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CONTENTS 2014 • VOLUME 11 • NO. 10
46 Waters of Another World
Paddling the Wolf River’s Ghost section. By Devin Greaney
52 Scaring Up Quail
Little “q” Ranch keeps quail hunting traditions alive. By Corey Latta
60 Haunted Hotels of New Orleans When those ghostly guests arrive. By Karen Ott Mayer
66 Bridge Day Celebration
New River Gorge invites people to... jump. By Jill Gleeson
departments 18 Living Well
Competition and adventure sports injury prevention. By Mark Temme, OrthoMemphis
20 Living Real
Keeping the family milk cow. By Andrea Brown Ross
22 Exploring Art
Beckoning clay with Mississippi’s Beckwith. By Corey Latta
26 Exploring Books
Through the lens of Kirkpatrick Wildlife Photography. By James Richardson
30 Exploring Cuisine
Savory sandbar cooking on the Mississippi. By Devin Greaney
34 Exploring Destinations
Tennessee’s Big South Fork beckons with grandeur. By Karen Ott Mayer
40 A Day Away…
Corinth, Mississippi
42 Greater Goods
Coats for cooler weather, Fall decor and Outdoors
72 Homegrown
Keeping your dog warm Hollywood style. By Andrea Brown Ross
74 In Good Spirits
The seasonal taste of Age Old Pumpkin. By Cheré Coen
76 Table Talk
Around the bend at Grenada’s 333. By Diane Donnelly
78 Exploring Events 80 Reflections
Intentional Shishitos, Accidental Curcubitas By Karen Ott Mayer
Little Red River -Adam Mitchell DeSoto 7
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editor’s note }
october
Heading outdoors As I write this month’s letter, I am in the midst of the Destination Downtown conference in Ocean Springs, Mississippi sponsored by the Mississippi Main Street Association. My last visit here was two weeks post-Katrina and all I can say is…what a difference a decade makes. The work done to entice folks to eat and play outdoors along the coast deserves our applause and admiration. Whether you’re up for one last swim at the beach or you’ve shifted gears into hiking mode, we’ve had all of you outdoor enthusiasts on our minds this month as we explore the Great Outdoors, from the Lakes and Highlands Region of Middle/East Tennessee to the sandbars of the Mississippi River. Feeling a bit chilled? Learn how to make River Rat Coffee with John Ruskey of Quapaw Canoe on page 30. His paddling skills are apparently only outdone by his sandbar cooking cuisine! We also caught up with an old friend, Mary Jane Butters, who is more than familiar with organic food for the trail. This time, however, her new book “Milk Cow Kitchen” takes a turn towards home, teaching us a thing or two about keeping a cow. If hunting is on your mind, follow Corey down to Oxford on page 52 where Josh is ready to “point” you and the dogs in the right direction for quail hunting on Little “q” Ranch. Devin reminds us that urban wilderness can still be found near big cities like Memphis as he takes us on
OCTOBER 2014 • Vol. 11 No.10
PUBLISHER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Adam Mitchell
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Paula Mitchell
EDITOR Karen Ott Mayer
PHOTOGRAPHY Devin Greaney Karen Ott Mayer Adam Mitchell
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS the Ghost section of the Wolf River. I paddled it years ago and the otherworld quality in this vast Cypress-rich section will captivate you. It’s hard not to talk about pumpkins in October and the folks at Crooked Letter Brewery have bottled the essence of the season with their Age Old Pumpkin. While small producers, they are proof that local Mississippi craft beer makers are making inroads into the market. Fall is here! We’re heading outdoors--and we hope you follow us. From the field,
Karen
on the cover This month we are thrilled to have Stephen Kirkpatrick’s eerie, but beautiful photograph “Swamp Maple” on our cover. Read more about the the Kirkpatrick’s of Madison, Mississippi on page 26.
Cheré Coen Diane Donnelly Jill Gleason Devin Greaney Mark Temme James Richardson Corey Latta Karen Ott Mayer Andrea Brown Ross
PUBLISHED BY Desoto Media Co.
2375 Memphis St. Ste 205 Hernando, MS 38632 662.429.4617 Fax 662.449.5813
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© 2014 DeSoto Media Co. DeSoto Magazine must give permission for any material contained herein to be reproduced in any manner. Any advertisements published in DeSoto Magazine do not constitute an endorsement of the advertiser’s services or products. DeSoto Magazine is published monthly by DeSoto Media Co. Parties interested in advertising should email paula@desotomag.com or call 662.429.4617. Visit us online at desotomagazine.com. DeSoto 9
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dear desoto } game birds Dear Readers: We love hearing from you. Drop us a line if you have comments, questions or suggestions related to our editorial features and/or departments. Email our editor, Karen, at karen@desotomag.com or write to: 2375 Memphis St., Ste 205, Hernando, MS 38632.
With
fall comes hunting! Dove flock the fields, and teal buzz like blue rockets through the flood lands. Our friends at Esperanza Outdoors in Glen Allan, Mississippi share their photos and invite you to join them for a truly unique wing shooting opportunity in the majestic Mississippi Delta, while staying at historic Linden Plantation.
Another sucessful teal hunt! - Frank FavaloraII and Todd Marshall Paden
teal! Great morning swatt ing bugs and shoot ing n. — Cameron Dinkins and Stewart Robinso
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DLT Slider. Panko fried dove and avocado topped with lettuce, roma tomatoes and jalapeno remoulade on toasted Hawaiian roll.
Esperanza Outdoors 1262 Lake Washington Road E. Glen Allan, Mississippi 38744 662-822-0485 www.EspOutdoors.com
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Phillips Comm College
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living well }
running
Running on Time By Mark Temme Photography courtesy of Rhodes Temme
A
s a marathon runner, triathlete and a physical therapist for over 20 years, I hold a perspective on injuries and prevention that, while perhaps runs deeper than most, doesn’t unfortunately eliminate my own risk of injury any more than the next runner.
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Experience, however, helps reduce those risks and allows me to share advice with others that may prove valuable. While we are seeing the return of a running boom similar to that of the 1970s, we’re now also seeing the adventure races where people are engaging in longer events, crossfit activities and extended runs. Aging catches us all, and over time, our bodies change structurally with the loss of muscle mass and strength. When thinking about injury prevention, the first word that comes to mind is repetition. I’m a marathon runner, but transitioned in my 40s to cross training because running causes significant repetitive stress—which can lead to injury. With events like the Ironman triathlon requiring challenging distances like 112 miles of biking followed by a marathon, we’re looking at athletes who may spend up to 17 hours straight in a competition. Endurance athletes have typically been averse to strength training. This type of training could be as simple as using body weight performing push-ups or pull-ups, or lunges a few times each week. Strength training and cross training are beneficial because they use different muscles in different ways. Second to training, nutrition plays a key part in improving performance and maintaining health--prior to and during competitions. With the longer endurance events that are popular now, it is important to focus on both the pre-workout meal and also replacing fluids and nutrition during the event. Unlike years ago, the market place is full of different drinks, bars and gels that are geared toward athletes. In addition, recovery periods cannot be discounted. A window of 30 minutes or so after activity allows you to replace spent sugars and give the body a period of absorption. Getting adequate sleep is also very important, especially during intense training periods. While moderate exercise is extremely important and beneficial to your health, recent research has indicated that extreme endurance athletes can actually damage their hearts through excessive stress. Some of these athletes can end up with life threatening cardiac conditions. It is therefore even more important to incorporate rest and recovery periods during training for and racing long events. If you’re considering a half- or full-marathon, or an adventure race, think about a longer time frame to plan, prepare and train incorporating rest, recovery and good nutritional habits. Most overuse injuries we see are related to running, rather than swimming or cycling. Running injuries affecting the hip, knee or foot are often related to training errors such as running too far, too hard and too often. Pain can be the trigger that tells us our body is overloaded. A practical measure is that if the pain happens in the midst of an activity and then goes away, that’s a warning sign of possible injury. Pain that continues after a run means it is time to start managing the injury with techniques such as rest, ice, compression and elevation. If pain persists, it’s time to see a professional. Acute care has become more available in our communities. OrthoMemphis’ OrthoStat®, our Acute Care Clinic immediately sees patients who believe they have suffered a broken bone, fracture or other injuries. We can also help patients connect with physical therapists in Tennessee. For those of us who enjoy the physical challenges of running, triathlons, and adventure sports, injuries and time itself can take us off our training path. With proper training, nutrition and moderation, however, we can stay on that path for more miles. Originally from Australia, Mark Temme, PT, OCS, Dip MDT, CMP joined OrthoMemphis in 1998. As a board certified orthopaedic physical therapy specialist since 2007, Mark currently serves as the Rehabilitation Director at Ortho Memphis and as a guest lecturer at the University of Tennessee Memphis Physical Therapy Program. When not working, Mark trains with his friends on the Los Locos Triathlon Team or spends time with his family.
