C A N A D A ’ S
G U I D E
F I N E
T I M E P I E C E S
w w w.tim ea nds t y l e. ca
ALONG CAME A SPIDER CONCORD'S SPECTACTULAR NEW C1 SUPERWATCH Plus: The Perfect Watch for Any Man's Look• Jewellery You’ll Actually Want to Wear How to Choose Your Next Timepiece • Spectacular One-Offs Hit the Auction Block The World's Most Expensive Cellphones
EDITOR’S LET TER
So much time
—— E DI TOR I AL John McGouran | Publisher Michael La Fave Editorial and Creative Director Carol Besler | Watch Editor Adam Taylor | Art Director Evan Kaminsky | Associate Art Director Jeremy Freed | Editor Greg Hudson | Assistant Editor Adrian Armstrong | Photographer Letters to the editor: firstname.lastname@example.org
—— ADV E RT I S I NG Jeff McCann Senior Account Manager 416-854-3619 email@example.com Vincent Noël Québec Regional Manager 514-566-6874 firstname.lastname@example.org Diana Wilson Sales & Marketing Coordinator 416-591-0093 ext. 208 email@example.com
—— Time & Style is published by Contempo Media Inc. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the express written consent of the publisher.
ou want watches? We’ve got watches. This issue of Time & Style features nearly 50 great timepieces that run the gamut from trendy to classic, high-tech to one-of-a-kind. They were not chosen at random. I estimate that I look at anywhere between 800 and 1,000 new watches in a given year, and I’m constantly editing them down into categories according to the latest technology, design trends, innovative presentation, and so on. Someone once asked me, “Don’t they all look the same after a while?” Surprisingly not. Every watch has some distinguishing detail that stands out: Breguet numerals, Dauphine hands, clous de Paris finish, extra-large date window, high-tech case material, elegant onion crown, new complication, long lugs, tapered lugs, hidden lugs...the list is long and the more watches you look at, details like this, presented on such a small canvas, practically scream out at you. Before you know it, you’re a watch addict, dreaming of your own combination of elements for your ideal superwatch. We hope the following pages give you some ideas and answer your most pressing watch questions.
Carol Besler, Watch Editor
Contempo Media Inc. 370 Queen’s Quay West, Suite 100 Toronto, ON M5V 3J3 416-591-0093 Volume 4, Issue 1, Dec-Jan 2012
3 T IME & ST Y LE
TIME & ST YLE
CONTENTS _ 6
Hamilton brings out the stars to celebrate outstanding achievements in filmmaking, and Classic Creations puts its finest wares on display.
For those who want something more exclusive than the latest iPhone, these ultra-luxury mobiles are just the ticket. Plus: an understated bracelet in leather, titanium or sterling silver for your right wrist.
Watches for the boardroom, the great outdoors or a night on the town: Essential information for choosing your next timepiece, and what to wear it with.
Gold plate or solid gold? Mineral crystal or sapphire? Be an educated buyer with this detailed look at what goes into the price of your next watch.
COVER STORY 24
ALONG CAME A SPIDER
Concord’s latest achievement in extravagant wristwear is the C1 BlackSpider, an oversized titanium tourbillon with a presence to match its price tag.
Five incredible one-of-a-kind timepieces, one good cause and an excellent way to spend $600,000.
THE LAST SECOND
Having a collection of automatic watches is great, but since you can’t wear them all at once, you’ll need a winder. We suggest this one.
