thursday, february 9, 2012
u o y did us? miss
The w o r t fron
i am harald glĂśĂśckler
prince of fashion
into the hearts (& voicemails) of the chic clique!
Unbound While readers take Hearst magazines everywhere, we continue to take them further. Imagining inspired ways to deliver the trusted brands readers can’t live without. As the world’s largest magazine publisher—and with more fashion customers—we believe in magazine print today and its many expressions tomorrow.
*Fall 2011 MRI / U.S. Market **Spring 2011 MRI / U.S. Market
But thinking big is not just about reaching an audience of over 82 million.* Or about driving over $40 billion in sales of fashion and accessories.** It’s about an entrepreneurial spirit that is reimagining print while boldly looking beyond it—to mobile, online, tablets, new e-commerce businesses and more. And about challenging every notion of what a magazine company can be—befitting our leadership role as champion of magazines’ bright future.
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Are you getting it Daily? FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
1. How long did Bill Gaytten work for Galliano? A. Six months B. 12 years C. 23 years D. Minutes, really 2. Phoebe Philo’s husband, the gallery owner Max Wigram, is cultishly known for... A. His intimate friendship with Samuel Benchetrit B. His days as a Bruce Weber model C. Making a mean grilled cheese D. His inspired idea for the Paddington bag 3. How did InStyle’s Samira Nasr spend January? A. Shooting the April and May fashion wells B. Climbing the “O” at Torres del Paine National Park C. Escorting Cameron Diaz to the couture collections D. Hanging in Bellport with Ariel 4. What was The Daily doing in Germany? A. Rocking BFW with three mega-packed issues B. Going a bit more high-concept C. Discovering beer! (We were once strictly rosé.) D. Cavorting with teddy bears at the Brandenburg Gate 5. Why aren’t we hearing any gossip about Carol Smith at Harper’s Bazaar? A. She’s famously tight-lipped. B. Nobody cares about publishers. C. She’s selling so many ads, everyone’s speechless. D. Glenda ain’t talkin’. 6. Who had the idea to tap Aliona to edit Russian Interview? A. Bernd Runge B. Anna Wintour C. Naomi Campbell D. Jonathan Newhouse 7. Mario Boselli has offered to personally… A. Spend Labor Day in Marc Jacobs’ studio, finishing the collection B. Take Diane to dinner C. Convince Miuccia to show last! D. Firm up the fashion cal so this never happens again
D. Two words: fragrance deal 10. Is Style.com the Magazine coming back? A. Sometime this spring B. As an app on Style.com. C. TODAY, in Chic Shallot! D. Hey! I ordered a subscription, but my issue never came! 11. What do editors and publishers have in common? A. Frequent trips to Milan B. Frequent budget meetings C. Stefano Tonchi D. All of the above! 12. What do Alex Gonzalez and Raul Martinez not talk about at the offices of A/R New York? A. September covers B. Steven Meisel’s day rate C. Anything red carpet D. David Lipman’s Town & Country 13. Who isn’t Anna thinking about? A. Stefano Tonchi B. Roger Federer C. Filipa Fino D. Steven Newhouse
Welcome to cheeky week!
14. When did Brandon Holley hire her new number two, Deb Schwartz? A. After a long lunch at Michael’s B. After a recommendation from Kim France C. After a phone interview D. After Adam Rapoport served orange juice, thus signaling that all dinner guests should go home! 15. What is Michael Steele agonizing over? A. Kim Kardashian’s PR crisis B. The “Loose Talk” section of his FOB C. The fate of Speidi D. “Fashion Police: too mean?” 16. Is Graydon still smoking? A. Yes B. Only at parties C. Only cloves D. “The official answer is no.”
8. Why is Jane Bruton featured in our Media Issue (debuting Saturday, cheris)? A. We want to make up for publishing a Daily in Berlin when Grazia wanted to do one. B. We’re crazy about her magazine. C. We’re really sorry about all the blind items! D. We’re looking for intel on Pippa. 9. Why was Liliane Bettencourt at Armani Privé? A. She needed some gratis clothes now that she’s given away her fortune to that society photog. B. She and Giorgio go way back. C. She’s desperate for a new look.
17. What’s new with Richie Rich? A. A VH1 reality show B. Heatherette’s launch in Japan C. He’s off the sauce! D. A beauty line 18. Which of the following is not a fashion brand? A. The Lake and Stars B. Creatures of the Wind C. The Sea and Cake D. Mother of Pearl
ANSWERS: 1) C, 2) B, 3) C, 4) All of the above, 5) C, 6) C, 7) D, 8) B, 9) B, 10) A & C, 11) D, 12) C, 13) C, 14) C 15) B, 16) D, 17) A, 18) C
IF YOU SCORED 1–7, YOU’RE THE DAILY BERLIN! You’re just a bébé, you first-season darling, but you’ve learned so much, so fast! No wonder the crowds in the Tents are intrigued. Your cheeky-chic esprit will take you far!
IF YOU SCORED 8–15, YOU’RE THE DAILY DAN! You’ve spent too much time in the Hamptons, angel. Beautifully sun-soaked and dripping with rosé, you’re a bit checked-out from reality. And Memorial Day is still months away! Time to download our archives...
IF YOU SCORED 15-20, YOU’RE THE DAILY FRONT ROW! The glorious original! (Can you believe you’ll be 10 next year?) You’re so insider, you’re practically inverted. Your ability to obsess is boundless. But best of all, you’re still utterly and hopelessly in love with Fashion Week.
O N t H E C O v E R : F R I D A G U S tAv S S O N I N J E A N - PA U L G A U Lt I E R S P R I N G 2 0 1 2 H A U t E C O U t U R E ; G R E G K E S S L E R ( M O D E L ) ; A N D R E A S R E N t z ( GLööCKLER) . t H I S PA G E : G R E G K E S S L E R ( 2 ) ; G I O R G I O N I R O ( 1 )
Bonjour, Darlings! Your dear Daily has gone global! Since we saw you in September, we’ve conquered the hearts of legions of chicsters in Berlin and Milan—not all of whom were human!—and our séjours in Europe are only getting started. You can’t blame us for jumping with joie. More fash-fixated than even you thought possible, this season is (dare we say it?) our best ever. We’ve rolled out our pink carpet (red is so passé according to new obsession Lori Goldstein!), located the real Prince of Fashion (just above the Brandenburg Gate), gone home with Grace’s longtime love (!!!), and even toyed around with the Hollywood thing! Graydon, consider it an homage. Trust us when we say that the minute you encounter our hysterical Media Issue, your world will be rocked. As the visionary Abba once crooned, “You’re a teaser, you turn ‘em on, leave them burning, and then, you’re gone.” Until the Principe!
Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO Executive Editor Ashley Baker Art Director Guillaume Bruneau Managing Editor Tangie Silva Senior Editor Eddie Roche Associate Editors Alexandra Ilyashov, Maria Denardo Photographer Giorgio Niro Deputy Art Director Teresa Shaughnessy Senior Designer Sheila Prevost Photo Director Rick Boeth Photo Editor Shane Cisneros Prod./Creative Services Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialists George Maier Patrick Rumore Copy Editors Stefanie Schwalb, Marissa DeAngelis Researcher Aleksandra Hogendo Interns Florina Alexander, Zipporah Burman, Stefania Curto, Kory Drahos, Sandi-Kaye Henry, Megan Herlihy, Elizabeth Landers, Monica Perez, Sydney Sadick Vice President, Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Publishing Consultants Cindy Lewis, Renee Moskowitz Account Executive Darcie Vukovich Digital Strategist Angela Gilltrap Marketing Director Fred Miketa Digital Manager Daniel Chivu Publishing Assistant Anjali Raja Distribution Manager El Kazan To advertise, contact: Louis Sarmiento, (212) 467-5875, email@example.com
DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row, Inc. publication. Copyright 2012©. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva,135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020. Printed by Vanguard Printing, LLC., William Sherman. Distributed by Lightspeed Express, Jack Lynch. s t a f f : g i o r g i o n i r o , d a i ly r e a d e r s : g e t t y ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ; a d a m r o d r i g u e z
Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. © 2012 Maybelline LLC.
