S The Cuisine of Spain

BY LINDA GARSON AND KEANE STRAUB

Spanish is the world's second most spoken native language, with around 7.5 percent of the world’s population - nearly 500 million people - calling it their mother tongue. So it comes as no surprise that the gastronomy of Spain (which is about the same size as Texas) has had an enormous influence on the cuisine of many other countries.

With roots in ancient Greek and Roman traditions, along with a Moorish heritage from North Africa, as you’d expect, ingredients vary regionally and generally comprise what nowadays we call the Mediterranean Diet - mainly natural ingredients of olive oil (Spain produces around 50 percent of the world’s olive oil), vegetables, spices, fruit, and fresh meat or fish. Eating is a social activity here, with sharing dishes far more common than each person ordering their own large plate of food.

The time of the meals, however, is very different to other European countries, and typically they probably eat more times over a day than most of the world –usually five meals. The meals are spread throughout the day, starting early and finishing very late!

The day may start with a small, sweet snack on the way to work, often churros (dough squeezed through a nozzle into a long strip and fried in oil) with hot chocolate or coffee with milk to dip them into.

The mid-morning meal is usually salty and a little more substantial – often a small sandwich – likely baguette filled with tortilla (Spanish omelette with potatoes and sometimes onion); maybe ham or cheese; or Pan con Tomate, where the bread is rubbed with garlic and topped with grated ripe tomatoes, salt and olive oil; and accompanied by olives and nuts. Lunch is the main meal of the day, with multiple courses. Many businesses close in the afternoon from 2 pm until 4 or 5 pm, so the Spanish get two or three hours for a leisurely lunch of soup or salad followed by fresh seafood or meat with potatoes or rice, and always bread. Fresh fruit or a sweet dessert such as ‘flan’ (the ubiquitous caramel custard) is essential too, and the whole meal is often followed by a nap.

Then it’s tapas time, or “pintxos” (pronounced “pinchos”) in Basque country in the north of Spain. Meaning ‘cover’ or ‘lid’, historically a glass of wine would be topped with a slice of bread or a small plate to keep out fruit flies, although one story tells of a Spanish King in the 17th century, who ordered taverns to provide a snack (to cover the wine) to prevent customers getting drunk. For this reason, many bars will automatically bring a free tapa when you order a drink (we’re hoping it will catch on here too!).

Tapas can take many forms; always small bites or plates, they might be slices of toasted bread topped with all manner of delicious things – ham, cheese, tortilla, anchovies, tomatoes; or garlicky shrimp or mushrooms; albondigas (meatballs), patatas bravas (fried potatoes in a spicy sauce – see Renee Kohlman’s recipe on page 20), croquetas (croquettes filled with cheese, meat or seafood – see Daniel Ramon’s recipe on page 14).

The list is long, and they are becoming increasingly more creative and complex too as evidenced by “Cruz de Navajas,” from La Clandestina in Zaragoza, winner in 2023 of the Best Tapa in Spain (and which we enjoyed on our tours to Spain in 2023 and 2024!). It’s a very clever tapa of razor clams in white gazpacho with pickled peach, cava gel, borage, and lemon peel“Navaja” is Spanish for razor clam and also for a folding-blade knife!

You can make a whole meal of tapas, ordering three or four each person, usually one a time until you’re full.

In Spain, you might be surprised to discover that dinner is typically eaten around 9 or 10 pm, with most restaurants not even opening before 8 pm. It’s a lighter meal of two or three courses (and always with bread!). In the summer it’s often just too hot to cook, so people will wait until after sunset, around 9:30 pm.

Your dishes in most regions across the country are likely to include Spain’s most popular ingredients of garlic, paprika, tomatoes, potatoes or rice (paella!), and pulpo (octopus), and you’ll see the most prized ingredients included in dishes on many restaurant menus:

- saffron, pricey but a beautiful flavour in everything from rice dishes to desserts

- Manchego cheese from La Mancha in central Spain, made from the Manchega sheep’s milk, and aged for between 60 days and two years

- and ham: usually Serrano ham, which is dry-cured in sea salt and aged a minimum of 12 months; and Ibérico ham, which comes from the acorn-eating, black Iberian pig - and some of the most expensive ham available!

While he’s the executive chef at Calgary’s Barcelona Tavern, Chris Galbraith doesn’t really believe in titles. “It’s a different culinary scene than it used to be,” he explains. “The formality of addressing someone by title is often seen as a thing of the past.”

The son of a Japanese mother, Chris says being exposed to lots of different foods growing up meant he learned an appreciation for all kinds of food, and in particular, seafood. “When I watch shows like “Deadliest Catch” and “Wicked Tuna” I see the stress, danger, and effort that it takes to land a massive bluefin. I can see just how hard it is to simply acquire it. The care they show on screen leads me to want to care for the products I cook.”

