http://fixtheclimate.com/uploads/tx_templavoila/peggy2 by Copenhagen Consensus Center

PegGY 2.0: A Light Emitting Pegboard Display Panel Kit An open-source hardware+software project designed by

Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories M aking the World a Better Place, One Evil M ad Scientist at a Time

Support: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/

Distributed by Evil Mad Science LLC

Kit version 2.0 Manual v. 2.0A

Intro + Tour Hi, I’m Peggy! Peggy is a tough and versatile LED “pegboard” display that can drive a few or a lot of LEDs for almost any purpose. Peggy can run on batteries or external power. Peggy is programmable, open source and hackable. Peggy can be the one to figure out how to drive all your LEDs.

Mounting holes: Top center: Hang it on a nail. Top 1/4 & 3/4: hang it on a string. Corner mounting holes are 0.141” in diameter and are located 1/4x1/4” from each of the corners.

LED Field: Peggy can fit up to 625 of your favorite LEDs in a big rectangular grid. Each LED location has room for a 10 mm LED, although smaller 5 mm (T-1 3/4, “standard size”) and 3 mm LEDs will work just as well. Each LED location is numbered by its row and column location.

Printed circuit board: Outline: 11.320” x 14.875” (About 28.8 x 37.8 cm) (US Quarter for scale)

Transistors and resistors along bottom edge of LED field.

CPU: ATmega168, a type off AVR microcontroller

(Also: Programming interfaces, places to put switches, and more.)

Bottom center and right: power management, optional button locations, and chips that peggy uses to address the LEDs.

Detailed tour: Lower left corner of board U4 and U5: STP16DP05 LED driver chips. The microcontroller uses these to control the rows of the display. (Over what’s called an “SPI” interface.)

U1: ATmega168 microcontroller, in a socket. Extra, labeled holes are provided on all of the pins for your hacking pleasure.

USB-TTL interface If you have a USB-TTL cable, you can use this port to program or communicate with Peggy, much like you would with an Arduino.

Breadboard-style Prototype area!

Clock area: Crystal oscillator and two little helper capacitors. [Crystal location has three pins, just in case you wanted to use a 3-pin ceramic resonator instead.]

AVR-ISP interface 6-pin connector can hook up to your AVR in-system programmer, if ya got one.

Buttons! Reset and “OFF/SELECT” buttons are standard. “Off” is only a software mode-- only mostly off. To save power, use the switch instead.

If reprogramming the display, you may want to add an “Any” key for activating your own purposes.

Detailed Tour: Lower right end of board

Row of transistors Row of resistors

U2 and U3: CD74HC154’s “Demultiplexer” helper chips that the microcontroller uses to drive the columns of the display.

Battery box goes here

J2, S3: External power Power jack + switch locations. The switch chooses the power source: Internal (battery) or external (from the power jack.) Battery power: On to the right External power: On to the left.

Extra locations for optional buttons Not much for these to do on a static LED display, but maybe, if you were reprogramming the display, these could be made to do something interesting.

What do you make of this? Our standard assembly instructions, beginning on the next page, will produce a static â&#x20AC;&#x153;pegboardâ&#x20AC;? display, that will light up LEDs in whichever locations you choose to install them, with near-uniform current applied to each LED. They will be driven in an energy-efficient multiplexed arrangement, which makes an easy LED display when you put your LEDs in just the locations where you want them. Adding additional functionality, for example, turning on specific LEDs or making simple animation or a true interactive display, can be done by reprogramming the display through one of the two provided interfaces.

Hardware hackers may want to flip through the schematics (pages 13-15) before going further to see if inspiration strikes. A wide variety of hacks, mods, and improvements are possible; the circuitry was designed with hacking in mind. A prototype area is provided to add extra components and extra access holes have been added to allow direct access to the microcontroller pins.

If you do wish to reprogram the display... two different types of external interface are supported. A 6-pin ISP interface (J1) lets you program the board using an in-system programmer, for example the USBtinyISP by Adafruit Industries. This interface is supported through the AVR-GCC toolchain As a second option, the display can be programmed through the Arduino software environment (www.arduino.cc), using an FTDI USB-TTL serial interface cable, which attaches at location J3.

Assembly: First steps

(Lower left corner of printed circuit board)

RA1, RA2

1. Add resistor RA4 A 5.1 k resistor (Green-Brown-Red-Gold) Implied procedure for components like this: • Bend the leads of a resistor as shown • Place it in the circuit board, at its location • Solder the two pins from the back side • Clip off extra leads on back side.

