food
A chef grills up chicken spiedini, a house specialty at Latin King.
Register file photos
Des Moines’s Best Italian-American Spots These tried-and-true spots are anything but trendy, yet they always deliver. • Christopher’s (2816 Beaver Ave.; 2743694): Whether you’re in the mood for a good-old spaghetti and meatballs — or something more up to date, like olive chicken — this classic Beaverdale venue hits the spot. • Noah’s (2400 Ingersoll; 288-2246): Go for great pizza and spaghetti and meatballs and grove to the comfort and tradition of one of Des Moines’ most time-honored ItalianAmerican spots. Good late-night choice, too. • Gino’s (2809 Sixth Avenue; 282-4029): Head to this old-side-of-town steak and red-sauce joint for great steaks and a handcrafted chicken Parmesan. Before dinner, enjoy a cocktail in the retro midcentury lounge, complete with aqua swivel chairs. • Latin King (2200 Hubbell Ave.; 266-4466): This ever-popular east-side venue serves arguably the best steak de burgo in town. Chicken spiedini (rolled, breaded, and grilled chicken in a garlicky sauce) is also a specialty.
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• Sam & Gabe’s (8631 Hickman Road, Urbandale; 271-9200): With its handcrafted food and lively jazz in the lounge, this spot brings the supper-club into the 21st century. Pizza Time Whether you like your crust thick or thin, and whether you seek toppings that are classic or contemporary, you’ll likely find your kind of pie somewhere in this town. • Bordenaro’s (6108 S.W. Ninth St.; 2871607): Pizza lovers from all over town flock to this super-casual south-side spot for classic pies featuring an enticing Des Moines-style crust (yielding both crispness and yeasty density) and a take-a-stand spicy sauce. • Chuck’s (3610 Sixth Ave.; 244-4104): This is where you head when only thin-crust pies will do. The decor combines old-school charm with contemporary rich, bold colors. • Fong’s (1220 Locust St.; 288-2935): This quirky Fourth Street spot specializes in admirable China-meets-Italy takes on pizza (Fongolian Beef Pizza, anyone?), and serves them up in a purposefully goofy Tiki bar. • Gusto (1905 Ingersoll Ave., 244-8786): Inventive specialty pies here include the delightful Figaro (pears, fig, blue cheese
and prosciutto) and the Duke (with smoked brisket, barbecue sauce and Colby-Jack cheese). • Wig and Pen Pizza Pub (2005 S. Ankeny Blvd., Suite 300, Ankeny; 963-9777): Get a great version of pan pizza here, with a thick, dense and chewy crust that’s artfully layered — cheese first, followed by toppings, then the bright and tangy red sauce. Barbecue City This list of the great barbecue spots could be much longer, but when pressed, I’d have to put these at the top: • Cactus Bob’s BBQ Corral (5955 Merle Hay Road, Johnston; 331-0057): Baby back ribs and piled-high brisket sandwiches are go-to options here. And just try staying away from the restaurant’s famous homemade barbecue kettle chips. • Findlay’s (1951 Indianola Ave.; 284-1212): Smoked chicken and baby-back ribs stand out, as do the homemade sides (including mac and cheese). It’s all served in a cute (but not cloying) country-store ambiance. • Flying Mango (4345 Hickman Road; 2554111): I especially recommend the brisket and ribs, but they also serve an admirable selection of fish and southern specialties,