N E W Z E A L A N D
ADVENTURE WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS
ESCAPE!
ISSUE 218 DEC FEB/MAR 2020 NZ $10.90 incl. GST
WE ESCAPE TO: FIJI NIUE TAHITI SAMOA NEW CALEDONIA NORFOLK ISLAND SOLOMON ISLANDS
we ARE tramping
Tramping on Mt Howitt, Hooker Range, high above the Landsborough Valley Photo: Mark Watson / Highluxphoto
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#218
the simple art of travel
Enjoying the sunset and a cold one at Badlands National Park, South Dakota
Morgan Massenn Redbull Illume entry 2019 Image courtesy Redbull Content Pool
I am sitting writing this at Auckland airport. The loudspeaker is calling for some unpronounceable names that are ‘keeping others waiting and the unload procedure is underway’. – That is such a passive aggressive statement - trying to use other 'passengers’ anger to move you along. Most of the people you see at the airport are slightly stressed. Mothers with babies, teenagers walking around in a confused state, older people in that same airport ‘Where am I supposed to be?’ fog. People are wandering around in 'comfortable clothes', actually some look like their PJs. There are people with cushions wound around their neck and others already sleeping on the floor. I have already picked up a passport and boarding pass and handed it to the barman – yep it’s 10.45 am and I am having a beer. It's a bit like; if you are at the airport, all those standard rules go out the window. That is what travel does and we are not even out of the airport yet! Travel opens up so many doors, apart from just the bar. No one knows me here, no one can judge me for having a beer at 10.45am, or that the lady next to me is in her pyjamas with eye covers on her head and a mickey mouse pillow. It seems that once people are on the road to somewhere all those conventions that hold us back seem to go out of the window and the simple process of travel to anywhere creates a feeling of freedom, from rules, from convention, from really caring what others think. Travel builds us; whereas normal life can shrink us, we can’t do this, we can't do that because of the judgement of others. We are too concerned to step outside of ourselves and challenge ourselves. The process of travel is the ability to challenge yourself, making movement, creating fun, finding new things, you don't know what is around the next corner, what's behind the next door, it is all a surprise. When you travel, the unexpected is an everyday occurrence. When you are not travelling, you can guess what you will be doing at 10.30am (probably not having a beer) at 1.30.pm and at 4pm. That's why repeatedly travelling to the same place is not as beneficial as going somewhere new. You don't want to make your travel experience a repetition of being at home, or you lose some of the value.
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EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER Steve Dickinson Mob: 027 577 5014 steve@pacificmedia.co.nz ART DIRECTOR Lynne Dickinson design@pacificmedia.co.nz SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES subs@pacificmedia.co.nz DISTRIBUTION Ovato, Ph (09) 979 3000 OTHER PUBLICATIONS (HARDCOPY AND ONLINE) www.adventuremagazine.co.nz www.adventuretraveller.co.nz www.adventuerjobs.co.nz www.skiandsnow.co.nz @adventurevanlifenz
PUBLISHERS NZ Adventure Magazine is published six times a year by: Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562 Whangaparaoa, New Zealand Ph: 0275775014 Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz adventuremagazine.co.nz adventurejobs.co.nz | adventuretraveller.co.nz Contributions of articles and photos are welcome and must be accompanied by a stamped selfaddressed envelope. Photographic material should be on slide, although good quality prints may be considered. All care is taken but no responsibility accepted for submitted material. All work published may be used on our website. Material in this publication may not be reproduced without permission. While the publishers have taken all reasonable precautions and made all reasonable effort to ensure the accuracy of material in this publication, it is a condition of purchase of this magazine that the publisher does not assume any responsibility or liability for loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from the use of information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.
Travel is about expansion, expansion of your knowledge, your culture, your experiences, but most of all it is about developing a better you. This is our travel issue – enjoy!
Steve Dickinson - Editor
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#218 contents page
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Image by Derek Cheng
08//Falling in love with charlotte
Explore Queen Charlotte Sounds with Adventure Magazine and Wilderness Guides
20//dirtbag dispatches Derek Cheng explores Canada
30//Everest base camp A rite of passage for the prepared Kiwi page
36//from city to mountains
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Reasons to visit Tongariro National Park
42//alex megos Talking Olympic climbing
52//adventure van life nz Check out the latest on Van Life
65//urban adventure Image by Rob Bruce
Inspiration, activities and information for the urban adventurer
88//adventure travel Escape to the Pacific
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plus 64. subs 82. gear guides 110. Active adventure
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Image by Steve Dickinson
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THE MOUNTAINBIKER We've heard lots of New Year's resolutions, but this is one of our favourites... "Learn to make good cocktails." One of our readers, Sue, has been creating cocktails to match her adventurous lifestyle. Here is her latest, "The Mountainbiker." TO MAKE: 1 jigger whiskey Half jigger lime A quarter jigger jagermeister Shake with ice Serve in highball glass with ice and fill with IPA beer... Garnish with sprig of rosemary... Follow Sue on instagram @coastcocktails2020 BEHIND THE COVER
This image was taken by Morgan Maassen. On his website he says, ‘Growing up in and around the ocean has provided me with my favourite subject to photograph. The majority of my work is water-related and involves the oceanic lifestyle. I’ve also frequently incorporated my passions of travelling, nature, architecture and fashion into my work. While I strive to capture what I see as beautiful, this is often not the perfect moment. Instead, light, textures, and the abstract nature of the earth are what truly fascinates me’. This particular image was a finalist in the Red Bull illume 2019 – (courtesy Red Bull content pool) The illume the largest action photography competition in the world with over 25000 entries. ADVENTURE GOES TO NEPAL
Well to be fair we didn't go to Nepal but a copy of our last issue did with the @gottogetout crew that were trekking to Mt Everest BaseCamp and they took an Adventure Mag for the ride. This photo was snapped at Namche Bazar, 3440m above sea level. You can read the full feature later in this issue. If you are going on an adventure and you would like a copy of Adventure to take with you to shoot in some place special (does not have to be Everest!) let us know and we'll send you a copy to take along. Take an image and we will post it here in the magazine and on-line, plus we will send you a wee gift.
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FALLING IN LOVE WITH CHARLOTTE By Helen Pelham, Lynne Dickinson and Linda Lennon We are all so swift to jump on a plane and fly to another country boasting amazing views and stunning activities; but there are few destinations that can rival what we have right here on our doorstep. I had always wanted to visit Queen Charlotte Sounds and with an invitation from Wilderness Guides that ‘date’ was finally going to happen. This adventure would take 3days; a hike, a bike and kayak and as this title suggests it was the beginning of a real location romance. Arriving in Picton, the heart of the Marlborough Sounds the air was unseasonably cool, but you were distracted from the lack of summer warmth by the absolute beauty of Sounds. We caught up at Wilderness Guides HQ and were fully and expertly briefed about our upcoming trip. You know when someone looks at you and you can see doubt in their eyes? Martyn, our Wilderness Guide, looks at us with ‘professional’ concern as he explains day two’s 24km mountain bike ride. “Just how much mountain biking experience do you have?” he asks dubiously. We are 3 women in our 50s with varying levels of competence and Martyn obviously has doubts about our biking abitilies. He explains that this is a difficult ride, rated a grade 4-5, and we will likely be pushing our bikes up and down hills for a fair amount of the track. He offers us the easier option of riding along a road through Kenepuru Sounds, but we fail to take the hint and reply, "It's OK, we'll be right, we'll stick to the track!" How naive we were...
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Marlborough Sounds in all its beauty - Image compliments of Wilderness Guides
THE HIKE
Top: Leaving Picton on day one of our journey Left to Right: Map check / Take the time to read the history of the area at the start of the hike in Ship Cove / Linda, appreciating the native fauna
As day one dawns, another unseasonably cold one, it’s an early start as we meet the guides for a final briefing at 7.30 am. With a pack lunch provided we board Beachcomber Cruises for our ride out to the start of the track at Ship Cove.
ticket. The track meanders over 2 saddles and with a relatively gentle gradient, is not too demanding. Immersed in the native bush and surrounded by ocean it’s easy to see what makes the Queen Charlotte track so popular.
45 minutes into the journey a pod of dolphins appear alongside the boat, playing in the waves and wake of our vessel. They are so close we can almost touch them.
We stopped at the top of the Tawa saddle, which is just past the halfway mark, to have our lunch. There are picnic tables and toilets here with amazing views making it a perfect place to refuel. Be aware of the weka, they are evil little thieves who will steal any food or search through any unattended backpacks in the hope of finding a treat.
Ship Cove “Meretoto”, has been memorialised to mark the landing and trading of Captain Cook. Take the time to have a look around and visualise how things must have been when Cook first arrived. There’s a shelter and toilet for your convenience and information boards that give a full description of Captain Cook’s endeavours. We had a good look around and then set off on the 17km walk. All of our gear was being transported to our first night’s accommodation thanks to Wilderness Guides, so all we had to carry was our day pack. This allowed us to experience the hike without having to carry too much weight. One thing to note is to make sure you carry enough clothes and water with you for all conditions. In the exposed parts of the track, the strong southerly winds made for cold temperatures and so we were constantly adding and removing layers throughout the day. The hike itself is along a clay track, which is easy to walk on requiring only a quality pair of trainers. If you do not own a pair of hiking boots it really does not matter, our Hoka One One’s proved to be just the
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The second half of the tramp takes you gradually down to Endeavour Inlet and after approximately 4 hours the sight of several quintessential kiwi baches tells you that you are close to Furneaux Lodge, the end of the track for us today. The lodge is a historical oasis and over a cold beer followed by a nice Pinot, we relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful setting before boarding the mail boat for the short ride to Punga Cove. (If you miss the boat it’s another 12km hike around the inlet, however the staff keep you well informed when it’s close so there should be no excuse.) Arriving at Punga Cove was a real highlight. We were straight into the Jacuzzi to rest our tired muscles; this pool boasts a wonderful view of the sounds. This was followed by a magnificent meal at their top-quality restaurant. Punga Cove is an absolute delight with comfortable, well-appointed chalets all with amazing views. To be honest we didn’t want to leave. However, more adventures awaited us the next day and it was time to move on.
Top Left to Right: Spectacular views are in abundance along the track and are impressive regardless of the weather / Not a bad spot to enjoy our lunch, the Hoka One One's proving to be just the ticket Bottom: The view and the food are both spectacular at Punga Cove
"It was from a hill on Arapaoa Island in 1770 that Captain James Cook first saw the sea passage from the Pacific Ocean to the Tasman Sea, which was named Cook Strait. Captain Cook sheltered in Queen Charlotte Sound during each of his three voyages of exploration at various points, and named it after Queen Consort Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz.�
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Above: There were loads of bays and beaches to stop and enjoy along the Kenepuru Sounds road
THE BIKE
Day 2 could not have been more different. Gone were the thermals, fleeces and jackets from yesterday and out came the togs and singlets! Our bikes had been delivered the day before so after a buffet breakfast, we headed out of the resort. The ride starts with a gruelling 1km uphill on a gravel road and Martyn’s original concerns start to come back to haunt us. It is here that you either head up the Queen Charlotte Track or take the option of the road through Kenepuru Sounds. Despite Martyn’s warnings we had originally decided to give the trail a go, however the cold weather from the previous few days had left us feeling a little under the weather (or was it just the wine?) and our enthusiasm for a hard day’s ride was waning. After checking out the track on foot the reality of the ride hit us and we decided to take the road. Turning away from the Queen Charlotte Track did not come without a sense of FOMO however, the Kenepuru Sounds road turned out to be a real surprise and a route that shouldn’t be seen as a second-rate option. The ride from Punga Cove to Portage along the Kenepuru Sounds is 32 km and can be ridden in 2-3 hours, compared with 24km along the Queen Charlotte Track, with an estimated 4-5 hours ride time. This should tell you a lot about the difficulty of the ride. Although we could have ridden the track, it would have been hours of technical riding, focusing only a few feet in front of us, with little chance to appreciate anything else. What we learnt is how important it is to be honest with yourself about your abilities and what you want out of the day. For us, the ability to relax, take our time and enjoy the views and each other’s company was what it was all about, however, if you were a hard core mountain biker who loves the technical and physical challenge you would want to be doing the ridge ride over on the track. The countryside and farmland provided a different vista from the day before, but no less beautiful. The ride becomes easier as you leave the gravel onto a sealed road, which then winds along the edge of Kenepuru Sounds. There are endless opportunities to take a break and enjoy the stunning views. We took our time, stopping at various bays along the way, enjoying lunch and a swim at Picnic Cove.
Top to bottom: The view from near the ridge on the Queen Charlotte track was incredible, however we quickly realised we'd made the right decision in taking the lower road. Helen and Linda checking out the map, note the ridgeline in the background marks the top of the Queen Charlotte track. Resting our legs on the deck of our room at the Portage.
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As we came down the final bend, The Portage Resort lays nestled in the hillside overlooking the ocean. We were warmly welcomed on arrival by the manager, Josh and nothing was too much trouble for him or his staff. There were incredible views from everywhere at the resort and we ended the day with a meal in the restaurant as we watched the sun set over the Sounds, a perfect end to a perfect day.
"Leaving the valley the road opens out to expose the beautiful Kenepuru Sounds�
"Our start point at Ship Cove is now just a hazy point in the distance, and we cannot help but feel a sense of pride as we reflect on how far we have travelled over the past few days, all under our own steam.�
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Far Left: Kayaking is a great way to see the Sounds from a totally different perspective.
THE KAYAK
Left: Early morning planning with our incredible guide, Rikki Right: Helen and Rikki squeezing through the crack in the rock Below: A picture paints a thousand words #Nofilterneeded
The next morning we headed over the hill to Torea. This is a 30-minute walk from Portage, or you can ask the lovely staff to give you a ride to the jetty. The kayaks and our competent, Canadian guide Rikki arrived on the mail boat and our final day began with a briefing at the beach before heading off on our route for the day. Although the weather had warmed since we started, the wind was still gusting so instead of kayaking back to Picton, Rikki proposed an alternative route that keep the wind at our backs for most of the day. Perfect! We were in double kayaks, which were super stable and almost impossible to capsize. Even the most nervous adventurer would be confident in one of these, especially with Rikki in charge. Our route took us along the edge of the coastline and in and out of the many bays. Along the way, we listened as Rikki chatted about the native birds, trees and sea creatures. Her knowledge of our coastline and the history of the region is impressive, apart from the accent, you’d think she was born and bred in this part of our country.
After a few hours paddling in and out of bays, we crossed the channel which gave us a panoramic look back towards the sounds. Our start point at Ship Cove is now just a hazy point in the distance, and we cannot help but feel a sense of pride as we reflect on how far we have travelled over the past few days, all under our own steam. The rest of the day is spent exploring the beaches, coves, stopping for lunch and even kayaking through a cheeky hole in the rock before meandering towards our pickup point. We pass a playful NZ fur seal and watch stingrays swimming beneath us. We really feel like we are in paradise. Like most new romances this had to come to an end, all three of us had fallen in love with Marlborough and Queen Charlotte Sounds; not just the beauty and activities, but the people, the vibe and how Wilderness Guides tailored the trip so that we got the very most out of every moment. We were sad to go but as Tennyson said ‘Tis better to have loved and lost than to have never loved at all’ – Charlotte we’ll be back!
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VISITING THE MARLBOROUGH REGION Getting There: To reach the Marlborough Sounds, Air New Zealand flies directly to Blenheim or you can take the Blueridge Interisland Ferry across Cook Straight from Wellington to Picton. Conveniently located in Wellington CBD, Bluebridge Cook Strait Ferries sail downtown Wellington to the Sounds 50 times a week. They are famous for their warm Kiwi hospitality and better value fares every day. Your ticket includes free movies and the best free WiFi on Cook Strait. If you’re a keen cyclist they have a Bluebridge Bike Club and you can walk your bike on and it will sail for free. They reward you Airpoints Dollars™ every time you sail with Bluebridge. Their passengers also love the great value quality local food freshly prepared by their onboard chefs and their private cabins that come with an ensuite and linen from only $30. You can even use their Wellington to Picton week day sleeper service and board early around midnight. You’ll sleep while they set sail at 2.30am and arrive rested in Picton at around 6am ready for the next leg of your adventure. Once in Picton, the choices for exploring the region are in abundance. Why Wilderness Guides?: Wilderness Guides is celebrating its 20th birthday this year. Owned and operated by Steve and Juliet Gibbons, Kiwis who grew up in the Marlborough region who both have a passion for the outdoors. All the planning and preparation are taken care of so you can just enjoy what you have come to do. Everything was so easy for us, our bags arrived ahead of us and were in our rooms when we arrived. The convenient luggage transfer system provided by Beachcomber Cruises, meant we only had to carry day packs so we could really enjoy the adventure. The bikes and kayaks were top quality, easy to ride and paddle, and suited for the terrain. It is an easy, cost effective way to experience this piece of paradise. Wilderness Guides have plenty of options for seeing the sounds and will taylormake an adventure just to suit you. So what are you waiting for? Check out what they have to offer at wildernessguidesnz.com
Punga Lodge: We wish we had more time at Punga Lodge; the setting was like something from a tropical island. The staff were friendly and attentive and the views from our room were simply spectacular. We were also well sheltered from the southerly winds and the temperature felt a few degrees warmer here. Thoroughly recommend the spa pool, a great way to relax at the end of the day and the views over the bay made relaxing super easy.
The Portage: Another luxury lodge that is warm and welcoming. The staff are there to make you feel special and nothing is too much trouble for them. The views are unbelievable and there is a pool to relax in after a hard day on the track. If offers 2 bars and restaurants so you have a choice of either the more casual “Snapper Bar,” a favourite for the locals, or if you prefer something a little more formal the main bar and restaurant provide either a buffet dinner or a-la-carte. Both provide amazing views and a stunning place to relax. The Region: Marlborough Sounds (Te Tau Ihu o te Waka-a-Māui) offers the tourist and the adventurer many options. After experiencing the sounds, be sure to allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy everything the region has to offer. We recommend heading up to Blenheim (Waiharakeke) to check out the vineyards for a day. You can hire cycles and do a tour of the vineyards that offer tastings and enjoy either top quality dining or casual tapas or platters.