Urwerk UR-103 Phoenix Page. 27
4 T IME & ST Y LE
H E R M È S WAT C H M A K E R ARCEAU GRANDE LUNE Steel case, mechanical self-winding movement, moon phases, alligator strap Crafted by Hermès watchmakers in Switzerland www.hermes.com
TORONTO VANCOUVER MONTRÉAL CALGARY
416 604 514 403
968 681 842 767
8626 9965 3387 9100
Dispatches from the World of Timepieces
CLASSIC CREATIONS VIP WATCH FAIR —
HAMILTON GOES “BEHIND THE CAMERA” — Hamilton watches have featured prominently in big-screen classics, from 2001: A Space Odyssey, to Men in Black and Fight Club. Every year, in collaboration with movieline.com, Hamilton hosts the Behind the Camera Awards in Hollywood to honour industry professionals—from screenwriters to prop-masters to costume designers—for their individual contributions to making great films. This year, celebrity attendees included Harrison Ford, Jon Hamm, Antonio Banderas and JJ Abrams.
1. Jon Hamm and Janie Bryant 2. Mary Jo Markey, JJ Abrams and Maryann Brandon 3.Valentina Lodivini and President of Hamilton International Sylvain Dolla 4. Harrison Ford 5. Robert Pattinson 6. Antonio Banderas
Photos: Todd Williamson
6 T IME & ST Y LE
lassic Creations has been the go-to place for timepiece enthusiasts in the Toronto area since 1984. At their annual watch fair, 15 top international watch brands, including Baume & Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Zenith and Montblanc, were invited to showcase their latest and most impressive pieces. While VIP guests sipped wine and mingled amidst the jewellery, they were invited to experience Orbita’s exclusive Watchwinder Roadshow, which showcased some of the world’s most advanced and beautiful watch winders.
Pocket Watch VINTAGE PW1 Wristwatch VINTAGE WW1
48 mm 45 mm - Alligator strap
Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 路 firstname.lastname@example.org 路 e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
Phones and Jewellery
1 4 2
CELLULAR EVOLUTION Ultimate mobile phones
that combine the luxury and craftsmanship of fine timepieces with the technology of cuttingedge smartphones.
LIGHT AND DARK
—— 1. TAG Heuer Link This touchscreen smartphone operates on Android software and boasts a PVD and rose gold case, with an alligator skin cover. $13,100
These understated bracelets make the ideal piece of man-bling. ——
lack looks good with everything, and silver (or titanium or platinum) is much more versatile than gold (and just as valuable, if not more so). Together, they carry an understated refinement that's hard to find in men's jewelry. Try one of these on your other wrist.
2. Vertu Constellation The Vertu’s carbon fibre and stainless steel case is accented with stitched calfskin leather and carved sapphire keys. $9,700 3. Ulysse Nardin Chairman A hybrid smartphone powered partly by a Ulysse Nardin mechnical movement replete with fingerprint recognition technology and available in solid gold set with diamonds. $50,000 –CB
1. Tiffany 1837 sterling silver and titanium cuff, $825 2. Thomas Sabo sterling silver bracelet, $279 3. David Yurman Royal Cord Cuff, $450 4. Montblanc Silver Collection bracelet, $655 5. Louis Vuitton Men’s Digit Bracelet, $240
8 T IME & ST Y LE
alberta’s exclusive dealer:
1201 – 17TH Ave SW 1-866-245-3131
CLASSIC & VINTAGE
TIME & ST YLE
T IME & ST Y LE
WHAT TO WEAR IT WITH: The great thing about rose gold chronos is that they are formal with a casual, sporty edge. As such, they can work as well with wool trousers and a V-neck sweater as they do with a tailored, doublebreasted charcoal suit.
Rose gold adds boardroom cachet to the ubiquitous sports watch. ——
hronographs are some of the most popular watches out there, and with their complex-looking faces and versatile designs, it's easy to see why. But since a sports watch isn't appropriate for every occasion, you'll want something a bit dressier to wear with your bespoke suits. Enter the rose gold chrono, which combines the elegance of gold with the functionality of a sports watch. Problem solved. –CB 1. Chopard L.U.C Chrono One, $38,740 2. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, $29,120 3. Louis Vuitton Tambour Black Force, $20,300 4. Citizen Perpetual Chrono Atomic, $750 5. Patek Philippe Ref. 5960 $79,800 11 T IME & ST Y LE
Sport this season's boldest colour on your wrist. ——
WHAT TO WEAR IT WITH: A bold, eye-catching piece like this demands attention, and looks best when paired with an understated black leather jacket, dark denim, and, ideally, a fast Italian motorcycle.
