10 ways to be an ally
Priv
ileg
Bi-culturalism:
e is
sue
In converstation with Sebastiaan Boot
DIY
â‚Ź6,50 excl. capitalism
facemask with a message
Your burning questions answered!
Hottie of the month:
Yara Shahidi
2 Index 3 General intro 4-5 Individual intro 6 Hot news update 7 Hottie of the month 8-10 burning questions 11-12 Role models 13-17 Our favorites 18 Column Elke 19-20 Role models 21 How to be an ally? 22 - 24 interview with Sebastiaan Boot about his short-film BICULTURALISM 25 QUIZ: Who is your ultimate celebrity friend group? 26-27 Visual creations 28 Column Sevda 29-32 Our relation to privilege 33-34 Cut-out conversation starter 35 DIY trend 36-37 Fall-Winter trends 38-40 Fashion explained 41 Column Ann 42-46 Must-see 47 Column Stephanie 48-50 Role models 51 Crossword puzzle 52 Sources
Cover by ERIN ANIKER 2
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hot hot hot hot hot hot news news news news news hot hot hot hot hot hot scotLand is the first countrynews to provide news news news news free menstruaL products hot hot hot hot hot hot The Scottish government voted unanimously to pass a news news news news news measure that provides free pads and tampons to anyone who needs it. With this measure they are likely to be hot hot hot hot hot hot the first country to end ‘period poverty’. news news news news news Period poverty is experienced when someone ishot unable hot hot hot hot hot to pay for menstrual products when they need them. It news news news news news is estimated that in the UK 1 in 10 girls, can’t afford to buy menstrual products. Women can experience feehot hot hot hot hot hot lings of shame, poor menstrual hygiene and even health problems due to a lack of access to hygienic period news news news news news products. hot hot hot hot hot hot news news news news news hot hot hot hot hot hot Lockdown is exposing gender gaps in footbaLL news news news news news The Netherlands are currently inhot a ‘partial lockdown’. This means thathot most hot hot hot hot activities and events are limited, but not completely cancelled. For example news news news news news sports: only professional (paid) competitions are allowed, where the amateur competitions hot are cancelled. Thishot is to limit possiblehot growth in infection rates hot hot hot as most sports competitions are considered a high risk activity. Meanwhile news news news news training sessions are allowed, but with limited group size. news hot hot hot hot hot hot This might not seem bad at all, this way The Netherlands can protect their economy and citizens. But what if I told you that the nation’s news best female news news news news football teams are considered amateur, while men’s football is considered hot hot hot hot hot professional?hot So while the women’s league is cancelled for another few months, the men are free to compete. news news news news news Something similar is going on in hot the United Kingdom. When their government hot hot hot hot hot announced a new lockdown in the beginning of November, they decided news news news news news that only the nation’s ‘elite’ football competitions could continue. Therefor they granted permission to the top six tiers of men’s football and the top hot hot hot hot hot hot two tiers of women’s. news news news news news A Dutch team of sports performance specialists wrote as a conclusion hot hot hot hot hot hot to their research about the differences between men and women when it comes to football performance, “Because of the natural physical news news news news news differences in men and women, it is impossible to make a honest hot hot hot hot hot comparison between men’s- and women’s football”.hot news news news news news So how would we be able to fairly treat them differently, if we can’t even compare them honestly? hot hot hot hot hot hot news news news news news 6
T I E T O O H
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i d i H A H S A R A Y (20)
Abora prerchi citiosa et atur as natus alici nem eturent ipic te por adit harum dolupie ndipsuntus e l l a t. Ve r i b u s , o m n i h i t a t. X e r u m r e v e l i d e t r e , tectaquam quas debitae sae videstis porrum r e s s u n t q u a s p e r o v o l e n i s q u i d o l o r e p u d i g e n t u r, o m n i s t, v o l u p t i o r a e e a d e r f e r i o c c u s r e s e c t u r ? E m a n t u r ? O m n i e t, o d u t q u a m s o l o r e s c i d m a i o r r e s s i m i p i t i t o t a t i o d i v i t a u t e o s n o s t, o m n i m u s e a q u a m s u n t. O m n i e t, o d u t q u a m s o l o r e s c i d m a i o r
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r u PA u l
C H A r l e s
Rupaul Andre Charles also known as Rupaul or Mama Ru is an American dragqueen, performer, actor, model, singer and the host of Rupaul’s Drag Race. He is often presented as the Mother of Drag since he is considered the most commercially successful drag queen. His outfits are legendary and his drag persona is iconic. After 12 seasons of Drag Race, Rupaul and his show are considered world-famous. The show is a contest in which experienced drag queens are tested for their “charisma, uniqueness, nerve and talent� to find out which one of them deserves the title for next drag superstar. Rupaul is not only an outstanding entertainer and television persona, but is also known for his social engaged practises. He was the first ambassador for the M.A.C AIDS Fund and he is pioneer when it comes to queer media representation. He also dedicates a great part of his show to LGBTQ+ representation and has devoted the most recent season to actively supporting voter registration.
What is a drag queen? A drag queen is a person, usually male, who uses drag clothing and makeup to imitate and often exaggerate female gender signifiers and gender roles for entertainment purposes. In modern times, drag queens are associated with gay men and gay culture, but they can be of any gender and sexual identity. 11
We’re all born
naKed
and the rest is
d r a g
-RUpaUl
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fa r vo it
O f c o u r s e, you don’t need to b u y a n y m o r e s t u f f, b u t I F yo u wa n t t o. . . we ’ve collected the good stuff fo r yo u ! We ’re t a l k i n g about things that will actually keep you sane when c h a l l e n g i n g t h e s t a t u s q u o, that will take care of you, so you can take care of your s u r ro u n d i n g s. T h e s e a r e n o t your average ‘ must-haves’, created by capitalist-driven m a ga z i n e s p o n s o r s. N o p e, this is a combination of all the freshest gadgets that we consider our e s s e n t i a l s.
