>>> Mas os acordes das guitarras portuguesas misturam-se com os sons mais contemporâneos que chegam do café Buenos Aires, um dos mais atraentes espaços das escadinhas. Continuando a descer e depois do castelo sair do campo de visão, descobre-se lojas de características muito especiais. A imagem nobre não caracteriza estes estabelecimentos, mas ali encontram-se verdadeireiras relíquias para quem não resiste a folhear livros antigos. São os alfarrabistas e as livrarias que cumprem as despedidas das escadas. •
Calçada do Duque is a winding and little known path in the heart of the city. But it is here that real Lisbon in all its splendour can be found. It’s worth succumbing to the pleasures of its open-air cafés with views of the castle.
It is said that Madre de Deus’s church surpasses the riches that adorn the church of São Roque. Located in Largo Trindade Coelho, where a statue erected in homage to Lisbon’s newspaper vendors stands, this religious monument and museum reveals sacred art that is very much in the 18th century Italian style. It is here that locals and tourists meet. In one of the city’s loveliest and grandest squares. Somewhat inexplicably, it is also here that the Es-
After passing Casa Transmontana, a restaurant
cadinhas do Duque (The Duke’s Steps) begin. Well
serving regional cuisine located at the top of the
concealed, they lead you down to another Lisbon,
steps, you begin to glimpse the colourful paper
where signs and characters exist that reveal the
decorations that appear to criss-cross the heavens
habits of another age.
in homage to St. Anthony (Santo António), the city’s
It is here that Senhor Correia moves restlessly by
patron saint. You can envisage the celebrations
the door to Securas restaurant. With a menu in
overflowing with wine and enlivened by the voices
hand, he invites passers-by to have something to
of the singers. Turn the corner and the surprise is
eat at the tables where he serves. And he even does
there for all to see: the whole of the castle is visible,
so in English if need be. The space is small, but
sitting on top of its hill. From the window of the So-
the outdoor tables are a genuine luxury in the city.
lar do Duque restaurant comes the sound of fado,
From here, the whole of Castelo de São Jorge can
its melodies turning the steps into an even more
be seen and customers arrange themselves like an
genuine piece of Lisbon.
audience at a show.
But the chords of the Portuguese guitars mix with
Thus it is that the Escadinhas do Duque, as it is
the more modern sounds from the Buenos Aires
commonly known, works its charm. But the street
café, one of the most attractive spots on the steps.
names reveal that this winding path is really called
Continuing downwards, and after the castle disap-
Calçada do Duque. Located at the rear end of Chi-
pears from sight, interesting shops begin to appear.
ado, it contrasts with the grandeur that character-
There’s nothing grand about these establishments,
ises the area. However, it is here that Lisbon is to
but for those who can’t resist leafing through an old
be found and its real essence felt. The Pombal-era
book, there are veritable treasures to be found. It
buildings are all askew, each painted its own col-
is here, in these shops selling new and used books,
our. Blues, yellows and faded reds prevail.
that those descending the steps are bid farewell. •