2. Add resistors RA1, RA2 1.0 k resistor (Brown-Black-Red-Gold), installed in 2 places.

RA4

3. Add resistors RB0-RB24 100 ohm resistors (Brown-Black-Brown-Gold) in a row of 25 that stretches across the board.

Assembly: Adding the sockets

(Lower left corner of printed circuit board)

4. Install socket for chip U1. A 28-pin DIP socket (the long chip socket) Orientation matters: Match the â&#x20AC;&#x153;half-moonâ&#x20AC;? shape at one end of the socket to the one drawn on the circuit board. Tight fit: These sockets snap flush into place, so they stay put when you turn the board upside down to solder them. Make sure that the orientation is correct, that every pin is in the right hole and then press uniformly and firmly to seat it. Solder every pin of the socket in place.

5. Install sockets for chips U2, U3, U4, and U5. 24-pin DIP sockets, installed in four locations Follow the same procedure as in Step 5.

Assembly: Next steps

(Lower left corner of printed circuit board)

6. Add crystal oscillator XTL A shiny steel can. The two pins go in the outer two holes of location XTL; ignore the middle hole. (Orientation: Either way.)

C1 & C2

7. Install capacitors C1 & C2 18 pF ceramic caps, 2 places.

(Orientation: Either way.) [The labels on these tiny capacitors are not useful; these are the two little caps attached together.]

XTL

S1 & S2

8. Add tactile button switches S1 and S2 Match the parts to the drawing on the circuit board. Orientation: pins stick out on left and right sides, not top and bottom.

9. (Optional) Add headers J1 and/or J3 These connectors are only needed if you plan to reprogram your Peggy with an external interface.

Solder all four pins of each switch.

J1: a 6-pin DIL header for use with an AVR-ISP programmer J3: a 6-pin SIL header for use with a USB-TTL cable Tight fit: These headers sit snugly in the holes so that they stay in place when you turn the board upside down to solder them. Press firmly to seat them.

6-pin DIL (2x3) header (J1)

6-pin SIL (1x6) header (J3)

Assembly: Transistors and more capacitors

Q0-Q24

10. Add transistors Q0-Q24. 2N5401 transistors, installed in 25 places.

Orientation matters. Match the flat face of the transistors to the drawing on the board.

Flat face

11. Install capacitor C3 1000 uF electrolytic cap Orientation matters. The NEGATIVE side of the + capacitor is marked with a broad white stripe. Solder it with this negative side towards “-” on the circuit board.

12. Install capacitors C4 through C10 0.1 uF ceramic caps installed in 7 locations (Orientation: Either way.)

Again, the labels are tiny. If your eyes are very good, you might be able to make out the legend “104.”

Assembly: Switch + Chips 13. Install power switch S3 High-power slider switch in one location. S3 only fits loosely into its holes; you will need to rest the board on it or hold it manually while you solder it in place.

Location for external optional power jack

JP1 is an optional location to “hotwire” across the switch to run permanently off of battery power or other power applied to the Aux DC inputs. In normal usage, it should be left empty.

14. Add microcontroller U1 The ATmega168 chip goes in the 28-pin socket from step 4. Orientation-- very important-- Half-moon end of chip matches that of socket and the drawing on the circuit board

From end of chip:

If necessary, bend the leads of the chip to straight up and down before inserting the chip into the socket. Do not bend them by hand; bend all pins on one side at a time by pushing them against a hard flat surface. The chip goes into the socket with firm, even pressure.

(Adding your own external power? Make sure it’s 4.5 - 5 V DC, well regulated, protected, and capable of sourcing at least 600 mA.)

YES

15. Install chips U2 and U3 Press two CD74HC154 chips into their sockets Follow the guidelines from step 14; orientation is very

important. As usual, match the half-moon end to the half-moon end on the socket and board.

16. Install chips U4 and U5 Press two STP16DP05 chips into their sockets (You should know the routine by now!)

Install Battery Box 17. Add battery box Held in place with cable ties, wired up with a pair of wire jumpers.

(Note: If you have an alternate power source, e.g., you plan to run from an AC adapter all the time, you can skip this step without ill effect.)

“Solder lug” at positive terminal of battery box

(Positive terminal)

Battery box goes here. Pay attention to the orientation!