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WORLD
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RED BULL ILLUME FINALIST
PHOTOGRAPHER: STERLING LORENCE LOCATION: Big Water, Utah THE SHOT: “I was working in Utah with Brett Rheeder and Anthill Films as he built his segment for the film ‘Return to Earth’. Brett had built this amazing quarter pipe onto a rock sitting out on the desert floor. After witnessing and shooting this in various natural lighting scenarios and compositions, I started to envision an opportunity to light it from above with the strobe on a drone. I really liked the simplicity of this composition with the three rocks together and thought we could help truly give it an otherworldly feel and help bring shape to the scene with some cascading light fall from above. At twilight one evening, with help from drone pilot Colin Jones, we slowly feathered the drone into the right position till the light was just right and Brett was maxing out off this rock.” Image courtesy Red Bull content pool
DIRTBAG DISPATCHES CANADA, EH? Words and images by Derek Cheng The wall steepened and I gingerly placed a foot higher, reaching for a hold. It seemed solid, but promptly broke. Luckily, I kept my footing and simply tossed the remains of the hold below with a cry of “Rock!�, sending climbers at the base scattering. A few moves higher, another loose rock was sent flying, this one the size of an onion. It scraped the leg of a friend at the base, who mistakenly thought that huddling in a corner would keep him out of harm's way. Shit. This was perhaps the worst pitch of rock climbing I've ever done. There was nowhere to place any rock protection for dozens of metres in the brittle limestone of Castle Mountain, in the Canadian Rockies, which felt steep for grade 5.4 (12). Every foot and hand placement was delicate, tenuous. Every movement, slow and deliberate. I've grabbed handfuls of gravel more solid than this. After several held breaths and excruciating moments, finally, I found a placement to place some rock protection. A few moves later, I climbed over a ledge to the first place to build an anchor and bring up my climbing partner. I continued up, reaching the top of the second pitch, when a blood-curdling scream swept up the face. I called out and anxiously waited for a response from my friends below signalling all is good. Silence for a few heartbreaking moments. "I'm okay," a response finally floated up. My friend had pulled off a block the size of a toaster. The block had luckily dropped harmlessly over her shoulder, adding to the debris at the base of Brewer's Buttress.
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Previous Page: Climbing the Grand Sentinel (grade 5.10d, 20) near Mt Temple Above: The mountains around Canmore, including the Three Sisters on the left Right: The Grand Sentinel
"It is absolutely astonishing to me that this heavenly range actually exists in real life. They are some of the wildest, most spectacular, pristine and, for the most part, accessible mountains in the world - and they are right in our own backyards."�
Why were we there? Surely there are better mountains to climb, with kinder rock. The same question lingered when I was kicking down loose shale near the top of Saddle Mountain. Or when a rock to the helmet rudely reminded me of my own vulnerable position while soloing Mt Indefatigable. Or on a rock route on Mt Rundle, when a chunk of limestone bigger than a loaf of bread broke off after my thigh merely brushed it. But the Rockies are magnificent in other ways - an adventure playground of the highest order, with endless mountain terrain rich in glaciers, forests, and peaks that push skywards. Where else in the world are there so many towering rock faces, most of them easily accessible from the main highway running across the country? These words from Canadian climbing legend Sonnie Trotter say it all (especially the lack of words about rock quality): "It is absolutely astonishing to me that this heavenly range actually exists in real life. They are some of the wildest, most spectacular, pristine and, for the most part, accessible mountains in the world - and they are right in our own backyards."
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The first thing you notice when you enter Rockies territory is the sheer volume of rock. Around every corner simply reveals more mountains with more rock faces. The Canadian Rockies form part of five National Parks - Banff, Yoho, Jasper, Kootenay, and Waterton - and a number of provincial parks. They run some 2000 kilometres from the border of BritishColumbia and the Yukon, down through Alberta, and south over the US border to Montana. The rock is sedimentary, mainly limestone and bands of shale and quartzite that can be exceptionally solid, or notoriously brittle. The heart of Rockies rock climbing is the town of Canmore, right in the heart of the Bow Valley and home to some 12,000 people. It is nestled
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among a series of eye-catching peaks. The Ship's Prow blushes in the dawn light. The Three Sisters to the east catch the evening light. Mt Rundle's 11 peaks trail a jagged line west to Banff. But several inquiries into rock quality were all met with the same shrug: "It's the Rockies. It's a bit shit." Still, the first pitch of Brewer's Buttress on Castle Mountain transcended the usual definition of "crumbly". We chose it because of the hut on a massive ledge halfway up the peak, and the fine view from the long-drop, perched on the edge of a precipitous drop. We bivied under the stars, with only the foraging of squirrels and the passing freight train breaking our slumber. The following morning, after a mild leg-scratch and a near-miss on the first pitch, we climbed a number of aesthetic corners to the summit. The higher we were, the better the rock. At the top, the sharp, splendid pyramid of Mt Assiniboine greeted us in the far distance. Assiniboine was immediately added to the list, which was growing every day: Ha Ling, the iconic peak I could see from our bedroom window; Yamnuska, the birthplace of climbing in the Rockies; the Grand Sentinel, a free-standing pillar on the south-east side of Mt Temple.
"The 600m-high dihedral splits the main face of Mt Indefatigable from the first move to the final top-put. A stunning, unique feature.” Many of the best bolted climbs - where you don’t need to place your own rock protection as you climb were an outrageously convenient five-minute drive from town. This was mind-blowing to someone who was used to the 10-hour round-trip that is Wellington (see Taupo) rope-climbing. Even the alpine climbing wasn't far away. Yamnuska? Twenty minutes to the car park. Lake Louise? An hour. One day, we dared to venture beyond an hour's drive, heading deep into the Kananaskis Range in search of a beautiful corner, aptly named Joy (grade 5.6,14). The 600m-high dihedral splits the main face of Mt Indefatigable from the first move to the final top-put. A stunning, unique feature. Every climb seemed to have something special. Takakkaw Falls, in Yoho National Park, has a belay position a stone's throw from a raging waterfall. Then, above a typically loose, unprotectable shale pitch, a giant hole in the face leads you into the darkness. The route requires you to crawl on hands and knees along this 30m-long cave. It is understandably damp, a remnant from a time when the waterfall was even more immense. It narrows just enough to force you to drop into a belly-shuffle, before you emerge into the light next to the apex of the waterfall and its narrow, sharp channels and deafening roar. Not recommended for the claustrophobic. Sir Donald, at 3284m, is a dark triangle that dominates the skyline in Rogers Pass, and looks like it belongs in the Himalaya. It offers a delightful grade 5.4 (12) scramble up the Northwest Ridge, slowly rising above the surrounding glaciers and rugged peaks. The back of Lake Louise is considered to be the cragging jewel in the Rockies Crown. Anyone who passes through with only a week to climb is told to head directly there. The rock is quartzite, often with vertical cracks and horizontal in-cuts for hands and fingers to surmount overhanging sections. There are roofs, arétes, technical faces, cracks - sometimes all in one steep, magnificent line. And the setting is stunning. The hue of Lake Louise seems to be infused with a purity of blue that doesn't exist anywhere else. Morraine Lake is in the same area, at the head of the Valley of Ten Peaks. A stroll up the valley not only gives you a view of several peaks that resemble the bottom jawline of some mammoth, prehistoric predator, but also brings you to the free-standing, 100m-high pillar known as the Grand Sentinel. Of the few lines on it, Cardiac Aréte (grade 5.10d, 20) is the stand-out. Four bolted pitches up a sharp, aesthetic aréte, with wild exposure and a nearby glacier that frequently releases boulder torpedoes to the talus below. At the top of the route is a flat platform which seems custom-built to pose for summit photographs and bask in the euphoria that comes with the sheer pleasure of beautiful climbing in a magnificent position.
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Above: Route Joy (grade 5.6, 14) on Mt Indefatigable Following page: Cragging around Lake Louise
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Lake Louise epitomises everything that is great about the Rockies: a lot of rock amid stunning serenity. But even here, we were not immune to shitty rock. While having lunch, some climbers dislodged a boulder the size of an armchair from the top of the cliff of Saddle Mountain. The sound was like the swooshing of a diving bird inches from the cliff face - but magnified a thousand times. I gazed skywards, halfexpecting to see a winged dinosaur the size of a bus, but instead watched as the block obliterated into the ground a mere 10m from us. This was a special type of playground, where falling death blocks could interrupt your lunch. As I continued to munch on my hummus and crackers, it struck me. You have to be prepared - more than usual - to navigate rock both excellent and fragile, but so long as death was avoided, it enhanced the experience. It improved your skill set. Close encounters with crumbly rock are character-building, and add flavour to the adventure. The summer season in the Rockies is short and as October rolled around, several objectives - Mt Assiniboine, Mt Edith Cavell, the Tonquin - remained undone. Whole ranges unvisited. Therein lies the secret of the Rockies to keep drawing you back: the infinite rock faces will mean that the tick-list will always keep growing.
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X
RED BULL ILLUME FINALIST
posure
PHOTOGRAPHER: NILS OHLENDORF LOCATION: Fruit Bowl, Moab, Utah, USA THE SHOT: “During a two-month climbing trip in the USA, I stayed in Indian Creek when I heard about the GGBY Highline Festival happening outside of Moab. I went to check it out and was totally impressed by the place, the community and the aesthetics of people expressing themselves by moving through space. Next to the highline area, I had the chance to witness Andy Lewis going for a base jump right into the setting sun above the green river. It was a one-shot kind of opportunity, but everything aligned perfectly.” Image courtesy Red Bull content pool
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Got To Get Out trekkers at Mt Everest Base Camp, 5380m, Jan 2020. Approx-25 degrees celcius. Photo, Robert Bruce on Nikon Z6 mirrorless
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EVEREST BASE CAMP
A RITE OF PASSAGE FOR (PREPARED) KIWIS What is it about Mt Everest Base Camp (EBC) at 5380m above sea level that is such a draw card for Kiwis? Thousands of New Zealanders pay good money and trek over one hundred kilometers (in wintertime, in sub-freezing temperatures) seemingly to visit a collection of rocks and prayer flags at ‘base camp’. Granted, in the climbingseason EBC is the staging point for summit attempts of the tallest mountain on earth, however interesting fact, trekkers to EBC never actually step foot ‘on’ Mt Everest. Why bother then?
Prepared by Robert Bruce, robert@gottogetout.com +6421 238 7758 Founder Got to Get Out / Trip leader Nepal 2019 expedition
Adventure Magazine talks with Robert Bruce, founder of Got to Get Out who just completed his fourth group trek to the region, this time leading thirty (mostly) Kiwis to EBC return while also navigating some drama at 5,000m above sea level. He explains the draw card and why he believes EBC is an educational and cultural rite of passage for Kiwis, if you are prepared.
Josefine from Got To Get Out, pausing while descending after EBC, photo Robert Bruce Nikon Z6 Where did your interest in Nepal first come about? Got To Get Out (GTGO) is a social enterprise adventure group I founded in 2015. The group is designed to get Kiwis (or people living in New Zealand) active, outdoors, getting healthy and making friends. The whole premise of the group was to get people outdoors on safe and well-organised events, that ‘got people off the couch’. I never set out to become a particularly extreme outdoors operator, I just wanted to make it easy for people to get moving. As I recall, back in 2015 no-one was really arranging free organized trips, so I guess GTGO was unique when I started writing on Facebook “who’s #gottogetout with me this weekend?” It was while trekking through Nepal to Mt Everest Base Camp, my first trip to the region, that the idea of arranging group trips came about; I had recently left the corporate/ marketing world, not exactly by choice, but looking back it was exactly the change I needed. With some time on my hands, and a wee bit of redundancy money in my pocket, I opted to fly to Nepal and trek to Mt Everest Base Camp in winter, not due to any particular planning or interest, but because I was available right then and had the money. Looking back I could have travelled anywhere, but I suppose the words “Mt Everest” had brand allure or triggered some Kiwi sentimentality, even before I knew much about the region. Before I left on that first trip, my mum thrust a paperback into my suitcase titled “Nothing Venture, Nothing Win” written by none other than Sir Edmund Hillary. At age 30, this book was my first real research into arguably New Zealand’s most famous man – and thanks to this book and this first trip
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my eyes were really opened to what he had achieved, not only by putting New Zealand on the map by climbing the world’s tallest peak with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in 1953, but also by subsequently doing such good work for the people and communities and environment of Nepal. Something was certainly sparked within me back then, and on my return to NZ in January of 2015 I started Got To Get Out as a Facebook page running NZ based events, but quietly vowed to bring people back to the Himalayas in future, to also follow in ‘Sir Ed’s footsteps’. Tell us about your first trip, what was that like? Back in 2015 I was pretty inexperienced; I certainly didn’t have free sponsored boots or gear like I do now! I had to buy or borrow it all myself. I really did not know what I was walking in to, literally, and had just paid some global travel brand that churn out EBC visits once a month. I trekked with a nice multinational group of people, Brits Ozzy’s and a couple of Kiwis, and we did EBC together and became friends along the way. To call it a learning experience is probably a bit much, my recollection of that first trek (and my observation of other group leaders, since) is they take more of a personaltrainer approach; the guides are there to feed and water you, and get you safely to and from EBC. Perhaps due to the limited English of guides, there’s not much ‘teaching’ of the history per se, certainly not specifically to any Kiwi / Nepalese connection, anyway. I have found you can learn far more about the region by reading books during the trip. I’ve become a bit of an Everest geek since that first trip, and read dozens of mountaineering and history books, to give myself more context to the history of the region, and in particular
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the Kiwi connection to the mountains. Today, I try to pass on this information to my guests, such as the amazing exploits of Edmund Hillary but also of other mountaineers like Rob Hall, who also fills several chapters of Kiwi mountaineering history. In my first trip I remember being awestruck by the huge swing bridges crossing back and forth across the Khumbu valley (some of which I would later learn, were installed by Sir Edmund Hillarys’ Himalayan Trust to help locals and mountaineers safely cross the rivers). I was also amazed by the many mules’ donkeys yaks and porters carrying huge loads up and down the route, and gob smacked the first time I saw Mt Everest with its plume of ice blowing off it’s summit. The whole trek is a visual feast, and I for one am so glad the region (Sagarmatha National Park) has resisted commercialization, at least in the form of roads. Granted, it appears to be absolutely back-breaking work for the porters carrying supplies between towns piled high on their backs, but having now walked the Annapurna Circuit where human or animal porters have been replaced with lorries, I know which I prefer and I hope this never changes. Some things are better left original. What is it like getting to Mt Everest Base Camp itself? Getting to Mt Everest Base Camp the first time is certainly an achievement, one you remember forever. In general, you have climbed 500 or so vertical meters per day for about two weeks and covered around 10km of distance per day. Each day of walking takes the average person between 5-8 hours, depending on the regularity or length of stops and fitness and speed of the group. In wintertime, which happens to be the only time I have visited Nepal, it’s certainly cold! The first few days from Lukla airport
"My mum thrust a paperback into my suitcase titled, “Nothing Venture, Nothing Win” written by none other than Sir Edmund Hillary. At age 30, this book was my first real research into arguably New Zealand’s most famous man – and thanks to this book and this first trip my eyes were really opened to what he had achieved... ” Robert always takes a 'Sir Ed' $5 bill to EBC. Here shown with Everest in background. Photo Robert Bruce (called the Tenzing Hillary airport, another building arranged by Sir Edmund Hillary) are relatively warm. By relatively warm, I mean zero degrees thereabouts, in the daytime. It’s after arriving to the ‘Sherpa capital’ of Namche Bazar that temperatures start to really plummet. Each time I have visited EBC it has been colder than the last, which may be the result of changing global climates. To give readers an idea, when we visited EBC this January it was snowing and very windy. The wind was so strong that our lighter-weight guests had to lean their bodies against the wind to stand up, and some were worried about being knocked over. My guides estimated windchill of -30 degree Celsius on this day (in the middle of the day), and it certainly felt like it: take your glove off to snap a photo, and your fingers soon freeze! The interesting thing with the region in winter, is the weather is changeable: the Got To Get Out group split into two this year, and the first group to EBC reported fine clear conditions. One day later and it was a storm. Basecamp itself is nothing like the movies. If you’ve watched films like “Everest” or any documentary on Himalayan mountain climbing you’re forgiven for expecting to see dozens of yellow alpine tents, and mountaineers in crampons walking among piles of expired oxygen bottles. You could even be forgiven for expecting to see bodies, at Basecamp(!). This is one of the most common questions I am asked “are there bodies at basecamp?” I’m afraid this impression is all completely wrong, at least in December and January when I run trips to EBC. After days of trekking, hopefully dodging altitude sickness, while surviving with no showers or flushing toilets, you arrive to a very cold barren glacier, without much sign of life. There is no ‘tea tent’ welcome at EBC, you will only be greeted by a collection of ice, rocks, prayer flags, and perhaps mementos from past trekkers. There is also a bonechilling cold like nothing I can explain in words. If you’re anything like the members of my groups, you get to base camp and spend only a few moments grabbing a selfie, then get the heck out of there back to Gorek Shep (the nearest town where you spend the night after EBC) to warm yourself in front of their yak-dung fireplace and hot masala tea. EBC isn’t a place you ‘hang out’.