his winter, instead of the traditional neutral blacks and charcoals, bright bold red is making a major appearance in menswear, from sweaters to full-on red suits—as well as timepieces. If you want to attract some attention in the season’s hottest hue without resorting to a tomato-coloured pea coat, try a red watch (or a black watch with red accents) for a more subtle expression of your fashionable self. –CB 1. Concord C2 chronograph, $6,500 2. Bell & Ross Radar, $5,900 3. Tudor Heritage Advisor, $5,655 4. Ulysse Nardin Black Sea, $12,000 5. Corum Admiral’s Cup Challenger, $8,600 12 T IME & ST Y LE
190 YEARS AGO
A MAN BET ON HORSES AND CHANGED WATCHMAKING FOREVER .
In 1821, at a horse race in Paris, Nicolas Rieussec successfully tested his revolutionary invention that allowed time to be recorded to an accuracy of a fifth of a second. The chronograph was born. Today, the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic is a tribute to 190 years of the chronograph’s technical evolution. 43 mm stainless steel case, skelleted horns and sapphire crystal back, black dial with red gold-plated hands and indexes. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. We’re celebrating this anniversary with “The Beauty of a Second” short-film contest, presented by Wim Wenders. Enter now at montblanc-onesecond.com. Every second counts.
montreal • toronto • montblanc.com
Classic & Vintage
2 WHAT TO WEAR IT WITH: What goes best with a slim, classic wristwatch? A slim, classic suit, of course. You can’t go wrong with something singlebreasted, in harris tweed, with a two-button jacket and notch lapels. A fitted cashmere turtleneck gives it an extra element of cool.
Understated vintage pieces that transcend trend. ——
ust because the whole Mad Men-inspired 1960s cultural throwback is on the wane doesn’t make the vintage designs from that era any less desirable. If you’re someone who appreciates timeless style, leave the flashy complications and jewel-encrusted pieces alone and go for something simple, classic and elegant. 1. Omega De Ville Hour Vision Blue, $7,300 2. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887, $4,600 3. Ebel Classic 100, $2,490 4. Baume & Mercier Classima Executive, $1,700 5. Longines Heritage Retrograde, $4,100 14 T IME & ST Y LE
the sportura chronograph. the measure of greatness.
SPORTURA. For more than a century, both SEIKO and FC Barcelona have, in our different arenas, been dedicated to perfection. Now, we are partners, celebrating our shared determination to be the best with the new Sportura FCB special edition Chronograph. SEIKO invented the quartz chronograph in 1983 and has timed world class sport for 50 years. All this experience comes together in the new Sportura. With 10 bar water resistance, a sapphire crystal and a 1/5 second chronograph, Sportura is the watch chosen by perhaps the greatest team in world football. www.seikocan.com
Guilloched (engraved) dials make these pieces all the more unique. ——
WHAT TO WEAR IT WITH: Like most everything Hermès creates, this watch balances casual sophistication with old-world luxury, and a touch of humour. The wearer of this piece reflects these things in his choice of clothes; high-quality tailored suits, and colourful, tasteful accessories.
uilloché (GEE-oh-shay) is named for the French engineer, Guillot, who invented a tool to engrave tiny patterns onto the dial of a watch. While that’s not necessarily an anecdote you’ll want to repeat at your next cocktail function, it does add a touch of sophistication to these timepieces and sets them apart from the crowd. –CB 1. Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, $16,515 2. Montblanc Star Chronograph, $2,915 3. Raymond Weil Maestro Automatic, $2,495 4. Tiffany Atlas Square Chronograph, $20,600 5. Cartier Ballon Bleu, $19,500 16 T IME & ST Y LE
Gc is a registered trademark of GUESS?, Inc. Art. Dir. Paul Marciano
Sport Class XXL Blackout Chronograph Matte black ceramic Sapphire crystal Swiss Made Gcwatches.com
Cost-effective additions to any modish watch collection. ——
WHAT TO WEAR IT WITH: Its rugged steel case and chronos give this watch a tough edge. Wear it on your outdoor excursions, with high-tech outerwear and a chunky style sweater underneath.
