SPRING / SUMMER 2014
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
FRIDAY AUGUST 09TH
artistic supremacy
REVIEWS
BRUUNS BAZAAR | WOOD WOOD MI-NO-RO | DESIGNERS REMIX
SPOT
Twisted elegance ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
EVENTS
CIFF / DANSK DIRECTION HUGO BOSS COVER PHOTO BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN BY MATHILDE SCHMIDT
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Waste not, want not Editorial
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen
Not long ago, a friend had the serious dilemma of buying a pair of stilettoes – or not. She didn’t really need them, and they were seriously over her budget. Debating the pros and cons with herself, she finally lit up: ”oh, for the sake of the national economy!” And she bought them. You don’t have to be a fashionista to experience the dilemma. We all want to keep the wheels turning and to boost the economy as an excuse to spoil ourselves, but on the other hand, there is a growing consciousness of sustainable solutions and social responsibility. And then the real problem comes, when things go out of fashion, or we just grow tired of things. The average Dane consumes 16 kilos of garments each year, and recent surveys show that 80 percent of the discarded clothes actually have most
of their durability left. The clothes still represent quite a value, and fortunately a rising trend of the past decade has been recycling everything from high street to luxury labels. To emphasize this evolution, Danish Fashion Institute has, since 2009, taken the lead and worked relentlessly on improving standards for garment production and putting attention on sustainability by hosting the biannual event Copenhagen Fashion Summit, which has key international opinion leaders flocking to our capital to discuss solutions.
Staying true to its equally democratic spirit, DAFI is seeing eye-to-eye with consumers and has translated its green intentions to events involving the fashion hungry this week, the biggest being Saturday's Fashion Exchange Market in front of City Hall, opened officially by Denmark's Minister for the Enviroment, Ida Auken. "Fashion is among the industries whose production takes the greatest toll on health and the environment, so it's obvious that it should take part in prolonging its products' lifespan,” Auken states prior to the event.
This week, fashion editor Vanessa Friedman from the Financial Times, who is very impressed with the DAFI initiatives, reported that CFW ”is the greenest fashion week around… as far as I know, no other fashion week has put its eggs in the green basket like Copenhagen.”
Given that many of the brands gathered at Copenhagen's three fairs, CIFF, Gallery and Vision, are already aware of the need for this change on their own level, we can continue to buy new clothes – with a good conscience – to exchange later.
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EDITORIAL
Contributors PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen Creative & Managing Editor Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson Editorial Assistant / Web Editor Ilse Friborg Graphic Assistant Lukas Højlund
Editorial assistants Nina Guldmann, Rebecca Stahnke, Nina Kristine Charles Jensen WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning FashionForum Naja Helene Hertzum, Hans Gottlieb Simone Kjellegaard, Monica Senker Holbech PHOTOGRAPHERS Mathilde Schmidt Helena Lundquist Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Anne Stenvad Madsen PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
j e w e l l e r y d e s i g n c h a r l o t t e & o l e ly n g g a a r d • w w w. o l e ly n g g a a r d . c o m
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Fast and ferocious The Dansk Daily team has places to go and people to see all during fashion week, so we are constantly on the go. That’s we have partnered with Sixt & Nissan to take us wherever we need — and with a good conscience. We will be conquering Copenhagen Fashion Week in the Nissan Leaf, a 100% electrically driven car. Spot us arriving in our fashionable and sustainable car at the various show venues. www.sixt.dk & www.nissan.dk
Square of fashion Copenhagen Fashion Festival – the open-to-public initiative that runs during Copenhagen Fashion Week – takes over the city square Nytorv in central Copenhagen with a number of fashionable events to let you look amazing the whole week through. At the Festival Square you can get a free blow-out at the TRESemmé styling truck and enjoy some cool drinks on the truck’s rooftop. Get your teeth airflow cleaned by Jordan and participate in Jordan’s gigantic shopping contest. You can also shop new sunglasses from Carrera’s pop-up shop and feel the vibe at the Copenhagen Fashion Festival area at Nytorv from Thursday, August 7 – Saturday, August 10. Every day from 12.00-18.00
One man’s trash is another man’s treasure
It’s time to clean out your closets and trade in your old threads for some new ones. In the name of great fashion scoops and stylish sustainability, Danish Fashion Institute invites you to join its Fashion Exchange. The concept is simple; give what you have, take what you need. Just bring your old clothes or the new ones you never wore and trade your garments with other fashion-conscious souls.
DANSK MAGAZINE’s moussa ADORES Han KjObenhavn
The shape on these specs by Danish brand Han Kjøbenhavn is totally awesome. Fun, cool, and quirky. Want, want, want.
You can trade your way to a brand new wardrobe without spending a penny. The Fashion Exchange aims to promote new sustainable consumption patterns knowing that every year the average Dane discards approximately 15kg of clothes, although most of them are perfectly wearable. By participating you take part in turning the trends of fashion consumption. The event will take place on Saturday, August 10, 10:00 – 16:00, at the City Hall Square.
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No registration needed! www.hankjobenhavn.com
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Inside Copenhagen
GO GO Goya! 5 best restaurants Jan Andersen, CEO and founder of lifestyle and interior design company and brand boutique Normann Copenhagen, has a variety of tasty eateries to suggest for visitors and permanent residents alike. Tivoli Hallen I love the old-fashioned nostalgic ambience. It’s a good place to introduce foreign business relations to Danish ”smørrebrød” (open-face sandwiches). Vester Voldgade. 1.th. The feeling of being at a private dinner party in the period luxury flat is, besides the aesthetic experience, also a different evening out with many delightful dishes and a matching wine menu. Herluf Trolles Gade. Von Fressen Having brunch in this eminent decor, German style with heavy furniture, dim lights and dark floral wallpaper is highly recommendable. Vesterbrogade.
