Islands

Page 37

Brač

Vitalac In a number of distinctive recipes from Brač (like the famed “hrapaćuša” torte, the name suggesting its rough and craggy exterior) an indigenous food that is particularly well known is “vitalac”, which is made from the offal of lambs or kids that have not yet eaten grass. They are roasted over a slow fire on a slender spit for about three quarters of an hour, and afterwards wrapped up in the peritoneum, which, crispy after additional roasting, gives the food its characteristically bitter-sweet flavour.

called the Three Sisters. In Bobovišća he met a shepherd called Loda, from whom he got the inspiration for his classic novel. The old Bobovišća village nestled in on the sunward side over the sea, with the Church of St George, put up in the early 20th century (though with parts that are older, from the 17th). A major feature of the cemetery is the neo-Classicist mausoleum of the Gligo family (1898). Above the village is the Early Croatian Chapel of St Martin, with a Gothic bellcote, and a stone Renaissance relief of St Martin on the altar, in which echoes of the style of Niccolò di Giovanni can be seen. In the Split strait or channel, in the middle of the sea that between Brač and Šolta and Čiovo has the character of a lake, is the island of Mrduja, with a fortified Renaissance-Baroque chapel (including a trace of Early Christianity), which features in many a humorous tale abut people from Brač and Šolta. 35


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