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living real } maryjane’s farm
G ot Milk? Cow-panionship brings it to the table By Andrea Brown Ross
Photography courtesy of MaryJane Butters
A jersey cow is not necessarily the first animal that pops into someone’s mind when thinking of a family pet. Organic farmer and author MaryJane Butters, of Moscow, Idaho, however, believes differently and has published a book professing otherwise. “Milk Cow Kitchen”, Butters’ fifth book, promotes the pioneer spirit and simpler way of life that Butters enjoys, particularly her milk cow. “I wrote “Milk Cow Kitchen” to make the point that it wasn’t very long ago that most women had at least one milk cow they could see from their kitchen window. We’ve all seen the many photos of turn-of-the-century women 22 DeSoto
dressed in starched, white dresses posing with their cows-wanting and loving a milk cow is imbedded in our very DNA. We’ve slowly replaced cow pets with dogs and cats but a ‘cow’panion feeds you.” Growing up in Utah, Butters developed a love for the outdoors at an early age. As a young adult, she was one of the first three women hired as a wilderness ranger by the United States Forest Service in 1974. By the end of that decade, Butters had relocated to Idaho with her husband where they worked as ranch hands on a 30, 000 acre ranch. Children soon followed. In the following years,
Butters promoted environmentally sound practices while dreaming of having her own farm. She began experimenting with organic food options. In time, her dream became a reality. By 1990, Butters was marketing organic food to locals from her farm. As her business has flourished and her farm has gained national attention, Butters has expanded her line of products to a variety of organic items, such as bed sheets and lotions, and of course, books. Proclaimed “one part milk cow how-to, one part cookbook, and three parts play”, “Milk Cow Kitchen”, is not just for those who live in a rural area. Butters explains. “Just as backyard chickens have caught on in our country, I want to see family milk cows dotting the landscape again. My book shows readers exactly how to keep a pet cow on a suburban half acre or a backyard lot in town. There’s a new member on our Heritage Jersey Organization chat room who’s from Australia. Backyard cows are called “house cows” down under. Another HJO member from neighboring Washington refers to her milk cow as a “town cow”. I also show readers how it works to milk her only once per day. I milk my cows every day around 11 a.m. with a machine. It’s quick and easy. “ Butters elaborates on the benefits of having a “cow”panion. “A backyard cow in our modern-day era is more than just an adorable, unique pet. It’s about dairy products without growth hormones and routine antibiotics. I’ve never had a case of mastitis in my herd. It’s about food as pleasure. It’s about robust good health.” Billy Ray Brown of the Brown Family Dairy, in Oxford, Mississippi, comments on what his customers have said about his dairy’s product. “Our customers tell us it reminds them of the milk they used to drink years ago. We sell our milk in half-gallon glass bottles. After an initial deposit for a bottle, they return it each week for a fresh bottle of milk. They like that the milk stays fresh longer and knowing that the cows are treated well. Since 2009, we’ve gone from 4 jersey cows to 31 cows.” Butters discusses the business potential. “It can even be about making money. My book also tells readers how to turn their cow’s bounty into a business enterprise. “ Butters has also created Project F.A.R.M., First Class American Rural Made. Vendors from rural areas are able to advertise and sell their products via Butters’ website, Butters comments. “As rural communities fade and farmers continue to disappear from our landscape, we decided something must be done to support those struggling to maintain their rural lifestyle. That’s where Project F.A.R.M. comes in.” In addition to Project F.A.R.M., Butters also offers an opportunity to attend the Pay Dirt Farm School. “Pay Dirt Farm School is our non-profit educational program offering farm apprenticeships. We’ve just finished building our Pay Dirt classroom and now we’re working on the commercial kitchen end of it. We should be teaching again next summer 2015. The program provides practical experience for individuals who value common sense and introduces them to the operations of an organic farm.” Butters describes the mission of the school. “The school’s mission is to cultivate organic farmers and eaters. The school was founded with the belief that the elimination of deadly pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers, along with the maintenance of healthy living soil and the rebuilding of local communities, all play a major role in the development of individuals whose thoughts, dreams and actions create positive change.” Butters reiterates,” It’s not where you live, but how you live.”
To learn more about MaryJane Butter’s farm and available products, please visit maryjanesfarm.org. DeSoto 23
exploring art } william n. beckwith
William N. Beckwith
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11th Mississippi Infantry
Sculpting Society By Corey Latta Photography courtesy of gettysburgsculptures.com
William N. Beckwith’s critically celebrated sculpted bronzes span over 30 years, and now, he seeks to influence the greater world through his work. Nationally known and a local legend, Beckwith has produced work widely sought after, frequently displayed around the country from the Smithsonian to the National Museum of Art, and garnering accolades such as the “Governor’s Award of Excellence in the Arts” in 2001. However, Beckwith’s artistic career did not develop in the most traditional of ways. Beckwith never intended on pursuing art as either hobby or career. Remarkably, music led Beckwith to sculpting.
In 1966, 14-year old Beckwith wanted to play music. Recalling the spirit of that era, Beckwith explains. “Because of the Beetles and the Rolling Stones, everyone wanted to be in a garage band.” The beginning of Beckwith’s relationship to art would come when his friends formed a garage band. Unable to find a place to practice, Beckwith and musically ambitious pals luckily arranged to meet in a store owned by a friend’s mother, a store with studio space that would become the center of Mississippi’s sculpting art scene, where celebrated sculptor Leon Koury worked. When Beckwith walked into the small studio, he had no way of knowing that his entire life would take DeSoto 25
Self Portrait
new shape. Beckwith forgot any serious notion of achieving musical greatness when he first saw Koury’s sculptures. Beckwith says, “He put life in the clay. It changed me instantly. I wanted to learn how to do that.” Without money, Beckwith apprenticed himself to Koury by exchanging labor for whatever lesson Koury would give him. Beckwith’s introduction to sculpting came at an important vibrant time in the arts. Beckwith remembers. “The late 1960s and early 1970s were creative times. Amazing things were happening during that time, especially in Mississippi. But what was happening in Greenville didn’t get the press because it was in the South and not in New York.” Beckwith’s artistic legacy is impressive because of Koury’s training. Koury studied under the great Malvina Hoffman, author and sculptor best known for her “Hall of the Races of Mankind,” who studied directly under one of history’s greatest artists, French sculptor Auguste Rodin. To claim a mere three 26 DeSoto
degrees of separation from Rodin is nothing short of amazing and a testimony to the strength of Beckwith’s artistic lineage. Koury’s (Beckwith’s tutor) status in the arts grew considerably during his career, which enjoyed a host of highlights–from meeting Albert Einstein to attending the 1939 World Fair. Koury’s career ended in Greenville when Koury returned upon his father’s falling ill in the early 1960s. Among Koury’s many accomplishments, perhaps his bust of Faulkner remains most memorable. Beckwith spent his teenage years learning from Koury. After graduating high school, Beckwith set out to see the country. “I walked out the door and kept walking,” Beckwith recalls. “I hitchhiked west all the way to the Pacific.” Beckwith’s westward roving proved extraordinarily adventurous, and after being mugged three times in San Francisco, he about-faced toward the Atlantic. Beckwith’s eastern odyssey ended in Florida, where
he spent a stint working in a hot warehouse before heading back to Greenville, Miss., and eventually, Oxford, where he entered the University of Mississippi art department. After earning a BFA and MFA in sculpture from the University of Mississippi, Beckwith set out to build a foundry in Leon’s old studio in Greenville. The foundry was completed in 1976. Beckwith’s efforts saw the first commercial bronze foundry in the state. Beckwith worked for the university before quitting and being asked to return to improve the school’s sculpture program. Beckwith says, “I like challenges, so I took it on. I enjoyed working in the university. I enjoyed students. Their energy was wonderful.” Increasingly drawn to the studio, Beckwith recently retired from academia to focus more on studio work. Beckwith’s recent retirement from university life also makes space for more focused political purposes. Beckwith’s career coincided with decades of social change, varied forms of political unrest, and many a battle in ongoing culture wars. Here, at this stage of his career, Beckwith wants to speak into culture more intentionally. Beckwith says, “I’ve become a lot more politically aware, and whatever time I have left, I’ll spend making social commentary.” Beckwith believes the artist stands uniquely qualified to engage cultural change. For the artist, there has rarely been a riper time for social commentary. “It’s time for artists to look around,” Beckwith says. “I’ve been aware of culture wars my whole adult life. Long hair and left political leanings made you an outcast in the South. And if you had any empathy with civil rights, you were labeled. I saw families destroyed because of their empathy. I saw people’s lives destroyed from culture wars,” says Beckwith. Government initiatives like Nixon’s war on drugs became the means through which people were libeled against. Cultural issues like one’s opinions about alcohol and marijuana had the power to shape a community’s perception in the most injurious ways. Having lived and created through years of cultural upheavals, Beckwith imagines the artist’s role as one who reveals cultural wars while pushing against harmful cultural stigmas through art and commentary. It is Beckwith’s hope that through artistic output and insightful opinion, society itself might be shaped and sculpted.
