beauty fix program at the University of Alberta. “As a teen, this type of bacteria usually manifests as whiteheads and blackheads.” However, adult acne is usually due to an increased sensitivity to androgen hormones, usually progesterone, which causes increased oil production and a subsequent rise in bacteria in the skin. “This bacteria will digest the oil and release triggers that cause pimples to occur,” he adds. “Adult acne usually involves bumps like papules, pustules, nodules and cysts; often they are sore to the touch and look red and inflamed, rarely as whiteheads or blackheads. Typically in adults, these lesions are located on the lower face: lower cheeks, chin, underneath the jaw and neck.”
The Breakdown of Breakouts Given that there are many causes for adult acne like hormones, stress and/or using the wrong skincare regimen, treatment can be complex. “While the root causes of acne haven’t changed from your teen years – excess oil and bacteria that clog pores – there are a myriad of modern, lifestyle factors that can conspire to exacerbate acne,” says Dr. David Orentreich, Clinique’s guiding dermatologist. “Things like sun, stress, medications, pollution, sweat and irritation are just a few.” Of that list, perhaps the biggest adult acne trigger is stress. “Stress plays an extremely important role as it affects the hormones that are released into your blood, such as androgens,” says Dr. Frederic Brandt, a New York and Miami-based celebrity dermatologist. “These hormones stimulate cortisol production and inflammation in your body, thus resulting in adult flares of acne.” Additionally, stress can reduce our immune system’s ability to naturally fight bacteria that can promote acne, says Dr. Rao. The solution: Make time for stress-relieving activities during your day, like deep breathing exercises, yoga or Epsom-salt baths – not only will it reduce overall inflammation, but your complexion will be clearer.
Your Acne Treatment Arsenal Beyond stress relief, you can get your skin on track with the right regimen for cleansing, moisturizing and treating. “It’s important to remember that ‘acne’ is not a skin type,” says Dr. Orentreich. “People with blemishes can have oily skin, dry skin, or something in between. This is why it’s important to determine your skin type first so that you’ll be sure to get into a regimen of products that will be most effective.” Once you’ve determined skin type, keep these guidelines in mind for cleansing, moisturizing and spot treatment needs: CLEANSING: “For cleansing, I recommend using products that contain salicylic acid since these are liquid soluble and work to clean out the pores and exfoliate rather than strip the skin,” says Dr. Brandt. If shine is a big concern, look for mattifying ingredients, like clay, in your cleanser too.
BAD HABITS THAT CAUSE BREAKOUTS Aside from your skincare routine, there are lifestyle habits that we practice every day that can contribute to breakouts. For instance, not disinfecting your cell phone can lead to bumps – bacteria readily transfers from your hands to your phone, and then to your skin. Wipe it down regularly with an alcohol swab to nix bacteria. If you’re a gym regular, be sure to remove makeup before a workout, since foundation and sweat adds up to clogged pores. And if you tend to get breakouts along the hairline, consider switching to a clarifying shampoo rather than a super-moisturizing formula – this will keep bumps around the hairline from surfacing.
Cosmetics Picks: Yes To Tomatoes Oil Control Gel Cleanser, $10. Lather and rinse with this salicylic acid cleanser to beat bacteria and breakouts – the tomatoes have astringent properties so pores are tightened.
Burt’s Bees Natural Anti-Blemish Solutions Purifying Daily Cleanser, $15. With willow bark to soothe and salicylic acid to treat, this is a great option for sensitive skin types.
MOISTURIZING: The right moisturizer is key to reducing irritation and controlling excess oil. “Look for ingredients such as salicylic acid, acetyl glucosamine, laminaria saccharina, sucrose, caffeine, and phytosphingosine to name a few,” says Dr. Orentreich. “All these are great to hydrate, but don’t irritate the skin.” Avoid moisturizers with pore-clogging culprits like petrolatum, mineral oil or even natural oils like coconut oil. “If someone is prone to pre-menstrual breakouts, it is especially important to look for a moisturizer with barrier-building ingredients like ceramides,” he says.
cosmeticsmag.com / JANUARY 2013
51