DG Magazine – Issue #3

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T U F T S

C O M M U N I C AT I O N S

P U B L I C AT I O N

MAGAZINE

RING TRUE

CALL OF THE WILD

JEWEL OF A PARTNERSHIP

TUDOR — BUILT FOR ADVENTURE

ROLEX KEEPS COLLECTORS HAPPY

ISSUE THREE

© D.YURMAN 2014

P OIS MOI COLLECTION

contents issue 3

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p30 Jewel of a Partnership 5 Welcome 8 Gorgeous Gold 12 FaceTime 14 Benchmarks — Alfonso Luna 15 Ring True 16 A Snowflake That Can Take the Heat 17 Past Perfect 18 Call of the Wild 20 Magerit — From the Heart of Spain 22 Aggie Gameday Rocks 24 Roberto Coin — Everyday Chic 26 Sea Life Differently 28 Best Laid Bands 29 Trend Watch 30 Jewel of a Partnership 32 Ring Pass 34 DG Love Stories 35 Tiffany & Heath, a Couple’s Q&A 36 The Forevermark Promise 38 Ringing in the Trends 40 More Than Just the Ring 42 TUDOR — Built for Adventure 44 David Yurman’s World of Beauty 45 Don’t Forget the Band 46 Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy 50 Aggie Proud

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Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Larry Stuart • Art Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Kyle Boyer • Designer Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography *Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

David Gardner’s Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

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trends in gold

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Robert Coin Primavera mesh hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold $1,620.

H E D D A

S H U P A K

There’s a saying in fashion circles that if you hang onto something long enough, it comes back into style. It’s true. Of course, there’s also the corollary that if you’re old enough to have worn something the first time around, you should pass on it the second. Luckily, that part isn’t always true. Fine jewelry transcends all ages. It’s all in how you wear it.

The 1980s were all about gold. Jewelry was big, bold, and shiny, to offset big hair and bigger shoulders. The trend was ubiquitous: buttons, zippers, buckles and handbag hardware also were gold-toned, and home decor centered more on brass than chrome.

Then the 1990s came and design did an about-face. Shoulder pads gave way to slip-dresses, supermodels to waifs, and big hair to bed-head. At home, brass was out and stainless steel ushered in an era of industrial luxury. And in fine jewelry, a great whitewashing had begun: yellow gold went back into the jewelry box in favor of anything diamond, silver, white gold or platinum.

But design, like history, is cyclical. Yellow gold started coming back in the aughties, and now it’s a full-on fashion force.

The World Gold Council reported gold jewelry demand in 2013 had the largest volume increase since 1997. Gold jewelry demand increased 6% in the fourth quarter of 2013 alone.

Stacking snake bracelets in 18k rose gold with smoky quartz, diamond pavé and amethyst heads, by Roberto Coin. Starting at $7,000.

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Earrings from the Lunaria collection by Marco Bicego.

Starting at $1,090.

William Levine 18k yellow gold sliced red and white sapphire necklace, $4,670.

David Gardner marquise prasiolite cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold with diamond accents $5,800.

Bold and Bright, Gold Is Fashion Right!

But we don’t need official figures to see that gold is hot. We saw it all over the red carpet, favored by It Girls like Lupita Nyong’o and Jennifer Lawrence.

In case you sat out the Oscars, picking up a home magazine is proof enough that yellow is in: The Epoch Times recently labeled gold “the hottest trend for 2014 home decor.”

Of course, it’s never quite the same the second time around. Just as fashion always comes back with just enough of a subtle shift to separate the new from the old, so do home and jewelry designs. Today, gold and copper accents warm up stainless steel and nickel. Think of adding a touch of old-fashioned luxe to modern industrial chic, not a 1980s brass revival.

So, back to the original question: can you wear your Eighties gold without looking like a relic from Dynasty? Yes, but not without adding something new to bring it up to date. It’s the same rule as in fashion: one vintage piece is cool but vintage head-to-toe just looks like Grandma was your stylist.

“We’re really seeing a redefinition of jewelry pieces, a reimagining of the way we wear jewelry,” says Jamie Gage of LoveGold. Earrings may climb up or cuff the ear instead of the traditional down-facing dangle, or the design may pass through the front and back of the ear. Really modern: wear just one super-bold earring, not a pair.

“We’re also seeing multi-finger rings or delicate midi rings that only go up to the first knuckle. Or hand bracelets where a delicate chain goes up and over the hand,” says Gage. “It’s all about mixing and matching and layering.”

Layering, of course, means you always have a good excuse to add to your jewelry collection. Whether it’s stacks of bangles or chains, you can pile it on for a larger look. Here are the top gold trends, below. Just remember: whatever you wear, statement making is the way to wear it, so don’t be shy.

Robert Coin Chic & Shine collection 18k yellow gold oval link bracelet $7,000.

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Top Trends Boho Chic This is the ultimate pile-it-on trend. Stack on rings and bangles, heap on layers of delicate chains, (especially with pendants), add dangling earrings and you’ve caught the modern romantic hippie vibe.

Charm Bracelets Tell your own story with a bracelet that you create and talismans that have special meaning just for you. Gage says the latest trend in charms incorporates our digital world: maybe it’s a classic charm with a message in text-ese, LOL. Or if you don’t like the clank of a charm bracelet, incorporate a personal message into a ring, pendant or locket.

Katie Decker assorted charms in 18k yellow gold. Starting at $1,870.

Sleek and Sculpted A bold power cuff sets off today’s modern minimalism. Whether it’s a tunic with sculpted space age shoulders or a modern power suit, finish it off with a power cuff in the boldest gold, or an openwork wire version that takes up volume yet still looks airy.

Links and Chains Go nonconformist chic in gold ear cuffs and studs that make a strong statement — without safety pins. The Jewelry Information Center in New York says triangles are the most trending shape in fine jewelry; perhaps taking their inspiration from the studs and pyramids of modern punk?

