The Denarau Island Magazine 2020

Denarau THE DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE

Number Seventeen 2020

Island•Fiji

Pure DPS

sheraton resort hilton fiji beach resort and spa fiji marriott resort suva central

downtown nadi

nadi airport duty free departures

Fiji’s Bula Coffee, grown and made in Fiji, enjoyed around the world.

A DOUBLE SHOT N

estled predominantly in the highlands and scattered throughout the Island of Viti Levu is Fiji’s unique wild coffee, reminiscent of its thriving and enterprising past, yet hidden in the undergrowth for decades. The perfect Arabica bean was discovered in Fiji by chance in 2011 with the Arabica origins dating back to 1000 BC. A process to test the bean proved it to be of world class standards, and the quest quickly began to create a sustainable industry that now encompasses more than 40 villages, involving over 1200 people who hand pick the coffee cherries before they make their way to the Bula Coffee manufacturing plant in Sigatoka. There the process of bringing a world class coffee to you takes on the next stage of its journey.

Our crop to cup process all completed in Fiji ensures that Fijians and the Fijian economy reap the full benefit from their

Above: Our coffee story starts from humble beginings, the handpicking of wild cherries. Left: Supply chain! Cherries making their way to our factory.

natural resource. Bula Coffee is not just about sourcing and bringing great coffee to you. Our desire is to assist the economic empowerment of Fiji’s rural communities. Bula Coffee really is a double shot - giving the world a great shot of coffee and villagers a better shot at life!

Looking for a Fiji taste adventure - Bula Coffee is available at: Tappoo, Jack’s of Fiji, Prouds, select local supermarkets and cafés, or online at www.bulacoffee.com Tropical

Trader

Best Destination For Authentic Fijian Handicrafts Preserving our Fijian Heritage Since 1969, Jack’s of Fiji has been working with local communities at grassroot level to showcase Fiji’s finest authentic arts and crafts to the world.

We are committed to preserving and promoting authentic Fijian handicrafts and artifacts.

FASHION

BEAUTY

JEWELLERY

HANDICRAFTS

WWW.JACKSFIJI.COM

$hop my Fiji

Find that perfect souvenir, lose yourself amongst our handicrafts, reward yourself from our beauty range or just see where Fiji fashion is at. Since 1969, Jack’s of Fiji has worked with Fijian craftspeople and companies to enhance and create opportunities locally and internationally to showcase local arts and crafts. Shop our Fiji, Jack’s of Fiji.

Boutique Stores: Sheraton Fiji Resort, Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa, The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa, Port Denarau, Hilton Fiji Beach Resort and Spa, InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort, Shangri-La’s Fijian Resort & Spa, Warwick Fiji, The Pearl Resort, DoubleTree Resort by Hilton, Tokatoka Resort, Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay, Nalagi Hotel, Nadi, Sigatoka, Suva, Savusavu

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

7

Tropical

8

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Trader

BULA! Welcome to your world on magnificent Denarau Island

A B C D E F G H

I J

Main Entrance Residential Beach Park Future Development Site Wyndham Resort Denarau Island Radisson Blu Resort Sheraton Fiji Resort Sheraton Denarau Villas The Westin Fiji Resort & Spa Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa

K Peninsular Residential Neighbourhood L Marina Point Residential Neighbourhood M The Cove Residential Neighbourhood N Mariners Beach Residential Neighbourhood O Fairway Palms Residential Neighbourhood P The Palms Q The Terraces

R Port Denarau Marina & Retail & Commercial area S Paradise Gardens Residential Neighbourhood T Sovereign Quays Residential Neighbourhood U Riverside Gardens Residential Neighbourhood V Proposed Rugby Development

W The Links Residential Neighbourhood X Denarau Championship Golf Course Y Denarau Golf & Racquet Club

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

9

Yaqona plays a central role in the culture and tradition of Fiji. It is prepared and served in its most traditional setting as part of a formal ceremony of welcome. A way of greeting guests with respect and honour, it prepares the ground for a free and frank exchange of ideas amid an atmosphere of mutual respect. You can try yaqona during your stay and you can read more about its significance in A Royal Welcome on page 31.

Denarau THE DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE

Number Seventeen 2020

Published by Anglers Paradise Ltd PO Box 1486, Ba, Fiji Islands.

Tel: +679 9222539 Email: cjsiers@unwired.com.fj Editor: Conrad Siers Advertising enquiries are welcomed and should be directed to the above address.

This Magazine can also be viewed online at: issuu.com/conrads/docs/ denarauislandmagazine or search The Denarau Island Magazine Design & Layout: Envisage Co. Ltd, Suva, Fiji Islands. envisage@connect.com.fj Printed by Everbest Printing Co. Ltd Kowloon, Hong Kong Š2020 by the Publisher All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or part in any media is prohibited without the written consent of the publisher.

Unless otherwise attributed words and pictures James & Conrad Siers, contributing advertisers, or in the public domain.

10 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

omantic notions of the great South Pacific getaway are still alive and kicking. Amongst the hustle and bustle of this hurley burley life you can still find hideaways and beautiful, unspoilt isles.

Denarau Island is the perfect example, managing to strike the delicate balance between being luxurious and yet still slightly mysterious within our modern, complicated world.

The luxury part is easy to explain. For over four decades Denarau Island has grown in accordance with the dreams of

Tavua Ba

Mamanuca Islands

Lautoka

Mana

Malolo Lailai

DENARAU

Nadi

Q

Anglers Paradise cannot be held responsible for any claims, statements or offers made in any advertising.

Editorial information is as accurate as can be reasonably expected at the time of publication but things change and Anglers Paradise Limited will not be held responsible for errors arising out of editorial content. Consider it an informal guide to the subjects discussed to be assessed and used at the reader’s discretion. No part of this publication may be reproduced, wholly or in part, without prior written permission from the Publisher.

R

Sigatoka

Nubu Naduri

Labasa

Rabi Natewa Bay

Votua Bua

Yadua

Vanua Levu

BLIGH WATER

VATU-I-RA PASSAGE

Ba

Lautoka

Natovi Korovou

Viti Levu

Q

Nausori

Navua

Sigatoka Coral Coast

Levuka

Northern Lau Group

Mago

Makogai

Vatukoula

Malolo Lailai

Q

Vanua Balavu

Kaibu

Koro

Tavua

Nadi

Laucala Qamea

Nabouwalu

Rakiraki

Mana

Matei Somosomo Waiyevu

Savusavu

Taveuni

Yasawa Group

Mamanuca Islands

Buca

Wakaya

KORO SEA

Tuvuca

Ovalau Batiki

Nairai

Cicia Nayau

Gau

SUVA

Pacific Harbour

The Fiji Islands

Lakeba

Beqa Vatulele

Moala

KADAVU PASSAGE

Namuka-i-lau Totoya Kabara Kadavu

its original visionaries. In many ways it has surpassed their wildest expectations. Under the professional hospitality of the Hilton, Sofitel, Sheraton, Westin, Radisson Blu and Wyndham Resort, six of the world’s most iconic resort brands, casual visitors as well as staying guests are as one. The doors are open for all to enjoy their service and they know just what you need.

Southern Lau Group

Fulaga

Ogea Levu

Denarau is the hub upon and from which all things are possible in Fiji. An array of the very best professional service operators can help you discover and enjoy whatever part of Fiji you desire.

They make it easy, and fun, and will get you back in time for dinner! If you are a couple looking for a romantic getaway or a family in search of special memories, Denarau stands ready to deliver.

D

Even after so many years of success resorts continue to review, revise and refresh their look and feel. Many are doing that right now. New designs for extensions and renovations are underway, building on experience to bring you better and more memorable holiday experiences.

But for most people that come to Denarau it is not just a ‘oncer’ holiday destination, many return time and time again and have become part of the big Denarau family. This is the aspect of Denarau’s success that should be harder to explain, but actually the answer is simple: to be part of the Denarau family is to feel special. Fiji and Fijians are famous for their hospitality and on Denarau everyone feels at home. Special, even lifelong friendships are made here. It is a comfortable and reliable place and with world class accommodation, great wining and dining, plus the opportunity to explore the country the fact is that

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 11

12 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Denarau THE DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE

Number Seventeen 2020

The Denarau Island Magazine was first published in 1996. It is our intention to assist in familiarizing you with the island and all it has to offer. Denarau Island is a unique and special destination within Fiji and yet is very much an exemplar of all that is Fijian. As you join our Denarau family it is also our desire to help you understand more about Fiji's past and present, its cultures, customs and traditions and how these interact in the Fijian peoples way of life.

This Magazine can also be viewed online at: issuu.com/conrads/docs/denarauislandmagazine or search The Denarau Island Magazine

Welcome to The Denarau Island Magazine 9

Bula - Denarau Island Map

10 Introduction 14 Languages of Fiji 19 Cornucopia of Choice on

Denarau Island 31

A Royal Welcome

46 Like Their Parents Did 51 Colourful Delight 56 Something New, Something

Blue at Radisson Blu 59 Action & Adventure

71 Fishing from Denarau

94 Grand Old Man of Denarau

73 Denarau Island Golf

& Racquet Club

95 People of Fiji 97 Fijian Staple

76 Fiji's Resilient Reefs 79 Discovering a Hidden Delight 84 Fisher, Gleaner, Processor,

Seller - The Diverse Role of

Women in Fiji's Fisheries 88 Land Ownership in Fiji 91

Fiji Time Island•Fiji

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 13

g is an ng as in Singatoka

d is an nd as in Nandi

j is a ch as in Charlie b is mb as in mbula

q is ngg as in finger

Languages of Fiji T

he languages and dialects of Fiji offer insights into the country’s past, present and future. English is the language most often first used when different races interact, reflecting Fiji’s colonial history, serving as a common tongue and ensuring the country can more easily participate in the world community.

But at heart Fiji is a multi-lingual society. The iTaukei are the traditional landowners, or descendants of Fiji’s first settlers and there are three hundred dialects of their language alone. Some of the many languages of India can be found here, albeit in distinctly local form. Amongst other languages Cantonese and Mandarin can be heard here, and in some settlements Tongan, Samoan and the language of Kiribati are the everyday languages.

In schools English, iTaukei and Hindi are compulsory and most of the people of Fiji are at least partly tri-lingual.

Visitors to Fiji are often confused between how something is written and how it is spoken or pronounced in the iTaukei language. One such confusion arises where place names are spelt as they are to be pronounced in English. For example the Mamanuca Islands which are clearly visible from Denarau. They are pronounced Mamanutha and that is the spelling used on sea charts, whereas all other spelling is Mamanuca.

14 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Some useful tips for pronouncing the iTaukei language correctly are to remember the following general rules:

“b” is “mb” as in mbula “g” is an “ng” as in Singatoka “d” is an “nd” as in Nandi “q” is “ngg” as in finger “j” is a “ch” as in Charlie We won’t get into the issue of vowels sounds but suffice it to say for many guests they can cause a problem. In fact a classic example of mispronunciation can be heard around the name Denarau itself. Many call it Denaroo- as in Kangaroo- whereas it is actually pronounced Dena-row (as in a row or argument) As mentioned there are three hundred dialects of the iTaukei language. The most common dialect that is used is that of Bau, historically an extremely influential area of Fiji. Denarau lies in the province of Ba, which has about thirty dialects of its own. A careful ear may catch locals saying cola, pronounced

RIP CURL FIJI RANGE AVAILABLE AT: Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa Sheraton Fiji Resort Downtown Nadi Shangri-La Fijian Resort & Spa Warwick Fiji The Pearl Resort

InterContinental Resorts & Spa Tokatoka Resort Sigatoka Yanuyanu

By The Sea DoubleTree By Hilton Challenge Plaza, Votualevu

Port Denarau Marina Nadi International Airport Departure Hall STORE

"How do you like this mango?" Cezary seems to be saying. It is certainly a fine example.

Pronounced mango the spelling is maqo. This is an abnormally large maqo, you will be hard pressed to find one this size around but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try. Extra benefit, it is also a hybrid type, which means it is extra tasty!

thola, instead of bula when greeting each other here. In some parts of Vanua Levu people say bula re in greeting instead of bula and in Ra in the north of Viti Levu the form of greeting is usually yadra, pronounced yandra, which generally means good morning in the rest of Fiji - but in Ra it is used irrespective of the time of day as a greeting. Language is one of the tools used by anthropologists to help determine the origins of people.

