THE DA ILY COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Autumn / Winter 2016
DRAPED DREAMS
NICHOLAS NYBRO
ARTFUL MENSWEAR
PETER SCHAMAUN
CREATIVE TALENT
DESIGNERS NEST
TAILORING TOLERANCE
TRINE LINDEGAARD
No. 4
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
February 6
CH-CH-CHANGES ELSEBETH MOURITZEN Editor-in-Chief
As we round off Copenhagen Fashion Week, the news are coming in from all over the world about the many changes the fashion retail is experiencing in the different markets. Even our own. Not long ago CEO Mads Ryder of Danish IC Company, whose roster of brands includes By Malene Birger, Peak Performance, and Tiger of Sweden, decided to take charge of the company’s e-commerce and metadata himself, in order to act quickly on changes in the marketplace.
In a recent interview with FashionForum.dk he explained, how important the transition is to be more adjustable to consumer taste and behavior. He could foresee the use of their digital platform as a tool to test selected styles through the webshop, and based on the response from consumers, IC Companys would adjust the production. This could be an alternative to the usual and widely used method that is still being practiced among most brands exhibiting at Copenhagen’s trade fairs this week, where professional buyers place their orders 3-6 months ahead of the next season, based on their experience and know-how about trends and consumer taste. This radical rethink is another reflection of the change that the retail industry is going through on all levels, from high street to ready to wear as well as in high fashion. As The Daily critic Jeppe Ugelvig shares in his review of Peter Schamaun, the British luxury brand Burberry announced this week their decision to include ‘seasonless’ collections in their bi-annual catwalk shows that will be available to buy immediately after.
sumer has become accustomed to receiving the fashion news just as fast as any professional. In many cases, they do not want to wait half a year to be able to buy, what they have just seen, especially if it has a seasonless look. And in these globalized times, the upheaval of the traditional production and delivery intervals is getting more and more apparent – and challenged. On a different note, the change is consumerism was also reflected on the last day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, where the official show venue at City Hall was taken over by the hugely successful European e-commerce company Zalando. It was a free event that drew throngs of loyal consumers, who perhaps experienced the magic of a fashion show in a grand location for the first time in their life. According to The Daily’s report from the event, it was a popular decision to include Zalando in the Copenhagen Fashion Festival programme, and this way giving room to a wind of change.
The digital revolution and rapid evolution is part of this change, because the modern con-
Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app for more details go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M
CONTRIBUTORS
PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week
COPY EDITING: Louis Vernal
COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné
DISTRIBUTION: Signe Hye Mouritzen, Camilla Falkvist
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen
ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen
PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk
DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR: Anne Christine Persson
WRITERS: Sille Henning, Lotte Freddie, Jeppe Ugelvig, Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, Courtney Forrest
PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week.
ASSISTANT EDITOR: Frederik Højgaard
copenhagenfashionweek.com
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SALES: Julie Steenstrup
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
ADVANTEGEOUS ACCOMODATION Already planning your trip to Copenhagen for fashion week in August? Perfect accommodation is key when juggling a busy fashion week schedule of shows, events, dinners, and parties. Skt. Petri Hotel, the official hotel partner of Copenhagen Fashion Week, is a luxury design hotel located in the heart of Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter. Skt. Petri offers eight room types, ranging from the elegantly furnished standard rooms to the exceedingly spacious star suite. Professional visitors of Copenhagen Fashion Week enjoy a 20 % discount on all bookings by using the booking code DAFI20, which is applicable for online and telephonic bookings. Skt. Petri Hotel Krystalgade 22 Copenhagen K +45 33 45 91 00 stay@sktpetri.com
PERSIAN PIERCINGS Wednesday, the German fashion darling Lala Berlin presented their collection in Copenhagen for the second time, but this time exclusively in the Danish capital, as Lala Berlin’s Creative Director Leyla Piedayesh, seemingly betting on the brand’s growing Scandi audience, chose not to showcase the collection at Berlin Fashion Week two weeks prior to Copenhagen. For their show this week, Lala Berlin tied an even stronger knot to the Danish fashion scene by allying themselves with the Danish jewellery favourite Maria Black. Piedayesh, a German-Iranian herself, was inspired in part by Ancient Persia’s capital, Persepolis, for the collection, showing in the prints that had Middle Eastern mythical creatures as a starting point, and in part by 90’s grunge. The models sported Maria Black’s jewellery pieces from the upcoming ”Helix” collection – a range of jewellery inspired by body piercings, one of the common references that bind 90’s Berlin street fashion and ancient Persian body ornamentation.