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F O AV RIT ES
If the bags under your eyes aren’t Chanel and you ’re tired of fighting all the world ’s bullshit w i t h yo u r s u p e r p owe r s, we ’ve got you covered! Because who has the time to go skincare hunting? This is the only thing you need after a long day of fighting for yo u r r i g h t s. B e c a u s e n o t only your daily flat white l ove s a d a s h o f c a ff e i n e. . . The Ordinar y ‘Caffeine Solution 5% +EGOG’ eye contour serum - €7,50
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F AV OR I ES
O f c o u r s e, yo u wa n t t o f e e l c o n n e c t e d all the time to know what ’s going on, but w h i l e d o i n g t h i s, we t e n d t o d i s c o n n e c t w i t h o u r i n n e r s e l ve s. A n d i f o u r b o d i e s can use a juice cleanse once in a while t o r e s e t a n d r e s t a r t. . o u r m i n d s p r o b a b l y n e e d t h e s a m e. . A t o o l t o b r i n g s a n i t y to our most intense relationship: our technological relationship The Phone Detox - The School Of Life - ₏9,40
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F O AV R IT ES We ’ve a l l b e e n i n the ‘I want to be a princess’ phase in our l i ve s, t h a n k s t o Wa l t D i s n e y, a n d o f c o u r s e , you can be your own p r i n c e s s e v e r y d a y. B u t if you want to do some serious thinking about a s i d e j o b. . t h i s m a y give you more insight into your options! A good read for ever ybody who would like to translate their dreams into reality! What Can I Do When I Grow Up BOOK - The School of Life - €17,80 16
F AV R I T O E S Are you looking for someone to who will stand by your side no matter what? Someone who gives you the energy to rock? Someone who will always keep you warm? Look no fur ther! We ’re n o t t a l k i n g a b o u t b oy f r i e n d s h e r e, o h n o ! We d o n ’ t need that kind of crap in our l i ve s. B u t t h i s K i n t o t h e r m o s. . . damn, it ’ll always have your back! Fill it up with your favorite kind of coffee and you ’re good t o g o. Kinto Travel Tumbler thermos b o t t l e, -€35,-
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breaking through the boxes By Elke van Bekkum
She is pretty, they are weird, she is funny, she is fat, she is stupid. He is smart, he is ugly, they are cool, he is foolish, they are crazy. They are lonely, she is populair, he is wanted, he is a loser She is white, she is black, he is Asian, they are Western. He can’t be emotional, she can’t be rude. A person can only be one thing. Girls can only be girly, boys can only be boyish. One human trait per person enough. That’s who you are, you can’t be anything other than that. Once you’ve found your box, you can’t be in another one. You’re exclusively part of that one little box. On one hand, it’s nice to have a box to fit into, to be part of a group. Even if you’re a loner, you’re part of the loner-group, the loner-box. Finding your own identity and your own voice, can be quite hard so being put (or putting yourself) in a box is easy. But on the other hand, if you can only be in one box, is it really you? If you are fat, can you be pretty as well? If you are intelligent, can you be cool? If you are Black, can you be popular? If you are Western, can you be funny? We have learned to combine human traits with appearance. Most of the time, that’s not the whole truth.
First of all--we need to see people as individuals. We have to pay attention to one person instead of a whole group. Not all people that we put into certain boxes, fit the stereotypes that belong to that box. Appearances aren’t everything. Try to imagine what the world would look like through the eyes of a stereotyped person, try to make contact with people that are victim to harmful stereotypes and see if your prejudices were right (spoiler alert: they’re probably not!). By creating our own experiences, we learn to stop assuming that the stereotype is the whole truth. If we don’t see those stereotypes, the lines of the boxes fade. It becomes possible to rise above one box, fit into several boxes or fit into none at all. Unlike the Exactitudes, which you can see in the background, we wouldn’t judge people and divide them just based on their appearances.
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So, instead of saying there’s a brown nerd sitting next to you in history class, we should say that there’s a smart, emotional and cool boy sitting next to you in history class.
www.exactitudes.com
It’s a judgement. When we let go of our taught judgements, we could let go of the boxes. If we would let go of them, people wouldn’t be chained to their stereotype and get the opportunity to explore themselves, find a way to see who they really are and show that to the rest of the world. The world can see who others really are instead of just seeing a stereotyped group. If we want to break through these boxes and rise above them, we need to get rid of the stereotypes first, because they are the cause of the boxes. Stereotypes create the boxes we put people in. When you fit in a box, you’re part of a certain stereotype, so how do we break that habit of creating those stereotypes?
rupi
K au r
Rupi Kaur (28) is an Indian-Canadian poet, writer, artist, illustrator and performer. She started off as a ‘social media poet’, but quickly fought her way up to the top. Today she is mostly known for her feminist poetry collections. At the age of 22 she released Milk and Honey (2014) which became a #1 New York Times bestseller and sold over 4,5 million copies. The follow-up The sun and her flowers (2017) sold over 2 million copies in the first two months after the official release. Both collections contain illustrations drawn by Kaur herself. Kaur discusses themes as family, love, heartbreak, trauma and healing, but mostly she discusses what it means to be a woman in our current society. Her poetry is loaded with clever metaphors and emotional stories. It is a call upon women all around the world to come together and unite as one, so we can stop seeing each other as competition and start seeing each other as sisters.
Rupi Kaur’s newest poetry book Home Body (2020) 19 is in stores and libraries now!
perhaps we are all immigrants trading one home for another first we leave the womb for air then the suburbs for the filthy city in search of a better life some of us just happen to leave entire countries - Rupi Kaur
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Defend your LGBTQ+ / friends of colour against discrimination.
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Believe that all people, regardless of gender identity, sexual orientation and race should be treated with dignity and respect.
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Be a listener.
Confront your own prejudices and bias, even if it is uncomfortable to do so.
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Racist and anti LGBTQ+ comments and jokes are harmful. Let your friends, family and co-workers know that you find them offensive even when that’s scary and uncomfortable!!
110 0ways to be 0 110 an ally
Anyone can be an ally. In fact, everyone should be one. We are at war with bigotry, racism, sexism, hate, and ugly, ignorant words and actions. Allies use their own privilege to help raise visibility and create opportunities for those at a disadvantage.
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Be willing to talk.