The accepted belief regarding the settlement of Oceania is that the first settlers originated from Taiwan. Those indigenous Taiwanese have all but vanished as people migrated from China to Taiwan around 700 years ago and displaced them. But their descendants live on across Oceania. DNA and language both attest to this fact.

A couple of examples of how language identifies the two peoples across the distances of time and space are the iTaukei words tama and tina which mean ‘father’ and ‘mother’. These two words have exactly the same meaning in Rukai, which is one

16 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

of the indigenous languages of Taiwan. The languages of Fiji’s Pacific neighbours are all closely related to those of the iTaukei, for instance the word for three is tolu not only here, but also in Tonga, Samoa, and in many languages of the Solomons and Vanuatu. In the Cook Islands and in New Zealand Maori it is toru.

The word for eye here is mata in Rukai it is maja, and in Maori it can also be mata. If you are interested in understanding more about the iTaukei language a very good book is “Say Bula”,

by Paul Geraghty, which is normally available at your resort’s convenience store.

So go ahead and try some local language words, bula – as a greeting, vinaka as thank you, and moce as goodbye, are a good start. If you feel more adventurous get hold of “Say Bula” and try some more. The locals don’t expect you to perfect the pronunciation but they will love the fact that you have given it a go!

D

Garden of the Sleeping Giant

W

hen the Sabeto mountains are viewed from certain angles (for instance from the airport and Nadi and Denarau) they seem to take the form of a sleeping giant. The garden takes its name from this association and lies nestled in the foothills of the mountains. It can be found by driving north towards Lautoka. Approximately five kilometres past Nadi International airport turn right into Wailoku road; the sign post is on the left.

From there the road leads to the garden.

The American actor Raymond Burr established the garden in 1977. Burr had a long association with Fiji, also owning an island here. He took 40 acres of land and turned it into a wonderful place of tranquillity and beauty. Another American now owns the garden and he has continued to improve it, with the garden now home to more than 2000 different varieties of orchids alone.

The garden is a lovely place to visit, with bush walks, lily ponds, lovely flowers and serenity to be found all around. There are complementary refreshments available and you can make it a trip in itself or visit as part of a day trip to explore the wider surrounds of Nadi and Lautoka. To find out more you can call the garden on 6722701 or check with your tour desk.

D

18 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Cornucopia of Choice

on Denarau Island

Denarau Island is the hub upon and from which all things in Fiji are possible.

Six of the world’s most iconic resort brands operate here. You can also find a wonderful 18-hole golf course and tennis ranch, bars and restaurants galore, and all sorts of tours, cruises and entertainment. It is a complete holiday experience with such an enormous range of choice that, for example, you could stay on the island for weeks and still have a new dish or beverage to try each day. Let’s have a sneak preview of some of the epicurean options on offer during your stay.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 19

20 DENARAU DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 20202020 ISLAND MAGAZINE

Left: Adults only at KORO

L

et’s start our tour of Denarau’s finest wining and dining options at the northern end of the Island and move south.

Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa is renown in Fiji for its sumptuous service, superlative cuisine, and incomparable ambience.

Located on the east end of the peninsular of Denarau Island and sprawled over 2.5 kilometres of private beachfront, Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa is home to three celebrated restaurants. All menus utilize the freshest of ingredients and feature a mix of Fijian and international cuisines.

The menus were developed by Executive Chef, Pritam Shirlal and Executive Sous Chef, Aaron Davies and include a selection of lighter, healthier dining options, designed specifically for sharing. “We’ve witnessed the shift towards share plate dining and our menus reflect this trend. Guests at Hilton Fiji can expect to find unique food offerings at each of the Resort’s dining outlets, with a mix of Fijian, Asian and international dishes on offer,” said Mr Shirlal. At Hilton Fiji’s signature restaurant Maravu, guests can enjoy the focus on pan-Asian style food.

The menu here places an emphasis on Thai style cuisine, with all dishes created to satisfy the four major taste sensations; hot, sour, sweet and salty. For an extra special treat and something a little different try Maravu’s special new Yum Cha Sundays from 11am to 3pm. At Nuku, Hilton Fiji’s family friendly all day dining venue, guests can enjoy a selection of fresh seafood and grilled meats, along with delicious comfort foods and international cuisines. Koro means village in Fijian and Hilton Fiji’s KORO complex was designed to be an adults only oasis where you can escape and unwind in a private area within the resort. KORO features a range of leisure facilities including two stunning beachfront pools, a pool bar, all day dining and live entertainment every night. Located next to KORO is Hilton Fiji’s multi-award winning Spa, featuring dedicated lounge areas, luxurious treatment rooms and an outdoor plunge pool.

Maravu, Hilton’s signature dining experience.

You can also choose to enjoy your spa treatment in a poolside Spa pavilion where you can enjoy the South Pacific sea breeze.

Dining at KORO retains the Resort wide focus on shared plates, offering a Mediterranean tapas menu and plenty of fresh seafood. This all-day venue, offers a peaceful poolside setting, ideal for those looking for a relaxed child-free day or night out.

For a casual bite or something on the go don’t forget Hilton’s Deli. Enjoy something quick, easy and healthy from the new breakfast menu which ensures you start the morning the right way while throughout the day you can enjoy great coffee and a café style menu. Deli treats, gourmet pizzas, sandwiches and salads are some of the tantalizing goodies on offer, or perhaps just enjoy an espresso and a pastry while enjoying the complimentary wifi. In additional to the terrific menus available at the three restaurants and the deli, Hilton also offers a variety of theme nights such as Seafood Night with a platter to share and Taste of Fiji where you can indulge in Fijian Lovo, which is food cooked in an earth oven, as well as other delights such as made to order kokoda, pronounced kokonda, you can’t get any more traditional than that and it is delicious! Theme nights offer creative immersive dining experiences and in keeping with Hilton’s strong commitment to developing local talent their home-grown chefs have been tasked with re-creating these special experiences throughout 2020.

Each of Hilton Fiji’s dining venues offer stunning views over the South Pacific Ocean, matched with impressive cocktail and wine lists. And all venues are open to hotel guests or visitors.

A new breakfast menu at Deli

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 21

Heavenly Spa by Westin For a better you.™ Exhale deeply and slow down as you enter into the lush tropical paradise of our tranquil spa on Denarau Island. Awaken your senses while renewing your mind, body and spirit with a range of pampering experiences from beauty treatments and pedicures, to hydrating facials or the signature Heavenly Spa massage.

HEAVENLY SPA BY WESTIN Open Daily T + 679.675.8945 / + 679.675.8942

22 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Family friendly fun for everyone at Feast

N

ext stop is the Sheraton and Westin Resorts, Fiji complex, which offers an unparalleled wining and dining experience across its properties Sheraton Fiji Resort, Sheraton Denarau Villas, The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa and The Denarau Island Golf and Racquet Club. All are welcome and if you are a guest there is the additional benefit of no matter what resort you are staying in, you can indulge at any of the eight restaurants and have it charged back to your room – how convenient!

Our first stop as we move down the island is at the Sheraton Denarau Villas, here you will find Wet Edge set between the infinity pool and the ocean, a perfect backdrop. Cool drinks at the swim up bar and alfresco dining are on offer here. Be sure to try the Wet Edge Fisherman Platter, which includes an array of the freshest lobster, seared tuna, salt and pepper calamari, chilled cooked prawns and battered fish.

Middle: Alfresco delights at Wet Edge at Sheraton Denarau Villas.

Next it is onto the Sheraton Fiji Resort. Vai Restaurant on the waterfront offers the ultimate sand-in-your-toes dining experience where you can sample a daily happy hour cocktail special before enjoying succulent seafood and international flavours set to the spectacular sunset backdrop. In the mornings Vai is the place to indulge in adults only breakfasts. Feast caters for the whole family and overlooks the spectacular lagoon pool.

Here you can find a tapestry of bright decor and culinary delights from around the world, as well as specialty theme buffets that change each evening – of which the Seafood Buffet is a must try.

Fancy a cup of your favourite brew, perhaps a freshly baked treat, light snack, sandwich or wrap, or tailor-made Asian style soup and dumplings, then Pantry is the grab & go spot for you.

Now, off to The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa. Kitchen Grill is beautifully designed to reflect Fijian culture amid a warm, relaxing ambience. The open kitchen invites you to Succulent seafood, international flavours, & adults only breakfasts at Vai.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 23 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

WET EDGE

DINE AT SHERATON AND WESTIN DENARAU

KITCHEN GRILL

VAI RESTAURANT & BAR

The Westin From the freshest catch of the day, to the must-try tomahawk, Kitchen Grill is ideal for families and oceanside romantic dinners. Sample modern Indian cuisine at Zing,

Dining choices abound at the Sheraton and Westin Resorts, Denarau Island

at Westin Bakery.

Sheraton Fiji Resort

Coco Palms

Choose from International cuisine at the waterfront Vai and dancing, complemented by the traditional cooking of sandwiches and Asian style noodles at Pantry.

Sheraton Denarau Villas Indulge in the Hemingway inspired cocktail menu and dine on share platters from the Islands best sunset vantage point at Wet Edge.

For reservations, call +679 675 0777

24 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

the ‘Lovo’. Thursdays and Saturdays.

Heineken House With stunning views overlooking the golf course, choose pizzas. Catch live sports coverage on the big screen and take advantage of daily beer specials.

The famous and ever popular Kitchen Grill at The Westin.

witness the theatre of trained chefs showing off modern grilling techniques and their artistic flair. The concept is contemporary grill featuring succulent steaks, locally sourced fish, tender chicken, tasty sides and tempting dishes designed to be shared around the table. Kitchen Grill is the perfect place to watch the sun go down while relaxing with a cocktail or refreshing beverage and to be part of Westin’s unwinding ritual, where you celebrate the transition from an exciting day to an enchanting night. At Ocean Terrace you can sample from fresh super foods, juice bar specialties, local pastries, such as coconut buns and banana cakes and watch the chefs prepare your eggs to your preference. Later in the day, check out the specialty Zing menu which features eclectic dishes that focus on Indian flavours, authentic curries and Indo-Fijian cuisine. For a traditional Fijian experience, journey through Coco Palms, where you will experience firewalking - Fijian warriors walk on flaming hot stones, Fijian Meke; which is story telling by dance, and

Middle: Midday tranquility at Heineken House Restaurant & Bar.

the unearthing of a lovo; where food is cooked the traditional Fijian way in an earth oven, delicious and healthy. You will also get to have your fair share of yaqona or kava tasting here. Kava tasting is a ‘must do’ when visiting Fiji. At Westin Bakery you can find a range of specially prepared gourmet treats including sandwiches, freshly baked pastries, pies and cakes. Held every Saturday the Farm To Fork Tour showcases where the resort complex’s organic produce is grown.

Stroll across from The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa to the Denarau Golf and Racquet Club and you will discover Heineken House Restaurant & Bar. This is where fans congregate on major sporting occasions to cheer on their teams. The backdrop of the golf course makes for a calm and serene setting and an ideal place for a quiet lunch. Included on the menu are wood-fired pizzas, burgers, salads, curries and a roast of the day. Phew, so much choice, so little time, the perfect dilemma, good luck!

Sunset Bar at Kitchen Grill. Just one of the many perfect places to relax with your favourite beverage as the day transitions to night.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 25

EXPERIENCE DELIGHT YOUR TASTE BUDS AT ONE OF SIX UNIQUE DINING OPTIONS WHILE IN PARADISE

BLU DINING From succulent grilled meats and refreshing cocktails, to top-rated authentic Thai Food, Italian Flavours and gourmet pizzas, the exceptional cuisine at Radisson Blu Resort Fiji is sure to please every palate.

Radisson Blu Resort Fiji Denarau Island P.O. Box PD 141, Port Denarau, Fiji Islands T: +679 675 6677 restaurants@radissonfiji.com

There is something for everyone to enjoy at Blu Bar & Grill.

BLU BAR & GRILL is the perfect day-to-night destination conveniently situated poolside and beachfront for the best of both worlds. This all-day dining restaurant and brasserie has an extensive casual dining menu with something everyone will enjoy. Watch the sunset on the deck, sip on your favourite cocktail, nibble on delicious appetisers while you listen to the rhythm of the live band. At dinnertime relax with a combination of grilled meats from an extensive á la carte menu and feast in the Greens & Grains buffet. Enjoy food for the hungry and drinks for the thirsty, sit by the bar, but don’t go too far!