On the inspiration, Maria Black adds: ”Body piercing has been practiced in various forms by both sexes since ancient times all over the world. I love the youthful attitude of piercings but I also lack the will myself to go through the pain of piercing holes in my body.” A pleased Piedayesh commented to The Daily: “I’m very happy to collaborate with such a great Danish jewellery brand for the fashion show. The Maria Black jewellery perfectly compliments the Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 16 collection.” The collaboration appears to support a growing trend in Copenhagen where young, talented jewellers join forces with designers for shows and jewellery collections, notably Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s collab with Orit Elhanati and Ganni and Sophie Bille Brahe. Maria Black’s Helix collection is available in stores from March 2016.
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK OFFICIAL APP Re-live the best of Copenhagen Fashion Week AW16 right on your iPhone
• Show photos • Show videos and interviews • Street style
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
DRAPED DREAMS NICHOLAS NYBRO Time: 14:00 Place: City Hall Words: Courtney Forrest
A visibly relaxed Nicholas Nybro, cocktail in hand, worked the crowd before his AW2016 show at City Hall -- perhaps feeling at ease knowing he took last season’s constructive criticism to heart. This collection completes the story Nybro began in SS2016, inspired by his favorite H.C. Andersen fairytale “The Snow Queen”, centering around three themes: “The escape”, “The innocence” and “The beating heart”. Heavy wools, textured knits, metal-weaved brocades, silks and light plastic fabrics provided the canvas for a palette of black, white and red, with touches of gold and icy grey. Opening with a “woman in white” reading in Danish was quite dramatic, though not ideal for an international crowd. The first section began with a back-alley, almost menacing feel with hints of bondage, followed by softer, voluminous silks and a standout gold cloak. The middle, “Innocence”, was the weakest, acting as nothing more than a palate cleanser that would have been better suited for a summer collection. The closing group felt the most Nybro – conceptual red “ball gowns”, reminiscent of the famous Gone With the Wind drape dress was, while not meant for the real world, what runway dreams are made of. This collection was decidedly more wearable – there was an athleisure moment for goodness sakes – but the showman still shined through in his expertly-handed, dramatic draping, pleating and razor-sharp seaming. While some felt Nybro swung the pendulum too far in reigning himself in, it is encouraging to see him attempting to strike the balance between art and commerce. A talent to be watched.
copenhagenfashionweek.com
THE DAILY
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
TAILORING TOLERANCE TRINE LINDEGAARD Time: 19:00 Place: The Osram House Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
The last show of Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W16 was a joyful reminder that fashion is a communicative platform that can reach far beyond the stuffy and self-gratifying chambers of the fashion industry (whose members rarely have to worry about the immigration police snatching their jewellery at the border). Trine Lindegaard, a graduate from London’s prestigious Royal College of Fashion, approaches her design practice with a strong emphasis on the social, her brand constituting a platform from which to conduct aesthetic and sociological experiments across groups in society. Her A/W16 collection was the fruits of a collaboration with ITMV (In Line with the World), a production workshop for ethnic minority women in the Copenhagen area that enables them to draw on the rich craftsmanship traditions of their native countries. A wonderful mix of fashion professionals and the ITMV community gathered around a communal dressed dinner table. The subject of the collection was food, the centre of most homes, and a thing that, like fashion, should be enjoyed collectively. As models sat down to eat (gasp!) - to a layered soundscape of monologues on favourite dishes, stylized food items featured as playful stitched-on patches in elegant kimono-jackets and shirts. As previously manifested, Lindegaard translates street silhouettes with a highly tailored ease: coral blue track pants and slick turtlenecks added a young flair to an otherwise high-end collection. High in aesthetic and social value, Lindegaard’s emphasis on multicultural tolerance is a torch of hope amidst a dire political conflict in Denmark, which almost overshadowed an otherwise successful fashion week.
