ContentList
1Introduction
2.ChinaFashionMarketOverview
21Marketsize
2.2ChinafashionmarketamidstCOVID19pandemic
23Saleschannel
3.ChineseIndependentFashionDesigners
31ThedefinitionofIndependentDesigners
3.2TheOverviewofChineseIndependentDesigners
33RepresentativeChineseIndependentDesigners
4.Chineseindependentfashionmarket
41Marketsegmentation
4.2Consumerprofile
5ThedevelopmentofChineseindependentdesigners
51ShanghaiFashionWeek(SHFW)astheindustryleader
52Diversificationofretailchannels
6CasestudyofShuShuTong
7.Potentialandcompetitivenss
8Conclusion
1Introduction
ChineseindependentdesignersarethenewbloodofChinafashionmarket.Themainpurpose ofthisresearchistodelveintotheconnotationsandcharacteristicsofChineseindependent designersandthedevelopmentofthesebrands.
Firstly,itreviewedthefashionmarketinChina,includingthemarketsize,themarket overviewunderpandemic,andthesaleschannels.Secondly,thisstudylooksintoChinese independentdesignersbyintroducingthedevelopmentofsuchgroupsandtherepresentative names.Thirdly,marketsegmentationresearchandconsumerprofileareappliedinthis researchtohelpbuildaclearervisionofthisspecificmarketInaddition,acasestudyis conducted,selectingShuShuTongasarepresentativebrandtoshowshowChinese independentdesignersdevelopandsurviveLastbutnotleast,basedontheinvestigation,this studyevaluatesthepotentialandcompetitivenessofChineseindependentdesignerbrands,as wellassomecontroversiesandsuggestionsforfuturedevelopment
2.Chinafashionmarketoverview
2.1Marketsize
China’sfashionindustryisahugeandlucrativemarketintheworldIn2019,China’sfashion marketreached121billionUSDintermsoftotalannualsales,whichisincreasingattherate of25%eachyearAttheendof2020,ChinaexceededtheFashion&ApparelMarketofthe USA(GMA,2021).
China’s14billionpopulationmakesupthishugemarket,andthemarketsizeisrisingyear byyear.TheCovid19pandemichashitthegarmentindustrywithlowerdomesticdemand andhighercostswhileAskciResearchpredictsthatChinaisstillanupbeatmarketin2021, growingtoRMB2.4trillion(HKTDCResearch,2021).Inthe1990s,luxurybrandswereout ofreachforalargepercentageofpeople,buttoday,Chineseconsumerscanbethankedforan accountfornearlyhalfofglobalretailsales(Heuritech,2021)Chinesetouristsarealsobig consumersofhighendproductsabroad,whichaccountfor17%to20%ofgloballuxurysales in2019(Cyril,2021)
22ChinafashionmarketamidstCOVID19pandemic
AccordingtoMcKinsey’sGlobalFashionIndex,economicprofitintheglobalfashion industryfell93%between2019and2020,whileitgrew4%in2019(GMA,2021)Butbythe endof2020,BainreleasedareportshowingthatChinawasthefirsttorecoverfromthe COVID19epidemicandbecametheonlymarketintheworldtomaintaingrowth(Daxue Consulting,2021)
AnotherreportreleasedbyBain&CoCompanysaidthatthedeclineinglobaltravelis promptingChineseconsumerstobuyluxurygoodsacrossthecountry,ratherthanin internationalshoppingmalls(Cyril,2021)WhileInthesetimes,fashionfirmshavestepped upomnichannelservice,asthisadvancementwillbecrucialifconsumerswantcompetitive pricesfromotherretailersthatofferonlineshoppingopportunities(GMA,2021)
ThefivelargestconsumercitiesinChinaareBeijing,Shanghai,Guangzhou,Tianjin,and ChongqingThesecitiesaredeterminedtoattractmoreinternationalbrandsbyexpanding dutyfreeshoppingandincreasingtheirshoppingquotas(Cyril,2021).Ecommerceand digitalmarketingaregettingstrongerduringthenearlytwoyearlongCOVIDpandemicOne exampleisTmallLuxuryPavilion,theChineseecommercegiant’sluxurycentricportal, whichclaimstohavemorethan200officialstorefronts,includingmosttoplevelluxury brands(Booker,2021).
