Patatas Bravas

The potato will always be my carb of choice. Mashed, fried, roasted, I’m here for this tasty tuber in all of the ways. And then there is Patatas Bravas. I first tasted these potatoes in a small Spanish tapas bar in Edmonton years and years ago, and right from the first bite I was smitten. Something about these crispy, spicy, saucy, ethereal potatoes spoke to my young soul. While I’ve hoped to experience patatas bravas in the country of their origin, knowing that if I can’t hop a plane to Spain, making them at home is also an option.

So what’s so special about these spuds? This popular Spanish tapa, which translates to “Brave Potatoes” is a delicious combination of crispy fried potatoes topped with a spicy tomato sauce, or “salsa brava”, served with a dollop of garlic aioli. The allure of Patatas Bravas stems from its contrasting textures - crispy exteriors combined with fluffy centres - coinciding with the tangy, spicy sauce and creamy aioli. It’s a dish for the senses, if there ever was one. The smell alone drives one’s appetite into overdrive. No wonder this dish is on menus of Spanish restaurants all over the world. These positively perfect potatoes embody the essence of Spanish tapas: small plates of delicious food meant for sharing in a convivial setting. But in my experience, there’s always a little squabble over who gets the last potato.

Patatas Bravas originated from bustling taverns in Madrid around the middle of the twentieth century. As urbanization was transforming the country, bars started serving tapas to cater to the increasing population. The crispy potatoes served with spicy tomato sauce was thought to be a creation of Catalan or Andalusian cooks, who added a kick of heat to otherwise simple fried potatoes.

As with many traditional dishes, there are regional variations on this dish. Ingredients and preparation can vary slightly from region to region. For instance, in the area around Madrid, the sauce for the potatoes is laced with paprika, whereas around Catalonia the sauce can feature roasted red peppers, which offers a sweeter flavour profile. Regardless of what’s in the sauce, Patatas Bravas is a testament to Spain’s rich cultural heritage and its love for simple, yet flavourful, ingredients.

The real beauty of this potato dish lies in the simplicity of the ingredients. Look for potatoes that are waxy or starchy. Red or Russet potatoes work well, but if you can, shop for locally grown spuds at a farmers’ market near you. They’ll taste so much better than those sitting on store shelves. While you can go ahead and deep fry the potatoes, I find roasting them in olive oil at a high heat emits a lovely crispiness as well, plus my stove top has less mess to clean up. The sauce is rich with crushed tomatoes, onion, garlic, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, and a splash of vinegar. I also add a pinch of sugar to help round out the acidity. What puts these potatoes over top is aioli, and I make a simple one with mayo, lemon juice and garlic - no raw egg here.

This is a dish that represents the Spanish way of life - communal, lively, and full of zest, and whether you’re making these potatoes for a quiet night at home or a festive celebration, they are sure to add a little joy to a dining room near you.

Patatas Bravas

Serves 4

1.1 kg red or Russet potatoes, cut into chunks

½ tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil

¼ tsp pepper

Chopped parsley for garnish

Tomato Sauce:

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil

1 onion, diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 - 796 mL can crushed tomatoes

2 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp (5 mL) apple cider vinegar

1 tsp (5 mL) hot sauce of your choice

1 tsp granulated sugar

1 tsp salt

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

Garlic Aioli:

½ cup (125 mL) olive oil mayonnaise

1 large garlic clove, minced

2 tsp (10 mL) fresh lemon juice

Pinch salt and pepper

1. Place a large unlined baking sheet in the cold oven and preheat the oven to 500º F.

2. Add the baking soda and a generous pinch of salt to a pot of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. When boiling, add the potatoes. Cover and bring back to a boil. As soon as the water begins to boil, set the timer for 1 minute. After they’ve been boiling for the minute, drain the potatoes in a colander. Return the potatoes to the pot and use a spatula to stir them around for 1 minute. This helps to break them down a little and give some cragginess to the exterior which enables the crispy goodness of these potatoes.

3. Pour in the olive oil, salt and pepper. Stir to evenly coat the potatoes. Carefully remove the baking sheet from the oven and dump the potatoes onto it, spreading them into an even layer. Place them in the oven and turn the heat down to 450º F. Roast for 15 minutes, remove from the oven, and flip the potatoes around with a spatula, then return them to the oven and roast for another 15-20 minutes until golden and crispy.

4. While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the sauce: heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and sauté for 5-7 minutes until softened. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute, until fragrant. Add the crushed tomatoes (rinse the can out with about ½ cup (125 mL) of water and add this as well), smoked paprika, vinegar, hot sauce, sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if needed. You can leave the sauce chunky, or use an immersion blender to purée it like I did.

5. Make the aioli: add the mayo, garlic, and lemon juice to a small bowl, stirring to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

6. To serve: you can keep the sauces on the side or drizzle them onto the hot potatoes and serve with more of each sauce on the side for dipping. Top with chopped parsley for garnish.

Note: You likely won’t need all of this tomato sauce, but it freezes well and can be used for future cooking adventures.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon. Her two cookbooks ‘All the Sweet Things’ and ‘Vegetables: A Love Story’ have won awards and been on best-of lists.