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Page 106
The Wines of Italy
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in Piedmont and served with a local Dolcetto. Sicily’s rare pasta
a vivacious white Asprinio from Aversa. A typical Italian meal
con le sarde (with sardines and wild fennel) is at its best around
may range through three to five dishes, sometimes more. But
Messina matched with a white from Etna.
let’s consider the fundamental courses of antipasti (appetizers
For zampone sausage with lentils it’s Modena and a dry
or openers), primo (pasta, risotto or soup) and secondo (main
Lambrusco di Sorbara; for risi e bisi (rice and peas) it’s Venice
courses, usually meat, poultry or fish) with some further sug-
and a Tocai from Friuli; for trenette noodles with pesto it’s
gestions for vegetables, cheeses, fruit and desserts.
Genoa and a rare white Lumassina; for ossobuco (braised veal
Here are some matches of foods and wines that comple-
shank) and risotto milanese it’s Milan and a Barbera from
ment each other. Still, despite what you might have heard
Oltrepò Pavese; for tagliatelle noodles and meat ragù it’s
about obligatory pairing of local dishes with local wines, the
Bologna and a hearty red Sangiovese di Romagna; for bistecca
food of Italy is usually admirably adaptable. So, naturally
alla fiorentina with white beans it’s Florence and a robust Chian-
enough, are the wines. Experiments with other combinations
ti Classico. And, of course, for pizza napoletana it’s Naples and
are only to be encouraged.
ANTIPASTI (Appetizer)
WINES
Asparagi al burro e parmigiano (asparagus with butter
Collio Sauvignon
and grated Parmigiano) Bagna caôda (raw vegetables dipped into “hot bath”
Barbera d’Asti
of olive oil, garlic, anchovies) Bresaola (sliced air-dried beef of Valtellina)
Valtellina Rosso
Carpaccio (paper-thin slices of raw veal with shavings
Colli Euganei Merlot
of mushrooms and Grana Padano) Crostini di fegato (chicken liver pâté on crisp bread)
Chianti Colli Fiorentini
Fiori di zucchini fritti (fried zucchini flowers)
Orvieto Classico
Frutti di mare (raw or poached seafood salad)
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico