Index 1.
The Airbrush
2.
From cave paintings to Hollywood - the history of Airbrush
3.
Main advantages of Airbrush
4.
Shadowing and highlighting the different face shapes
5.
Applying the blushes according to the face shapes
6.
Preparing the skin of the face with PANDHY’S™ products
7.
The PANDHY’S™ minAIRal mist on colours
8.
The use of PANDHY’S™ powdAIR jet Airbrush Compressor
9.
The structure of the PANDHY’S™ powdAIR jet Airbrush Compressor and spray gun
10.
Maintenance of PANDHY’S™ powdAIR jet Airbrush spray gun and compressor
11.
Using the stencils
12.
Notes
1. The Airbrush The airbrush make-up technique which has been popular in the USA for decades, provides new opportunities for make-up. This solution is the most modern make-up technology of our era (the 2010s) and has become a critical element for experienced professional make-up artists as well as for perfectionist beauticians. This technology means immaculate, fine-tuned make-ups with the most natural and vivid look. Cleanness has been an important aspect during the development of the technique, meaning no touch of the hand is involved, therefore all possibilities of inflammation or infection has been eliminated. PANDHY'S™ has taken this idea further, providing only pure, nurturing and healing products for the skin; put on smoothly, evenly and perfectly thin to give the perfect natural look, only in a few minutes. Airbrush in the world of make-up Airbrush is actually the response of the beauty industry to the increasing HD technology, and the increased requirements along with it. This technique provides a perfect natural look for the everyday use as well as for the work of the professional make-up artists. Fortunately, with the help of airbrush, it is possible to work more effectively and faster than before, while an accurate, almost retouched effect is guaranteed. Due to its fineness, it is a perfect choice for decent, everyday style and for extravagant, occasional make-up creations as well. The technology The “soul” of the airbrush is the compressor-operated spray gun which allows you to apply the foundation, the blusher, the eyebrow paint and the eye shadow, layer by layer, in a super thin way. The final result is a perfect look - whether the goal is a discreet, natural look or a spectacular, striking make-up. Furthermore, airbrush may be combined with all the other traditional make-up methods, making it a universal tool with endless possibilities. From the screen to the beauty salon Every woman desires to have the perfect, airbrushed look of the celebrities of Hollywood especially at special occasions, like a wedding or a dinner. The demand for the professional use of airbrush has therefore increased in the everyday work of the beauty salons. The applied materials provide an even and permanently beautiful cover during the day and during the night - without the pores being blocked. This is a great solution for clients with the most sensitive skin, as the spray gun does not touch the skin at all - and hygiene is always a primary aspect in the salons!
2
2. From cave paintings to Hollywood - the history of Airbrush The idea of applying the dye with a spraying method is not at all a new idea. Actually, its roots take us back to ancient times when cave paintings were created by blowguns. The first tool called airbrush was created in the United States at the end of the nineteenth centuries, designed to help painters, and soon become a method taught in schools as well. The secret of airbrush has not changed ever since: the dye is dissolved into tiny drips by the air pressure flowing through the spray gun, allowing it to be applied in very thin layers on the skin in amazingly sophisticated mix and shades of colors. Before the digital era, airbrush was the only possibility for subsequent retouching of photos. In some cases they used the method only for covering defects, but in some other cases, they used it for censoring the photos so even some parts could have been erased or modified by the spray gun. The world of make-up has discovered the potential of airbrush during filming the movie Ben Hur. They used this method for painting the bodies of the hundreds of extras in the film, as airbrush can cover large areas quickly. It has remained the most important tool in body painting, but its advantages in preparing beauty make-ups came into view today. No wonder that the confident use of the spray gun has become a basic requirement for all make-up artists in the United States and the technique has quickly become very popular among the stars of Hollywood. As women usually look up the “stars”, airbrush has already become an everyday tool in the beauty salons, and in fact, in more and more bathrooms as well.