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exploring books } double vision
Pearly Crescentspot & Dew
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Moose in Wonder Lake, Denali N.P., Alaska
D Double oubleV Vision ision By James Richardson
Photography courtesy of the Kirkpatricks
The Kirkpatricks of Madison, Mississippi make a powerful team -- Stephen, the nature photographer and his wife Marlo the writer. Before they partnered on their books, each had done their own thing. Stephen had published several coffee table books illustrated with his awe-inspiring photography. Marlo had written books independently. But their best work came from their creative partnership. Stephen spent his early years in Alaska and southern Louisiana. He grew up in the outdoors, cultivating a love for nature. He became a duck hunting guide when he was only 14 years old. “In 1981, my father gave me my first camera and I started taking it with me when I went hunting or fishing. Eventually, I put down my gun and my fishing pole and took only the camera.” Stephen, with his 30-plus years photography experience
has had his stock images published more than 3,500 times in books and magazines worldwide, including Audubon, Gray’s Sporting Journal, Natural History, Ducks Unlimited, Outdoor Photographer, BBC Wildlife, National Wildlife, and Sports Afield. He has published 11 solo pictorial coffee table books. His latest, “Sanctuary: Mississippi’s Coastal Plain” is about the rare and endangered species of that region. His other titles include “Among the Animals: Mississippi”, “Images of Madison County”, “Mississippi Impressions”, “Lost in the Amazon”, and “Romancing the Rain.” His last eight books were written by his wife, Marlo Carter Kirkpatrick. Marlo’s upbringing couldn’t have been any more opposite. “I grew up in Memphis, went to the University of Mississippi, got a degree in journalism and English, and the only skill I have, or have ever had, is writing. I cannot sing. I cannot cook. I cannot dance. So there was very little doubt as to what I was DeSoto 29
Riverbend Sunrise, Pearl River, MS
going to do for a living because I had no other options.” She was going to write. Stephen and Marlo met in 1996. He hired her to write a book for him called “To Catch the Wind”. He had already shot most of the photography for the book, but he wanted his journals as the basis for the text. So Marlo converted those journals into the manuscript for the book. Ultimately, Marlo went with Stephen on an expedition to the jungles of the Peruvian Amazon to work on the next book. There, they fell in love and returned to Peru in 1998 for their wedding ceremony at Machu Picchu. Asked how they determine new projects, Stephen explains. “We hear about new places from friends, or reading about them in magazines. We might meet someone that might ask if we have been to so-and-so. They will tell us about it and if it fits into the kind of stuff we like, we’ll come home, check it out, and make some plans.” Together Stephen and Marlo have been to many exciting locations worldwide: The Caribbean, Honduras, Central and South America, and the Middle East. Stephen’s latest project “On a Roll” is a work in progress. It is a long-term project because he wants to shoot it on only three rolls of film. “I still shoot a little film now but mostly I shoot digital. Some of the work I do almost demands digital. That’s how the world works now. Editors want everything quickly and they want huge amounts of shots and digital is more convenient for that.” Marlo says of her latest, “ I had a book come out last fall 30 DeSoto
called “It Happened in Mississippi”. It contained 30 chapters with 30 significant events in Mississippi history. Positive events and negative events. It was a very interesting project for me because I have done a lot of writing about Mississippi and I learned a lot of things I didn’t know while researching for the book. A lot of things that had national significance happened here.” Besides writing with Stephen, Marlo is actually a principle in an advertising agency called Kirkpatrick and Porch Creative. “People are more interested in the projects Stephen and I work on together, but we both work independently. It is more fun to work on things together.” Stephen does a couple of photography workshops a year which are open to anyone. In addition, he offers private workshops for people wanting to learn more about their camera, or are going on a trip and want to take better pictures. He does speaking engagements with audio visual presentations for conventions and organizations. They explain that people are always looking for something different to do and a photography workshop is an interesting thing for a group or family. For more information about a workshop, the Kirkpatricks welcome emails and phone calls.
Kirkpatrick Wildlife
Madison, Mississippi www.kirkpatrickwildlife.com kirkpatrickwildlife@comcast.net (601) 940-8301
“In 1981, my
father gave me my first camera and I started taking it with me when I went hunting or fishing. Eventually, I put down my gun and my fishing pole and took only the camera.� Black Bear Cub
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exploring cuisine } dining on the river
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DINING
ON THE
River
Story by Devin Greaney
Photography courtesy of Quapaw Canoe Company
I
It’s doubtful River Rat Coffee will ever be on the menu at Starbucks, but John Ruskey of Quapaw Canoe in Clarksdale, Mississippi has made a pot or two over the years. “We scoop a pot of the Mississippi River- sediment and all- boil it for about 15 minutes, throw in the grounds and let it settle out. We have people who don’t drink coffee but who come out with us and ask for it, especially when we use chicory,” says Ruskey. His paddling business may be headquartered in the Delta, but up and down the Mississippi and occasionally its tributaries is where he can be found with his canoes, kayaks and friends. Ruskey organizes everything from day trips to a six-week Saint Louis to the Gulf of Mexico voyage. And, he makes canoes. “You look at the history of America, when you get to a river, you had to take off your shoes and swim across or build a canoe, so we took up that fine tradition,” he says. The process does not look that different from the way the tribes in the area built their vessels starting from 500 to 1,000 years ago. He can takes a huge log and starts cutting away at the interior.
Ruskey can make anyone a proficient paddler. “I can send a group who have never paddled with two of my expert guides (who were trained by Quapaw) and they can have a safe journey on the biggest and some say most dangerous river in America,” says Ruskey. “When a kid learns to paddle his own canoe they are so proud of themselves. It’s like learning how to drive a car.” Many of those whom he teaches are from poor backgrounds. He teaches them not only a great hobby and geography of their biggest neighbor but life lessons that transcend economicsrespect for the river, respect for others and respect for yourself. DeSoto 33
“Next time life serves up a challenge you remember you were able to overcome that challenge,” he says. Another challenge: What to eat when on the river for days? Go to an outdoors store and there is a wall of nice airtight aluminum packages that look like they were designed for NASA and come as just-add-water breakfast, lunch and dinners. But that is not how people who tour with the Quapaw eat. The sandbars where they break for meals will never be confused with fine dining, but Ruskey makes sure everyone eats well. “We don’t like freeze dried, packaged or prepared. I would never serve something I wouldn’t want to eat myself,” he says. Instead they go to the store “with an open mind” thinking about what is in season, what is fresh and looks good. The farmers market is always a plus. “We don’t carry a stove. We cook all our food over a driftwood fire. A lot of our recipes are right on the coals like corn on the 34 DeSoto
cob ( which is best slightly burnt), potatoes, t-bone, tenderloin or catfish,” he says. A dutch oven is a plus in the winter. “You can take any meat and any combination of vegetables and cook it for about an hour and its good.” Another plus is a cast iron pan. But he has a real passion for catfish straight from the river. “Willow smoked catfish is our best recipe. We put the whole fish - head included- right on the coals on a bed of willows from the willow trees on the river and then put more willow and steam it and smoke it. You will have the best catfish and you don’t need any salts or spices,” he says. Fish from the Mississippi? A hundred years ago, yes, but now isn’t that river like something from the movie The Toxic Avenger? Are the catfish multicolored with three eyes and two tails? Not according to the the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. They conduct wildlife toxicology studies in the Vicksburg area which always shows the cleanest fish in Mississippi come out
of the Mississippi River. It’s size and the fact it is constantly fed from its many tributaries keeps fish away from industrial sites like Memphis or Baton Rouge --and safe to eat. With over 30 years with a paddle in his hand, Ruskey knows how to make paddlers comfortable, both on the water and at the sandbar dinner table.