ItisundeniablethatthepandemicisparticularlybeneficialtoChinesebrands,withChinese consumerslookingtoreducetheirdependenceonforeignbrandsandsupporttheChinese economymorepatriotically(GMA,2021)
23Saleschannels
AsHKTDCResearch(2021)commented,themainsaleschannelsofthemainlandinclude departmentstores,specializedgarmentmarkets,specialtystores,storeinstoremodels,and theonlineshoppingmarketandlivestreamingshoppingmarket
Figure1:MainSalesChannelinChina(Author'sown,2022)
InChina,thelivebusinesshaschangedtheretailindustryandbecomeamajorsaleschannel inlessthanfiveyears(McKinseyDigital,2021).LivestreamECommerceisabusiness model,inwhichretailers,influencers,orcelebritiessellproductsandservicesthroughan onlinevideostream,demonstratinganddiscussingproductsinrealtime(Liu,2021).The hostsareknownasKOLs(Keyopinionleaders)andliveecommercemakesthembigand wellpaidstars.TheirremunerationisdifferentfromtheUnitedStates,whereinfluencersare typicallypaidaflatfeeforeachpostInChina,KOLstypicallyreceiveanappearancefee plusaheftycommissiononproductssold(Greenwald,2020).
Alibaba'sverysuccessfulandfamousDouble11ShoppingFestival,istwoandahalftimes biggerthanBlackFridayandCyberMondaycombined(Chozan,2022).Thatisnotwhereit endsupshoppingcarnivalsinchinaNow,manyshoppingholidayspopulatetheChinese calendar,ithappenedalmosteverymonth.PopulardatessuchasChineseNew Year,Valentine’sDay,Women’sDay,Children’sDay,andChristmas(Seema,2020)
Itisalsoworthmentioningthat,inadditiontothesixsaleschannelsthatHKTDCResearch (2021)defined,thescaleandamountofboutiqueselectedshopsarealsogettingbiggerin ChinaSincethelate2000s,thenumberofmultibrandstoreshadsoaredacrossChinaMore than1,000multibrandstoreshaveopenedacrossChinaoverthepastdecade
3.ChineseIndependentFashionDesigner
3.1Thedefinitionofindependentdesigner
Itisnecessarytofirstunderstandwhatanindependentdesignerbrandisbeforediscussing whatanindependentdesigneris(Tsui,2015)Independentdesignerbrandshavefivequalities, whicharepurposedriven,independentlyfunded,designconscious,smallbatches,and nontraditionalmarketing(Robinson,2016).
Designerbrandsandcommercialbrandsareopposed,commercialbrandsfocuson marketorienteddesignstrategies,anddesignerbrandsapplycreativedrivendesignstrategies (Tsui,2015)Independentdesignerbrandsconveymoreuniqueideasthancommercialbrands Becausethesebrands'particularityattractsarelativelysmallergroupofcustomers,their productsaregenerallynotmassproducedHowever,independentdesignersoftenadhereto highstandards,whichmakesproductiontimegettinglonger(LiandYao,2021).Inaddition, independentfashiondesignersfocusonsustainablematerials,thoughtfuldesign,fair employmentpractices,andthecelebrationofcreativity(Moser,2021).
32TheoverviewofChineseindependentdesigner
Chineseindependentfashiondesignersfirstappearedinthe1990s,andsince2000,thanksto governmentsupport,integratedstores,andbuyerstoreshaveprovidedaplatformfor
designerstodevelop,andsomenewdesignershavecreatedtheirbrands(SJFZXM,2019) Thankstotheriseofdigitalretail,Chineseindependentdesignerscanfinallygainafoothold inthefashionmarket(DaxueConsulting,2021)Whilemostofthemarestillintheirinfancy, thereisnodenyingthatindependentChinesedesignersareontherise(JingDaily,2016).