Attach to circuit board with cable ties through the double hole sets

(Negative terminal)

Add a zero-ohm jumper from the solder lug to the GND_IN pin on the board.

“Solder lug” at negative terminal of battery box Then, repeat for the positive terminal of the battery box, hooking up to VCC_IN1.

Note: when soldering to the two solder lugs, be quick-- the plastic of the battery box can (and will) melt if you aren’t careful.

Assembly: Adding LEDs 18. Add LEDs to the LED field. The board accommodates up to 625 LEDs in standard sizes up to 10 mm. 3 mm, 5 mm, and 8 mm LEDs will work just fine. Put them where you like, or everywhere.

LED Field

For standard types of LEDs, the long lead goes in the square hole (the one on the left), and the flat face of the LED package matches the drawing on the circuit board. For reference, each LED location is labeled DXXYY, where XX is the row number and YY is the column number. If you do not fill all the holes and wish to blacken the unused labels, a black permanent marker works well.

Flat face Long lead into square hole

Bend out

Long lead

Alternative build idea: put all the LEDs on the back side of the circuit board for truly bare background. In this scheme, the long lead still goes in the square hole.

Bend down

Where the grid really wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do, you can put LEDs between grid locations. Which ever way you do it, the side of each LED with long lead still goes to square hole. Side with flat still goes to round hole. This procedure is recommended mainly for static signs and LED displays; putting LEDs between grid locations can make programming those grid locations more complicated.

Wrapping it up! Last step: Add the rubber feet Attach one rubber foot in each corner on the back side of the circuit board, and a couple closer to the middle, to protect against bending when you press buttons-- make sure that the circuit board lies flat on these bumpers, not on wire leads. The feet will help to avoid accidental short circuits, as well as protect your wall if you hang it up by a hook or string.

An open-source project The hardware and software designs used in this project are being released under an open-source license. For more information, please see: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/peggy2 Example firmware is available for download, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to see what you can do with it!

Got pictures? If you have interesting pictures or video of things built using this kit or the hardware or software designs, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to see them in the Evil Mad Science Auxiliary: http://www.flickr.com/groups/evilmadscience/

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5 V DC regulated, 1.2 A, 2.1 mm plug 2.1 mm power jack, Int’l power jack

T946-P5P-ND CP-002AH-ND

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Digi-Key# Value Type QTY Peggy 2.0 N/A 1 5.1KQBK-ND 5.1 k Resistor, 1/4 W 1 1.0KQBK-ND 1k Resistor, 1/4 W 2 100 ohm Resistor, 1/4 W 100QBK-ND 25 28-pin DIP socket 3M5480-ND 1 24-pin DIP socket 3M5478-ND 4 16 MHz oscillator crystal 631-1108-ND 1 18 pF Capacitor, ceramic BC1004CT-ND 2 Tactile Button Switch SW400-ND 2 WM26806-ND 6-pin DIL header ISP connector 1 6-pin SIL header TTL Connector 1 2N4401D26ZTR-ND 2N5401 Transistor 25 1000 uF, 10 V Cap., electrolytic P5127-ND 1 0.1 uF Capacitor, ceramic BC1148CT-ND 7 high-power slider, SPDT! CKC5107-ND 1 ATmega168-20PU Microcontroller (pre- ATMEGA168-20PU-ND 1 programmed in kits) CD74HC154EN 296-9181-5-ND 2 STP16DP05B1R LED driver 2 3 x D cell BH3DL-ND 1 Cable ties, 4.5”x0.1”, black RP202C-ND 2 Zero-ohm jumpers (Wires that look like 0.0QBK-ND 2 resistors with one black stripe.) Through-hole LEDs. 3mm, 5mm or 10 up to N/A mm-- not included with kit. 625 McMaster Carr 95495K66 N/A 6 Leave empty or hack things in, at your discretion.

Peggy v 2.0: A light emitting pegboard designed by Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories Bill of Materials, with part numbers from Digi-Key where applicable.

17 18 19 20 Battery box leads

Designation PCB RA4 RA1, RA2 RB0-RB24 U1 (Socket) U2,U3,U4,U5 (Sockets) XTL C1,C2 S1, S2 J1 J3 Q0-Q24 C3 C4-C10 S3

21 DXXYY

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22 Rubber feet All others

Power adapter: Int’l J2

Optional Power adapter kit: International

Power adapter: US J2

Optional Power adapter kit: US

b1,b2,b3,b4,b5

Optional extra button set

23 -

1 2