"Got To Get Out founder Robert Bruce before attempting Island Peak, two days after EBC. Photo Josefine Pettersson, using Nikon Z6
"I believe following in the footsteps of Sir Edmund Hillary through the Himalayas to Mt Everest Base Camp is something every Kiwi should do, at some point in their life.” Got To Get Out trekkers, heading up the Khumbu valley toward EBC. Robert Bruce on Nikon Z6 Winter doesn’t sound fun, why do you trek then? Winter in Nepal is actually a wonderful time to trek through the Himalaya due to there being far less crowds, clearer sky’s than summer, and lovely fresh cold air. The downside (some might say) is the attimes extreme cold (especially at night), and therefore often frozen facilities like toilets and water pipes. In winter there also can be slippery ice covering the usually grippy dirt tracks. I’ve seen many trekkers (and porters, alike) slip over, and narrowly miss breaking a wrist. Rubber stretchy crampons are a cheap purchase in Nepal, and all GTGO guests wear these at least across the worst ice. I strongly recommend this purchase in winter (approx. $10USD or 1100rupees). Whilst it is true there is often no running water, and therefore no flushing loos, to me this is all part of the experience and you get used to it. Most important is to come with the expectation that ‘nothing will work like it does at home’ and you won’t be disappointed or surprised! Lastly, don’t expect a shower in winter for the full fifteen days you are in the mountains. I suggest bringing wet wipes! So why trek in winter? The real reason is that December and January are when most Kiwis have enough annual leave to complete the whole trip, so that’s when we go. How much gear do you carry? Most people, certainly on my trips, opt to have a porter carry their main bag (usually their gear is in a duffel bag, often supplied by the trekking company) so the weight on your back (usually a 20 to 40liter pack) may only be 5kg depending on what you keep in your day-bag. Things like your camera, wallet, water, and some snacks for the day. Using a porter to carry your stuff certainly makes it more comfortable for guests and reduces the chances of overexerting,
which is thought to be one trigger for altitude sickness. Paying for a porter (on our last trip, about $13US per day per person) also helps give a job to a Nepalese local and helps spread some tourist-dollars into the poorer regions of the Himalaya. Trekkers are limited by how much they bring into the Himalaya in a few different ways. The first of course is the flight from home to Nepal, which is usually about a 30kg limit depending on the airline. One shouldn’t get carried away bringing too much to Nepal though, because you just must leave this stuff in your Kathmandu hotel for your return from the mountains. Once in Nepal it gets tighter; on the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla airport you are only meant to have around 10kg in your main-bag, and a further maximum 5kg in your carry-on (day bag). Finally, your porter is only meant to carry two or three bags totaling 30kg, so each guest is meant to keep their duffel at 10kg or less. To me, this is an honesty system: I for one wouldn’t want some poor tiny porter carrying all my unnecessary junk (or indeed, junk food): it’s best to pack light at each step of the way. I personally self-carry my gear and have done for three of my four trips to Nepal mostly for the exercise benefit of weighted walking. On this most recent trip my pack weighed in at about 18kg. My pack is heavier than most due to a group first-aid kit (probably not needed as our guides have a kit, but I always go prepared), down jacket and pants for the extreme cold up high, sleeping bag (-40 comfort), spare merino underlayers (I only made two changes the whole trip, you don’t get naked much in these temperatures!), scroggin and snacks (again, probably not really needed due to the ease of buying food in Nepal but good for emergency). Other gear included a personal locator beacon, hut-shoes, battery pack, some paperwork relating to everyone’s
insurances and flights, paper map, drink bottle (for when the Camelbak froze, from about 4500m), money, and of course a big camera. I was shooting with a brand-new Nikon mirrorless with two spare batteries. Got to get great shots! Call me old fashioned, but I had a book too, I have never gotten into Kindles. It’s certainly easy to let the weight creep up if you don’t pack smart; asking around my group afterwards, I think hard-cover books, too many snacks from home (some had 2kg of snacks!), too much water in the hydration pack and too many changes of clothes were the main regrets in peoples packing. Keep in mind that a 70liter pack (I had an Osprey 70+10) weighs 2-3kg empty so you must pack sparingly to stay under 10kg. In terms of water, you are certainly meant to drink 4-5 liters per day at altitude, but that doesn’t mean you need to carry it all day. As long as you have a sterilization system or boil the water before drinking (in my case I had AquaTab’s, one pill per liter) you can fill up throughout the day without needing to carry too much water, which is quite heavy. Just note that your hydration pack (at least the drinking tube) will freeze in winter so you need a backup, which for most people is a drink bottle. Be warned, a bottle left outside your sleeping bag at nighttime will freeze overnight even in your room, so you’re better to start the night with hot water supplied from the tea-house, use this as a hot-water-bottle, and then you have warm water to sip on the next morning. Hot water is usually 400rupees, circa $5NZD. I believe following in the footsteps of Sir Edmund Hillary through the Himalaya to Mt Everest Base Camp is something every Kiwi should do, at some point in their life. It is amazing physical exercise, a cultural eyeopener, and gives trekkers a real sense of achievement - no matter how far into the trek you get.
Check in to the next issue of Adventure Magazine to read how Rob and his team deal with altitude sickness in the Himalayas
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FROM CITY TO MOUNTAINS What's a weekend break all about? Having some time out, relaxing with friends and family, re-energising, and refreshing the soul. Has it been a while? Tongariro National Park is a popular destination in the summer months for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but did you know the earthy, volcanic landscapes of this Dual World Heritage Area have plenty of other outdoor pursuits for nature lovers? Slap on the sunblock and explore unknown tracks and hidden gems - there is an experience on offer for everyone. Make your first stop at the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre at Whakapapa Village, where the Department of Conservation works alongside our local i-Site to share extensive knowledge on trails and have 3D models showcasing where you are and how to get around.
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Whether you’re familiar with Tongariro National Park or not, wander into the Visitor Centre for all the information you need to make the most of your visit, including maps and information on local activities, short walks, viewpoints and great photography spots. The Visitor Centre and i-Site is open every day except Christmas Day. Whakapapa Village is the gateway to the magnificent walking trails. Parking inside Whakapapa Village is not a problem with purpose-built carparks open all hours of the day. Don’t have a car? Then seek out the many shuttle companies from your lodging to take you straight up and explore our backyard. From Whakapapa Village make the year-round snow-capped Mt Ruapehu your next stop. Take short drive up the mountain for some short hikes and then venture onto the Sky Waka - New Zealand’s latest and most technically gondola. Journey into the clouds as the Sky Waka travels 1.8kms through one of the North Island’s most rugged and spectacular
landscapes at Whakapapa. During your exploration, you will encounter glacial waterfalls and ancient lava flows - and just take in the majestic views of Mt Ruapehu and its neighbouring volcanoes, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. Like to research what short adventure suits you? Check out these websites:
www.nationalpark.co.nz
www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/central-northisland/places/tongariro-national-park/ www.mtruapehu.com/sky-waka www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz
"Tongariro National Park earthy landscapes has plenty of other outdoor pursuits for nature lovers. ” RECOMMENDED WALKS:
TONGARIRO CROSSING SHUTTLES -let’s wonder where the wifi is weak-
Taranaki Falls: A 2 hour loop to the falls that tumble 20m over the edge of a 15,000 year old lava flow. Silica Rapids: A 2 hour loop through mountain beech forest, the track travels alongside a cascading stream, arriving at the creamy white terraces of Silica Rapids. Has spectacular views of Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe on a clear day. Soda Springs: A 3 hour walk up Mangatepoppo Valley - the start of the Mighty Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Tawhai Falls: A movie set site from Lord of the Rings - 20mins return walk. Tama Lakes: Absorb the stark beauty and magical colours of two volcanic explosion craters (5 hours return via Taranaki Falls) The Mounds: Only a 10 minute walk, the mounds are believed to have been formed by debris avalanches during Ruapehu’s periods of volcanic activity thousands of years ago. Whakapapa Nature Walk: A 15 min loop track. Wheelchair accessible. See examples of the unique alpine flora of Tongariro National Park from the sealed loop track. A series of information panels explain the various zones of vegetation in the park.
6am-7am-8am-9am-10am departures $40pp round-trip - 100% refundable www.tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz Dual Heritage Tongariro National Park
Ridge Track: After a short climb through low beech forest, the track emerges into alpine shrublands with panoramic views of Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and the surrounding landscape. Return via same track. Meads wall and the Skyline Ridge Track are located on Whakapapa ski field. Experience isolation as your journey up an over volcanic terrain soaking in the deep canyons and views of all three volcanoes.
“Why Wait? Adventure starts here�
Tongariro National Park Villages
Dual Heritage Tongariro National Park www.nationalpark.co.nz
THE RING OF FIRE Line up in an event thousands of years in the making. Adventure running definition: the act of running and moving over vast expanses of mountainous like terrain and commonly including some technical elements that provide extra challenge such as underfoot conditions, elevation and atmospheric conditions. Adventure running is where a new breed of trail and offroad runners in New Zealand are redefining their limits with a total mind and body experience. A recent addition (established in 2018) to the kiwi adventure running-scene is the Ring of Fire Volcanic Ultra, 50km, 20km & relay that will take place on Saturday 21 March 2020. In the footsteps of the ancestors you will figuratively have fire in your heart and heels as you take on one of Australasia’s foremost adventure running events in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand’s oldest national park and a dual world heritage area for its breath-taking nature and enriching culture. The event offers the bucket list 72km solo ultra, starting and finishing outside the historic Chateau Tongariro Hotel in Whakapapa Village and circumnavigating Mount Ruapehu on the Round the Mountain track. A three-leg team relay comprising an average 24km per leg covers the same course. Also, on offer is a 50km ultra from Turoa Ski Area around the southern side of Mt Ruapehu back to the Chateau. A 24km trail traverse is offered on the final section of the course from Tukino back to Whakapapa Village. The Ring of Fire relay is a rare once a year opportunity to get together with your friends and family and do something extraordinary as a team in the greater outdoors. The course around the mountain features over 3,200m in vertical ascent through boulder strewn river valleys, native beech forests and alpine herb fields. Across lava fields, swing bridges, desert sands, and up the sides of soaring waterfalls. The events start from just before 4am through to midday with the last participants in the 72km Solo expected back by midnight. The evening finish line as the sun goes down is an eclectic vibe of music, mood lighting, craft beer and beverages and rousing commentary from knowledgeable and entertaining MC’s bringing athletes from around the world back to a memorable finish line. So, what are you waiting for? Get your mates together and come run where the mountains meet the sky in majestic Tongariro. Enter today at www.rof.co.nz.
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Runners make their passage across the Whangaehu River in the 2019 Ring of Fire Volcanic Ultra. Image compliments of Kurt Matthews
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ALEX MEGOS, TALKING OLYMPICS Alex Megos from Erlangen (GER) is one of the best German sport climbers. He was Vice European Bouldering Champion in 2017, Vice World Lead Champion in 2019 and won his first Lead World Cup in Briançon (FRA) in 2018. He has also made a name for himself in rock climbing with extremely fast repetitions of numerous difficult routes. He was the first German climber to qualify for the 2020 Games. In our interview, he talks about the new “Olympic Combined format, a mixture of the three disciplines Speed, Bouldering and Lead, as well as the mental aspects of the sport.
Left: Alexander Megos climbs Necessary Evil (5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge of Arizona. Image by Ken Etzel/Red Bull Content Pool
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Can you explain the differences between bouldering, lead and speed climbing? And which, for you, is the most difficult? Bouldering is sometimes described as the purest form of climbing. It is climbing without a rope on boulders or walls up to a height of around 4m. The individual moves in bouldering are very hard compared to the other disciplines, but in general a boulder only has up to 10 moves. When you fall off a boulder there are matts (indoors) or socalled crash pads (outdoors) underneath the boulder to lower the impact. Lead climbing is the discipline which most people would refer to when they say climbing. You climb on rocks, cliffs, indoor walls and you are climbing on a rope. So in case of a fall the belayer will catch your fall through the rope. Normally indoor walls are around 15m high and a route in a competition has around 40 to 50 moves. The individual moves are not as hard as in bouldering, but the length of the climbs are challenge. The more moves you do the more pumped you get in your forearms. Lactic acid in your forearms are normally the reason for why you fall on a lead climb whereas in bouldering the reason normally is that the moves are too hard or in case of a competition you don't find the right sequence of holds to climb the boulder. Speed climbing is the newest form of climbing. In speed climbing you always climb the same route and you try to climb that route as fast as possible. In order to be able to climb it fast you have to have every movement memorized and you have to do every move an infinite amount of times to study it to perfection. To climb fast you need a lot more explosiveness in your legs and arms than in the other two disciplines. Speed climbing is as well the most difficult discipline for me as I've only been doing it since a couple of years. I don't have a speed wall close by so the amount of speed training I did is not very high compared to the amount of time I put into my lead and bouldering training.
How does a pro-boulderer become an elite grade speed-climbing master in two short years? Personally I don't think that a climber from any discipline can become world class in any of the other disciplines if he hasn't done that discipline before. A boulderer or
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lead climber will not be able to get to a world class speed climbing level in two years and same goes for the other way around. With a lot of training one might get quite good at the other disciplines though.
foothold will feel like. Essentially, I'm trying to climb it in my mind while standing on the ground looking at the route.
Why should everyone tune in to watch the climbing events on Tokyo?
Beginners very often have mental barriers because of heights. Being high above the ground on a climb, only protected by a rope of course is scary for everyone at first. Through training and exposing yourself to mild fear and uncomfortable situations we can learn to deal with it and work on our mental weaknesses. Not giving up is key for improvement when it comes to physical and mental challenges.
Climbing as a sport has got a lot to offer. It's a fundamental movement like running and swimming. It's in the human’s nature to climb up on things. That's why climbing is a sport a lot of people are drawn towards.
Why should people tune into watch climbing at the Olympics? Because it'll be a very interesting competition where it's impossible to say how the outcome of the comp will be. With the scoring system of the combined format each score is dependent on how the other athletes do so it will be a thrilling competition till the very end.
How hard have you had to train in order to stand a chance of a gold medal? How has your training changed? Since I started competing my training has changed a lot compared to some years ago. Before u l was only training for rock climbs I wanted to do, so my training as a lot more specific according to the project I was working on. With getting back into comps I suddenly found myself training a lot more diverse. You never know what you will get at a comp, so you need to be prepared for all styles. I had to work on my weaknesses in order to be able to perform better. I incorporated speed climbing and more comp style bouldering in my training. That was probably the biggest change in my training routine.
When you look at a climbing wall, what do you see and how do you prepare mentally for it? Of course the longer you climb the more you see just by looking at a wall. In competitions it's essential to be able to look at a route or a boulder for a short amount of time and figure out how to climb it. So when I look at a climb, I try to find out what the easiest sequence is and how to climb it in the most efficient way possible. I look at possible rest positions, I try to imagine in which body positions I'll be in and how every hold and
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What's your advice to novice climbers when it comes to the mental side of the sport?
As our lives get busier, faster and more demanding than ever, is climbing is the perfect antidote to the pressures of modern life? Climbing is the cure for everything! ;-) haha. Well, I would see climbing as some sort of antidote yes. Our world is constantly about change and moving faster, climbing though is always the same in a way. And with the same I don't mean that climbing is monotonous. What I mean is that the idea of climbing is that you challenge yourself on a piece of rock. The challenge is always different, and the rock is too. Sometimes it's a physical challenge and sometimes it's a mental challenge. Sometimes it's not even a big challenge but the game itself never seems to change. And because of that climbing is a good escape from our fast, modern world.
What are you focusing on in the upcoming month till the Olympic Games? For the last few months of 2019 I'd like to go rock climbing a bit and enjoy the nature. From the beginning of next year I will focus again on plastic and on the training for the comps. I do still have to catch up with my speed climbing and my bouldering is still too dependent on whether or not it suits me, so I still need to work on my weaknesses.
What excites you most about climbing's debut at the Games? The most exciting thing for me will be the fact that I'm able to be part of the biggest sport event of all time. I was at the Olympics once to watch back in 2004 in Athens and since then the Olympics always stood for the biggest goal of an athlete.
Alex Megos at Voralpsee in Switzerland Image by Thomas Ballenberger / Red Bull Content Pool
"Climbing as a sport has got a lot to offer. It's a fundamental movement like running and swimming. It's in the human’s nature to climb up on things. That's why climbing is a sport a lot of people are drawn towards."
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"Bouldering is sometimes described as the purest form of climbing. It is climbing without a rope on boulders or walls up to a height of around 4m." Image by Ken Etzel/Red Bull Content Pool
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DIVE ADVENTURES AROUND NEW ZEALAND The breathtaking landscapes of New Zealand have graced movie theatre screens for decades and have held viewers around the world captivated, but how much do you know about diving in New Zealand? Did you know that between the diving around the North Island and the South Island, it would take a lifetime of dives to see it all? Try everything from incredible offshore diving at the Poor Knights Islands and exploring fiords, wrecks and sub-tropical reefs through to navigating kelp forests and swimming with dense schools of fish. It’s all possible in New Zealand! The Poor Knights Islands As a protected marine reserve, this is arguably New Zealand’s most famous diving area. The diverse underwater topography includes drop offs, walls, caves, swimthroughs, arches, tunnels and a wide variety of reef fish and marine creatures. The dive sites here are bursting with blue maomao, snapper, kingfish, morays and brilliantly colored nudibranchs. Larger tropical species are also spotted here and during the warmer periods, turtles, whales and even manta rays can be frequent visitors. There is a large resident (and visiting) population of sting rays which attract orcas who come to feed on them – a phenomenal sight. Bay of Islands This marine rich region is also known as the Bay of Plenty – for good reasons! Wreck divers are drawn to the area to dive the
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HMNZS Canterbury or the Rainbow Warrior (Greenpeace’s flagship vessel, bombed by the French Secret Service). Both of these iconic New Zealand wrecks are now encrusted in stunning colourful jewel anemones and have become part of the living reef. The wrecks are also home to an abundance of fish life and macro critters. This area is rich in New Zealand history and a must see for all visitors. Kaikoura The South Island town of Kaikoura is renowned for attracting sperm whales, dusky dolphins, New Zealand fur seals and albatross. Although a highlight here is to go swimming with the sea mammals, no trip is complete until you’ve explored the stunning kelp forests and limestone reefs here too. The Coromandel Peninsula Dotted with islands, this coastline provides many healthy dive sites. Hiding inside the kelp and crevasses you will find trevally and blue maomao. The Mercury Islands should not be missed. Here you can swim amongst schools of fish, sharks and look out for spot octopus in the marine reserve surrounding Mercury Islands’ waters. In the summer months large kingfish school with giant boar fish, john dory and tarakihi. A great variety of other marine animals inhabit these waters and some of the regular sightings include; moray eels, stingrays, wrasse, demoiselles, porcupine fish, snapper and many other vibrant species.