www.island63.com
“You look at the history of America, when you get to a river, you had to take off your shoes and swim across or build a canoe,
so we took up that fine tradition,”
- John Ruskey
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exploring destinations } big south fork
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Endless Times at Tennessee’s Big South Fork Story and photos by Karen Ott Mayer, summitpost.org & mountainproject.com
A crisp clear morning found us at the head of the Twin Arches Trail with guide Bill Herman. He promised to take it easy as we descended over a mile into the valley below where our lunch awaited at Charit Creek Lodge, located in the heart of Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. We stopped often, not from fatigue, but to absorb the beauty of the sandstone arches and enormous rock formations looming over the trail. DeSoto 37
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“You can only get down to Charit Creek by walking, biking or riding a horse,” says Herman. Considering the slopes and the winding trails always pointing downwards, it was hard to imagine a mountain biker on the trail. Spread over 125,000 acres of land, Big South Fork wraps around the Cumberland River and its tributaries, offering grand vistas of the countryside. While some of us prefer the quiet hike to the primitive Charit Creek with no electricity, others prefer a little more excitement in their wilderness. “The park has amazing places where folks can hike, mountain bike, horseback ride, rock climb, camp, fish, hunt, view an unimpaired night sky, take a scenic train ride, attend a Ranger talk, stay at a historic lodge. And it is beautiful, quiet and a place to be cherished,” says Niki Stephanie Nicholas, superintendent at Big South Fork. Volunteers maintain and patrol the mountain bike trails that cover the 125,00 acres, and while it seems unlikely, mountain bikers dare the trails on a regular basis. One of the more popular choices, however, is horseback riding. With more than 200 miles of trails, horse lovers, riders can remain in the saddle as long as they please. Walking, we arrive at Charit Creek Lodge, a collection of log structures where guests can enjoy a complete disconnect from the world. Lanterns replace electricity. The sounds of rushing creek water replace traffic. The buildings, on the National Register of Historic Places are the oldest buildings still being used nationwide inside the park system. It’s easy to see the reasons Larry McMillan, the current concessionaire and owner of Southeast Pack Trips, decided to stay. “I’m originally from Kentucky and have been riding horses my whole life,” says McMillan. McMillan is the guide for Charit Creek Lodge and can accommodate any type of horse trip a guest envisions, from one afternoon to several nights on the trail, camping and riding. The lodge is open 12 months of the year and managed by Greg White and Jay Moore. On this brisk afternoon, we spent time in rocking chairs until lunch was served in the lodge. Wooden tables held hot soup and grilled sandwiches---a perfect pairing for the rustic setting. The lodge can accommodate up to 48 people and welcomes approximately 4,000 guests each year. DeSoto 39
For authentic saddle souls like McMillan, keeping Charit Creek open and operating became as personal as it gets. Having arrived over 20 years ago when Charit Creek was overgrown and unused, McMillan saw endless trails and wilderness with untapped potential and significance. “We want more people to know about us and also know that we can tailor your ride or visit in just about any way. People can bring their own horses or we have horses for riders of all experience levels.” Located near the Tennessee-Kentucky border, Big South Fork is one of many outdoor destinations in Middle East Tennessee that covers the Cumberland Gap, Norris Lake and sites throughout Campbell County offering recreation. At the Museum of Appalachia located 20 miles from Knoxville, it’s easy to slip back in time sitting by a roaring fire or exploring the numerous authentic buildings on the grounds. With lunch finished, our thoughts turned to the return hike up the trail. How difficult would this leg be? Despite the constant uphill climb, we found plenty of flat spots for resting and even stairs built into the hillside. Standing atop another sandstone arch surveying the landscape, Big South Fork unfolded before us. The endless views made each step more than worth it.
www.charitcreeklodge.com www.bigsouthforkpark.com www.southeastpacktrips.com
“The park has amazing places where folks can hike, mountain bike, horseback ride, rock climb, camp, fish, hunt, view an unimpaired night sky, take a scenic train ride, attend a Ranger talk, stay at a historic lodge. And it is beautiful, quiet and a place to be cherished,” - Niki Stephanie Nicholas 40 DeSoto
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C or int h, MS
9:00- Breakfast at Abe’s Gr ill, the oldest din The mo st de licious homemade biscuits. er on US Route 72. 10:00- Tour the Cr ossroads Museum at the Hi oric Dep ot. The museum is home to Nort h Mississippsti art fossils, depot and rai lro ad industr y history, Ciifacts inc lud ing vil War rel ics and aviat ion memorabilia. 12:00-Lunch at B orr oums Drug St ore, the old operation in Mississippi! The slugburger isesta dr ug st ore in continuous mi lkshake at the soda fountain. Be sure to chemust and of course a ck out the museum area. 2:00- Strol l though historic do wnto wn fil led h unique speci ality shop s. Everything from home decor, to clothingwit , ant iques, fur nit ure and gifts. 4:00- Tour the Civil War Interpret ive Center. Int role C ori nt h played in the Civil War. Featuereresst ing history of the a multi-med ia presentation of the Batt le of Shinteract ive exhibits, iloh and the Batt le of C ori nt h. 6:00- Enjoy a great dinner at P izza Gr ocery - a local favor ite. Great pizza, friend ly staf f and cozy atmo sphere. 7:00- Head over to C our t House Square for P where local bluegrass musicians jam. ickin’ on the Square,
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Corinth is often referred to as Mississippi’s Gateway City due to its location in the northeast corner of the state. It truly is a gateway into Mississippi’s history and culture. Cultural heritage sites abound in Corinth. It is home to four museums, a National Park Service Civil War Interpretive, pristine Civil War earthworks, historic neighborhoods, churches and cemeteries, and much more. Corinth’s tree-lined streets with eclectic shops and galleries, museums, and quaint restaurants set it apart from any other place. corinth.net crossroadsmuseum.com borroumsdrugstore.com pizzagrocery.com
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gift guide } coats
Coats for Cooler Nights Stone colored Jacket by Jack - $72 The Pink Zinnia 134 West Commerce St Hernando, MS 38632 P: 662.449.5533
Men’s Patagonia Better Sweater 1/4 Zip- $99 Better Sweater Full Zip- $139 SoCo 2521 Caffey St Hernando, MS 662.298.3493
Vest by Black Swan - $109 Center Stage 324 W Commerce St, Hernando, MS 662.429.5288
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Drake MST Eqwader Full Zip Max5 - $100 Bunker Boutique 2424 Mount Pleasant Rd, Hernando, MS 662.470.4843
gift guide } fall decor
Fall Decor Pumpkin Fall Towel - $18 Mimi’s on Main 432 West Main Street Senatobia, MS 662.562.8261
Fall Leaf Door Hanger - $44 Mimi’s on Main 432 West Main Street Senatobia, MS 662.562.8261
Metal Pumpkins by Roundtop Collection - $59 & $69 Bon Von Gift Shop 214 W Center St Hernando, MS 662.429.5266
Happy everything platter - $80. Scarecrow attachment - $15. Merry Magnolia 194 E Military Rd, Marion, AR 870.739.5579
Happy Halloween sign - $58 Paisley Pineapple 6515 Goodman Road, Suite 2 Olive Branch, MS 662.895.2111
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gift guide } outdoors
Outdoors Jackson SUPerFISHal Stand Up Paddle Board - $969.00 Outdoors Inc. 1710 Union Ave Memphis, TN 901.722.8988
Deluxe 12 Slot Decoy Bag. This slotted duck decoy bag is ideal for storing & transporting decoys. - $79 Orvis 4556 Poplar Ave, Memphis, TN 901.767.3592
Goal Zero Yeti 1250 Solar Generator with Cart - $1,399.99 Sportsman’s Warehouse 130 Marathon Way, Southhaven, MS 662.349.5500
Yeti Hopper-soft-sided cooler - $299 Tommy Bronson’s 964 June Rd, Memphis, TN 901.761.9133
Garmin Montana 650 Touchscreen GPS - $529.99 Sportsman’s Warehouse 130 Marathon Way, Southhaven, MS 662.349.5500
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Paddling with Ghosts Story and photography by Devin Greaney
A paddler’s paradise, the Wolf River, gurgles through the floodplains, forests and swamps of West Tennessee. It is a quiet river with almost no activity and even less development. Most surprising, it is less than an hour’s drive from most Memphians. As the river snakes along north Mississippi and into Tennessee, it meets LaGrange, a.k.a. the town that time forgot. Southern mansions and an old cemetery which holds more dead people than living residents in the town. Driving south from the town on Main Street, a dip 12,000 or so years in the making, drops two miles to a you-blink-you-miss-it driveway where most paddlers are introduced to a hauntingly beautiful section: The Ghost River. Covering 2,200 acres and running 14 miles long, this part of the river represents one of the last naturalized landscapes in the area. DeSoto 49
