Gallery 57 The mission of the Seniwati Gallery is to provide income for women artists, to train and encourage young Balinese girls with creative talent, and to conduct workshops by overseas women artists. The gallery shop encourages village women to sell original craft works such as greeting cards, jewellery, T-shirts, essential oils and spices, pottery, and of course their well-crafted paintings.
www.seniwatigallery.com
DOWNTOWN UBUD — SENIWATI — Women’s Art Gallery 58
DOWNTOWN UBUD — SENIWATI — Women’s Art Gallery 59
PURI LUKISAN ART MUSEUM 60
The Museum Puri Lukisan’s collection includes classical Balinese painting (in a style influenced by shadow puppets), fine ink drawings, modern Balinese paintings, and beautiful wood carvings. Oddly, the complex also housed the Museum of Marketing 3.0.
An outdoor statue entwined in the roots of a nearby tree looks like it’s in bondage.
PURI LUKISAN ART MUSEUM 61
This is a musical instrument called a saron, part of a gamelan orchestra. It has bronze bars and is struck with a wooden mallet, similar to a xylophone.
Photography is not allowed inside, but here is what the grounds look like.
DOWNTOWN UBUD — Casa Luna 62
Water Spinach Soup.
Shrimp Salad.
Casa Luna, Bar Luna and Indus are all part of Casa Luna and close to each other in Ubud. The Honeymoon Bakery (another business owned by Casa Luna’s Janet De Neefe and husband Ketut) is situated near their Honeymoon Guesthouse, and the Casa Luna cooking school is just across the road at Second Honeymoon. They source the freshest local produce to create dishes as inspired as our exotic surroundings. Their story, spanning more than 20 years, is detailed in Fragrant Rice, a journey into the rich texture of Balinese life. It also includes delicious local recipes passed down through generations of Kethut’s family.
Pizza with Mushrooms.
One very tasty recipe is Acar, fresh carrot and cucumber salad. Grab 1 carrot, 2 cucumbers (peel and cut up both), 2 Tbs of w hite sugar, 1 tsp sea salt, 1 shallot (peeled and sliced), 1/2 cup rice vinegar, and one cup water. Mix the sugar and salt into the vegetables, crushing and bruising to release the f lavors. Add the vinegar and water. Put in the refrigerator to cool ... nice and tasty for a hot day. www.casalunabali.com
DOWNTOWN UBUD — Cafe
OM AD 63
Clockwise from top: Tofu, Chicken Sisit, Chicken Satay, Snapper Satay, Tempeh. Center: Long Beans.
Clockwise from top: Martuba with Pork, Grilled Fish Fillet in Banana Leaf, Smoked Chicken with Yellow Curry, Spring Roll, BBQ Pork. Center: Water Spinach.
RECIPE for BABI KLEAP Pork BBQ sauce Written by our waiter Wayan Yanta (pictured) without any quantities or cooking times. (Just go with whatever feels good to you.) Ingredients: –Big red chili –Shallot –Garlic –Coriander seed –Candlenut Blend above then add: –Tomato ketchup –Salt and pepper –Sweet soy sauce –Bay leaves (separate leaves) –Galangal –Fish sauce –Oyster sauce Method: 1. Boil all ingredients in water. 2. Simmer until melded. 3. Wait 1/2 day, then boil again and eat with pork.
UBUD — RIVER CAFE at VILLA NIRVANA 64
River Café features a seven-course vegetarian meal served on a banana leaf, along with classical recipes from India. Enjoy the non- traditional paintings and the river down below. As their literature says: “A healthy array of food to cleanse the body, calm the mind, and comfort the soul.”
Nasi Goreng (Fried Rice).
STREET FOOD 65
Bakso Ayam is a delicious chicken meatball soup. The serving below was 5,000 Rp (about 50¢). Delicious and safe to eat.
ON THE ROAD TO PURA PENATARAN AGUNG TEMPLE 66
Ceremonial processions — with their gorgeous offerings, colorful umbrellas, and participants dressed in finery — are part of everyday life in Bali.
Traffic comes to a standstill on the narrow mountain roads.
This funeral procession was more than 300 yards long, with multiple families participating.
ON THE ROAD TO PURA PENATARAN AGUNG TEMPLE 67
The family carries the funeral urn.
PURA PENATARAN AGUNG TEMPLE 68
Two guides waiting for the next group of visitors.
Preparing for a ceremony.
PURA PENATARAN AGUNG TEMPLE 69
The six-tiered Pura Penataran Agung (part of the Pura Besakih complex) is Bali’s largest and most important temple. With stone bases dating back at least 2,000 years, it may be the oldest, as well. We visited during a rainstorm, which, though very atmospheric, was not so good for photography.
PURA PENATARAN AGUNG TEMPLE 70
Pura Penataran Agung Temple is an active place. Everyone was friendly and did not mind two westerners photographing the service.
PURA PENATARAN AGUNG TEMPLE 71
The rain hid much of the view; however, what is there is magicial.
A female priest rests between cloudbursts.
TAMAN TIRTA GANGGA WATER PALACE 73
The Taman Tirta Gangga Water Palace near Amlapura was originally built in 1948 by the local rajah. Today it is an aquatic fantasy with several swimming pools and ornamental ponds filled with huge koi and lotus blossoms.
Many of the fountains are in the form of animals.
TAMAN TIRTA GANGGA WATER PALACE 74
These two characters are just outside the Water Palace guarding the entry to a restaurant. The traditional black and white “skirts,�called saput poleng, represent the balance between good and evil.