Rose Gold Thanks to fashion designers, rose gold has really come into its own.

While it’s always been favored in Europe, it’s finally caught on Stateside. By last summer, InStyle magazine had labeled it the #4 “must-have” fine jewelry trend, and it’s still going stronger than ever. Whether mixed with diamonds or any other metal or gem, the new “it gold” flatters almost every skin tone there is. Again, the trend crosses categories: copper accents are the rose gold of the home world.

“Yellow and rose are really having a moment,” says Gage.

“People are starting to invest in fine jewelry that reads like fine jewelry.” Still, for sophisticated consumers who like the appeal of the inconspicuous, blackened or oxidized gold is precious without being obvious.

Recycled Gold David Gardner Statement Ring collection “Wild” 8.20 carat trilliant amethyst in 18k yellow gold and .96 carats of pave diamonds $6,250.

Finally, no discussion of gold trends would be complete without a mention of recycled gold. A lot of gold is recycled anyway, but more and more designers are making a statement with it, and eco-conscious consumers are listening.

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jeweler spotlight

Benchmarks – Alfonso Luna of those jobs where I just worked on it until we liked it, which made it fun, it was easier because we had the freedom of the fluid design.

This beautiful tanzanite ring has your prints all over it, what was about this ring that made it a memorable project for you?

For me this was a high-risk piece because tanzanite is soft and easy to scratch because of its three planes of cleavage. This ring is also simple but full of detail, I liked that I got to work on it from the beginning to end.

Dean says you’re the best at pave’ work of anyone he’s ever seen! What’s your secret?

The title “bench jeweler” has always seemed like an inadequate title for Alfonso Luna who has diligently worked at a jeweler’s bench peering through a microscope at David Gardner’s Jewelers, for 16 years. Around the store he’s known as Fonz, but you may have also heard him called our “Pave’ Prince.” Here is our interview with him and how he went from apprentice to creating masterpieces.

How did you find your path to being a jeweler?

My high school art teacher suggested it. She noticed that I would make jewelry out of plastic and coins. One time I carved a diamond out of plastic with facets and everything and made a ring for my wife.

How did you meet David?

When I was at Paris Junior College, David came and made a presentation.

I remember thinking the photos he had of his pieces were cool, but I had no idea, at the time, about quality. He was interviewing for a jeweler and it came down to me and another guy and he chose me.

What’s been the key to your success at the store?

I started as an apprentice in repair but quickly moved into doing pave’ work. Around the time I began hand-carving pieces in wax we got the CAD program and machine for custom work. Now I do it all, assembly, fabrication and even colored stone setting.

What made this incredible demantoid ring one of your favorite projects over the years?

This ring had a beautiful organic design, it looks different from every direction. It was one

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Patience! especially at the end. When you think there’s light at the end of the tunnel, the job is almost done, you can’t rush it, that’s when you have to take a step back, take a deep breath and keep going.

What excites you about your job?

I think pave’ is exciting. Setting a giant stone or creating something on CAD. I like exceeding the customer’s expectations and blowing them away with the final product, that excites me.

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A SNOWFLAKE that can take the heat Sitting down with Bob and Kathy Gresham to talk about the inspiration and design of Kathy’s surprise 24th anniversary gift will give you a glimpse into one of the coolest projects for one of the hottest love stories we’d heard in quite sometime.

Bob and Kathy met while they were attending Sam Houston State University. “We just kept bumping into each other. We’d meet at the grocery store, have a class together occasionally, stand in line behind each other at the bookstore. It seemed we were destined to meet,” said Kathy. After a little prodding from a mutual friend Bob asked Kathy out on their first date and the rest is history.

For their 24th wedding anniversary Bob wanted to do something special, and something that was a complete surprise. “I don’t get the chance to surprise her much,” he said. “I have to hide all of her gifts or she’ll find them. One year I hid her present in the AC vent!”

A recent viewing of a Discovery documentary on the uniqueness of snowflakes coupled with Kathy’s lifetime love of all things snowflake gave Bob the inspiration for this one of a kind pendent.

“For us, it was a spectacular project,” said David. “There was fun and freedom in the process and researching snowflakes’ crystalline structure to make into a pendent was something we had never done before.”

“Once we got passed the complexity of the design, finding ceylon sapphires the right color was proving to be a challenge,” said David. “When we found sapphires the right light blue color, we had to send them back to be recut specifically for the design.”

When the day came to give her the pendent, Kathy still had no idea what awaited her. “I’m an ER nurse so I’m never speechless,” she said. “But I was genuinely shocked, in the best way!”

“We are each other’s soul mates and this piece perfectly demonstrates our unique relationship.

There is only one of me, and there is only one of these,” she said pointing to her snowflake.

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ring remodel

Past Perfect

Dayle and Tommy Burnside

met

pieces that felt special,” said David.

when

At David Gardner’s Jewelers, the design process is a partnership

they were 11 years

between the customer and the designer. The goal is to tailor the

old, and even though

piece to be exciting for the customer and a mesh between great de-

they

cele-

sign, their personality and how they intend to wear the piece. These

brated their 45th wed-

recently

factors are what make the process both fun and challenging. Trust

ding anniversary, Dayle

is an important factor in making the final product one that is loved

will tell you the number of years has never mattered to her.

and worn for many years to come.

“We still stop and dance to our favorite song, we enjoy each

For Tommy, the only thing that mattered was Dayle’s hap-

other and that’s what it’s about. We got it right, we’re just very

piness. Knowing her love of yellow gold and her request for a

blessed,” she said.

squared center, David suggested yellow diamonds to halo the cen-

When it came to time “remodel” her wedding ring she trusted David Gardner to partner with in the design process that would bring her diamond to life.