3. Main advantages of Airbrush The main reason of the success of airbrush is the quick, clean and hygienic treatment. The time length of doing the make-up can be significantly shortened by the use of this technology. It is not only quick but also perfectly accurate. The make-up can be applied with the spray gun by very thin layers; therefore almost any kind of make-up is possible. It provides an even cover and guarantees a really natural look even in the highest resolution photos. It is economical, as only a few drops are needed for the make-up of the whole face. It is good for traditional and waterproof make-ups as well, and there are products available to us of different composition suitable to use for the given goal. The combination of the different dies provides almost endless possible shades, so one can surely find the ideal foundation, blusher and eye shadow for each skin tone. It is hygienic as the face is not touched while applying it. It is gentle with the sensitive skin and does not block the pores. It is also extremely durable, providing a lasting effect for even 18 hours. It is recommended for every skin type and the airbrush make-up applied with PANDHY'S™ products have a medicinal effect. The next sections provide information on how to use the airbrush in your everyday work, specifying the colors recommended for different face shapes. How to highlight the bones on different face shapes, how to hide tiredness, which are the common eye shapes and eyebrow curves?! This professional booklet specifically contains the theory and practice of Airbrush technique and it does not contain the whole content of the PANDHY'S™ Make-up Book!
3
4. Shadowing and highlighting the different face shapes Make-up and make-up trends look back to a history of almost 100 years. The trends are always changing, developing and renewing. For professionals like us, it is very important to keep up with the changes and always stay up-to-date with the trends - so we could provide the maximum for our clients. One of the main aspects of today's make-up is the highlighting, shadowing (bone-highlighting) according to the face shapes. Clients often say that they are not satisfied with some parts of their faces. The most common problems are: thick nose, dewlap, tired eyes. The technology of airbrush not only allows you to apply the perfect foundation, matching the skin color, but also the highlighting of the nice parts with bright and brighter colors (highlighters) and the correction of the tired parts. The darker, browner shades let you highlight the bones, making the less attractive parts of the face look thiner. The pictures below show the most common face shapes, highlighting the parts to be brightened and those to be darkened. Important rules! ź Always use matte products! (Except for highlighting - but only on the skin under the outer part of the eyes.) ź The contouring shall be one or two shades darker than the skin color. ź The highlighter shall be one or two shades lighter than the skin color. ź Shading! (Good shading is almost impossible to see! Less is sometimes more!)
Oval face
For oval faces, shading and highlighting are usually not needed. If you'd like to apply contour anyway, put the highlighter on the cheekbones, under the outer part of the eyes. It can also be applied on the forehead or the chin, and the blusher can be applied under the cheekbones, and the contour under the blusher.
4
Round face
For round faces, the two sides of the forehead and the cheekbones shall be darkened, so the face would look more oval and thinner. Put the highlighter in the middle of the forehead, on the chin and under the outer part of the eyes. The blusher shall be applied to the bottom of the “apples”, towards the upper part of the ear, in a diagonal line.
Square face
For square faces, put the contour on the two sides of the forehead and on the two sides of the jawbone, softening the square look of the face. Put the highlighter in the middle of the forehead, on the chin and under the outer part of the eyes, and the blusher to the bottom of the “apples”.
Heart-shaped face
With heart-shaped faces, the contour shall shade the two sides of the forehead and of the cheekbones, so that these parts of the face do not look so wide. The highlighter should be put in the middle of the forehead, on the chin and the outer part of the eyes, and the blusher on the “apples”, slightly diagonally, stretching the face a bit.
Oblong face
For oblong faces our job is very easy. The dark color shall be put on the bottom part of the chin and by the line of the hair on the top of the forehead so that the face would look shorter. The blusher shall go on the “apples”, in a horizontal line, so that the cheeks would look wider.
Diamond-shaped face
With diamond-shaped faces, the most important thing is to shade the cheekbones with the contour, so the widest point of the face would look thinner. Put the highlighter in the middle of the forehead, on the chin and the outer part of the eyes - making these parts more attractive - and put the blusher under the cheekbones in order to decrease the attention towards the wide cheeks. 5
5. Applying the blushes according to the face shapes After familiarizing ourselves with the facial shapes and the shading methods, let's take a look at the most favorable blushing methods for the different face types. The correct application of the blusher is a very important step for the make-up as it provides a fresh look for the face and a really nice curve for the cheeks. Oval face: This facial shape is the ideal one, as the make-up does not need to be corrected. Blushing should start at the apples and go on the cheekbones to the direction of the temple. Put the blusher on the cheekbones with the bronzer below and the higlighter above it! Square face: Put the blusher on the “apples� in a round shape which optically softens the square face. The edges should be applied thoroughly to the outside, but shall not be pulled out too far horizontally, as it would make the face look wider. Oblong face: Long faces provide more area for the blusher. It is a good idea to start under the pupils and apply it to the middle of the face, in a half circle shape. This makes the face look shorter. Round face: Apply the blusher a bit down, moving towards the sides, as this will make the face look thiner. Make sure the blusher is not under the cheekbones. If it was applied in the center of the cheekbones in a circle shape, the roundness would be emphasized.