The Wolf River begins in Baker’s Pond in the Holly Springs National Forest in an area that long ago natives called “leaky land” when the post ice-age warming soaked the flat land with springs. The roughly 50-inch annual rainfall keeps the water table high and the land leaky. The story of the Wolf is almost as interesting as how it got its name. French explorers who journeyed the Mississippi went up a tributary they called the Margot River looking for a tribe they called the Loup Indians. They never found them, but Loup is French for Wolf so the name stuck. Moonshiners used the woods to make sippin’ whisky well away from the eyes of law enforcement. Before the railroad and during high water times, keelboats went as far as La Grange from the Mississippi River. General William Sherman had, according to a 1977 newspaper article, fortified La Grange and left two Union cannons sinking in the river. In 1951 Memphis, Fayette County, Tenn. and Benton County, Miss. teamed up for a watershed soil and conservation project in perhaps the first conservation effort along the river. Since then, other individuals and groups have advocated for this Mid-South treasure – The Wolf River Watershed Association starting in the 1950s, The Bluff City Canoe Club in the 1970s and in the Spring of 1985 the human face of the Wolf has been those faces of The Wolf River Conservancy whose members have taken land donations and made purchases to keep the Wolf wild. “As many nonprofits to survive you have to continue with your mission. We are a land trust, but to continue with that mission you need money,” says Cole, executive director since 2011. In the mid 1990s, the Ghost River area was almost forever changed when 4,000 acres in Fayette County, Tenn. was to be auctioned off, possibly to harvest timber and to become subdivisions. It would be hard to blame Memphians for not getting too excited about the river. A channeling project in the early 1960s gave the river the look of a big ditch. Before that, the river at Memphis was notorious for its pollution and foul smell which is why the Wolf was rechanneled away from downtown. Biologist Howard Vogel Jr explored the river at North Memphis in 1970 and called it “a dead body of water.” But photos and reporter’s accounts of the vibrant, verdant stream received extensive 50 DeSoto
coverage in The Commercial Appeal and the conservancy found a money angel in Millington businessman Babe Howard who put earnest money up in February 1995 to hold off the sale. Further donations and support from the state kept the Wolf of 1995 looking like the Wolf of 1895 and a visit in a canoe or kayak shows that is still the case almost 20 years later. The water one paddles percolates through the sands in the area of Tennessee about halfway between the Mississippi and the Tennessee Rivers, trickles slightly down and west, eventually finding its way underneath Memphis and becoming drinking water. “We are fortunate to have great water here but we can’t take that for granted,” Cole says. A canoe or kayak trip is the way to see the Wolf as there is not a walking trail. Stately trees tower over the banks. Forests extend seemingly nonstop into the countryside where wildlife live among supplies of food and water. Deer, coyote, otter and –possiblycougar live along the river. Cougar have not been confirmed though many in the area have reported them. Dawn Graves of Lakeland joined the Conservancy this summer on the trip she calls “breathtaking.” It was the first time for both her and boyfriend, Tony Buntyn. They joined up with a tour given by the group to its members. “I have wanted to paddle it for a couple of years and never knew about this group. It was a bit challenging in some parts as I am a novice, but so worth it.” The trip was beyond just a fun weekend. “The vegetation in the water coupled with the gnarled fallen wood and the knobs were other worldly almost. At Spirit Lake, it looked like the water went on and on. It was so quiet and tranquil. I enjoyed paddling and looking at all of the natural beauty. It was soul healing to just take it all in.” As for the name itself, Ghost River comes not from legends of a lost Civil War soldier walking the banks looking for his company or the screams of a horse thief who was hung from a tall oak. Rather, the river seems to disappear into a swamp like a ghost. The conservancy put up markers in 1990 because paddlers could run into dead ends for hours and miss the channel which can be about as wide as a bike trail. Exiting the thick swamps is a study in contrasts as the river opens into a lake with cypress growing out of the water. What kind of people join the conservancy? “From all walks of life. From multi-millionaires to downhome
Heuy’s
Wilson Furnnitu
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people,� Cole says Most paddlers get off the river at Moscow, Tenn. While just a few miles long as a duck flies, there is not one straight line in this river, so floating this section takes roughly six hours via paddle power. As exhausting as the journey can be, it is rewarding. Big things, like the endless forests where most paddlers stop for lunch, stay with you. So do the fall colors and the spring rebirth. There are little things, too. A stump where an otter had his dinner of mussels. And the trash? It is almost nonexistent. Tourists and locals take pride in this respite. Pulling the canoe onto the gravel at the Bateman Road take in-takeout, paddlers are generally too exhausted to think about the next float trip. During this seven and half miles of river, paddlers share the same experiences of Native Americans, farmers, moonshiners, animals and nature lovers; yet, this place remains relatively unknown by over one million people within an hour’s drive of the place. The thoughts, images and connections made on this spiritual river can be better captured through multiple visits.
www.wolfriver.org www.ghostriverrentals.com
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Scaring Up Quail Hunts at Oxford’s Little “q” Ranch Honor Tradition
Story by Corey Latta
Photos courtesy of Little “q” Ranch
Just outside of Oxford, Mississippi the Little “q” Ranch sprawls across 125 acres of scenic pastures and beautiful woodland, space enough for the preservation of the time-honored southern tradition:
Hunting for bobwhite quail.
Historically, bobwhite quail hunting epitomized the southern man’s outdoor leisurely life of gentility. North Mississippi’s once dense quail population provided hunters of high social echelons with a rich sporting culture. The Little “q”–amply stocked with birds, dogs, and its own covey of Southern gaming culture–continues the tradition of prize bird hunting.
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With a season stretched from October 1st to April 30th, the Little “q” hosts hunters from all over the country, providing each visitor with one of the South’s most authentic quail hunting experiences. Joshua and Sally Quong own and operate the hunting preserve, along with the guidance of experienced longtime quail hunter and Mississippi native, Col. Orville Robertson. For five years the Quongs have welcomed hunters for half- and full day hunts. As a part of the standard half-day hunt package, patrons enjoy a guided experience, a home-cooked lunch, and the social experience of bird hunting. “Bird hunting is so social. Between your partners and using hunting dogs, the social experience is half the hunt,” Quong says. Quail hunting’s social element is an immeasurably valuable part of Little “q” Ranch’s culture. Experienced and novice hunters enjoy the benefit of Joshua Quong and Robertson’s guidance, as well as the companionship of Little q’s many Pointers. Essential to quail hunting, dogs lead hunters to the quail coveys, “pointing” frozen still when they smell birds hidden in patches of grass. Pointers are often the breed of choice, usually either English and German shorthaired pointers, though Setters are often used too. “These are highly capable intelligent animals. They have a tremendous sense of smell, and after only three or four hunts, 56 DeSoto
they’re trained. Finding birds is in their blood. They were born to run, born to hunt,” says Robertson. Conveniently, you don’t need your own dogs to hunt at the Little “q.” The ranch uses half a dozen well-trained Pointers that are certain to lock onto the covey. Hunters need only wait, aim, and shoot. With experienced dogs and experienced guides, hunts become more concentrated and effective. “What we provide are guided experiences that allow you to get the most out of the hunt. Our total service is much more pleasing to the hunter who might not be that experienced or might not have their own dogs,” says Quong. That total service extends beyond the actual hunt. Half-day hunters leave the Little “q” with their quail field dressed and ready to cook, but not before sitting down to eat a hot lunch out of Sally Quong’s kitchen. “These hunters spend all day walking fields looking for birds, so they love it when lunch time rolls around,” Quong comments. That’s the real charm of the Little “q.” It’s that distinctly human element of southern hospitality. The Quongs and Robertson provide more than a bird hunt. The Little “q” provides a culture of gentleman’s gaming and friendly community. The rich tradition of quail hunting resides just off the beaten paths of Oxford through the inviting gates of the Little “q.” The ability to create an inviting space where hunters can
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participate in a rich southern tradition has contributed largely to the Little “q” Ranch’s undeniable success. In five years of operation, the Little “q” has gone from just 13 hunts in the first year to 72 hunts last year. “We love it. We love having people here, showing them what quail hunting is all about, and for some, teaching them a little about outdoor life,” Quong says. Not only do patrons experience time honored quail culture, they also leave the Little “q” with a memorable, fun experience of friendly outdoorsmanship. The Little “q” offers half and full-day hunts with the option of lodging. Gift cards are available.
Little “q” Ranch 1018 County Road 251 Lafayette County, MS 38871 Phone: 662-801-5764 E-mail: info@littleqranch.com
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“Bird hunting
is so social.