This season Stine Goya is not hosting a fashion show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, but fret not: fans of the iconic clothes will still be able to experience the new SS14 collection in a dedicated Stine Goya universe. The Danish designer is opening her very first flagship store, the Stine Goya Studio, this month. Here you’ll find her signature styles as well as eyewear from the UK brand Larke. The boutique has definitely been long under way but now it’s official: The Stine Goya Studio opens Saturday, August 10 at 11 AM in Gothersgade 58, Copenhagen K. News provided by FashionForum
Muuse x Vogue searching for young talent
Pastis Fishmarket Even before entering, the facade gives you the feeling of a genuine French seafood bistro. I love oysters and they are served here on crushed ice in big dishes, just like a la France. Hovedvagtsgade. Spiseloppen Climbing the stairs in this humble Christiania freetown building, you don’t anticipate finding a good restaurant, but they have som really nice food that goes well with the rather unpretentious atmosphere.
H&M giveback initiative collects tons of old rags. Literally Danish shoppers have donated more than 44 tons of used clothes to the H&M Garment Collecting initiative. And even though that’s still only a fragment of all the used clothes found in the bottom of Danish wardrobes, the people from H&M still appreciate the effort:
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NEWS
“We’re super proud of the result. It shows that there’s a great interest in the initiative even at this early stage,” says a Danish H&M representative to FashionForum.
News provided by FashionForum
Muuse is again shacking up with Italian Vogue in a search for international design talent. The annual competition MUUSE x Vogue Talents Young Vision Awards 2013 has attracted more than 300 young designers and now it’s the public’s turn to enter the polling booths and narrow the field down to 50 semi-finalists. The winner gets to have a capsule collection produced and sold via Muuse.com and everyone voting in the competition has a chance of winning a € 500 gift certificate to the Muuse webshop. Vote via muuse.com/vogue News provided by FashionForum
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20 years of blazing color ”What is Denmark like?,” her international customers kept asking Charlotte Sparre at the fashion fairs in Paris, London and Milano as well as at showrooms in Oslo, Naples, Brussels, Düsseldorf and Madrid, where the designer exhibits her collections. “So I decided to hold a show in Copenhagen in lovely June for my foreign friends, buyers and press, as well as Danish press. Since 83% of my turnover goes to exports, the most important fair for me is the one in Paris in early July. This way I could have photos and videos ready before the buying at the Paris fair – and also I could celebrate my 20th anniversary here.” Thus The National Museum of Art became the venue for showing Charlotte Sparre’s S/S 2014 collection, an appropriately spectacular cultural frame for her specialty – beautiful colorful prints with a message – accompanied by the launch of shoes and bags. Charlotte also wanted to show fellow Danes the reasons for her success abroad, where she is mostly known for her dress designs. Many timid Danes who, until recently, favored more minimalistic, colorless schemes, have not been as receptive as the international crowd to the daring hues that rule the Sparre universe. And indeed the designer had plucked red flowers and rose fern leaves, let blue and green butterflies and dragon flies flutter towards the heavens, made giant yellow paisleys flow to the hem and forced pink lightning to strike – on
turquoise, orange, red, white and black silks, and knits. Pastel-colored houses tumbled on white backgrounds and a crude message I AM A CRAZY BITCH acted as an antidote to all the romance. Casual, in uncomplicated lines – these prints carry it all and need no competition from extra seams or cuts. Sparre’s shows always attract a glamorous crowd, and June’s show was no different, the guest list headed by Prince Joachim and Princess Marie. And just like Helena Christensen, Alek Wek and Naomi Campbell were star models at past shows, the new super Brit, Cara Delevingne, opened and closed the show this time. Over 20 years ago, after originally selling custom jewellery for the hair in a town square in Elsinore and then scarves from silk she had bought in South Korea, Charlotte Sparre started her brand in 1993. She has herself developed the intricate techniques of pattern design, and through her involvement in the Korean factories has learned all about the weaving processes, screen printing the same way as Hermès prints their silks. Several years ago she wisely gave up design of a less successful collection of coats, jackets and suits in heavier wool materials. Bravely carrying on after some bad press and instead continuing with what she is so clever at producing: unique prints in an exploitation of color combinations. A passion which has resulted in several awards and sales in more than 25 countries worldwide.
Anne loves Louis Vuitton’s Parnassea line
Making some noise Noise PR, founded by Stine Kirkegaard Hoffmann, has been chosen as the press liaison for Copenhagen Fashion Week’s national press matters. With both companies’ long history within the industry we are sure that it will be a fashionable match.
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www.louisvuitton.com
news
which includes an updated version of the Sofia Coppola Bag in all kinds of colors but most importantly black.
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REBOOT for DIESEL Hit refresh
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth loves DAY I love DAY’s dressy high heeled boots in goat suede with the little leather collar to give balance in an outfit.
We can’t wait to see what Diesel has in store for us after appointing the edgy young visionary Nicola Formichetti as their new artistic director back in April. Starting with his very first REBOOT project, the former Mugler designer is hitting refresh on Diesel’s imagery and branding. The brand is inviting all consumers to join help the brand create a new set of iconography by contributing with own imagery, inspiration, ideas and artwork through social media. Although all Formichetti’s input won’t be fully integrated until the fall 2014 season, we’ll still get to see a glimpse of the designer’s contribution to the brand on the Diesel REBOOT ad campaign this fall.
www.day.dk
DANSK Magazine had the pleasure of chatting with Mr. Formichetti in the latest issue. Read the exclusive interview in DANSK Magazine AW13.
