According to Ron, the owner of Pizza Bocca Lupo, there is one very important aspect to mak-
ing a traditional Neapolitan-style pizza: the oven. So important, in fact, that when I caught up with him a few weeks before opening, he was right in the middle of moving a 5,000 pound, Naples-imported oven into the restaurant himself. Most business owners wouldn’t mind paying a small fortune to have someone else move such a behemoth, but not Ron. To him, moving his oven safely into the restaurant was as momentous an occasion as a groom carrying his new bride over the threshold. When Ron explained the unique attributes of the oven, which is the traditional cooking apparatus for Neapolitan-style pizzas, I began to understand his zeal. First, it cooks at a much higher heat than regular pizza ovens (up to 900 degrees!) and has a low dome which causes the pizzas to cook in just 90 seconds. Ron was born and raised in Naples, so it’s no wonder he’s so passionate and knowledgeable about authentic Neapolitan-style pizza. Working as an engineer by day, Ron is a mix of builder and pizza connoisseur, even building his own pizza oven, a smaller version of the one in the restaurant, in his backyard. I sat down with him and Pizza Bocca Lupo’s pizziolo — a pizza maker who specializes in Neapolitan pizzas — Bradley Cleland and kitchen designer Zeden Jones to find out the meaning behind the restaurant name and what they’re hoping to bring to the San Jose dining scene. I saw the oven says Stefano Ferrara Napoli on the front. What does that mean? Ron: Stefano Ferrara is the family that builds these pizza ovens. There’s three families in Naples that build these ovens by hand, brick by brick. So it’s really very unique. So you imported it from Naples? Ron: Yes. I went to Naples to train. I know two families who own restaurants there who trained me to make pizzas. I was there for one weekend the first time. The second time I was there for a week and a half, every day. It was very intense. What’s your history with pizza? Why did you decide to open up a pizza shop? Ron: Growing up in Naples, pizza is basically the fast food of choice. It’s very inexpensive. When we moved here to the U.S., I missed a really good Neapolitanstyle pizza. I built my own oven in my backyard, also brick by brick. It’s small though, nothing like this one. I made lots of pizzas in my backyard. Just cranking them out. Zeden: What I think is unique about Ron is his passion. When you first meet him, you have no idea. It’s through the
pictures he has on his iPhone that you learn about how much experience he has; you learn about the brick oven in his backyard. He’s real quiet, but he has this passion. He’s making his hobby into his profession. Have there been any speed bumps along the way? Zeden: Because this is such a unique piece of equipment and because it comes from another country... it was a challenge for the jurisdiction. First to wrap their heads around what it is and second to give him permission. Usually if you set up plans for a restaurant, you get approved in 2 months. It took us five months to get approved. So this is the first time San Jose’s ever seen this kind of oven? Ron: Yes, I think actually in all of Santa Clara County. There’s a few places in San Francisco that have it. What’s unique about your pizza? Ron: Because it cooks so fast, it will be a little more juicy than a New York-style pizza. It’s wood-fired, so it will have that smoky taste. Are you going to import your ingredients? Ron: The flour will come from Naples. I found a really great local supplier for the tomato sauce. He’s very passionate himself and he makes tomato sauce that’s very similar to the style in Naples. What does Bocca Lupo mean? Ron: The mouth of the wolf. When I was in Naples for that week and a half of training, I’d tell people I was opening up my own pizzeria, and the first thing they said was “In Bocca al Lupo.” It means good luck; it’s like break a leg. What brought you to San Jose? Ron: Work. I tried to find work in
Naples, but there were no jobs over there. I did a study tour through the U.S., got in touch with a company here, did an internship, and that’s still where I’m working today. Did you know you wanted to open your restaurant in San Jose or was it the San Pedro Square Market that did it? Ron: I always had this dream that I’d have this place with brick, nice beams, a rustic feel, and nice outdoor seating. When I walked by the San Pedro Square Market, I got this vibe. I thought, “Hey, this is it, this is where I want to be.” The concept of the market where you basically only have to build out your kitchen made it affordable. Do you have any advice for San Jose business owner hopefuls who want to take a leap and follow their dreams like you did? Ron: Be persistent, do your homework, and talk to the right people. Do your research. What are you most excited about with this new venture? Ron: To bring something unique to this area. What’s going to be the thing that happens that makes it all worth it? Ron: People enjoying the food. In Naples what do people say when they really like something? What should people say to you if they really like it? Ron: Buonissimo — it means great, good-tasting. Pizza Bocca Lupo is located in the San Pedro Square Market at 87 N. San Pedro Street, San Jose. www.sanpedrosquaremarket.com/pizzabocca-lupo