Lomani Wai is Denarau’s only “in the water” dining experience located in one of the Resort’s lagoon pools. Enjoy a traditional yaqona ceremony on arrival, followed by a three course menu while cooling your feet in the water. Be served by Fijian warriors, listen to serenaders, and enjoy a fire show while dining. This is a must do experience while visiting Fiji!

R

adisson Blu Resort Fiji, Denarau Island is situated amongst 10 acres of pristine tropical gardens, scenic waterfalls, Neptunes is an old favourite of resort guests and locals, offering beachfront views and temperature controlled pools. With newly a laid back dining option snugly anchored over beachfront refurbished stylish rooms, the Radisson Blu Resort Fiji is the waters. Stunning seascape views are complimented by a special epitome of island living. Here you can experience six unique ambience, featuring the walk up dining options while marveling Tiki bar where you can get ice at nightly entertainment and cold beers, cool cocktails and Denarau’s only Fire on Water perfect smoothies. Included show at Fiji’s number one on the American infused Family Resort. From succulent homely menu are tempting grilled meats and refreshing nachos, freshly made wraps, cocktails, to authentic Thai honey drizzled BBQ wings, bbq food, Italian flavours and pork ribs and a wide range of gourmet pizzas, the exceptional delicious pizzas and burgers. cuisine at Radisson Blu Open for breakfast, lunch and Resort Fiji is sure to impress dinner Neptunes offers the every palate. The resort offers perfect setting for family and four on-site restaurants, two Dining on the deck at Chantara Thai, overlooking landscaped friends to unwind and have specialty dining options tropical gardens and the resort’s signature rock waterfall. a great time over laughs and and three bars. Refreshing delicious food while enjoying the play of ever changing tropical beverages are available during Happy Hour everyday and light on the Pacific Ocean. nightly entertainment offers unique Fijian cultural experiences, including local bands, traditional (meke) dances and Denarau’s BASILICO is the resort's cosy Italian family style restaurant only Fire on Water show, performed around the ocean deck and with cuisine reflecting a rustic, delicious array of dishes, from on the resort’s very own waterfall. If you decide you need some antipasti to fresh made pasta and risotto. Overlooking the alone grown up time, nanny services are available with wellpanoramic view of the Mamanuca Islands, Basilico offers a great trained babysitters ensuring little ones are well taken care of. dining experience and spectacular sunset views.

Chantara Thai Restaurant Means “moon water” in Thai and offers authentic Thai cuisine alfresco on the deck over looking the resort’s landscaped gardens and signature rock waterfall.

Discover authentic Thai flavours that transport your taste buds across the four regions of Thailand as culture and gastronomy blend together creating fabulous and delicious taste sensations.

The menu features popular Thai favourites such as noodle and rice dishes, aromatic Thai curries, fresh salads, soup and wok options, as well as a Family Style set menu and a specialty live Thai BBQ. Chantara Thai restaurant is also open for á la carte breakfast with barista made coffee and light lunches.

A sample of some of the taste sensations on offer from Chantara Thai.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 20202020 27

28 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

T

he next hotspot to check out on our list is Wyndham Resort Denarau Island. Situated on the beautiful beachside with stunning views of Momi Head and the island of Malolo Lailai, The Beach Shack Bar and Grill dishes up breakfast, lunch and dinner in an unbeatable atmosphere.

Savour your morning jolt of java before selecting an American-style hot breakfast from the blackboard menu, all whilst taking in the deep, rich hues of the Pacific Ocean.

Lunch offers a refreshing respite from the heat of the day with a selection of light, affordable, cafĂŠ-style meals such as calamari, steak sandwiches or tropical salads. The real magic happens at sunset though! Join your fellow travellers to enjoy a cocktail or two and watch the sun go down. With live entertainment three days a week, The Beach Shack Bar and Grill is the perfect place for a cocktail followed by dinner as it transforms into a classic Pacific Rim experience after dark, offering traditional fare complemented by freshly baked bread and a selection of entrees, side dishes and desserts.

Dinner at The Beach Shack Bar and Grill is a great way to celebrate your Denarau experience as a couple, or with friends and family. Maravu is the resort’s private area, exclusive to its adult guests, and offers a selection of cocktails and small plates to share. If you are after a more relaxed vibe, the Dua Tale bar is ideal and it serves casual fare and a wide range of beverages throughout the day. D Enjoy the unique ambience of The Beach Shack Bar and Grill and Dua Tale Bar at Wyndham Resort Denarau Island.

Great food and special beverages.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 29 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2018

Below: Meke is the traditional art of story telling by song and dance.

Some of our shows are for viewing but some require your participation!

Above: Before Christianity, a pantheon of gods reigned in Fiji.

Their god houses or temples were called bure kalou.

FIJI CULTURE VILLAGE

F

iji is blessed with a rich history by dance, you got it. Want to join in, and colourful culture. Originally great. What did a temple of the gods settled more than 3000 years ago by look like and how do the heirs of the a hardy seafaring people, today their Lapita people make pottery today? heirs safeguard rituals and customs Come and see and join in. Singing, developed over millennia. To know Fiji dancing, including fire dancing, is to know its people. And if you want to traditional craft making and history are get to know the people some knowledge all on display in a wonderful setting. of their history and culture is a useful And of course no real Fiji experience All good Fijian feasts are built around the traditional start. One good place to get the ball is complete without a yaqona, or kava, earth oven called lovo. rolling is at the Fiji Culture Village ceremony and a meal from a traditional located just outside Nadi town. The village was established to earth oven called a lovo. You can experience all of these things provide an opportunity for visitors and locals alike to experience and so much more, or just take a tour. To find out more visit some local culture and traditions. On offer is a diverse range of www.fijiculturevillage.com call on 8044800 or ask at your resort activities and shows. Want to see a meke, traditional story telling tour desk.

Below: Our fire dances are most spectacular at night!

Right: Fiji has a rich pottery making tradition.

You can watch and you can make your mark.

30 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

A Royal Welcome The Tuki Lali beat out the announcement, on a traditional laIi, or wooden drum, that the veiqaravi vakavanua vakaturaga ceremony was about to commence.

The chief was on his way and everyone was to assume their position and be ready.

Y

aqona, better known to many as kava, is an integral part of Fijian culture. It was most likely brought to Fiji from Vanuatu, possibly by the Lapita people who voyaged here more than three millennia ago and were the first people to inhabit Fiji. If so yaqona must have been considered an essential part of their material culture given that the room available on their craft would have been strictly limited, and only the most important items allocated space. While we will never know definitively the full story of the origins of yaqona in Fiji what we do know is that the culture and traditions of Fiji’s iTaukei, the heirs of those first settlers, inform us that yaqona plays an essential role in the social health of their societies. When you experience a

traditional yaqona ceremony you are witnessing a ritual whose origins may go back as far as three thousand years in Fiji. The ceremony has been refined over time to best express respect for, and adherence to, social structures and diplomatic norms of behavior. It disarms potential or actual protagonists by peeling off or removing differences occasioned by time, distance and space; physically, emotionally and spiritually, allowing a coming together to face mutual relations.

It is an expression of respect and of welcome and is one manifestation of the hospitality for which Fiji is so famous. In days of yore the consumption of yaqona was reserved for chiefs and priests. The offering and serving of yaqona was an expression

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 31

Upon arrival at the village green the Tui, or King, was met by a welcoming party who presented him with a tabua in the iVakasobu.

Tabua are teeth of the Sperm Whale. They hold a unique place in Fijian culture, being expressive of the deepest respect. The vakasobu presentation signified welcome and was performed when the chief alighted from his vehicle. The tabua and the words of welcome were received by the Tui through his Matanivanua, or herald, depicted here replying to the welcome on his king’s behalf.

of respect towards a chief and his position, within which he or she ultimately exercised authority over and responsibility for the life and death and the welfare of their people. But the offering, serving and imbibing of yaqona was not purely secular; it also played a role in the spiritual realm. Yaqona’s mystical attributes helped enable priests to converse with gods and, in cases where such ancestry was claimed, reinforced the semi-divine nature of high chiefs. Given its gravitas within indigenous iTaukei culture it is easy to understand why the preparation and serving of yaqona was and is conducted with all the trappings of high ceremony on formal occasions. The central or most important yaqona ceremony is that of chiefly yaqona, or yaqona vakaturaga, literally yaqona for the chief, which is conducted by the vanua, or the people, for their high chief. It is also performed as an honour when receiving visiting chiefs of high rank, important dignitaries or special guests.

The political landscape of Fiji before cession to Britain in 1874 was made up of numerous independent kingdoms each with their own sovereign. Relationships between neighbours and other kingdoms were of the utmost importance in maintaining

32 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

peace and prosperity, especially in times where war and conflict were not only common but also prevalent. Within this context it is easy to understand why one of the most important occasions in the past on which high ceremonial yaqona was conducted was upon the receiving of important guests. The practice is continued today and has been adopted by Fiji as a nation. The Government accords visiting international dignitaries of high rank, such as Prime Ministers, a formal traditional ceremony of welcome on behalf of the country.

The traditional ceremony of welcome, Veiqaravi Vakavanua Vakaturaga, depicted in this story was held in Tavualevu village on the occasion of a church fund raising event, called a soli, in June of 2019. The ceremony opened and closed the event held on the village rara, or green designed for formal functions.

Located at the rara is one of the village’s three lali, or traditional wooden drums. Shortly before ten o’clock in the morning beats from the lali announced to the assembled people and the village in general that the Tui Tavua, or the king of Tavua district, had left his residence and was en route to the rara. An honour guard of bati, or traditional Fijian warriors accompanied him.

Above: The Tui was presented with a second tabua in the Qaloqalovi, a reiteration of welcome to him on behalf of the vanua, or people.

Below: Upon completion of the Qaloqalovi the Tui was presented with traditional mats, ibe, in the Vakamamaca. The presentation of the mats was to replace those that may have been damaged or lost en route to the ceremony and to cater for household and other sartorial needs.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 33

34 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Above: Sevusevu. The presentation of a whole yaqona root. It represented a sharing with the Tui of the fruits of the soil and a mark of his acceptance by the vanua, or people. Below: The heart of the ceremony of welcome is the preparation and serving of chiefly yaqona. In this picture the yaqona powder and water mixture is being strained through fibers of the vau tree to remove the powder residue and so make the yaqona ready for drinking

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 35

36 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Meke is the art of storytelling by song and dance, and a special meke was performed by the yaqona party as part of the ceremony. A unique yaqona meke it established a rhythm and timetable by which the tu yaqona, or cupbearer, danced to the tanoa to receive the yaqona for serving to the Tui.

SOUTH SEA ISLAND FIJI’S MOST POPULAR DAY CRUISE DESTINATION • ONE ISLAND • 4 CRUISE OPTIONS

COMPLIMENTARY INCLUSIONS • BBQ buffet lunch, unlimited beer, wine & soft drinks (on Full Day, Half Day and Combo cruises) • Nadi, Denarau, Wailoaloa & Coral Coast return coach transfers (Coral Coast only for Full Day) • Swimming pool

• Fijian Meke performance (except Sundays) • Semi-Submersible coral viewer • Use of non-motorised water sports equipment 25 min • 30 mins free WiFi from Po s rt • Kids Club De

ONLY narau

Online ssc.com.fj

Call +679 675 0500

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 37

Your Cultural Adventure begins here...

Experience a truly authentic Fijian Island that is right on your doorstep. From the first “Bula” you will be taken on an enriching journey of Fiji’s history and culture on one of the islands where it first began 3000 years ago. Just like Robinson Crusoe himself, you will enjoy the warm blue waters and unspoilt beaches that provide a perfect backdrop for relaxation, recreation and exhilarating entertainment.

Cultural Day Tour

•

Village & Crab Catching Tour

Sunset Cruise Dinner & Show

•

Day & Night Combo Tour

T: +679 77 60999 E: book@rcifiji.com W: rcifiji.com 38 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

The freshly prepared yaqona was strained directly into a bilo, a cup made from a half coconut shell, held by the tu yaqona, or cup bearer.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 39

2 0 17

20 19

2 0 18

40 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

The serving bilo, or cup of yaqona is always filled to the brim and the cup bearer must not spill a single drop. An act that is performed with unerring accuracy.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 41

Above & Opposite Top: The cupbearer transferred the yaqona from the serving bilo to the Tui’s personal bilo. As is customary, he drained it in one draught.