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You can’t walk in someone else’s shoes, but you can acknowledge that they were given a tougher road to travel, support them as they walk it, and try your best to improve it in any way you can.
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Be open-minded.
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If you see people being misrepresented in the media, speak up & comment! For example with the hashtag#datmeenjeniet
Be inclusive and invite all of your friends to hang out with friends and family who are in another bubble. Mix them up and introduce them to each other.
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r e n v n tt ee r v ii e 22
BICULtUrALISM A interview with Co-CreAtor SeBAStiAAn Boot
BICULTURALISM is a shortfilm by Lizaira Angela (23), Lamiae El Hajjaji (21), Nehemina Osei (21) and Sebastiaan Boot (23). It was released in November 2020. We spoke to Sebastiaan about biculturalism and what inspired them to make this short film.
“BICULTURALISM the definition has yet to be identified” These are the first words that appear on screen. Then you see Sebastiaan appearing from the black background. He says, “Wait but, is that your real surname? Then you must have an exotic name? You don’t have that either? How is that possible? Are you adopted or something?”. After Sebastiaan, you see more and more people talk about experiences they had due of their bicultural background. Some chose to quote something that has been said to them and others express how they feel. How did you decide on make a film about biculturalism? “I’m currently following a minor course where we were assigned to make a film in groups of four. We have a class of forty students and we were the only four with a bicultural background. At first we wanted to talk about diversity in the media, but that topic is way too broad. Then we got the idea of making a film about biculturalism. It was nice because we could really speak from our own experiences and those of the people around us. The topic wasn’t so unfamiliar, it was just right.” Is being bicultural the same as being mixed-race? “Biculturality can also be purely based on culture, but it is actually quite broad and there is not yet a real definition. The word ‘biculturalism’ is hardly
ever used and when it is used it often contradicts itself. But that also means that you can give your own meaning to it, its definition can be anything that you feel biculturality is.” What is biculturality for you? “As a child I started wondering, ‘hey I am this, but also this? Or am I neither?’. I noticed that I was being called ‘this’ but also ‘that’ and that feeling, for me, is biculturality. That’s what got me thinking ‘alright, what AM I? Am I everything? Or maybe nothing?’. I don’t think that I’ll ever get an answer to that question, that is the difficult part. Or perhaps even the enrichment.” Have you always known you were bicultural? “No, at least not as a child. Growing up a lot of things were said and done that I didn’t question until I got older. I think
maybe two or three years ago I realized ‘hey, that was not right’. I was raised Dutch and all my life I had been thinking that I was just another Dutch boy, I didn’t understand why people treated me the way they did. I didn’t see it. I think that this is also one of the reasons why we decided to do this project, we wanted to educate more people about being bicultural. So that for example, parents can have this talk with their children saying ‘hey this might be a reason why people sometimes treat you a little different’. My father didn’t have that talk with me, because he also thought that I was simply Dutch. I think that a lot of people genuinely just don’t know about this phenomenon, until you tell them.”
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SeBAStiAAn
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rv n tt e r v ii ee w ii n w e Did you feel like having a mixed identity was an option? “At a young age I did notice that I was being pulled in different directions. I went to my Moluccan grandparents every weekend and it was always nice being there, but I always felt a bit like the outsider. But at school I was also a bit left out, because I wasn’t really Dutch. So I was kind of going back and forth. But now I can more easily identify myself as Moluccan-Dutch.”
Aren’t people with a mixed race background pushed into another box with the word ‘biculturalism’? “Everywhere you try to participate, you’re semi left out. So I think that the word biculturalism could be like a warm blanket that you can put over all these people. It doesn’t have to be suffocating, it can be very comforting being around people, who might have different ethnicities, but share the same pain and walk similar paths in life. Each in their own unique way of course.” Would you say that being bicultural makes you also more of a mediator? “For me, yes. I defiantly notice that I am often more of a mediator because I am familiar with both edges of the sword. It is hard to accept the other side of the story if you’re used to only knowing one side, but being bicultural we are used to falling between two stools
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so it is easier to see both sides even though we risk being held accountable by both cultures. I also notice that most of my bicultural friends can be a bit more neutral than my nonbicultural friends.” So are there also advantages to being bicultural? “Yes for sure there are, I’m not sure if they weigh out the down sides but there defiantly are advantages to being bicultural. For example I feel like I can distance myself more easily from my cultural background. If my Moluccan family does or says something it is easy for me to say ‘yeah but that is not me’ and the same of course for my Dutch family. This ability makes it easier for me to find my own voice, it makes it easier to figure out what I want.”
Check out their film at www.stjoost-exchange.nl/ biculturalism
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L UN E TO G 26
L R EA N O R G
STEREOTYPES AREN’T REAL STERE AREN’T REAL STEREOTYPES AREN’T STEREOTYPES AREN’T REAL STERE AREN’T REAL STEREOTYPES AREN’T STEREOTYPES AREN’T REAL STERE AREN’T REAL STEREOTYPES AREN’T
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A letter from the Grinch By Sevda Moors I would love to tell you my name, but you see this time of the year I am often called differently. As the nights become longer and the weather becomes colder many people decide to fight this darkness with something called the holiday spirit. These people will decorate any piece of furniture with small yellowy lights wrapped around plastic bushes that they gathered from their dusty basements and thousands of stingy trees are moved to the city to be placed in their homes. And then… in every home begins a war, because this tree, which will soon become the face of the family’s holiday spirit, must be decorated. But the real war is yet to begin, because now the town is divided in those who own a decorated spiky tree, who refuse to wear anything but red and green socks for another month… And those who lack this spirit. As kind as the spirited people are, they will go out of their way to show the others, often called Grinches, what a joy the holiday season can be. You can recognize a Grinch from their aversion of Christmas (the final days of the holiday spirit season traditionally celebrated with family, exchanging gifts and enjoying meals), unlike the spirited people who believe 28
these days to bring nothing but love and happiness to everyone who opens their heart to the Christmas joy. The spirited people can only assume that the Grinches do not understand how to celebrate Christmas, so they take initiative to explain to the Grinches what Christmas looks like. They will tell stories of children giggling while they unpack their gifts, bringing up old memories at dinner tables, the taste of grandma’s desert and mostly the feeling of sharing a glass of wine with your loved ones.