When it comes to menu favourites, however, the paella offerings – Seafood, STK and Shrimp, and ‘Blunch,’ to name a few – are what really stand out. “I love the complexity of flavours and getting the socarrat (the crispy layer of rice formed at the bottom of the pan) just right.”

Cooking Spanish cuisine doesn’t require a lot of fancy ingredients, he says. “Let the ingredients shine. Paella is a foundational menu item in Spanish cuisine. It makes me think of family and friends gathering, and everyone sharing. If done correctly, it’s an amazing showstopper for any gathering.”

“Be patient!” he adds. “The rice first needs time to cook properly and then additional time to form the socarrat.”

Paella Rice

Serves 5-6

140 g onion, minced

140 g carrot, minced

140 g celery, minced

60 g roasted red pepper, minced

2 bay leaves

½ cup (125 mL) olive oil

Pinch sweet paprika

Small pinch saffron

140 g tomatoes, diced

500 g bomba rice

1/3 cup white wine

4 cups (1 L) water

½ tsp kosher salt

¼ tsp ground black pepper

1. Sauté onions, carrots, celery, red peppers, and bay leaves, in olive oil on medium heat until slightly translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add paprika and saffron, and sauté for about 1 minute - don’t overcook the spices.

3. Add tomatoes and rice, and mix well. Once rice starts crackling deglaze with white wine.

4. Once the rice has absorbed the wine add water, salt, and pepper. Cover, and stir every 5 minutes until liquid is absorbed.

5. Once liquid is absorbed, turn heat to low until you see a crust form on the bottom.

6. Top with any ingredient you like. Chef recommends, mussels, shrimp, and squid. For additional depth of flavour, you may wish to add chorizo and lobster to the rice.

Chef Chris also shared his recipe for Mojo Verde. “When you make a home cooked meal, often you need just a little oomph to transform your dish from good to amazing,” he says.

“This sauce works with items from potatoes to beef. We created it as it is indigenous to the Canary Islands and worked well with dishes we were working on. I personally like to use this sauce on wings and steaks.”

Mojo Verde

1 bunch cilantro, rough chop

¼ bunch parsley leaves (no stems), rough chop

½ Tbs garlic, chopped

4 tsp (20 mL) roasted garlic

1 tsp (5 mL) lime juice

1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice

1 tsp (5 mL) white wine vinegar

¼ tsp cumin

½ tsp white pepper

1 pinch chili flakes

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded

¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil

Add all ingredients except the oil to a blender and blend until smooth. Slowly emulsify the oil into the mixture, it should be silky smooth.

Chef Bishan Dutt at Edmonton’s Bodega has been cooking Iberianinspired food for well over a decade. When it comes to inspiration, he doesn’t have to stray far, he says. “I’m inspired by the different ingredients I’ve had the chance to work with during my time at Bodega,” he explains. “And by some of the great Spanish chefs I’ve worked with.”

Bodega’s menu boasts plenty of ‘landfood’ – boar cheeks, steak bites, bone marrow, Spanish ham and Iberian pork – as well as seafood, like mussels, scallops, and prawns. “I love anything seafood, not only to cook but to eat, too. Over the years, I’ve really become a fan of octopus.”

Here, Chef Dutt shares his recipe for Grilled Octopus, inspired by the simple way seafood is eaten in Spain. “Octopus is so unique in texture and flavour, and I’m most excited when someone is trying it for the first time.

“Spanish food is a celebration,” he continues. “Everything is made with the thought of eating with someone, so if you’re making Spanish food, make sure you use good olive oil, and invite others to share. Keep octopus ready in the fridge and impress everyone by how quick the dish can be made!”

Note: Chef Dutt says we can find frozen and cleaned Spanish octopus at stores like the Italian Centre Shops.

Grilled Octopus (Pulpo) with Black Olive Tapenade

Serves 4

1 small octopus, approx 3 kg, thawed and rinsed

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

55 g black peppercorns

4-6 bay leaves

4 cups (1 L) of water

Tip:

Do not add salt to frozen octopus as it is cleaned with sea salt and at times can be salty.

1. In a medium pot bring water to a boil with onion, peppercorns, and bay leaves.

2. Slowly drop octopus into water, cover and turn temperature down to medium heat. Let cook for 25 minutes.

3. Turn heat off and let sit in water for 15 minutes.

4. Remove octopus from water and store in refrigerator. Will keep for a few days once cooked. When ready to eat, cut into separate tentacles.

5. Grill on flame if available to create extra flavour from smoke and char. For flat grills cut into small pieces (approx 2½ cm), and add a drizzle of olive oil to caramelize the surface more.

Tapenade

1 small can of black olives, pitted

2 garlic cloves

1 small can of anchovies

1 cup (250 mL) extra virgin olive oil

1 Tbs capers

Juice of half a lemon

Parsley

To taste black pepper

Smoked paprika, optional

1. In a food processor, blend all ingredients to a consistency of preference. Chef prefers a coarser blend to pair with octopus.