“This was a fun project for us. Dayle is extremely spirited. She was willing to experiment and not afraid of the dramatic. We knew

ter stone in a square shape.

“I loved the idea of canary diamonds, it was the first of several ideas from David that gave me complete confidence in him as a designer,” said Dayle. “Every time I look at my ring, I see the love my husband has for me.”

she had a spectacular diamond already and she greatly enjoyed

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jewery for him

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MAGERIT From The Heart of Spain

AM AZ ING

Magerit is a Spanish company made up of professionals whose knowledge and great experience in the field of fine jewellery cultivates designs distinguished by a high degree of both creativity and originality.

When founded in 1994, it was important to the creators to embrace the essence of Spanish culture. The headquarters were established in the heart of Spain, and even the company’s name, Magerit, an ancient name for the thriving city of Madrid, reflects this. Like the meaning behind the name, ‘place of many streams’, Magerit draws inspiration from many cultures and different regions to create exquisite pieces of art, which are as unique as the people who wear them.

Magerit takes pride in making top-quality artisanal jewellery. From creating bespoke personal designs to highly original and refreshing pieces, Magerit’s foremost objective is to breathe new life into the traditional jewellery industry. With the increasing global outreach, the company displays its collections in many top jewellery exhibitions, and has developed strong roots both domestically and within the international market.

Magerit has used the unlimited ingenuity and the savoir-faire of its jewelers to the fullest to develop its own distinctive and characterised style of portraying the aesthetic appeal of natural and historic motifs within its collections. The original artisanal skills of craftsmen combined with modern technologies enable the creation of jewels which encompass both novelty and personality.

An important attribute of Magerit jewels is their serial number, which is engraved on individual pieces and which guarantees their exclusive nature as a unique, hand-crafted item.

Distinguishing design and superior quality are Magerit products’ main features which differentiate the brand from other jewellery.

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sports style

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C A R O L

B E S L E R

Everyday

Chic

Padlock pendants from the Roberto Coin Pois Moi collection, in 18k yellow and white gold, with diamond accents.

Pois Moi is Roberto Coin’s new down-to-earth signature collection for elegant everyday wear Italian jewelry maestro Roberto Coin is well known for his whimsical, creative pieces, many of which have graced the red carpet and the covers of high fashion magazines. His genius has produced everything from bracelets in the form of fire breathing dragons to a diamond-studded ring sculpted to resemble the head of a roaring tiger whose tongue is set with pink sapphires. Although these quirky showstoppers often steal the spotlight, Roberto Coin has also demonstrated a deep understanding of the need for well-designed, well-crafted everyday gold jewelry — not every occasion calls for a roaring diamond tiger. Coin’s day wear tends

Earrings in 18k rose gold, with diamond accents, from the Pois Moi collection.

toward the classic — it is wearable, modern, yet occasionally with traditional or vintage design codes, and always made according to the same principles of craftsmanship as the finest piece of high jewelry.

His latest signature collection is the Pois Moi, which is distinctive both for its shape and finish. The shape of most of the earrings, rings, bangles, pendants and cuff links in the collection was inspired by the rounded-off square television monitors of the 1950s. Coin’s modern take on this retro shape is both refined and avant-garde, and the collection has become an instant classic.

The collection’s other signature design code is its pattern of slight indentations or perforations in the gold. This grid of round indentations adds texture and creates subtle light return, an interesting take on the surface finish of gold. “Even if the design appears extremely linear and simple, the manufacturing technique is very complicated and requires the highest precision,” says the designer.

Bangles in 18k yellow and white gold, with diamond accents, from the Pois Moi collection.

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“After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for something with an innovative design that could become a signature style in the same way,” says Coin. “The design is ultra-modern, with a touch of vintage, so it perfectly fits a woman of any age.

“The pattern comes from mixing different ideas,” he says, “including the texturing of the gold and the ‘pois’ (polka dot) trend seen at the Spring fashion shows. This style has never been introduced in the jewelry world. In particular, the soft, square silhouette finds its inspiration in the Italian vintage trend called ‘television shape,’ reminiscent of the old monitors of the 1950s.”

Circular pendants in 18k yellow gold from the Pois Moi collection.

Square shaped bangle and ring from the Pois Moi collection, in 18kt rose gold, with white diamond pavé detail, and a Roberto Coin signature hidden 0.3 carat ruby.

Gold is the primary element, but many pieces are set with diamonds and other gemstones. Many feature pavé diamond details.

Each piece includes a hidden 0.3 carat ruby, a signature of the designer, meant to bring good luck to the wearer.

Roberto Coin feels the Pois Moi collection is unlike anything he has ever created. In fact, when asked what makes Pois Moi typically Roberto Coin, or how it compares to other pieces in his line, he replies, “It does not compare at all. Pois Moi has a design that I never thought I would create. If five or six years ago you had asked me about a design like Pois Moi, I would unfortunately have answered you that I was not interested at all. The first reason I finally designed the collection is because of the current real market situation. I knew I had to create something that is new, young, innovative and super chic, something powerfully elegant as I like to define the Pois Moi collection.”

As usual, his instincts were right on target. “The reason why it is already an icon is the huge success the collection has had with the public, which is the final arbiter, and because of the extreme elegance that only simplicity can make eternal,” he says.

Despite this renewed commitment to the everyday, accessible Pois Moi collection, Coin has not abandoned his love for the glittering showpieces that are his trademark.

To the question, ‘what single item of jewelry should every woman should own?’ he replies: “A big and colored cocktail ring, the larger the better.”

Square shaped cuff links and rings from the Pois Moi collection, in 18k yellow gold and white diamond pavé detail.

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SEA LIFE DIFFERENTLY “Pearls may seem like the calling card of grandmothers, but the recent resurgence of the jewelry staple is anything but tame,” says fahion blogger WhoWhatWear. We could’t agree more. While there is always a place in our hearts for the classic look of a strand of pearls, we are currently enamored with the infinite ways to reinvent our pearl jewelry.

This stunner adds instant glamour to any outfit, thanks to the drama of the contrast of pearls and black sapphires.

Give the color wheel a good, hearty spin by adding a slice of color to make the rose’ hues in these baroque pearls really pop!

In the mood for something more adventurous? This yellow gold and grey pearl necklace paired with a pendant that can also be worn as a broach, takes any outfit up a notch.

The only layering that is flattering and doesn’t add bulk! Mix proportion and texture to put a modern spin on ladylike pearls.

Bring out the underlying gold hues by adding a simple yellow gold and diamond pendant.

Here’s a score of a combination - the famous century tree pendant worn on white gold chain accented w grey pearls and diamonds. This combination takes you into overtime – 6 times.

Effortless sophistication – makes a statement while still being easy to style with lots of different outfits.

Dainty pink pearls dangle from delicate yellow gold chain, can be doubled or worn long with this pearl pendant. Fashion hint – wear the pearl pendant with your classic pearl strand.

best LAID bands

Take the guesswork out minimalist influence with Gumuchian equestrian stackables

Rock Your Stack As with any best laid plan, you have to be ready for the unexpected.

One of our favorite unexpected jewelry styles is stacked bands. With no two hands that will ever look alike, stackables give every

woman the chance to make a statement all her own.

Finding the perfect stack takes some experimenting. Here are a few from the DG girls to help you rock your stack.

Fine Art - blending colors and designs, for a thoughtful-haphazard style

Color, sentimental, mixing metals, colors, tone and elements of sparkle

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trend WATCH WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

WWW

We know, you just mastered bracelet stacking, but it’s TIME to bring some bling to your lonely WATCH. Plus, we’re always looking for ways to make jewelry more versatile! We’ve combined a few styles to get you started.

for the classic

Usually a collector of timeless pieces, the always-in-style Rolex is complimented by a traditional diamond bangle. Break up your streamlined pieces with a chain link bracelet.

for the boho chic

A bold oversized watch anchors this collection. The chunky link bracelet balances the dainty bangle and a true Boho girl always adds some more color.

for the femme

Start with a pastel hue watch to amp up the feminine factor and opt for a petite piece in the same color family. You can’t go wrong with additional sparkle....ever!

see how easy it is?

WATCH OUT WORLD!

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Ring Pass DG customers often celebrate milestones with us, it’s a huge part of why we love what we do. So when one family celebrated the engagement of their son and their 40th wedding anniversary within weeks of each other, and DG jewels were a part of each celebration, we knew it would be a year to remember.

Karen and Dick Davison met in the 9th grade and were high school sweethearts. “This year we counted 46 Valentines Days we’ve spent together,” said Karen. For the first 25 years they were married Karen wore Dick’s grandmother’s wedding set. Purchased in the 1940s in New Orleans, the gorgeous sapphire and ruby dinner ring and eternity band is now part of their daughter-in-law’s wedding set. For their 25th anniversary, Dick chose a round diamond solitaire. Karen enjoyed her diamond until she fell under the spell of an oval diamond just in time for their 30th anniversary! “I’ve had a revolving door of beautiful rings,” she joked.

For their 40th anniversary Dick wanted to make sure she had something special she could wear often. His daughter suggested diamond jackets for Karen’s diamond studs he’d given her last summer for her 60th birthday. The idea was a hit and beautiful halo jackets custom made in the DG shop were the result. A celebration dinner with their children followed by champagne and wedding

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Photography by Lauren Yezak Reagan

cake at their Riverside studio made for a perfect celebration of the blessing of 40 happy years together. “God blessed us richly with our children and grandchildren, we are so thankful,” the couple said.

The engagement and wedding of their son and daughter-in-law this year was another exciting blessing. Richard and Julie met in January 2013. It didn’t take long for everyone around them to realize their special bond. After a year of dating, Richard decided it was time to find the perfect ring to go with his great-grandmother’s wedding band. He decided on an oval center stone and a vintage inspired Precision Set ring.

“Once I had the ring in my hand, I just wanted to ask her as soon as possible,” said Richard. After a weekend with her family and receiving the blessing from her parents, Richard asked Julie to marry him Easter Sunday on his family’s ranch. “We want to build one day and when we got to the spot that I always thought would be perfect for our house, I got down on one knee.” Through tears of joy, Julie said “YES!” “I get to marry the man of my dreams, I am so blessed.” The happy couple married on November 8, 2014 in an intimate ceremony in Bryan, Texas.

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Q&A He loves her outspoken wit and confidence; she is enamored by his humor and laid back demeanor. The old cliché that opposites attract might ring true for Tiffany and Heath in some respects, but when it came to her engagement ring they both knew that a custom design by David Gardner was the obvious choice.

Describe the process of having her ring designed. Fears? Expectations?

The process was intimidating to me at first.

As a guy you know it has to be done right, but you have absolutely no idea what you are doing. David made it easy and took the time to find out what Tiff and I both wanted. He and I had conversations throughout the design process about what I wanted it to look like, and what he thought would look best. After our conversations I completely trusted him to knock it out of the park and the end product was incredible. It out did every expectation we had; even my buddies make comments on the ring.

How did you know he/she was the one?

She has the sharpest wit of anyone I have ever met…and the biggest heart. She is the “go-to” person for all of her friends in any situation.

Watching him interact with people is what made me realize I wanted to marry Heath. He is smart, kind, sincere, and hilarious (among other things), people just love being around him. He is also very calm and steady, a great balance to my Type A + Italian blood combo.

Describe the proposal and plans leading up to it. How many people had to keep it a secret?