DIM SUM TO DISC USS: THE This Chinese- RED EGG is h resto/club Centre Str at 202 parties for—eet is hosting the afterar e yo u ready?—R Chai, Altuza ichar Hourani, alo rra, Phillip Lim, and Radd n g w it h u nrelated bas for Kid Cudi hes and Tu Moo Shoo p mblr. Order us the ork pancake s…
Rose McGowan at Ruffian
Stacy Keibler at...everything
Liev Schreiber at Imitation
THINGS TO DISCUSS!
your daily dose Kelly Osbourne at Charlotte Ronson
SCENE First things first: the intrigue.
Chloë Sevigny at Imitation
Camila Alves and Susan Sarandon at Lela Rose
☛ Is Vena Cava really moving to LA? ☛ Why has GQ postponed its best menswear designers party, “new date TBD?” ☛ Will Gwen Stefani make it to L.A.M.B.? As of press time, the PR confessed: “We are still waiting to hear whether or not Gwen is attending.” ☛ Does Rachel Zoe really need a runway show? ☛ Why did Tommy Hilfiger move his women’s show to the Park Avenue Armory (i.e., Oscar’s venue!)? ☛ And! Why is Oscar showing in the same building as Michael Kors HQ?
Things to discuss! Kate Mara at Tracy Reese
Mark Wahlberg at Ruffian
Shailene Woodley at Honor
CELEBS TO OGLE!
1. Sally Singer & David Byrne 2. The EICs who will score a seat next to Stacy Keibler (Our $$’s on Cindi!) 3. The door situation at Le Baron 4. Conspicuously absent en runway: Luca Luca, Isaac Mizrahi, Chado Ralph Rucci, Vena Cava, Adam Lippes 5. Lana Del Ray’s upper lip
Retouched By an ANGEL!
Anton Yelchin at Y-3 Hannah Ware at Yigal Azrouël
A 28-year-old former unpaid intern at Harper’s Bazaar is suing Hearst for back wages (minimum!) for the 40-55 hours a week she worked gratis. Glenn O’Brien: I had nothing to do with it! John Demsey: Everyone’s gotta start somewhere. Obviously, the girl is getting a lot of press out of this. But we always pay our interns! Flora Gill, Ohne Titel: I think internships are necessary, and every single internship I did came back to me threefold later. Working with Karl Lagerfeld, and later having my own line, resulted from having unpaid internships at one point. What goes around comes around! Patti Wilson: I have interns, but I feel so bad about having them. I’m always like, ‘What do you want to eat?’ I throw them money here and there. I always give them the option to not do the internship. I tell them they will learn something, sure, but I don’t know if it will be a lot. Lynn Yaeger: I spent many years as the head of the union at The Village Voice, so I say, more power to her! It’s totally illegal and wrong. When I first started out in the industry, I was just terrible. I always got fired! I had a bad attitude, and I basically sucked. I was practically unemployable. Valerie Steele: It’s not just the fashion industry. Everybody relies on interns in so many fields. Really, it’s a problem. My son was interning a year ago, and now I’m so glad he’s got a paying job. But…when I’m hiring interns, I realize how important—and helpful—it is to know that someone can do what you need them to do because of their internship experiences. Hal Rubenstein: If you know you’re not getting paid, you’re not getting paid! But we’re really nice to our interns.
BACK BY POPULI DEMAND! What if Glenda Bailey and Anna Wintour switched signature coifs?
Shia LaBeouf at Y-3
HRH Princess Madeleine of Sweden at Ruffian
Christina Ricci and Patti Smith at Degen
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
G E T T Y ( 9 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 8 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 5 ) ; S H U T T E R S TO C K
Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too. Belvedere Vodka 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) 100% neutral spirits distilled from rye grain. ©2012 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY.
N AT U R A L LY S M O O T H M A K E I T B E LV E D E R E
F A C E B O O K . C O M / B E LV E D E R E VO D K A
DOWNLOAD THE GLAMOUR FRIENDS & FANS APP FOR FREE AT THE APP STORE OR ANDROID MARKET AND SHOP THE GLAMOUR TAXI SHOPS DURING FASHION WEEK. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER AT #GLAMTAXIS.
look! Zang’s Front roW
Deepak chopra to the rescue! kirstie alley
Prepare to dodge the reality show cameras....
ramona singer, on the scene
your daily dose luann de lesseps & sonja morgan
Jamie hince & alison mosshart
HINCE HIGH ALERT!
Cindy’s seCret: Party Prepped skin it’s Fashion Week! no doubt you will be dashing from one post-show party to the next so Cindy Crawford is giving you her insider beauty secrets for getting perfectly-prepped skin. try all of these essential Meaningful Beauty skincare products to keep you looking and feeling your best. Wrinkle Smoothing Capsules: Use as your primer before applying your makeup for a flawless complexion. Each single dose capsule is filled with powerful antioxidants designed to help make your skin look smoother, firmer, and more plump. Glowing Serum: Cindy’s anti-aging guru, Dr. Jean-Louis Sebagh calls this his “model’s secret.” This serum can be your secret to a luminous, glowing complexion. Use anytime for an instant pick-me-up. Firming Serum: This powerful anti-aging weapon is designed to help retain moisture while helping to improve the skin’s overall tone and firmness. Crème de Serum: Combining the power of a serum with the rich, moisturizing effects of a crème, this super-boost is designed to help increase hydration and help reduce the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Find out more at trynewmb.com
The Kills will perform at Lovecat Mag’s (?) 10th anniversary at Dream Downtown on Saturday, 2/11. Miss Moss at NYFW? Be still your hearts!
We rarely endorse full-throttle imbibing during the workiest week of the year but mon dieu, Le Baron is finally in town. With three stories awash in Bordello red, and even its very own crawl space, this Chinatown destination (“Mulberry and Mosco, please, driver”) is bound and determined to ruin you for those 9 a.m. shows, just as it did in Paris. (But you still made it to Akris, ‘member?) How to get in? Befriending André Saraiva, or his girlfriend Annabelle Dexter-Jones s the best option—or tag along with Alexander Wang, ScarJo, Michael Pitt, and anyone who works at Interview.
THINGS TO DISCUSS:
We need a mantra! ‘I am ignorant to criticism, I am beneath no one, and I am fearless.’ any other tips? Observe the breath and the sensations in the body that come with it. Smile all over inside the body before responding to anything. anything else? Watch a five-minute comedy video on YouTube, pet your dogs, sing to yourself, listen to music, get a massage, or have sex.