6
6. Preparing the skin of the face with PANDHY'S™ products Before you start using the machine properly, the first step should always be the preparation of the skin of the face, according to the skin type. The procedure is the following: Cleaning of the face (with more products, if needed), hydration of the skin of the face, skin care around the eyes. The next step is the use of the airbrush, which allows you to work with several colors, and you can also apply shadowing. The rule of not touching the face by hand during and after using the machine is really important. And you should always wait a few seconds (appr. one minute) after spraying, to let the skin dry. The suggested products to be used for the preparation shall be the following (according to the skin type)! Products for cleaning the face are suitable for make-up removal, but also suitable for cleaning of external polluting effects (e.g. dust, dirt).
1. PANDHY'S™ Micellar Water Excellent make-up remover and washing gel, primarily designed to remove greasy dirt.
2. PANDHY'S™ Purifying FoamPowder for normal and sensitive skin After cleaning, rinse the skin with plenty of water. In the morning the use of cold water and in the evening the use of hot water is recommended.
3. PANDHY'S™ SIGMA LINE - Body Wash Foam Excellent product to remove face paint and make-up! It even removes waterproof mascaras. At the end, rinse the foam with lukewarm water.
7
Hydration products – creams According to skin type, choose a cream which you will use for the hydration before preparing for the foundation! 1. PANDHY'S™ Hydro Base Hydrating Creme This cream is recommended for surface water deficient skin, it absorbs rapidly, has an intensive effect, and it is fragrances and paraben-free.
2. TD™ B 'Matt Line, for greasy and slightly problematic skin! Great care for the skin, mattifies, the effect is lasting all day.
3. TD™ Anti-Wrinkle Eye Contour Gel Absorbs quickly, oil and alcohol-free, excellent anti-wrinkle eye care product, recommended for all skin types.
TRUE DELIGHT™ PRODUCTS Beauty... Deep below the surface! For the preparation of the skin you may use True Delight™ products too, from the following range. 1. TD™ Hydro'Range Line a cream for the care of dry and damaged skin.
8
2. TD™ RoseAlien Cleansing Tonic - spray some tonic on a cotton wool pad and remove the make-up and any dirt from the face.
3. TD™ PlumPurity Skin Cleansing Gel recommended for all skin types, can be used around the eyes without any risk.
7. The PANDHY'S™ minAIRal mist on colours The specialty and novelty of PANDHY'S™ airbrush system lies in the materials used, that is, the paint composition and quality. PANDHY'S™ minAIRal mist on dyes are water-based formulations, in which the coloring materials are the well-known PANDHY'S™ mineral powders. These dyes contain no additives; they are oils, silicones, parabens and artificial fragrance-free. PANDHY'S™ pure mineral powders are mixed in a special apple water; it lands a pleasant natural scent to the product. The apple water – just like any other PANDHY'S™ fruit water – is obtained from the fruit by vacuum evaporation technology. This method leaves intact the valuable elements of the fruit, therefore the anti-oxidant, nourishing, hydrating, emollient, revitalizing and toning effect will apply, which also contributes to the perfect and natural make-up. Mist on dyes are available in 15 ml self-dropper vials, foundations and blushers of different shades and tones make up the assortment
9
8. The use of PANDHY'S™ powdAIR jet Airbrush Compressor After the proper preparation of the skin of the face, you may start using the machine. The Airbrush machine needs 220 volts; it is quick and easy to use, after a little practice it can be used routinely and quickly. Practice is needed for the correct measurement of the distance between the spray gun and the facial skin, and for detecting the right amount (drops) of foundation. The use of the machine is recommended for all skin types, and the client may even use it at home – after reading the instructions and learning how to use it. Practical advices: - The ideal amount of foundation for one person is 7-8 drops - Any skin color can be produced out of the 6 foundation colors (basic shades), according to the European people's basic skin tone (which is light and a bit yellowish) - There's no need to apply too much foundation as even one layer can provide a perfect cover - Wait after each spraying, until the foundation gets dry, do not touch the skin with your hands, otherwise it will get stained! - The basic colors can be mixed together, depending on the number of the drops (e.g. 2 drops of lighter and 6 drops of slightly yellowish basic color mixed in the machine's dispenser) - When you want to do the shadowing, first apply the lightest color and then the darkest color (the best color is 2-3 shades darker than the natural color of the skin) – this will make the face look thiner and the bones will be highlighted, according to the actual trend; finally, apply the foundation on the borders too, with the same color as the natural color of the skin, this way the result will be a natural and totally homogeneous! - When the applied foundation gets dry, you may put some powder on it, however, it is not necessary, and when it gets totally dry, you may apply the blusher as well, with the airbrush machine, or you can use a brush. The techniques can be combined, but only when all of the layers got totally dry! - It's also possible to shape the eyebrows with airbrush, there are templates available for this. It is an important rule that if you use the machine only for dying the eyebrows, then no brush or other tool shall touch the area as it may become stained! When dying the eyebrow, you shall use brown colors and powders as well!
