bairro alto in loco
Of Lisbon’s many bairros, or neighbourhoods, only one needs no name: “the Bairro” is Bairro Alto. No further introduction is needed because it is unmistakeable, whether by day or above all by night. Like other neighbourhoods, when night falls, the shops and cafés start to shut. But unlike others, here many more also open. The lights come on like lanterns leading the way, while the music starts up and people venture into the alleys, ready for whatever the night may bring. On Friday nights, there are corners where people are packed so tightly that skills of diplomacy are required to get by. And if Bairro Alto nights are like this today - intensely democratic, teeming with life and utterly transformed - it is because one night, 25 years ago, everything began to change. The first night of all other nights has a date: 15th June 1982, when, on a corner of Rua da Atalaia, the doors of Frágil opened. The only way in was past its charismatic doorman. More club than disco at the time, artists, intellectuals, personalities and their friends turned the bar into their reception room. Between parties, concerts and decorations, the revolution in those post-revolutionary days was of another type: that of modernity. The neighbourhood that welcomed Frágil was not new to the after hours trade. Various newspapers made it their home and through the night it resounded to the sound of the printing presses. And many were the old style bars and drinking places, interspersed with vaguely touristy fado venues that were vaguely dubious – just like the girls who hung around the corners. All this happily coexisted with another generation, from the neighbouring conservatoire and its drama, cinema, music and dance classes. In the criss-crossing streets, the modern invasion started to make its mark with the restaurant Pap’açorda, the shop and publisher Cliché, the designer object shop Atalaia, Galeria Leo, and later Casanostra. But it was Frágil’s arbitrary and eclectic entrance policy which, like a magnet, drew the attention and caused tension. During the 80s, other bars sought the same notoriety and the same clientele, like Os Três Pastorinhos, 8 · BAIrro alto con vida
Targus, Sudoeste and Nova, and in 1987, Rádio Macau celebrated the increasingly cosmopolitan neighbourhood in its hit “O Elevador da Glória” (“The Glória Funicular”). After the daring, exciting and exclusive 80s came the less elitist and more abundant 90s. Shot bars took off and plastic beer glasses became a feature. Opening times extended, and so did the wildlife. Tribes and their respective hangouts appeared - goths, mods, punks and gays. The decidedly alternative ZDB gallery (much more than just an art gallery, with its studios and shows) took over a beautiful building, and the special and specialised bookshop Ler Devagar set up in a quiet corner up near Rua da Rosa. And the number of restaurants grew, offering exotic menus or just hip pretensions. When, in 1997, Manuel Reis sold Frágil for more space and broader horizons to create Lux in Santa Apolónia, much changed. Lisbon discovered the night and Bairro Alto avalanches of people. Today, it’s where everyone goes and everyone has there own hangout. The buildings are small, so the bars are counters and the street their drinking area. Capela, Maria Caxuxa, Mah Jong, Bedroom, Purex, Side and Sétimo Céu are popular with diverse crowds who, between greetings and goodbyes, thread their way through the labyrinthine neighbourhood in youthful hordes or on more solitary exoduses. And, surprise, surprise, Bairro Alto has emerged into the daylight. In recent years, new businesses have ventured in. New, alternative and specialised: grocers that have become delis or organic food stores, music shops, sportswear sellers, vintage clothing stores and fashion accessorizers. And hair stylists, craft shops, Lomo embassies, art galleries and neo-touristy gadget shops. And, of course, many of them have extended their opening hours until later than the rest of the city – because this still remains the centre of Lisbon’s nightlife, even if it has changed from dark to light and overnight.•