hese watches demonstrate there is no need to shell out for a gold perpetual calendar when the goal is simply to put a stylish, functional, decently constructed timepiece on your wrist. Even if you do get tired of your value-priced watch, you won’t feel bad about moving on, since you didn’t sell the farm to pay for it. In fact, you can probably afford two or three of these solid, sensible timers without breaking the bank. –CB 1. Swatch Cold Hour Irony Retrograde, $270 2. Seiko Premiere Automatic, $595 3. Victorinox Chrono Classic, $595 4. Gc Sport Class XXL Blackout, $895 5. Bulova Adventurer Chronograph, $350 18 T IME & ST Y LE
ELI MANNING, MVP, Champion Quarterback
UNSTOPPABLE. Stiletto Sapphire Glass
ELI MANNING IS. So is his Citizen Eco-Drive.
Fueled by light, it never needs a battery. IT’S UNSTOPPABLE.
©2011 Citizen Watch Company
Just like the people who wear it.
A new generation of high-tech alloys are making watches tougher, lighter and better-looking. ——
xotic complications like tourbillons and jumping hours are definitely impressive feats of watchmaking technology (and command equally impressive prices) but aren't necessarily things you'll make use of on a daily basis. New high-tech cases, however, made from advanced alloys, will make your watch lighter, stronger, and—most importantly—more scratch-resistant. –CB 1. SILICIUM Ulysse Nardin’s Sonata silicium collection contains a movement with components made from this silicon-based material, and a portion of the dial is cut from a silicon wafer. The benefit of silicium is that it needs virtually no lubrication, and it is highly elastic and anti-magnetic, all of which reduces the need for maintenance and keeps the watch more accurate. Price on request 2. DUAL-CARBON Montblanc's dual-carbon-treated case, introduced in its TimeWalker series, is finished with a special thermal carbon treatment in addition to the standard DLC (diamond-like carbon) finish, making it intensely durable. $7,400
WHAT TO WEAR IT WITH: A piece like this that exudes rugged, Indiana Jones-style charm, calls for a brown leather jacket, dark jeans and well-worn desert boots.
3. CUSN8 BRONZE Panerai's latest bronze version of its Luminor Submersible utilizes a special alloy of copper and tin that is particularly resistant to salt water and therefore perfect for dive watches. $10,100 4. ALCHROM The case of the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback chronograph is made of alchrom, an alloy of aluminum and steel that is lighter than steel, but just as hard. $8,600 5. CHROMATIC Chanel's newly developed ceramic/ titanium alloy, “chromatic,” is not only harder and more scratchresistant than regular high-tech ceramic, but lighter, too. Price on request 20 T IME & ST Y LE
It isn’t about looking smooth.
It’s about being smooth.