Others have families that simply do not get along, but because of the Christmas tradition they decide to squeeze themselves in the same home anyway and as a result you can hear the screaming from blocks away, year after year. Some have lost most of their family, or maybe never even had any so they are devoted to loneliness.
By now you might be asking yourself why the Grinches won’t just join these festivities? If they are not willing to open their hearts to the Christmas joy, their Christmas sorrow must be the result of their own doing. But it is not that simple, because the aversion of Christmas is not the main characteristic of a Grinch, it is their inability to celebrate it like the spirited people.
Then there are the Grinches who come from different backgrounds, their families believe in other traditions than Christmas, so growing up they felt isolated because they could not wrap their heads around this holiday madness. Or the Grinches who fled their own towns because of a war far more dangerous than the Christmas war and are therefore doomed to spend Christmas alone. But the creation of Grinches is not limited to family related reasons, it could be anything from financial problems to mental health issues.
You see, Grinches are not born, they are created and the reason for their creation varies from Grinch to Grinch. Some Grinches do not feel safe with their family, so the social obligation to spend the weekend at their family’s is close to the feeling of torture.
As you might have already figured out, I am a Grinch. Even though I hate Christmas my goal is not to ruin yours, nor is it of any Grinch. We are simply unable to enjoy it like you do and we accept that. But please accept us too, because we are too often misunderstood.
PR E I V GE IL
MY RELATION TO
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E Lk
How can I use my privilege to do something good? How can I be an ally as a white girl? Both of my parents are of Dutch origin, w h i t e, we l l - e d u c a t e d, h a ve a successful job and live in a good neighbourhood. I grew up in the city centre of Utrecht and went to an almost completely white primar y school and high school. Only “ kakkers” (preppy people) went to my school. With “ kakkers”, I mean people who have a lot of money--money that has been i n t h e i r fa m i l i e s fo r a l o n g t i m e. They ’re white and showing off their clothing, brag about their sportive activities and use appearances to s h ow t h ey ’r e p ro s p e ro u s. T h ey ’r e p r e t t y a r ro ga n t p e o p l e. I g r ew up in a monotonous environment that is not looking to the outside wo r l d. A bu b b l e. A bu b b l e w h o consciously unconsciously knows n o t h i n g a b o u t p r i v i l e g e. G row i n g up in a world like this did not make m e r e a l i s e t h a t I h a ve p r i v i l e g e s. I f o u n d o u t m y s e l f. I s t a r t e d looking, reading and listening t o p e o p l e o u t s i d e my bu b b l e. Ta l k i n g t o p e o p l e o n t h e s t r e e t s, following people on Instagram I n e v e r h e a r d o f. W a t c h i n g a l o t o f d o c u m e n t a r i e s. I s t a r t e d e d u c a t i n g myself instead of being influenced by p e o p l e w i t h i n my i n n e r c i rc l e. I ’ m d e v e l o p i n g m y o w n o p i n i o n . W h i l s t d o i n g t h a t, I ’ m t a l k i n g a b o u t i t w i t h i n my i n n e r c i rc l e. I ’ m t r y i n g t o s t a r t t h e c o nve r s a t i o n. I u s e my p o s i t i o n t o t a l k t o p e o p l e i n t h i s bu b b l e. I ’ m m a k i n g s u r e t h ey c a n ’ t b e u n c o n s c i o u s a n d i n n o c e n t a b o u t t h e i r p r i v i l e g e. I w i l l b e a n a l l y t h a t s t a r t s c o n v e r s a t i o n s a n d w i t h t h a t, t r i e s t o c o n n e c t p e o p l e . 29
PR E I V GE IL
MY RELatIOn tO
I ’ m p r i v i l e g e d i n s o m e wa y s, n o t p r i v i l e g e d i n o t h e r s. I g r ew u p p o o r, I l i v e i n a p r o b l e m a t i c a r e a o f R o t t e r d a m a n d I ’ m a w o m a n - - t h i n g s t h a t d i s a d v a n t a g e m e i n m o d e r n d a y s o c i e t y. O n t h e o t h e r h a n d , I ’ m a b l e - b o d i e d , I ’ m s t r a i g h t, m y b o d y i s a s i z e t h a t s t i l l fi t s t h e n o r m a n d t h o u g h I ’ m m i x e d - r a c e, I p a s s a s w h i t e. I h a ve w h i t e s k i n. T h e f e a t u r e s o n my fa c e a r e s e e n a s w h i t e. M y n a m e i s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h w h i t e D u t c h p e o p l e. T h o u g h a l l o f t h e s e fa c t o r s a r e i n t e r t w i n e d w i t h e a c h o t h e r, b r a i d e d t o g e t h e r i n a t i g h t k n o t, I f e e l l i k e m y w h i t e privilege transcends ever ything. Ta ke t h a t fa c t t h a t I g r ew up and still live in a bad part of Rotterdam. Because my s k i n ’s w h i t e, w h i t e p e o p l e t h i n k i t ’s a f u n fa c t a b o u t m e. They ’ll joke about Stephanie f r o m t h e G h e t t o l i k e i t ’ s f u n n y. I f my s k i n wa s n ’ t w h i t e, t h ey would assume I can’t read or speak proper Dutch, that I ’ m b o u n d t o h a ve n o f u t u r e. The system we operate in--it ’s still one designed for people t h a t l o o k l i ke m e, bu i l t o n t h e exploitation of the bodies o f p e o p l e o f c o l o u r. I c a n sit and complain about how it ’s so unfair all I want but it wouldn’t change anything. It w o u l d n ’ t c h a n g e h i s t o r y. W h a t I c a n d o w i t h my p r i v i l e g e, i s u s e i t fo r a g o o d c a u s e. D e c e n t r a l i z e m y s e l f, h o l d o t h e r s a c c o u n t a b l e, c a l l p e o p l e o u t, l i s t e n a n d l e a r n f r o m marginalized voices and offer them a platform where I can, tr y to be as good of an ally as I c a n b e. T h a t ’s w h a t I wa n t t o u s e m y p r i v i l e g e s f o r, e s p e c i a l l y the one obtained through my s k i n c o l o u r.