Upon arrival at the rara the Tui was greeted by a welcoming group and presented with a tabua in the iVakasobu. Tabua are teeth from the Sperm or Cachalot whale and are cultural items of inestimable value. They have a plaited cord, made from the husk of mature coconuts, attached to each end and are often stained an orange or red colour. Presentation of tabua conveys feelings of the deepest respect, and commands the weightiest level of consideration to requests that accompany them. In the past their presentation could decide whether there would be war or peace, life or death.

The presentation of the vakasobu tabua signified a welcome on foreign soil and a request for the chief, who had arrived by car, to disembark from his vehicle. It was received by the Tui through his Matanivanua who is his herald or spokesman. The Tui tells him what he wishes to be conveyed and the Matanivanua speaks on his behalf.

After receiving the tabua the Tui proceeded into a shade shed that had been prepared for him. He was then presented with another tabua in the Qaloqalovi. Properly speaking the qaloqalovi is the welcoming tabua presented as a request to disembark when the guest is arriving by sea, as opposed to the vakasobu tabua when arriving by land, and in olden times was usually swum out to the guest’s vessel. It has however become somewhat common practice today for many ceremonies to feature presentation of both the vakasobu and qaloqalovi. The presentation of the

42 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

qaloqalovi was done when all the parties were assembled and seated. Its purpose and meaning was to reiterate the welcome to the chief and his entourage by the vanua, or people.

The qaloqalovi was followed by the Vakamamaca, the presentation of hand woven mats or ibe. The meaning of the vakamamaca presentation was to cater for the visiting party’s household and sartorial needs after their journey, recognising that some of their items may have been lost or damaged en route.

Next on the program was the Sevusevu where the Tui was presented with a whole root of yaqona. The meaning of the sevusevu was that of a sharing of the fruits of the soil and an affirmation by the people of their recognition of the Tui as their king.

After the presentation and acceptance of the sevusevu it was time for the preparation and serving of the chiefly yaqona. The Yaqona Vakaturaga ritual lies at the very heart of the ceremony of welcome. It is its main focus and is performed by members of the chiefly clan. Collectively their task is covered by the term veiqaravi. The meaning behind that term is that before the members of the chiefly clan may rise to positions of being served they must first learn to serve. Dried yaqona root that had been pounded into a powder was mixed with water in a tanoa and strained through fibers of the vau tree to remove any residual powder. Once prepared the tanoa was tilted so that the Matanivanua could see and assess the strength of the mix.

The drinking of the chiefly yaqona was followed by the presentation of lovo, earth oven cooked, dalo, or taro, a highly esteemed root crop and a whole pig in the Wase ni yaqona; a presentation of chiefly food signifying prosperity of the land.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 43

Vosa vakaturaga, the King’s speech. The Tui thanked the people for the ceremony and wished them blessings, success, peace and prosperity in unity. Seated to his left is his invited guest Ben Mar and his elder sister, Adi Laite Nariu Ratu-Uluilakeba.

He cried, “wai” for more water until he was satisfied the mix was correct which he indicated by crying out loud, “wai donu tu na yaqona vakaturaga”. Upon this cue the yaqona party commenced performing their yaqona meke and the cupbearer danced from behind the party up to the tanoa.

The mix was strained a final time as it was wrung through the vau fibers directly into the serving cup, filling it to the brim. The cupbearer approached the Tui and transferred the yaqona into the Tui’s personal bilo, which he then drank in one draft. The Matanivanua was served after the Tui and they were the only people to drink. Immediately after the serving and drinking of the chiefly yaqona the Tui was presented with lovo, earth oven cooked, root crops, specifically dalo, or taro, and a whole pig.

This part of the ceremony is called the Wase ni yaqona and is a

44 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

presentation of chiefly food signifying the prosperity of the land.

The Tui and his invited guest were then adorned with salusalu, or flower necklaces, after which the Tui addressed the assembled people in the vosa vakaturaga, or the king’s speech. In his address he thanked the vanua for the traditional ceremony and called for them to receive blessings, success, peace and prosperity in unity.

His speech was replied to after which the church fund raising event was declared open. The collection started with the Tui’s entourage making their personal donations. For the next few hours the Tui remained at the rara lending his support as the assembled people contributed to the collection. Once complete the ceremony was closed with the Vakatale, the presentation of a final tabua marking the end of the ceremony and bidding the Tui and his entourage farewell and safe travels.

D

D A OND SEA ADVENTURES

Day Cruises Private Charters Overnight Getaways Sit back and relax on polynesian style catamaran Grazia as our pro essional crew sail you to the most beauti ul islands o Fiji With ample deck space private double cabins and a tropical paradise to explore your next diamond sea adventure awaits ,

.

,

,

.

‫ۊ‬ƮǞƊǿȌȁƮȺƵƊƊƮɨƵȁɈɐȲƵȺ ɩɩɩ‫خ‬ƮȺƵƊƮɨƵȁɈɐȲƵȺ‫خ‬ƧȌǿ ȲǞƧǘƊȲƮ‫ۊ‬ƮȺƵƊƮɨƵȁɈɐȲƵȺ‫خ‬ƧȌǿ ‫ׇ׀׃ׅ ׉׀׈ ف׉ׇ׆ڕـ‬

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 45

Like Their Parents Did Suman with a sickle in one hand and rice stalks in another, on the first day harvesting her crop of rice.

C

handra and Suman live on fifteen acres of freehold land about an hour and a half north of Denarau on Fiji’s northwest coast. Their forebears came to Fiji under the system of indenture, established by the British Empire, and adopted by its Fiji colony in 1869.

Shortly after Fiji became a British colony, Fiji’s first governor, Sir Arthur Gordon, turned to the indenture system to satisfy two competing objectives. He did not want native Fijians to be forced to work on plantations, yet the colony needed labour, specifically

46 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

plantation labour. The indenture system was the answer and it operated in Fiji from 1869 to 1916. Under it, people from India signed a contact to serve in Fiji for a period of five years. At the expiration of the five-year term they could return home at their own expense, otherwise they were free to remain in Fiji for as long as they wished. They could work where and for whom they pleased. After five more years of residence in Fiji they were entitled to be repatriated without charge if they wished. Many, if not most, remained in Fiji making it their home.

Bent and sore backs come with the job. Suman, Chandra and Mukesh cut the rice.

The plants are not standing upright due to the weight of their grains and recent heavy rain.

Their descendants live on today, either in Fiji or in other countries, such as New Zealand and Australia, to which they have in their turn migrated.

The initial demand for workers came from plantation owners growing a variety of crops. From the 1870s Fiji’s sugar industry began to take off resulting in the majority of Fiji’s new migrants working on sugarcane plantations. As the indenture system came to an end the sugar industry moved from employing

labourers to contracting these same people, now as farmers, to grow sugarcane to supply the mills. Fast forward a hundred years and today you can see many of those farmers’ descendants going about growing their sugarcane and selling it to Fiji’s mills.

Chandra and Suman live on land Chandra’s father purchased in 1965 to grow sugarcane. They no longer grow sugarcane but still practice many of the small holding farming practices passed down from father to son, and from mother to daughter. They

Once the rice plants have been cut the stalks are gathered and placed in a pile and left for a few days.

Then, as is happening here, Chandra lays out the rice on a tarpaulin ready for threshing.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 47

Threshing is the process of separating the grains of rice from their husks and stalks. Chandra uses a tried and true method. The cut stalks are scattered on the ground and driven over by a tractor. The plants are given a final shake and discarded for the chickens to pick over.

Where tractors are not available, the old school technique of using oxen or bullocks to trample the stalks for the same effect is employed.

hand milk their cows and sell milk, they also make yogurt and ghee; they breed goats sold for meat, raise chickens and grow a variety of crops. The pictures accompanying this story were taken when they were harvesting one of their rice crops. It is grown intermittently, sufficient to ensure a basic food supply, a security measure based on Chandra’s experience growing up when his parents did the same.

He recounts how when hurricane Bebe struck in 1972 there was little access to town for over a week. The family survived on their store of home grown rice, his mother gently pounding it to separate the bran before cooking it and mixing it with their cows’ milk. Today, Chandra and Suman, having learnt from their parents, plant and harvest rice to eat, and to store for emergencies. The rice is planted close to their house and harvested by hand. Once cut the stalks are piled on a heap and left for a few days. When ready they are spread on a tarpaulin

48 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

and a tractor is driven over them to thresh the rice, which is then stored in plastic drums. It will keep for about two years.

The next step is to clean the chaff from the rice. This is done when a suitable breeze presents itself by a process called wind winnowing. The rice is poured out to fall on the ground in such a way that the wind will blow the chaff away. What is left is nice and clean with the rice then being ready to be stored for a final time. One more step is required before eating, that is the removal of the bran, or the hard brown casing of the rice grains.

Chandra and Suman usually take some rice to the local mill in town to do that, a little at a time, as they need. Otherwise it may be done as Chandra’s mother did fifty years ago. The rice is put in bowl and gentle rubbed or pounded to separate the bran. The rice is then ready to eat. The backbreaking work of growing and harvesting the rice, like their parents did, results in a unique sense of satisfaction, one out of the reach of many of us today. D

Above: Home grown rice grains together with the chaff straight after threshing.

Wind winnowing is a tried and true method of separating chaff from the rice grains. The rice is put in a container and poured slowly out onto a tarpaulin. The wind or breezed blows away the chaff leaving the clean rice ready for storage or processing.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 49

Chandra and Suman take their rice to the local mill in town to have it processed to remove the bran.

It is then ready to be cooked and used in dishes such as this one: rice, dhal and curry, a meal of champions!

50 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Colourful Delight Bougainvillea may be found growing all around Fiji. Roadside specimens can be particularly alluring. Be sure to keep your eyes on the road!

B

ougainvillea, it comes in many different shapes and sizes.

It can assume the characteristics of a plant, a vine, a shrub or a tree depending on its situation, but in whatever form it takes the results can be absolutely stunning. Named after the

intrepid French explorer Admiral Louis de Bougainville whose expedition discovered it in South America in 1768, it is now one of the most sought after, and ubiquitous, decorative tropical flowering plants in the world.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 51

Great Hair.

A Perfect Tan. Beautiful Hands, and Nails

hair

Our salon offers a wide range of services including Bridal Pin ups, cuts for Men Women and Children, Wash and Dry Off, Color Correction, Flat Iron and blow Dry, Blow Dry and Style, Ladies Upstyle, Hair Braiding. We are committed to providing great customer service at reasonable rates. Enquire about our other ongoing packages BRIDAL PIN UPS AVAILABLE Enquire about our Bridal packages We welcome walk-ins and appointments.

tan

Professional Spray Tanning Naked Tan botanical based tanning solutions ensure a timeless tan.

The finest advantages of indulging with NakedTan is the infusion of its pure botanical ingredients that nourish and moisturise the skin within while a bronzed natural tan is rapidly achieved to wash ‘n’ wear in just 2 hrs.

nails

We specialise in performing superior full-service nails care at affordable prices.

Have your nails pampered at our modern and luxurious salon situated at Port Denarau.

The services that ProfessioNail offers include Acrylic Nails, Acrylic In-Fill, Gel Nails, Acrylic Pink and White Popwder.

Our Manicure will keep your hands looking great.

Our Spa Pedicure is the ultimate in full body rerlaxation.

Unit 10/11, Ground Floor, Port Denarau Retail Centre, Denarau. | Phone : 6750 314 or 6750 312 | professionail@spadenarau.com 52 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Bougainvillea grows well in Fiji and there are many fine specimens that can be enjoyed on Denarau. In fact Denarau offers an ideal location for growing bougainvillea. It performs best when grown in well-drained soil in full sun. If it gets too much rain it will not bloom, preferring to grow instead. Denarau, located on the western or leeward side of Viti Levu, enjoys the

effects of Fiji’s dry season that runs from May to November each year. During this period the bougainvillea really comes into its own with wonderful blooms appearing.

Who knows how many different varieties and colours there are on Denarau but if you are up for a challenge you could always try and count them!

D

Bold colours and mixtures of subtle hues help make bougainvillea so alluring.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 53

From single delicate flowers, some of which change colour as they mature, to vibrant clusters, there is a bougainvillea for everyone and every occasion.

54 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Fiji’s leading hair & make up stylists Hair Salons l Mobile Stylists l Wedding Specialists Services include: Hair / Make Up / Nails / Spray Tans / Henna www.totokahair fiji.com Phone: +679 6721177 bookings@totokahair fiji.com

Locations at Narewa Rd, Nadi (3km from Denarau) & Outrigger, Coral Coast

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 55

A special way to celebrate your special day in a unique and unforgettable way - Blu Malamala

M

ore than 300 islands make up the wonderful Fijian archipelago, scattered like jewels across the sparkling Pacific Ocean. Beautiful settings combine with famous Fijian hospitality to create the most amazing destination for a holiday with that special someone or family and friends.

But Fiji is not only the place for a winter break - more and more happy couples are deciding it is the perfect choice for their dream wedding. Yes, this very romantic country is increasingly becoming a favourite wedding destination.

It makes sense. There is such a wide range of settings within which to say, “I do”.

From sandy seashores to tropical gardens and dedicated chapels - dreams really do come true. And the wedding team at Radisson Blu Resort Denarau Island like doing nothing better than making it all happen, and so easily.

Something New, Something Blue, at Radisson Blu 56 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

From your initial ideas, or even if you don’t really have any, the team at Radisson Blu will work with you to plan your day of a lifetime. No concept is too big, no detail is too small. So it is no surprise that getting married with Radisson Blu is so popular.

Here you have the romantic getaway, five star accommodation, all the treats and pampering you deserve, and no stress for the couple - the team makes sure your day goes without a hitch. Everything is taken care of, from accommodation for your wedding party, their arrival and departure transfers, the marriage service including the paper work, arranging the celebrant, priest or minister and the wedding reception. There is no better way to host your wedding than with this five star resort who can offer a wide range of dining options and has the ability to cater for any type of function.

Small gatherings, bigger family and friends’ events, or anything in between are all lovingly organized by Radisson Blu. There are exciting on-site venues including the Vei Domoni Lawn, which means ‘The Love Lawn’, an intimate location for smallish groups featuring stunning sunset views of the ocean; also the wonderful ‘Waterfall Lawn’

overlooking the resort’s cascading waterfall feature, ideal for up to 100 people. For a party of around 60 guests ‘Ocean Deck’ offers a chic, stylish openspace setting on the waterfront. This is the opportunity to have a relaxed, gorgeous, tropical beach-style wedding, overlooking the Mamanuca Islands. For a more formal reception there is the ‘Captain’s Ballroom’ where parties up to 120 can be catered for.

Just recently, Radisson Blu announced, in addition to the wonderful on-site choices, two exciting new, unique off-site venues.

They have introduced the exciting ‘Blu Malamala’ wedding package for parties of fifty guests to the picturesque Malamala Beach Club. This venue is the world’s first island beach club and is reached by a twenty-minute boat ride. Truly this is a most romantic location to say, “I do”. You can capture perfect scenes of the magical moments with your chosen photographer and enjoy pre-diner cocktails and canapés before heading back to the resort for a beautiful evening reception.

If a garden wedding is more your style then perhaps the Garden of The Sleeping Giant is the perfect location for your service. The Garden takes its name from

Radisson Blu is a five star resort that caters for any function.

The perfect way to ensure that your reception goes just as you want it.

how the Sabeto Mountains behind Nadi look from a distance, strung out like a slumbering giant. The American actor, Raymond Burr, originally established the garden in 1977. He landscaped 40 acres of land into a place of breathtaking tranquility and beauty with bush walks, lily ponds and flowers galore, it is home to more than 2000 different varieties of orchids alone. It is truly a special place, full of peace, calmness and serenity.

Whatever you have in mind for your

With plenty of time to enjoy and pamper yourself it helps to have a lot of choice of what to do.

Frolicking on a beach or indulging in a seaside spa pavilion are but two options.

most special of days Radisson Blu is ready to deliver memorable moments, every day, everywhere, every time. From the most intricate of details to the most elaborate of requests, the Radisson Blu team stands ready to discuss all your ideas for a special marriage, and to turn them into reality. So sit back, relax and let the professionals take care of the details.

To find out more contact the team at weddings@radissonfiji.com or give them a call on 675 6677.

D

F I J I ’ S

C R U I S E

L I N E

DISCOVER FIJI WITH US With an enormous range of experiences and locations, you’ll never be short of options while you’re on holiday.

33,, 4 & 11 1 1 NIGHT N I G HT DISCOVERY D IS COVERY CRUISES CRU ISES 4,, 77 & TIVUA I S L A N D F U L L D AY CRU IS ES - 1 0 AM & 1 1.3 0 A M TIVUA ISLAND LAZY LUNCH & FULL DAY CRUISES S U N S E T D INNER CRU IS E

SUNSET DINNER CRUISE

MENTION THIS ADVERT FOR YOUR FREE GIFT

BOOK BOOK NOW NOW +679 +679 670 1823 1823

Visit our office at Port Denarau at your resort tour desk or visit our officeoratenquire Port Denarau

captaincookcruisesfiji.com captaincookcruisesfiji.com

58 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Action & Adventure “Denarau Island is a wondrous hub upon and from which all things are possible in Fiji.

The range of choice and quality of service is simply outstanding.�

Captain Cook Cruises offer a range of adventures from day trips to live aboard cruises. There is so much of Fiji to experience such as these northern Yasawa waters.

D

enarau Island, Fiji. It is simply awesome, a wondrous hub upon and from which all things in Fiji are possible.

Unrivalled as a destination for a holiday or lifestyle the range of choice of activities and experiences available on or from Denarau is simply unbelievable. There is a wide range of water sports and activities available right from the beach at the major resorts. Not enough or you want to try something different, then venture further afield, you can experience so much of what Fiji has on offer from Denarau and be back at your resort in time for lunch or dinner. Denarau is indeed the hub upon and from which all things are possible in Fiji.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 59

Fiji’s river systems and waterways are fun and popular playgrounds. It is after all a tropical paradise.

Waterfalls, canyons and rapids are just some of the attractions ready to be explored with Rivers Fiji.

G&G FASHION SUNGLASSES & POLARIZED SUNGLASSES A complete range of Mens and Ladies Fashion Sunglasses, Polarized Sunglasses, Kids Sunglasses and Kids Polarized Sunglasses.

All glasses are 100% UV protected.

UC Polarized 3Plus Hardened Polarized Lens to provide the best protection to your eyes.

G&G and Polarized 3Plus range is available in below stores: Sheraton Fiji Resort, The Westin Resort and Spa, Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa, Hilton Fiji Beach Resort & Spa, Port Denarau and Radisson Blu Resort Fiji

60 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Call Direct 679-345-0147 | 679-992-2148 book at your resort tour desk, or check us out at riversfiji.com

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 61 Office Located in Pacific Harbour. Email info@riversfiji.com

exclusively available at Tappoo Resort stores The Westin, Sheraton, Wyndham, Radisson Blu, Hilton, Sofitel, Pullman, Tokoriki, Marriott, Intercontinental, Fijian, Warwick

62 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Denarau sits on the leeward side of Viti Levu and its sheltered location makes boat cruises comfortable and accessible all year round. What is more the beautiful and wonderful playgrounds of the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands are right on your doorstep and day trips to dive, fish, take in the sights and check out other islands and outer reefs are a snip.

Day cruises to wonderful outer islands are some of the most popular daily excursions available from Denarau. Enjoy the cruise, play in the sun and be back in time for dinner.

DAY TR IP TO THE WOR L D’S FIR S T ISL A ND B E ACH CLUB Just 25 minutes from Port Denarau, experience the crystal clear waters and stunning views with award winning food, curated cocktails and great service

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 63

The Ultimate Tropical Adventure

Resort Transfers Scenic Tours / Combo packages Charters/ Romance & Wedding Proposals

Aerial Photography & Filming Aerial Survey & Lifting Medical Evacuations

There are so many things to experience and do and share, and so very little time! You can’t do everything right? Here is a heads up.

Of all the many talented and professional activities operators in Fiji some of the very best are right on your doorstep. You have already met some earlier in the magazine and more will follow after this story, but consider these few pages an opportunity to get to know some of the other top operators.

Above & Right: Everything looks different from above.

Skydiving, helicopter transfers and scenic flights offer a bird's-eye view and are fast, easy and exhilarating.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 65

Fiji is famous for its underwater wonderlands. Corals grow at different depths but many of its most spectacular gardens lie just beneath the surface. Perfect for a family snorkel.

You can go island hopping, cruise by sail or in air-conditioned comfort or indulge in your own water taxi. There are many other options, far too many in fact to mention them all. Here is a taste of what is on offer from Denarau. Let your tour guides and imagination take care of the rest. You can take a thrilling jet boat ride, go fishing, scuba diving, snorkelling, surfing, water skiing and sailing. You can take in the sights from above by parasailing, skydiving, or by helicopter. You can take a Jet Ski for a casual ride or join a Jet Ski safari.

You can take bus and coach tours around Nadi and the immediate surrounds or have your own personalised tour to Suva, Fiji’s Capital, or travel right around Viti Levu, or to just about anywhere else for that matter. You can play golf on the world-renowned and internationally rated golf course, play bowls or play tennis on grass or synthetic courts that regularly

66 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

host the Fiji national tennis open. You can take a day trip into the highlands of Fiji and go white water rafting, zip through canopies of pristine rainforest, kayak through primordial mangroves and lagoons. You can hire a rental car, a motorbike or scooter or take a taxi or bus and explore the nearby towns of Nadi and Lautoka, or venture further afield and explore the interior the highlands and the coastal areas around to Rakiraki in the North and the Coral Coast and Suva to the South.

There are forts and sand dunes, village visits, four-wheel drive safaris, beautiful beaches, waterfalls and rivers to picnic on and explore. There are coral gardens to swim and idle amongst. There are yaqona ceremonies, dances, fire dancing and fire walking.

The options are positively endless and they are all available on, or from Denarau Island.

D

Clean Green Tranquility meets ‘Real Fiji’ in an exceptional day out for everyone.

N

estled on the Coral Coast an hour’s drive from Denarau is Ecotrax, a very special Fiji experience and the first of its kind in the world. This 3-hour tour is the winner of two-major ANZ Fiji Excellence in Tourism awards - Best Visitor Attraction and Pride Of Fiji Champion, along with being Fiji’s TripAdvisor #1 rated Outdoor Activity for the past two years.

Clean-green tranquility and electric assisted excitement combine with real Fijian life and local history to make for an exceptional half day out. Spread over the sugarcane coasts of Viti Levu are tram lines originally constructed over 100 years ago to transport sugarcane to the local mills. The network is still largely in use today but due to a bridge wash out the Coral Coast section has lain dormant for years. That is until Ecotrax Fiji came up with the brilliant idea of recycling the network to create a bicycle excursion like no other. Modified electric assisted bicycles have been mounted side-by-side on purpose built carriages providing the opportunity to pedal along the beautiful Coral Coast of Fiji.

A UNIQUE

ADVENTURE You can pedal gently or just use the accelerator while following the pristine coastline through villages, rock cuttings, mangroves, rainforest and even across bridges.

This journey through ‘real Fiji’ takes you to a beautiful deserted beach where you can swim, snorkel or just sit in the shade while enjoying a picnic of a refreshing fruit platter and drinking coconuts. An hour is spent at this little nook of paradise before you ‘get on your bike’ again and return to base.

Above: Enjoy spectacular landscapes as you wind along the pristine coastline; traversing bridges, and passing through rock cuttings, mangroves, rainforest, and villages.

Ecotrax is not only an innovator in eco tourism, it believes in sharing its success with the local community and does so by encouraging micro businesses and supporting educational, sporting, and environmental projects along the tram line and beyond. To find out more about this special and unique adventure or to make a booking visit www.ecotrax.com.fj or call +679 9770824.

Above & Left: Cruise on electric assisted bicycles as you make your way from home base to your destination of a perfect beach. There you can swim and snorkel before relaxing with a picnic of fresh fruit and coconuts before you ‘get on your bike again’ and head back to base.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 67

Fiji’s Premium Products & Best Deals

Fiji’s Finest Tours Port Denarau Marina

Day Trips Excursions

Rental Cars Sailing

Dinner Cruise Helicopter Tours

Phone: (+679) 675 0046 Mobile: (+679) 999 1946 Port Denarau Retail Centre, Shop 23. www.fijisfinesttours.net 68 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Zipline Fishing

fijisfinesttours

• Air, Sea & Land Activities • Art Gallery • Asian Cuisine • Bakery & Pattisserie • Bank • Bars • Beachwear • Beauty & Massage Therapy • Boat Charter • Boutiques

Bula & Welcome to

the Port at Denarau • Car Rental • Coffee Shop • Confectionery Shop • European Cuisine • Fashionwear • Fast Food & Takeaways • Fijian Cuisine • Fishing Charters • Footwear

• Handicrafts • Hard Rock Café • Ice Cream Parlour • Indian & Italian Cuisine • Jewellers • Kebabs • Money Exchange • Nail & Hair Salon • News Agency

Located on the water’s edge, the Port at Denarau offers the largest single collection of quality shopping and dining in Fiji.

