LIBERDADE in loco
The Glória and Lavra Funiculars With its seven hills and winding, steep streets, Lisbon has always challenged those forced to scale the endless steps of its cobbled slopes. And if, going down, the saints lend a helping hand, going up is a different story. Which is why the first funiculars, today listed national monuments, first appeared in Lisbon in the 19th century. The popular saying applies well to Lisbon. With steep
Calçada da Glória required an effective form of trans-
streets throughout the capital, locals understand all
port. So, in similar vein to Lavra, the Glória funicular,
too well the meaning of the expression “going down,
the second in the city, saw the light of day. Both, to-
the saints lend a helping hand”. Getting up some of the
gether with the Bica funicular and Santa Justa eleva-
cobbled lanes can be a real adventure for any pair of
tor, were listed as national monuments in 2002 and the
legs. Which is why Lisbon’s funiculars and elevator first
three annually carry around 3.5 million passengers.
appeared over 120 years ago and even today are still an essential part of the everyday life of many locals. And with their long history, they are also now a guaranteed attraction for anyone wanting to discover the city. Calçada do Lavra was the first street in Lisbon to have a funicular installed. Its inauguration in 1884 was a national event and the machine was an engineering first for the age, designed by Raoul Mesnier de Ponsard from Oporto, who would later be responsible for other similar projects. Journalists, crowds of guests and a musical band marked the great day. After overcoming its many construction hurdles, the funicular began its daily ascents and descents, carrying its load of 24 passengers per carriage. At that time, vehicles used in the city were American in style: they moved on rails and were pulled by animals. The funicular introduced the novelty of a faster, doubledecker carriage powered by water! Getting up and down Calçada do Lavra became a lot easier. Nevertheless, some locals were far from enamoured. And the reason was simple: to avoid accidents, the two trams constantly blew a horn on their way up and on their way down. This finally ended when the council issued a fine and an electrical warning system was installed. Despite the initial hiccups, the Lavra funicular was a success. A year later, the second carriage of its kind arrived in the city. Climbing from Praça dos Restauradores to the São Pedro de Alcântara viewing spot in the Bairro Alto was not – and still is not – an easy task. The 276 metres from the bottom to the top of the steep 10 · LIBERDADE con vida
The gravity-defying ‘amarelinhos’ Although the meaning of ‘green’ in the 19th century was largely unknown, nowadays the funicular railways are the most environmentally friendly ways of getting around the city. Now powered by electricity, they originally ran on water, and had to fill up before every trip. But Lisbon’s lack of water at the time was legendary and it was common for the funiculars to draw to a halt. Steam engines were even bought at one point, but soon after they were converted to run on electricity. It was already under the control of the Companhia Carris that, in the 1930s, the carriages changed colour from mahogany brown to the yellow that they still sport to this day. Yellow was and still is the colour identified with the image of the company and the funiculars became known as ‘amarelinhos’, or ‘little yellows’, now mostly sought after by the city’s tourists. As if by magic, the carriages defied Lisbon’s capricious law of gravity and gave anyone who has to make their way up these streets a new lease of life. In just two minutes, they deliver you to a new part of town.