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The South Coast, Wellington This favourite shore dive for many divers, is home to a wide range of crustaceans and cephalopods. Rocky reefs and copious marine growth makes the area an attractive breeding ground for a large variety of other marine species too. Prepare for the unexpected as the South Coast is often full of surprises! Aramoana, Dunedin Within this region kelp forests lie along with several scuttled wrecks. Whilst the wrecks are a draw card for some, it is the varied marine life here which has put the region on the diving map. Macro aficionados will be kept entertained while looking for seahorses, nudibranchs, eels, crayfish and event carpet sharks. Those who prefer “big fish” will not be disappointed as the region attracts seven gill sharks, curious cod, greenbone, blue moki, wrasse and perhaps the most special of visitors – the New Zealand hooker sea lion. The area is also a voluntary marine reserve to ensure it remains at its best for divers. Despite the chilly southern South Island waters, this region rarely disappoints. Does New Zealand appeal to your sense of adventure both underwater and on land? No matter which region of this captivating country you choose to visit there are stunning diving opportunities just waiting to be seized. Visit padi.com to locate a PADI dive shop and get planning!
Contact your local PADI® Dive Center or Resort to learn more, or visit PADI.com © PADI 2020
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PHOTOGRAPHER: STU GIBSON LOCATION: Shipstern Bluff Tasmania THE SHOT: “At the bottom of Tasmania lies Shipstern bluff, I'm still not sure if this wave is amazing or just plain silly, but we all love it either way. We were shooting video with a drone that day, it was kind of grey and all of a sudden the sun came out so I quickly jumped in the water with my stills camera, about thirty minutes later it went really cold and ugly again, but I managed to get this bomb set of Mikey! Tassie is pretty known for its overcast gloomy days especially when we have a large swell underneath us, so if its ever sunny like that I'm always swimming.� Image courtesy Red Bull content pool
HOME IS WHERE YOU PARK IT Van life for many conjures up images of cramped spaces, rough living and eating out of a tin can, however van life does not have to be ‘squished’ and space limited. For our latest adventure our vanlife consisted of a 30ft luxury RV, fitted out with expandable rooms, a full fridge and freezer and a separate bedroom and ensuite, the complete antithesis of the perceived idea of ‘living in a van’. We had picked up our Roadbear RV in Denver, USA, and had roughly planned a route that would take us nearly 2000km, through 6 states and through 4 National Parks. Covering this many miles and this distance meant lots of driving to get from one point to the next, and having the RV that we could stop and take a drink, have something to eat or even take a rest whenever we wanted was a real asset. Some things we learnt from our few weeks of vanlife:
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Words and Images by Lynne and Steve Dickinson Be prepared for all weather. We were travelling through Wyoming in September and were not expecting snow! As you can see we got it...
"For our latest adventure our vanlife consisted of a 30ft luxury RV, fitted out with expandable rooms, a full fridge and freezer and a separate bedroom and ensuite, the complete antithesis of the perceived idea of ‘living in a van’.”
Biggest is not always best: We loved having the huge RV but with only two of us travelling, we probably could have done with something a little smaller. Many of the pullout or parking places in the National Parks didn’t cater well for anything larger than 25ft. Although the US has an amazing road system that caters for vehicles the size of our RV, there were roads where it was a challenge and it took a little pre planning. Another major consideration was the wind, we travelled through some areas there wind was…. amazing, scary and dangerous; the bigger the van the more you get shoved around. Don’t be fooled by reputation: Yellowstone National Park is the 8th largest National Park in the States covering over 2 million acres, yet it was my least favourite. Finding places to stay here was impossible and to leave the park for a night meant over an extra hour’s drive each way. It was also incredibly crowded, and we visited during the end of the season, supposedly the “quiet time”. Be flexible: Although we had wanted to spend more time in the Yellowstone area, the weather at the end of September became inclement and we really weren’t prepared for the cold. Keeping an eye on the forecast meant we could stay ahead of the colder wet weather and we changed our route to suit. In a two week period we experienced highs of 31degrees down to highs of 5degrees Celcius and varied our travel plans to keep away from the worst of it. Even the bison looked underwhelmed with Old Faithful at Yellowstone National Park
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Living the "van life" meant we could stop wherever the mood took us, in this case it was beside a river in Wyoming Do your research: Although we had data on our phones we were often without internet due to the remote locations we were visiting. So the fact that we had done most of the research before we went made it a little easier. Despite some solid planning before we left there were also so many places we simply “stumbled” across that turned into highlights; the Grand Teton’s being one of them. The Tetons had not been on our radar, but it was simply one of the access routes to Yellowstone and the one we chose to take. It turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip (more on that in the next issue).
One of the places we "stumbled" across, the Grand Tetons
Regardless of the amount of online research you may have done before your visit, nothing quite beats a stop at the local information or visitor centre. They have the most up to date information on track conditions, places to hike, etc and they also held valuable information about “boondocking”, or free camping as we like to call it. Give yourself time: Although all trips have to follow some sort of time schedule so you don’t miss your return flight, make sure you give yourself time when planning to stop for the unexpected. We came across so many interesting towns that we wish we had more time to explore. We would have been best to cover less distance so we could have spent more time exploring each place. However, it’s always a compromise, but one to keep in mind when planning.
Taking time to enjoy the town and vineyards of Loveland
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We did get to enjoy a couple of days at the end of our journey basing ourselves in the town of Loveland, just south of Fort Collins. We embraced the local life by hiring bikes and exploring the craft breweries of Fort Collins and the vineyards of Loveland and it was a great way to end our travels and a beautiful part of Colorado.
Bad can also be good: Badlands National Park, on the eastern side of South Dakota, was a real find. We almost didn’t get the extra distance but I think when you come from the green of New Zealand, seeing something like the Badlands is truly unique and different. Hiking in the area is fantastic, as is the photographic opportunities, although beware of rattlesnakes and make sure you carry plenty of water. Simply being in this unique environment was worth the drive. Not all is created equal: It seems that some States are abundant with outdoor adventure activities and simply gorgeous scenery, whereas others’ seem devoid of anything for miles and miles. You could spend months exploring Colorado, for example, as there are so many amazing and varied places within this State. On the other hand, Wyoming boasts the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone in the north-west of the State, however the majority of the area is covered in large plains and is so sparsely populated that the towns are spread a long way apart.
Colorado was abundant in outdoor adventure activities
Lastly I think the best advice we can offer is not to be too rigid, if the road gets too narrow, find a different way, if the crowd is too big, go somewhere else, the real joy of an RV - van life, is that life is where you park it and you can pretty much park where you like!
Hiking in Badlands National Park
LOOKING TO JUMPSTART YOUR VANLIFE By Jessica Middleton Van life is becoming increasingly more popular and there's definitely a reason for it, who wouldn't want this kind of freedom when it can be experienced as if you haven't left the comfort of your own home? Speaking of homes, owning a house nowadays is becoming an extremely difficult task. We, being Jordan Whitcombe and Jess Middleton decided to pursue our dream project of renovating a van and to us, that was buying our first house, yet better. In fact, we could transform our van exactly how we wanted to, and where we wanted to. Our van ‘Dusty’ is our greatest and happiest investment along with our pup Chet who also joins us on our travels. Just like anything in life, there is more than meets the eye, and sometimes this can become overwhelming if you are looking to get started into the van life movement. We have experienced this first hand and would love to be able to help those who may feel the same. Imagine, after going through the process of finding the right van, you are so excited to park up and dive into your new project but your left asking yourself “well now that's done, what's the next step?” Trust us, there are certain steps you need to take in order for the build to go smoothly. When we initially started our build a few years ago there was very little information or guidance for renovations, what's involved or what to expect. As a result, we had to figure a few things out on our own and have taken away some valuable information for our next project in the near future. Selecting Your Van Before you go ahead and purchase a van, you should test if you enjoy the ‘van life’ experience first. You could look at borrowing a friend's van or hire one out for a weekend getaway. We spent two months driving around Australia in a hired camper van as our first trial, the best decision for us. This gives you the opportunity to see what you feel comfortable with, or without, and gain an idea for the use of space, setup and layout. The beauty is with a van or bus they come in all different shapes and sizes and there's a huge variety on the market. You will find conditioned vans for those who are ready to jump straight into it or ones you can completely renovate yourself and use as a creative outlet. You will be quite surprised by all the little nifty compartments you can come up with to utilise an area with minimal space. Formulating the ideas is a great challenge and gets the brain firing, when it's successful you are able to include more of what you love, winning! Planning Your Layout We would recommend gaining inspiration from Instagram accounts, YouTube or Pinterest as these sites source the best information with new and updated content. We based our design from the hire van and took components from other van builds to create our own version. Having a seating area by day and bed by night is our preference as it supplies variation and assists in different moods and aesthetics. You need to be able to have easy access to all of your belongings and that each item has a home, therefore placement is key. There is nothing worse than having to unpack and repack your van every day. Installing Solar and Electrical You should install all of your electrical components first, as these need to be hidden under all of your walls and cupboards. Solar panels are the way to go in terms of supplying power to your van. This goes in hand with a dual battery which allows the van to run off different systems to avoid your car battery going flat, definitely not what you want if you are parked up in ‘Woop Woop’. Insulating Your Van It is not completely necessary to insulate your van but it will make your overall use enjoyable especially if you are planning to sleep in your van during cold winters and hot summers.
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Before you go ahead and purchase a van, you should test if you enjoy the ‘van life’ experience first.
"We would recommend gaining inspiration from Instagram accounts, YouTube or Pinterest as these sites source the best information with new and updated content. "
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Being nature lovers we wanted our van to feel homely yet exotic so added faux plants to the interior, installed lights behind the plants to give the sense of stars, wooden ceiling as a feature and we handpainted a wave for some colour and artwork.
"Van life doesn't mean you have to pack up your entire life and live completely out of your van, you can enjoy your van locally, as a home away from home or a holiday home." Fridge, Cooktop and Water System These all need to be energy efficient to your chosen power source supply, you will find fridges on the market that are specific for camper vans and output of the power unit. We prefer a door fridge, but many prefer a lift top fridge as they store more food. Portable cooktops can be placed out the back of vans, they are compact, inexpensive and easy to use and means you can have more bench space as it packs away neatly. You may prefer longterm travel where you can install a stovetop and oven and have a little kitchen area. You can purchase portable pop up sinks from your local camping stores which take up far less space or have installed a water pump and sink, it all comes down to preference. Our shower consists of a long PVC pipe attached to our roof racks, however, you can opt for warm shower units and portable pump showers, there are plenty of options to suit all budgets. Flooring, Walls, and Ceiling Bear in mind your vehicle runs on fuel which can come at an expense so it's best to equip your van with lightweight options that will withstand the constant movement of your
van on the road. Your local warehouse stores should have some convenient clip-in floorboard options which are easy to assemble and provide a quality finish. Vans are an organic shape but that adds to the fun of configuring your unique vans build. VJ board is commonly used for van walls as it is lightweight and somewhat malleable, there are other materials and options that can be used. Benches, Bed, and Cupboards We would recommend getting second-hand drawers or cupboards from a thrift shop as this will save you time and frustration if you are not confident with woodworking. Jordan made the cupboards for our van and did an amazing job but when it comes to sliding drawers it can prove a little more difficult. We installed lift up bench seats for storage and had wished we had of alternatively installed pull out drawers exiting the back of the van. Soft-close drawers are recommended and we shall use these for our next project as we currently have open-door cupboards which occupy more space. Never underestimate the superpower of a good night's sleep, its important your bed is comfortable, you really want to be able to wake up fresh and tackle the day. We chose to get
our cushions done with a premium foam which was measured up and fabricated perfectly. If your van is built as a bed permanently this can be a better comfort option as you can have a mattress. Personalised Touches Here you get to channel your creative side and detail your new home personalised to you and your interests. Being nature lovers we wanted our van to feel homely yet exotic so added faux plants to the interior, installed lights behind the plants to give the sense of stars, wooden ceiling as a feature and we handpainted a wave for some colour and artwork. Having surfboards racks inside the van means they are accessible, safe and secure. We have seen vans equipped for those who enjoy fishing, snowboarding, hiking, mountain biking, or whichever your heart desires. Van life doesn't mean you have to pack up your entire life and live completely out of your van, you can enjoy your van locally, as a home away from home or a holiday home. The opportunities are endless and open just like the roads we drive upon.
Folllow Jess and Jordan: @our_van_life_ | @jessmiddletonxo | @jordan_whitcombe
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PHOTOGRAPHER: FLORIAN LEDOUX LOCATION: Antarctica THE SHOT: “Kayaking in those wild and pristine landscapes of Antarctica was an experience beyond the real. Those huge icebergs and glacier behind made the moment one of the best in my life! It was also for me a best way to approach the wildlife” Image courtesy Red Bull content pool
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THIS ISSUE: inspiration: flying the high life mind: freedom camping Style: urban wear health: hydration myths busted business: adventure traveller / himalayan trust tech guide: speakers Diversion: travel books
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URBAN INSPIRATION FLYING THE HIGH LIFE FROM CLIMBING AND CAVING TO PERFORMING AROUND THE WORLD
By Sally Woodfield
Suspended 50 metres above the crowd, Arthur Meauxsoone spreads his angel wings and soars along the zipline strung between towering cranes. Below him, thousands of people turn their faces skyward, the joy evident and reaching up in wonder and delight. Feathers cascade around him and the feeling is “magic.
The son of well-known Belgian speleologist and documentary maker Guy Meauxsoone, Arthur says he has been caving and in the outdoors all his life. “When people asked me what I wanted to do when I was older, I would say I wanted to work as a speleologist and take people into caves. I love exploring new things and discovering new places.”
“It’s incredible,” he says. “This is why I do this.” Arthur (32) is one of 26 cast and crew with France’s Compagnie Gratte Ciel (trans: ‘skyscraper’), a company which specialises in grand scale performances with most of the cast coming from backgrounds in the outdoors industry – ropes specialists, caving and canyoning instructors, climbing experts, paragliders and base jumpers.
Arthur’s exploring has taken him into a few tight places at times including being seriously injured in his early 20s while exploring a new cave in Mexico’s Puebla region with his father and three climbing partners.
Compagnie Gratte Ciel comes to New Zealand in March to perform Place Des Anges in Auckland Domain exclusively as part of Auckland Arts Festival for three nights with 10,000 people attending each night. Written and directed by Pierrot Bidon and Stéphane Girard, Place Des Anges has been performed around the world entrancing audiences of all ages in France, Canada, Poland, Argentina, England, Sweden, Russia, South Africa and Australia. Like Arthur, Rémy Legeay (32) comes from an outdoors background as a ropes expert and has been with Gratte Ciel for 10 years – he heard of the company while training as a ropes instructor, and a few years later Stephane invited him to join. As well as performing, he’s the company’s head rigger and aerial designer and is in charge of overall safety, of the ‘angels’ and the public attending the show. “In Auckland we’re working 50 metres above the ground, but in some countries where we have performed from buildings, we have been up to 100 metres above the audience. Safety is the most important thing for me – making sure everyone is safe. So while I love all the special moments of performing the show, I’m also very focused on keeping an eye on everybody and the whole installation.” Rémy’s commitment to safety and design, and a brain which he says “thinks about the mechanics of what needs to be done”, has also seen him working with high wire walkers on major installations including the 300 metre crossing of the river Volga in Prague and he’s now collaborating with high wire walkers to use textile ropes – a major departure from the traditional use of metal wire. While Rémy has spent a lifetime working at heights, for Arthur it’s a different story. A caving and canyoning instructor, and outdoors enthusiast, Arthur has been with Compagnie Gratte Ciel for six years and says performing as an angel in the show is a far cry from being underground discovering new caves in Mexico, exploring the caves near his home town in Lyon, France, or experiencing the beauty of the ice caves at Mount Blanc.
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While 300m underground, a piece of the wall, including the anchor point, gave way and sliced through the rope. Arthur fell 35 metres and was stranded at the bottom with three other climbers and leaving only Guy on the surface. French, Belgian and Mexican climbers were involved in the rescue. A year later Arthur returned to the Tipitcli cave and pushed the cave further to a length of 1000 metres and a depth of 658 metres. “All experiences are good – you learn from those accidents.” One of the climbers on that expedition was Place Des Anges director Stéphane Girard. “My parents have known him for many years and he’s been on numerous expeditions with them. About six years ago he invited me to join the company. “I love everything about the show – travelling to new places, being part of the team and the feeling of doing the show for the audience. There’s so much love shared between you and the people and that connection is really powerful for me.” Arthur admits that working high above the ground took some adjustment after being more comfortable underground. “There are times when I’ve been scared about being at height, but then during the show you’re in the moment and feeling what’s happening all around you and with the audience. “It’s an incredible feeling. You look down and there’s no young or old, there’s no difference or confrontation between people … everyone is smiling and people forget their troubles and they are just filled with joy and wonder.” Rémy adds that seeing the audience respond to the show makes all the months of preparation worthwhile. “We see the joy this brings to people and that is the best thing.” And while packing for the New Zealand season, Arthur and Rémy have both added their personal climbing, hiking and caving equipment and are staying on to experience New Zealand’s outdoors. “When I was a kid we looked at an atlas and talked about where we would like to go during life,” says Arthur. “I saw New Zealand on the map and I’d heard about all the mountains, the oceans and the wildlife and I said I’d like to go there. Coming to New Zealand is a dream come true and I can’t wait to go hiking, caving and canyoning.”