Open daily, the Port boasts mouthwatering cuisine and an unhurried shopping experience in a relaxed and unique environment.

It will take you five minutes by car from Nadi Town and fifteen minutes from Nadi Airport.

Come, unwind and enjoy our hospitality on a sun splashed deck or indulge in an enchanted evening to a backdrop of shimmering waters and live local entertainment.

Denarau’s renowned yachting harbour plays host to island hop cruises & charters, super yachts and the occasional ocean liner.

Visitors to the Port will enjoy a wildly casual environment and experience the Fijian warmth and cultural diversity.

The Port at Denarau is just a short walk or bus/taxi ride away from any Denarau Resort.

For business or pleasure, The Port is a “must visit” whilst in Nadi or Denarau.

Port Denarau Centre Management, Denarau Island, Fiji • P.O. Box 80, Port Denarau • Telephone +679 6750602 • www.portdenarau.com.fj • Post Office • Pizza • Real Estate • Speciality Cuisines • Seafood • Steakhouse • Supermarket • Travel Agency • Wine & Liquor • Yacht Chandlery

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 69

70 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

FISHING

Fish on! Timmy from Hong Kong has made his cast, had a strike and set the hook.

Now he needs to keep the line tight and work his prize to the boat.

“Dear Lord, grant me the serenity to accept the size of the fish I catch, the courage not to lie about it and the wisdom to know that none of my fishing buddies would believe me anyway… Amen.”

There is no doubt that for those who are hooked on fishing, it is a consuming passion. And for these hook-lineand-sinker-types, Denarau is a great destination. There are so many options

from Denarau for indulgence, a vast array of fish to target, techniques to employ and places to fish. Decisions, decisions, decisions, and perhaps the most important question of all, “how to be in the right place at the right time?”

after all what they do. But as the most experienced hands will attest, the quickest and best decision when one is exploring a new location is to choose a good guide and follow the leader. Nothing beats local knowledge, that’s for sure.

Sounding like a quandary? Yes, but an exciting one because it is part of the adventure. Anglers like finding out answers and making decisions, it is

Fiji lies in the tropical belt of the southwest Pacific Ocean. It has more than 300 islands, each surrounded by one or more coral reefs providing shelter

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 71

Information can be found by visiting the Club’s website at www.dgsfcfiji.com or search Denarau Game and Sport fishing club.

Denarau Island lies in the lee of Viti Levu on its western coast. Bordered and sheltered from the open ocean by the Malolo Barrier reef to the southwest, the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands to the north and west, as well as many other islands and reefs in between. The fishing areas are extensive and include Bligh Water West.

An exciting form of fishing which has gained a lot of popularity over the last two decades is the casting of surface lures onto reef edges. You will be in pursuit of predator fish species, and there are so many different types it is, almost, an embarrassment of riches. The fish include giant trevally, many different varieties of cod and snapper, tropical barracuda and Spanish mackerel. The lures are usually positive buoyancy-floating lures worked by the angler to cause a disturbance on the water, suggesting an attack on baitfish. Most, if not all predator fish are prone to smash the lures in the belief that they are chasing injured prey. The sight is spectacular, very visual, and results in a surge of adrenalin as the fish then settles in to put up a gallant struggle to gain freedom. It is very satisfying to reel these beauties in, release them, and see them swim away to fight another day; although keeping one for a freshly caught dinner does seems like a good idea. There is nothing quite like eating fish straight from the sea, served just the way you like it, and your resort will be happy to prepare and serve your catch for you.

A final picture for the record before this fine fella goes back home.

Hopefully for him with a lesson learned, and they do tend to learn fast.

and food to a myriad of fish that call them home. Beyond the islands in the deep, blue ocean the kings of the pelagic species, the mighty marlins as well as tuna, wahoo, sailfish, sleek sharks and mahi-mahi hold sway.

Fishing charters from Denarau Island can be undertaken from a selection of types of boats which range from magnificent

72 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

blue water vessels, equipped with every facility of luxury and comfort, to less ostentatious boats and those suitable for more sheltered waters.

Denarau is also home to the active and enthusiastic Denarau Game and Sport Fishing Club. The Club hosts tournaments throughout the year and everyone is welcome to participate.

Another favorite fishing option is to spend a day on some calm and sheltered waters with your family for a bit of handline fishing. This is something everyone can do and enjoy with the added benefit of catching a fish, which, after all, is the purpose of the trip, isn’t it? Still, no matter what sort of trip you decide upon inevitably the time will come to tell your stories about it. It’s ok; in the words of William Sherwood Fox, “of all the liars among mankind, the fisherman is the most trustworthy!”

D

Denarau Island

Golf & Racquet Club Denarau Island’s Championship Golf Course has something for everyone. The par 72, 6,513-meter resort course is beautifully landscaped through waterways, flowering shrubs and tall trees and even takes you out to view the ocean on holes 15 and 16. Above: The14th green playing northwest.

The lovely morning light in this picture shows off one of the course’s very many attractive ambiences.

I

n an idyllic setting, amongst manicured grounds lovingly developed over decades, the enchanting Denarau Island Golf & Racquet Club lies at the heart of Denarau Island. It is without doubt the South-West Pacific’s premier golf and tennis complex.

The magnificent par 72, 6,513-meter resort course is beautifully landscaped through waterways, flowering shrubs and tall trees and even takes you out to view the ocean on holes 15 and 16. The open fairways are a joy for all golfers and with four par three’s, ten par four’s, and four par five holes, 71 bunkers and an almost uncountable number of water hazards to contend with, there is something for everyone on the course. It is so popular it is

common to see helicopters drop off golfers who have come from afar for a round, then fly them out. The Club hosts many golf events that guests are encouraged to enter. Events such as the Fiji Open, Fiji Premium Pro-Ams, and Tappoo’s Member Guest Day are examples of events that guests regularly participate in.

If you would like to know about up-coming events get yourself added to the Club’s mailing list. Take a stroll to the Club and get registered, or call the Club and ask to be added to the database.

As well as the magnificent golf course the Club offers four synthetic and six grass tennis courts which are regularly home to the Fiji Tennis Open. At the well stocked pro-shop you can get

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 73

anything from a set of clubs to a cap; and book for golf and tennis coaching, which is available from the local professionals. Rental clubs are upgraded annually and currently you have the choice of Ping & Mizuno so if you’re travelling and don’t have room for your own gear you can at least substitute with something close.

And of course what better way to relax after your round of golf or your game of tennis, than by enjoying a refreshing beverage and a snack or a meal. The clubhouse is a popular venue both after activities and in its own right. It is a great place to relax and enjoy the tranquil ambience and to congregate on sporting occasions catching the live action on the flat screens. With a 360-degree bar and a menu that includes such favourites as wings, nachos, fish and chips, salads, curries and wood fired pizza; it is easy to see why it is so popular with locals and guests.

There you have it! Have a volley or two and work up a sweat on the courts. If golf is your thing whether a pro, a twice a year hack, or a regular player trying to lower your handicap here’s your destination. It’s a great place to spend a morning or afternoon taking in the lovely course setting. Enjoy the air, scenes and views of the mountains to the sea, you may even perhaps be rewarded with a Denarau sunset over the ocean, everything else is but a bonus!

D Left: Denarau Island Golf & Racquet Club is the place to play play play.

Regularly hosting the Fiji Tennis Open it has six grass & four synthetic courts.

Picture Tennis Fiji. Below: Perfectly manicured greens are lovingly prepared for your putting pleasure.

74 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Out of the bunker and onto the green. This shot was followed by a one-putt!

DENARAU GOLF & RACQUET CLUB HOME OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC’S PREMIER GOLF COURSE. Guests enjoy special privileges at Denarau Golf & Racquet 18-hole golf course, designed by Eiichi Motohashi, features brilliant views, challenging play and professional instruction for all level of golfers.

The club provides rental clubs, electric carts, driving range and putting green, and memberships are available.

After your round, visit Heineken House for authentic wood

For more information, please contact: Golf Club Manager - Amitesh Chandra Phone: +679 675 9292| Email: Amitesh.Chandra@westin.com

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 75

By Stacy Jupiter, PhD Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS)

Fiji is blessed with diverse and resilient coral reefs. At a time when many coral reefs around the world are struggling, many of Fiji’s reefs are doing well, such as can be seen here; schools of brilliant orange anthias surrounded by dazzling soft corals and anemones on one of Vatu-i-Ra’s spectacular reefs.

O

ver the past few years, the international media has been flooded with stories on the impending doom of coral reefs. In some places around the world, corals on reefs are in fact dying at unprecedented rates.

Climate change impacts are the main culprit.

There is no doubt that global warming has caused sea surface temperatures to increase. In 2017, the world’s global oceans were 0.84 degrees Celsius warmer than the twentieth century average.

While that doesn’t sound like a lot, the ocean has been storing a massive amount of excessive heat which is driving extreme ocean heatwaves. Corals are particularly sensitive to abrupt changes in ocean temperature. When they experience extreme conditions, they get stressed.

One very visible consequence of this

76 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

stress is that they may expel algae called zooxanthellae that live in their tissues.

Zooxanthellae and corals have a mutually supportive relationship. Living in tissues of corals provides the algae protection from would be predators in the water column. The corals, in return, benefit from food that the algae produce through photosynthesis.

It is primarily the pigments within zooxanthellae that give corals the brilliant colours visible on the reef. Once the algae are expelled, corals look white, which is where the term “coral bleaching” came from. The world’s coral reefs experienced unprecedented levels of coral bleaching between 2014 and 2017, during a particularly prolonged warming event.

Bleaching can cause vast areas of corals to die as they lose their major food source, but corals can also recover if the waters

cool down quickly so the zooxanthellae can return. Surveys by local scientists at the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) and other groups show that Fiji’s reefs did not fare too badly during the 2014-2017 event. This is partially due to localized cooling that the reefs experienced from stormy conditions created by Tropical Cyclone Winston, which badly affected Fiji in February 2016. It may also be due to the fact that many of Fiji’s reefs are located adjacent to the deep sea and channels, where currents transport cooler water upwards that helps to moderate warm temperatures at the surface. Also, with over 35% of the southwest Pacific’s coral reefs found in Fiji, it means that there are a lot of corals to reseed areas that may be impacted. A recent study led by WCS of over 2500 reefs from the Indian and Pacific oceans found that Fiji

Picture: Keith Ellenbogen.

Fiji’s Resilient Reefs

is not the only place where coral reefs are thriving. Over 450 reefs across 22 countries, including in Fiji, were found to have intact coral reefs located in ‘cool spots’ of climate change that could have survived the 2014-2017 climate event.

These locales are urgent priorities for protection and management, which can be accomplished through actions such as setting up marine protected areas with local communities, reducing fishing effort in these sensitive locations, and controlling activities on the land to minimise impacts from pollution. In terms of what you can do to contribute to protecting coral reefs, here are some ideas that have been endorsed by the

Picture: Emily Darling

Overly warm water temperatures cause coral bleaching and many coral reefs of the world are suffering from widespread bleaching events.

Fiji’s reefs in contrast have been less impacted in recent years, with many locations only experiencing small patches of bleaching.

You can see the result right, a fully bleached branching coral colony is surrounded by other healthy hard and soft corals.

International Coral Reef Society. Reduce your personal carbon footprint by doing things like turning back your heating or air conditioning, replacing your house lights with LED bulbs, and reducing your meat and dairy consumption. Write to your local elected representatives and let them know that climate impacts are a priority. And get involved by joining

a campaign to save the reef, connecting with citizen science networks to turn your holiday reef snorkel into a means to collect data, and supporting local coral reef conservation activities.

D Stacy is the Melanesian Regional Director of Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS).

To find out more about WCS activities and initiatives in Fiji you can visit fiji.wcs.org

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 77

Picture: Emily Darling Picture: Keith Ellenbogen

Above: The only way to know how corals are faring and why is through fieldwork, carried out by organizations like the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), who undertake regular coral bleaching surveys. Below: When it is good, it is really really good. Damselfish taking shelter in the healthy tips of branching coral.