Between your partners & using hunting dogs,
the social experience is half the
hunt.�
Joshua Quong DeSoto 59
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Haunted
N EW O RLEANS Story by Karen Ott Mayer
Photography courtesy of the New Orleans Hotel Collection
It happens more at this time of year than any other time. That feeling, a sliver up the spine or a shiver. What was it? In New Orleans, which has been described more than once as the most haunted city in America, these sensations run wild nearly all year long. With Jackson Square dotted with the twilight Tarot Card readers and palm readers squeezed between voo doo barbecue shops and dark alleys, New Orleanians seem uniquely qualified to speak about such things as the inexplicable. After all, this is also the city that holds picnics in cemeteries to visit with the dead and whose vibrant natives have endured revolving catastrophes with immeasurable resiliency‌ and perhaps some level of alcohol. DeSoto 63
Is it real, all this ghost talk? Or does it simply rekindle those exciting youthful feelings of false fears and the unknown? It depends on the person, and in New Orleans, certainly the place. “I’ll just say that we have reported ghost sightings long before it became fashionable to have a ghost,” says Marc Becker, Area Director of Sales & Marketing for The New Orleans Hotel Collection. The collection includes the Audubon Cottages, the Bourbon Orleans Hotel, the Crowne Plaza Hotel New Orleans Airport, the Dauphine Orleans Hotel, Hotel Le Marais and Hotel Mazarin. Of their hotels, the recently-renovated Bourbon Orleans Hotel and the Dauphine Orleans Hotel boast the longest haunted history. “We have had many paranormal investigators at the Bourbon in the past. Apparently, they’ve told us we have more activity on the third and sixth floors,” says Becker. With a long, rich history, the Bourbon Orleans’ ballroom opened in 1817 to host New Orleans’ elite. Over the years, reports of a ghostly mistress dancing in the ballroom have rivaled that of a wounded soldier’s footsteps in the corridors 64 DeSoto
and the sounds of his dragging sword. In 1881, the ballroom was converted to a convent for the Sisters of the Holy Family. Despite silence from nuns, it’s reported one committed suicide on the grounds--as guests on the sixth floor will attest with visions of a nun wearing a black habit. So what exactly do people report? When a group of bloggers recently visited, one lady in particular requested the most haunted room in the hotel. “We ran out of rooms at the Audubon Cottages, so we had to move some to the Bourbon,” says Becker. The next morning, the blogger who requested the haunted room said she slept all night and saw no activity. “Another girl came to us and asked to be moved out of the hotel because she said a little girl kept her up all night by turning the T.V. on and off. She had seen her several times. The guest wasn’t scared; she just said she needed to get some sleep,” recalls Becker. Waiter Philip Elrod who works at the hotel’s restaurant Roux doesn’t always believe the stories. “I believe in faulty wiring, noisy walls...although I heard the ghosts haunt only
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blond women on the sixth floor!” Booking agents like Nancy Ott helps visitors find that particular haunt, whether it’s a ghost and vampire tour or a cemetery tour. “You might not always see something but when you take pictures, you’ll see strange images, lights and orbs in the pictures,” says Ott. At the Dauphine Orleans Hotel, four persistent stories have been passed down and researched repeatedly. The stories revolve around the bar, May Baily’s Place, where May served fine wines--and fine women. One of the long-gone working girls purportedly rearranges liquor bottles. In another story, a worried Confederate General paces about the courtyard, as documented by ghost hunters. The third character, Millie, May’s younger sister pressed into a life of prostitution, met a soldier who proposed. Naturally, she sewed her own wedding dress. On the day of her pending nuptials, her intended was shot in a gambling dispute-and she never recovered. Today, the lost bride still supposedly wanders the hotel and bar looking for lost love. Finally, a young dancing girl has been seen in several locations, not just the hotel. Happy, she appears to dance without touching the floor, as reported by guests returning to the hotel late at night. Back at the Bourbon, talk still revolves around the Orleans Ballroom Dancer. “The ballroom has been haunted for well over 100 years,” says Becker. Even the young Elrod gives slight credence to this story. “While I don’t believe in ghosts, I will say the ballroom is always about 10 degrees cooler than anywhere else in the hotel.”
Author’s note:
While researching this story, I met Nancy Ott entirely by chance at her tour shop in New Orleans. We remarked that we had the same last name. When I told her my first name, she paused. “I had a niece named Karen Ott.” We both agreed... there’s something spooky about the coincidental meeting…
www.hauntedhistorytours.com www.liverytours.com
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In 1812, General Pakenham had his final supper before heading to battle in the War of 1812. Before it was over, the young General lost his head--literally. To commemorate his short life--and final supper--the New Orleans Hotel Collection presents “General Pakenham’s Final Supper” on January 6, 2015. To be held in conjunction with the reenactment of The Battle of New Orleans, the entire 5-day package from January 6 - 10 includes a period five-course, candlelight dinner in the ballroom--in period dress-- and a ghost tour for two. For complete schedule and event details, visit www.neworleanshotelcollection. com/1812.
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Just because your friends
jump...
New River Gorge By Jill Gleeson Photos courtesy of Jill Gleeson, Wild Blue Adventure Company
It’s a sunny, warm October afternoon in southern West Virginia – the third Saturday in October to be precise. Leaves blaze golden and red as the trees prepare for their annual slumber. This thick, vibrant foliage lines a deep gorge, its sides rising sharply toward the sky.
I
At the bottom of this slice in the earth gurgles a briskly-flowing river navigated by a few groups of rafters. Far overhead, at the top, stretches the graceful arc of a bridge, silver in the sunlight. Suddenly from this steel span leaps a figure. He plummets fast toward the water for a few spine-tingling seconds before a bloom of rainbow, striped fabric puffs open over his head. As the parachute slows his descent, another figure leaps from the bridge, and then another as those watching explode into cheers. Welcome to Bridge Day, the biggest extreme sports event in the world. Celebrating its 35th anniversary on October 18, Bridge Day draws upwards of 100,000 people annually to the New River DeSoto Gorge.69
Located near Fayetteville, West Virginia in the Appalachian Mountains, the bridge is an engineering marvel worth celebrating. A remarkable 3,030 feet in length, it was the longest arch bridge in the world upon completion in 1977. At 876 feet high, it’s currently the third highest in the U.S. And that breathtakingly lovely gorge it spans? It is estimated to be 345 million years old and carved by what may have been North America’s first river. Perhaps the wildest, most rugged stretch of land east of the Mississippi, the Bridge Day locale is part of the festival’s allure. “The New River Gorge area is the perfect place for West Virginia’s largest one day festival,” noted Becky Sullivan, membership and group director for Visit Southern West Virginia. “It is a beautiful outdoor playground for adventurers and has beautiful fall foliage for the scenic viewers.” And then there’s the chance to legally jump off, rappel from, zip line down, or even just stroll over a span closed 364 days of the year to just about everything but automobiles and trucks. On Bridge Day, traffic is shut down and the structure is opened from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. These 450 pre-registered BASE jumpers from more than 10 countries and 40 states will make an average of two to three jumps from the bridge’s middle as they leap, somersault and even catapult into thin air. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge, teams of equally audacious souls descend and ascend via fixed ropes strung from the catwalk. These real-life Spidermen and women rappel 850 feet straight down. Between the rappelers and the BASE jumpers it’s a heck of a show, attracting thousands of spectators and hundreds of vendors, hawking everything from funnel 70 DeSoto
cakes to handmade goods, kabobs to sunglasses. For those who’d like to get in on the action but don’t have the requisite skill set or experience to rappel or BASE jump, Bridge Day holds other delights. Bridge Walk has been giving guided tours of the catwalk underneath the New River Gorge Bridge for four years and will continue to offer them on Bridge Day. Visitors are strapped into safety harnesses while traversing the catwalk, but at 851 feet up the tour’s still guaranteed to raise neck hairs. Even more electrifying is the High Line, which operates only on Bridge Day. No experience is necessary to ride this 700-foot zip line that descends to the gorge’s bottom from the bridge’s structural beams, but a heaping dose of chutzpah helps. Although screams sometimes echo from the High Line, nearly every rider ends the experience with an exhilarating grin, according to Benjy Simpson, who runs Bridge Walk and has coordinated the Bridge Day rappel and High Line since 1992. “Every year I anxiously look forward to sharing the underside of the New River Gorge Bridge, the fall colors of the New River Gorge, and the excitement of rappelling and/or doing a high line from the catwalk,” says Simpson. “The number one reason we do this is the smiles we see!” If all of this isn’t enough outdoor escapades for one getaway, the New River Gorge area is home to some of the best whitewater in North America. The raucous New itself is one of the most popular runs in the country, while during September and October’s dam release season, the nearby Gauley River turns into an infamously extreme chain of epic Class V+ rapids. In addition, the Gorge is packed with stellar opportunities
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to rock climb, fish, zip line, hike and ride horses, ATVs and mountain bikes. Even more unique is the chance to see the Gorge upside down, from the cockpit of a WWII-era biplane. Christian Kappler, the dashing proprietor and pilot of Wild Blue Adventure Company, is happy to take passengers for a scenic sightseeing flight in his beautiful, bright yellow Stearman. True adventurers, however, will want to book the aeronautic option and flit across the sky in barrel rolls, S-turns and those tummyflipping loop-de-dips. T he Gorge is so chock full of adventurous pursuits that resident Geoff Heeter, who spent his youth guiding river trips in Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon, declares of his home, “West Virginia is as far West as you need to go.” Heeter, owner of Opossum Creek Retreat, a rustic string of cabins that is among the area’s best lodging, added, “Everything is in close proximity here. Things are more spread out in the West. Here, you can mountain bike down to the river, go kayaking and then end the day rock climbing. Bridge Day is great, but nobody should come just for it. Come early and enjoy all these other activities, and then climax your visit with Bridge Day.” Bridge Day: officialbridgeday.com or 800-927-0263 Bridge Walk: www.bridgewalk.com or 304-574-1300 Rafting & Adventure Companies: River Expeditions – raftinginfo.com or 800-463-9873. Adventures on the Gorge - adventuresonthegorge.com or 855-379-8738. For a more complete listing or further info, visit newrivergorgecvb.com or phone 800-927-0263, and visitwv.com or 800-847-4898. Wild Blue Adventure Company: wildblueadventurecompany.com or 304-574-1150 Opossum Creek Retreat: www.opossumcreek.com or 888-488-4836 Exhibition Coal Mine: beckleymine.com 304-256-1747 Tug Valley Chamber of Commerce: www.tugvalleychamber.com 304-235-5240
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homegrown } hollywood feed dog beds
Canine Comforts
A
Story by Andrea Brown Ross Photos courtesy of Hollywood Feed & Tony Clark
Although Hollywood Feed began as a local feed store in Midtown Memphis, Tennessee, it has evolved into a pet store providing a variety of products and services at several locations throughout the South. One product in which they are particularly proud is the Mississippi made dog beds. Anne Ross, buyer and market analyst for Hollywood Feed, explains how the project came to be located in Tupelo, Mississippi. “Manufacturing our dog beds was one of the most difficult challenges we faced upon starting this project. We were insistent that it be 100 percent U.S.A made, but those sources can be difficult to find. We bought leftover inventory from two Mississippi women who were overwhelmed by their dog bed hobby and wanted to keep their careers going.” The connection gave Hollywood a start in the right direction by introducing them to the Tupelo area, and its history in the textile and furniture industry. 74 DeSoto
“Tupelo was a perfect fit for our bed project and there were a lot of hands ready to help, so that’s where we decided to manufacture.” Hollywood Feed prides themselves on using American-made products and it’s really a collaborative process. “Our dog beds are put together using parts from all over the country. Sherman, Miss. provides us with cotton fabrics, while the Carolinas produce our microfibers. Memphis, Tenn. prints our tags and law labels, and our zippers come from Georgia. Our patch source is up I-55 in Ozark, Missouri at the shop of a wholesale custom patch maker, one of a handful left in the country. When all of the pieces come together, a cut & sew shop in Verona, Miss. stitches it all together. The cut and sew shop we have partnered with currently has 18 employees, six of whom were just hired in July to keep up with the increasing demand for our dog beds!” Ross describes what makes their product special. “I think our product is unique, because it’s made close to home.
