ring constantly, until the flour is cooked but has not changed color, about 3 to 5 minutes. Slowly add the milk, whisking vigorously to avoid getting lumps. Add the salt, caraway, and thyme and continue cooking for 10 minutes, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan as you stir, until the sauce has thickened and all raw taste is gone. Toss the sauce with the cabbage and place in a gratin dish. Top with the panko and cheese, and finish under the broiler.
I
Crème Caramel
think of crème caramel as crème brûlée’s lighter, more sophisticated cousin. Less finicky to serve, all you have to do is unmold them. The critical part is making the caramel. Because you must take it close to burning, however, a candy thermometer is more or less useless—you need to go by feel. Serves 4 5 tablespoons sugar 5 teaspoons corn syrup 5 teaspoons water 2 cups milk ¾ cup sugar 3 large eggs 2 egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla extract In a small saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, and water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring very gently with a silicone spatula, being careful not to splash any sugar crystals onto the side of the pan. Keep the syrup simmering gently, slowly swirling the pan to stir the caramel. Keep
cooking, stirring frequently, until the caramel turns a rich amber color and large bubbles start to form at the surface. If the caramel starts to foam excessively, remove it from the heat just until the foam recedes and continue cooking. Once the caramel is finished, immediately pour into four 8-ounce ramekins, and tilt the ramekins to coat the bottoms evenly. You need to work fairly fast because the caramel will harden in the dishes, a second set of hands can be helpful here. Set aside while you make the custard. Preheat the oven to 325F. Combine the milk and sugar in a medium saucepan and scald the milk, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, and let cool to just above room temperature. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg and egg yolks. While continuing to whisk gently, slowly add the cream mixture, and then the vanilla; whisk gently to avoid incorporating bubbles. Strain into a large measuring bowl, preferably one with a handle and a spout. Divide the custard into ramekins; then place them in a roasting dish with enough simmering water to come at least halfway up the sides of the pan. Bake for approximately 40 minutes. The custards should be set but still soft: a knife inserted halfway from the center should come out clean. Depending on your oven and the temperature of the water, this could take less time or much longer, so begin checking the custard after 30 minutes. Remove the finished custards from the baking sheet and place on a cooling rack. Cool, then refrigerate for up to 3 days. To serve, dip the ramekins in very hot water for 20 seconds or so to loosen the caramel, then run a small knife around the edge and invert the crème caramel onto a serving plate. n Martin Mallet believes that an empty freezer can be a potent motivator.
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