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COMMUNITYNEWSPAPERS.COM
August 18 - 24, 2009
Restaurant offers taste of Peru in West Kendall Family dining is feature of Peruvian Express now in 10th year.
BY RICHARD YAGER
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While ethnic restaurants serving up favored fare of most South American countries now abound in Miami-Dade County, those with authentic menu items of Peru still are a comparative rarity. That’s why West Kendall’s Peruvian Express has steadily built a South Floridawide reputation for excellence of the country’s distinctive fare since owner Isaac Bader began serving the Andean region cooking nearly a decade ago. Opened in 2000, the “Express” is now a talked-about destination for Peruvian visitors as well as those who have settled here and need a regular “fix” of their birthplace favorites. Tucked into a shopping center just outside The Hammocks where more than two-third’s of the population are émigrés from Caribbean and South America countries, Peruvian Express provides a homelike atmosphere within a spacious main floor for couples to family parties appreciating the subtle differences of “ceviche” styles and flavors. Welcomed by Alda Monsalve, a resident of The Hammocks and Peruvian native, diners immediately note the burgundy-red tablecloths under sconce lighting that add an elegant touch while framed etchings of Peruvian notables and scenic views on surrounding walls heighten nostalgic sentiments. No less than 24 “Pescados y Mariscos” (fish and seafood) items with pricing in the mid-teens are listed as main courses while 17 Peruvian Specialties from tamales ($3.50) to Tacu Tacu con Bistec (a taco with steak at $13.95) represent the low and high of a second menu section. Ceviche
dishes (15 in all) run the gamut of fish and fish strip mixtures, some with shrimp and octopus, spiced with a rocoto sauce. “This place has very delicious Peruvian food,” writes “Katy” in a website review, urging readers that “If you go, you should try the Jalea de Mariscos [mixed fried seafood dish, a specialty of the house] which is really, really good.” Or, ask for Peru’s national dish of raw fish, purple onions and bits of aji (red pepper) with lime juice to savor living in Lima, Bader promises. For a non-Peruvian diner, there’s charbroiled chicken breast with rice or the Express’ own version of churrasco, a sizzling tenderloin steak with onions or fried plaintains to provides a more “Americanized” fare. A children’s menu of chicken fingers, fish strips or steak at $5.99 each underscores the appeal of family dining. Open daily at 7 a.m., Peruvian Express offers a choice of breakfasts from $3.25 up and a tantalizing array of omelets and tortillas, spiced with onions, tomatoes, green pepper, carrots and peas to please any vegetarian palate. The menu also has a wide section of appetizers, soups and salads, a luncheon menu with sandwiches and specials, all created with the special flare of Peruvian chefs. On Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays, a dining-out bargain feature provides one entree at regular price, the second at half-price. The menu is available for take-out service with advance orders by telephone at 305-386-4492 or by fax at 305-386-4247. Peruvian Express is located on the east side of the Shoppes at 104 Street, 14649 SW 104 St., just outside the east entry to The Hammocks at SW 147th Avenue.