Sartorial sweets Forging the do’s
David Andersen is known to surprise every season, and this one is no exception, as the multiple-award-winning Danish designer enters a unique and very tasty collaboration with candy manufacturer Haribo. He has designed an exclusive unisex T-shirt in a limited edition that can only be won through Haribo’s Facebook competition. The T-shirts carry David Andersen’s characteristic black color and the same ”Labre Larver”-print as the candy packaging of the caramel-licorice sweet popular for decades. His special design of ”Labre Larver” features a fashionable modern woman who manages to keep her skinny long shape, even in high stilettoes. ”Labre Larver,” actually, is Danish slang for a good-looking woman. The T-shirts also have a leather pocket on the chest giving an edgy touch that appeals to both men and women.
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But the collaboration doesn’t stop there. For his presentation of the new collection, David Andersen made couture dresses with licorice sewn on in the same manner seamstresses adorn garments with pearls, sequins, embroidery and flowers by hand.
For this fashion week, Dansk Daily’s favorite hair team and salon, Mugshot, is representing Label M for the first time at Copenhagen Fashion Week and are serving as key hair artists for returning star Veronica B. Vallenes and powerful newcomer Mi-No-Ro. The team has a history of styling models at Copenhagen Fashion Week, and has also acted as key hair stylists for morning show Go’ Morgen Danmark, and contributed to last season’s Denmark’s Next Top Model. We look forward to what they’re up to next...
www.facebook.com/HARIBOdk
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Helena’s lens power
CREATIVE EDITOR ROZANNA LOVES WOODWOOD aw 13
THE DAILY GEM Throughout the years fine jewelry maker Ole Lynggard Copenhagen has chosen for his campaigns women who have achieved significant results in their lives and careers. The continued partnership with iconic super model Helena Christensen marks the coincidence of matching values and thoughts. Says Ole Lynggaard’s daughter and fellow designer Charlotte Lynggaard:
directed by Herb Ritts, in which she stars opposite the man behind the hit song, Chris Isaak.
- She is a mature woman with power and style, and she is sensual with a natural beauty on top of being a very conscious person. She has an outspoken sense of social responsibility and acts with great care for the environment.
- My favorite pieces are the Lotus amber ring and the coral necklace. The color of the amber makes me smile and the intricate details of the rose gold blows my mind. The necklace is very unusual in its design and adds an original touch to any outfit I wear. Sometimes you cannot explain why a certain piece catches your eye and makes you desire it, some jewelry just touches you in an emotional way. I am delighted to be chosen as spokesperson and model for such a wonderful brand, says Helena Christensen.
The new campaign is photographed by Danish world-class lens man Marc Høm, and he has captured Helena Christensen in a sensual and poetic yet modern atmosphere with references to the famous 1990 music video ”Wicked Game,”
The same 90s delicacy is recreated in the black and white photos that make the selected handcrafted jewelry pieces from the Lotus, Snake, Nature and Evening concepts stand out. The enthusiasm is mutual:
Cool, casual and feminine It has been a mutual attraction for Part Two and loyal casual customers around the world for several decades, and next spring the lifestyle brand cements the relationship between them and lovers of their trademark relaxed fashion. The SS14 look is all about ease, and to underline the strong identity as a casual-wear brand, Part Two has moved to the Vision fair to rub shoulders with other purveyors of contemporary womenswear. The season’s attitude is built around a casual look with silhouettes that play with a loose and relaxed fit in equally smooth fabrics like soft twills, blue washed denims, thin delicate leather, fluid viscose and fine cotton voile. Though the color palette is subtle in corals, sorbet greens, army and accents of blues mixed with more edgy neutrals like black, grey and white, the design balances between the flirty feminine and cool casual.
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The classic cargo and boyfriend fit denim is paired and updated with quiltet sweats, structured knits and pretty lace tops. To prove the flair for urban meets casual, Part Two introduces animal print, giving the collection a playful dimension with zebra, reptile and leopard that will easily transform the wardrobe from day to night.
pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
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D E S I G N S KO L E N KO LDI N G words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Conceptuality revisited
The grand hall of Designmuseum Denmark set the scene for the BA graduates of Kolding School of Design’s show yesterday. Add to that Wednesday’s showcase of work by BA graduates from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design, and the museum has taken on the role of hosting a new throng of designers – it’s a good part to play for the museum, as the venue itself is a historic location for design.
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15 different designers-to-be were showing, displaying three to five looks each. Two of them made menswear – Bjarke Bisgaard explored a more classic menswear look and played with
proportions in pieces that could easily be commercialized and expanded, while Signe Klok moved in a conceptual direction, taking on kinetics and artist Storm P and creating almost industrial, sculptural show pieces. A highly conceptual take was key to a number of these designers, as they showed their creativity and skill, playing with fabrics, proportions and the way garments can alter the body. That notion was central to some; opening the show was Marie Munk’s chunky, pink pieces, inspired by body transformation. Lina Funder explored optical illusions and how clothes can help shape the body – her pink cocoon-like dress was a beautiful example of that. Anne Kro-
mand Krogh’s jacket with glistening rounded studs stood out, just like the sculptural pieces by Christina Catharina Blach. Her paper textiles, folded, printed, and cut so they could pop out and create new shapes held promising. Overall, it’s clear that these BA graduates haven’t yet been corrupted by evil capitalism, and thank god for that. They still have years to perfect and work on their techniques, idioms, processes, and commercialism – and while some constructions could have been better and not everything felt inspiring, it’s clear that there are still creative souls out there, waiting to be discovered.
www.ohbykopenhagenfur.com
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Finnish color celebration
Mari mek ko words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
In 1950, Vilso Ratia founded a textile factory based on his wife, Armi Ratis’s, design of interior materials. The customers loved the designs and wanted to use them as clothes, so the next year the first fashion collection was presented at a show in Helsinki, and Marimekko, meaning “Mary’s dress”, was born.