TAMAN TIRTA GANGGA WATER PALACE 75
TENGANAN — Old City Preserved
Welcome
Tenganan Village is home to the Bali Aga people — original Balinese inhabitants since before the 11th century wave of immigration. Magical (“never find sick”) double-ikat fabrics are produced and sold here; other offerings include traditional ikat, basket weaving, and palm leaf scrolls.
TENGANAN VILLAGE 77
Entering our guide Dika’s family compound (above). Inside the compound is a shrine with the ashes of their ancestors (below, right). Below is the path to the yard with an offering for protection. Watch your step.
TENGANAN VILLAGE 78
Tenganan Village grows its own cotton and produces dyes from local plants: indigo blue from a plant leaf, red from bark, and yellow from macadamia nut oil. Because the dyes are vegetable-based, the dying process can take several months for each color. Allowing several weeks for threads to dry naturally in the shade, the entire ikat dying process can require a year or more.
TENGANAN VILLAGE 79
Our guide, Nengah Mardika (“Dika�), took us to his family compound, where relatives used traditional looms to produce both single and double-ikat textiles.
TENGANAN VILLAGE 80
The scorpion (above) is one of Tenganan Village’s traditional motifs.
In double-ikat textiles (right and below), both warp and weft threads are dyed in patterns before weaving.
TENGANAN VILLAGE 81
Dika produces lontar — palm leaf scrolls with scrimshaw-style calligraphy (above right, and below).
ON THE ROAD 82
Gasoline (called bensin) for cars and scooters is sold just about everywhere due to the lack of stations. Bensin comes in liter and half-liter bottles. Nice thing is, you can see how clean the fuel is before filling your tank.
It’s very common to see entire families riding on one scooter — without helmets.
ON THE ROAD 83
In many places, farming is still done traditionally with oxen and a wooden plow.
SAYAN TERRACE RESORT 84
Sayan Terrace, where author Colin McPhee wrote A House in Bali.
SAYAN TERRACE RESORT 85
Some rooms have interesting names.
Every room has an outside area for relaxing.
Local children blow us a kiss.
Next door, the Four Seasons’ famous swimming pool (above). The river (below) is a short walk down the hill.
STATUES at SAYAN TERRACE RESORT
WEDDING at SAYAN TERRACE RESORT 87
We were invited to join a wedding celebration in the family compound behind Sayan Terrace. The bride’s green lace blouse (left) made her arms look tattooed.
FACES OF BALI 88
FACES OF BALI 89
DOWNTOWN UBUD MARKETPLACE 90
The market is busy from early in the morning unto late in the afternoon. Food vendors sell a wide va riey of vegetables, fish, and fruits.
Thousands of offerings are made each day.
DOWNTOWN UBUD MARKETPLACE 91
Textiles, batiks, food, and baskets on display in the ma rketplace.
DOWNTOWN UBUD MARKETPLACE 92
DOWNTOWN UBUD MARKETPLACE 93
Small delivery trucks carry amazing amounts of water, beer, and even live chickens.
Flowers for preparing offerings.
ON THE WAY TO AMED 94
The road to Amed passes over mountains with beautiful views of the ocean and landscapes.
AMED 95
Bedulu Bungalows, just past the village of Amed, is a comfortable resort. Nicely furnished thatched bungalows overlook the ocean, and the bathrooms and showers were the best we experienced. Only $25 US per day, including breakfast.
Lunch vegetable soup.
Lunch noodles.
Breakfast fruit plate.
Breakfast omlette.
AMED — Salt Makers 96
AMED — Salt Makers 97 Traditional salt makers work in “downtown� Amed. Workers carry about 130 gallons of sea water to the wood and bamboo funnels (left). The funnels are filled with clean mud, and both men and women stomp barefoot on the mixture of mud and seawater, filtering the saltwater through. The the saltwater then goes into a series of carved out palm tree trunks, split in half and hollowed out (below) called palungan. There it sits until the water evaporates leaving a clean, but cloudy, grey colored salt. Salt making only happens during the dry season, when the water evaporates relatively quickly. This salt making process results in a low yield, but produces tasty, high-quality salt that can be found in gourmet markets worldwide.
AMED — Fishermen and Their Boats 98
AMED — Fishermen and Their Boats 99
The fishermen go out every day before dawn and return in time for the morning market.
Repairing the mast using simple tools and nylon line without screws or glue.
The boats are wood, not fiberglass.
The Snake Fruit 100
Snakefruit — named because its skin resembles that of a snake — is a delicious, mild-flavored snack with an apple-like texture and pineapple-like taste.
Our taxi driver, Ida, helped us discover the great taste of the snakefruit.
Roadside Food
Fish for sale along the roadside in Amed.
ON THE ROAD 102
Western snacks have invaded just about everywhere.
Offerings like these are a common sight in Balinese rice fields.
ORGANIC WARUNG — Organic Restaurant 104
A walk through the paddy fields just outside Ubud ended with a nice suprise: an organic restaurant and a tour of its farm.
The (organic) food might not look that appetizing, but it was quite fresh and tasty.
The best education for a clever man can be found in travel. —Goethe
The authors and photographers at the Pura Penataran Agung Temple on a rainy September day.
This trip journal does not necessarily represent our personal opinions, nor can we confirm historical accuracy. Photographs are by Jim Shubin and Laurie McAndish King. Laurie McAndish King — writer/photographer www.laurieking.com I www.travelwritersnews.com laurie@destinationinsights.com Jim Shubin — designer/photographer www.shubindesign.com I www.destinationinsights.com jim@destinationinsights.com © 2011 Laurie McAndish King and Jim Shubin