PEP UP

By Lora Grady

IT’S NO SECRET that over time, skin begins to naturally lose that youthful bounce — suddenly, it doesn’t have the same firmness and elasticity it used to. That’s where peptides (aka polypeptides) come in. Technically speaking, peptides are tiny bits of proteins that add to the skin’s amino acid content—the building blocks of our skin. Our skin produces them naturally but applying peptides topically also has major benefits, which is why so many brands are harnessing their power as a superstar skincare ingredient. “Peptides are a new and exciting frontier in dermatology and cosmetic chemistry because they may enhance the efficacy of our products, giving us better skin results through using ‘smarter’ ingredients,” says Dr. Renée Beach, dermatologist and founder of Toronto’s DermAtelier on Avenue.

One of the first companies to use peptides in its formulas in North America, Jouviance features peptides in many bestsellers, including its latest launch (a retinol serum suitable for all skin types). “Peptides are part not only of our history; they are part of our DNA,” says Nathalie Pelletier, Jouviance’s director of research and development, scientific affairs. There are different types of peptides and each one offers different benefits to the skin (think: stimulating collagen production, offering antioxidant protection or improving skin radiance).

“The advantage of using peptides in our formulas is that they not only offer strong anti-aging benefits, but they are also very well-tolerated by any skin types, including sensitive skin,” says Pelletier. Jouviance combined two high-tech anti-aging peptides in its new 3D Retinol+ Multi-Action Cream to boost the benefits of retinol and anti-aging results of the formula without increasing the risk of reactions such as inflammation, redness, and scaling. “These peptides also work in synergy to improve the smoothness and plumpness of the skin,” Pelletier adds.

When looking for a formula with peptides, Dr. Beach suggests a watersoluble formulation like a serum or lotion, as it will allow for optimal absorption. And remember that consistency is key; using a peptide formulation as per the product instructions for about three months will help you see its long-term benefits on your skin. Over time, you’ll start to notice improved skin thickness and increased elasticity — and “who doesn’t like skin that snaps back?!” says Dr. Beach.

Three active ingredients (0.2% pure encapsulated retinol, 0.1% bakuchiol and peptides) work to visibly reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles while protecting against external aggressors.

JOUVIANCE

3D Retinal + Multi-Action Cream, $79 for 30ml, at pharmacies.

Formulated with 8% glycolic acid and a firming peptide, this cream improves skin’s firmness and volume by smoothing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

NEOSTRATA

Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream, $46, at Shoppers Drug Mart and Jean Coutu.

Take on dark circles, fine lines and puffiness with this eye gel cream, formulated with peptide complex, hyaluronic acid and caffeine.

NEUTROGENA

Hydro Boost + Caffeine Eye Gel Cream, $36.99, at Shoppers Drug Mart.