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At City Hall, the Finnish label, now a lifestyle brand selling all over the world, showed next summer’s collection, and at the same celebrated next year’s anniversary of Marimekko’s iconic “Unikko” flower, designed by Maija Isola in 1964. Up till then, Armi Ratia had insisted on no flower designs – she felt that flowers were prettier in nature – but
she was won over by the Unikko flower – actually quite reminiscent of the Mary Quant Daisy flower launched in London around the same time. For the event, the designer Teemu Muurimäki had created eight styles around the Unikko flower, couture really, where simple straight dresses are decorated with cut-out Unikkos, and short and long evening dresses in pure silk are printed with the unique Marimekko flower in all sizes, from small to huge. Everything is simple in cut, but very colorful of course. Marimekko is not for the faint hearted, but created to enhance joyous lives.
Head designer Noora Niinikoski has used new designs in a lovely, more muted color scheme – like white/rose/mint/black/coral asymmetrically striped on flowing white silk. Or soft red poppies and dusty green leaves grown on white cotton voile. These softer hues contrasted with the traditional Marimekko colors, where lilac and pink gathered-cotton satin skirts danced under loose color-mix silk blouses in brazen patterns. And stripes, checks and circles in lilac, green, red orange, pink and turquoise fought with a mini checked multi-colored mini check – Marimekko like Missoni with a bang.
INWEAR.COM
VISIT US AT VISION STAND 253
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An ode to real women
MI -NO-RO words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Michael Kristensen has always focused on menswear design, whether as designer for COS and Day Birger et Mikkelsen or as consultant for Hugo Boss’s subbrand Hugo. So it was quite a surprise last season when he together with his business partner launched the womenswear brand Mi-NoRo, a label with the key elements: perfect tailoring and great leather – with a dash of jersey.
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This season the brand celebrated its second capsule collection with its first show. The new collection was a celebration of female diversity in the spirit of Femmes Fatales and dedicated to creative career women, taking its cues from Michael’s own circle of friends. As the designer said before his
show when asked who his perfect muse was, “it’s Jean Ahlefeldt Laurvig [who was standing next to us, getting prepared to walk the runway], it’s women who travel a lot, live in the city, who like to dress well with an edge and are powerful and strong, yet with a softer side.” The PR Director & Countess wasn’t the only one of Michael’s friends to model at the show. Most of the Danish jetset ladies would normally be spotted on front row rather than on the catwalk, but like Laurvig and fellow Countess / gallery owner Cath Danneskiold, they had chosen to show their support for their designer friend and replaced the regular runway models.
That choice underlined the essense of the collection. It was beautifully tailored, with plenty of well fitted leather styles, like the black leather shirt matched with a leather pencil skirt that opened the show, or the coral slim leather coat with a storm flap in the back worn over a short coral jersey dress. And of course there were several references to menswear design, like the slim leather pants with a tight fitted blazer or the black halterneck top mixed with wide high-waisted pants. Among the standouts was also a perforated leather lace top mixed with a pleated leather skirt.
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ANNE SOF I E Twisted elegance M ADSE N words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
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SHOWS
Variations of “she’s done it again,” and “she’s one of the best,” buzzed about the front row after Anne Sofie Madsen had taken her bow – others proclaimed that the silhouettes were recognizable, and true, the illustrations and intricate, ornamented sheer dresses have been seen before. Does that make them any less beautiful or dreamy? No – singer Oh Land dressed in one of them on the front row was proof. And, one might add, she did give us newness and wearability (as much as that can be spoken of here, anyway). Still, it was pleasant to see one of Madsen’s most hardcore collections to date, a schizophrenic experience of dimensions.
Titled “Post-Human Speed” Madsen took us on a journey embarking to Japan and touching down on motocross, Chris Cunningham’s short film Rubber Johnny, and a 90s aesthetic so screamingly corny-cool it would have made Lisa Left Eye clap her hands in excitement, had she still been alive. Contortion of the human body was an important theme here, with the heavy leather pieces sculpting shoulders and necks. With almost everything held in black, white, and a little brown, it was a hardcore departure from last spring’s pink femininity.
“I’ve been working with an exclusive type of leather with Ecco, and that’s given me new possibilities,” Madsen stated backstage. Ornamented leather dresses held together with string and boxy motocross-inspired jackets, almost armor-like, were proof of that, while a soft, short black/white dress and beautiful patterned knit pieces were among the more commercial parts of the collection, adding a sporty touch with inserts of mesh. Mixed with the beautiful silver jewelry handmade by Trine Tuxen, it was a stunning display of power and something that might move Madsen to explore even more uncharted territory.
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VISIT US AT HOLMEN – GALIONSVEJ 39, 1437 KØBENHAVN K / SELECTED.COM
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B AUM UND PFE R DGART EN words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Art as fashion
Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave have always had a special approach to design, their very own quite intellectual way of thinking fashion – inventive and humorous. For Baum und Pferdgarten’s summer 2014 collection, the design duo was inspired by the artist Vilhelm Lundstrøm’s paintings, whose electric blue, orange, apple green and morning light colors dominated in silk, linen, cotton, sequins and the most gorgeous heavy/light orange and white lace.
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A photo of two cool business city girls were translated into stripes and a kaleidoscope of intricate squares – all held in the Lundstrøm
colour scheme. Crown Princess Mary admired the interesting new prints, every pattern designed by Rikke and Helle, also the ever-trendy leopard, which comes in all the different materials – both in the animal’s signature colors and in blue. It looked absolutely great, especially in mother-of-pearl sequins lined in cornflower blue. The leopard reigns supreme also as a quilted coat and in next season’s must-have dress – in loosely gathered swaying silk.
