Fareways
ROAMING BUFFALO BAR-B-QUE An emerging “Colorado-style” barbecue can be found at Coy and Rachael Webb’s Denver smokehouse. They dish fine examples of pecan- and oak-smoked chopped brisket, pork ribs and turkey breast, but foodies come to sample some amazing rarities: Colorado-sourced smoked pulled lamb, the big and tender bison back ribs and especially the exquisite lamb shank. On the side: Use the housefried sea salt potato chips to scoop up bites of smoked poblano cheddar mac and “redeye” cowboy beans made with dark-roasted coffee. I’m also a devotee of Roaming Buffalo’s grits with Andouille sausage. 2387 S. Downing St., Denver roamingbuffalobbq.com; 303-722-2226
OWLBEAR BARBECUE Make a beeline for this urban oasis of world-class smoked goodness hidden between a tattoo parlor NICE SHANK: Colorado and Our Mutual Friend Brewery. Lamb at Roaming Buffalo Trained at the Vatican of smokehouses—Franklin’s BBQ in Austin, Tex.—Owlbear owner Karl Fallenius pork belly and ribs. Smok never runs out of burnt is a meat purist who only serves the best, reends—the slightly charred, chewier end pieces gardless of price, slow-smoked over mild oak and that get exposed to more smoke. I enjoyed them barrel staves sourced from wineries and distillsimply on a soft brioche with house pickles and eries. Neither of Owlbear’s two sauces is neca beer. Change-of-pace goodies include creamy essary for his artfully seasoned, spoon-tender deviled eggs, crunchy Nashville hot chicharrones, fatty beef brisket and sexy pork belly that melts smoked brisket and pulled pork corn tacos. The in the mouth like Chinese char siu. The biggest best vegetarian sandwich in town is the smoked eye-openers are the oversized pastrami-style portabello mushroom sandwich topped with a beef ribs crusted with spice rub. Seating is limbeer-battered onion ring, melted provolone and ited, but if you order a beer at the brewery, you spicy barbecue sauce. can eat at its picnic tables. On the side: The street food-inspired creamed On the side: Topped with Parmesan cheese corn is elote in a cup: smoked corn and chilies with crunch, the mac-n-cheese is the best I sampled. queso fresco and lime. Don’t miss Smok’s corn The Asian-style cucumber salad coolly counterbread and strawberry-rhubarb hand pies. points the rich, fatty meats. 3330 Brighton Boulevard, Denver 2826 Larimer St., Denver denversmok.com; 720-452-2487 owlbearbbq.com; 720-667-1181
JABO’S BAR-BE-Q The granddaddy on this barbecue honor roll has earned its spot by consistently dishing quality Louisiana-style brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken and hot links for more than 18 years in a Greenwood Village strip mall. The star of these hickory-smoked attractions are fall-off-the-bone pork spare rib slabs. I also like the Chicago-style rib tips over fries with sauce and the half-pound Carolina—pulled pork and coleslaw on a challah bun. If you love barbecue sauce, Jabo’s offers diners a tiny sampler of all their sauces before the meal. Go for the Smoky Vinegar and Hickory Mustard Habanero sauces. On the side: Every dinner comes with a nice, doughy Sconut, similar to a New Orleans beignet, topped with powdered sugar and a drizzle of sweet glaze. Molasses fans will love the dark, meaty barbecue beans. 9682 E. Arapahoe Rd, Greenwood Village jabosbarbeq.com; 303-799-4432 SWITCHBACK SMOKEHOUSE You can smell the fruit wood smoke before you see the smokehouse after a long and winding road trip to the foothills town of Kittredge. It’s worth the drive to find yourself sipping a cocktail by Bear Creek and digging into cured, smoked duck breast, chewy Montreal-style brisket and mahoganyglazed salmon. The sweet-tangy root beer sauce is a perfect pairing with pulled pork and thick-sliced peppered bacon by the slice. On the side: Don’t miss the tart batter-fried giardinera (pickled vegetables), thick waffle fries and baked beans thick with brisket. 26220 Highway 74, Kittredge 303-200-0878 WAYNE’S SMOKE SHACK In Wayne’s barbecue world, grown men and women stand in line and talk in hushed tones about whether they’ll get the smoked brisket, fall apart pork shoulder, Wagyu beef sausage links or spice-crusted juicy turkey breast … or a pound of each. I understand because I’ve developed a thing for Wayne’s Texas-style smoked candied pork belly. This north suburban shopping center often closes early to ensure the meat is always fresh PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF RESTAURANTS (TOP, RIGHT); BY KIM LONG (LEFT)
EYE ’CUE: Jabo’s rib-sticking Louisiana Bar-Be-Q (above) pairs with its barbecue beans and sinful sconuts; Switchback Smokehouse’s cured smoked duck breast (right) highlights a memorable mountain-town menu.
COLORADO AVIDGOLFER | April 2020
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