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PR E I V GE
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MY RELaTIOn TO
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It ’s hard to recognize and acknowledge your ow n p r i v i l e g e, b e c a u s e i f yo u d o, yo u a l s o acknowledge that your accomplishments aren’t 1 0 0 % yo u r s. T h i s i s d i ffi c u l t t o d e a l w i t h. A r e t h e milestones and accomplishments I have achieved over the years really mine? Or did I just achieve all these things because I benefit from certain privileges? I reflect on my own recent e x p e r i e n c e s w i t h my p r i v i l e g e s. Fo r e x a m p l e, i n recent years I have realized that I have the privilege of learning about oppression and exclusion b a s e d o n r a c e a n d s k i n c o l o r, r a t h e r t h a n e x p e r i e n c i n g i t. I also have the privilege that within my own education and field of work, “ my culture” is understood and represented. I even have the privilege that my culture is represented as neutral, or even ideal. But there’s a paradox within being a white woman. On the one hand I experience a lot of privileges because of my w h i t e n e s s, bu t o n t h e o t h e r hand I’m still a woman and women face inequality and o p p r e s s i o n e v e r y s i n g l e d a y. I’m hyperaware of my position but I find it hard to speak u p s o m e t i m e s. T h e l a s t t h i n g I wa n t i s t o s i l e n c e p e o p l e. S o I wonder: can I say certain things as a white woman? Am I allowed to speak up about injustice that has been d o n e t o m e, i f my p o s i t i o n and my privileges may have unknowingly wronged others? I’m constantly wondering how I can best contribute to this as an individual because without being “ the white savior ”, I want t o b e a g o o d a l l y.
n n
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PR E I V GE
“ I t h i n k t h e r e f o r e I a m .”
sEVd
It means that there is nothing c e r t a i n e x c e p t u n c e r t a i n t y. A t l e a s t t h a t is what Rene Descartes meant when he spoke these famous words and these are t h e w o r d s I l i v e b y. I don’t believe in an absolute truth, because we are always in motion, always changing and while we are changing, we are also influencing each o t h e r. T h e r e f o r e I d o n ’ t b e l i e v e t h a t m y p r i v i l e g e i s s e t i n s t o n e. I g r ew u p i n a low income family where no-one attended higher education, but when I grew older I attended higher education myself and m y h o u s e h o l d i n c o m e g r e w. I o b t a i n e d a c e r t a i n p r i v i l e g e, t h a t I h a ve n ’ t h a d b e fo r e. I am a woman in a patriarchal s o c i e t y, t h e r e f o r e I a m s u p p r e s s e d t o a c e r t a i n e x t e n t. But if I were to migrate to join a tribe that considers women more worthy then men, I would become the suppressor because I am a woman. Not only are these variables changing, they are interacting. Growing up poor is different for men and women, but also being poor could prevent me from migrating to the women’s t r i b e. D o yo u s e e w h e r e I ’ m going? Someone’s privilege is a spectrum with no end and no beginning. It has so many variables that it is nearly impossible to calculate and even if you were to d o t h a t, b y t h e t i m e y o u finish your calculation it w i l l n o l o n g e r b e r e l e v a n t. This is why it is important t o n o t m a ke a s s u m p t i o n s, because assumptions are c r e a t e d t h ro u g h c a l c u l a t i o n s, e x p e c t a t i o n s , t h e i d e a o f c e r t a i n t y. The amount of privilege I have and will have is uncertain, the only certainty is t h a t i t i s t h e r e.
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IL
MY RELatIOn tO
a
What ’s your biggest ambition in life?
Where do you see yourself in 15 years?
What ’s your biggest concern when it comes to your future?
When looking at c h a r a c t e r t r a i t s, which family member has the most similarities to you?
How would you describe the person in front of you?
When do you feel the most empowered?
Do you see similarities between your identity and your best friends’?
If you could switch identities f o r a d a y, w h i c h of your friends would you switch with?
What experiences did you have with privilege?
Where do you feel the most comfortable?
What do you consider your best characteristics?
Do you ever feel like an outsider?
When did you last went somewhere out of your comfortzone?
Did you ever feel marginalized? How and why?
Do you see yourself represented on a daily basis?
In which outfit do you feel the strongest?
Do you ever feel like your ‘ in-between’ identities?
What are the keywords when talking about your identity?
How does your environment have an impact on your identity?
How diverse is your environment?
What ’s the best thing you did for another person?
In which outfit do you feel the strongest?
What is your family structure?
Do you ever think about your privileges? 33
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v o C e
t o n r u yo i o n in p o
uth
It-trenD
m ur o
o y r
And then all of a sudden it happend: the big C, t h e C o ro o n s, M i s s Ro n a. . . The Corona pandemic has turned our entire lives upside down. Not only does it have a significant impact on daily life and the health o f yo u a n d yo u r l ove d o n e s, this pandemic also increases inequality between different groups within society and creates an environment filled with fear a n d h a t e. S o i t ’s m o r e i m p o r t a n t t h a n eve r t o s p e a k up and do something good! But we shouldn’t forget t h e i m p o r t a n c e o f g u a r a n t e e i n g y o u r o w n s a f e t y. . . E ve r y w h e r e we l o o k, we s e e fa c e m a s k s w i t h a m e s s a g e, and of course you can just write on your package deal d i s p o s a b l e m a s k s, bu t i t ’s wa y c o o l e r - a n d o f c o u r s e more environmentally friendly - to have an unique & p e r s o n a l m a s k ! S o l e t ’s d i ve i n t o t h e p o s s i b i l i t i e s. . .
If you feel like doing some seriously mindful D I Y, e m b r o i d e r y i s a good option! It ’s a little more work, but there are tons of instruction video’s online so you can easily create your own super cute masterpiece!
If you feel all artsyfartsy and want to challenge your inner van Gogh, go for stenciling with textile p a i n t ! Yo u c a n b u y i t in almost ever y arts and crafts store and sometimes even in your l o c a l d r u g s t o r e. G e t your brushes out and go for it!
