Clothworker Winter 2015 • No 14
The
www.clothworkers.co.uk
Master’s Welcome The Lord Mayor’s Show in November was a magnificent 800th Anniversary celebration, with no less than 149 displays and floats; a pageant of great vitality and pride, undimmed by inclement weather. The diversity of interests represented in this year’s procession – Livery Companies, charities, industrial, commercial and civic bodies and Her Majesty’s Armed Forces – reflects accurately the wide-ranging activities encompassed within Clothworkers itself. I am delighted that the investment focus of my Master’s year, articulated so graphically by Jack McCue, my guest speaker at our October dinner, fits well with the entrepreneurial spirit of the Lord Mayor’s declared theme for his year in office: “Innovate here, succeed anywhere”. In September, I attended the Lord Mayor’s Election Service at St Lawrence Jewry. The Reverend and Gallant Robin Griffith-Jones, Chaplain to the Lord Mayor, delivered an excoriating sermon that left the congregation in no doubt that there remained much to do to repair business ethics in the City following the Libor, PPI and forex trading misdemeanours still being reported. He maintained that the “few bad apples” theory simply did not hold Front cover: Amelia Gibbs “Psyche” – detail of embroidered wings
and that CSR had become detached from the way people behave in
Company for its support while
increasingly drawn to the Theory of
practice.
seeking to maintain or strengthen
Change model, as applied to charitable
links for the future. These included a
giving. The model enables donors to
The Election of Alderman The Lord
dinner hosted by RedR in the
move from traditional reactive grant
Mountevans was a grand occasion,
presence of HRH The Princess Royal;
giving to a more focused, proactive
made more memorable by sitting on
a lunch at Buckingham Palace for
approach; and a good exposition of
the dais with other Great Twelve
London Youth in the presence of
this was presented at the NPC-
Masters, the Lord Mayor, Lord Mayor-
their Patron, HRH The Duke of
organised seminar I attended at
elect and City officials. It was notable
Edinburgh; and The Fabric of India
Clothworkers’ Hall in September.
that his Election speech referred to
dinner hosted by the V&A. These,
the need for the Mayoralty to work
and other occasions, provide
The year provides light-hearted
with the grain of Government policy,
opportunities for grant recipients to
moments too. The Drapers’ Great
now focused on rebalancing the
express their heartfelt appreciation
Twelve Quiz night was an
economy, innovation and exports.
for the Company’s support.
opportunity for teams to answer
I attended a number of events hosted
Grant makers, corporate funders and
history, theatre, the arts and general
by charities wishing to thank the
philanthropists are becoming
knowledge, including a photo
questions on geography, sport,
2 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
recognition exercise that linked
impressed by the cheerfulness and
celebrities today with photographs of
enthusiasm with which our bursary
them taken at kindergarten age.
recipients pursued their art and
Thank goodness our team drew on
faced the uncertainty of the next
young members from across the
unknown.
Freedom and Livery, as well as the Court!
This opening chapter, which Tamara and I very much enjoyed, was
I made a dawn visit to Billingsgate
brought to a close by two successful
Market at the invitation of the
Company events in December – the
Fishmongers’ Company, marveled at
Livery Dinner and the St Thomas’s
Blackening through the evening sky,
the seafood on display while learning
Eve Lunch.
In clouds the starlings daily fly
about the Byzantine logistics needed
To Whittlesea’s reed-wooded mere,
to clean and pack such widely-
I hope you all had an enjoyable and
And osier holts by rivers near;
sourced species before they finally
peaceful Christmas with your
Whilst many a mingled swarthy crowd,
arrive in London.
families and that this gave you
Rook, crow, and jackdaw, noising loud,
renewed energy and hope to face
Fly to and fro to dreary fen,
A visit to Tate Britain presented the
2016. On this seasonal note, I leave
Dull Winter’s weary flight again;
opportunity to observe the world of
you with an excerpt from the month
They flop on heavy wings away
conservation at first hand.
of January from John Clare’s
As soon as morning wakens grey,
Internships and short term contracts
Shepherds’ Calendar (see right).
And, when the sun sets round and red,
provide a fragmented and uncertain
Melville Haggard
Return to naked woods to bed.
“professional ladder,” but I was
Master
Anja
Texprint
Alexandersdottir
We are one of the major supporters
Anja studied at Heriot Watt
of Texprint and each year sponsor the
University in the Scottish Borders
Interiors Prize. The 2015 prize was
and graduated with a first class
awarded to Anja Alexandersdottir.
honours degree, BA Design for Textiles, where she focused on woven fabric design, including dyeing her own yarns and incorporating digital print into the woven fabric. Anja hopes to work as part of a team designing woven fabric for the home or fashion market. She is currently on a six month placement at Bedeck Headquarters in Northern Ireland, having also received the Bedeck Texprint Design Award for Bed & Bath!