I kept it a secret until I picked up the ring, and even then, I only told our parents and siblings. I put it in a safe deposit box to give myself some time to come up with something good, but I left the bank and decided I couldn’t wait. I was so nervous about Tiff finding out that I decide to go for it and planned the whole proposal in 24 hours. My buddy helped me locate a restaurant with a nice courtyard that I could propose in, and I sent an email to 50 of our closest friends and family the night before (secrecy was key), informing them when and where it was happening.

I told Tiff we were going to grab dinner at a new spot, and while driving over she informed me that she had had a rough day. I remember telling her “Well it’s about to get a lot better.”

I remember telling her “it’s about to get a lot better.”

The whole thing went off with military precision. We had nice moment by ourselves in the courtyard and then she was shocked to see our closest friends and family members waiting inside. I found out later that my buddy and her roommate had physically moved a band that was playing at the restaurant that night that had tried to set up in the courtyard. All in all it was perfect, and a memory we will always cherish.

Did you have butterflies when you asked her to marry you?

Of course I did. I had a whole nice speech that I was going to use when I got down on one knee. I ended up telling her the speech on the way home because the actual proposal was a blur and I pretty much blanked out when I showed her the ring.

When Heath got down on one knee and proposed, I found myself scared to look at the ring!!! As I recovered from the shock of being proposed to, I bent down to Heath on one knee and hugged and kissed him and said YES!! When we came back into reality, Heath was still standing there with the ring – the most beautiful ring I have ever seen – and said, “well, are you going to take this?” I laughed and took it and was quickly reminded why I was so obsessed with DG’s couture pieces. I asked Heath if this was seriously my ring because it was so much more than I could have ever imagined.

I get comments on it everyday. When Heath is with me and is commended on a great job on the ring, he responds,

“David made me look really good.”

designer spotlight

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H E D D A

S C H U P A K

the

forevermark

B

promise:

Beautiful Diamonds And A Commitment To Sustainability

In 1947, Frances Gerety, a young copywriter at the N.W. Ayer

The Forevermark diamond journey begins at the mine, where rough

advertising agency in Philadelphia, penned what would become the most

diamonds are extracted from deep within the earth. Each mine produces

famous advertising slogan of all time: “A Diamond Is Forever.” And so

a wide range of rough diamonds, but only the highest quality rough

De Beers — the name of an otherwise obscure South African mining

material will be cut into a Forevermark diamond.

company — was burned into the American consumer consciousness as the world’s source for diamonds.

From this was born the Forevermark diamond brand. Diamond mining

companies from Australia, Russia and Canada now share De Beers’

Once cut and polished, experts at the Forevermark Diamond Institute in Antwerp, Belgium, carefully inspect each stone again to determine its fit for the brand. Between 5% and 10% are still rejected for not meeting quality standards.

formerly exclusive space in the diamond market, but De Beers alone is responsible for making the promise already established in consumers’ minds: that a diamond means love, forever.

“Promises are powerful, precious and eternal,” says Charles Stanley,

president of Forevermark US, Inc. based in Connecticut. “A promise is so precious that only a diamond will do. Believing in the power of a promise is at the core of who we are and who we want to be.”

• At least 14 points or larger (there are 100 points in a carat).

• Cut to a standard of Very Good or better, according to the American Gem Society grading scale.

• Graded at an “L” color or above (on a scale from D to Z established by the Gemological Institute of America).

Forevermark diamonds are designed to deliver the promise in the

• Graded at a clarity value of SI or above — there are 11 clarity grades for

highest manner possible. Only certain carefully selected diamonds are

diamonds: Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very, Very Slightly

eligible to carry the Forevermark brand inscription; only certain designers

Included (VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2),

and manufacturers may set them into jewelry, and only certain retailers

Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2), and Included (I1, I2 and I3).

may sell them.

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A Forevermark diamond must be:

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Stunning 1.25 Forevermark diamond set in custom David Gardner 1.1ctw pave diamond halo setting.

Forevermark by David Gardner solitaire pendent in 18k white gold.

Forevermark by Precision Set, three-stone ring set in 18k white gold.

Less than 1% of diamonds mined in the world meet those standards,

by the late Nelson Mandela for his commitment to freedom and justice.

say Forevermark executives. Diamonds that pass the final inspection are

Today, the Forevermark promise demands that not only are its diamonds

then inscribed (microscopically, on the table facet) with the Forevermark

conflict free, but that the mines they come from benefit the communities

icon and a unique identification number, using proprietary technology

in which they are operating, in areas such as health care, education and

that is impossible to alter or duplicate. The microscopic mark — roughly

training, investment in community infrastructure, and a commitment to

1/5000th of a human hair — can only be seen with a special Forevermark

ecological preservation.

viewer, not even a standard microscope. Only then are they set into jewelry and sold through authorized Forevermark jewelers.

For example, the hospital at the Orapa mine in Botswana also functions as the district hospital, serving not only the mine’s employees and their families, but also providing medical care to local communities within

Promise to the people and the environment

a 600 km radius, and De Beers has set aside 200,000 hectares of land

The promise of eternal love that a diamond symbolizes only tells part

around its mines for conservation of wildlife like cheetah, rhinoceros,

of the Forevermark story. Forevermark diamonds are guaranteed to be

elephants and more. That’s an area five times greater than the footprint

conflict free and responsibly sourced from carefully selected mines in

of the mines themselves.

countries that are committed to the highest business, social, economic, and environmental standards.

Former De Beers chairman Harry Oppenheimer was an outspoken opponent of apartheid in South Africa, and upon his death was eulogized

Forevermark diamonds come from mines in countries such as Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Australia and Canada. Forevermark diamond jewelry is sold at 380 leading jewelry stores across the United States and Canada, and in more than 1,300 doors worldwide.

