DeSoto Magazine January 2021

Page 49

Star State and wherever his travels take him, exploring the nuances of barbecue regardless of style. Still, he finds Texas ‘cue to be the best. ​ “There are a few things that define Texas barbecue,” he says. “First, the speed of the cook. We’re super slow, cooking for a few hours beyond what you’ll often find in the Carolinas and elsewhere. Second, we season with salt, pepper, and smoke, letting the quality of the ingredients, be it beef brisket, pork shoulder, chicken or anything else, speak for itself. Third, it’s the sauce.” ​ According to Levin, some of the old guard Texas barbecue joints forego the sauce, leaning on the meat alone. “The holy trinity of Texas barbecue – ribs, brisket, and sausage – should be delicious without sauce.” ​ With sauce, which in Texas plays with the balance of tanginess, sweetness, and spiciness, these meats get that extra jolt of flavor.

But Which is Best?

​ Ask Levin and he’ll tell you Texas serves the end-all-be-all of barbecue, period. ​ Cookston says the same of Memphis. ​Scott stands by South Carolina’s whole hog and his lip-puckering sauce and North Carolina stands with him. ​ Which means you have a dilemma on your hands: deciding which style you like, which sauce you love, and which ‘cue camp you fall into. ​Fortunately, Scott sells his rubs and sauces online at www.rodneyscottsbbq.com and his cookbook, “Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ: Every Day’s a Good Day,” due out in March, reveals some of his secrets for crushing ‘cue at home. ​ Cookston’s pair of cookbooks lets you in on her methods and you can order her ‘cue from www.melissacookston.com, and taste her barbecue, sauces and rubs alongside those from legendary pitmasters by ordering from www.thebbqallstars.com. Jason Frye writes about barbecue and all things Southern from his home base on the coast of North Carolina. As a bona fide barbecue nerd and a certified barbecue judge, he’s happiest when he can smell the smoke of the pits. Follow his adventures on Instagram where he’s @beardedwriter.

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