Details are a B & P speciality – contrasting insets, edgings, or side-seam panels are added to every pattern: a striped blue ruffle falls across the front of a checked blue dress; orange bands shines bright as inset bands on a light-grey heavy fleece coat and a white lace T-shirt adds white leather with a touch of romance. Since their comeback, their economy having been rejuvenated in 2008, Baum und Pferdgarten’s turnover has increased with 10 percent every year. Owing to becoming and wearable design that so deserves it.
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WOOD Marble arch WOOD
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words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Copenhagen cool kids Wood Wood showed their new collection at the beautiful venue of Glyptoteket. A fitting place to host a show, seeing that one of the collection’s main inspirations was Versailles.
Wood Wood isn’t about high fashion or snobby attitudes, but it’s still one of the most hyped brands – they speak to the Scandinavian mood, that casual, relaxed, fun laissezfaire.
“We went to Versailles and looked at the decadence, the marble, the columns. But at the same time, we were taken by the stringent minimalism seen in the garden,” designer Lotte Bank explained prior to the show, adding that they also visited the minimalist house of Le Corbusier. The visit to Versailles sparked a marble print seen in many pieces, while columns of geometric shapes lined the sides of shorts, shirts and sweaters.
At the same time, sport was a central theme. They’ve made tight clothes for running this season that can also be used on the streets. This season’s camel-colored track suit will be an instant hit, while the new leather jacket for men with light blue suede and black leather is über-cool. “A new suit,” the designers ex-
plained of the sporty men’s suit opening the show, mesh giving it a relaxed feel. They clearly believe in new proportions: sleeves were cut off just above the elbow, while cropped pajamas suits with broad leg width can speak to the young girls at Nørrebro and old Ivan Grundahl fans at the same time. Wood Wood mixes the feminine and the sporty, oversize, casual cool, and they’re damn good at it. As a fashion show, yesterday’s may not have been as groundbreaking and hardhitting as last season’s home run, but they fought for their right to be exactly what they are: one of Scandinavia’s coolest go-to places for that Copenhagen feel.
Visit us at Vision
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BLike RUUNS a flower child B A Z AAR words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
It has become a tradition for Bruuns Bazaar to host their August show in the beautiful courtyard of their head office, and somehow it’s a bit like coming home each year. This season, there was a new buzz in the courtyard. Lene Borggard, who was part of Bruuns Bazaar in the early days and who lately has been Head of Design at Inwear, has returned to Bruuns Bazaar now as Creative Director. Even though Borggard has only been in the leading chair since June 1, there was a tangible anticipation that we would get a hint of the brand’s new direction.
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The collection was true to the Bruuns Bazaar
DNA both on the men’s and women’s side, and the references to the collection’s title ‘Baubotanik’ was easily spotted both in floral prints and the color palette. The women’s collection sported familiar long clean silhouettes and simple lines, but a new focus on the waistline replaced the previously androgynous shapes. There was plenty of pink, as in the checked silk shorts mixed with a grey jersey with a flower embroidered in the front or a bright shift dress with matching pink shoes. Another favorite was the pinstriped wide pants with a matching top and an inset dusty blue suede – and of course there were the florals, a highlight especially in the knit
with the printed leather front and the cropped cigarette pants with matching top. The men’s collection featured a mix of sharply cut tailored suits, all with cropped pants showing off shoes with contract colored laces and soles, and Bermuda shorts combined ¾ long summer coats with patched pockets. After the show, Lene Borggard highlighted the round glasses as one of the points in the styling that she felt gave the collection a more idiosyncratic twist. And her future vision would be to keep the clean lines while adding a bit more attitude. Lene, we’ll be watching you next season!
INTRODUCING 9 NEW MUUSE EDITIONS Visit us at CIFF, Style Setters, Stand E025
Producing and Selling Collections for the World's Most Visionary New Designers WWW.MUUSE.COM
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DESIGNER S Under the sea REM I X
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words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Designers Remix has always been a master of locations, and this time was no exception. Yesterday’s show took place at the brandnew aquarium ’The Blue Planet’ close to Copenhagen Airport, and what an amazing experience it was as hammerheads, stingrays and exotic fish were around and above us, while models strutted down the runway to the tunes of whale song, inspired by the late 80s movie ‘Le Grand Bleu’.
tail dress sculpted with rouleau, followed by another black dress with a boxer back in the front, giving a sporty feel; a different kind of black lace was used to create a trompe l’oeil fishnet effect. And there were more dresses, some in black, a few in acid green, some in print, whether coral-like or as reinterpretations of camouflage like the skin of a stone fish, while some were pearly metallic like the inside of a mussel.
And what a collection – the show was opened by Danish top model Caroline Brasch Nielsen in a black body-hugging fish-
If it wasn’t black diver-inspired wetsuit references and futuristic materials like foam and rubber, it was white-and-pearl-colored mate-
rials folded and draped like seashells. There were also hints of 80s grunge in the collection, including the quilted leather biker vest and short skirt and the oversize jersey that looked like washed denim. And not to mention all the theme-appropriate accessories. It was a dangerous exercise that easily could have ended as a Disney cliché, but it definitely didn’t – instead it was a wellexecuted show where the location smoothly underlined the theme of the collection, a beautiful one that stands among Designers Remix’s best to date – a job well done!