2. Place and spread tapenade on a plate and top with grilled octopus. Drizzle with lots of olive oil and smoked paprika if available.

Executive Chef Daniel Ramon says when it comes to cooking, he’s driven by technique. But when it comes to flavours, he looks to both his team in house at Calgary’s Pizza Letty, and his network on social media. “I’m fortunate enough to have team members working with me from multiple backgrounds. Talking to them about food and what they like to eat helps us develop new dishes.”

Pizza Letty’s menu is a global journey, with dishes that highlight Japanese, Mexican, and Italian cuisine, just to name a few. Beef tartare with Sylvan Star Gouda, scallop crudo with mandarin kosho, and pork al pastor grilled and served with pineapple pickled in lime gastrique, are some of Chef Daniel’s current favourites. “I always say that restaurant food tastes better because things are seasoned properly,” he adds.

“Spanish food is all about simplicity, but proper seasoning. Don’t be scared of it!” His recipe for Croquetas de Jamón Serrano is reminiscent of potato croquettes, he says, “But way creamier!” There are no secrets to recreating it, really. “Don’t be shy when it comes to salt,” he reminds. “And clean as you go. It makes cooking so much more enjoyable but it also allows you to really enjoy the fruits of your labour once all the cooking is done.”

Croquetas de Jamón Serrano

Makes 24 bite-sized croquettes

65 g butter

50 g yellow onion, small diced

150 g serrano ham (can substitute with other cured meat, chef loves adding chorizo instead of serrano)

80 g all-purpose flour

2 cups (500 mL) milk, hot

50 g Manchego cheese, grated

To taste salt

Small pinch nutmeg

Flour as needed

Egg for egg wash

Fine breadcrumbs (if using panko, try to get to a finer consistency)

1. In a medium pot, melt the butter over medium heat, add onion and a pinch of salt, stir to combine. Add the serrano ham and cook until the onion is translucent, avoiding browning.

2. Add all-purpose flour and mix until well combined, cook for a minute until it doesn't smell like raw flour anymore, do not brown.

3. Add milk in four increments, making sure the milk is completely absorbed before proceeding with the next addition. Cook for 5 minutes stirring constantly to prevent it from scorching.

4. Add Manchego cheese and season with salt and nutmeg.

5. Place in a container and cover with cling film, making sure the film is touching the surface of the mix, refrigerate for at least two hours, ideally overnight.

6. Shape into small balls and coat with flour, then dip in the egg, and finally coat with breadcrumbs. Repeat the egg wash and breadcrumb steps.

7. Deep fry at 350º F until golden brown.

Born and raised in Edmonton, Chef Corey McGuire of Edmonton’s TZin Wine & Tapas is a graduate of NAIT, and has spent almost thirty years learning the ins and outs of professional kitchens, training under exemplary chefs, and of course, sampling a wide range of global cuisine. “This has allowed me to interpret many classic Spanish dishes in my own style, while still feeding my passion for all things local,” he explains.

The menu shines with locally sourced products: Alberta beef and bison, rockfish from British Columbia, local produce, and Chef Corey’s favourite, ‘The Bacon’, which uses Alberta pork. Tapas are central to the menu: “Sharing small plates with friends and family allows everyone to enjoy numerous courses, small, flavourful bites, and of course, the company surrounding them.”

If you’re not ready to dive headfirst into full-on Spanish-inspired dining, perhaps get acquainted with Chef Corey’s recipe for Romesco sauce.

“This is Spain’s most versatile sauce,” he explains, “and is great with grilled meats like beef or lamb, shrimp, vegetables – I even enjoy it on sandwiches.”

With such a versatile sauce, Chef Corey encourages readers to have fun in the kitchen and think about contrasting flavours, colours, and textures when planning a menu. “Romesco can easily be changed to either be the feature of your star dish, or an accent to elevate your plate. I am hopeful that this will inspire readers to shop local, be confident in the kitchen, and creative with ingredients – just as it has for me!”

Romesco Sauce

Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)

2 dried New Mexico chilies

4 red peppers

3 plum tomatoes

60 g almonds, whole and unsalted

60 g hazelnuts, whole and unsalted

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp cayenne

3 Tbs (45 mL) sherry vinegar

1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil

To taste salt

1. Soak chilies in warm water until soft, strain.

2. Roast whole peppers and tomatoes on a cooking oil sprayed sheet pan in a 450º F oven for approximately 25 minutes (they will be done once you can easily pierce through the tomato), then easily remove the skins of the tomato (once cool enough to touch, simply use your fingers to slip the entire skin away from the flesh) and seeds from the peppers.

3. Roast nuts in the 450º F degree oven until golden brown by placing them in a single layer on a sheet pan for approximately 12 minutes. Check the nuts every few minutes and give the pan a shake to ensure they will be golden and to the toasted level you would like.

4. Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth.