Chef profile: Brian Duncan, Hunters Quarter

WORDS CATHARINE RETTER HUNTER VALLEY • Chef Profile

WITH A COUNTRY GRANDMOTHER WHO LET HER SHEEP GRAZE UNDER THE OLIVE TREES JUST SO THEIR MEAT WOULD BE NATURALLY INFUSED WITH THE SUBTLE TASTE OF OLIVES, IS IT ANY WONDER BRIAN DUNCAN BECAME INTERESTED IN THE FLAVOURS OF GOOD FOOD AT AN EARLY AGE?

It’s hard to think of a chef with a more credentialled background – from the days of his grandmother’s guidance and his first job as an apprentice chef in a French restaurant in Port Macquarie, to the Regent Hotel in Sydney in its heyday, and as the owner of the Paddington Inn — one of the first pubs in Sydney to receive a hatted status.

Brian also built a formidable wealth of experience in the very large and highly organised London kitchens of the (three-Michelin Star) Dorchester Hotel — where they employed extra chefs just to be stationed in the loading docks to quality-check incoming produce — and Claridge’s Hotel (one-Michelin Star). He followed this by becoming the executive chef at the three-hatted Level 4, and at the Establishment in Sydney.

Brian credits being mentored by chef Serge Dansereau while he was at the Regent (now owner–chef at the Bathers’ Pavilion) as one of the first significant influences on his cooking style and career.

‘He opened my eyes to sourcing supplies from small local producers and starting the big push for flavour in produce.’ As a result of cheffing in such illustrious establishments, combined with his international experience and a dedication to the industry, Brian has cooked for a host of celebrities. Among them rank the Queen, Lady Di, and a host of entertainment names such as Harvey Keitel, Jack Nicholson, Nicole Kidman, Tom Cruise and Sting. He was also chef at the 2014 Winter Olympics in Russia where he cooked for President Vladimir Putin with the

United Nations. Brian modestly takes it all in his stride and tends to remember them as much as ‘Table 6’ or ‘Table 2’, etc. as by their celebrity.

At the pinnacle of his career, what prompted Brian and Jen Duncan to leave all that behind and move to the Hunter Valley with their children, then aged two and three years?

‘We’d built a weekender in the Hunter Valley for a change of pace,’ says Brian. ‘When the site for a restaurant at Pooles Rock/ Cockfighter’s Ghost vineyard came up, I loved that it looked immediately out onto the vines, that it was so green, and had the peaceful outlook of distant hills. And we realised how good a tree-change would be.’

It was all of his background in its wide variety of different dining styles and restaurant formats — from elegantly traditional to modern and influential venues — that Brian believes led him to define what Hunters Quarter now is.

‘My focus for Hunters Quarter is a restaurant with smart casual dining with elegant food and accompanied by great wines. Our floor plan allows generous-sized tables and more spacing between them so you’re not listening to your neighbours’ conversations.’

Hunters Quarter well and truly lives up to Brian’s exacting food standards but look around and you’ll also notice the careful attention that has been paid to things like conversation levels: sound boards high on the walls and timber-padded ceilings to dampen noise levels.

Peruse the menu and you’ll see his emphasis on fresh local produce: beef from Muswellbrook in the Upper Hunter; olive oil from Olio Mio Estate in Pokolbin; wagyu beef with a 9+ marble rating from Mudgee; Laguna Honey from Harry the beekeeper; as well as lemon myrtle and kangaroo loin.

If Brian has any favourite ingredients, it’s using native plants such as bush tomatoes, pepper berries, and karkalla (a succulent sometimes called ‘beach bananas’).

On the menu, prepare to be tempted by Panzanella Salad of Heirloom Tomato, with Wood-fired Peppers, Manzanillo Olive, Whipped Goats Curd and Shalllot Crisps; and main course options such as the oh-so tender, Full-Blood Wagyu Beef Tri-Tip, Sourdough Pecorino Gratin, Confit Eschallots and Choy Sum. And we challenge you to resist the Torched Triple Cream Brie, Truffle Honey and Shallot Crumb.

‘Diners are increasingly health-conscious. As well as a demand for gluten-free and vegetarian dishes, we also recently catered to an entire party wanting a five-course vegan degustation option,’ says Brian. ‘Everyone’s different, so we can also do an amazing cheese platter if you just want to sit outside, enjoy the surrounds, but not want to do the “Full Monty”.’

And, as you’d expect from a restaurant nestled in the vineyards of Pooles Rock/Cockfighter’s Ghost, there’s an extensive selection of fine wines from their vineyards as well as its associated vineyard, Audrey Wilkinson.

‘I like the simple things in life,’ says Brian. ‘They just need to be amazing of course.’

Hunters Quarter 576 De Beyers Road, Pokolbin huntersquarter.com.au

MISTLETOE is a small family owned and run winery that was established by the current owners in 1989. Now in its 31 st year, Mistletoe’s “no-compromise” approach to producing small quantities of “true to origin” premium quality wine has seen it rewarded with many, many hundreds of awards and accolades.

With three generations of the founding family now actively engaged in running the business on a day to day basis, Mistletoe is a truly unique family winery. With over 20 different wines, including Sparkling, Whites, Reds, Rosés, Fortified and Dessert styles on tasting, Mistletoe has one of the most comprehensive ranges of wines seen in the Hunter. • All wines are made in our onsite winery • Winery tastings available for larger groups – bookings essential! • Mistletoe Wines are only available for purchase from the Winery Cellar Door • Knowledgeable and friendly staff to make you welcome When visiting Mistletoe be sure to take time to visit POKOLBIN GALLERY and MISTLETOE SCULPTURE GARDEN also in the grounds of the Cellar Door. Now tasting Pinot–Shiraz 2018

Mistletoe is approximately one hour from the Central Coast and we recommend that you use the A15 Hunter Expressway to visit us. Stay on the A15 and turn left into Hermitage Road. It is a much easier, more scenic, and safer route into Hunter Wine Country.

To learn more about our area go to www.aroundhermitage.com.au We look forward to welcoming you, The Mistletoe Family.