Happy in Cascais Along the sea walk that links Cascais to São João do Estoril, the day starts early. Walking or jogging, the scent of the sea air fills my lungs. Far off, near the bay, I can see a calm and rested sea whose surface is only slightly rippled when the wind blows stronger, creating small frothy crests. The wind – the very one that is said to add years to locals’ lives – blows in my face. Cool and clear, it gives the sensation that life can be good, better; it brings the guarantee that, here, life is indeed good.
B
eing born in Cascais means being born in the
At Monte Estoril, Germans and Swedes drink to the
sun with your feet in the water. Whether it’s
health of whoever it was that introduced them to Por-
cold or hot, you never lose that small but won-
tugal. Life here is slower they believe and one’s time
derful pleasure of feeling the wet sand with your bare
should be spent amongst friends. In Valbom, Italians
feet. Whatever the time of year, it’s never too cold for
eat ice cream from Santini and confirm what we have
a swim. At Conceição Beach, empty first thing in the
known for generations: that they are the best in the
morning, anyone can give themselves a new lease of
world. Three doors down, another Italian, the writer
life and feel it in the cool skin of a revitalised body.
António Tabuchi, enters his favourite bookshop, Gali-
Leaving the beach, I climb up to Rua Direita, firmly
leu. At the epicentre of Cascais, Largo de Camões, sit
intent to walk it with the sensation of wet clothes on
Spaniards who came to see the motorcycle racing next
my skin and the sand in my shoes. There’s no stress.
to sunburnt Irish who never miss their two weeks of
Relaxed, I look in the shop windows and watch others
golf in the sun every year. At the same cafés sit English
pass by. Others who, like me, live for these mornings.
drinking beer, eating seafood and, product of the digital
Weekend mornings when the world entices us outside
age, watching football on giant screens. Sheltered un-
and staying home just means sleeping till late.
der parasols, they watch games happening at that very
After lunch, at Guincho beach, I look over towards Sintra
moment in countries where the rain never stops. The
hills. At times covered with a cloak of clouds, it is, as
wonders of the world in which we live.
ever, extraordinary and the most sacred of places. In the
As evening sets in, I sit down for dinner in the open air
sea, the surfers “make” waves, the same ones that I ride
at Lucullus, the heat of another sun-filled day still on
without a board, my body rigid and my arms stretched
my skin. There’s nothing better than a restaurant where
above my head, skimming, preferably, right up to the
the waiters recognise you and serve you what you like
beach. I’m not alone. At Guincho, bodysurfing is (almost)
without having to order. With my legs stretched out and
an Olympic sport. As it gets windier, we withdraw, to be
a glass in hand, I let the evening flow, like the wine.
replaced by other surfers, windsurfers, who set up their
Later, a walk along the bay and a look at the marina.
equipment and provide a show like no other. Hundreds
I talk slowly with my companion, giving myself time to
of colourful sails cutting through the horizon as the sun
think. There’s no hurry and our footsteps are slow and
sets. I don’t want to go, but I do. I have to. But, I go in the
rhythmic. Like our words. We sit and look at the sea.
knowledge that tomorrow is another day and the hope
The moon is reflected in the water and illuminates the
that it will be (yet another…) Guincho day.
boats. The waves can be heard gently breaking on the
Living in Cascais is like being permanently on holiday.
beach. And the warm air on my face makes me wish
It is truly the best way to travel while staying at home.
that time would stop. And, here, it really does.
It is like living in a different world with sun all year long
And that is why all those who come here want to stay.
and a smile etched permanently on your face. Just 30
But not all of them do. Some do, the lucky ones, like
kilometers from Lisbon, but a world away.
me, happy in Cascais.•
10 · Cascais & estoril con vida