COUTURE LUXURY FASHION NAILA BAGH WEEK PALACE
living with the royals Spend some time in this quiet and beautiful palace, dating back to the 19th century, and enjoy a royal retreat 42
INSPIRATIONAL DESIGN IS THE ULTIMATE LUXURY
CHETAN BHATTARAI
The only change in the Mahal is electricity, which came in 1905. The rest is as it is, nothing has been changed
AS YOU MAKE your way through the busy and bustling Moti Doongri Road in central Jaipur, you might miss many things but not the pair of huge wooden doors on a gateway, which block your view of the palace inside, that has quietly stood there for over one hundred and fifty years. Once you enter through these doors from which the high and mighty war elephants and Marwari horses have passed in the past, your eyes will automatically lift up towards a palace with a yellow facade with a huge verandah in front, with stained glass cut in floral shapes in green, blue, orange and red in the front. On both sides, you have neatly cut hedges and as you move ahead, two cannons await you in the parking. Welcome to Naila Bagh Palace–the palace home of Thakur Fateh Singhji, the exPrime Minister of Jaipur (pre-independence)–now a heritage hotel. A pair of steps lands you on the courtyard where two horse-drawn buggies from the erstwhile era stand on both sides, shaded by canopies. There are cane chairs and a tea table that can be shifted to any place in the courtyard where you may want to sit. Everything about the place reminds you of regal splendour, royalty, grandeur and luxury. You will find little evidence of modern, day-to-day things that you are accustomed to seeing. From the huge ceiling fans suspended by long iron rods and operated by switches which were fixed in the first decade of the century, to Belgium chandeliers which illuminate the Mahal inside — all narrate the well-preserved legacy and glorious past of the palace. Only the hi-end amenities so needed for the comfort of modern-day guests have been added. There is no end to the detailing, the intricate work used in each and every piece that meets your eyes. That’s what is called royal, that’s what is called true luxury. You may see a simple wooden chair or a table, but if you observe carefully, you will see the design, and also the amount of art work and the material being invested in these chairs. They have, indeed, cost a lot of time and money as they were created in a royal era for ultimate luxury, not only for the eyes but also for the senses. You have a surreal feeling. It’s like you have suddenly been transported to the past and everything is new to you. The heritage is palpable wherever you go but the owners have gone a step further and introduced unobtrusive conveniences. The hotel reception is in the verandah and has all the modern communication equipment but sits on a table which definitely is not from the present generation. As help arrives to get your baggage, you will find the charming Prince Tri Vikram Singh Naila himself at the reception to welcome you. He is your host and your guide. Vikram is a superbike enthusiast who represented India in the Dubai circuit. He owns a mean Yamaha R6 600 and participates in races throughout India. “I left Dubai two years back to come and transform our ancestral palace L-R: Prince Tri Vikram Singh; Thakur Dushyant Singh
August 2009 | www.lifestyleliving.in
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COUTURE FASHION WEEK
residence into a heritage hotel,” says Vikram. “We started with six rooms and now have 14. I call that respectable progress. Our guests are from Europe, especially the Dutch and French. They not only understand the value of a heritage property but also enjoy its easy, open and relaxed atmosphere.” True to the legendary Indian hospitality, you are his esteemed guest, and definitely royal. Naila Bagh has succeeded in maintaining its traditional ambience and its adjustment to present-day India without compromising on the royal living standards. Being in the middle of a bustling commercial centre which has obviously grown around the royal property, there is much noise outside, but once you are inside the palace compound, there is a sudden aura of calm and tranquillity. The trees are alive with bird song; pigeons flap their wings, rare birds perch by the swimming pool; and peacocks welcome you with their calls—as they flap from one tree to the next. The timelessness is enchanting. The adjoining area to the hotel premises also
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belongs to the family, which was transformed into a school 25 years back and is run by Thakurani Usha Singh, mother of Vikram. The school is an excellent example of royal patronage. The school and the hotel property share a common ambience, yet, to our surprise, they don’t intrude into each other. The front door from the verandah takes you to the Mahal (the main hall). As you enter the Mahal, you feel you have entered a different era. Ornate frescoes and majestic portraits of Maharajas and princesses from the bygone era adorn the walls; colonial furniture surrounds you in majestic charm. Crystal chandeliers from Belgium illuminate the whole area, while the
carpet in the room is 300 years old and also from Belgium. “The only change in the Mahal is electricity, which came in 1905. The rest is as it is, nothing has been changed,” says Vikram. He takes you from one portrait to another, describing the whole history of the palace and the people who lived here. The rooms are designed exclusively and have their own unique charm. The Heritage Maharaja Suite is authentically designed and
INSPIRATIONAL DESIGN IS THE ULTIMATE LUXURY
adorned by delicate frescoes and artistic old Victorian furniture. The entire ambience sweeps you back into the days of glory and the richness of the hospitable Rajput clan. A spacious bathroom helps you sink into the palatial experience. For princely living, you have the Heritage Royal Suite, which is perfect for traditional luxury. The Heritage Deluxe Rooms offer a harmonious blend of modern convenience amidst royal, old-world charm. All the rooms have huge four-poster beds, long curtains and other furniture which have a lot of artwork done in them. The pillars and walls have floral and other designs in matching colours, with lanterns to complete the look. There is a lot of artwork to be seen everywhere. “Art is everywhere in the palace,” reveals Vikram, with a smile. Thakur Dushyant Singh and Thakurani Usha Singh both hold a degree in fine arts, and this love for the arts is reflected in the Naila Art Gallery, located within the premises. The gallery showcases the works of Thakur Dushyant Singh, Thakurani Usha Singh, and other eminent artists. Their works range from traditional art to abstract art in various mediums and far-ranging styles. For artists, the palace– with its peaceful and beautiful environment–is an ideal place to come to work in. As you move out from the palace towards the rear yard, you notice the beautiful swimming pool. This is, indeed, the piece de
August 2009 | www.lifestyleliving.in
resistance as it somehow seems to hold the entire property together. The pool, surrounded by tall trees, has art blended in its tiles and surroundings, with concrete canopies on the sides. True enough, Vikram admits, “The swimming pool was the first thing to be built. Actually, when this palace was being constructed, they needed to store a lot of water. That’s how it came into being.” The pool is enchanting by day and looks majestic at night, due to the combination of tasteful pool- lighting mixed with the artwork and the surroundings.
Apart from a huge palace, royal living is also about horses and elephants, and open jeeps. The palace also organises regular safaris (horse, elephant, jeep) to its guests on request, to the rural countryside, where you enjoy the best of nature and splendid views, and stop at villages to interact with the locals. Truly speaking, a royal life is not for all as it is more about aristocracy and lineage. But if we keep these realities aside for a while, there is Naila Bagh Palace to let you enjoy the way of living of the royals in modern-day India.
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