78 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

DISCOVERING a Hidden Delight The Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier at Naiserelagi, in Rakiraki. The church was built in 1918.

The building site was cut from the sandstone hillside and the church built from the same stone.

T

here is an adventure from Denarau Island that offers the opportunity to discover one of Fiji’s many hidden treasures and it can be done within the scope of a full day. All that’s necessary is a sturdy rental car, an elementary road map usually provided with the vehicle, and it’s hi ho and off you go.

Alternatively you can hire a taxi or talk to your hotel tour desk about other options.

Whichever way you decide to go, allow a comfortable two and a half to three and a half hours for the journey to reach the church.

The stops and detours along the way can extend the journey as long as you like. The church is the centre of an active parish with more than 2000 parishioners. Visitors are welcome any day of the week including to the church service on Sunday, which starts at 8 am.

The objective of this mission is to discover some delights of off the beaten track Fiji. And this excursion certainly does that.

If you choose the self-drive option, begin your adventure early after a hearty breakfast. The navigation is basic and should be marked up on a simple map usually supplied by the rental car company or by your hotel tour desk.

You will have a chance to witness the horror of Fiji’s cannibal past by pausing beside the roadside grave of Udre Udre who was reputed to have eaten nine hundred and ninety people in his lifetime and in stark contrast to arrive half an hour or so later at the Roman Catholic Church of St. Francis Xavier at Naiserelagi, home of rare artistic frescos!

Take a left at the Nadi roundabout and head towards the airport and Lautoka. Don’t blink your eyes or you may miss Lautoka!

Just kidding. By international standards it is no more than a tiny village but in Fiji it is the second largest city.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 79

The central panel of the triptych fresco, ‘Black Christ and Worshippers’ by Jean Charlot in 1962-3. The triptych is replete with cultural motifs specific to Fiji.

In this panel cultural markers such as local flora and a tanoa, which is the vessel in which yaqona is mixed, are depicted along with the crucified black Christ.

Continue your journey to the north. Teidamu hill takes you over the saddle and into a Fiji few visitors will see – a quiet rural countryside with extensive sugarcane plantations and a tranquil atmosphere. The riverside township of Ba is next. It owes its life to the cultivation of sugarcane and its milling and processing at the Rarawai mill. This may be the time to stretch your legs. The town has a museum located by the market where you can learn more about its past. Tavua, referred to locally as Gold Town is your next reference point. It is half way to your destination at the Naiserelagi Catholic Church and it should have taken you about one and a half to two hours travel depending on traffic. Tavua is home to one of the world’s oldest operational gold mines at

80 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Vatukoula ten kilometres inland from the town. Gold mining and sugarcane cultivation are the lifeblood of the town.

Ten minutes or so after Tavua you will find Golden Point Resort on your left. This is a good place to stop for a coffee and snack break, which you can enjoy seaside.

Approximately half an hour north of Tavua is the grave of Udre Udre, a notorious cannibal. The grave is clearly sign-posted and difficult to miss. It is said he consumed nine hundred and ninety people during the course of his life; marking each victim with a stone. He ate each victim by himself contrary to the usual practice of sharing the feast with others, meaning that the flesh

Top Left: The left hand panel of the triptych incorporates other culturally important iTaukei or indigenous Fijian motifs. The man is presenting a tabua, which is a tooth of the Sperm whale. Along with yaqona, tabua occupy a central role in traditional Fijian ceremonial. The woman is carrying a mat, or ibe.

The presentation of mats also forms part of many if not most important traditional ceremonies. Top Right: The right hand panel of the triptych reflects the importance in Fijian society of the people of Fiji who possess an Indian heritage, the woman with the garland and the man with the team of bullocks.

had to be recooked a number of times. Udre Udre’s grave is a short distance from a fuel bowser and garage. The road divides at the bowser with the right fork leading to the quaint township of Vaileka only five minutes away and the left continuing on to your destination. The left fork also takes you through Rakiraki village where you will find the Rakiraki Hotel, a good place for lunch on the return leg of the journey. From Rakiraki village you are approximately twenty-five kilometres or twenty minutes away from the church. Look for a sign, on the right hand side of the road, for the Catholic Farmer Field School. Just past the school there is a driveway on the right which leads up to the

church on a hilltop behind. You are on Navunibitu hill and at your command are superb views of parts of Viti Levu Bay. The artwork in the church depicts biblical themes and was executed by Jean Charlot, a French/American artist, using buon fresco, the technique of painting on wet plaster. It requires specialist skills. The centrepiece is a triptych (one work in three panels) showing a black Christ crucified and featuring Fijian motifs. Accompanying the triptych are two other single works, St. Joseph’s Workshop and The Annunciation. Jean Charlot created the frescos between October 1962 and January 1963.

If visiting a donation for church upkeep is appropriate.

D

Two more frescos accompany the triptych in the church. Left is St. Joseph’s Workshop and on the right The Annunciation.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 81

Judy Siers from Wellington New Zealand visited the church at Naiserelagi in 2019. The children arrived after school. They are primary school boarders at Navunibitu Catholic Farmer Field School. The school is at the bottom of the hill upon which the church sits. The children live in accommodation next to the church with some of their parents who help look after them. Other family members contribute to their diet by sending fresh farm food.

You can also see in this picture that there are no pews in the church. Instead the congregation sits on ibe, or handmade woven mats.

Instruments of the call to prayer: a church bell and traditional wooden drums, or lali. The bell was part of the original materials brought to Fiji when the Church was first constructed but it has never been installed. Substitutes for the bell are the lali drums. The newer one, which is upright, is in use today; it replaced the older one which was damaged by cyclone Winston in 2016. In the background is Viti Levu Bay. From the Church hill site you can also enjoy a spectacular vista.

82 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 83

Fisher, Gleaner, Processor, Seller

Picture: VCreative

The diverse role of women in Fiji’s fisheries

By Dr Sangeeta Mangubhai Fiji’s women fishers can be found all along our coastlines and inland waterways.

Guardians of their special knowledge they are indispensible to a sustainable future.

R

ural women in Fiji are finely tuned to the rhythms and cycles of the natural environment. Throughout Fiji, fisherwomen are seen along our shorelines gleaning for clams, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and crabs. Many will wade out into knee or waist high water to find octopus hiding in crevices and to gather edible marine algae such as nama seagrapes, and lumi, another edible seafood. If you are lucky enough to meet and follow these skilled fishers, you will see how with their bare hands, sticks, spears, simple handlines or handnets, they are able to find and capture a wide range of foods from the sea.

Traditionally, women and men fish in different areas and target different species. Women fish more in rivers and nearby sheltered coastal reef and lagoonal habitats, largely for subsistence and

84 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

sale at local markets. They use low technology fishing gear with a lower carbon footprint. In comparison, men predominantly fish deeper coral reefs and offshore environments. Women tend to fish closer to home for a range of reasons but primarily because of their limited time - they need to get home to complete household tasks such as cooking, tending to gardens, looking after the sick and elderly, and childcare. They are undoubtedly some of the busiest people that you will ever meet!

Women make up a large percentage of those involved in the fisheries sector in Fiji and contribute substantially to food security and livelihoods. In some cases, they are the primary protein and income supporter for households. But their role is not limited to gleaning on shorelines or fishing. They are

playing an increasing role in fisheries businesses, processing and producing value-added seafood as well as in aquaculture where for example, they are involved in farming prawns and tilapia fish.

They are prominent sellers in many of the fish markets around the country and dominate most invertebrate, shellfish and crab and algae fisheries.

Many women value add by cooking their fish and shellfish before they sell them at markets.

These women, who possess such rich local and traditional knowledge of the freshwater and marine life on our doorsteps, are indispensable stakeholders and partners in the drive to ensure our long-term health and wellbeing through the sustainable management of our fisheries. The knowledge they hold is priceless, and it is given freely to those that take the time to meet with them, sit quietly and listen.

The Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) has been identifying unique and creative ways to showcase the roles women play in Fiji’s fisheries; and what better way than through food. Food is very much a part of all cultures, and it is no different in the Pacific, bringing families and friends together.

Traditionally, seafood is boiled, grilled over a fire, or cooked in an earth oven, a lovo. From these simple cooking options come many delicious dishes. For example a fire-grilled octopus mixed with fresh uncooked coconut cream, onions, tomatoes and chilies is delicious, add a squeeze of fresh limejuice and you have a taste sensation. Throw some plantains vudi, sweet potatoes kumala, and a handful of fresh ferns ota, into some bowls and you have a delicious healthy meal ready to share with your family.

But why stop there. There are other innovative, fussfree ways to create gourmet dishes all with delicious locally-grown produce that can be harvested and managed sustainably. Sounds great doesn’t it. Well it is, but how to spread the good word? Well, WCS has partnered with Chef Jason Allport to launch Kusima Mada, Fiji’s first sustainable seafood cookbook. The word ‘kusima’ describes the pinnacle of appreciation of seafood. And our Kusima Mada cookbook is an invitation to come and experience the mouth-watering taste of seafood. Jason has carefully selected sustainable seafood and local vegetables, and created over 80 original recipes designed to appeal to a diversity of taste buds. See over the page for one exciting example!

D Sangeeta is from Fiji and is the Fiji Country Director for Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS).

She can be contacted at smangubhai@wcs.org To find out more about WCS visit fiji.wcs.org

Picture: Shiri Ram One of the most interesting sights when travelling around Fiji is that of people selling their catch on the side of the road. It is beguiling and also represents the most basic form of vertical integration. Women who have not only caught their fish but are selling them too.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 85

Picture: Shiri Ram

Chargrilled Octopus

Clean and prepare the octopus (see page 21).

Preheat oven to 180°C/350°F.

with Balsamic Oven-Roasted Root Vegetable Salad Chef: Jason Allport

In a large baking tray, place 1 tablespoon of olive oil, kumala, pumpkin, carrot, red onion, garlic cloves, rosemary, and pepper and mix to coat vegetables.

Large octopus are perfect for this dish but if you can only get small ones that will work as well, or you can substitute with squid tubes.

On another baking tray, place the tomato wedges and sprinkle with the sugar, and place in the oven. Cook the vegetables for 45 minutes, occasionally moving and turning to cook evenly.

Serves 4 Preparation time: 1.5 hours 8 2 tbs 100g 100g 1 1 10 1 tsp ½ tsp 4 2 tsp

Tentacles of cooked Octopus, diagonally sliced Olive Oil Kumala, peeled, cut into 2cm cubes Pumpkin, peeled, cut into 3cm cubes Medium carrot, peeled, cut into 2cm rings Medium red onion, peeled, cut into thick wedges Cloves of garlic, peeled, left whole Fresh Rosemary Ground Black pepper Medium Tomatoes, cut into quarters Sugar, Salt and Pepper, to taste

Dressing 1 tbs Honey 2 tbs Balsamic Vinegar

Kusima Mada FIJI’S FIRST SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD COOKBOOK

Kusima Mada FIJI’S FIRST SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD COOKBOOK Recipes by Jason Allport Text by Sangeeta Mangubhai

Jason Allport and Sangeeta Mangubhai

86 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Place in the oven.

Remove the tomatoes from the oven once they have wilted slightly and have just started to colour.

Place in fridge to cool.

For the dressing, heat the honey and half the balsamic vinegar in a saucepan until the liquid reduces by half and has thickened slightly. Remove from the heat and cool in the fridge.

When vegetables are almost done, remove from the oven. Pour in the remaining balsamic vinegar, stir and put back in oven. When cooked, season with salt and pepper.

Leave in a warm place until serving.

For the octopus, coat the tentacles in the remaining oil, drain excess oil off, and then chargrill, turning and heating octopus through.

To assemble, mix warm root vegetables and cooled tomatoes in a bowl. Add the octopus and drizzle with a little dressing.

Kusima Mada is available on Denarau at Flavours of Fiji, Whsmith Nadi airport, Suva: Fiji Museum, University of the South Pacific bookshop, Pacific Bookshop, Dominion Bookshop. And at TappooCity Suva, Lautoka, Nadi & Sigatoka.

Browse the wide selection of wines in our shop at Denarau Marina.

We even deliver to your door!