DENMARK’S ONLY real OUTLET VILLAGE HOME TO DANISH AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS
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Fa sh i o n kn ow - i t - a l l C hri s Ped ers en t rie s to curb h is a n t ici pa t i o n fo r s eei n g t he C o u g a r C o unte ss C outure Ca t wa l k a t t he M i -N o -Ro s how l a t e r th at day.
C ove r bl ogge rs C re ol Broth e rs , Kriss & Mads , l ive by the motto re -fre s h to death , and we ’ re s ure th e re -freshments s e r ve d at fas h ion we e k s , l ate -morning afte r -parti es and ch ampagne b r unch e s w il l h e l p th e m do jus t that.
If you though t t h a t t h e n e w g en era t i o n o f bl o g g ers , a s s een here in C ille S m e d, G u st av a n d fri en d, i s a bo u t t o t a ke over, you’re dea d wro n g. T hey a l rea dy have. Why weren’ t we invited t o f a sh io n b ru n ches w hen we were 9 yea rs ol d ?
T h e numb e r one pe rs on b e h ind th e E mma L e th ph e nome non, E mma L e th , is one h al f of C ove r bl ogge r duo Se mi Fe mi.
Scoop mod el’s B ente Lund qui st wi th hubby Jesper Lund qui st are Cover brunch regulars.
Everyone’s f avori te blog g er/sceneshaker F i ona Pai n i s back wi th a vengeance thi s season wi th lots of new tri cks up her sleeve and hat, pi ctured here wi th aspi rati onal blog g er f ri end.
C OV ER BRU N C H Photos – H e lena Lund quist
Words – Magnus Jorem
As has become tradition, Cover Magazine and its company Malling Publications hosted a hip and cheerful fashion brunch on Thursday during CFW.
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
Fa sh io n de sig n e r, s t y l e m en t o r a n d C o pen ha g en leg e n d B e t t in a B a kd a l fl a s hed t hi s s ea s o n’ s bl o n d e look a cco m p a n ie d by fri en d w i t h a cheeky a t t i t u d e.
D J S e b a st ia n M a cDa d dy ca refu l ly a d ju s t s t he ba ss k nob so t h a t t h e D J T i es t o rem i x o f M i l ey Cy r u s’ s s u bt le pop h it “ We Ca n’ t S t o p” fa d es i n ever s o s m o o t hly.
Mal l ing P ubl ications’ Mal e ne Mal l ing and Gre ge rs e n C ommuni cati ons’ C h ris tian Gre ge rs e n in ch e e rful conve rs ation ab out th e deli ghts of me ntoring al l th e ir h ope ful inte rns .
Hair artis t Me tte T h ors gaard and DJ L e Gamme l toft h adn’ t a clue w h e re th e y we re .
Gard erobepi g en Tri ne of Denmark’s top f ashi on blog Tri ne’s Ward robe, pi ctured here wi th Emi l f rom Group 8 8 .
Stephani e of B 5 6 , Anywho & Anywear and f ri end are crazy enough to juxtapose sporty style elements wi th g raphi c f emi ni ne elements.
B E Y O
N D
N O RM A L
AU TU MN / WINTER 2 013 I SS UE 30
NADJ A BEN DER in C h an el h au te c ou tu re
DANSK AW 13 ISSUE OUT NOW
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Industry insider As Øland is the undisputed queen of front-row exhilaration, here pictured with equally excited colleague Betina.
To ward off those pesky rumors that she was born in an alien laboratory, Alexandra Carl, stylist at Scoop, keeps flashing that belly button.
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s very own Anne Christine Persson, global ambassador of Danish fashion for Style.com, with puppy Ivan in black leather bag.
Jeanette, booker at Scoop, is minimalist in everything from color choice to silhouette, facial expression to life force. Actress Ellen Hillingsøe and Crown Princess Mary were positively stunned to be allowed seats on the front row.
B RU UNS B A Z a AR P hotos – H e lena Lund quist
B r u u n s B azaar h it th e s h ow cal e ndar w ith ful l force th is we e k w ith a re turni ng d esi gner...
Julie, Gertrud, Malene, and Chris feel they need no further introduction.
Tip of the hat, wag of the finger to excentric fashion week goer James Goldstein, who finally returned to Copenhagen after several seasons errant. Your outfits have been dearly missed.
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
Blogger Yu Masui slapped every bypasser who claimed his shirt bore a Frankenstein print.“Don’t you know? Frankenstein was the name of the MONSTER’s CREATOR!?” was a line heard frequently.
Channeling Comme des Filles chic for the new season. Chris Martha from In* Tandem Magazine refused to share his fabulously patterned anti-mosquito comfort carpet with pals Patrick Duffy and The Telegraph’s Sophie Warburton.
The mysterious Mr Qui and his accomplice.
Dansk Daily editor-in-chief Elsebeth and stylist Anette Hvidt took in the botanical inspiration with deep breaths and a longing for the new season.
Blogger Pernille Teisbæk is going for the pencil pose this season.
DAFI’s Cecilie Thorsmark loves herself some leather-jacketed male realness, in this case Leif Mikkelsen.
The gorgeous Ivona Bruun flanked by the Bruun brothers themselves, Teis and Bjørn.
FRONT ROW Words – Magnus Jorem
... a fl ock of famous face s and a courtyard th at re mains th e pe rfe ct venue.
Industrial designer Marcus Hannibal felt like the events alpha male next to Samsøe-Samsøe’s Gitte Wetter and Mia Kappelgaard.
Perhaps Denmark’s biggest power player, Margrethe Vestager, with probable offspring / future fashion blogger. Much like magician David Copperfield, Beate Bille always knows to show her “good side,” although honestly, noone else can spot the difference.
Designer Susanne Rützou was sashaying dramatically through the locale but stopped for a dress-swaying pose in front of our camera.