Rémy Legeay
Arthur Meauxsoone
Remy and Arthur are part of a company which specialises in grand scale performances with most of the cast coming from backgrounds in the outdoors industry – ropes specialists, caving and canyoning instructors, climbing experts, paragliders and base jumpers.
Flying as an angel: Rémy Legeay
Place Des Anges is on in Auckland 13-15 March at Auckland Domain. Details aaf.co.nz/placedesanges
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URBAN MIND JUST WHAT IS FREEDOM CAMPING? By Bob Osborne – (Secretary of Responsible Campers Association Inc)
At this Campsite controlled by Whakatane District Council, tents outnumbered other forms of camping 3-1. No litter or other reason for complaint was discovered over a 7-day period, Christmas - New Year 2019-2020. When tents outnumber those in Motorhomes and Caravans so obviously and without complaint, where is the real cause of problems? All we saw in 7 days was families really enjoying themselves in NZ’s great outdoors.
Responsible Campers Association Inc has been developed to represent all freedom campers – this is the stand they are making, for the full feature go to adventuremagazine.co.nz
have skewed the debate and regulatory responses against another group of campers, so called ‘vanpackers' who tend to be younger and are more likely to use smaller, non-selfcontained vehicles".
For many years now, when mainline media and councils talk about freedom campers they refer to Motorhomes and Caravans. Very rarely do we hear mention of any other form of freedom campers.
Interesting that even the Department of Internal Affairs fail to correctly interpret the Freedom Camping Act and who are defined as campers under that legislation adding further confusion to the situation..
But just what is a freedom camper and who does it concern? The freedom Camping Act 2011 defines the meaning of freedom camping, if you would like to read this in full you can at adventuremagazine.co.nz Freedom camping in New Zealand, also referred to as free camping or in the US as boondocking, is where roadtrippers and campers set up overnight in public places which are not identified as campgrounds or holiday parks. As time has gone on and Council’s restrict Freedom Camping due to the lobbying of large Motorhome type clubs, we see more Councils insist that all Freedom Campers are ‘certified self contained’ (NZS;5465 in the act) which is in denial of the right (yes we have a ‘right’ to camp) of freedom campers who use the traditional methods of tents and bivouacs to camp. Unfortunately only Motorhomes and Caravans can be certified as compliant. Regrettably while the standard can assist a camper to be responsible it does not make them responsible, the persons camping have to make that decision for themselves just as a non-certified selfcontained camper has to. The Department of Internal Affairs (DIA) stated in a 2017 freedom Camping report that; "....Much of the available evidence puts forward the point of view of one group of campers who tend to be older New Zealanders in larger self-contained vehicles, so-called ‘grey nomads’. This group are part of a trend towards ‘glamping’, valuing luxury as well as independence and an outdoors experience. Advocacy on behalf of this group may
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So what does it all mean for me? If you camp within 200 metres of a motorvehicle accessible area, the Freedom Camping Act and indeed any restrictions that a Local Government agency (Councils etc) enact under the FCA apply to you. This could include kayaker’s / rafter’s pulling up on a river bank, lake shore etc to camp the night, cycle tourists and mountain bikers camping the night as well as mountaineer’s and trampers. People like surfers, who will often sleep in their cars until the early morning to be ready to catch the morning breaks, divers, fisherpersons, and others whose only reason for camping is as a sideline to other recreational activities, homeless people sleeping in cars, and the list goes on. Freedom Camping as defined in legislation (Freedom Camping Act 2011) involves far more than Motorhomes and Caravans. While you may consider the restrictions potentially placed on your adventurism activities are not actually impacting on you presently, be aware that in time they will. The only way to prevent that happening and to get the freedom camping situation back on a fair and level playing field for all freedom campers is to act now. Our Responsible Campers Association Inc has been developed to represent all freedom campers to achieve this goal. We invite Representative’s from organizations and individual’s concerned about this ongoing situation to join us and contact can be made thru our website accreditedcampernz.com
NATURE AND YOUR HEALTH By Brian Megaw - River Valley
I wanted to write about was something that to me was common sense and I knew to be true. That is the link between feeling good in oneself, and taking time out in nature. Or as our German guests often say – “Ve come to Neu Zeeland because ve vant to be in za nature”. Maybe a short walk might help. What is the Link Between Nature and Health? Scientists, (and I would think common sense) have long known that there is a link between sunlight, natural settings and human well being, however new research has expanded those findings. This new research is finding that as little as five minutes in a natural setting, whether it be gardening or walking in a park, improves mood, self esteem and motivation. An example of this is a study done by the University of Essex in 2007 that found that a walk in the country reduced depression in 71% of the participants. These findings, and others have resulted in the coining of a new phrase in medical treatments, namely – Ecotherapy. Surely a Few Minutes Walking in the park will not be a Cure All? No, a few minutes wandering amongst the flowers is not going to suddenly be a cure all for all the conditions affecting modern man. John F. Kennedy University Ecotherapy Professor, Craig Chalquist, PhD, co-author of Ecotherapy: Healing with Nature in Mind, had this to say about Ecotherapy practices. “They do not represent a cure for the woes of industrial civilization, nor can they be judged by expectations more appropriate to a body of knowledge and practice examined by many years of research.” In other words, research thus far has not proven that spending time in nature – while admittedly part of a healthy lifestyle – can prevent, treat, or cure any particular condition. But it can certainly make you feel better.
When Should a Focus on Exercise and Time Spent in Natural Surroundings be Started? The focus needs to start with children. No surprises there. There is plenty of research that says that children need at least 60 minutes of physical activity (preferably outside) per day. Outdoor time is beneficial for children’s physical, cognitive, social, and emotional development. However, what is especially interesting is where the children’s physical activity becomes part of the whole families activity. A walk to the Park as a family group has benefits way beyond simple exercise. There is excitement in doing something together that benefits everyone. So you see where all this is going don’t you? Therapist, Eric Marlowe Garrison, MAEd, MSc, says this, “I can’t deny what I’m seeing with my clients,” he says. “There’s a world of benefit to being out in nature.” When you feel the lack of a creative spark, when the glare of fluorescent lighting gets just too much, Go take a Hike, or if a five minute walk in the park won’t quite do it, then dare I say it, a River Trip, or a Horse Riding Holiday may be what you are looking for. River Valley can help you out with the river and riding therapy. Our range of half day to multi day rafting trips, and two-hour horse treks to multi day horse riding holidays can provide a natural outdoor experience that may be just what your mind and body needs. Either browse our website to find a natural outdoor experience for you or your family, or contact us by email or phone. River Valley Lodge: rivervalley.co.nz p: 0800 248 666 | e: info@rivervalley.co.nz
What is the Point Then if Ecotherapy cannot Prevent, Treat or Cure any Particular Condition? In a 2010 Japanese study of “Shinrin-yoku” (defined as “taking in the forest atmosphere, or forest bathing”), for example, researchers found that elements of the environment, such as the smell of the trees and plants, the sound of running stream water, and the scenery of the forest can provide relaxation and reduce stress. Those taking part in the study experienced lower levels of cortisol, (a steroid hormone released by the body in response to stress), a lower pulse rate, and lower blood pressure. These results would indicate that not only did these participants feel better, but their bodies reacted in a positive way to the natural surroundings.
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URBAN TRAVEL STYLE Chaco Confluence $139.95 The beach-minded Confluence borrows elements of the Z sandal for your next sun and sand adventure. Stylish yet performance-driven, with 2.5mm-deep lugs for tons of different terrain. chacos.co.nz
Rab Momentum Pull-on $139.95 Perfected for moving at pace to through the mountains, the Momentum Pull-On is designed for those looking for that extra layer of protection in varied conditions. Ideal for a cool morning MTB ride or alpine run. Made from durable, wind-resistant Matrix softshell with a UPF50+, this versatile layer protects from both the wind and sun while highly breathable Motiv side panels ensure full freedom of movement. Stripped back and uncomplicated, the slim-fit Momentum Pull-On features a deep venting chest zip, soft chin guard and single chest pocket that doubles as a stuff sack when the jacket is not in use. outfitters.net.nz Chaco Z/CLOUD $159.95 Want your Classic Sandals with pillow-top comfort? Introducing our travel-ready Z/Cloud series, featuring our same custom adjustable strap system, performance ChacoGripTM rubber outsole, and a top layer of ultra-soft PU for instant-cushion underfoot. Every pair comes standard with our podiatrist-certified LUVSEATTM PU footbed for all-day comfort and support. Step in and feel the difference. chacos.co.nz Chaco Odyssey $179.95 Overcome rivers, trails, and expectations. The all-terrain, closed-toe Odyssey sport sandal delivers the durability of a hiker, the freedom of a barefoot trainer, and the performance you need from land to water. chacos.co.nz
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Rab Momentum Shorts $99.95 From steep climbs up jagged peaks to traversing ridges, the Momentum Shorts are designed for covering greater distances at pace. Made from lightweight but durable Matrix™ double weave fabric they offer full freedom of movement when hiking, running or scrambling in the mountains. Treated with a DWR these shorts will repel water during light showers and dry quickly. Features are stripped back with a simple elasticated waistband with drawcord adjustment, a zip pocket in back waistband and two hand pockets. Available in mens and womens styles outfitters.net.nz
Men's Line Logo Ridge Pocket Responsibili-Tee $59.95 This 100% recycled pocket T-shirt is made from 4.8 plastic bottles and .26 pounds of fabric scrap, and saves 63 gallons of water compared to a conventional cotton T-shirt. Fair Trade Certified™ sewn. patagonia.com.au
Patagonia Women's Fleetwith Dress $109.95 The Fleetwith Dress was built for hiking, traveling and general getting out and about. Made from a 91% recycled polyester/9% spandex blend that’s quick-drying and resists wrinkling. Fair Trade Certified™ sewn. patagonia.com.au
Lowe Alpine Pioneer $169.95
Marmot Windridge LS $69.95
Inspired by alpine summits, the Pioneer 26 litre day pack is based on original Lowe brothers design from 1985. The perfect companion whether you’re roaming the mountains or exploring the urban jungle, the Pioneer 26 combines retro styling with urban features. With a zipped ‘bucket’ style opening, an internal organiser with zipped security pocket keeps your valuables in order. An external padded laptop compartment which fits a 15" laptop, external zipped lid and front pockets keep your essential items to hand. Made with tough canvas fabric and featuring leather details, the Pioneer is ideal for commuting, day hikes and urban adventures.
A classic training shirt, the UPF 50 semifitted quick-drying performance knit of the Windridge Long Sleeve is ideal for highenergy pursuits of all kinds. Emblazoned with our venerable logo, this lightweight piece is finished with flat-locked seams for added comfort.
outfitters.co.nz
marmotnz.co.nz
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URBAN BUSINESS THE GROWTH OF ADVENTURE TRAVEL
"Alongside this hardcore growth in adventure travel has been the development of ‘soft' adventure. Those holiday trips where one day you are by the pool the next you are out rafting or diving or swimming with whales, those vacations where there is a mixture of relaxation in a nice hotel coupled with core activities."
Over the last forty years, Adventure has seen a lot of changes, the woolly jumpers have been discarded (in most cases) to be replaced by technical, profession-specific clothing. Offshore adventures are now no longer just for a select few but for everyone. People are venturing further and further afield to find new, exciting and unique experiences. But the side development to this that no one saw coming was the growth of both hard and soft adventure holidays. There has grown a whole industry taking people on ‘holiday' to the far corners of the world, even Base Camp at Everest for a trip of a lifetime. Last week a company in the US was offering ski and snowboard tours to the slopes of Everest! Alongside this hardcore growth in adventure travel has been the development of ‘soft' adventure. Those holiday trips where one day you are by the pool the next you are out rafting or diving or swimming with whales, those vacations where there is a mixture of relaxation in a nice hotel coupled with core activities. These types of ‘holidays’ feature in Adventure magazine, website and social media. But there is so much growth we had to establish a second website www.adventuretraveller.co.nz to pick up the over the flow of material. www.adventuretraveller.co.nz and @adventuretravellermag (on Instagram) have been going over a year, and already, there are over 10,000 followers on Instagram. Online you will find specific activities and destinations plus gear and ''hot’ deals. If adventure travel is on your radar check out www.adventuretraveller.co.nz and follow @adventuretravelermag and we will keep you up to date to what’s new and what’s trending. Feel free to send us images and stories of your adventures.
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URBAN CHARITY
STRIVING FOR A CHALLENGE TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE Last March, Nick Vaughan from Wellington took part in the Himalayan Trust Summit Challenge, not only smashing the challenge to climb 8848m within a month but tripling the elevation to climb a staggering 26,544m. Nick was one of hundreds of Kiwis who climbed the height of Everest in March to raise funds for the work of Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust in Nepal. “The Summit Challenge appealed to me in several ways,” said Nick. “There’s the mental and physical challenge of pushing yourself to achieve a goal as well as the challenge to make a real difference for people in Nepal. “My connection to Nepal started eight years ago. I took part in a leadership course that showed me how I need to lead myself first and that I needed to learn how to serve others truly. I found that once you open yourself up, then the universe has a wonderful way of connecting you to others. “Then within a couple of months of the course, I was made redundant. As was sitting at my desk on a Monday morning thinking about what to do next. I suddenly thought – I’ve always wanted to go to Nepal. The next week I was on a plane to Nepal to trek to Everest Base Camp.
“On that trip I met a great bunch of people and the Khumbu region was such a peaceful and stunning part of the world. “Seeing the difference that Sir Ed made to this region made me proud to be a Kiwi. The locals say that Sagarmatha (the local name for Everest) allowed Hillary to climb her as he would be the one to use his fame to give back to the region. Which he did immensely. “Taking on the Summit Challenge was a chance to give back to others and this was far more fulfilling than personal success. I decided to do triple the elevation as I knew it would take some dedication to achieve and would be a great way to inspire friends and family to sponsor me. “I cycled and ran the challenge, including one very memorable ride where I did the both sides of the Akatarawa hills, Rimutakas and Moonshine hill. That was a distance of 176km and over 3000m elevation – all in one day. “What kept me going was knowing first-hand how this would change the lives of people in Nepal, which is still one of the poorest countries in the world. “I’m already thinking about the challenge this year and let’s see who can join us in raising money for a great cause and getting themselves fit at the same time.” To find out more about the Himalayan Trust Summit Challenge visit summitchallenge.org
Climb the height of Everest for the people of Nepal. Anywhere, anytime during March 2020 • Bike, walk or run • Go solo or as a team Register now at www.summitchallenge.org
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URBAN OPINION
In my opinion
What do you really think?
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Do you think TripAdvisor is an asset or a blemish for travel industry? Michael Smithers – Reader/Facebook
I hate Tripadvisor – it’s just too unbelievable. A couple of times I have booked a place and was locked into it then looked it up on Tripadvisor and the review were a horror story, only to go and really loved it. In Fiji I spoke with the owner re Tripadvisor’s bad review and he said it had been written by a local competitor, so I call BS on TripAdvisor.
Katherine Prague – Reader/Facebook
Love Tripadvisor would never book anywhere without checking there first. I always write an honest review, it’s just my opinion but I hope it helps others.
Wadzinski ? Jeremy Writer
Trip Advisor and the plethora of websites and Apps similar to it are a tool just like anything else used when travelling. And just like all tools, they’re only as useful as the person wielding them. As with any peer-topeer evaluation system the ratings can be corrupted or skewed to either give something too high or too low a rating, but while we were travelling around the world, we found it invaluable. It helped us find many restaurants, hotels and experiences we would have missed or overlooked. Nothing beats a deep dive into researching a place or a culture. But, when you don’t have the luxury of time, it works great to give you a quick overview of a destination. As with all things on the internet, it’s best to take all advice with a healthy dose of skepticism. Be informed, don’t be gullible.
Dickson ? Marke Director, Marketing, Panorama Mountain Resort
Search for Trip Advisor on Google and you’ll see “Latest Reviews, Lowest Prices” showing that what started as an online forum (deliberately) is now a revenue generating online travel agency. Is it an asset or a blemish? Perhaps the question any traveller should ask themselves is, what’s the real story behind the reviews posted on sites like these? Did the writer have an argument with their partner before checking in? Or, were they upgraded to business class on the flight to their spectacular hotel? Why do we value anonymous postings the same way we do recommendations, or otherwise, from friends? Not that long ago we decided what we wanted out of a holiday, grabbed some brochures and made a decision (with high hopes but reasonable expectations). These days, we spend night after night reading reviews from unknown and faceless contributors who likely confuse us more than they help. If you want advice about a destination there’s still nothing better than talking to a travel professional. In terms of feedback, positive and negative, think old-school and go directly to the business concerned. Operators with strong values will always respond, do their best to make things right, and use the information to make the experience better for the next visitor. If they don’t, vote with your feet and your wallet.
Messenger ? Andrea Plateau Lodge
Remember back in the days before review sites were commonplace, how did we review our travel plans or book the journey to do something special. It’s now all at the end of our fingertips to discover – explore – compare. We have had no choice but to accept the giants of the cyber world: Look at Google (to search)– Amazon (to buy books)- Uber (to order a cab). Over time, Tourism largely accepted that TripAdvisor wasn’t going away, even as we watched it turn our industry into an online review booking platform. The online world has changed pretty much every industry. Bad reviews can be devastating for business, great reviews are perfect to building a business. We really have had no choice but to pull our socks up and just get on with what the expectation is and join the rollercoaster ride.