If you have some pieces of left over fa b r i c. . d o n ’ t t row t h e m away! Cut out the words and icons you want to display and sew them on your mask with a contrasting color and you have created your unique masterpiece! Super f o o l - p r o o f, s u p e r o r i g i n a l m a s t e r p i e c e.
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Bonne Suit “After having worked as a stylist from a young age, Bonne Reijn (Amsterdam, 1990) noticed something missing in the variety of clothing available to us. He felt compelled to create something that would be oblivious to any occasion, sex, age, or social expectation, something that would be a key piece in anyone’s life and wardrobe, suitable for informal and formal occasions, and with long lasting quality. In early 2014 Bonne designed a batch of black and white two-pieced suits, and labeled them BONNE. Today these suits are for sale in varying colors and fabrics. Sizes are made to fit all men and women, from XXXS to XXL.”
Price: €100 / €260
(BonneSuit, about)
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Bonne Suit is a fashion brand for everyone. No gender is linked to the clothing items. You can wear the suits when and where ever you want. It’s there to make you feel good and comfortable. Within this brand there are no labels needed, you can be who you want to be. Everyone is equal to eachother. Bonne Suit did a collaboration with Patta. A street-wear and diverse brand. Both brands are founded in Amsterdam and made out of passion and love. Love for people and inclusivity. They have a passion for high quality clothing just like Ecco Leather who also did a collaboration with Bonne Suit. Not only inclusivity and being able to express yourself the way you are is important for Bonne Suit and the other brands. Sunstainability is also an important topic. clothing that will last you a lifetime, it grows with you and helps you to explore who you are, while also looking really cool!
Fashion explained Daily Paper A brand who also has collaboraded with Bonne Suit is Daily Paper. This brand is created by three friends who want to respresent their subculture in clothing. A culture based on music, the streets and heritage of African culture.
Daily Paper is an Amsterdam- based fashion and lifestyle brand established in 2012 by three childhood friends. The once blog established by Hussein, Jefferson and Abderrahmane shared a love for music, art, fashion, and culture, growing the brand into a household name. Fueled by the rich heritage of African culture wrapped in contemporary designs, Daily Paper has truly become one of the fastest growing fashion brands out of Europe. With two collections a year focusing on both men and womenswear, Daily Paper offers timeless designs across accessories, ready to wear and a range of capsules across the season.
Price: €6,95 / €379,95
This populair brand is also a community for people who didn’t always have an easy life path. They have made a collection together with people out of the community, people who went to “The School of Hard Knocks” which means if they do not have an extensive formal education they have life experiences that are valued instead. Daily Paper gives these people a platform to tell their story, to show who they are. Let a new voice speak.
(Daily Paper, about) 39
Phenomenal Phenomenal is a female-powered lifestyle brand that brings awareness to causes. 100% Black and brown owned + women led. Phenomenal mostly makes sweathers and T-shirts with printed texts based on current affairs. The goal of the brand is to let everyone have a voice. Due to the simple design the message is extra clear. Phenomenal has a Justice for Breonna collection, Black collection, Black Lives Matter collection but also collections for different races. The brand does not only want to make an activist point, Phenomenal also wants people to feel proud of who they are and want them to show it off. Phenomenal is very active on social media and has a community where women come together and share their stories.
PHENOMENAL, inspired by Maya Angelou’s Phenomenal Woman poem, brings awareness to social and cultural causes. We have supported and created content for dozens of organizations Phenomenal, About Price: €20 / €71 40
Not YOUR cool-girl By Ann Leurink Not YOUR cool girl Jugging beers and scotch as if her life depends on it. Acting like their looks are not a priority in life while always having perfect hair and make-up. Eating burgers, fries and pizza all the time, but still being a size 0. Always joking around inappropriately. All classic characteristics of a stereotypical ‘cool girl’, a character that exists within almost every popular movie or tv-show. But why the F is this (quite fictional) type of girl considered so freaking cool? Does she even exist in real life? I really doubt it. But personally, I quite recognize these types of characteristics within my own identity as a teenager, or at least, the identity I wanted to have. I loved to hear I ‘wasn’t like other girls’, I loved to be that ‘one of the guys’-type of girl. These girls were adored by both men and women, because of their effortless coolness & sexiness. And who doesn’t want to be adored? But for who was I doing this? For myself? For the women around me? NOPE. I wanted to be like them so that I was respected, listened to, adored. And who doesn’t want to be adored? But what I realize now is that the ‘Cool Girl’ is in fact some weird fantasy (or even a fetish) from male writers. It’s not a real woman. Actually, it’s not at all empowering to proudly say you’re not like other girls. Because why wouldn’t you want to be? This problematic character makes it seem like tossing out all your ‘girly’ personality traits is a good thing, as if these characteristics are wrong and you can’t be taken seriously if you have them. They’ve washed away all of their femininity outside of looks, which gets to the point of emphasis across clearly. They have to be attractive. Cool girls are often so underdeveloped that they are unrelatable to anyone watching or force insane fantasies upon viewers that set an impossible standard by which we judge people in real life. I want to argue for a new take on the cool girl, focused on individuality. A cool girl who actually does something for the women around her. One who would speak up about her rights, who supports her friends and sisters, who owns her ‘girly’ character traits, but also has a more careless and wild side. Because you don’t HAVE to choose between being the ‘cool girl’ and being the girly-girl:, you can absolutely do both. Girls aren’t those shallow, one-sided personalities the male gaze in the media often tries to make us believe. I love a good game night, beer and nacho combo once in a while, but there are more important things in the world.
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Must watch
Het Grote Racisme Experiment She transfers the privileges. It is an exercise with which Elliott wants to make the group feel what it is like to be humiliated, always have to fight for your rights. The experiment caused a stir in a country that had only just abolished its racial segregation laws. (VPRO)
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A group of participants have no idea in what kind of experiment they are in. Blue eyes and brown eyes are taken apart. The blue eyes are treated rude and disrespectful. The brown eyes are treated really kind and are told the blue eyes are bad and stupid people. When they come together Elliot gets meaner to the blue eyes and sweeter to the brown eyes. The coloured brown eyed people are starting to understand this is the exact same as racism. Based on colour, not treated equally. The blue eyes are really mad and do not understand what is happening. When Elliot explains what she was doing, the blue eyes got speechless. They experienced racism for the first time and understand they are actually privileged.
online Must see Must Listen In the podcast De Correspondent the research is done with much precision. The themes are varied. Topics as racism, entrepreneurship, philosopy and conspiracy theories are all discussed. With 221 stories you can always find a topic that fits you. Dipsaus is socially critical, culturally interested, politically involved and always with a proper dose of humor, originality and deep-rooted stubbornness. It’s from the perspective of women of colour, which is rare in Dutch mainstream media.