george & hilly revisiteD
george gurley’s genius new memoir, George & Hilly: The Anatomy of a Relationship ($15, simon & schuster) has arrived! the story memorializes six years of couples’ therapy with one Dr. selman, and if the american public knows anything about quality entertainment, it’s bound for the best-seller list. We cornered george, blissful after asking for hilly’s hand in marriage—again—after his book party at Doubles. how long did this take you? Since Hilly and I began dating 10 years ago. Our first couples therapy column in the Observer came out late summer of 2005 and another 50 ran in the next three years. It took two years to write the book, which is all new material. no one’s reviewed it? Actually there was one in Kirkus, maybe 200 words and very positive—a ‘strange’ and ‘at times amusing’ memoir that may offend some readers. Frank DiGiacomo called it ‘hilarious and hair raising’ in the Daily News. I’m confident that’s no exaggeration. Others noted its ‘perfect’ tone. Also true. What was Dr. selman’s reaction? Pleased—in fact, he made a comparison to Henry Miller. He may have been referring to Miller’s ‘lost’ autobiographical novel, Crazy Cock, which chronicled his descent into madness after his beloved wife, Hildred, hooks up with a lesbian lover. strangest reaction so far? Hilly’s mom cried. Marthann likes to think her daughter’s still a virgin and had no idea she was sneaking out past curfew in high school, swigging cherry vodka in the back of cars, screaming out Violent Femmes lyrics, and making out with bad boys from Miami University. She was also upset to learn that during her first years in New York, Hilly pursued a bartender at 7B who had a
spanking fetish, and that she dated a member of a band called Spacehog. It’s all in the book. have you returned to Debtor’s anonymous? No. The one I’m flirting with is Messies Anonymous, not to be confused with Clutterer’s Anonymous. For the right price Hilly and I would consider immersing ourselves in all the 12 Step programs. George & Hilly: A Year of Sobriety. I’m serious, though. can you say with absolute certainty that you’ll never again dress up in clown costume on assignment for The Daily? Never say never! I’m on good terms with everyone at my current home away from home, The Electric Room— Nur, Angelo, Megan, Todd. They know to ban me if I every get carried away, insubordinate, or smuggle in airplane bottles of Johnnie Walker Red. if george & hilly ends up on tv, what’s the cast? I’ve heard everyone from John Cusack to Jason Segal to Richard Kind to Charlie Sheen. My brother Jack [Bryan] once said I look like what would happen if Bill Murray and Quentin Tarantino had a baby. Hilly wants Joseph Gordon-Levitt to play me, and she thinks Christine Taylor or Janice from The Muppet Show should play her. b Fa n yc . c o m ( 6 ) ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n ( 4 ) ; g e t t y ( 2 ) . book cover: courtesy simon & schuster
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FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2009
RUNWAY MOMENT, PART ONE! Bibhu Mohapatra is showing at the Tents! Welcome to the runway! Thanks! It’s like planning a wedding. What’s the inspiration? An old opera, The WhiteHaired Girl, set in twenties China. Who’s your favorite white-haired girl? Kristen McMenamy. What’s your dream stage name? I’d love to be called The Craftsman. Have you perfected your runway wave? I thought about it and said, ‘OK, Bibhu—how vain can you be!’ Betsey cartwheels... I don’t think my investors would want me to do that!
RUNWAY MOMENT, PART TWO! Joseph Abboud is back on the runway after a seven-year hiatus! Meet creative director Bernardo Rojo. When did you land at Abboud? In 2005. It was a great brand, but the product wasn’t where it deserved to be. Now, little by little, we are turning a big ship! Are you still hitting the gym every day? Do I look like I do? Do I have time? My Pilates instructor is going to kill me! Any other hobbies? Polishing my shoes.
your daily dose RAG & BONE GOES WAY DIGITAL! Marcus Wainwright and David Neville have a new trick up their sleeves. The designers have created a case for Samsung’s Galaxy Note (the device is in stores February 19!), a new smartphone available exclusively at AT&T that is proving to be the ultimate design tool. The Daily checks in!
YOU REACT TO TIM GUNN’S
29 YEARS OF CELIBACY! Linda Fargo: He has to shake it loose somewhere one night to find love—somewhere he’ll be seen, somewhere Page Six will be. Like the Louboutin’s 20th anniversary party at Bergdorf Goodman! Glenn O’Brien: If you’re celibate for that long, you must like it! He could probably get some kind of deal with the pope. Anne Slowey: It seems like he’s been focusing on his career. As we all know, sex can affect one’s profession, sometimes as a detriment.
Michelle Smith, Milly: Hey, whatever floats your boat! Stephen Gan: He should let his creative juices flow more. Mary Alice Stephenson: I’d put Tim on Nerve.com, and get a little kinky with it. We can’t do it in any way except full-on. Unbutton the shirt, loosen the tie, give him contacts and lose the…well, we still keep him in a suit, but maybe it’s Michael Bastian. Or Thom Browne, for a more bootylicious pant. But actually, I think Tim needs to have sex because it will make him better at his job. You can’t tell women what to wear if you’re not enjoying some sex. I’d be happy to walk Tim through this! Mickey Boardman: I would like him to come over with a bottle of Chianti. We’ll watch Downton Abbey and take care of that issue!
Tell us about your partnership with Samsung. David: They’ve been gracious enough to partner with us. We’re designing a men and a women’s case for the new Galaxy Note. It’s an interesting mix between a tablet and a phone. And you can actually draw on it! You can doctor images quite nicely, too. Over Christmas, I took photos of my son and drew holly leaves on them before sending them to my mom. Why did you get involved? D: We like the Samsung brand. We’ve travelled to Korea recently and we met the people who run the Samsung fashion division. Aesthetically, we liked the size of the Galaxy Note, and the way it was designed. You can still fit it in your pocket, and it’s a lot easier to browse the web. It has all the modern applications that you need. It’s pretty great—and it’s even better in a Rag & Bone cover. Marcus: I don’t really use a computer at home anymore—I use the tablet for my eBay problem! What do you buy on eBay? M: Cameras and watches, and a lot of stuff for the office like vintage bags and sterling silver. Pointless sh*t. What were your favorite gadgets as kids? M: I was more into trainers and hockey sticks. What were your first email addresses? M: My first one was a work e-mail, but my second was cooler. There used to be a service where you could choose the domain name. I quit my job, went to Mexico, and changed my e-mail address to Marcus@OnTheBeach.co.uk. D: Mine was something boring like ROJO: COURTESY JOSEPH ABBOUD; GETTY (7); COURTESY SAMSUNG (2); DavidNeville@Hotmail.co.uk. C O U R T E S Y M AY B E L L I N E N E W YO R k ( 2 ) ; PAT R I C k M C M U L L A N . C O M ; B FA N YC . C O M
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gobel-a-go-go When Marlon Gobel got the itch to start his own line, he went to DvF to ask her permission and to Sir Elton John for a letter of endorsement. He got both. Not bad for a youngster from Seattle named after the guy best known for crying “Stella!!!” BY EDDIE ROCHE. pHOtOGRapHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
How did you land the name Marlon? Brando! Keith Richards’ son is also named Marlon. My mother was close with Keith at the time I was born. How did she know Keith? It gets very intense, that story. Very, very intense. [long pause] She was involved in a weird scene there for a while. Alrighty! What did your parents do? My mother is a metaphysical scientist, and my dad published children’s books. They didn’t live together. I spent a lot of my childhood in Santa Fe with my mom, but I grew up in Seattle. In high school, I was class president and all that stuff. I had hippie parents. I didn’t take the SAT because they didn’t want me to judge myself by a number. What would you have scored? I would have done pretty well. My partner Jace is always giving me a hard time because I understand physics, science, and math so well. What did you do after high school? I wanted to go to school in London, not realizing I wouldn’t be able to afford it. I ended up leaving school because I couldn’t afford the tube and the food, and I didn’t have time to work. Where did you go to school in London? I downplay this, but Saint Martins. I didn’t graduate. I spent a whole month once cutting letters out of paper. I returned to Seattle and met the boys who started the Ace Hotel, who offered me a little retail space in their very first location. They wanted either a flower shop or a magazine store, so not being a florist, I did the flower shop. It was super minimal and stark and too advanced for Seattle. I was encouraged to go to New York to be around creative people. So, I packed up everything and moved! And? I did apprenticeships. I worked for a bunch of artists ranging from Matthew Barney to Anthony Goicolea. I put Anthony together with Thom Browne for a project, and Thom said he could use some employees who work hard for free. So I went to work for Thom in 2004 on Little West 12th Street. When you walked to work, it still smelled like blood. The transsexuals made fun of me for wearing a $7,000 suit with highwater pants. I thought, Now I’m living my fashion dream! We opened a store on Hudson, and I was director of operations. I loved what we were making, but I needed to know more. I need more in my closet than gray suits. I felt it was time to see what else was out there in menswear. Who helped you? Men’s Vogue. They knew me from Thom, who once introduced me to Anna Wintour as his Charles Fagan. I told Stephen Watson (former Men’s Vogue fashion director) that I was thinking of leaving Thom. He
brought up working with Tom Ford, but I wasn’t really interested. He said there was a new guy named Michael Bastian who was starting a line with Brunello Cucinelli that was very ‘retail.’ I started working with Michael for his line and then we got a deal with Bill Blass. We did two collections we never showed, and then Bill Blass collapsed. Then Gant called us. At the end of 2009, I was a little baked on the way back from Sweden on business and decided to start my own brand. I came home and asked the family’s permission. Meaning you asked Michael? No! My own family. Bosses come and go, but your parents and boyfriend are here to stay. Are you and Michael on good terms? It’s a very frenemy situation, always. I find it sad that everyone in fashion is so scared of each other. It’s like we’re back in middle school standing on the opposite sides of the dance floor. I have no bad blood with anybody, but it’s not like past employers or other designers are calling me to see if I want to go bike riding. So, after you left Michael... There was one more person whose permission I needed: Diane von Furstenberg. I humbly wrote her a note card, introduced myself, and explained that I was interested in being a menswear designer and that I’d like her permission. You can’t just barge into the party and not be invited. I was confident enough. I didn’t feel like I was some kid. Did you really think she would say no? There was a possibility. I went to her office and left the note with the receptionist at 11 a.m. At 3:30 p.m., I got an e-mail from DvF herself. She wanted to discuss the matter with me in person! I walked right up her magic staircase the next Thursday. Were you nervous? I wasn’t. I didn’t want any help from her. I just wanted her permission, like asking for someone’s hand in marriage. We sat on the sofa in her office and a magical person came out with milk, cookies, and tea. What kind of cookies? Fancy French ones. She was impressed that I ate them, and I drank my whole glass of milk. She asked me where I got my swatches and I said, ‘Oh you can go to Home Depot and get them for free.’ She said, ‘We pay a lot of money for those swatches!’ She liked my ingenuity. She said, ‘Marlon, you don’t want to do this, you have to do this. My only advice is go make the clothes. You have my blessing, but making the clothes is the hard part.’ She picked up the phone and called Steven Kolb and said, ‘We need to get a space for Marlon in the fashion calendar.’ She’s become your fairy godmother! I’ve e-mailed her since then on nights before shows, telling her that I’m totally scared. She’ll write back,
let go and enjoy. It’s almost hard to believe! She said that nobody had ever asked for permission. They just assumed that since they went to fashion school and are totally great and can sew, they should have a show and sell to stores. We don’t flaunt that she gives me this encouragement. She just sometimes gives me a reason to wake up. How are you funded? Savings from working. I made a pretty good living. My family helped out, too. I don’t have an assistant or a show producer. I got picked up by Bergdorf my very first season, and I still sell there. I’m thrilled. It’s the best department store in the world. Who was your champion at Bergdorf? Linda Fargo wrote me my letter of recommendation for the CFDA, which was really an honor because she first said no. But she thought about it overnight and changed her mind. My letters of recommendation
“I find it sad that everyone in fashion is so scared of each other. It’s like we’re back in middle school standing on the opposite sides of the dance floor.” were pretty spectacular. John Demsey and Mr. Elton John and David Furnish wrote the others. What did Elton write in his letter? [reads aloud] ‘We first met Marlon Gobel in 2007 when he was working for Thom Browne. It was always apparent that his strength as a designer and influence on American’s menswear even at that time meant he was destined to start his own label.... Not only is he talented, he remains humble and charming. He sets the standard very high and never disappoints. He has given us hope that he will be one designer who will start to replace many of the icons and friends we have lost in the fashion industry over the years....’ It’s pretty major! Were you disappointed that you didn’t get in? Of course. What does the good life mean to you? To get somebody, anybody, on the phone without going through six people. Oh, and taking a car service instead of a subway. Do you do that? Not yet.
one to watch
Three generations of chic: Lola with her grandmother Sonia and mother Nathalie
who the hell is
After 50 years in fashion, it’s safe to say Sonia Rykiel and her designer daughter Nathalie know their way around a sweater set. When it comes to getting the word out, however, sometimes youth trumps experience. Meet Lola Burstein Rykiel, the gorgeous 25-year-old daughter of Nathalie, poker buddy of Sonia, and newly installed director of U.S. PR operations. With moxie to spare, a designer’s eye for detail, and growing rep as one of Manhattan’s most eligible chicettes, the beloved Rykiel brand appears to be in good hands. The Daily popped by her Chelsea aerie just to make sure… BY MARIA DENARDO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Wow. Your apartment has quite a view, Lola! They film Top Chef in that building over there. They’re always cooking lasagna or something. Luckily, they never see me watching them. It’s like Rear Window, except my legs aren’t broken. Do you read a lot of décor mags? Architectural Digest, Elle Décor, and Marie Claire Maison. Today, we’re more concerned with spending money on clothes than our homes, but it’s important to have a home that reflects your style. How would you describe your apartment? I’ve always loved women such as Brigitte Bardot, Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth, Elizabeth Taylor, and my grandmother, so my home is very feminine and cozy. It’s all about women. Those women really sell a dream. There’s no one like them. I love warm colors—nothing aggressive that would cause a headache when you wake up. I’m not an old lady with porcelain cats yet. What’s your Paris flat like? It’s older and smaller. I actually painted it myself, pink and red lacquer. My bathroom is the exact same shade of red as a Christian Louboutin sole. Does your grandmother give you decorating tips? She has an amazing home on the top floor of an old building in Paris, but everything is black—the carpets, the furniture, the walls. When I was a little girl, I used to ask, ‘Why is it so black in your place, mémé?’ She would say, ‘It’s not black. It’s navy, Lola.’ It was such a lie! She has a lot of beautiful sculptures and huge paintings by artists such as Andy Warhol that bring out the color, though. What’s the priciest item in the house? My mustard velvet sofa. It was about $3,000. Do you entertain often? Only small-time parties. I like to gather my friends,
Sonia Rykiel Spring 2012
but I’m not much of a party girl. How French are you? Supposedly 50 percent, since my dad is English, but I’d say it’s more like 90 percent. What’s the most French thing about you? I’m super romantic. I’d rather have something exactly the way I want it than have something that’s only half of what I want. Some people might call it pickiness, but I’m just ambitious. My expectations are high. What’s your favorite French word? Lucide. What’s the most American thing about you? My love of Starbucks coffee. In Paris, it’s disgusting! They don’t understand what you’re asking for, it doesn’t taste good, and it’s, like, four euros! I have it every day here. I like a plain cappuccino. What’s the most Rykiel thing about you? We’re all interested in clothes and style, but also all forms of art. Growing up, it was more important to go to exhibitions and read books and go to the theater than to be up-to-date on collections or what was happening on the runway. And we all love dark chocolate. How often do you wear Rykiel? Every day, but not because I have to. I like to feel her name on my back—it’s protection. I’m alone in New York, so it’s a way to carry my family with me. Who has the most clothes in your family? My grandmother. She has a room of shoes, and she’ll have the same black crepe dress tailor-made in quantities of 50. The next season, she’ll change it up, but she likes wearing a uniform. My mother has the best range in her closet from archival Rykiel to the latest glittery Pradas. What other brands do you wear? For jewelry, I love Eddie Borgo, Pamela Love, and Sara Beltran. For clothes, Lanvin is very sexy and romantic. Alber Elbaz brings a real sweetness and character to the brand. You can tell he’s so intelligent and kind. My grandmother is the same, so I relate to this kind of person. Miu Miu is great, too. Ralph Lauren is wonderful because he sells the American dream. He just opened up a boutique in Paris where he serves meat from his ranch in Colorado! I like Alexander Wang as well. It’s streetwear without looking like Sporty Spice. When did you realize your gram was famous? Always. I used to model for the children’s line when I was little. I didn’t always know I wanted to go into the business, though. At first, I wanted to be a dancer, which I loved, but what I loved the most was the outfits. After dance, I just felt that it was the right moment to join my family and be a part of this. What’s one of your favorite memories? I loved visiting my grandmother in her country house in France. We would do all sorts of bad things when I was growing up. She taught me how to play poker. I was always teaming up with her against everyone else. We were the best because we’re good liars. But if we played against each other, she would win. Do you encounter Rykiel superfans? When I was applying for a visa to go to New York, the officer was like, ‘I love your grandmother! I love what she does. You’re going to be amazing. Continue this beautiful story.’ c o u R T e S Y L o L A R Y k i e L ( 3) ; F i R S T v i e W ( 3) ; g e T T Y
The Rykiels in Paris
A young Lola on the Rykiel runway
one to watch
Parisian chicsters and those pining for sartorial je ne sais quoi have found that sweet spot via sister stores, Sandro and Maje, founded and run by actual soeurs. The stylish duds, backed by LVMH’s majority stake in parent company SMCP since 2010, landed in New York this fall. Frédéric Biousse, CEO of SMCP, explains the phenom. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV
Maje Spring 2012
When were Sandro and Maje born? The brands were started by two sisters: Evelyne Chétrite for Sandro in 1983, and Judith Milgrom for Maje in 1998. They’ve had two lives. Initially, both brands Frédéric Biousse focused on dresses and blouses, and business was driven mainly by wholesale. In the early 2000s, Maje opened stores and rolled out additional locations in France and then throughout Europe. Sandro and Maje bring the best of French luxury and of mass market retailers such as Zara and H&M. We invest in systems—logistics, planning, fast design with quick delivery times every four to eight weeks—as much as they do! When did you arrive on the Sandro scene? In 2007, after developing Comptoir des Cotonniers, which was sold to Uniqlo group. The business model completely changed—inventory management, window displays, the look of the stores, fit of the clothes, the communications strategy, the sales staffs, everything—in three months. Sandro became number one in French department stores, generating enough cash to fund further rollout. We just kept opening, opening, opening! How’s it going in the U.S.? The first sales that we’ve seen since we opened are extremely promising. We arrived in Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street and Soho in September. Two months later, Maje opened on Spring Street, along with three stores next door to each other on Bleecker Street shortly after— Sandro men, Sandro women, and Maje. We’ll be opening two stores, Sandro and Maje, in Nolita in early March. Why New York, and why now? It’s the most European city in the States. If you want to succeed anywhere in the world, you need to succeed in New York. Why the West Village and Soho for your first NYC outposts? We focused on places in coherence with our brands. Also, when Sandro’s founder, Evelyne, was on vacation at a fancy hotel in Morocco and met Sarah Jessica Parker by the pool, Sarah Jessica said, ‘When Sandro comes to New York, you have to open on Bleecker Street first.’
What’s the biggest surprise about the American customer? Shoppers in New York crave fashionable, sophisticated, expensive products—and need them now. We introduced very nice furs at Maje on the same day in Paris and New York, and we sold out in one day in New York. It took us seven days to move exactly the same product in Paris! Once we’d replenished stock, Paris kept selling that fur—more slowly but for longer than the rush in New York, where competition is fierce. Americans consume more than Europeans, and there’s more pressure to jump from one brand to another in a place like New York—whereas attention is held longer and loyalty is higher in Europe. What’s SMCP’s spread like today? Sandro has grown from seven stores in 2007 to 233 locations today —with profits jumping from $10 million to $200 million, respectively. We did the same for Maje, replicating the Sandro process one year later. The group today does $400 million in sales, including a third brand, Claudie Pierlot, which is not yet shown in the States. We have 480 stores globally—200 in France and an additional 140 locations in Europe. The rest are mainly in South Korea, and now also in the States. Who is the Sandro woman? They’re mostly urban ladies, rather thin, who take care of themselves, Evelyne Chétrite do sports, eat well, and have a little money, ranging from 15 to 50 years old. They’re educated in fashion, but want to mix Sandro with Prada. What contemporary brand is closest to Sandro and Maje, and why? Alice + Olivia—because of their price points, product styles, and rollout speed. What’s the story behind the brands’ names? Evelyne’s friend’s son was named Sandro, and Maje stands for the family members’ initials. Any plans for diffusion lines? When you buy the second line, it’s because you could not afford the first line. It’s not nice to the customer. If you want to buy Sandro, buy it and get the best out of it. But we are working to add slightly lower-priced items to the main line so Sandro Spring 2012 more people can access the line!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M PortrAitS: riCArdo lABoUglE (MilgroM); g i o r g i o N i r o ( B i o U S S E ) ; A l E x A N d r E tA B A S t E (CHétritE); CoUrtESY MAJE/SANdro
WORLD’S FIRST LOW CALORIE VODKAS
one to watch
Levi’s spring 2012
levi’s hit MAChiNe
How many creative directors earned their very own Grammy and kicked it with The Rolling Stones? Len Peltier, for one. Five years ago, Levi’s VP of creative direction decamped from the music biz to helm the iconic American lifestyle brand, and February 15 marks its inaugural stroll down the catwalk. Can’t wait for the playlist! BY MARIA DENARDO
seVen tHinGs to KnoW about Len! 1. I’m the dunce at the end of Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit” video. 2. Several years ago, I broke my neck and spent six months in a halo brace. 3. Wearing it, I went white water rafting. 4. As a kid, I wore husky jeans. 5. I went to the Afar region of Ethiopia two years in a row to shoot a documentary about water issues. 6. I’m trying to be a weekday vegan. 7. I hate questionnaires!
How did you win a Grammy? I started my career in advertising as the associate creative director of A&M Records, then I ended up at Virgin Records as creative director for 10 years. I was nominated twice for a Grammy and won once for a Suzanne Vega album package. At 26 years old, I was working with everyone from Lenny Kravitz to Janet Jackson and The Rolling Stones. I directed commercials as well, and I eventually left to pursue that full-time. How did you land at Levi’s? I got a call from a friend of mine at Levi’s to see if I’d like to freelance. I’ve always been a Levi’s fan and worn 501s since I can remember. I was obsessed with the Levi’s commercials. As a commercial director, it was the ultimate get. Levi’s is one of those rare brands where you can do fashion, film, and music within one company. What do Virgin Records and Levi’s have in common? Imaging a product or brand and keeping it on target is almost identical to guiding the career and image of an artist! How has the Levi’s aesthetic developed under your leadership? It’s a broad, democratic brand, so the trick is to find a way to fit everything under an umbrella without watering anything down. Everything should be consistent, from our work wear to our more fashion pieces.
Levi’s Fall 2012 inspiration
Why has the brand never shown its core collection at Fashion Week? In 2007, we showed a capsule collection with Damien Hirst. But this is our first cohesive global line we’re putting out in the Go Forth initiative, so we thought it was an appropriate time. We’ll have an open house, a runway show, and a gallerylike setting to display installation-based stories about our product. What’s the new direction of Levi’s? There’s a shift towards a more refined, dressed-up aesthetic that’s more tailored for men and feminine for women. It’s definitely not the grungy denim look that people might expect. For women, we’re offering dresses and a skinny bootcut in the Curve ID line. For men, there’s a lot of color in nondenim. We’re also re-launching STA-Prest, a line we created in the sixties, and deepening our Commuter series by mixing sportswear and heritage for a more fashion-forward look. What’s your greatest achievement at Levi’s so far? Launching our global campaign, Go Forth, was a breakthrough for the brand. What song would best describe the brand today? The music at our last editor event really captured the Levi spirit. We brought in a group of teenage cellists that I ran into one night in San Francisco, who played everything from Bach to Lady Gaga. These 19-year-olds, who were trained at the conservatory, were playing pop music through a refined, classical lens—that’s what Levi’s is about right now.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M a s t R i d s taW i a R z /G e t t y i m a G e s ( p e i t i e R ) ; c o u R t e s y L e V i ’ s ( 4 )
one to watch
Manhattan Media honcho Tom Allon already controls 13 publications in the Big Apple and beyond—from Dan’s Papers to Avenue to Our Town. But what he really wants to do is run the city. The Daily sat down with the Liberal Party’s mayoral pick to get the inside dope on his not-so-quixotic quest. By ChrisToPher TennAnT. PhoTogrAPhy By giorgio niro When you landed the Liberal Party endorsement in June, the WSJ referred to you as a “political neophyte.” Fair or unfair? I mean, I ran for student council in college, but I’ve covered politics for 25 years as a reporter, editor, and now publisher. I know every politician in town. So for them to call me a neophyte is a bit disingenuous. I’m also president of my co-op board. There’s no harder lift than getting the pet policy overturned. Are you worried about going up against the Bloomberg machine? I consulted on his campaign in 2009, so I know it very well. And I don’t think the mayor is going to necessarily go all out for [presumptive frontrunner and current city council president] Christine Quinn. I mean, I’m sure he’ll do whatever he can to help her, but it’s not like she can spend more than six and a half million dollars on this campaign because she’s capped. I think, worse case scenario, I’ll raise three or four million. This is one of those campaigns where I think ideas will matter more than money, so I’m pretty confident. If Christine Quinn or Bill Thompson comes out of a bloody Democratic primary and there’s a Republican candidate, and there’s me, you never know. I like my odds in that kind of race. The last truly scrappy media guy to mount a serious run for mayor was Norman Mailer. Have you considered a stunt running mate in the Jimmy Breslin mold? I don’t
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
think it’s going to be a stunt, but I’m actually about to launch a pretty aggressive outreach into the Latino and African-American communities to see if I can find a running mate to run for comptroller or public advocate. Hopefully, I can find someone who’s in sync with my ideas. Bring some ethnic politics back to New York! Hey, if people are going to play identity politics anyway, why not? I come from Holocaust survivor parents. I also speak Hebrew. Did I mention I’m Hungarian? I was very lower-middle class, went to public school— Stuyvesant—worked my way through college and graduate school, and basically through luck and hard work was able to make myself relatively successful. How did you get into journalism? I went to Columbia J-School. Before that, I was one of the editors at my college paper and started a lefty weekly at Cornell called The Point. I got the bug then, went to Columbia in ’85, worked at the Times as a clerk for about a year. Then I saw an ad for a job at The West Side Spirit, which was a new weekly paper, applied, and became the editor. New York magazine called us ‘a tiny but tough tabloid.’ I was an investigative reporter and we kicked the crap out of Koch, Dinkins, and Giuliani. By 1994, I was the vice president of that company. Then in 2001, I did a management buyout of some of the newspapers and built Manhattan Media with two private equity partners. We have nine publications in Manhattan, two in the Hamptons, and two in Miami. Are you involved in editorial? I was very involved until about four months ago when I decided to run. Unlike other
people running for office I can’t run all over the city campaigning all day because I have responsibilities. But I’m not worried. I’m just starting to pick up steam. We’ve had 10 years of watching somebody rule the city that was all about money, and I don’t want to play that game. I’m looking forward to raising money, but $175 to $250 at a time time. I’m not going to get $5,000 from developers who I can dispense favors to over the next two years. With Bloomberg, you had the opposite issue. Thoughts on Bloomberg? I like this mayor. I think in many ways he’s been effective, but there are a lot of things that are unfinished. I think education is a huge, huge problem. But, no question about it, this city will be poorer when he’s not mayor. Literally. He donates over a billion dollars of his own fortune to the city every year. Let’s cut to the chase: How do you win this thing? Look, I’m very confident once I get up on stage with the other candidates that I’m going to seem a lot more intelligent and pragmatic. People will see that I have the same kind of experience that people liked in Bloomberg. I’ve been a successful businessman— not nearly as successful, of course, but I’ve made a payroll for the last 20 years and built a company that now employs 120 people. I’ve also taught in a classroom for three years and raised three kids in the city. I’m a little closer to what it’s like to be paycheck to paycheck than this mayor, or Quinn, or De Blasio. By the way, this is a real old-school operation you’ve got here... My business partner and I were classmates from Columbia. We’re sort of entrepreneurial journalists. We call ourselves media mongrels. I enjoy it and could do it for a long time. But I had this itch to run for mayor, so I decided to scratch it. B Ac kg r o u N d : d o N e M M e r T/g e T T Y/A F P ; c o u r T e s Y M A N H AT TA N M e d i A
one to watch
Center, it’s a new ball game. The whole dynamic has changed. As I was leaving, the setup was changing behind the scenes, too—I started to see emails going to 30 people that used to go to three or four. What did you do right after leaving IMG? I spent almost a year enjoying what you work so hard in life to enjoy: spending time in my Southampton house and traveling. Was it hard to unwind? It took a little longer than I thought. The minute I announced I was leaving, I should have bought stock in Nespresso—everybody under the sun called to pick my brain over coffee! You never know where a fabulous idea will come from, but there are so many out there, it’s like throwing wet paper towels on the ceiling and seeing which ones stick. I was giving advice up and down the avenue. That’s how I decided to become a consultant. What do you think of all the scheduling fracas? When I was running the whole shebang, I never knew the answer, either! It’s always been a competition. There are too many shows—you kind of wish there was an industry vetting of who gets on the calendar. But you never know who’s new and fabulous that deserves a chance. I applaud everybody trying to take a stand on the scheduling issue, but ultimately it’s all about negotiation and compromise. I’m happy that I don’t have to have the answers! How have relationships changed between the capitals? When we first started New York Fashion Week, the Italians were much more cooperative than the French— they didn’t quite believe that we had any business creating a Fashion Week because they thought there was no talent in America. But Michael Kors was designing for Céline, and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.... How do you think DvF and Kolb are faring? They’re doing a fabulous job. They’ve totally moved it into places that it needs to go now. Diane is a citizen of the world, and she brings good energy to the organization. I’ve known Steven for a gazillion years, and it’s been marvelous to see his transformation. He’s doing a lot that we tried to do when I was there. How has your relationship to fashion changed? I still love the industry. It will always be a part of my life, but now I gloss over a lot of the news. I don’t get so uptight about all the gossip and minutiae. What’s up with your QVC jewelry line, Fern Finds? It’s a collection that evolved out of my travels, mostly to India. I’m starting small, with around five pieces. Why QVC? The New York cognoscenti who travel can find these things—but the rest of the universe doesn’t have the same resources to travel and shop that way. Everything is under $100! I also liked the idea of not dealing with a store as a middleman, where stuff just sits there and somebody has to explain the items. On QVC, you talk to the customer directly and share your passion for the line. Then, they either buy it right away or they don’t.
