from Ireland, creating speculation that the first distillation in Scotland may have taken place near the present Kilchoman distillery. Bunnahabhain is the northernmost distillery on Islay, and quite possibly the island’s most isolated distiller, located on the remote northeastern coast. Situated at the northern end of the Sound of Islay, which separates Islay from the Isle of Jura just one mile away, Bunnahabhain looks across at the imposing Paps of Jura. Self-described as the Gentle Giant of Islay, Bunnahabhain single malt is mainly unpeated, and quite soft, though more heavily peated expressions have occasionally been released.
Moving north to the centre of the island, all roads pass through the town of Bowmore, the island’s capital and centre of life. The Bowmore Distillery is Islay’s oldest, established in 1779, also one of the oldest in Scotland. Situated in the heart of the town, Bowmore is located just off the main street on the shore of Loch Indaal. Its storied No.1 vaults warehouse, which sits slightly below sea level and is prone to flooding during high tides in winter, is very likely the oldest Over the last decade Ardbeg has acquired a cult following unrivaled by nearly any other Scottish distillery. continuously used building in the Scotch whisky industry. A holy of hollies for Scotch whisky enthusiasts, the No. 1 vaults are regarded as one of the finest maturation warehouses for whisky in the world. Bowmore is a classically peated Islay malt, though typically lighter than the Kildalton whiskies, with a prominent saltiness.
Across Loch Indaal on the far side of Islay is Bruichladdich, which has made quite a name for itself over the last dozen years. Another victim of fluctuations in global demand for Scotch whisky, Bruichladdich hung on until 1994 when, surplus to demand, its owners finally closed it. A syndicate led by Mark Reiner, of independent bottler Murray McDavid, bought the distillery in 2000 with an eye to launching the whisky as a single malt. It was tough for the first few years, but the investors were handsomely rewarded for their foresight and hard work. The distillery was purchased late in 2012 by Remy-Cointreau for more than ten times the price paid by Murray McDavid. The classic Bruichladdich is only lightly peated, putting paid to the myth that all Islay whisky is smoky. Their moderately peated expression is called Port Charlotte, and is peated to a level similar to that of Ardbeg and Laphroaig. Staying on the western side of Islay, and a little to the north of Bruichladdich is Kilchoman, Islay’s newest distillery, and its only inland one. Established in 2005 at Rockside farm, this micro distillery has been making a name for itself and bottling worldclass whisky since 2009. The distillery has developed a cult-like following for its young, heavily peated whiskies, remarkable given most are between 3 and 5 years of age. The site of the distillery also has some interesting historical connections, having belonged to the clan MacBeatha. The MacBeathas were doctors brought to Islay
Islay’s eighth distillery, Caol Ila, is located just a short distance from Port Askaig, and is by far the island’s largest. Although available for purchase as single malt, the vast majority of its production is reserved for the Johnnie Walker blends. Visually the least interesting of Islay’s distilleries, its saving grace is the view from the stillroom, second to none in Scotland; its large panoramic windows look out over the fertile Sound of Islay (for which the distillery is named) and the rugged island of Jura beyond. The distillery’s peated barley is the same as that used by its sister distillery Lagavulin, though the two whiskies are quite different in style. Caol Ila typically shows more peat and salted fish, while Lagavulin shows smoke and leather. While classic Caol Ila is peated, the distillery also makes an unpeated expression. There is more to Islay than just whisky. It is a stopover for millions of migratory birds, making it a birdwatchers’ paradise. Surrounded by fertile seas it is home to some of the world’s finest seafood, often travelling less than a mile from the boat to your table. Beautiful and remote, the weather may not always be on your side, but who cares about the weather when there’s all that whisky!
Andrew Ferguson is widely regarded as one of the foremost experts on Scotch whisky in Canada, and runs his own business, Ferguson Whisky Tours. Follow him on twitter @scotch_guy