10
9. The structure of the PANDHY'S™ powdAIR jet Airbrush Compressor and spray gun The structure and usage of the Airbrush equipment The machine consists of a module, a feeder head and a corresponding outlet. After the machine is powered on and still empty, check if it works – pull the small lever backwards, and you will hear as the valve sucks the air. Dispense the foundation (drops) and apply it evenly by pulling the lever backwards and setting the level on the module. The distance between the machine and the face shall be 15-20 cm, and the foundation may be applied in one or more layers, but make sure to wait enough time for the drying! The time needed for applying the foundation is only 1 or 2 minutes, so it is pretty quick! The feeding speed of the foundation can be changed, even during operation, by touching the button on the module. The machine also responds to subtle touch, it is not needed to press hard. A longer press is required only when switched off. Operating the machine is simple, and a red light indicates that the machine is powered on and can be used. The vertical lighting, which is a shorter or longer blue light, indicates the speed level of the machine. The use of a more powerful speed setting is recommended when applying the foundation. After applying the foundation, the maintenance and the proper hygienic cleaning of the machine is very important; disinfectants and machine cleaning products can be used for this reason (the same that we use for the maintenance of our cosmetic machines), and ethyl alcohol or benzine could also be used, same what we use for the cleaning of other make-up tools! (These can be purchased at pharmacies or beauty specialist shops). The dispensing head of the Airbrush machine:
The required amount of foundation (7-8 drops) shall be put into the dispenser shown above There are several types of nozzles – some of them can be taken apart, consists of several parts, and there are modules that are joined together! For one machine, several modules can be used, and it can be interchangeable as well. The different nozzles can do different strength and speed settings. The simple heads may be given to the clients for home treatments. The multi-pronged, stronger ability nozzles are recommended only for professionals.
The cleaning of the machine is mandatory each time after using it, and after each client, preferably immediately after use. Do not wait until the paint dries or hardens, because it will make maintenance much harder! As airbrush technique is a perfectly sterile and clean procedure, it is very important to clean the machine thoroughly – to provide full guarantee for a perfectly hygienic 11 treatment for our guests!
10. Maintenance of PANDHY'S™ powdAIR jet Airbrush spray gun and compressor As mentioned before, the cleaning of the machine is very important after you have finished using the airbrush. The procedure is the following! ź Try to use up maximally the material put into the machine (foundation, shading colors, blusher
etc.) ź You can also put a white sheet of paper or cleanex in front of the spray gun and spray out the
remaining colors from the machine, as long as it colors the white paper! ź Pour some disinfectant (ethyl alcohol) into the dispensing head and wait a few minutes. ź Switch on the machine and spray the cleaning liquid through, while putting the machine in ź ź
ź ź
operational mode for a short time (30 seconds). Pour out the remaining disinfectant from the machine and wipe it out Don't wait long with the cleaning, carry it out immediately after using the machine, because if the foundation dries, the maintenance of the machine will be much harder and may clog the nozzle, which may block the machine as well. The disinfection shall be carried out after each client! Before every use, check and make sure that the machine is clean and working!
11. Using the stencils After learning how to use the airbrush machine, experienced professionals may use the airbrush not only for applying foundation, correction, contouring and blush, but also for shaping the eyebrow. There are stencils to facilitate this task, but make sure you choose the type according to the client's preference and the one best suited to her face shape. The eyebrow color can be mixed and sprayed with the machine. Or you can apply a powder form of it with a brush, onto the area inside the stencils.
12
13