At Maker’s Mark,® we wouldn’t begin to know how to look cool. Or hip. All we’ve ever thought about around here is handcrafting a whisky that’s consistently full-flavoured, yet remarkably easy to drink. See, for us, it’s always been about taste. And that’s as smooth as we’ve ever wanted to be. WE MAKE OUR BOURBON CAREFULLY. PLEASE ENJOY IT THAT WAY. Maker’s Mark® Bourbon Whisky, 45% Alc./Vol. ©2011 Maker’s Mark Distillery, Inc. Loretto, KY, USA
A qualified look at the business of choosing your next wristwatch. ——
he factors that determine why some watches are more expensive than others are as complex and mysterious as the inner workings of the watches themselves. Movements, brand cachet, design, finishing details, degree of hand assembly, component materials and clasp construction all play roles in the cost of a given watch, and make it difficult to say that one watch is “better” than another. These pieces demonstrate a few examples of what you’re getting for the price difference. –CB 1. GOLD PLATE ➡ GOLD
4. STEEL ➡ ÜBER STEEL
Gold plating over base metal is standard in the lower range, while solid 18-karat gold is the norm for higher-priced pieces. Bulova Accutron Stratford Chronograph with rose-gold plate, $995 Glashütte Senator Automatic in 18k rose gold, $14,800
The vast majority of watches are stainless steel, and the standard is 316L surgical steel: iron mixed with a small amount of carbon. Some companies, such as Rolex, forge their own steel, going a grade higher by adding superstrengthening and anti-magnetic ingredients to the mix. Tudor Glamour Double Date in stainless steel, $3,030 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss in 904L steel, $7,640
2. PVD ➡ DLC
Physical vapour deposition (PVD) is a process used to fuse black metal compounds (alloys such as titanium, chromium and aluminum, or carbon) to stainless steel, producing a black surface that is more scratch-resistant. Diamondlike carbon (DLC) is an even tougher surface coating, comparable to synthetic diamond, that’s just about impossible to scratch. Movado Black PVD Master 2, $3,495 Cartier Santos 100 with DLC case, $7,750 3. MINERAL CRYSTAL ➡ SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL
A mineral crystal is a type of glass that is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, but less resilient than sapphire. It is also highly shatterresistant. A sapphire crystal is made of synthetic sapphire, which is the hardest gem known to man, next to diamond. Casio Edifice Chronograph with mineral crystal, $250 Panerai Luminor Submersible with sapphire crystal, $10,100
5. WILD ➡ WILDER
When it comes to avant-garde design and innovative, high-tech features, your options are nearly limitless. The Eco-Drive Satellite Wave, for instance, is satellitelinked, solar-powered and features a 26-city world timer in a steel and ceramic case. On the other end of the spectrum are limited-edition pieces from independent watchmakers—like the pink gold HL2.2, with its ultra-complicated movement prominently displayed through a unique side-view window—with price tags in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave, $3,800 Hautlence HL2.2,$250,000
22 T IME & ST Y LE
self made. Sir Richard Branson Founder of Virgin Group.
From the Kirkwood Collection
THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION. Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this doesn’t happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again.
Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests.
Sir Richard Branson’s proceeds from the photo shoot were donated to Virgin Unite, Virgin’s non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com
ARACHN A new species of super watch from Concord. ——
s much as the C1 BlackSpider endeavours to present itself as creepy, it is really a rather dignified, architectural timepiece that says more about the possibilities of watch engineering than most others in its blacked-out category. The C1 in fact demonstrates a degree of design restraint compared to some of its tricked-out cousins. The basis of the arachnid-inspired design code, and what makes it possible, is a plunging flange—the cliff-like drop between the top of the bezel and the dial plate. This allows for the dramatic treatment of the C1’s signature bezel construction, consisting of eight rampart-like tabs that hold the bezel in place. The tabs in this model begin just under the grooved dial plate and angle upwards over the top of the bezel and around the other side, resembling the eight legs of a