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ringing in the trends

Modern Designs

In the latter half of the 20th century, the Tiffany-style solitaire setting

became the standard for American engagement rings, and has remained so until recently. It is still hugely popular, but more and more women are entranced with vintage-style milgrain work, halo settings, cushion cut diamonds, and micro-pavé (oddly enough, this vintage-inspired trend was made possible only with the very modern development of CAD-CAM technology).

The round brilliant still remains the numberone diamond shape, but more and more brides are choosing cushion, Asscher, oval, princess, radiant, and other special cuts.

Custom David Gardner 18k yellow gold and diamond halo mounting.

Ladies custom diamond wedding band by David Gardner totaling 3.54ctw of round diamonds set in platinum.

2.80ct emerald-cut center in an 18k white gold double halo mounting with 0.90ct of full cut diamonds. William Levine.

Today the engagement ring that most couples want to buy is the one that best reflects their personal, unique style. Personalization and customization are common — indeed, almost stanRound diamond, cushion halo: two-tone 18k rose and white gold, from Precision Set.

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dard. Some couples still abide by the more traditional method of having the groom select a ring and present it to the bride, but more often, the couple chooses it together.

wedding planner

Incredible custom David Gardner platinum and diamond ring designed for a marquise center stone.

The Kate Effect: Precision Set cushioncut sapphire in a halo of diamonds.

Vintage style David Gardner Anthology three stone engagement ring in 18k white gold and diamonds.

Halos, Clusters, Celebrities, & Colors The halo setting (a center stone surrounded by a “halo” of smaller stones) is the biggest thing to hit engagement ring design since the Tiffany setting. The halo adds visual interest to a single stone, while incidentally making it look way bigger. It’s a win-win all around.

So what’s next? Well, there’s a double halo, or even a triple, but where to go from there? Some fashion soothsayers predict the next big thing may be a diamond cluster ring. Cluster styles are a great option for the bride that wants a big look but has a tight budget, says Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center in New York. The diamond cluster ring has the same advantage as a halo in making a big statement for less money — sometimes far less — than a single stone would cost for comparable size and quality. But rather than the halo’s combination of a center stone surrounded by many tiny diamonds, the cluster uses multiple diamonds of the same size artfully arranged in such a way as to give off maximum sparkle. For example, Real Housewives of Atlanta star Kandi Burress’s engagement ring, from the Karina collection by Gregg Ruth, looks like a two-carat oval, but it’s actually a cluster of smaller diamonds set in the shape of an oval.

Speaking of Burress, celebrity engagements are one of the biggest influences on engagement ring trends. While engagement ring designs do mirror general jewelry style trends, the celebrity trend emerged big in the 1960s with the public’s fascination over Elizabeth Taylor and her engagement ring from Richard Burton.

Today, we know what a celebrity’s ring looks like almost before her groom pops the question.

Recently, lots of them featured cushion cut center stones — in a halo, of course. To wit: Tennis star Ryan Sweeting proposed to The Big Bang Theory’s Kaley Cuoco with a 2.30ct cushion cut halo set engagement ring. Not to be outdone, Tim Witherspoon popped the question to former Destiny’s Child singer Kelly Rowland with a 4ct cushion cut in a halo setting and pavé band. Then rapper Big Sean presented Glee star Naya Rivera with a 4-5ct cushion cut in a platinum halo setting with pavé band.

The cushion cut — so named for its softly rounded corners that resemble a pillow — is the third most popular style after round and princess (square). Some diamond dealers even say it has supplanted the princess as number two. The cut dates back 200 years and was once considered the cut of royalty. Today’s versions, however, use modern cutting technology to imbue this vintage style with renewed sparkle.

Other trending styles include floral designs, east-west settings, colored gemstone centers, mixed metals, and twisted bands. In an east-west setting, an elongated stone such as an oval, radiant cut, or marquise is set sideways across the finger, as opposed to the traditional north-south direction up and down the finger. This modern setting has reignited the popularity of cuts like pears and marquise, which largely fell out of favor in the 1990s.

Color is a huge trend. Color has been big in fashion, and the appeal crosses over into jewelry.

First, there’s the Kate Effect: Kate Middleton (aka the Duchess of Cambridge) wears the sapphire engagement ring belonging to the late Princess Diana, Prince William’s mother, which has driven acceptance of not only sapphires but also other colored gemstones as a center stone. According to Gizzi of the Jewelry Information Center, the newest way to wear color is in the reverse: colored gems flanking the center diamond.

Fancy color diamonds and mixed metals are also trending. Whether platinum and yellow gold, pink and white gold, or even blackened metals for the hipster bride, mixing metals adds a personal touch to the standard engagement ring.

According to Severine Ferrari, editorin-chief of YourEngagement101. com, “Yellow gold has made a big comeback, as well as fancy yellow diamond centers. Rose gold and pink accents are very strong, too.”

Radiant cut yellow diamond in an 18k yellow gold bezel surrounded by diamonds.

Stunning custom David Gardner double halo engagement ring surrounds a .90ct oval diamond with 1.5ctw of diamond accents.

4ct flawless round diamond is set in a romantic custom David Gardner platinum and diamond twist setting shown with matching wedding band.

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more than just the ring

Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or wedding ring.

There’s a wedding gown that needs the right accessories, and what better choice than something the bride (and her attendants) can really wear again?

William Levine floral necklace in 18k yellow gold with 8.25ctw of pink sapphires, 8.52ctw blue sapphire necklace and 2.20ctw of round diamonds, $18,750.

Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on the bodice of the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest diamond or pearl as classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquamarine or blue topaz continue to be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.”

Hair jewels such as brooches or hairpins are also of the moment.

Fashion-forward brides are also drawn to hand ornaments such as bracelet rings (a ring and bracelet connected by a chain), says Gizzi.

Gorgeous Mother of Pearl earrings set in yellow gold plated silver surrounded with 1.7ctw of diamonds by S&R Designs, $2,750.

Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom to give his bride, or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for her, the bride’s parents to give their daughter.