Inrecentyears,thenumberofChinesefashionandartstudentsstudyingabroadhasexploded Mostofthemareanewgenerationborninthe1990s,studyinginleadingfashionschoolsin theUnitedKingdomortheUnitedStates,andthesedesignersrepresentacertainyoungforce emerginginChina(Hu,2021).DesignerJiChengsaidthatinfashiondesign,youthisan advantageAsshementioned,intheeraofrapiddevelopment,youngdesignersandtheir teamsareusuallyclosertotheageofthetargetconsumers,whichmakesthemconnected morenaturally(RIA,2021)Asmillennialsarenolongerdominatedbytraditionalluxury brands,China'syoungdesigntalentsarecatchingupwithagrowingappetiteforalternative andfreshbrands(Smith,2018)
33RepresentativeChineseIndependentDesigners
Inthepastdecade,alargenumberofyoungChinesefashiontalentshavereceivedtheir degreeortrainingoverseas,andthenreturnedtoChinatodeveloptheirbrandsSomeofthem havelefttheirimprintsintheglobalfashionworld(Wuetal,2020)Threerepresentative designersareintroducedbelow
UmaWang
BeforelaunchingherbrandsinLondonin2005,UmaWanghasstudiedfashiondesignat CentralSaintMartin'sCollegeinLondonandhasservedasaninteriordesignerofmultiple Chinesebrands.Sheisknownasthe"Vogue"Italianversionoftheshow,herworkshavea showinLondon,Paris,andMilan(Dawdy,2017)Mostofherdesignscomefromher personalexperience(Wendy,2020)HerdesignstyledoesnothaveobviousChineseelements butintegratesChineseandwestern.Sheattachesimportancetothereconstructionand treatmentoffabrics,suchaswear,aging,dying,andwrinkletreatment,andpreferstofind morelayersingrayandblack(Helene,2019)
Image1:UmaWangS/S2018runwaybackstage(MaterialMagazine,2018)
XuZhi
AnotherCSMgraduate,ChenXuzhihasbeenrespectedinthefashionworldheisthestaple foodofLondon,andLilyofLillenisnowacelebritybutitisveryhigh,thetalented designerbecomesahouseholdname(Jain,2019).Herworktypicallytakescommonmaterials suchassatin,denim,jacquard,andthenreconstructsthemintopleasing,complex,andoften chaoticforms(Jain,2020).
Image2:XuZhiS/S21spring/summercampaign(XuZhi,2021)
AngleChen
DesignerAngelChenhasbeencreditedbymanyforignitingaglobalfireofbold,Chinese talentWithdesignsfusingEastandWest,theANGELCHENlabelisstockedworldwideat 30retailers,includingLaneCrawfordandUrbanOutfitters(Smith,2018).Herdesignshavea distinctdegreeofrecognition,andsheisgoodatusingChinesecharacteristics,suchasflower andbirdcharacters,dragonpatterns,craneembroidery(Gwhite,2020).
Image3:RunwaylooksfromtheAngelChenspring/summer2019collection(China Daily,2020)
WiththedevelopmentofShanghaiFashionWeek(SHFW),moreandmoreChinese independentdesignershavegainedpopularityandawarenessShushuTong,launchedin2015, successfullywonovertheGenZaudience.Also,BanXiaoxue,RuiZhou,PengTai,Feng Chenwang,andmanynewdesignersareshiningonthestageIt'sworthnotingthattwo ChineseindependentdesignersRuiZhouandShuttingQiusuccessfullyenteredtheLVMH YoungDesignerPrizeThisisthefirsttimethatChinesehavebeenshortlistedfortheaward (Jiang,2021)
ChinesefashiondesignersaremoreconfidentinapplyingChineseuniquedesignelements now(WangandWu,2021)Theytrulybelieveinwhattheyaredoing,andarenotledby trend,establisheddesignersoreventhemarket(Zhang,2019).
4.1Marketsegmentation
Table1:SegmentationofChineseIndependentDesignerMarket (Author'sown,2022).
Marketsegmentationhelpscompaniestargetcustomersbasedontheircharacteristicsand needssoenablestheirmarketingeffortsandresourcestobeusedontherightaudience(Lowe, 2020).ThedetailedmarketsegmentationoftheChineseindependentdesignermarketis presentedbelowtablewhichalsohelpsreadersgetthewholepictureofChineseindependent brandconsumers.
Fromageographicanddemographicperspective,themarketiscomposedoftheyounger generationfromwhothemajoritycomesfromorlivesinthebustlingcity.Morenotably,the consumergroupsharesuniqueconsumingpsychologyandbehaviorsTheypursuefashion, selfidentity,uniquenessandarewillingtotrynewthings,thereforegivingthemarketamass spacetogrow
42Consumerprofile
Consumerprofilescangathertheinsightsneededtoidentify,segment,anddefinethetarget audience(GWI,2022).AccordingtothesegmentationoftheChineseindependentdesigner market,CiciXiangYejingisatypicalrepresentativeconsumerofChineseindependent designerbrands.