Returning to Bruuns this year was designer Lene Borggard, whose years perfecting the art of baubotanik finally paid off sartorially.
Brian Mikkelsen is the former minister of culture, the former minster of law, and, having been stripped of his ministerial powers last election, is now hopelessly addicted to Scandinavian fashion.
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HRH Princess Mary, royally impressed by the CIFF display, in deep sartorial talks with Designers Remix’s Charlotte Eskildsen and the namesakes of GrenaaBuchard, Kim and Uffe.
Mi-No-Ro designer Michael Kristensen has more Countess friends than you have fingers and proved it with yesterday’s show, which was opened by none other than the phenomenon that is Cath Danneskiold.
Group88’s Helle Wang and stylist Lousie Amstrup came to bag up a season’s worth of inspiration.
CIFF-director Kristian W. Andersen (no relation to fancy men’s dress designer J. W. Anderson) and PR maven Janne Villadsen had opted for a new way of showcasing trends this season.
In an inspirational display of DIY-fierceness, Copenhagen Fashion Week TV hostess Amelia Hoy had converted her former IKEA bed sheets into a black-and-brown minimal dress of clean geometrical beauty.
CIFF DA NSK DIRECTION Photos – S ofie B A RF O ED
Words – Magnus Jorem
Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) had chosen a new approach to trend forecasting this season, opting for an archetypes-based approach directed by DANSK Magazine and receiving royal company as a result.
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
Bloggers Frede and Adélie of the Bisou Family of sharp fashion pens and cameras share their daily sartorial exploits with the ignorant masses.
HRH P rince ss Mar y in cons e r vative pol k a dot creation th at s creame d auth oritative pre s e nce and dis ce rning tas te .
Ferocious queen of ALT for Damerne's fashion department with co-worker Camilla Larsson and Lot #29-owner Cille Kølpin.
One wonders why the designers behind Baum und Pferdgarten, Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten, didn’t call the label Hestebaum und Havegarten, you know, for the sake of equality?
DANSK Magazine’s Rozanna lives and breathes for uncompromising flashes of chromatic excellence.
Eurowoman’s Gertrud Bønnelykke and Anne Lose know that real prestige still lies in print media.
See you next SeaSon!
aw14 29 january -—2 februar, 2014
#CPHFW
copenhagenfashionweek.com
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H U G O B O S S’ s Ken t H a n s en a n d Lisa S ju h ol m cl ea rly d o t he re d ca rp e t t h i n g ever y week.
Ac t i n g tal e nt C h ris tiane Sch aumb urg-Mül l e r is s ec ret ly pl otting a s trike on C N N ’ s C h ris tiane Am a n pour to ach ie ve a h igh e r gl ob al C h ris tiane ra n ki n g ; s e e n h e re w ith frie nd and Gre naaBuch ard fas h ion mave n K im Gre naa.
Al t for Dame rne ’ s Li ne Hi nd sg aul and P l eas ure Magazine’s M ari e Kauf holz h ave mas te re d th e art of qui rky-casuall ook -at-my -b ody -angles-but-noti ce-I’mnot-real ly -tr yi ng poseatology.
Swed es Dag and Cathri ne f rom Nord i ska Kompani et d on’t d ri nk the Kool-Ai d.
HUGO BOSS Photos – H e lena Lund quist
Words – Magnus Jorem
H UG O ce l e b rate d its 20-year annive rs ar y ye s te rday at th e Royal Danish Playhouse w ith an exclus ive dinne r and afte r -party for indus tr y h igh rol lers .
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
Rap p e r Je sp e r D a h l a . k. a . Jokeren w i t h m ode l girlf rie n d a n d Da n s k Da i ly S/ S09 cove r girl Lo u ise P a u d i t i o n ed fo r the p art s o f Lo rd o f t he R i n g s cha ra c t ers Arag o rn a n d Arwe n ba ck i n 2001.
L a rs N il s e n and Frank Skovgaard of webs h op mr.dk cl e nch th e ir ‘ ch e e k s t o g et h e r in eage r anticipation of b e ing m i s t ake n for Dutch fas h ion de s igne rs Vik tor & Rol f.
Pe t e r H u s t ed fra L a kri d s s ha res a t en d er re d ca rp e t m o m en t w i t h Da n s k Da i ly rev i ewer Sil l e H e n n in g in bu rg u n dy pa ja m a s - chi c G a n n i ge tup.
T h e h uman e mb odime nt of the Fred eri k Ande rs e n conce pt, Fre d eri k And ersen, w ith Euroman col l eague Cami lla Høg and s moochy ad mi rer.
O rganic cream que e n Andrea E l is ab e th Rudol ph , pur veyor of s us tainabl e luxur y for th e e nv ironme ntal ly cons cious ch atte ring cl ass e s , w ie l ding a poorly conceal e d “ s e l f de fense” cudge l in h e r clutch b ag.
Styli st Emi ly Johansson wi th blogg erphenomenon-slash-one-woman style revoluti on Perni lle Tei sbæk.
Costume magazi ne’s M ai ken Wi nther and Ri kke Chri stensen never get si ck of new vari ati ons of monochrome f ashi ons and carry the non-hued banner to new hei ghts each season.
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Re el of C F W Rea lne ss
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REEL OF CFW
Feel like you missed out on any of the Copenhagen Fashion Week action? Here are some of the shots Dansk Daily’s photographer Mathilde Schmidt snapped throughout the week that bring you front- and backstage, take you out and about, and give you the low-down on the down-low.
Hemmeligheden bag silkebløde ben Veet Easy Wax System - et professionelt designet, selvopvarmende vokssystem, der giver dig glatte og silkebløde ben i op til 28 dage.