Long after the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and over and always remember that special day.

S&R Designs large Mother of Pearl earrings set in blackened silver, $2,500.

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3-7mm Mikimoto pearl and diamond ring with .99ctw of diamonds, $12,500.

Gifts for the bride, the groom, their parents, and the bridal party Brides are ditching the matchy-matchy gifts and choosing personalized jewelry options, says Gizzi. She suggests initial pendants or monogrammed necklaces. Another way brides are getting personal is by selecting one gemstone or metal as a unifying theme, and then finding different jewelry styles to match each bridesmaid’s personality.

For the mothers of the bride and groom, Gizzi suggests earrings. “Necklines of the dress can vary, so a beautiful pair of small drop earrings in diamonds or gemstones will draw the perfect amount of attention to the face.”

18k white gold Mikimoto Petite Soleil pearl and diamond pendent, $4,500.

For the best man and groomsmen, cuff links are a nobrainer. It’s also a great idea for a gift to the fathers of the bride and groom. In keeping with today’s trend of personalization, choose either a playful style that represents your bud’s or dad’s favorite hobby, or a classic monogrammed style.

Not French cuff kind of guys? Try a sterling silver business card case or flask. With artisan whiskeys and bourbons trending, it’s an elegant and useful accessory.

Finally, the bride needs a gift for her

Katie Decker 18k yellow gold freshwater pink pearl earrings with .25ctw of diamonds, $2,200.

groom. Cufflinks to wear with his suit or tuxedo are his own special marker of the day. This is also a prime time to choose an heirloom timepiece that he will wear every day, and can pass along to children and even grandchildren.

Heritage Chrono watch from Tudor with selfwinding mechanical movement, waterproof to 150 m, 42 mm steel case. Shown on steel bracelet $4,425

Rhodium plated sterling silver Classic tux stud with black onyx and .64 cts champagne diamonds by Katie Decker, $1,100. Rhodium plated sterling silver Sparta cufflink with black onyx and .34 cts champagne diamonds, $690.

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BUILT FOR ADVENTURE TUDOR’s heritage as a high-performance sports watch endures TUDOR’s new Heritage Black Bay and Heritage Ranger collections are so-called because of their heritage: they descend from a long line of high-performance timepieces that were originally issued to divers of the French Navy.

The new Heritage Ranger is a modern interpretation of the collection’s heritage-style watches originally launched in 1967. These were high-performance sports watches built for adventure and extreme conditions. Today’s collection is likewise imbued with the pioneering spirit of the far North and epic tales of sled dogs braving solitary frozen lands and the exploits of adventurers defying hostile environments to explore new frontiers. The robust Heritage Ranger combines technical prowess and supreme reliability in order to withstand such extreme conditions.

Original design codes of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger include the dial color, numeral font, large crown and the distinctive pear shaped hands. All numerals and indexes are hand-painted with a colored luminous substance to create an antique effect. The lugs of the Heritage Ranger echo the original in that they are drilled through to accommodate the spring bars. The new model’s modern updates include a larger case, at 41mm, as well as the introduction of several strap options — and a bonus strap for each model! There is a choice of three strap styles: a brown leather bund strap with satin-finished rivets; or a tobacco-hued leather strap reminiscent of dogsled harnesses, and a steel bracelet. Any of the three options arrive with the bonus adjustable fabric strap in a woven camouflage pattern (crafted by the same French artisans that produce fabric robes for the Vatican). The bund strap is made of a single piece of ma-

terial that runs underneath the watch case, and is lined with alcantara for softness and comfort.

The case is made of satin finished steel, and it contains the self-winding caliber 2824, and it is water resistant to 150 meters.

TUDOR’s new Heritage Black Bay is a tribute to the original model, the Submariner, which was first launched in 1954 and used by divers in the French Navy. The new model retains stylistic elements of the original, including its domed dial, imposing winding crown (introduced on a 1958 model) and angular hands — dubbed “snowflakes” by collectors, and seen on models issued from 1969 to the early 1980s. The dial is matte black, with silver-colored luminescent hands, and the bezel and crown tube are midnight blue. Like the Heritage Ranger, the Heritage Black Bay comes with a bonus strap, featuring an adjustable blue woven fabric, with the purchase of a Heritage Black Bay on a midnight-blue distressed leather strap or on a satin-finished and polished steel bracelet. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

TUDOR is part of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, set up in 1945 by the eponymous founder of Rolex. TUDOR and Rolex respectively address the high-end and premium segments of the market, and are served by a shared legacy of watchmaking expertise and an unparalleled after-sales service organization.

TUDOR Heritage Ranger featured on tobacco hue leather strap

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TUDOR Heritage Black Bay.

1954

60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION

Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of TUDOR’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors. 60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend.

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case.

Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.

®

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World of Beauty

David Yurman’s

David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his collections for this fall.

An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the classic devices of the equestrian world — stirrups, bits, halters and other equipment used in tack. The Cable Buckle collection is an evolution of the designer’s original Thoroughbred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a horse’s bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and with the designer’s iconic cable motif in others. The designs are rendered in sterling silver with 14k yellow gold highlights.

Some are set with diamonds.

The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a reinterpretation of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked rows of metal set with cushion-shaped gemstones capture the effect of light and color dancing on a grid. In fact, the original working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a reference to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement of this concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic, delicate balance. Colored gemstones and diamonds are set in a petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a playful dance.

Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.

The designer’s fall collections are inspired by motifs ranging from the equestrian world to confetti

Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

Confetti Narrow bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

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Cable Buckle bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

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don’t forget the band

Wedding band trends For many couples, the rush of excitement about getting engaged quickly morphs into the hectic details of planning a wedding.