Few American manufacturers are able to compete against overseas manufacturing. We found a way to do just that, while still maintaining high standards of quality. When you buy one of our beds, you create more job opportunities in the communities around you and help maintain existing American jobs.” Meeting customer expectations is important, as Ross explains. “When our customers buy our dog beds, they expect a quality product that’s made in Mississippi, just like the patch reads. Most of all, though, I think customers expect to see our story, and that we are continuing to make a difference in our communities. Our customers want to know about the bed company, and our employees are so eager to share the excitement with them.” Customer Tony Clark, of Southaven, Miss. comments on the product’s durability. “If you want a dog bed that is well made, that lasts, that dogs love, that looks good and that is made in the USA then this Mississippi Made Donut Dog Bed is the one. I was a little apprehensive considering the cost, so I purchased one bed to give it a try, so glad I did. They are actually cheaper, since I am no longer replacing dog beds every few months. I have had the two pictured for almost a year, and they still look new. The sides keep their shape even with 140lb dogs and the heavy material really stands up to regular washing. They have to share for now until I get another. With having three large dogs, whatever I buy has to work and last. These do! “ Clark explains why he chooses to shop Hollywood Feed, for his pets. “I really appreciate Hollywood Feed bringing me quality items, well worth the money. The added bonus is they are locally owned, stand behind what they sell, and source local whenever possible...that makes a big difference to me.”
To learn more Hollywood Feed’s dog beds, as well as their other products, visit hollywoodfeed.com.
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in good spirts } pumpkin ale
Age Old Pumpkin Brewed at Crooked Letter Brewing Company By Cheré Coen
Photography by Karren Ott Mayer
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” 76 DeSoto
- Benjamin Franklin
a
utumn arrives and those lighter, refreshing beers so spot-on in the middle of summer just don’t match the mood anymore. Time to try something heartier. Crooked Letter Brewing Company in Ocean Springs has produced Age Old Pumpkin, a sweet, full-bodied seasonal stout that screams October. “It’s a very rich, sweet stout,” says Paul Blacksmith, Crooked Letter owner and brewmaster, adding with a laugh, “It’s made with pumpkin and spices and that’s really all I’m allowed to say.” The beer is aged for several weeks, with the final product invoking images of pumpkin pie, Blacksmith says. “Fall beers are supposed to be filling and this is like eating a slice of pumpkin pie. We’re very happy with the way it came out.” The beer’s description, along with witchy original artwork by Alabama-born Michael Pukac, reflects the attitude of the Mississippi Coast brewery: “This sweet and full bodied stout, complex in every area of taste and aroma, may just be exactly what you’re looking for as the summer fades away into fall, and winter is sneaking … Wait. What are we saying here? There are no seasons in the Crooked Letter State.” “We don’t like to take ourselves too terribly serious, as you can see,” Blacksmith says. Age Old Pumpkin was produced for the first time last year to coincide with the brewery’s haunted tours in late October. “Last year was such a success — we had 300 people,” Blacksmith said. “And it was year one.” This year, the brewery is moving from a 10-gallon batch to 500 gallons, available throughout the fall and throughout Mississippi and South Louisiana. Also back this year will be the “Blood Pints: Haunted Brewery Tours 2014” from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Oct. 24, 25 and 31. “Count Vorlauf ” will be the tour guide leading visitors through the brewery where they will witness “The Grain and Bone Crusher,” “The Brewhouse Witch,” “The Fermenting Zombies” and much more. Tours are $10 for adults ages 21 and older and the price includes a limited edition glass and Halloween samples. For those under 21, visiting with an adult, admission is free.
Since Age Old Pumpkin is a stout, the fall brew pairs well with desserts, Blacksmith said. He especially loves the beer, traditionally served slightly warm, as an ice cream float. “It makes a very nice fall ice cream float,” he said. “Pumpkin pie float is what you’d call it.”
Age Old Pumpkin Float
3 scoops of vanilla ice cream 6 ounces of Crooked Letter Age Old Pumpkin Stout 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
Directions: Add ice cream to glass first. Pour beer slowly over the ice cream. Add cinnamon. Use straw and drink up!
“It makes a very nice fall ice cream float,” he said.
“Pumpkin pie float is what you’d call it.”
Paul Blacksmith
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table talk } 333
3- on3 3333 By Diane Donnelly
Photography by Karren Ott Mayer
Anyone who has eaten at Grenada’s 333 knows three things about it: Catfish, turnip greens and desserts. Beyond the food, the atmosphere and walls reflect a funky, artistic bent that can only be attributed to an artistic soul.
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hen owner Allyson Ross Worsham lived in Memphis for 12 years where she received her Master of Fine Arts degree from the Memphis College of Art, she worked with graduate students, and taught art at the University of Memphis. Running a local restaurant wasn’t exactly on her radar. She inherited the property that is now “The 333 Restaurant” from Boo Corbett who ran The Green Door Tavern in that location.
“I had the patio built with the bar and stage and fencing. Boo designed the physical layout and the kitchen. Later, I added the dishwashing shed and walk-in cooler. We created two dining rooms. Boo stayed one year, and a few months after Katrina hit, he opened a coast hotel. Wednesday, he told me he was leaving; Sunday, he was gone, telling me,‘keep everything’,” Worsham says Allyson’s father, Jimmy S. Ross, and her husband, Cary Worsham, were on the Gulf Coast removing debris, so for the first two months the restaurant was open, Allyson, her mother Sharon Bailey Ross, and Tina Thompson ran the restaurant. She then hired Sandra Browne. Current staff has grown to 25 or 30 employees. Today, the cook Johnny McCuiston fits right in the mix. Decorations in the main dining room appeal to all ages and all races. One sign says, “There’s no White here. There’s no Black here. There’s only Blues here.” Allyson traded her art work with professors and other artists for pieces of their work, so she recycled many interesting items for the walls. Boo left a large number of 78 rpm records and instruments from musicians who visited or played. Now, they are tacked up on the wall of the wait station. The main dining room boasts an upright piano, Boo’s records, numerous album covers – Elvis, Dean Martin, Bing Crosby, sound tracks from Broadway musicals - a wonderful collection of vintage club and concert posters, from the 1950s to the present. Janis Joplin, BB King, Marvin Gaye, Tom Jones, Muddy Waters, Montovani, Billie Holiday, Grand Ole Opry, The Doors and Chuck Berry grace the walls. Posters tout acts at many venues: Paramount Theater in Brooklyn, Club Paradise, The Apollo, and Atlanta Fest. Worsham admits, “Boo was a Godsend. He knew design and ops, the back of the house. I had worked in restaurants while at Delta State and knew the front. When Boo left, we developed what is now a monster of a menu full of 60 entrees, 40 appetizers, 12 desserts, and a different soup for each day,” says Worsham.