Must follow
@omroepzwart
@ruijunluong
Omroep Zwart is a new Dutch broadcaster who represents the whole Dutch society. It’s not on television yet but they are already doing interviews on Instagram. People in every colour, size and style have a conversation about what needs to changed and how they are going to do that together with the Omroep Zwart community.
Rui Jun Luong is a Dutch girl who stands up against racism, especially racism aigainst Asian people. She is a creative girl and shares a perfect mix between showing who she is and discussing social problems. She is also part of the #datmeenjeniet group. A hashtag you post when you see disrimination on social media to show it is not accapteble.
@debroervanroos
@zeikschrift
Tim Hofman is Madelijn van den Nieuwenhuizen started presentator of the Dutch online program this Instagram account as a mediacritical #Boos. They stand up for people who are platform. She reacts treated unfairly. On to any kind of media and mostly writes his Instagram he posts about politics and about lack of diversity other current topics and how she thinks and shares his strong it can be changed. All her arguments are opinion with it. He is straightforward which substantiaded and she motivates her makes it accesible followers to have a to follow. If you also want to read offline, meaningful and well he has two books with considered discussion epochal poetry. instead of reacting without thinking
In Damn Honey women talk about heavy topics in a light-hearted way wich makes the podcast very accessible to listen. The feminist platform invites one or two guests every two weeks to ensure there’s a new conversation every podcast!
In PsychoLogisch is psychologist Sabine Klaver in conversation with experienced experts about topics such as anxiety. She tries to make themes like these negotiable. And tries to break the taboos around it, step by step. 43
Must go to Gender is a hot topic: gender-free toilets, Dutch Railways with ‘Dear Travellers’, and no boys or girls labels in the HEMA stores. But did you know that what we see as masculine or feminine is largely culturally determined? In a festival-like setting, dive into the world of gender and discover how this is expressed and experienced worldwide (TropenMuseum). In “What a Genderfull World”, it’s shown how cultures put people into gender. Gender is taught. Did you know that a century ago, someone in the western world decided blue is for boys and pink for girls as a marketing tool? That’s crazy, isn’t it? In other parts of the world, like India, men wear pink all the time! The Tropenmuseum shows different stories and discusses what kind of role gender has in the world. How do we use gender differently? WHat is the commotion around the subject? Why are people so persistent on keeping two genders? If you want to see how the non-western world thinks about gender, you should totally visit this exhibition!
Must read Hallo Witte Mensen is based on personal anecdotes, scientific publications (in easy languige) and conversations with experts. Anousha Nzume helps white people to deal with their white fragility. At the same time, she helps non-white people how to deal with the defensiveness of white people once their privilege is questioned. She brings all of this with love, compassion and patience, which totally makes it worth it to read!
Feminist Findings is made by women and non-binary people a.k.a the L.i.P. Collective (Liberation in Print) They came together during the COVID-induced lockdown and collaborated through their computers to dig through digital archives, searching for missing histories, feminist journals, magazines and newsletters. Feminist Findings presents the research in this zine with the goal to give these unknown stories a platform. 44
offline offline Must Must see see Must walk The most accessible acitvity (especially during Covid-19 pandemic) is walking trough the streets. Put your headphone and phone away, have a look around you. The streets in a lot of cities are painted full with special messages. Street art can be made by anyone and is for everyone. It’s there to spread love but it is also a anonymous way to share thoughts. This art is not directed or selected as it is in museums, not censored as it is online. 45
Things I Wish I Knew At Seventeen by Stephanie van Tol As a twenty-two-year-old, I like to think I have tremendous amounts of life experience and that I know literally everything there is to know. Sometimes, I stare out of my window, drinking the ice coffee I made inspired by a Tiktok-recipe, and think to myself: “God, I should become a life coach. My life experience? My advices? No one compares.” That’s a joke. I’m twenty-two and I don’t know a lot. I do like to think I know more than I did at seventeen. Sometimes, I catch myself thinking that I would like to go back in time to first, fully replace my past self’s wardrobe and second, tell my past self some useful things, like: You’re more than one half of Dutch-ness and one half of Indonesian-ness. People try to reduce you to your biracial background but you’re more than that. You’re not alone in being confused about your biracial identity. You’ll start making sense of it in the future, believe me.
Boys are stupid. Don’t waste your time pining over boys who smell like Axe... Relationships aren’t everything in life and at seventeen, you still have a whole life ahead of you. You’re not weird, stupid or unwanted because you’re not dating anyone yet. Society sucks for making you think that. The fault doesn’t lie with you.
You know that some of the things your white schoolmates and teachers say are racist and harmful. You know that. Stand up to them, hold them accountable, don’t wait until your classmates of colour do so. You’re privileged because your skin’s white. Use that privilege for something good. You’ll regret your silence when you’re older.
Female friendships are so important. Stop saying things that it’s easier to be friends with boys. That’s internalized misogyny and rude towards your female friends. You have more meaningful friendships built on mutual trust and respect & unconditional love with girls than you do with boys already. That’ll still be the case at twenty-two.
There’s nothing wrong with your boobs. All boobs are great, even smaller ones like yours.
One Direction isn’t reuniting. Zayn lives on a farm and Harry probably feels too pretentious to do so. I’m sorry to crush your hopes and dreams, my dear past self, but I’ve got to be real with you.
Stop using so much heat on your hair! Just stop! Your music taste isn’t stupid like your classmate says. He only listens to misogynist songs that glamourize drug abuse. Taylor Swift’s All Too Well is a masterpiece and you shouldn’t be ashamed about thinking that.