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
A GOOD VINTAGE DESIGNERS’ NEST Time: 15:00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie
Designers’ Nest, initiated by Jan Busch Carlsen in 2005, is established to promote Scandinavian fashion talent through a competition. The first prize, of 50.000 Danish kroner, can be achieved by fulfilling the four winning criteria: Creativity. Innovative choice of material. Commercial potential. Originality. 27 designers, two of them men, from 10 different Scandinavian fashion schools proved that Scandinavia possesses an impressive amount of talent. It was actually the best Designers Nest show seen in years and therefore a mystery why some of the more obviously talented young persons were not chosen for a winning spot. One of the demands for fulfilling the competition’s rules are commercial potential, and that was hardly attainable in Maria Suomalainen from Aalto University School of Arts’ white dresses with cut holes under napkin-pleated fans that won third prize. Kathrine Hoffmann from The Royal Danish Academy of Arts obtained second place for a coarsely knitted dress in black and white and a grey hooded blouse over a caramel perforated rubber skirt. The first prize went to Camilla Arnbert from The Swedish School of Textiles who showed a grey checked coat in boiled wool and a long lavender/turquoise fringed dress over a pale blue printed skirt - in a long length that almost all the designers agreed on. Designs, perhaps not madly new but cool and desirable and will fly out of the shops were Mark Lewis Barbero’s great simple black men’s sweater with an asymmetrical wide, blue stripe. And Filipa Borenius’ great sexy, black evening velvet cat suit with strands of black pearls over bare skin and a laser cut silver blouse over tuxedo pants with gold galloons.
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
TIME IS GOLD PETER SCHAMAUN Time: 11:00 Place: Hovedbiblioteket Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
The fashion industry woke up Thursday to the news of Burberry aligning all show- and retail dates, fully embracing a ‘seasonless’ fashion calendar and thus giving up the pre-collection-system that has exhausted fashion’s creative energy of late. In a pressed industry constantly chasing revenue growth, commercial appeal, and investment potential, there seems rarely to be time to elaborate and obsess over one’s design universe. This is exactly why we continuously look at graduate collections - and this is why today, Peter Schauman’s idiosyncratic collection was impactful and timely. The Norwegian Antwerp graduate had chosen the ubiquitous Hovedbiblioteket as his venue, evoking a warm institutional blandness in big contrast to this week’s more slick locations. A group of suit-wearing performers from the Cispa School of Performing arts furthermore procured a kind of ‘performativity of the everyday’ as they activated the runway stage, highlighting the always highly constructed nature of the fashion show. Schauman presented a personal, geeky, and quirky universe that clashed art historical motifs with child-like brush strokes of paint on the back of slightly oversized, cut-and-reassembled blazers and sweaters. This bled over in highly advanced silk prints of abstracted images that seemed to have been pulled from the depths of his Internet-enhanced young brain. However, classic trench coats consolidated that Schauman has been trained in, and perfectly masters, the secrets of fine tailoring. The show was a well-needed dose of grad school extravaganza, an uncompromising manifestation of a conceptual practice that values quality over quantity and meaning over revenue. Take note, Copenhagen.
copenhagenfashionweek.com
THE DAILY
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COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT 12.05.16
”IN THE WAKE OF COP21 AND THE HISTORIC CLIMATE DEAL, THE COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT IS EVER-MORE IMPORTANT.” NEW YORK TIMES FASHION DIRECTOR VANESSA FRIEDMAN
COPENHAGENFASHIONSUMMIT.COM WHERE LEADING VOICES OF FASHION GATHER TO DISCUSS THE INDUSTRY’S SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
A CELEBRATION OF MASCULINITY HENRIKSILVIUS Time: 10:00 Place: City Hall Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen
Henrik Silvius’ inaugural show was held back in august 2014 – presenting his clothes to the audience on rock-hard, Adonis-silhouetted models, in attires leaving little for the imagination. Henrik Silvius wanted to create an ideal beyond what the human body can accomplish – like our childhood G.I Joe-action figures who’s chiselled torsos can make even the most dedicated crossfitters green with envy. Silvius stays true to his design DNA; creating men’s wear, where comfort and wearability live in the shadows of conceptuality - which strives to constantly challenge our perception of menswear. Cut-outs that leave an entire sleeve open, a transparent shirt stitched to the shoulders of a woollen coat, and trousers cut out at the bottom exposing the model calves. For his AW16 collection the designer had reached back in time for inspiration - more specifically referring the roman emperor Caracalla, who lived from AD 198 to AD 217, and committed both massacres and implemented welfare reforms. Drawing parallels to current political crises. Silvius introduced the collection by showing coats, cropped tops and wool pants in a simple, clean cut, and as the show developed, the more conceptual pieces in soft jersey qualities came out. Silvius may never be the designer for the regular man about town, but creatively he is on the path of finding himself, as a designer truly committed to aesthetics and the celebration of the masculine figure.