“We serve what our repeat customers want, and they’re an eclectic group. A mix of ages and races eat here regularly. We have families with babies, older kids, grandparents, couples, entire office staffs, soldiers from Camp McCain, various contractors, fox hunters, fishermen and women, and a host of working men and women. The daily buffet is extremely popular, especially on Thursday – fried catfish day. We try to provide a good selection, speedy service, quality products and low prices.” Local motels and hotels often refer guests to the restaurant. “We have a wine list, and serve mixed drinks at night. Vacationers, bikers, and tourists sometimes order a beer with a sandwich. Our daytime diners rarely order beer or wine, as 99 percent of them are returning to work after lunch,” according to her mother, Sharon Ross. Ross says the 333 is known for its sandwiches – Po’ Boys, BLTs, Muffuletas – and its veggies, especially turnip greens, cornbread, biscuits and cakes. “We cater any meal, in our location or the customers, she adds.” From 2006 to 2009, the restaurant earned the “Best Family Restaurant” designation by the Daily Star and from 2010 to 2012 the “Best Steaks” honor from the Grenada Star. The 333’s patio is a great fair-weather party site, with enough umbrella tables and chairs to host a 100, a bar, stage, and a freestanding stone fireplace. Outside the fenced patio, deer and their offspring often appear in the surrounding kudzu. The rustic exterior of the 333 is eye-catching, and the location is ideal for outdoor enthusiasts heading to the lake. Follow Scenic 333 Loop from Highway 8 to Grenada Lake. Friendly and outgoing, Worsham views her serendipitous lifestyle change with humor. “I never thought I’d be running a restaurant.” Many diners, however, are glad of that fact.
www.333restaurant.com
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exploring events } october Natchez Fall Pilgrimage September 26-October 13 Nineteen antebellum mansions, most of them private residences, open their doors to visitors during this three-week Pilgrimage every fall. Your guides are costumed family friends and descendants of the original owners, whose stories are as real as the bricks and mortar in their hearths. Each house is unique with 18th and 19th century furnishings, porcelain, silver, clothing, tools, documents and diaries. For more info: 1-800-647-6742 www.natchezpilgrimage.com 3rd Annual Saturday by the Tracks Downtown historic Como Oct 11 8-4 pm, Arts, antiques and craft fair Mark Massey concert 2-4; Corvette Memphis street show. Vendor Information - 662-526-1000 Cedar Hill Farm Annual Pumpkin Patch and Corn Maize September 27-November 1, 2014 Mon-Fri 9:00am-5:00pm; Sat 10:00am–5:00pm; Sun 12:00pm-5:00pm Cedar Hill Farm 8 Love Road Hernando, MS Come visit The Pumpkin Patch and Corn Maize and see the fall colors at the farm. Take a tractor drawn hayride out to the pumpkin patch and let the kids pick their own, right out of the patch. Try your luck in our Hay Maze and large Corn Maize. Spend the whole day and enjoy a farm fresh dinner or supper in our Country Kitchen and browse our Country Store. For more information call 662-429-2540 or visit www.gocedarhillfarm.com The Hog Wild BBQ Festival October 2-4 Historic Downtown Corinth, MS The festival is 3 Full Days of BBQ Fun, Live Entertainment, a Carnival, Games & Fun for the entire family. Hog Wild is a sanctioned Kansas City BBQ Society event. For more information please call 662-287-1550 or visit www.mainstreetcorinth.com Carrollton Pilgrimage & Pioneer Day Festival October 3 and 4 9:00AM - 5:00pm Carrollton, MS Tours of historic homes and churches, wagon rides, genealogy expo, arts and crafts, food vendors, music and children’s entertainment. For more information visit www.visitcarrolltonms.com 80 DeSoto
King Biscuit Blues Festival October 10-11 Helena, AR The King Biscuit Blues Festival is held every Columbus Day Weekend in October. Tens of thousands of blues enthusiasts, as well as historians, from all over the world converge upon Historic Downtown Helena, Arkansas to hear stirring and uplifting performances of this American art form. For more info call 870-572-5223 or visit www.kingbiscuitfestival.com Hernando Water Tower Festival October 10-11 Fri 6:00pm; Sat 10:00am Hernando Courthouse Square - Hernando, MS Bring the family for two days of fun-filled activities. This event begins Friday as the BBQ team’s fire up their grills for the annual competition. On Friday evening, guests can enjoy music on the Square. Then on Saturday, enjoy a 10k Run, farmer’s market, arts and crafts, vintage car show, kid’s games and a mix of gospel, oldies and rock music on the square all day. Saturday night enjoy a concert on stage. Free this year. For more information visit www.hernandoms.org or call 662-429-9055. Octoberfest October 10-12 Downtown Cleveland A Memphis in May juried barbecue festival. Food, children’s area, live music, a blues stage, Mississippi items and a Friday night street dance. Over 100 Arts and crafts vendors on Saturday. Two days of fun, food, dance and music in beautiful historic downtown Cleveland. SPENCERS: Theatre of Illusion Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:00 p.m. Holmes Community College Corey Forum Grenada, MS Audiences cross over a threshold of disbelief only moments after the Spencers take the stage. The duo presents a big, high-tech stage show that combines drama, comedy, romance, and suspense with elaborate stage illusions that include dazzling special effects and magnificent set design. For tickets call 662-227-2302 3rd Annual Delta Hot Tamale Festival October 16-18 Downtown Greenville, MS Hot tamale cooking competition, parade, eating contest, live music, and much more! Call 662-378-3121 or visit www.hottamalefest.com
Southern Heritage Twilight Air Show October 17 and 18 Vicksburg-Tallulah Regional Airport Join us October 17th and 18th for the “Best Little Air Show in the World” located at the Vicksburg-Tallulah Regional Airport in Mound, LA., featuring many Warbird planes such as the, P-51D Mustang, F4U Corsair, AT-6 Texan, and more. The list of performers includes the newly inducted Air Show Hall of Famer’s, The Aeroshell Aerobatic Team. The Commemora- tive Air Force will have their B-24 named Diamond Lil’ there for tours and the option to purchase a ride after the Air Show. There will be fun for the whole family! Lawn chairs are welcome. No coolers allowed. For more information visit www.southernheritageair.com 4th Annual Leland Frog Fest and 6th Annual Chilli Cook-Off October 25 Historic Downtown-Leland, MS The community of Leland, MS host a festival of the arts to celebrate the Henson Exhibit in the Mississippi Delta. This event will feature hand on arts venue, professional story-teller, magicians, live music, Delta cuisine and live puppet performances. Eric Church: Outsiders World Tour October 31, 7:00 PM FedEx Forum Memphis, TN With special guests Dwight Yoakam and Brandy Clark www.ticketmaster.com Eric Church
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reflections } pumpkins
Intentional Shishitos,
Accidental Curcubitas Story and photography by Karen Ott Mayer
Wisdom does not necessarily come with age. We gardeners know this fact, although we may be a tad slow in actually accepting it when brought to our attention. The first time I decided to plant pumpkins, I also decided to plant squash, cantaloupe, honeydew melons and cucumbers all together and in neat rows. How clever. Until the vines began producing endless round green orbs attached to a mesh of vines. Standing in the garden surveying my fine crop, I decided...I had no clue about what grew beneath my stubborn feet. I had crop confusion. I brought one green orb inside and cut it open. “It’s a melon!” I proclaimed. However, it didn’t taste like a melon. After much thought, I determined the specimen to actually be a pumpkin. A green pumpkin? Who knew they were green before orange. They didn’t teach that one in French class. Fast forward 20 years and I’m standing in my south pasture this spring and I notice...a vine. A long vine crawling out of the ditch bank and spreading up the hill. Curious, I took a closer look. Although my memory isn’t what it used to be, I didn’t recall planting anything that resembled squash. As I stood there, a vague recollection creeped into my brain. A pumpkin. A mischievous juvenile pumpkin. Last fall, I threw a rotting pumpkin (of the curcubita genus) off my front stoop, hurling it gracefully into the ditch. I never gave the thing a second thought until that day. Then, I realized I had been outsmarted. Somewhere in the depths of winter, the freezing cold, the endless spring rains, a seed or seeds had found their way into a pocket, a hidden slice of soil and sprouted. While I was busy intentionally sowing shishito pepper seeds, carefully transplanting them and reaping their harvest, this 82 DeSoto
renegade just grew carefree underneath my nose. The nerve of those unruly curcubitas. As fall approaches, this accidental pumpkin patch has grown obnoxiously arrogant, producing at least seven perfectly huge pumpkins---one dangling like a braggart over the ditch. Their beautiful orange seduced me and I began an ardent watch over them, turning them occasionally so no flat sides would appear. I figured, if you can’t beat them… When a towering Oak fell this summer right over the patch, it continued to grow. Finally, the tree had to go and the tree men arrived. After detailed questions and directions about the tree, firewood, stumps and more, I gave them a fierce warning. “See those vines?” The rag tag bunch looked at me in confusion, following my finger pointing. “Those are my pumpkins. If anything happens to them, you won’t see a dime and I’ll hunt down your first born.” Satisfied they understood, I left them to wrestle the ancient Oak. When I returned, a clean field greeted me. One young man pointed to the patch. “The pumpkins are fine!” I nodded in agreement. Those pumpkins were certainly fine, whether or not I could take credit for them. Nature reminds us everyday that no plan or pruners will ever control her. She lulls us each Autumn, leading us to believe she’s slowing down and all our raking and blowing will finally beat her. We both have our intentions. I will soon pick those pumpkins and line them up in a row on the front porch. If I couldn’t make them mind in the field, I’ll enforce order on the stoop. I’d like to think they’ll mind but I’m still learning that lesson. Every season.
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