Don’t overpluck your eyebrows and don’t cut your own curtain bangs.
I would love to know who I’d be today had I known these things. I’d probably be a great life coach… in all seriousness, it’s fun--fantasizing about going back in time, thinking of what you’d do differently, but it’s not a possibility, so what’s the use in beating myself up over the past? It’s the past for a reason. Until a bad-ass female inventor will develop an actual working time machine, I’ll much rather dedicate my time and energy to learning from past mistakes and improving myself in the present so I can be proud of myself in the future. 46
BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH Billie EILISH Eilish Pirate Baird O’Connell BBILLIE BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH does not only have a very unique name EILISH but also a very unique career. BBILLIE BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH At the age of 4 she was learning to play her first instruments and at the BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH age of 13 she published her first song ‘Ocean eyes’ (2015) with her BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH brother. Only two years later she is breaking the charts being only 15 BBILLIE BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH years EILISH old. BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH But it EILISH is not only her BILLIE age that makes her such an inspiring artist. Eilish’s BBILLIE songsEILISH are breaking BILLIE taboo’s aboutEILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH mental health, her clever lyrics discuss BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH anything from heartbreak to self-hate and she is very honest about her own mental health issues too. EilishEILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE admitted to dealing with depression, anxiety, insecurities about her body BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH and self-harm. BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE BILLIE EILISH But not only is she breaking stigma’s about mental health, she EILISH is also well known for her feminist style. She’s mopping the floor with gender expectations, dressing exactly the way she wants BBILLIE EILISH EILISH BILLIE EILISH EILISH and her statements BILLIE are empowering. “In the public eye, girls and women with BILLIE strong perspectives are hated. If you’re a girl with an opinion, people just hate you. There are still people who BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE are afraid of successful women, and that’s so lame” she said inEILISH an interview. BILLIE EILISH That Billie Eilish is anBILLIE extraordinary,EILISH empowering artist and person is a fact and we can’t wait BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH to see what great things she will come up with in the future to inspire us even more! BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH 47 BBILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH BILLIE EILISH
B i L L i E
EiLiSH
I’m gonna makE wHat I want to makE, and otHEr pEopLE arE gonna LikE wHat tHEy’rE gonna LikE.
Phenomenal
It doESn’t rEaLLy mattEr.
-BILLIE EILISH
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Intersectionality ASEXUAL BISEXUAL BLACK COLOURED CRITICAL DISCRIMINATION ETHNICITY FEMINISM GAY IDENTITIES INDIVIDUAL INEQUALITY INTERSECTIONALITY INTERSEX LESBIAN MAN OPPRESSION PANSEXUAL RACE SEXUALITY SOCIAL TRANSGENDER WHITE WOMAN
“There are many, many different kinds of intersectional exclusions - not just black women but other women of color. Not just people of color, but people with disabilities. Immigrants. LGBTQ+ people. Indigenous people.” Kimberle Williams Crenshaw
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acknowledgemenTs acknowledgemenTs Creating this magazine has been a learning process for all of us. Without the support of our teachers at Willem de Kooning Academy, we would not have been able to create something with this level of awareness of our selves, our story and our final product: CRUSH! Therefore, we would like to thank Amy Wu—thank you for your time, support and creative insights and for being an endless source of inspiration to us. We would also like to thank Teana Boston-Mammah—thank you for your critical yet supportive feedback and teaching us to never stop questioning ourselves. We especially want to thank you for your never-ending enthusiasm, which has been very motivating throughout this process. Another person we would love to thank is Julie Boschat-Thorez. We want to thank you for your insightful lessons and supportive feedback. We definitely learnt a lot from you these past few weeks. And last but not least—we would like to thank our guest teacher, Rosen Eveleigh, even though we only really met at the end of the course. Your unique vision and feedback gave us the final push we needed. Thank you! Not only are we very grateful for our teachers. We’re also incredibly thankful for each other. Creating an archive so personal takes great teamwork, communication and a lot of mutual respect, especially when you’re unable to physically work together due to the pandemic. Despite the circumstances, our collaborating process has been nothing but a huge success so we want to thank each other for our time, devotion, support and inspiration and of course, for making this process such a blast! Lastly, we would like to thank you, our readers, the most for reading (and hopefully enjoying!) CRUSH! We genuinely hope it’s been as much of a blast for you as it has been for us whilst creating this. We hope we’ve inspired you to fully crush those expectations and norms society has set for you!
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sources sources Pg 6 photo 1: Fashionjournal.com – data period poverty: Plan International UK https://plan-uk.org/ media-centre/plan-international-uks-research-on-period-poverty-and-stigma quote Johan Sports: https:// www.johansports.nl/de-fysieke-verschillen-tussen-vrouwenvoetbal-en-mannenvoetbal-de-cijfers/ Pg 11 photo 1: Miles Aldridge for TIME – photo 2: Albert Sanchez and Pedro Zalba – definition drag queen: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Drag_queen Pg 12 photo 1: VH1 Pg 14-17 all product images: amazon Pg 18 background image: screenshot from https:// exactitudes.com/collectie/# - information: https://www. socialevraagstukken.nl/diversiteit-vraagt-toch-om-hokjesdenken/ information: h t t p s : / / b l o g s. h o p e. e d u / getting-race-right/our-context-where-we-are/the-histor y-we-inhaled/how-do-werid-ourselves-of-stereotypes/ Pg 19 images books: amazon – photo 1: Facebook/ Rupi Kaur – photo 2: Nathan Cyprys – information: https:// www.flowmagazine.nl/lezen/ boeken/dichteres-rupi-kaur. html Pg 20 photo 1: Nabil Shash – quote: Rupi Kaur, the Sun and her Flowers (2017) pg 49 Pg 21 information: https:// www.glaad.org/resources/ ally/2 - information: https:// www.dictionary.com/e/whatis-an-ally/ Pg 36 divacup image: divacupglobal.com – wool image: breiwebshop.nl Pg 37 dye image: dylon.com – dress image: Instagram/litchi Pg 38 image and information: bonnelife.com Pg 39 image and information: dailypaperclothing.com
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YOU YOU
BETTER BETTER
GO OUT and and
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