Fern’s Next Act(s) Fresh off a quick turn in the Broadway play Love, Loss, and What I Wore, Fashion Week’s original instigator Fern Mallis has big plans. A consulting business, an interview series at the 92nd Street Y, and a jewelry line with QVC, for starters! BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How did you end up on Broadway? I knew the producer of Love, Loss, and What I Wore, Daryl Roth, and I got a call in early December because they wanted to add a fashion person to the January cast. I brainstormed, but I knew designers couldn’t do it because of Fashion Week. One day, out of the blue, I said, ‘Why don’t you use me?’ I auditioned, and that was it! I’ve been a huge fan of the play for years, and I’d seen it several times with different casts. What’s the gist of it? How clothes play into all significant life happenings! How did it feel to take to the stage? Scary as all Jesus! It’s outside my comfort zone, but it’s a new year, so I was feeling a whole new energy. Did you ever harbor any covert theater ambitions? No! But my mother was a theater freak. I have her extraordinary collection of Playbills from the sixties, seventies, and eighties in my garage. Of all of the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
things I’ve accomplished, my mother would be so proud to see my name in a Playbill. How did it feel to leave fashion after so long? When I left IMG after close to 19 years of running Fashion Week, I needed time. I realized how wound up I was. You start to question everything. When did you sense that it was time for a change? As we were making plans to move to Lincoln Center. I was obviously involved in the move—and it didn’t happen overnight. I’d been holding down the Bryant Park fort for years, and I tried to make every adjustment possible to keep Fashion Week there. At a certain point, the move was inevitable—and it ended up providing closure for me. We had a big, fabulous party to say goodbye to Bryant Park. I cried many times. It felt like my Bat Mitzvah or something! What do you think of Fashion Week now? As much as I support what’s happening in Lincoln
Courtesy Carol roseGG (1)
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StAr IS Born!
Harald Glööckler! We couldn’t dream him up if we tried! Front row at Berlin Fashion Week, your Daily encountered this ultra-glam designer, dubbed the “Prince of Fashion.” He unveiled his plans to bring his particular brand of magique to American shores. Warning: this is a real story. BY EDDIE ROCHE
Are you really coming to America? I’m booking some flights to California. There are plenty of people who want to meet me, who want to work with me, and who love me. I’m different and glamorous, and people don’t feel they have that anymore. Where is Versace or Liberace or Elizabeth Taylor? People like my idea of doing glamour for the masses. I started turning every woman into a princess about eight years ago. I believe no woman should ever cry. Now, there is a potential reality show. We’d watch! I’ve never been to Los Angeles, so it will be my first trip. A television crew will also follow me because I’m doing a reality show for a German channel at the moment. I’m thinking of getting an apartment in LA because I have a lot of friends there. It’s magic. I can’t tell you why, but now is the time. You’re going to love Beverly Hills. I’m sure one day I’ll have a big villa there and be one of the last divas on earth. I’m sure I will love it. In my 1995 Haute Couture show, Chaka Khan modeled and Bo Derek was a guest. Chaka told me to come to Los Angeles because I was too much for Germany. The Germans can’t handle personalities, that’s the problem. Ute Lemper and Marlene Dietrich are not so much appreciated in Germany. If you are an extravagant man, it’s not so easy. I’ve been on a shopping channel in Japan, and in London, they did a documentary on me that was called ‘Harald Glööckler: Prince of Fashion.’ People loved me! Of course! Have you been to New York before? Yes! I stay at the Plaza. I love that hotel. I went to Times Square last year, and a German television crew was following me to see how people would react. A lot of young guys called out my name. Even if they don’t know who I am, people wanted my picture because they thought I looked gorgeous. But a lot of people knew me. Even in the hotel elevator, people would stop me and say that I was bringing back old glamour. I met Wyclef and he told me he loved my style and his bodyguard said, ‘I think you can buy it. He’s a German fashion designer.’ I also ate the best steak of my life. I could live in New York immediately. People say it’s a big town, but I felt I had arrived at home. You don’t feel like you are in the city with all the trees. We’d love that! What do you think of American fashion designers? I know Isaac Mizrahi, and I like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. You have a lot of great
“I started turning every woman into a princess about eight years ago.” designers. They are elegant, sophisticated, and wearable. I wear sports things from Ralph. What about Ed Hardy? I’ll tell you the truth—I like it, but I never wear it, because I never champion the things that everyone wants to have. I did those kinds of styles in 1994! I’m not one of those people who jumps on every train. I’m much more classical and traditional than you’d think.
“I never want to be a king! A prince is always young.”
What does it mean to be the ‘Prince of Fashion?’ They first called me that in London—on my first QVC show. They said I looked a bit like Prince. Some of the blogs have said that I look like the son of Liza Minnelli and David Gest. Since I was six years old, I have dreamed of being a prince. Now, I dream to make every woman into a princess, and I want to be the prince of all these women. But I never want to be a king! A prince is always young. Indeed. You’re keeping busy! I’m designing bags, cosmetics, iPad cases, furniture, and they’re sold all over the world. At the moment, I’m designing a house for a company that makes ready-made houses. I’m also writing a new book that has to be ready in two weeks. I started two weeks ago. It will be brought out in English because a lot of people in other countries have requested that. The book is about me being at the Plaza and looking out the window at Central Park as I talk about my life from Hong Kong to St. Moritz. At the end of the book, I take my suitcase and 30 pairs of shoes and perfumes and I fly back home. Which celebrities would you like to dress? Camilla Parker Bowles and the Queen of England. Also, Lady Gaga. But I’m not so obsessed with celebs because I like to dress every woman. Just two days ago, a woman came up to me on the street and said, ‘Look at me! I’m 78 years old and I don’t look like a princess, but in your fashion I feel so royal.’ Would you ever consider taking over at Dior? I don’t think about it, but if they asked, I’d have to consider it. What do you think about the way Americans dress? The Germans want to be perfect, but the Americans dress up however they want and that’s what I like! Everyone is buzzing about a young American designer named Joseph Altuzarra. Do you have any advice for him? Oh my God! Oh my God! Everybody has to do their own thing and learn their way, but what he has to learn is to never give up! Never give up! They always said to me, ‘Why don’t you make fashion like Hugo Boss or other designers? You’re too crazy and too extravagant.’ But I always said, ‘That’s me! I will have success with it.’ Some people want to help, but some people are jealous. Be ready! Did you ever think you’d be as successful as you are? I was always sure of it. How’s your love life? I’m in love with my partner of 25 years. He’s been married before and has two girls. We work on the business together. We think Sacha Baron Cohen based his character Bruno on you. Thoughts? (laughs)) I think you have to ask him, but the proof is that Sacha met me in Germany one year before he started to do the film. We had a nice evening. He asked a lot of questions and filmed me. When the film came out, they found a lot of pictures and situations and poses that he did that I had done before. People
asked his management for a statement but they gave no statement. I enjoy him very much. Were you flattered? Not really. It wasn’t bad or good. It was OK. I’m Harald Glööckler. I am not Bruno. I’m not angry about it. How do you want to be remembered? You have to have a big heart like Elizabeth Taylor. There are plenty of stars, and people don’t remember them. If you do things for other people, they’ll never forget you. You’re friends with Dita Von Teese. She’s amazing. She visited me at my home in Berlin. They told her about me and my 1,400-square-meter apartment [that’s about 4,600-square-feet, darlings!] near Brandenburg Gate and I got a call at 10 p.m. that she wanted to come visit me in an hour. I said OK. I had put away all my makeup, but if Dita is coming— someone who had been together with Marilyn Manson—I can’t meet her without makeup! So I went back into the bathroom and made black eyes, red lips, and crazy sunglasses. She loved it. She’s so beautiful. She tweeted the next day that she very much enjoyed being in my palace and that I’m the modern Liberace. Are you the modern Liberace? I’m Harald Glööckler, but I can understand why I remind them of Liberace. He had a lot of bling, bling... Thank you for your time! I send all my love to all the people in New York, and all the people in the fashion scene.
P O r T r A I T: A L E x k r A N z ; g E T T Y I m Ag E S (4) ; A D : C O u r T E S Y P E TA ; F r A m E : S H u T T E r S T O C k ; r u N WAY: C O u r T E S Y H A r A L D g L ö ö C k L E r
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y l s u o i c i l e d e r o m n e m Ev o r f s t c a f i t r a y n o h p e h T f o s w The Ne chive… Daily ar
VoicemaiL LeFT on DiGiTaL maiLBoX oF a. GonZaLeZ, 1/23/12, 2:33 a.m. “Ciao ciao. Am I calling too late? Basta: Is everybody there? Good. Thank you all for your great work on the issue! About this Front Row feature in FOB—you're right, that name is a piccolo Daily thing. I forget with the jet lag! Oh mio dio, I am so inspired by flight attendants! Will you please remember to upgrade me at the Four Seasons Milano, per piacere? And what do you think about adding those little gold frames to our well features? Baci to all."
