Savannah foodie
Ox tails, chicken, and pork chops, oh my Circa 1875 tweaks
Stuffed and rolled
With the coming change of seasons, it’s ineviThe team at Taco Abajo (meaning below or table that menus at Savannah’s better restaurants underneath) are making some minor tweaks to will be tweaked to reflect seasonal ingredients the former T–RexMex location and anticipate –– and our cravings for heartier dishes. being open this week. I got a sneak peek of one of those dishes last Phase I includes the main dining room –– and week at Circa 1875. Th menu of this elegant little I got an advance look at Phase II, which will Whitaker Street eatery has been include expanding into an adjoining an interesting collection of space with a larger bar and 9– casual dishes, peasant foot pool tables. dishes and restrained The planned menu elegance. is simple and more This fall, closely aligned expect to find to a traditional braised ox taquer a than tails –– a fast food tender, rich “stuff and and flavorroll” joint. ful –– Veteran alongside Savannah a new restaurant chicken manager dish, a Christian hearty Peranzi is pork driving this chop and, project –– of course, a simultaneously Franco–into the resumed spired hamburgbuild out of er and frites. Temperance, which Ox tails were once is across Broughton the ultimate bargain Street. Count on a great cut, but food trends being a beer list and an extreme range market maker, these tough of tequila. little bits of tail section 217 1/2 W. Broughton Circa is bringin’ the comfort food have risen in price that is St./480–9050 comparable to some cuts of steak. Still, it takes long braising times, careful seasoning and skillful presentation to move ox tails onto an upscale Harold Wusthof, seventh generation leader of menu. This serving will be accompanied by the legendary Wusthof cutlery company, will be mashed potatoes and a stewy melange of English appearing at Kitchenware Outfitters on Saturday, peas and pearl onions. Sept. 10, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Wusthof will be meetCirca 1875 is a beautifully dressed and ing foodie fans of the company’s extensive line extremely comfortable dining destination –– I of knives –– which get heavy placement on the particularly enjoy the cozy basement dining televised cooking shows. Store owners David room and very extensive wine by–the–glass list. and Barbara Freeman say there will be drawings The bar side, in which you can also order food, is for door prizes during Wusthof ’s visit. a very welcoming watering hole. The restaurant side a perfect choice for a special occasion. 12 Oaks Shopping Center (between Publix and
Cutting edge
48 Whitaker St./443–1875
Test drive Italian Pinot Grigios
Cold Stone Creamery)/356–1117
Fueled by a seemingly endless taste for refreshing Pinot Grigio, Italy has nudged past France, according to the European Commission, and captured the title of World’s Biggest Producer of Wine. France, obviously, considers itself the mother country of wine production. However, the diverse wine making landscape of Italy –– from mega producers to tiny mom–and– pop wineries, has assembled its collective muscle to squeeze out 4.96 billion liters of wine in 2010. France has to settle for No. 2 with 4.62 billion liters. While that’s still plenty of l’amour for French juice, Italy has captured the amore of wine drinkers with lower prices and varietals that are enjoyable and beautiful food wines. This is a real boon for Italy’s wine producing regions, says the EC report. Even in the first quarter of 2011, the outlook remains positive, with a 31 percent increase in export to the US and an even more impressive 146 percent to China. How inexpensive are the wines? In the past few months, I’ve tasted a Barolo, a typically higher priced, big, red wine, that would cost you about $26 on the retail shelf –– that’s $15 or less than a typical Barolo. Of course, Sangiovese, the grape that makes Chianti, is all over the market as a stand–alone wine and is cropping up in interesting blends that are going to carry consumer price tags of $9–$15. But it’s Pinot Grigio that’s driving the Italian wine engine’s growth. Although it originated from Alsace (where it is known as Pinot Gris), Pinot Grigio is still one of Italy’s most popular white wines. Pinot Grigio is popular throughout the world, as a result of both its value and its popularity at dinner tables or parties. In Britain, it is the third most popular choice, following only Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The growth rate of Pinot Grigio is at 17 percent, and is slowly closing on its nearest competitor, Sauvignon Blanc. Let’s hope Italy manages the export of lower priced wines better than industry peers in Australia, where low priced juice somewhat “corrupted” the image of Aussie wines. The backlash on Australian premium wines resulted in the loss of wineries and some vineyards downunder. Test drive a Pinot Grigio yourself. In the low to moderate price range you’ll find expressiveness very similar: bright acidity (perfect for food), hints of floral aromas and a refreshing appeal. Some faves include Kris 2009 ($10.99), San Angelo 2009 ($14.99) and Barone Fine 2010 ($9.99). cs
27 AUG 31-SEP 6, 2011 | WWW.CONNECTSAVANNAH.COM
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by tim rutherford | savannahfoodie@comcast.net