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
WELCOME TO THE FUTURE VIA DESIGN Time: 17.00 Place: City Hall Words: Sille Henning
The design schools’ graduation shows are like a window to the future, a platform for the young emerging designers to present their creative vision to an audience of potential buyers or even future employers - and for us, a possibility to see into the creative minds of the future generation. Each design school has a different approach to fashion, Via Design’s absolute strength was focusing on the intersection between the creative and the commercial, which Ingrid Søe, Director of Education and Research at Via design, elaborated on before the show. This was visibly particularized in the show, as many of the designs actually were incredibly wearable, without becoming boring – like knitted tromp l’oeil dress under a long colour blocked sleeveless coat by Signe Dahl Sørensen or Lilla Pápai’s white collections, where statements on ribbons were used to create sports references. From the school that has produced design talents such as Astrid Andersen and Ellen Pedersen, there were of course also more street wear inspired collections including Sara Diamant’s pink fur, printed shorts, and yellow pants look. In general the presentation featured interesting pieces and one thing that really struck me, were the finishes of the styles - I haven’t seen my fair share of graduate shows; and I know this it not always their strongest side, but this time I was impressed.
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
ZALANDO’S ZEST FOR FASHION ZALANDO FASHION HOUSE Time: 20.00 Place: City Hall Words: Frederik Højgaard
As fashion week drew its final breath, Europe’s leading online fashion retailer Zalando opened the City Hall’s doors to a fabulous public spectacle, presenting consumers with four key trends for the Spring season. The show titled ‘Zalando Fashion House’ drew a crowd of more than 800 shoppers, defying the February drizzle when lined up on the City Hall Square before show start; the audience eagerly awaiting a rare public fashion week experience, hosted by the enthusiastic media personality Christiane Schaumburg-Müller. Zalando presented four key trends for spring, all looks available online from today. The trends: minimalism, new gothic, new ’70s, and gamification, all beautiful, effortless styles, ready to purchase and wear straight off the runway, and for once, the models smized enticingly, mimicking the crowd’s cheerful ambience After the show, everyone was invited to take a closer look at the clothes in the pop-up showroom. Spectators applauded Zalando’s initiative to bring online shopping to a physical audience and the immediate accessibility of the clothes: ”It is so inspiring that what we’re seeing is available right immediately, so you don’t have to wait until six months from now. The concept is amazing, I like that we get to come here and feel the clothes that we can then view online.” a 26-yearold woman told The Daily.
copenhagenfashionweek.com
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Sponsered by Scholl
COPENHAGEN FEET STYLE It’s all in the details; No look is complete unless well-groomed from head to toe – and all seasons require well-groomed feet. Scholl is all about gentle foot care, making your feet look and feel healthy. Therefore, during Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scholl celebrates the gorgeous fashion feet details of runways and red carpets alike in the tribute series “Copenhagen Feet Style”. Friday marked the final day of fashion week with even more enviable from-the-ankle-down styles in the streets.
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 6
Naja Lybecker and Helle R.K. Jensen from the Pandora PR and marketing team had visitors from national TV talking business. Due to their worldwide success, it is really not necessary to market themselves, but they do it to support their colleagues. “However, we also use it as a branding platform towards editors, who are always important to update.”
IT’S A GEM Patrik Hanssen is considered a breakout star, after just two years in business, and the former Swedish graphic artist blends well into the curated group with his powerful simplicity in 18K gold and diamonds. “I am flattered to be here, because Copenhagen is such a boiling pot”.
Sif Jacobs has had an explosive growth over her six years with the brand in her own name, now selling in 17 countries. The brand is the fastest growing in Scandinavia, and her biggest European markets are Germany and the UK. “Still it is important to present myself in this environment with an edited collection to fashion journalists.”
copenhagenfashionweek.com
The one-day media event The Jewellery Room is successfully breaking its boundaries, as more and more jewellers woo the curated platform for accessory design to exhibit, and the number of visiting editors, match the growing interest. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen
Lei Foo has made the fashion world abuzz with her personal take on feminine high jewellery after just a single year. She is inspired by the African Surma tribe with her minimalistic chokers, but her feminine design draws mostly on the Scandinavian heritage of good quality. “I am so excited that we already have feedback from clients in Japan”.
THE DAILY
Christine Hvelplund has marked herself strongly in Denmark in just 8 years with a new-classic style, and with her second year at The Jewellery Room in a row, she can really feel the increasing media interest. “I see this as a window to the markets abroad”.
Anja Camilla Alajdi is back after five seasons with her Marianne Dulong brand, introducing the new head of marketing, Helene Basse, and their signature Kharisma earrings now available with 508 brilliants. “It is important to support the business by sticking together, and this event is unique, because we are among peers.”
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
February 6
THE DANISH GIRLS As Copenhagen has fostered its fair share of street style starlets, among them models-off-duty like Caroline Brasch and Freja Beha and style icons like Pernille Teisbæk and Marie Hindkær Wolthers, we set out to find the most iconic snapshots from the streets of the Danish capital. And who better to ask than the photographers chasing them?