CiciXiangYejingisafemalemodelthathasbeenineditorialsforELLEandHarper’sBazaar SheisalsoanartistwhoisdeeplyinvolvedinartpromotionHereareherdetailsSheloves fashion,arthistory,sharingherlifeonsocialmedia,andindulginginsportsactivitiesHer dailylifeincludesgalaevents,presstours,orgalleryopeningsInaddition,sheisanartand exhibitionsloverwithgracefultaste.Readingfashionbooks,watchingmovies,and discoveringnewstoriesareherhobbiesAboutherattitudetowardsfashion,sheprefers stronglyopinionatedluxurybrands,emphasizestrend,design,comfort,andinnovation.
Chinesefashion(SHFW,2021)ShanghaiFashionWeekistransformingfromafashion exhibitionplatformtoaserviceplatformwithcomprehensivecoordinationability,andhelp designersandbrandstodefinetheirpositioning,toachievethetransitionfrom"show"to "market"(Shangtex,2015).Aftertwodecadesinexistence,ShanghaiFashionWeek(SHFW) isnowbeginningtoinchaheadofthetopfashionweeks
LabelhoodisanindependentshowcasingplatformunderShanghaiFashionWeek,anda fashionincubatorforyoungAsiandesignersandnewindependentdesigners(SignalHire, 2021).Labelhoodnurturedmanyyoungupandcomingtalentswithlittleornobrand awareness,orbreakthroughtalentsinthefieldofdomesticdesignAndtheyevenhostand showcaseforemergingdesignersatnoextracostasidefromastartupfeeof20,000RMB (NewsDesk,2020)Moreover,labelhood'sstrategicpartnershipswithothercompanieshave notonlyallowedthebrandstogroweconomicallybuthavealsoprovidedmoreopportunities forChineseindependentbrandstothriveoutsideofShanghaiFashionWeek(Jiang,2021)
5.2Diversificationofretailchannels
ShanghaiFashionWeeksupportedalargenumberoflocalChinesedesignersandgavebirth tothedevelopmentofdomesticbuyershops.ThenumberofbuyerstoresinChinaexploded in2015and2016(UnionPayAdvisors,2018)
Moreover,anincreasingnumberofChineseindependentbrandshaveoperatedTmallor WeChatstoresindependently,suchasShushuTong,MingMa,BanXiaoxue,and(Tmall, 2022;WeChat2022).In2021,oneofthefamousChineselivestreamersAustinLiand LabelhoodlaunchedspeciallivestreamingonTmallforChineseindependentbrands,it'sa newwaytopromotethewholeindustry(LiandYao,2021).
BrandsincludingUmaWang,XuZhi,JasonWu,andAngelChenhavenotonlyjoined domesticEbusinessbutalsocooperatedwithforeignplatformslikeFarfetchand NetaPorter.
6.CasestudyShushuTong
ShushuTongwasfoundedin2015byfriendsLiuShuleiandJiangYutong,whichquickly rosetothestatusofindustryrespectinashortperiod(Davis,2021).Thebranddesignis inspiredbythefamousJapanesemangaseries"AimfortheAce!"andcombinesasweet girlishheartwiththeindependentattitudeofmodernwomen(JingDaily,2021;Lau,2018). Now,ShushuTongisstockedatprestigiousshoppingdestinationsandhassuccessfullywon overtheGenZaudience(Davis,2021).ShushuTong'ssuccessholdslessonsforother Chinesebrands
Image5:RunwaylooksfromtheSHUSHU/TONGspring/summer2022collection (Davis,2021)
ThesupportoflocalretailerLabelhoodisintegraltoShushuTong'ssuccess(Nan,2021). BeforeShanghaiFashionWeek,ShushuTonghadalwayshostedpresentationsandshows throughLabelhood(Kurata,2019).ShushuTongattractsthecustomerstheyaretargetedby Labelhoodthroughactiveandonbrandmarketingandretailpracticebothonlineandoffline (Williams,2022).Atthesametime,thedevelopmentofmultiplesaleschannelsgivesShushu TongnewvitalityAspartofnavigatingthisdynamicretailenvironment,theyopenedastore onChina’sbiggestetailplatformTmallin2019,althoughatthattime,fewChinese independentbrandsjoinedTmall(Williams,2019)Thebrandisalsogettingglobalattention, givingevidencethatthebrandacquiredasizeablefolloweronInstagram(Knight,2019)
Furthermore,ShushuTong'saggressivemarketingstrategyisequallynoteworthy.Shushu Tong'sdesignersareinvitedtoreimagineexistingbrandsthroughcollaboration,having releasedtwoin2021withEstéeLauderandChinesestreetwearbrandPeacebird(Bargeron, 2022)ShushuTongandPeacebirdlaunchedacollaborationcollectionwithamoreaffordable pricepoint,whichhelpedthiscollaborationcultivateagroupofpotentialcustomers(New Looks,2021)Atthesametime,thecrossoverwithEstéeLauderisawinwindealforboth parties.ShushuTonghelpedEstéeLauderbuildavibrantandboldbrandimage,andEstée Lauder'swiderecognitionamonglocalbeautyshoppersalsohelpedShushuTongachievea widerreachandhighervisibility(Wu,2021).