Så nemt er det:
1
Den selvopvarmende applikator opvarmer voksen til den rigtige temperatur.
2
Herefter påfører du voksen og bruger de medfølgende strips til at fjerne den.
Fri for parabener
3
Så nemt er det at få et perfekt resultat, der holder i op til 28 dage.
What beauty feels like
VeetEasyWax-DanskDaily266x370.indd 1
15/07/13 11.42
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e v en t s Friday - August 09, 2013
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK 09.00-11.00 Ganni summer event Fre de rik s h ol m K anal 4B, C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only 10.00-13.00 DANSK C ol l ective Borge rgade 111, C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only 11.00-14.00 T HE JEWELLERY RO OM D e si g n Soci e ty · H.C. Ande rs e ns Boul e vard 27, C ope nh age n K · by i nvi tati on only 11.00-14.00 C IFF KIDS T rend Show B e lla C e nt e r , H hall · C e nte r Boul e vard 5, C ope nh age n S · O pe n to vi si tors at CIF F KIDS 14 . 0 0- 15 . 00 ST INE GOYA Store O pening + SS14 Sneak P eek ( for press on ly) Stin e Goya F lag shi p Stor e · Goth e rs gade 58, C ope nh age n K · by i nvi tati on only 16 . 0 0- 18 . 00 Book Launch: IBEN HoJ Unravel l ed – a decade of fine threads Galle ry I nt. Fashion Fair , Forum · Jul ius T h oms e ns P l ads 1, Fre de rik sberg · by i nvi tati on only 17 . 0 0- 20.00 SHO ESHIBAR presents: SS14 / / O pening Reception Kompagnis træde 20 C, C ope nh age n K · ope n for al l 17 . 0 0- 18 . 00 Launch of the power jewel l ery by JEWLSC P H & Hjerteforeningen T h e squar e by T h e B isho p s Arms and K assandr a S ho e s · Ny Ø s te rgade 1 4 , Copenhag en K · open f or all 17 . 0 0- 21 . 00 Won Hundred and P ede & Stoffer - Fashion Week Yard Party P e d e & Stoff e r · K l os te rs træde 9, C ope nh age n K 18.00-20.00 RELEASE EV ENT C O UP LES# 1 N ø rga ard · Amage rtor v 13-15, C ope nh age n K 18 . 0 0- 20 . 00 Kopenhagen Fur, DM&T and C rystal Hall Reception Dansk M ode & Te x til · Fre de riciagade 21, C ope nh age n K · by invi tati on only 18.00-20.00 C over / Fil ippa K Ny Ø s te rgade 13 (b ack yard) , C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only 20.00-23.00 C IFF Networking Dinner TO LD B O D E N · N ordre Tol db od 24, C ope nh age n K · by inv itati on only 23.00-04.00 DANSK fest K B 3 · Kødb ode rne 3, C ope nh age n V · ope n for al l 21 . 3 0- 05 . 00 WO N H U N D R ED / / SP OT DING(DK) DANDY DIARY(DE) LIV INCOOL( UK ) // CFW PARTY S S 14 S imons · Store Strands træde 14, C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only 23.00-04.00 House of vans N ikolaj kunsthal · N ikol aj pl ads 10, C ope nh age n K · by inv i tati on only
COPENHAGEN FASHION festival friday - August 09 17.30 V eet Stil etto Run · Amage rtor v, C ope nh agen K 18.00 Shoe Fight · Kronprins e ns gade , C ope nh age n K 17 . 0 0- 19 . 00 Saint T ropez Bl ogger C asting · Vimme l s k af tet 4 3 , Copenhagen K 16 . 0 0- 18 . 00 Magasin X Soul l and X Simons · Konge ns Ny torv 1 3 , Copenhag en K 16 . 0 0-22.00 H&M DJ T unes · Køb mage rgade + Amage rtor v, Copenhag en K 18.00-22.00 Street Part y at · Kronprins e ns gade , C openhagen K 21 . 3 0- 05.00 Bri l l el ook X Louis Niel sen · Tol db ode n, Copenhagen K DAILY EV ENTS 12 . 0 0- 18 .00 T RESemmE Bl owO ut BaR · Gamme l tor v /Ny tor v - get a f ree blow! 12 . 0 0- 18 . 00 Jordan Airf l ow - Your smil e Your Sty l e · Gammeltorv/ Nytorv 12.00-18.00 C arrera P op -up Shop · Gamme l tor v / Nytorv La G l ace X Moonspoon Sal ooon Macaroons · Skoub ogad e 3 , Copenhag en K Muuse X T indI · Sank t Ge rtr uds Stræde 6, C ope nh age n K Magasin X C l osed P op Up
s h ow sChedule
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SHOW SCHEDULE / EVENTS
by invitations only
11 . 0 0 Stine l adefoged · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, Copenhag en K 12 . 0 0 V eronica B. Val l enes · N I M B · Be rns torffs gade 5, Copenhag en V 13 . 0 0 BARBARA I GO NGINI · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, Copenhagen K 15 . 0 0 D esigners ’ N est · T h e V ision Gard e n , Lokomotivvæ rkst e d e t · Otto B usses Vej 5 A, Copenhagen SV 16 . 00 Fre ya Dal sjo · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, C op enhagen K 19 . 0 0 Moonspoon Sal oon · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, Copenhag en K 20 . 0 0 Wa l i M ohammed Barrech · Halmlag e r e t, Carlsb e rg · Ny Carlsberg Vej 8 4 , Copenhag en V
For mor e ev e nts and show d e tails g o to www. co p e n h a g enf a shionf estiva l. com
ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN
h t t p : / / w w w. i r o n f l a g . n e t