Paige Hareb Professional surfer and extensive traveller
have tried to use Tripadvisor before but I think it’s a waste of time as I have never found the best deal for hotels or flights. Also never found a good restaurant in there as I feel the app is almost made for the “older” market so there’s no cool, young cultures cafes on there. The best cafes I’ve found is through Instagram or word of mouth or just stumbling across them. For accommodation, my go to is either Airbnb, VRBO in America, Hawaii and sometimes Europe and then any airport hotels I just use booking.com. So final answer is no I don’t use, like or recommend TripAdvisor.
Luke Boddington Rafting NZ
From an operator's perspective Trip Adviser is a valuable and effective tool for our business. From reviews left by our clients we can review our "trip" offerings and critique our products and services. We also get the "feel good" factor from receiving complimentary remarks were customers have highly enjoyed their time with us. As an operation we can review each guide's performance and look at how many reviews each guide receives per month, then place against the amount of trips they guide - from this evaluation we award the guide with best ratio each month an award - so to incentivise the guides to deliver an exceptional service on a consistent basis. If you maintain a high rating on Tripadvisor then it is also a valuable marketing tool and aide for the business to utilise. Of course as with everything there is the downside of clients potentially leaving negative remarks about their time with us and if these comments seem unjustified then that "hurts" but mostly if there are negative comments received, it is seen as valuable information that we use to review our products and services against so to improve if required.
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URBAN MIND NZ SUPPORTS GROWTH IN GREEN TRAVEL Recently Webjet revealed increased demand for eco-friendly destinations and shares tips for travelling greener:
New Zealanders are renowned for their love of nature and sense of community, and Webjet.co.nz has revealed a growing demand for green travel among Kiwis, with striking uplift in travel to famed eco-tourism destinations, such as Borneo, over the last five years. CEO David Galt explains, “We know New Zealanders are increasingly conscious of their impact on the environment, not just when they are at home, but when they head away too. Over the last five years, we’ve seen significant increase in Kiwis taking off to locations that offer eco-friendly opportunities. From domestic travel to Christchurch (+24%) where Kiwis can swim with endangered dolphins; to Cairns (+131%) as the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef; Borneo (+112%), the jungle paradise home to orangutan sanctuaries; and Nepal (135%*), renowned for its protected reserves and Himalayan hikes. * Searches for trips to Costa Rica are up by two thirds year-onyear (+61%) **, and travel to the idyllic islands of the Philippines is up a staggering 657%*. The lure of some of the Philippines’ most incredible natural sites, such as the magnificent Apo Island Marine Reserve, has never been more tempting for New Zealand eco-warriors.” Galt says that green travel, however, isn’t limited to visiting locations known for conservation efforts or sustainability projects. It is also about making simple choices that help lessen your impact on your chosen holiday destination. From small habits tourists can take along any road they travel, to how to make as little impact on the natural habitat as possible, Webjet shares 10 ways you can be kinder to the environment while on your next holiday.
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1.CHOOSE A DESTINATION THAT DELIVERS MORE: Look to destinations that offer opportunities to support local ecosystems. From swimming with protected Hector’s dolphins near Christchurch, to visiting the Great Barrier Reef or the Daintree Rainforest in Queensland with sustainable tour operators, your trips to these destinations are an amazing way to support ongoing conservation work.
composting and even rooms designed to retain or keep out the heat. 6.GO INDEPENDENT: Support the regional economy and help funnel funds back into the community by using local tour guides where possible. A bit of research beforehand is all that is needed to track down the best local guides.
2.GO DIGITAL: Opt for electronic tickets, itineraries and boarding passes if you can, saving these to your mobile for use. If you do have any printed tour guides, make sure you recycle properly when you depart, or repurpose them by leaving them for future travellers to enjoy.
7.SENSIBLE SIGHTSEEING: Keen hikers should stay on marked trails, maintain a safe distance from animals and deposit of all rubbish correctly if it can’t be taken with you. Those looking to snorkel or dive should choose a reef-safe sunscreen and be vigilant about not touching coral as this can damage the fragile marine ecosystem.
3.SWITCH OFF: Before you even leave home for the airport, you can help reduce your environmental footprint just by turning off power points and unplugging electronic devices. Not only does this save energy consumption, but it will also reflect on your electricity bills!
8.LIVE ON LOCAL: Need to stock up on snacks while away? Visit a farmers’ market or coop to pick up locally-grown produce that doesn’t come wrapped in plastic. Farmers’ markets are great way to get to know the community and even tap into the local knowledge of the area.
4.REFILL: You make an effort to reduce use of single-use plastic and waste at home, and these practices should be taken with you while travelling, too. Taking a refillable water bottle and reusable tote or carry bag with you on holiday is a simple way of not contributing to singleuse plastic waste.
9.HOME-AWAY-FROMHOME: Rather than having your hotel towels and linen changed every day, act like you would at home and reuse them. It is an easy way to cut your water wastage while away.
5.SLEEP GREEN: When it comes to places to stay while away, do some research to see what environmentally-friendly practices a preferred hotel or resort has in place. Some of the things to look for include solar panels, rainwater tanks,
10.TRANSPORT TIPS: You need to get around when visiting a new place, and using two feet or two wheels is one of the greenest forms of transport. Those that can’t walk or cycle can make use of local public transport. Try to only used motorised transport in the case of reaching further afield locations.
Galt finishes, “With an abundance of eco-friendly locations and accommodation options now available – alongside great deals and improved connections from major cities through South East Asia and beyond – it’s a great time to explore some of the inspiring sites nature has to offer, without leaving too much of an impact as you go.”
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KTI PLB personal emergency locator beacon SA2G-NZ 406MHz $339.00
The New Zealand Coded Safety Alert personal emergency locator beacon SA2G-NZ 406MHz PLB is compact, fast and reliable; making it the ultimate global rescue link for people who want peace of mind in the outdoors. A free Soft Pouch and arm band are also included. Free contitional battery replacemet if used in a genuine emergency. www.safetybeacons.co.nz
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Brux Pour Over Coffee System BRuX is based on a simple concept: Flavour and convenience shouldn’t be mutually exclusive. So, Boco put the pour-over flavour you’d expect from your favourite coffee shop into a system that’s as adventure ready as you are. The tasteful and simple design makes brewing a breeze and stainless-steel vacuum insulated bottle ensures that your coffee stays hot for hours. It’s on-the-go convenience with countertop quality flavour. www.bocoliving.com
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c Gloworm CX The CX is much more than a well-priced commuter light – the CX takes all-in-one lighting into the future. The CX uses custom replaceable optics to produce a beam perfect for the desired application, for convenience it is USB chargeable and can be mounted seamlessly on the bars or helmet. www.glowormlites.co.nz d Gloworm X2 Adventure The X2 Adventure is the svelte brother of the Original X2. The X2 Adventure features the same specifications as the X2 with the exception of the Battery and Runtime. The X2 Adventure is shipped with a 2-cell battery (Half the size and weight of the 4-cell version), allowing the system to be used more comfortably on a headstrap or helmet without too much loss of runtime. CNC machined from a single block of 6061-T6 Alloy and weighing a mere 89g, the X2 turns night into day. www.glowormlites.co.nz e
Fitorch P26R Torch with Battery P26R is a well gripped, high-output max 3600 lumen outdoor LED flashlight. Holds a CREE XHP70.2 LED, powered by 1*26650 rechargeable 5000mAh battery. 4 illumination modes (Turbo-High-Medium-Low) and Strobe, SOS tactical function, power detection and location beacon built in. www.outdooraction.co.nz
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SunSaver Super-Flex 14-Watt Solar Charger $199.00 Putting out over 2.5-Amps of output on a sunny day you’ll charge your phone and devices in no time at all, straight from the sun. www.sunsaver.co.nz
g SunSaver Classic 16,000mAh Solar Power Bank $99.00 Built tough for the outdoors and with a massive battery capacity you can keep all your devices charged no matter where your adventure takes you. www.sunsaver.co.nz 78//WHERE
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FOR YOUR EARS Originally smart speakers were all about the art of using your voice to control you’re the speaker, but the newest offerings go far beyond that. The new breed of speakers are packed with power and depth that does justice to your playlist. We looked at some and listened to some at are currently on the shelves. Its is a fast moving a developing category so it would pay to do your own investigation when purchasing.
JBL Link 20 The JBL Link 20 is a great portable speaker. It can connect via Bluetooth, but also has Wi-Fi with Google Assistant built in, so you can say "Hey Google" and you will get a reply. It's easy to use and has helpful indicators so you know if it has a solid connection and when it's running out of battery. It's waterproof, it even floats, and gets 10 hours per charge? UE Boom 3 There are more powerful Bluetooth speakers, but none match the fun and convenience of the Ultimate Ears Boom 3. It puts out great sound for its size. The waterproof cylinder comes in multiple colours and it can last 15 hours between charges and gives you 100 feet of Bluetooth range. On top of all that, it has a two-year warranty.
Sonos Move If you want a Bluetooth speaker that can fill any room, the Sonos Move is a good speaker to build a home network around. Its speakers connect to nearly every streaming service, and they work with Google Assistant or Alexa. They also sound amazing by every measure. Just know that the Move is primarily a wireless speaker that streams over your Wi-Fi network, but it also functions as a Bluetooth speaker when you take it outside, or anywhere away from Wi-Fi.
Apple HomePod This small stylish speaker delivers big, clear sound without much distortion. A ring of seven tweeters (little speakers) broadcast out in a full circle, so you can put HomePod in the middle of a room. Setup is easy but, being Apple, it fails to work with all platforms. If not using Apple Music, you can AirPlay apps like Pandora or Spotify, you just can’t control them with Siri.
Harman Kardon Citation 300 A balanced speaker with thumping bass and little distortion, even at high volume. Bohemian rhapsody on full noise roared with clear vocals and thumping base. With an LCD screen, the Harman had the best interface away from a smartphone, including adjustments to bass levels. Plus, it was easy to pair with the Google Home app.
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URBAN DIVERSION
We've searched the internet for some great travel needs...
A Moveable Feast
The Art of Travel
Medium Raw
A Movable Feast’ is a compilation of short stories from famous chefs, writers and foodies around the world. They all share a love of food and the power it has to bring people together. Reading the short stories will give you a glimpse of the culture and induce a serious case of food lust.
Many travel-themed books play to our daydreams about travel, but de Botton takes a brutally honest and philosophical look at why we travel and brings to light truths that we don't want to see or believe, namely that the fantasies we have about a place can often be better than the reality we encounter once we arrive. He's incredibly articulate when describing the mundane moments of travel that we often glaze over in memory. It's not just about the moments of grandeur but every little element is part of the whole experience.
There’s a special place in every traveller’s heart for Anthony Bourdain. But between his award-winning TV shows and bestselling books, it’s hard to choose which part of his storytelling is most influential. He comes to us in this book a little older, a little more worn, and above all, wiser and apologetic for his staunch stances of the past. He's still the same Anthony Bourdain, with the same convictions about what makes good cooking, but the years on the road have softened his soul in this memoir. This book is a lot more of an insight into both the man and his travels.
A Woman Alone
Vagabonding ‘Vagabonding easily remains in my top-10 list of life-changing books. Why? Because one incredible trip, especially a long-term trip, can change your life forever. And Vagabonding teaches you how to travel (and think), not just for one trip, but for the rest of your life.”—Tim Ferriss, from the foreword.
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The sheer number of “what ifs” when considering a solo trip is enough to keep many travelers at home. “A Woman Alone” will help you conquer the fear of exploring alone and encourage you to do it on your own terms. “‘A Woman Alone’ is filled with relatable stories from solo female travellers that are real, transparent and uplifting. This book will give you the push you need to face your fears and see the world all by yourself.
Back Country Cuisine
CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried chicken and pasta dish, served in a creamy italian style sauce. MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN: Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce, served with noodles. Vegan. Available in one serve 90g or two serve 175g sizes. RRP $8.99 and $13.49
CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our take on chocolate self-saucing pudding, with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and chocolate sauce. Gluten Free. RRP 150g $12.49 BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
Back Country Cuisine
ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made with chocolate and coffee combined with soft serve to give you a tasty drink on the run. Gluten Free. 85g. RRP $3.99 BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
RAB Mythic 200
FUELING EPIC ADVENTURES FOR 21 YEARS
The pinnacle of innovation, the Mythic 200 Sleeping bag is an ultra lightweight down sleeping bag with the best warmth to weight ratio in the Rab range. Designed for mountain activists looking to reduce weight while moving through the mountains, for use in warmer conditions where weight and packsize are crucial to success, such as long multi day routes or summer trekking. RRP $899.95 OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Wherever your next adventure is about to lead you, we’ve got the goods to keep you going. Est. 1998 Back Country Cuisine specialises in a range of freeze-dried products, from tasty meals to snacks and everything in between, to keep your energy levels up and your adventures wild.
backcountrycuisine.co.nz
BASE CAMP DUFFEL
The Iconic Base Camp Duffel. Originally launched in 1986, today's Base Camp Duffel is made of burly fabrics and built to be transported via porters, yaks and camels. Thousands of these gear totes circumnavigate the globe, surviving the world’s roughest airport baggage handlers and harshest mountains. RRP $260.00 THENORTHFACE.CO.NZ
Footwear
Salewa M WANDER HIKER GTX
The Wander Hiker GTX is a low-cut alpine hiking shoe with a durable nubuck leather upper, GORE-TEX® waterproof and breathable protection, and a MICHELIN® outsole paired with the new SALEWA GumFlate midsole, your go-to, versatile travel companion to take you wherever your adventure leads you, not to mention they look good with jeans! RRP $359.00 @salewanewzealand BOBO.CO.NZ/BRANDS/SALEWA
Merrell Vapor Glove 4 – Men’s and Women’s
Merrell Barefoot 2 construction for enhanced proprioception and stability during variable movement. Featuring a Vibram® sole, this minimal trainer provides little between you and the ground for maximum freedom and connection underfoot. Weight 244g RRP $189.00 MERRELL.CO.NZ
Merrell Agility Peak Flex 3 – Men’s and Women’s Built for running on rugged trails, Agility Peak Flex 3 features shock-absorbing foam cushioning, Vibram® MegaGrip® sole and FLEXconnect™ midsole technology for agility over technical terrain. Weight 621g RRP $269.00 MERRELL.CO.NZ
Merrell Trail Glove 5 – Men’s and Women’s
Created by studying the foot in motion, this trainer is designed to enhance the foot’s natural ability to stabilize the body during rapid changes in movement. Weight 392g RRP $219.00 MERRELL.CO.NZ
Hoka One One Speedgoat 4
Featuring a new breathable yet rugged mesh and a wider toe box. Grippy on the uphill and secure on the downhill, the Speedgoat 4 is badass on every trail. Also available in WIDE. RRP $299.95 HOKAONEONE.CO.NZ
Hoka One One Torrent
High-traction rubber and aggressive lugs mean that when your feet are on the ground they’re sure of their footing. Marry that with a breathable upper and you’ve got a super lightweight, nimble, and technical trail racer that allows you to tackle a variety of terrain at any speed. Pedal to the metal. RRP $249.95 HOKAONEONE.CO.NZ
Travel bags Whether it's a back pack you are after or a cabin bag, we've got the best from our market leaders...
"There is a whole world out there. Pack your backpack, your best friend, and go!"
Lowe Alpine AT Voyager 55 + 15
If you’re heading on a worldwide trip or travelling to remote locations, the AT Voyager 55+15 is a spacious backpacking pack with a detachable day pack that’s perfect for unplanned adventures. With clever and practical features, the AT Voyager is designed to carry your gear where wheeled luggage won’t go. The AT Voyager 55+15 is a spacious 55 litre backpack with a removable 15 litre day pack which can either be attached to the main pack or the chest harness for a front carry to keep your valuables close. With front access to the main compartment and internal zipped mesh organisation pockets, the AT Voyager can be packed like a suitcase for easy access to your gear. Constructed from tough, weather-resistant nylon fabrics and featuring tamperproof and locking zips, the AT Voyager 55+15 is designed to keep your kit safe and secure on the move. RRP $475.95 OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
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osprey Farpoint and Fairview Travel Packs
Range includes 40L, 55L, 70L and 80L with options of two different sizes of men’s and women’s specific harnesses. 55L and 70L option features a detachable daypack. Amazing construction and features.
pacsafe Metrosafe LS100 Anti-theft recycled crossbody bag
Protect your valuables with this 3L bag (other sizes and designs available) featuring slashproof panels and strap, security hooks and lock down points for zips. RFID-blocking pockets. Will fit a 7-inch tablet in its padded sleeve.