So much so that the most lasting symbol of the marriage — the wedding band — is left as an afterthought. But wedding bands, too, have their design trends. There is always the classic plain gold or platinum band, but more and more couples view the wedding ring as a style statement as well as an outward sign of their commitment, especially women who don’t wear their engagement rings.

Amanda Gizzi points to split-shank bands as a popular trend. This is a style that allows the engagement ring to fit in the mid-

dle, but it can be worn alone, which looks like an open, airy design. Severine Ferrari says the leading trends for wedding rings are intricate designs for the woman’s band, and black diamonds and texture for the men’s band. Alternative metals such as tungsten and titanium are also popular for men’s bands, because of their modern high-tech appeal and their relative indestructibility. But again, remember those Romans: no reason a guy can’t also have two wedding bands: his gold or platinum ring for the ceremony and to wear for dress, and the second contemporary metal band to wear for sports.

And, of course, multiple bands give women fashion options. “Stacking bands let women

achieve a balanced aesthetic. One band on top of the engagement ring balances the ring on the bottom,” says Gizzi. “Some women continue to stack on bands after the ‘I do.’”

14k yellow gold gents wedding band with hammered accents by David Gardner.

Christian Bauer wedding bands in 18k yellow and white gold and diamonds.

Mark Schneider Eclipse ring with a satin and high polish finish.

Bold and Beautiful collection

by Novell in 14k and 18k yellow and white gold.

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keeps collectors happy

New colors, jeweling and a ceramic breakthrough for Rolex

Every year, amidst a sea of online predictions and wish-list postings, watch aficionados and fans of Rolex eagerly await the brand’s new introductions. The new models introduced this year did not disappoint.

The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with red and blue Cerachrom bezel.

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The most talked about novelty was the long awaited Oyster Perpetual GMT Master with a distinctive red and blue bezel (which Rolex lovers call the “Pepsi” because of its coloring). The GMT Master II captures the color code of the original 1955 version of this iconic model, but with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely difficult to do in ceramic, not just in terms of achieving a seamless break between red and blue halves — a major accomplishment in itself — but because this particular shade of red is a challenge, and long considered impossible to create in ceramic. (The bezel of the 1955 version was Plexiglass). The new GMT Master II also has a revamped movement, the self-winding Caliber 3186, with a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is ten-times more precise than a conventional hairspring and highly shock resistant. The 40mm case is white gold, and the model is not limited.

Rolex also introduced an updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller this year. The model was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), and the new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). The only other revision of this iconic model was in 1978, also rated at 4,000 feet. New is the black Cerachrom bezel with PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. The new version, which is steel, retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium escape valve.

Another innovation is a collection of three new versions of the Sky-Dweller: 18k Everose Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller.

gold case and bracelet (with a beautiful “Sundust” dial); 18k white gold on a strap; and 18k yellow gold on a strap. The Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, was first launched to acclaim in 2012 and includes a bezel-driven function setting. With Caliber 9001, it has a dual time zone and annual calendar, with months uniquely displayed through apertures on the periphery of the dial.

The three new versions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models in 31mm and 36mm sizes previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors, including Azzurro Blue, Red Grape, White Grape (a gold tone), Steel and White Lacquer with blue Roman numerals. The watches contain the Caliber 3130 self-winding movement, with Parachrom hairspring. Two of the watches are set with diamonds in combination with either blue or pink sapphires in two different shades — with the gems adjacent to the hour markers contrasted in a slightly darker hue.

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is another favorite of collectors. An anti-magnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, it was reintroduced in 2007 with a unique green sapphire crystal, a first in watchmaking. This year’s version features an electric blue dial which, under the green crystal, takes on a powerful magnetic hue. This is perhaps the most unique color combination of any other Rolex watch, and is sought after by both men and women, and by both aficionados and newcomers to the brand alike.

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster with diamonds.

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Female collectors are thrilled to see the new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 collection this year, a series of three 34mm models that are gem-set, each with options that include diamonds on the bracelets as well as the cases.

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss features a new electric blue dial.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors.

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family honor

AGGIE PROUD Lambert Wilkes, father of Julia Gardner, has been chosen as one of five honorees for the Cotton Research and Promotion Program Inaugural Hall of Fame. The honorees are recognized for their contributions that have shaped the modern cotton industry.

Professor Lambert Wilkes (deceased), along with his team at Texas A&M, is responsible for the engineering of the cotton module builder, which dramatically increased the efficiency of cotton collection and storage.

Julia says of her father, “I am so grateful that he is being recognized for his contribution. Although we often tell others about the cotton module, he would be the last to tell you. I think that’s just one more reason he was so well respected.”

The cotton module builder is a machine used in the harvest and processing of cotton. The module builder has helped to solve a logistical bottleneck by allowing cotton to be harvested quickly and compressed into large modules which are then covered with tarpaulins and temporarily stored at the edge of the field. The modules are later loaded onto trucks and transported to a cotton gin for processing.

In 2000, the state of Texas acknowledged the module builder as one of the four most significant economic achievements of the 1970s, alongside the opening of Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport and Southwest Airlines.

“I never really knew if he understood the impact of the module builder. Sure, he got how it changed things, but for such an important invention and innovation, he never mentioned its importance to any-

one I’m aware of, or the fact that he led the team that invented it. He was always humble like that,” says an industry colleague.

In 2002, the American Society of Agricultural and Biological Engineers dedicated the cotton module builder as an historic landmark of agricultural engineering, naming it “one of the top three inventions in mechanized cotton production.”

Lambert Wilkes was a pioneer in the cotton industry. Born in Blair, South Carolina, he attended Clemson, then Texas A&M. He served his country in the Air Force and then went on to become a professor of Agricultural Engineering at A&M. Professor Wilkes wrote many books, authored many papers as most professors do but he did something that truly revolutionized cotton ginning.

OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER II

rolex

oyster perpetual and yacht-master ii are trademarks.