Shop 6, Denarau Marina : Ph 6750236 www.victoriawines.com.fj

Fiji’s only dedicated wine importer

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 87

Land Ownership in Fiji Sugarcane fields on Nadi’s river-flats. Fiji’s past and present are inextricably tied to its sugar industry. Sugarcane is farmed on iTaukei, Crown and freehold land.

L

and ownership in Fiji falls into three categories, iTaukei land, Crown land, and freehold land. Freehold land maybe bought and sold while Crown and iTaukei land may only be leased. Ninety percent of Fiji’s land is owned by the iTaukei or indigenous landowners, four percent is owned by the Crown, and six percent is freehold.

Some years later the British administration considered other options but it was decided not to go back on a custom which had become part of the native policy. This recognised the right of the iTaukei proprietors to the use of their lands for as long as the clan was in existence. If the clan went out of existence the land reverted to the crown.

Fiji became a British Colony in 1874 following a Deed of Cession proposed and signed by most of the leading chiefs who requested Britain to annex the islands.

Land could not be sold without permission of the government but the leasing of it was encouraged. This policy was put into effect to guard the people against their own improvidence, as prior to cession they had alienated much of their property and it was felt, in time would have sold it all.

Although the Deed of Cession which established British Sovereignty provided that all native lands became vested in the Crown no steps were ever taken to put this into effect and the lands remained in the possession of their hereditary owners.

88 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

It was clearly understood and acknowledged that they held their lands by the grace of the British Sovereign to whom they had

Picture: Port Denarau Marina An early morning picture of Denarau Island featuring its port and marina. Denarau Island is comprised of approximately eight hundred and fifty acres with land ownership being a mix of land leased from its iTaukei, or traditional owners, land leased from the Crown and freehold land.

ceded their domains and in acknowledgment they paid homage and fealty annually by the presentation of the first fruits cultivated on their lands. Fiji became independent in 1970. Government policy regarding land has remained virtually unchanged post independence with the guiding principal that iTaukei land is not to be alienated firmly enshrined in Fiji’s Constitution. The ownership of land on Denarau reflects the different types of land

ownership in Fiji. Of the eight hundred and fifty odd acres that comprise Denarau Island approximately six hundred acres is Crown land, a hundred and fifty iTaukei land, and eighty-seven freehold. The hotels and resorts are mainly located on land leased from its iTaukei owners. Meaning that as Denarau has developed and become such a magnificent destination its land owners have increasing benefited.

D

Some of Fiji’s islands are privately owned and home to exclusive resorts.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 89

Navala Village welcomes visitors, check with your tour desk for details. It is famous in Fiji for its owners decision, decades ago, to elect to live in traditional houses on their land. It offers a glimpse of what Fiji used to be like.

Bucollic scenes like this farm compound can be found all around Fiji and not far out of Nadi town, which is surrounded by sugarcane farms.

90 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Fiji Time

New year’s day bilos, or cups, of yaqona.

D

ay to day life here moves at its own pace, famously known as Fiji Time. Some have been heard to say, “welcome to Fiji, where time stands still”. It is an apt saying. Many people enjoy a simple uncomplicated lifestyle, bucolic, even if they live mere minutes from the heart of Fiji’s towns. In fact, most of Fiji’s towns qualify as rural townships rather than bustling metropolitan centers and so the true reflection of living on Fiji Time lies not so much in one’s geographical location but in attitude, or outlook on life. And while time doesn’t factually stand still here it definitely moves pretty slowly. Even the land seems to be imbued with certain languidness. Fijians have defined their value of the important things in life in the order of God, family and community. Philosophically, they know that good things take time, there is no need to rush because if it needs to be done, it will be done and at the right time. It requires something unusually important to justify urgency and the stress that comes with it.

There is a lot to be said for not frenetically rushing to get things done - to be able to put things in their proper perspective. So while you are in Fiji adopt the Fiji Time trick and relax, don’t worry, and be happy. If you are not sure how to adjust, take a trip around and check out the sights of everyday life here. You won’t have to go far to understand. Whatever you do don’t forget to smile, remember you’re on ‘bula time’ now.

D

Catching the early morning bite.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 91

Christmas afternoon fun, and clothes washing, at the swimming hole.

The warrior escort determines the speed of advance of the chief ’s vehicle.

92 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Future stars train under a watchful eye.

Community celebrations move at their own pace.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 93

Grand Old Man of Denarau Kris (Karsanji) Raniga, grand old man of Denarau.

M

eet Kris, a grand old man whose story is inextricably woven into that of Denarau Island’s history.

Born in Labasa town on Fiji’s other big Island of Vanua Levu, he is 89 years of age. Kris began his life of retailing when the family moved to Lautoka and he and his grandfather, who was a goldsmith from Porbandar in India, opened a grocery store in Saweni. Later his brother Prabhu a pharmacist, returned to Fiji from Canada and the family moved to Nadi opening its first chemist shop. This led to Kris’s Denarau connection. Denarau’s first developer, Dennis McElraith, was a regular customer and a good friendship developed. Dennis invited Kris to open a general store in Denarau’s first resort and he accepted. So when The Regent of Fiji opened in 1976 Kris was there in his new store located just off the main lobby of what is now The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa. Kris, and his younger brother Amrit, operated the store from 8am to 9pm seven days a week for 30 years. Essential daily items were stocked, plus little luxuries, in the friendly family atmosphere that Kris created. Over the years Kris became very well known to Denarau’s residents, also the resort’s guests, and many regulars would make a point of reconnecting with him, and popping in to say ‘hi’ after checking in, on the way to their rooms. Thirty years on the store was just

94 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

one of many. Times had changed and in 2006 Kris locked up the store for what everyone thought was his last business day. His family had grown up, he has five children, two boys and three girls and his sons Ravin and Bobby and his nephew Ajay were running the company business. The family had a plan for Kris to retire in the new home he had built on Denarau in 2003.

But Kris had other ideas; he was working on another Denarau chapter for himself. And soon he was looking after the family’s general store, The Essentials, at Port Denarau. The store had been opened to continue the family’s retail tradition but no one had ever thought that Kris would work there. It’s a case of “you can’t keep a good man down” as the saying goes; it is just in his blood, and so from 2007 visitors have been able to find Kris at his new location. And find him they do. Decades old friends, and newer acquaintances alike regularly pop in to say hi. And he is not difficult to find. He starts at 8am and finishes at 6pm 7 days a week. But he works to strict family imposed rules - if he doesn’t take a 15-minute lunch break, he forfeits his day’s wages!

It is a wonderful story of a life well lived. And Kris is happy to share his secret. “Eat only fresh non processed foods in small portions and be right with family and god.” Words to live by indeed from Denarau’s grand old man.

D

I

t seems incredible that Fiji was discovered and settled more than 3200 years ago. This is especially so considering the settlers voyaged from the west and the nearest land in that direction is Vanuatu, some six hundred nautical miles, or one thousand kilometres away. To get to Fiji from Vanuatu meant sailing against the prevailing southeast trade winds unless an unreliable but favourable west wind could be relied upon to carry the voyagers all the way.

Accomplishing this feat points to these voyagers having a maritime capability far superior to anyone else in the world at that time.

After this major leap the settlement of Fiji was quickly followed by the discovery and settlement of Tonga, Samoa and islands further to the east, including New Zealand in the south and Hawaii in the north.

PEOPLE OF FIJI Oral traditions attest that some polynesian peoples from Tonga came in force to Fiji establishing new communities and chieftainships in acts that hugely influenced what Fiji is today both genetically and culturally.

The initial post European contact years in Fiji of the early 1800s were turbulent and violent with civil wars raging among the Fijians. Fiji became a haven for runaway convicts from the penal colony of New South Wales, for pirates and adventurers of every sort. Many found employment as mercenaries in tribal conflicts.

Their expert use of firearms guaranteed success, and while their rewards were women and land, most of them did not live long enough to fully enjoy their gains.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 95

Fiji became a British Crown Colony after Britain accepted a Deed of Cession from leading chiefs in 1874.

As a consequence the Islands became an attractive investment opportunity.

Between 1879 and 1916, in order to secure workers, specifically for plantation owners, labour was recruited from India under an indenture system.

Many of the workers accepted the offer to settle and remain in Fiji. Their descendants continue to dominant the sugar industry in all aspects of cultivation, harvesting and milling of sugarcane. They also, along with an influx of Indian traders, dominate businesses and the professions.

The people of Fiji today, despite their many and varied backgrounds, all agree that they enjoy welcoming visitors to their lovely shores and maintaining Fiji’s reputation as the friendliest visitor destination in the world.

D

96 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

Fijian Staple Cassava, local name tavioka, is planted from the stems of previously harvested plants. Shorter maturing varieties need to be harvested when ready, while longer maturing varieties have the benefit of being able to be left in the ground and harvested as required, in effect storing themselves for use.

Many rural households plant cassava for their own consumption as well as a cash crop for sale on the roadside or in local markets. The only real risk to the crop is if the ground gets waterlogged when the tubers may rot. This often means, in times of heavy rain, that crops are harvested to save them, creating an immediate over-supply and then a shortage until the next crop arrives. The answer is to select planting sites with good drainage. Hence the popular location of plants, as seen in this picture, in raised beds on the side of roads, often next to other crops such as sugarcane which is growing in the background.

C

assava, manihot esculenta, is, after rice, the most widely consumed food in Fiji.

Tavioka is the local name for cassava and it can be seen everywhere in Fiji, evidence of its importance as a household staple. Roadside stalls and downtown market places are where to go to buy it. A tour of Nadi market, especially on its busiest day, Saturday, reveals women piling it up in small heaps for sale.

Five and ten dollar amounts are popular. That is the way most fresh things are sold in markets here, in heaps or piles rather than by weight. Fiji is not alone in recognizing cassava’s benefits,

worldwide hundreds of millions of people depend upon it. It is thought to have been originally domesticated in Brazil around 10,000 years ago and its importance as a food crop has ensured its successful migration to much of the tropical and subtropical areas of the world. It usually takes around a year after planting for tavioka to be ready for harvest, although some faster maturing types are ready from six months.

The cultivation of tavioka is a first choice in Fiji because the plant is hardy and produces a lot of food per pant. It is tolerant of poor soil and very dry conditions, whereas the more highly

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 97

The place to buy cassava is at local markets.

regarded root crop dalo, or taro, is harder to cultivate, produces less food per plant and demands rich soil and adequate water.

While there are other culinary uses, the usual method of cooking tavioka is by boiling in water. When cooked it is soft and has a delicate flavour much like the potato, and like the potato it is used as an accompaniment for meat and fish dishes, soups, stews and after boiling for deep frying into chips. As the world becomes more populous it is likely cassava will play an increasing role in feeding its new multitudes.

98 DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020

For Fiji’s farmers it is not only an essential crop domestically, it is also an established export crop with a promising future. Apart from eating tavioka as it is, it can also, very usefully, be made into flour. It may be used as a feedstock for making ethanol and the leaves are popular as animal food. On Denarau many restaurants offer cassava chips as an alternative to those made from potatoes. It is a simple culinary adventure to try some fresh fish and cassava chips. Delicious! And one hundred percent locally grown.

D

Cassava is most often eaten boiled as an accompaniment to just about anything. A favourite alternative is to fry the cassava after boiling.

You can try some for yourself during your stay. All the resorts on Denarau offer cassava chips in a variety of dishes.

Fresh fish and cassava chips, is one obvious choice, perhaps with a salsa. Check out your options.

Epeli ‘pulls’ a cassava plant to harvest its root crop. The small plants growing around him are new plantings. The larger plants in the background are of various ages. New cuttings are planted at regular intervals to ensure a constant food supply. And to that end once Epeli has harvested the plant he will cut the stem into pieces and replant them immediately.

DENARAU ISLAND MAGAZINE 2020 99

TappooCity Lautoka

Shop international brands, Fijian souvenirs and official Fiji Rugby merchandise, grab a bite to eat at the international food court, and enjoy the latest movies in air-conditioned comfort at TappooCity Lautoka, under 30 minutes from Denarau.

Narara Parade, Lautoka

ph: +679 6666 070

www.tappoo.com.fj

Artisanal handcraft made by rural and remote women in Fiji Available exclusively at: Sogo and Tropical Trader, Sofitel, Westin, Sheraton, Denarau Island Tappoo Department Store, Nadi | TappooCity Lautoka Tappoo Fiji Market, Nadi Airport

Tropical

Trader

衝撃の光沢 圧巻の色彩美

Nadi Airport Departures