3#/8
a.
#6 x #/4" Fh brass woodscrew
END SECTION VIEW
c.
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2!/2
TOP SECTION VIEW
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#6 x #/4"Fh brass woodscrew
Upper siding
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Lower siding
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LOWER CENTER SIDING
LOWER SIDING
LOWER END SIDING
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NOTE: Siding is %/16"-thick Douglas fir
b.
FIRST: Attach center siding piece to cleats
SECOND: Install siding pieces on either side of center
4!/2
BACK VIEW 3&/8 K
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3!/8 %/16 L
!/4
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UPPER END SIDING
to find a fir dowel at the home center. Thankfully, making your own dowel is a quick and easy technique at the router table, as shown in the lower left drawing on the previous page. To match the details on other parts of the tote, the handle extends proud of the ends and is chamfered on each end, as shown in the main drawing on page 46. The handle fits in the holes in the ends. Gluing a dowel in a hole can be tricky to do neatly, and the largely end grain joint isn’t the best. The answer is to pin the
handle with a short dowel. Detail ‘a’ and the lower middle drawing on the previous page show how it works. DRAWER DIVIDER. A drawer divider creates pockets for the drawers. You can see how the divider is installed with screws covered by plugs in detail ‘a’ and the lower right drawing on the previous page.
SHIPLAPPED SIDING One of the standout details on the tote is the siding that encloses the till (drawing above). The siding is made up of small
How-To: MAKE SHIPLAPPED SIDING a. END VIEW G
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Rout opposing rabbets on blanks for siding
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a.
#/8" straight bit
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UPPER SIDING
3#/8 !%/16
2#/16
UPPER CENTER SIDING
THIRD: Secure end siding piece snug to end
!/4
END VIEW %/32
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Rout Rabbets. Rabbets on opposite edges of the boards allow them to nestle snugly together.
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Sand chamfers before cutting siding to length
All chamfers are !/16" wide
Chamfered Edges. A few strokes with a sanding block are all it takes to dress up the side boards.
pieces that are rabbeted and chamfered in a traditional shiplap form. To add visual interest, the boards are graduated in width from the center out. Rather than work with a bunch of small pieces, I created long blanks for each of the three widths that are needed. With the blanks in hand, you can head to the router table to create the shiplapped detailing. All the blanks have at least one rabbet cut along the edge. The outer boards have a rabbet only along one edge, and the inner boards have a rabbet along both, as in the lower left drawing. The joint between the boards is dressed up with small chamfers. An ordinary chamfer bit won’t work on the rabbeted sections. So instead, I created the chamfers by hand, as illustrated in the near left drawing. GRAIN MATCH. When cutting the boards to length, I started with the boards for the opening above the drawer compartment. For the boards on the back side, I cut them in order so the grain flows from top to bottom. The siding is installed with small woodscrews. The end boards have four screws. The remaining boards have just two. Note the offset holes in the middle boards and the centered holes in the center boards, as shown in details ‘b’ and ‘c.’ Woodsmith.com • 47
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4/4/2016 12:32:48 PM