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NABILE QUENUM, JAIPERDUMAVESTE. COM
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SØREN JEPSEN, THELOCALS.DK This photo of Oh Land is one of my favourite works of mine from Copenhagen Fashion Week. I’m a big fan of her and I think she looks great here as she is about to see the Bruuns Bazaar show. But it is more than that. For me, Oh Land represents the best of Danish style in a city full of stylish people. She is always cutting edge of fashion; her style is fashion forward but never loses its playfulness.
I think I have a few iconic pictures, but if there was one to put on the top, I have to say this one of Caroline. ’Cause here she represents Copenhagen for me, the beauty, the youth, her delicate lightness… the movement; I think she is Copenhagen.
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ADAM KATZ SINDING, LE21ÈME.COM I suppose this photo of Pernille Teisbæk would suffice to describe how I feel Copenhagen could be accurately represented. Obviously she is an ambassador for Danish style abroad, and getting a shot of her on her bike in Copenhagen K was a nice snapshot of the feel of the fashion week for me.
1 — CAROLINE BRASH NIELSEN 2 — OH LAND 3 — PERNILLE TEISBÆK
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
Model and actress Therese Gargas came to the cocktail party in Gerard Butler’s honour with her own beau, entrepreneur Mads Ulrich. ”His empathy”.
February 6
Singer Karen Rosenberg interviewed him at two events yesterday, and had no doubt as to what it is that makes him the Boss Man. “His sense of humour”.
CLOSE TO HIM PR and marketing directors, Henriette Bonnin og Britt Pelsen, promote Boss perfumes in Scandinavia and hosted the cocktail event for media from 12 countries. ”His voice and his cute accent, which he should use more”.
Gerard Butler bedazzled Copenhagen for 24 hours as ambassador for the fragrance Boss Bottle, and we at The Daily asked women, that came close to him: what’s the best thing about the Scottish actor. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen
Actress Cecilie Stenspil and dressmaker Jesper Høvring know their bad habits. She: “I am bit too classic, I should practice being more daring”. He: ”I always wear the same; jeans, shirt and jacket”.
Stylist Anette Hvidt was in charge of grooming the star in Hugo Boss suits and casualwear for four events yesterday. ”He is totally down to earth and makes you feel, that you have known him forever”.
The French ambassador to Denmark, Mr. Francois Zimeray, hosted statuesque model and actress Caroline de Maigret with a reception at the embassy. He said: ”My bad habit is that I love to wear sweaters, when I should dress more formal”.
OH LA LA Caroline de Maigret, a cult phenomenon with her book about Parisian style, launched the Danish edition yesterday at the French Embassy with the subtitle “love, style and bad habits”. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen Designer Malene Birger, accompanied by her friend, Christina Neustrup. “I am a maximalist, I love to collect beautiful things, cheap or expensive, but I have a hard time controlling this passion”.
Caroline Fleming is aware of her vice.” I put comfort before beauty; I follow my desires instead of fashion. I call it individuality”.
copenhagenfashionweek.com
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
February 6
COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS OPEN TO ALL
Fashion week may be over, but Copenhagen Fashion Festival is still alive and kicking. Drop by Magasin to re-charge your post-fashionX week batteries with Fashion Talks – live panel debates on fashion’s hottest topics – and Fashion Cinema, showing the documentary ”Fresh Dressed”.
Fashion Talks MAGASIN DU NORD KONGENS NYTORV 13 COPENHAGEN K THE RISE OF DESIGN TALENTS Saturday, 12.00 Moderator: Moussa Mchangama Participants: Malte Flagstad and Adam El-Zayat Hjort (Tonsure) COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK 10 YEARS Participants: Rikke Baumgarten (Baum und Pferdgarten), Camilla Frank (Fashion-Post), Anne Christine Persson (Copenhagen Fashion Week)
copenhagenfashionweek.com
Fashion Cinema MAGASIN DU NORD KONGENS NYTORV 13 COPENHAGEN K FRESH DRESSED Saturday, 15.00
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
February 6
BACKSTAGE The best from Luka Roné’s visual diary of Copenhagen Fashion Week 1
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
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BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN BY MALENE BIRGER LALA BERLIN DESIGNERS’ NEST BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN LOVECHILD 1979
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN copenhagenfashionweek.com
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No.4 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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BACKSTAGE 2
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1 — DESIGNERS’ NEST 2 — BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 3 — LOVECHILD 1979
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN copenhagenfashionweek.com
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