InthefieldofearningMillennialsandGenZconsumers,awellbuiltstrongbrandidentityis crucial.ShushuTong'siconicdesignandaesthetic,includingbowknotandflower,hasseta distinguishedvisualandidentityforthebrand(Frank,2021)Besides,ShushuTonghasbeen alsoproactivelyworkingwithmedia,models,andcelebritiestofurtherlevelupitsvolume.A recentexampleisthatthebrandlauncheditsSpring2021campaign,starringsupermodelJu
XiaoWenandshotbyphotographerZengWuThevisualpresentationandstorytellingofthe campaignhavebeengreatlyadmiredbyfashionistas(Wu,2021).Meanwhile,ShushuTong seizedkeypromotionmoments,suchasValentine'sday,bycollaboratingwithotherthree ChineseindependentbrandsfromlabelhoodandphotographersLeslieZhang.
7.Potentialandcompetitivenss
Chineseindependentdesignerbrandswillcertainlycontinuetodeveloprapidlyinthefuture AlthoughthehistoryofChineseindependentbrandsisnotlong,itgrowsveryquicklyandhas achievedcertainresultsNowadays,moreandmoretalentschosetostudyabroadfordesign andarteducation.Atthesametime,domesticfashiondesigneducationisbecomingmoreand morematureAsmoregreatlocaldesignersemerge,Chineseconsumers'understandingand aestheticstowardsfashionarealsobeinginfluenced.Theyaremorewillingtopayfor independentdesignsInaddition,theChinesegovernmentandmanyfashionindustries provideplentifulsupporttoChineseindependentdesignersBenefitingfromthesuccessofa groupofpioneerChinesedesigners,moreandmoreoverseasmarketsarepayingattentionto therisingofChineseindependentdesigners
Chineseindependentbrandscomposeaquitecompetitivetieragainstrivalsincludingforeign designerbrands,fastfashionretailers,andpremiumbrandsAccordingtoaMcKinseyreport (2017),62%ofChineseconsumersprefertochooselocalbrandsatthesame costperformanceratio
8.Conclusion
FocusingonthedevelopmentofChineseindependentdesigners,thisstudyanalysesthe history,thepresentdevelopment,andfuturepotentialsofChineseindependentdesignersThe scaleoftheChinesefashionmarketisverylarge,andmanyinnovativechangeshavebeen made,whichallowstheChinesefashionmarkettomaintainvitalityevenfacingtheepidemic Chineseindependentdesignersshowdiversedesignstyles,distinctivedesignlanguagesand powerfulmarketingstrategies,makingthemshineontheinternationalstageTherefore,this essayevaluatesthewholefashionmarketinChinaandthenfurtherstudiesthespecificmarket ofindependentdesignerbrandsAcasestudyofshushutongalsoprovidesasuccessfuland representativeexampleamongthegrowingChineseindependentdesigners.
Despitethegreatsuccessandhugepotential,therearestillsomeproblemsandchallengesthat accompanythem.Oneofthemainproblemsfacingthemtodayishowtopreventtheirdesign frombeingplagiarizedanddilutedbythemarketAtthemeantime,Chineseindependent designersalsoneedtomaintaintheirownoriginalityanduniquenessbothindesignandby marketingactivationstostrengthentheircompetitivenessamongrivalsfromhomeandabroad
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