RRP $219.99 - $299.99 BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
RRP $139.95 BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Osprey Archeon 65 Pack
Minimalist design constructed with recycled materials. Easy access front panel and separate sleeping bag compartment. Includes removable rain cover. Comes in two different harness sizes with men’s and women’s specific options. RRP $549.99 BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Featured product Lowe Alpine Halcyon 35:40 Born from Lowe Alpine’s vertical heritage, the Halcyon 35:40 is a mid-volume, traditional mountaineering pack designed for the extraordinary. With features including a rope compression system, pick retainer panel and reinforced ski slots, you can carry your kit securely over rock, snow or ice. An extendable lid increases the volume by 5 litres, while a stiffened weather flap/compression system aids stability. A lid pocket and zipped side entry keeps kit organised and accessible. The Halcyon features the Tri-Flex ™ carry system, designed with three key load support elements, allowing you to configure the carry to suit your adventure. Load support comes from a spring steel frame and an independent HDPE frame sheet. Both are removable, giving the carry options of frame and board for heavy loads, just the board for support yet flexibility, and removal of both for a lighter, flexible pack. Tri-Flex™ has a moulded snowshedding back panel, a padded harness and a dual density foam hip belt with gear loops. The hip belt padding can be stripped back to the waist belt webbing or removed completely depending on preference. RRP $395.95 OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
Featured product Macpac Weta 24L Pack Designed for all-weather travel — whether it’s commuting to work or heading overseas — the Weta is a versatile day pack featuring a waterproof heat-welded body and a snug roll-top closure. Ideal for the 'sweaty cyclist' or sudden rain showers, this 24 litre pack is comfortable on your back and keeps your gear dry. • Heat-welded nylon outer is waterproof (non-submersible) • Roll top closure is secured by side clips (or by clipping together) • 3D mesh back panel for maximum ventilation • Removable hip belt and adjustable sternum strap • Two zipped pockets — one on the front (not waterproof) and one inside • Laser-cut drainage hole in bottom of front stretch pocket • Side loops for extra carabiner attachment • Bike light attachment • Repair patch included in front stretch pocket — use with Gear Aid Seam Grip Sealer & Adhesive RRP $249.99 MACPAC.CO.NZ
Osprey Transporter Global Carry-On
The Transporter Global Carry-On is a streamlined solution for efficiency on the road. Padded handles and a nonslip shoulder pad let you choose how to transport your belongings. A main zipper opens flat for easy packing and internal zippered dividers create separate areas for your clothes, documents and electronics. A large external compartment stores toiletries and a front panel pocket is the perfect spot for reading material and notebooks. Made from weatherproof fabric to protect against the elements. RRP $229.99 SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY
osprey farpoint 65 wheeled travel pack
Quickly converts from wheeled luggage to backpack. Front panel that opens completely for easy packing and unpacking, internal and external compression straps, multitude of pockets. RRP $349.99 BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Macpac ITOL 35L Travel Duffel
Fitting ‘in the overhead locker’, this duffel has zipped compartments, internal packing cells, laptop pocket, detachable shoe bag and a removable shoulder strap. It has a 35 litre capacity and weighs 910 g. RRP $199.99 MACPAC.CO.NZ
Osprey Transporter Wheeled Carry-On
The Transporter Wheeled Carry-On is ideal for frequent travellers who want to minimize hassle and maximize efficiency. Offering travel-specific features, like a concealed RFID security pocket for your wallet or passport, mesh compartment dividers for optimal organization and a dedicated external pocket for your liquids. An open-flat design makes packing easy, internal compression keeps your clothes in place and a separate padded laptop sleeve provides protection. Built from tough weatherproof materials to withstand the challenges of habitual travel. RRP $399.99 SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ/OSPREY
Featured product Lowe Alpine Kulu Travel the world with the Kulu 65:75, a larger volume backpacking pack with patented FlipBelt™ technology designed to ease the stress of transit. All the kudos of a backpack combined with a set of travel specific features, the Kulu is our ultimate backpacking pack designed for travel to remote locations where wheeled luggage won’t go. Available in two sizes with adjustable back length and AirMesh carry system, the Kulu 65:75 offers a supportive and comfortable carry. With plenty of space and pockets for your gear, the Kulu 65:75 features a large zippered front panel for easy access on the go, plus a lower entry with a zipped divider to keep your kit separate. Essentials stay close to hand with hip belt pockets, while a secure internal lid zipped pocket keeps valuables safely stashed. Our patented Travel FlipBelt™ is a simple, no-nonsense design feature that allows you to stash the hip belt on the side of the pack when travelling. To enable, start by pivoting each arm of the hip belt so it aligns with each side of the pack then connect the arms to the side of the pack using the hidden travel mode buckles. The integrated rain cover doubles up as a travel cover to ensure the harness and other straps are secure during transit. RRP $439.95 OUTFITTERS.CO.NZ
Travel intro
ESCAPE! Destinations have so much to offer the 'adventurer', whether that is Everest or the South Pacific, adventure travel, or travel with adventure, has become hugely popular. But I am sure that like us, you are well and truly over reading about the ‘azure blue water, the white sand beaches and the swaying palm trees’. This issue we are saying, ‘be responsible for your own generic information’, if you want to know about Tahiti and her islands then use ‘the google’! I just typed in Tahiti, and I got 152,000,000 results (0.69 seconds). That’s all the general information you are going to need. So, what’s in this Escape issue? It’s the stuff you won’t find on Google; the secret and the small, it’s all that is special. What we like to call ‘insider’ information; that restaurant, that lookout, that activity, that only the locals know about. We wrote to a variety of people we know and asked them for their best picks, their specialised insider knowledge of their destination.
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Image courtesy Malamala Beach Club
FIJI
See the Garden of the Sleeping Giant Founded by actor Raymond Burr (aka Perry Mason), the Garden of the Sleeping Giant boasts a wonderful collection of orchids and other flowering plants as well as several trails meandering through the landscaped grounds and into the lowland rainforest abutting the Sleeping Giant escarpment. The entrance fee includes a tropical juice which you can enjoy on their lovely terrace.
ESCAPE!
Spend a day at Malamala If you think ‘Fiji’ you think white sand beaches, it’s not always that easy - Denarau beaches are dodgy at best, but just 25 mins away by boat is Malamala Beach Club. Surrounded by crystal clear waters, Malamala is located on its very own island, just 25 minutes from Port Denarau. Pretty much the biggest coolest restaurant in Fiji. You buy a day pass and you can lay on the white sand beaches all day, or purchase a beachside cabana with butler service on the quiet side of the island. The resort style infinity pool is awesome. Also good to know. Buy a day pass from South Sea Cruises and you can go back over the next 7 days for just FJD$75 pp.
I always feel a bit sorry for Fiji because it seems to have been around for so long. It is so diverse, so expansive, yet it gets pigeonholed. It has led the way in South Pacific tourism but with over 333 island there is really something for everyone. From super budget to super top end, from family kids’ clubs to billionaires only. Its longevity is both a negative and positive. Negative because everyone you speak to has been there and everyone has an opinion. The positive is that because it has been catering for tourism for so long there really is something for everyone. Amazing diving and fishing, rafting, biking, hiking. The surf throughout the region is legendary. The Fijian people are friendly and welcoming regardless of where you go. Even though it is the quintessential ‘Pacific paradise’ it’s got a lot more to offer than the holiday brochures would have you believe.
Explore Nausori Highlands Towering over the coastal flats of Nadi are the high peaks of Koromba to the south and Koronayitu in the north, both over 1000m and forming part of the spectacular Nausori Highlands. With your own transport, a stunning drive starts from halfway along the Nadi Back Road at the turn-off known as Mulomulo Road. Head inland along this road for 14km, and after a steep hairpin bend, keep an eye out for a walking track on the left-hand side (you can park 50m beyond at a roadside clearing on the right); the track leads up past a triangular survey marker to a steep cliff with superb views over the Sabeto River Valley and out over Nadi to the offshore islands.
Drive Kings Road Carving a scenic route between Suva and Lautoka, the Kings Road is every bit as spectacular as the faster and more popular Queens Road route. It takes you through a lush interior with gorgeous views over the Wainibuka River with the occasional village meandering its way along the road and river - plus some wonderful rugged country around Rakikraki, where the nearby island of Nananu-i-Ra offers the perfect place to get away from it all.
Cloud 9 Clever idea, so you don’t have an island but you want to have a resort – so you simply build one. Once again this is a great day trip, just a good reason to get out of the city and enjoy what Fiji has to offer at its best. Warm clear water, sun and a place to enjoy it. There are a range of ways to get there, just google it. Be advised it is not Cloudbreak, the surf spot, you can not see Cloudbreak from the Cloud 9 even though the title would lead you to believe you could.
Explore Navua River There are several tours to the Navua River area. Tours include waterfall visits, 4WD trips, trekking, kayaking and white-water rafting. There seems to be a dizzying number of activities on offer with costs between $225 and $500. Prices vary according to transfers: they'll pick you up anywhere between Nadi and Suva. All day tours last about six hours.
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Notchup © Drones.nc / NCTPS
#NewCalPulse
NEWCALEDONIA.TRAVEL
New Caledonia is a little ‘under sung’ in tourism. Because it has such good mineral resources it is not reliant on tourism to survive like many of the other South Pacific countries. But it has a lot to offer. The mix of both French and local Kanak culture, intermingled with aspects of Vietnamese and Indonesian influence, has created a unique travel experience in New Caledonia. There is a lot of history here, a unique culture and it is stunningly beautiful.
NEW CALEDONIA
Visit Musée de la Nouvelle Calédonie Tourists shouldn’t leave New Caledonia without an appreciation and understanding of Kanak culture. Kanaks – the indigenous population of New Caledonia – lived a basic subsistence lifestyle prior to the arrival of the French. The museum is home to examples of their huts, artwork, clothing and farming practises. The museum also has a smaller section on other Pacific cultures drawing fascinating cultural parallels with Fiji, Vanuatu and Papua New Guinea. Musée de la Nouvelle Calédonie offers a snapshot of Kanak culture often overlooked by other tourist centres.
ESCAPE!
Snorkel at Kanumera Bay Bordered by coconut palms and colonial pine trees, the beach at Kanumera Bay was made for snorkelling! The water is crystal clear and just tens of metres from the shore there are ‘coral heads’ and a little fringing reef where you can see thousands of fish! There is also an amazing coral formation which seems to cut the bay in two. It is linked to the land by a thread of silvery sand, it has strong culture significance as such it is totally forbidden to go on the island – still impressive to look at.
Go Mountain Biking Maybe it’s the French connection but biking has become a big deal in New Caledonia. There are numerous trails close to the city and clearly mark adventure trails going into the back country; for example, you can ride the Grande Boucle of the Tango plateau in Koné: its nearly 40 km at about 510m in altitude and climbing more than 1,600m. There are numerous places to hire your bike from, but it would pay to book in advance. The New Caledonia tourism website has a lot more information about where to go and how difficult each track is so check them out.
Walk up Mont Dore Rising to a cumulative height of 780 meters, the peak of Mont Dore offers stunning, panoramic views across towards Nouméa and beyond to the south of the Grand Terre. Beat the heat by beginning early in the morning and entering the walk from the suburb of Mont Dore to make sure you get clear views during the entire ascent. Be sure to pack lunch and plenty of water for the four-hour climb as there are no resources along the walk itself.
Explore Fort Tereka A secluded spot often completely omitted from the usual tourist trail in Nouméa. A trip to the fort offers the opportunity to explore an abandoned 19th century military fort, complete with canons and tunnels, as well as stunning panoramic views. Built by the French in 1878 the fort was designed to fire upon an approaching invasion attempt during the Franco-Prussian war. Take time to soak up the view and explore the tunnels and gunpowder holdings. Visitors can access the fort by road or walk up through Nouméa’s only dry forest from Keundu Beach.
Visit Aquarium des Lagons Nouvelle Caledonie Discover the native marine life of New Caledonia at Aquarium des Lagons Nouvelle Caledonie. In the large aquariums you can see turtles, sea snakes, and giant clams. Mysterious and fascinating creatures like the nautilus mollusc and the self-lighting flashlight fish also reside here. Multi-language explanations are available.
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VANUATU
Vanuatu stretches across 1,300km of the South Pacific Ocean. There are over 80 islands, so you know there has to be a lot to do here. There are 3 main tourist destinations within the Vanuatu island chain—the islands of Efate, Espiritu Santo (commonly just “Santo”) and Tanna. While there’s less of a tourism-focus on the other islands, Pentecost, Ambrym and Malekula they still have a lot to offer. What stands out to anyone who ventures out of the main township is how raw and natural Vanuatu is; it has an astonishing culture and though cliche, is does feel like you are stepping back in time.
ESCAPE!
Drink Kava - with care You can buy Kava on the side of the road here in Vanuatu. But be warned, this is not the tourist drink you get served in Fiji. This kava can have a real kick to it. I strongly suggest if you wish to try it find someone local to share the experience with. Be prepared for your lips and tongue to get pretty numb!
Dive at Million Dollar Point The U.S. military dumped a million dollars’ worth of goods off a beach in Santo, purely to spite the British and French. When the United States military abandoned the Vanuatu Island of Espiritu Santo after occupying it as a base during World War II, it left behind infrastructure works such as roads, buildings and runways. But its oddest legacy might be the millions of dollars of goods it dumped into the ocean, just so the French and British couldn’t have them.
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Swim a Waterfall It’s pretty well known but Mele Cascades, just outside of the Efate, is a common tourism attraction. Why we mentioned it here is because you can have a lot more fun if instead of walking up and down the track alongside the waterfall,on your descent, just swim down. There are no rapids to navigate, just cascading falls, and let's be honest, it’s a lot more fun.
Visit the Amelbati Cannibal Site Nestled in the jungles of Vanuatu are the remains of what was once a cannibal oven. This site of former cannibal ceremonies is a 30-minute uphill trek from Walarano village on Malekula Island. Called a “nasara,” this sacred ground is also where the Amelbati tribe buried their chiefs. Just a heads up - the last reported cannibalism on Malekula Island took place in 1969.
Witness the Pentecost Island Land Dive The world’s most primitive form of bungee jumping. Each spring, just after the first yams begin to emerge from the soil, the men of the South Pacific island of Pentecost erect enormous wooden towers, some as tall as seventy-five feet, in each of the island’s villages The ceremony is known as N’gol, or land diving. The men climb to the top of these towers, attach two long elastic vines to their ankles, announce to the world their most intimate (and occasionally last) thoughts and then leap. The vines are supposed to catch the jumper just at the point where his hair is able to brush the ground, ritually fertilizing it for a bountiful yam harvest.
Post a letter at the Underwater Post Office The fully functional, submerged Vanuatu Post Office is definitely one of a kind. One of the world’s only underwater post offices can be found off of Mele, Vanuatu, which hosts the Hideaway Island resort, a vacation spot specializing in scuba and snorkeling. It’s a fully functional post office, which means it also comes with the irritations of a regular post office. It’s only open during certain hours, which are signaled by a flag raised above a float over the post office. You may arrive to find it closed; in which case you must take your mail back with you—no dropping it off.
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Unique Adventures Your Vanuatu experience starts with us. In just over three hours, you can be carried away onboard our friendly airline to unforgettable and unique adventures in Vanuatu. From caving to hiking a live volcano on Tanna, land diving on Pentecost Island, or diving and fishing Vanuatu’s crystal clear waters - Vanuatu offers unique adventures to suit all budgets. Don’t wait - book today.
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COCONUTS BEACH CLUB RESORT & SPA WWW.C B C SA M OA .CO M
Get busy relaxing in Niue
BOOK DIRECT & SAVE Take time out and get busy relaxing in the South Pacific escape of Niue. Snorkel in crystal clear waters, go game fishing a stone’s throw from the shore and have cocktails while cooling off in the pool. Now that’s what I call a hard day’s work. Book direct with us and save on your next dream holiday.
0800 69 69 63 | www.scenichotelgroup.co.nz/niue
SAMOA
Samoa plays a big role in New Zealand culture with so many Samoans living here, yet as a destination it has only really come into its own in the past five years. Consisting of ten islands, Samoa is the epitome of South Pacific. Its islands are the home to lush rainforests, waterfalls, lagoons and breath-taking reefs and beaches. There are two main islands, Savai'i and Upolu and two small islands, Apolima and Manono, plus six other uninhabited islands. Located on the westerly end of the Samoa Archipelago, it is halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand. Two things we noticed when visiting was how well developed the city areas were and the second was the size of the people. Samoans are a big race of people with strong culture, they are genuinely friendly and if they find out you are from New Zealand they will want to talk about rugby and tell you where their cousins live.
ESCAPE!
Slide down Papase’ea Sliding Rocks Close to Apia, kids (and adults) will love the Papase’ea Sliding Rocks. Gentle waterfalls have formed natural slides in the rocks, one up to five meters in length. It’s easy to find and a must do during the wet season. It’s possible in the dry season although not always guaranteed to be flowing.
Falealupo Canopy Walkway The Canopy Walkway is part of the Falealupo Rainforest Preserve and is an unusual activity to find in Samoa. You climb a hanging bridge crossing a 30-meter gap between two big tropical trees, passing over the canopy across a hanging bridge. You pay at the Falealupo sites the entrance fee to the walkway where the Information Centre is also located and can also present the receipt for admission to the other sites which include Moso’s Footprint and the House of Rock.
Explore Peapea Cave Explore the old lava tube of Peapea Cave, it is easily accessible (April to November) in O Le Pupu-Pue National Park but still worth taking a guide as tourists often get lost. Named after the birds that sing from its depths, Peapea is set an hour into the rainforest. You’ll need good shoes and a headlamp to amble into the cave, as it is pitch black for about an hour until it opens up.
Go Surfing Not so well known is how good the surf is in Samoa. Between May and October you’ll want to be rising early to make the most of the conditions before the winds pick up and the waves become too powerful. November through to April, the breaks are more comfortable. There is no surf shop in Samoa, so bring all your surf gear.
Explore the Paia Dwarfs Cave According to legend Paia Dwarfs Cave, near Manase, is home to dwarves. Explore the cave and find footprint evidence of these mystical little people. The cave is a kilometre long, so bring good shoes, water and a torch. An oddly shaped crack in the lava is said to be the footprint of Moso, a famous giant. It is said it was made when Moso stepped over from Fiji. As with a lot of tourism sites in Samoa there is a small fee.
Swim in To Sua Ocean Trench This attraction has been thrashed visually by Samoa tourism, but it is a pretty special spot so deserves a mention. To sua literally means a Giant Swimming Hole, it's 30 meters deep and is accessible via a long ladder to the pool. Overlooking the ocean is a beach called Fagaoneone, meaning white sand, whereas opposite is a lava field with a blow hole, tide pools and walking paths along the rocks near the ocean’s edge.
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NIUE
ESCAPE!
Drink cocktails at All Relativf All Relativf is the coolest little bar at the back of the shopping centre “complex” on Niue. All cocktails are NZD $16 with happy hour being $13, and you definitely get value for money – no light handed pours here! Open 2pm till late Monday – Saturday. Local produce is used where possible, including the limes and Niuean honey. Not just cocktails here, smoothies (for those who don’t or can’t drink alcohol) as well as a good wine and beer list. Drinks are served on old school CDs, good music playing and John is always up for a chat. Well worth a visit.
