Savannah foodie
culture
by tim rutherford | savannahfoodie@comcast.net
OCT 14 - OCT 20, 2009 | WWW.CONNECTSAVANNAH.COM
30
Three bites
Tim’s restaurant hopping turns up intriguing and satisfying meals. He picks some experiences every week to share:
Second look at second labels
Smokin’ Pig BBQ
While waiting for new tires last week, I headed out with Ms. TJ to Richmond Hill to sample Smokin’ Pig BBQ — which came highly recommended by Sean at Goodyear. My Jumbo Pulled Pork Sandwich was mildly smoky, moist and tender –– just my expectation when chowing down on the quintessential Southern sandwich. Sauce, correctly, is served on the side — and I became enamored of the so–called “House:” sauce — a mustard based red sauce that’s simultaneously tangy and mildly sweet. My side of homemade potato salad was dead–on delicious. Breaking from regional tradition, this style was rich with egg yolks; the big hunks of tender white potato were loaded with flavor. Ms. TJ happily munched thorough a nicely creamy mac–n–cheese and a helping of the most traditionally prepared green beans I’ve had outside of my house. I heard the phrase “banana pudding” uttered and went back for what turned out to be a shareable portion. Rich, soul–satisfying and chock full o’ crispy vanilla wafers. It’s well worth the drive and I can’t wait to go back to sample the ribs.
Budget conscious wine lovers would be well advised to seek “second label” wines — moderately priced vinos that drink like their mainstream cousins. What are “second label” wines? Sometimes a winemaker creates a wine that doesn’t meet the standards set for the primary label wines. When that happens, the winery has three options: Sell an inferior product and risk its reputation; sell the wine to someone else to market or to blend; or sell it as a second label at a bargain price that more closely matches the wine’s quality. The other reason for a second label is also economic. Quick–to–market wines pay the bills while the best wines may linger in oak barrels in the winery’s cellar for another year or more. I just tasted 2007 Turn 4 Cabernet Sauvignon, one of those second label wines that proves a very good Napa Cab doesn’t have to cost more than $20. Turn 4 carries a rich pedigree. Randy Lynch, owner of Bennett Lane Winery, usually oversees big Cabernet projects like Maximus ( a label with wines in the near $40 range) and also boasts a Reserve Cabernet that comes to market at $99 MSRP. Lynch also owns Lynch Racing, a NASCAR West team, which explains the name, Turn 4. But does this second label juice take the checkered flag or limp into pit row? Hint: It’ll do a smoking burnout all the way to the winner’s circle. Winemaker Rob Hunter sources grapes from vineyards near Bennett Lane using neutral oak to keep the wine at its very affordable price. The result is a quaffer, with velvety tannins, bright cherry and black fruit and a nice finish. Frankly, I detected aromas of ripe blackberry and hints of tobacco smoke. The plate is solid with ripe berry flavors, subtly balanced tannins and a lingering, classy finish. It’s available by the bottle, but look for Turn 4 to crop up on some restaurant lists as well. Wanna add to the second label hunt? Keep a wary eye open for 2006 Slingshot Napa Valley
3986 Highway 17 (I–95 and 17 next to Chu’s Amoco)/ 736–7850
York Street Deli
Cabernet Sauvignon. Slingshot is a brother–sister team project in the Pope Valley region of Napa Valley. James and Caroline Stewart’s parents, Michael and Anne, own a pricier Napa–based brand — Stewart Cellars — that distinguished winemaker Paul Hobbs has as a consulting client. The family also owns Juliana Vineyard, from which the younger Stewarts have sourced for their great new, incredibly priced Slingshot Wines. The 2006 Slingshot Cabernet ($20–$23, but on sale around Savannah for $19.99) is juicy with just enough fruit and not too much oak or other distractions. I’ve had both of these wines with simple spaghetti and meat sauce, grilled beef and even a grilled, balsamic marinated Portobello mushroom. Cheese? Please, but make it Romano, Pecorino, Parmigiano or an aged Gouda. Generally, select mellow, aged cheeses for these juicy Napa Cabs. cs
First, know two things: It is not on York Street and it’s not a deli. It used to be both, but now this deli–turned–meat–and–three is virtually invisible on a spur road off Ogeechee Road. Mapquest and Google maps has it placed incorrectly. Simply, go south on Ogeechee Road and take the first left past Tremont Avenue. What you’ll find at this lunch joint is a steam table loaded with wonderfully homemade dishes that change daily. On my visit with a bunch of friends, I had shrimp Creole — which was loaded with big, sweet shrimp, lots of tomatoes and seasoned with a savory trinity of onion, celery and carrot — mirepoix. Sides of butter beans and an audaciously velvety helping of okra and onions hit the spot. But then, I heard it again: banana pudding. Same idea, different recipe than Smokin’ Pig — and equally decadent. Unlike the pudding heavy version at the BBQ joint, York Street Deli’s take on this dessert is loaded with big slices of fresh banana. It’s gotta be good for you, right? Hard to find, good for the soul — I wish they were still downtown! 114 Horizon Park Dr./ 236-5195
Upcoming tastings...
I’ll be on hand to talk about the beer pairings at a dinner Oct. 20, 6:30 p.m. at Sol, 1611 Habersham St. Six beers, five courses — a nice variety of domestic craft beer, some of which are of very limited availability. “Spicy” is the theme of the menu being prepared by Sol’s chef. $50 pp, call for more information or reservations, 232–1874. The talented painter Thomas Arvid will be guest of honor at a Nov. 6 wine dinner at 700 Drayton. Arvid is celebrated for this moody still life works that depict the world’s great wines. This gourmet, seven–course dinner will be paired with wines from Duckhorn Vineyards of Napa Valley. 7 p.m., $125pp, call for reservations, 721–5002. CS