spider. This dramatic design element is enabled by an astonishing 13.5 mm case thickness that also allows for a depth of field in which the components of the dial are arranged on various levels for a 3D effect. The multiple levels of the hands, subdials and deeply grooved dial plate rise and fall like the towers of the Manhattan skyline. The 47 mm case is titanium, a significant detail, given the size of this watch—titanium is 30% stronger than steel but half the weight, so it allows a big watch to be worn comfortably. This watch in platinum would be like wearing a brick on your wrist. The movement is a tourbillon, a sophisticated complication that compensates for the pull of gravity, with its rotating carriage visible through a sapphire bridge at 6 o’clock. This is nicely balanced by an open view of the mainspring at 12 o’clock. Case and strap are fully integrated, creating a more continuous design than the conventional case-lug-strap construction. All in all, a fluid, elegantly designed watch that is far more benign than its scary name. $129,000 By Carol Besler Photo by Adrian Armstrong
24 T IME & ST Y LE
25 T IME & ST Y LE
BIG TIMERS A collection of spectacular one-offs hit the block for charity in Monaco. ——
uper watches, it turns out, might actually have real superhuman powers. When Luc Pettavino, long-time managing director of the Monaco Yacht Show, learned that his son had Duchene Muscular Dystrophy 10 years ago, he quit his job and started a charity to help fight the disease—all funded by watches. He persuaded his friend, the late Nick Hayek, to donate pieces from his stable of high-end Swatch Group brands, and then secured commitments from most of the rest of Switzerland’s elite. In order to participate, all watches had to be one-of-a-kind, created especially for the auction, and all proceeds donated to fighting DMD, which afflicts one in 3,600 males. This year, under the High Patronage of HRH Prince Albert, 40 watches in the third biannual ONLY auction raised 4.5-million Euros at the Hotel Hermitage in Monaco, Antiquorum presiding. By Carol Besler
26 T IME & ST Y LE
Bell & Ross BR01 CASINO PINK GOLD The Casino watch in traditional roulette-wheel colours couldnâ€™t be more comme il faut for the ONLY auction. Time is indicated by three markers on disks: a numeral 0 on the outside disk displays hours; a roulette ball on the middle disk indicates the minutes; the roulette wheel turns to indicate seconds. Sold for â‚Ź18,000
27 T IME & ST Y LE
Urwerk UR-103 PHOENIX The UR-103 is customized with a phoenix motif carved into the dial by Swiss master engraver JeanVincent Huguenin. The symbolism of the phoenix that heroically rises from the ashes was chosen to reflect hope for a cure for DMD. Sold for â‚Ź55,000
28 T IME & ST Y LE
BLU GAGARIN PLATINUM FLYING TOURBILLON This double-rotation platinum piece marks the 50th anniversary of Yuri Gagarinâ€™s historic, first-ever space flight. The tourbillon cage rotates every 60 seconds and also circles the dial every 108 minutes. A magnifying glass hovers overhead, illuminating the world map carved in 18k gold. Sold for â‚Ź300,000
29 T IME & ST Y LE
De Witt CONCEPT WATCH NO. 3 – X-WATCH This titanium and steel creation is reversible. The front is a tourbillon with retrograde hours on the left and minutes on the right. The back is a chronograph, with red back plate. An X-shaped cover on each side lifts up to reveal the full dials. Sold for €410,000
30 T IME & ST Y LE
TAG Heuer MONACO MIKROGRAPH 1/100TH OF A SECOND CHRONOGRAPH The Mikrograph is the world’s first mechanical timepiece to indicate 1/100th of a second, beating at 360,000 beats per hour, compared to the standard 28,000. The multi-level anthracite and silver dial of this special edition shows retrograde small seconds at 9 o’clock and chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock. Sold for €44,000
31 T IME & ST Y LE
TIME & ST YLE
BAUME & MERCIER
BELL & ROSS
HEISSE & SÖHNE
CELSIUS X VI II
www.tagheuer.com TIFFANY & CO.
www.tiffany.com 1-800-843-3269 THOMAS SABO
www.tudorwatch.com ULYSSE NARDIN
32 T IME & ST Y LE
www.carmenco.com TOOL FREE 1-888-825-0527
32 T IME & ST Y LE
Watch Winders 2
TURNING TIME Mechanical watches are made to be worn, but you can’t wear all of them at once. Hence, the necessity of a winder. —— Rapport Optima The Rapport Optima Time Capsule is a cylindrical tube winder in chrome-plated finished aluminum with a beveled glass base. It is fitted with a magnifying glass through which to see the watch and a brass cogwheel. $3,350 -CB 34 T IME & ST Y LE