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
tRaNSCRIPt: emaiL eXcHanGe
VoicemaiL LeFT on creaTiVe arTiSTS aGency'S GeneraL maiLBoX, January 15, 2012, 8:21 p.m., LoS anGeLeS
“ciao, this is mario [redacted]
calling from la bella Italia. I need to speak with your most top agent immediately. As you may know I have some training in the theater, having appeared in a series of Dario Fo productions in liceo. In New York, DvF has 24 credits as ‘self’ listed on IMDB. I looked for me on that ridiculous site, and it sent me to one ‘Maria Cittadini-Borelli.’ Not okay, carissimo! Now, the massimo is that Fern Mallis is on Broadway! Let’s rectify this situation immediatamente. You call my assistant, please?”
LocaTion: execut ive office at a major new yo rk publishing hous e January 17, 2012, 11:34 a.m.
Woman sounding su spiciously like a pu blisher of one of the major glossies: Hi hi ! How's high society treating you? Woman sounding su spiciously like a re assigned publisherett e: My jewelry clients just can't get enough. But I do miss S... Fashion publishere tte: I can imagine! Sp eaking of business... reassigned publis herette: I heard th at you ended up with the m ost monstrously mas sive office in the building. Fashion publishere tte: It'll do for now, bu t there's no bathroom like my old digs. It's OK , I rarely metabolize muc h. Anyway, question: I know this can't be true, but some of my top clients are telling me that they us ed to buy pages in our mag for as little as $6,000 a page. reassigned publis herette: Really. I re ally don't think we ever sold a page for a dim e under $7,000. Unless it wa s a freebie? Fashion publishere tte: Because Botkier is telling me...wait, a fre ebie? re ea as ss siig gn ne ed d publisherette: Oh ! How is Monica? Now tell me: Are yo u really generating $6,000 a page?
FROM: firstname.lastname@example.org TO: Alisassistant@googlemail.de January 11, 2012, 8:42 a.m.
Dear [redacted], Hallo. i am the contributing associate media editor at Junge Welt, Berlin's own newspaper founded by the young marxist youth moment of Germany, with 17,000 very committed readers. in short, we want to interview the editor of interview. can you help? From: Alisassistant@googlemail.de To: email@example.com January 11, 2012, 8:51 a.m. Sure. Which editor-in-chief? From: firstname.lastname@example.org To: Alisassistant@googlemail.de January 11, 2012, 9:32 a.m. aliona, of course! From: Alisassistant@googlemail.de To: email@example.com January 11, 2012, 1:33 p.m. aliona is no longer the editorin-chief of German interview. Jorg Koch is now the editor. From: firstname.lastname@example.org To: Alisassistant@googlemail.de January 11, 2012, 2:58 p.m. But i have aliona listed on my media contacts sheet as eic, and Jorg Koch listed as executive editor. For heaven's sake! The magazine hasn't even launched yet! From: Alisassistant@googlemail.de To: email@example.com January 11, 2012, 3:41 p.m. i understand your confusion. The best solution is to put all of your questions in writing for naomi campbell, and i will be happy to forward them along. Gruss!
LocaTion: The swimming pool at the ritz, paris January 18, 2012, 5:32 a.m. anna D. [redacted]: I think I need to do something about my look. Tommy T. [redacted]: No! You promised me that you were finished with Dr. [redacted]! anna: Not my face. My wardrobe. Tell me the truth, moppet…am I starting to look tired? Tommy: Only when you do too much yoga. anna: Is Balmain gauche? Are my head-to-toe runway looks looking desperate? Or am I just having another quarterlife crisis? Tommy: That’s too much math for me. anna: I saw this great photo of Annette Weber in a ski cap, and I’m thinking there might be something for me in that look. I want to be, you know, earnest. Should we call Marni? Tommy: That whole upstate New York look is kind of chic now, no? anna: Yeah! I want to go au naturel! Very Cass Bird meets Sally Singer in T. Plus, this constant waxing is driving me crazy. Tommy: Are you really willing to give up your microminis? anna: You know what they say—once a woman hits 30… shuttErstock (4); istock (1)
in ter nationa l edition
volume 7 issue 131
h ig h l ig h t s MYSTERY Andrea Linett spotted with alarmingly deep tan walking into Kors HQ, 3D
Barneys New York’s Q4 earnings decline when survey finds only 3% of consumers want to look like Carine Roitfeld, 11A
i n s i de LOCAL
The Sartorialist finally reprimanded for seatcrashing, Pierre Rougier “overwhelmed” by gratitude of front row, 12E
The Daily accused of hacking into the hearts of the fashion elite, 4C
Fourteen dedicated Tom Ford clients find cloak of secrecy around the designer’s entire operation “really luxe,” 3B
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
f e b r ua r y 9 , 2 0 1 2
chic SHALL T
11˚ yet buoyant
Fa s h i o n ’ s Fa u x e s t n e w s s o u r c e * c h i c s h a l l o t. c o m
Styledotcomthemagazine.com to “Revolutionize the Web”
(NEW YORK) Following the blowout success of Style.com the Magazine’s first print edition, its editor dirk standen exhas announced an ambitious brand ex pansion. ““we’re going tablet, we’re going mobile—and we’re going online!” he told the Shallot, citing “pain in the a**” problems of the print edition as the impetus for the change. the magazine’s design, which boasted an aggressively digital feel, will be used as a template for the new website, which will feature “think pieces and long-format analyses of street style.” “it’s like style.com in that it is a website, but it’s totally nonvisual,” said standen. “this thing is going to look killer on the first-generation Kindle!”
Chanel Winery to Produce World’s Preeminent Nonalcoholic Wine
(NEW YORK) spurred by the recent publication of three new coco chanel biographies, which have led to reports of heavy sighing at the Père lachaise cemetery, Karl lagerfeld has been diving into the chanel archives with newfound fervor. among his discoveries? chanel’s ownership of château rauzan-ségla, a fabled winery in the margaux appellation that was founded in 1661. “at first, i designed a label for the 2009 vintage,” he told the Shallot while sketching its portrait on the iPad. “But then i thought, why not do with the wine what i have done with the fashion, which is to say, make it modern, for a new woman, in a new century?” accordingly, the healthconscious lagerfeld has declared de rauzan to be the world’s first and only “organic, biodynamic, holistic, and sober winery.” the de-alcoholic 2010 vintage will sell for approximately $350 a bottle, almost twice the cost of the robert Parker-approved, 95-point 2009 vintage. “i got sick of diet coke,” lagerfeld explained sheepishly.
Boselli Suggests that CFDA Move NYFW to Chicago
(MILAN) Just weeks after the Camera Della Moda and the CFDa appeared to come to an agreement about the September ’12 show dates, Camera head Mario Boselli has changed his mind. “The New York fashion people are so uptight!” he said over a decaf espresso while breakfasting en bathrobe at the principe di Savoia. “But the Chicagoans, io adoro.” He then proceeded to pull seven lookbooks from his terrycloth pocket, identifying eskell, Creatures of the Wind, and Winifred grace as his “immediatamente” faves. “Marc needs more time? Basta! He can show by appointment only, in October. But questi Midwesterners will deliver an entire collection by august 1. Piccolo problemino, the european press will be mostly in Como, but I am sure they would love to look at images.” P H OTO I L L U S T R AT I O N S : b fA N YC . C O m ( 5 ) ; PAT R I C k m C m U L L A N . C O m ( 1 ) ; g e T T Y I m A g e S ( 4 ) ; S H U T T e R S TO C k ( 9 ) ; C O U R T e S Y m I L L e N N I U m PA R k / P e T e R j . S C H U L z
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