Enjoy a meal at Wok on the Rock This restaurant, located in Alofi, has only been open a few months and serves tasty Asian inspired dishes. Renowned chef Ray McVinnie helped with the menu design.
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Niue was formed by volcanic upheavals; the island sits atop 100-foot (30-meter) cliffs rising straight out of deep ocean, that is why it is sometimes called “the Rock.” There is no crime, no traffic lights and probably more chickens than people. A clean, sparsely populated piece of paradise. Niue boasts amazing diving in its gin clear water, superb fishing and it is a country full of surprises. Pick up any brochure and you’ll find a range of activities but here are our ‘insider’ top picks.
Fish for Yellow Fin Tuna Fishing in Niue is legendary, as Niue's deep waters are accessible almost immediately from launching. For many anglers, the key target species of Yellow Fin Tuna, Mahimahi and Wahoo to name but a few. But what people don’t know is if you catch with Fish Niue, you can go to BJ’s (the captain) restaurant Falala Fa – not hard to find, nothing in Niue is hard to find and they will cook that catch as an entrée for free – and it is superb!
Hike to Vaikona Chasm Not on the map and not for the faint hearted. You can only discover this Chasm with a local guide. Reached by a short hike through the forest and coral pinnacles, then descent into a sloping cave to reach the chasm floor and nearby small freshwater pool.
Swim with the Dolphins Buccaneer dive offer a dolphin trip with a difference – they literally drive around in their boat until they see the Spinner Dolphins you then leap over the side with your mask and fins on and see the wee fellas dancing under water. Super fun experience. We also followed this up with a snorkel where we saw turtle and seasnakes, all in all a great experience.
Explore the rock pools Well they are more like chasms really. There are very few beaches on Niue but the water is crystal clear and the island has several chasms or rockpools. The trick to get the best out of these is to work out is best time to visit each rockpool. The Matavai Hotel had a booklet of tide times to help. Reef shoes are not a suggest they are a must!
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NORFOLK ISLAND
Watawieh yorli means “Hello, how are you all?” and is Norfolk’s standard greeting that’s delivered genuinely and often. There’s also frequent chat about wetls (food). Both of these terms are expressed in Norfolk (also known as Norf'k), the local dialect that is a fusion of 18th-century English and Tahitian, and the legacy of two groups of people merging to become Norfolk Islanders, descendents of the Bounty Muntineers. Norfolk Island is as full of surprises as it is of history. On a recent visit I was surprised by the beauty and the infusion of Polynesian culture. Norfolk is one the South Pacific’s best kept secrets and I am not sure why, it’s not hard to get to with regular flights direct form Auckland. If it is not on your bucket list, make some room.
Go on a Ghost tour It's kinda cool picking up a 'ghost' in the middle of the night and have them conduct a tour of the historic aspects of the island and see where ghosts like to hang out. Listen to tales and stories that will delight you, make you sad, maybe weep and through it all, send shivers down your spine!
ESCAPE!
Eat at Homestead Restaurant A must do on Norfolk Island is the Homestead Restaurant which opened in October 2019. The chef hunts and gathers seasonal local produce, meat and seafood to prepare on their wood fuelled Argentinian Perilla grill. Make sure you order the chef’s wood-fired naturally fermented sourdough.
Go for a walk in Hundred Acres Reserve Not the woods from Winnie-the-Pooh books, but definitely worth a visit! There's a great loop walk which starts from a road lined with Moreton Bay Fig trees. Sit and enjoy the spectacular rugged coastline view at Rocky Point and spot the many varieties of seabirds along the way.
Visit Hilli Goat This family run business offers the chance to meet and even milk the goats, it's informative and the food was outrageously good. The produce was fresh and plentiful, the cheeses are delicious and the setting comfortable and relaxing. Emily and Zach run the place. Emily is in charge of the cheeses etc and Zach is also a photographer and there is a small gallery on site.
Explore the Graves No trip to Norfolk would be complete without a trip to the cemetery, it is interesting and sobering at the same time. I would strongly suggest that you read up a little on the Islands’ history before visiting and it will give you some perspective on the names and dates carved into the head stones.
Go Catching They don’t call it fishing in Norfolk they call it ‘catching’ - there is an abundance of fish here. There are not many charter boats, we used Advance2, and it was a great morning, the weather plays a major part and it can get rough so you need to pick your day. But one thing for sure you will ‘catch’.
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TAHITI
ESCAPE!
Get a tattoo Tattoo – is originally derived from the Tahitian word Tatau, it was an art form to express identity and personality. Nearly everyone you meet in Tahiti has a tattoo; some have deep meaning some just for show. If you are thinking of getting a tattoo, Tahiti is the place to get it. Allow the tattooist to help design your tattoo, don’t go in with a dolphin and ask to have it on your ankle. There are several well-known tattooists in Pape’ete. I suggest you book in advance or as soon as you arrive - don’t wait till the last day to book because you won’t get in. However, have your tattoo late in your vacation you can’t get it wet and will need to keep it out of the sun.
Eat at the Roulottes At night, just on dark ,there emerges a range of foods trucks called roulotte. These are not just street vendors, these are legitimate places to eat and you will note that some are very full of locals. The trick to choosing the right one, like all restaurants, go where the locals go. The average meal price is around NZ$20.00.
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What makes a destination is the people and the Tahitian people have been welcoming visitors to their islands since Captain Blyth. Tahitians are proud of their cultural heritage. They love to celebrate their customs through artwork, song, and dance. They are warm spirited. As a people they possess an innocent and carefree spirit. Their philosophy, aita pea pea, which means, "not to worry," is truly the Tahitian way of life. Tahiti is a water culture; everyone surfs, paddleboards, sails or Va’a (outrigger kayak). The lagoons are safe and protected from wind and waves, but if you are looking for surf on the other side of the reef you'll find some of the best waves in the world.
Eat at the Blue Banana I am not a great ‘foodie’ but there is one restaurant in Tahiti called The Blue Banana, it is on the edge of the lagoon just up the road from the Manava hotel. The staff are great, the view is awesome but the food is amazing, don’t look at the menu, take my advice just order the "Raw Fish Three Ways". It is superb, if you don’t like raw fish you are in the wrong country.
Get out on the water Wherever you go in Tahiti there is water everywhere and most hotels have sports equipment for hire from paddleboards to jet skis. This type of equipment is expensive in Tahiti so make sure that you are well insured just in case. Stay well within the lagoon - don’t be tempted to head to the pass without a guide - the current is strong and you’ll be outside the lagoon before you know it.
Visit Teahupoo Even if you do not surf go to Teahupoo. It is about an hour’s drive from the main city of Pape'ete (the road is crazy so take care). It’s called the end of the road for a reason, it’s the end of the road, but just before you get to the township of Teahupoo there is a small marina on the right hand side. If you pull in, there will be a marine taxi that will take you out to the surf break. As long as it is not crazy windy there will be people surfing and if you are lucky enough to see it on a big day just watching people surf Teahupoo is an experience you will not forget.
Swim and feed the Stingray I know if sounds a bit ho hum, but in Tahiti it is taken to a new level. The closest places to do it in the main island is Moorea which is about 30 mins by boat. They have special ray feeding tours which you can join or simply hire a paddleboard and paddle out yourself. You get in the water with the stingray and they approach for food. It is a rare and uncomfortable feeling to be groped by a stingray but it’s an experience special to Tahiti.
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@2020 Gregoire Le Bacon
airtahitinui.com
Dive and help preserve the unexplored
Dive Munda is a multi-award winning SSI Instructor Training and Extended Range Centre in the Western province of Solomon Islands committed to sustainable dive eco-tourism. Discover WWII history and Kastom culture and scuba dive unexplored reefs, hard and soft coral, cuts, caverns and caves along with pelagic life and shark action, all in one of the last wild frontiers left on planet ocean. • Direct weekly flights from Brisbane to Munda with Solomon Airlines
Landline: +677 621 56 Cellphone: +677 789 6869 divemunda@dive-solomon-com www.divemunda.com Find us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter Agnes Gateway Hotel, Lambeti Station, Munda, New Georgia. Western Province, Solomon Islands
SOLOMON ISLANDS
What do you know about the Solomon’s, nothing right? That is what makes it special. The Solomon Islands are a step back in time, it’s like going on holiday inside the Discovery Channel. These islands are laid-back, welcoming and often surprisingly untouched. From WWII relics scattered in the jungle to leaf-hut villages where traditional culture is not just replicated it’s alive and flourishing. Then there’s the volcanic islands, the mangroves, the huge lagoons, tropical islets and emerald forests. Less than 5 hours from Auckland this patch of untouched tropical wilderness is becoming popular because of its uniqueness from diving and fishing to history and culture.
Visit Skull Island This is a small island that houses the skulls of many chiefs from the area, hidden in the 1920s to keep them safe from missionaries who must have been destroying traditional sites. Thought to have dated back to the 1700s, you see them tucked into the rocky coral, as well as graves of more recent deaths. It’s a strong link back to a not so distant past.
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Dive at Kashi Maru Lying in a shallow protected bay, Mbaeroko Bay about 50 mins by boat from Munda. Once a Japanese auxiliary minelayer/merchant ship, it was sunk during World War II. She sits in less than 20m of water which makes it an easy wreck dive. The freighter was unloading a cargo of fuel and vehicles when sunk in 1943 by US Bombers. The ship today is covered in the most beautiful coloured soft and hard corals and is home to a myriad of colourful tropical fish.
Hike to Tenaru Falls The waterfalls are absolutely beautiful. An easy 1-2hr hike along a flat riverbed. A significant proportion of the hike is spent crossing rivers so shoes that can get wet are preferable to sturdy hiking boots. You can swim around in the pool at the bottom, climb up next to the falls and relax in the cool waters before hiking back. You can book the tour through the tourist information in Honiara. You will need a guide!
Snorkel at Kennedy Island This is small piece of paradise, only a 15 minute boat ride from Gizo Island. Originally called Plum Pudding Island but now known as Kennedy Island. This is where JFK and his crew landed after their PT boat was run over by the Japanese before being rescued by a group of local men. It is now a place where you can go snorkelling and spend the day.
Explore Bonegi About 12km west from Honiara, Bonegi is music to the ears of divers, snorkellers and sunbathers. Two large Japanese freighters sank just offshore on the night of 13 November 1942, and make for a magnificent playground for scuba divers, who call them Bonegi I and Bonegi II. As the upper works of Bonegi II break the surface, it can also be snorkelled. There’s also a black-sand beach that is suitable for a picnic.
Swim at Gwaunau'ru If you want to get a taste of rural life and enjoy superb scenery without travelling too far from Auki, make a beeline for Gwaunaru'u. This sweet little village near the airfield, about 10km north of Auki, abuts a huge bay fringed by a 2km-long expanse of volcanic sand. It's at the mouth of a river that offers great swimming opportunities. Be warned: there are plenty of sand flies. Get here by taxi or contact local tour company
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CRUISING THE SOLOMONS Word by Kylie Travers Images by SIDC Gerald Rambert
Seeking adventure and relaxation in a tropical paradise, I knew this trip would be one to remember. As the sun sunk beneath the waves on the first night, the rest of the world, along with all my worries and cares melted away. For the next 7 days, I was free to explore the crystal clear waters, dive or snorkel colourful reefs, meet gorgeous people and be welcomed at each island we stopped at. Laying on a hammock on the top deck, watching the islands smoothly pass by as we cruised to our first stop, I can’t help but relax. The friendly staff on Solomon Island Discovery Cruises were taking care of my every need from the moment I arrived. With an outstanding menu carefully prepared by chefs who are passionate about their craft, combining local produce and recipes with international cuisine, every meal was an experience. As we cruised along from island to island, dolphins swam over, playfully jumping in and out of the water around our boat. Followed by a whale, gliding past. We could not believe our luck to see one so close and immediately the captain stopped cruising so we could watch it without disturbing it as it swam out further. With such amazing marine life being so close, I couldn’t wait to get in the water and explore more under the ocean for myself. Diving had never been easier. All my gear was ready to go, the staff, who were fast becoming friends, helped with everything then we were off. Sinking down into the ocean, colourful reefs, schools of fish, stingrays, manta rays and more came out to say hello and my guide pointed each one out beautifully so I didn’t miss a thing. After a perfect dive, we were whisked away for a BBQ on a private island. Whilst waiting for it to cook, we swam, snorkelled and used stand up paddleboards to explore the ocean around it. Asking my snorkel guide, Pedrose, where his favourite spot was, he took me around the corner where
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the rocks and reefs parted a little. As we floated along, he suddenly pointed and there, in the crack of a rock was an octopus feeding, it moved so gracefully and was amazing to watch. Later, being heavily interested in WWII, I was keen to dive wrecks and climb to the top of Hill 281 in Tulagi to see what our soldiers saw, view relics and walk through foxholes and Japanese U caves used in the war. With so much WWII history throughout the Solomon Islands, you never know what you will discover as you are taken around each island. After our walk up Hill 281, the cool drinks at Raiders Hotel and Bar were a delight. At Roderick Bay, the wreck of the MS World Explorer is slowly being taken back over by nature. Despite the wreck not being a natural part of the island, the villagers have created a world of wonder with ziplines between it and the trees for kids to play on. Ropes hang off the trees, with kids swinging out over the
impossibly clear water as we approach. Being warmly greeted with cool coconut drinks, we were treated to singing, dancing and music then a walk through the lush greenery to the other side of the island. Coming from a cool climate, I was sweltering but loving every step of the way. As we started the return journey, Captain Ezi called to me. While I was touring the village, he had weaved a fan from a palm leaf for me to use to cool myself walking back through the forest. With diving, stand up paddle boarding, snorkelling, WWII history, village visits, water skiing and surfing, it was an outstanding trip, ending with a bonfire on a private island. Sipping champagne with my friends in the gentle waves as the sunset and the bonfire started was the perfect way to end the trip. In the morning, as we boarded the tender to go back home and waved farewell to our new friends, I knew I would return again and again.
Kylie Travers is an avid traveller, diver and mother of two. You can find her at www.kylietravers.com.au
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Shaped by cooling lava flows, the chasms drawn in the ocean floor on the outer edge of the coral reef resemble the veins of the “fenua� (Earth) stretching out into the ocean. PC: Mat Fouliard
TAHITI, THE BLACK PEARL OF WATER SPORTS By Annabel Anderson
There are many great places to play in or on the water around the world, but few come close to offering up the salt water playground that is French Polynesia, composed of 118 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over an expanse of more than 2,000 kilometres and comprised of five island groups, "Tahiti" is so much more than a tropical oasis of over water bungalows and mind bending sunsets . What the brochures fail to let on, is that it is quite possibly the best warm water destination in the world for those that like to indulge in all and every kind of water sport. From the national sport of Va’a (rudderless outrigger canoes) to all and every iteration of water sport imaginable, Tahitians literally have saltwater pulsating through their veins with an aptitude to learn and master anything above and below the surface. With many of the islands within the five main island groups being atolls with lagoons protected by coral reefs it’s this contrasting mix of protected waters and open ocean that lends these islands to the sheer diversity of water born activities. Shaped by Mother Nature and moulded by culture, the indigenous Polynesian people of these islands have a gift of being in tune with their environment that is seldom seen elsewhere. At one with the patterns of weather that once dictated their celestial navigation by sailing canoe throughout the South Pacific, their ability to switch from one sport to another with a display of skill, poise and grace is both awe-inspiring and inspirational. Once you’ve experienced it first-hand it will leave you wanting to expand your repertoire of skills ‘just in case’ they may be needed for your next visit, because once this place gets a grip on you, it’s keeps drawing you back time and time again. Previously somewhat ‘unobtainable’ due to language and other ‘perception’ challenges, unless you’ve had an inside connection, it’s been somewhat difficult to make the most of what lies so close to our doorstep.
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With daily flights between New Zealand and the main island of Tahiti Nui coupled with an expanding tourism industry that is diversifying to cater to a new breed of more adventurous visitors, offerings of water born activities run by local guides and operators that can give you a first-hand experience of this saly water mecca are now meeting this new demand in the most authentic of ways. With Tahitian bed and breakfasts known as ‘Pensions’ pronounced ‘pon-see-on’ abounding on many islands, these traditional family run guest houses often grant lagoon-side access and activities unique to their local waters that aid in giving an unprecedented experience in the Polynesian way of life. Local operators are adapting and with a bit of research it’s not too hard to find a local to give you a first-hand experience at whatever you love (or want to learn to love) to do. Along with an ever-growing accommodation offering via AirBnB, you’re no longer confined to a resort unless you want to be. From the ocean and wind driven sports of outrigger paddling (va’a) stand up paddling, prone paddling, surf ski, holopuni (sailing canoe), sailing, windsurfing, kiting, and now everything with a foil strapped to the bottom of a board; to open water swimming, scuba, free-diving, spear fishing as well as surfing thanks to the proliferation of reef ‘passes’ and beach breaks that abound, French Polynesia is the South Pacific bounty for all and every water sport enthusiast.
You can foil, or you can foil in paradise with the backdrop to match PC: Mat Fouliard
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X
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RED BULL ILLUME FINALIST
PHOTOGRAPHER: JAN KASL LOCATION: Iceland THE SHOT: Iceland is such an incredible place, with the biggest concentration of breathtaking locations. It feels like you appear in the middle of the gallery of natural diversity. You can go any direction and you will find a totally different piece of environmental art. That’s for sure one of the reasons why you can hear the sound of a shutter pretty much everywhere and in all seasons. On the other hand there is still a lot undercovered until you get to explore the island from the bird perspective. When you stand right next to the river, it seems to be a pretty ordinary stream with a flat surface, which totally changes when you get some elevation and discover the real masterpiece made by different depths of a river bottom. I got immediately obsessed by all of these stunning rivers and I knew that the only thing missing in this surreal painting is my awesome friend Vavra Hradilek with his his creek boat.� Image courtesy Red Bull content pool
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