May 30, 2014
B9
T he R ancho S anta F e News
Food &Wine
The essences of wine tasting taste of wine frank mangio
ast week I got to thumbing through L my very first wine columns
Fresh seasonal vegetables and Tempeh, served over brown rice with tahini-ginger sauce. Photo Courtesy
John Grimshaw
Contemplating the Vegetarian lifestyle I re- religious, ethical/moral, etc. For me, it cently had a was an experiment. I didn’t start out with birthday and the thought of being vegetarian. When I it seems as turned 40, I had a checkup and my doctor though ev- told me my cholesterol and triglyceride ery year at levels were too high. I was about 25 pounds this time, I overweight and my diet was very unbaltake stock of anced; lots of meat and potatoes, very few
my lifestyle, fresh vegetables and fruits. diet, and caI decided to make a change in my life reer direction. And while I would probably to get healthier. At the suggestion of a bohave to give up my Lick the Plate gig to tanical medical specialist, (who wasn’t a make a permanent switch to vegetarian- vegetarian); I started cutting down my anism‌which I am not prepared to do, I am imal fat intake to see how my body would much more open to incorporating it into respond. I also had a thorough evaluation my diet than ever before. And while my from a certified nutritionist to see what plate licking has taken me to the occasion- type of diet was most effective for me al veggie and vegan restaurant, I wanted to based on my age, lifestyle and activity and have a conversation with someone around to see if I had any food allergies or sensitiv
my age who had made the switch and em- ity to things like Gluten (which I do not). I braced it. As it turns out, one of my good also became educated about food, studying friends, John Grimshaw made the switch the nutritional composition of everything I when he turned 40 and as a former Enci- was eating. It was the beginning of a journitas resident and someone who still fre- ney about food that continues to this day. I quents the area, he was also able to be a just got into it. great resource for local vegetarian restauOne of the obvious questions for me is rants. how do I incorporate protein into my diet? I discovered, for example, that there What prompted the move to becoming a are complete and incomplete proteins in vegetarian? Choosing a plant-based diet is a per- certain foods. A complete protein is one sonal lifestyle choice, and people make TURN TO LICK THE PLATE ON B12 this choice for a variety of reasons; health,
L’Auberge chef launches new menu By Bianca Kaplanek
DEL MAR — When Brandon Fortune says he likes to use as many local products as possible for his menu at L’Auberge Del Mar’s Kitchen 1540, he isn’t kidding. The new executive chef worked with The Wheel in Leucadia to create stoneware that helps make some of his signature dishes, such as shrimp and grits, that much more artistic. But when necessary, he imports ingredients to make the food that much more authentic as well. Fortune was among 20 chefs interviewed for the position and one of 12 chosen for tastings. “We were very careful,� Robert Harter, director of sales and marketing, said. “We wanted a chef who could match the brand at L’Auberge. “Brandon’s very approachable, as is his food,� he said. “His personality is reflected on his plates.� Fortune joined the resort in February, replacing Scott Dolbee, but just launched his new menu earlier this month. He describes his cook-
Brandon Fortune, the executive chef at Kitchen 1540 at L’Auberge Del Mar, explains one of his dishes during the recent launch of his new menu. Photo by Bianca Kaplanek
ing as modern American with an upscale Southern influence. Nearly every item comes with a story and perhaps a few personal comments. For example, he served his shrimp and grits to woo the woman who would even-
tually become his wife. His local hydroponic gem lettuces with spiced pecans, tart apples and compressed jicama feature fried, green tomatoes — not a surprising ingredient given that he hails from AtTURN TO CHEF ON B12
some nine years ago. The wine world has changed so much since those halcyon days when life was a little calmer, prosperous and most of the wine we reported on was Cabernet and Chardonnay. But what hasn’t changed, and what I focused on in those first columns, is that wine is a celebration of life and it makes sense to know how to celebrate to get the most out of it. Pour about a third of a glass of your favorite red and stay with me as I take you through the basics of elevating your celebration, with a review of the five “S’s.� The first thing that happens in this five-part harmony in the romance of wine is the SIGHT of the wine. It should be poured into a clear tulip-shaped glass with a long stem to grip. The color will vary from a deep red approaching black, found in wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, found in France and the Napa Valley, and the Nebbiolo grape, found in Barolo and Barbaresco in Piedmont Italy. TURN TO TASTE OF WINE ON B12
Stefano Poggi of Batasiolo Wines in Piedmont Italy demonstrates the smell and grip of a wine glass. Photo by Frank Mangio
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