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 3
Amelia Gibbs Amelia is an Artist and Designer-Maker specialising in Embroidery. She recently graduated from the Royal College of Art with an MA in Mixed Media Textiles, supported by The Clothworkers’ Foundation. Below she comments on her work and her time studying at the RCA. Practice My practice revolves around nature
intertwining bodies of a
and spirituality. I predominantly
woman turning into a
make through drawing, painting and
bird and the transience
embroidery, creating original
of life and death.
artworks and garments as material metaphors, telling stories of human
Education
beings reconnecting with the sacred
After leaving school I
complexities of nature and life.
studied my BA in MultiMedia Textiles at
My core inspirations come from a
Loughborough
deep love of the natural world,
University where I
fascination with ancient symbolism
received a First Class
and mythology and beliefs within
Honours Degree, and was awarded the
animism and Shamanism. ‘Psyche’ is
Creative Student Award in 2013. I
for a Costume Designer and, during my
a piece from my final collection at
then went straight to the Royal
MA at the RCA, I worked as a Design
the RCA entitled ‘Sacred Bodies:
College of Art for my Masters to
Assistant for a Graphic Designer.
Transformations of the Soul’. The series
continue to push my work, and fulfil
explores ideas of metamorphosis and
a lifelong dream of going there!
transfiguration, ‘The Wings of the Soul’
Psyche
part-time as an embroidery designer
Since graduating I have continued my freelance work and have also been
expressing the movement from
During my MA I was able to be a part
able to do some travelling; so far to
physical body to ethereal spirit and
of numerous art exhibitions and
America and Asia! I will soon be
consciousness. ‘Psyche’ was made by
undertake some really exciting
starting a new job within the
hand-painting organic silks and then
projects. One such opportunity was
embroidery team at the famous
constructed together with intense
an incredible dissection drawing
fashion house Alexander McQueen in
free machine embroidery - drawing
series when five RCA students,
London – I cannot wait to be working
and carving into the materials which
including myself, were invited to
on such exquisite collections and am
continued to grow and spread as I
Belgium to a Medical Art seminar
very excited to see where it takes me!
worked on them over a period of
where we drew from real life animal
weeks. It is a true labour of love. The
autopsies, a truly profound and
In the future I hope to be self-
final image is evocative of the
humbling experience.
employed and making Art, working on a range of commissions and
After my first year I also won the
bespoke creative projects worldwide
annual Colour Travel Award from the
that really intertwine the values of
Worshipful Company of Dyers; with
environmental activism, beauty and
this I spent my summer in a
conscious communication.
traditional Painting Studio in Florence and had a beautiful and thoroughly
Studying at the Royal College was the
educational time honing my skills.
most extraordinary experience of my life, enabling me to develop my
Career
practice in an incredibly inspiring
Alongside my studies I have been
and creative environment. I am so
working as a freelance Artist and
grateful to The Clothworkers’
Designer, since I was 16. During this
Foundation for supporting me and
time I have been making and selling
making it possible.
my own work at Craft Shows, including Handmade in Britain, working
4 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
Amelia Gibbs
My experience as a Trustee When I was asked about becoming a trustee for the
range of ideas from raising
Society for Promoting the Training of Women (now Futures
money through corporate
for Women – FfW) I felt honoured and worried in equal
sponsorship to networking and
measures.
alumni opportunities for our members. The focus should
I had little understanding of what
providing
be on what would provide real
the commitment might be, both in
financial
benefit for the women we
terms of time and required
assistance with
want to help, without losing
experience, but was keen to get
the cost of
the ideals of our founders or
involved since becoming a trustee
training.
reinventing the wheel.
would be following a family tradition. Through the years, I felt a connection to this charity,
FfW has given
Amy McVittie
For me, the trustee role has been satisfying for two reasons; I feel
which looks to provide financial
interest-free loans to hundreds of
able to help some very inspiring
support for women who wish to
women to help pay for tuition, books
women who would genuinely be
continue in further education, as I
and memberships, or simply to help
unable to fulfil their potential without
myself had been helped with gap
with living costs while attending
a loan from FfW, and I have learned
year experience whilst studying for
courses. Due to sensible financial
new things and developed new skills.
my engineering degree. I was,
management, the total amount of
however, concerned that working
money loaned has been limited by
My advice for any Clothworker
full-time would leave me insufficient
using only the income from the
considering becoming a trustee
time to devote to the role.
endowments and the repayment of
would be this: choosing a charity to
previous loans.
become involved with is similar to
Currently the charity is able to
for a large, established charity and
In the event, FfW has been a great match for me. It is a small charity,
choosing a company to work for; go
looking to grow and stay relevant,
support approximately 15% of
you are likely to get a well-defined
and my involvement has been in a
applicants – about 15-20 women a
role with fixed responsibilities; go for
strategic role rather than
year – but has ambitions
a small, or new, charity and you are
day to day management of
to increase this number.
likely to be involved in decisions
the charity.
To achieve this, we need
and/or projects which require you to
more capital, better
adapt to a number of different roles.
FfW was founded in 1859
returns on capital, and to
Whatever charity you become
with endowments from
look at ways of
involved with, being a trustee is a
Miss Jessie Boucherett and
supporting women other
rewarding experience and one I
others, who saw the
than financially. From a
would heartily recommend!
advantages for women to
trustee point of view this
become independent
means understanding
Amy McVittie
through employment, and
how our capital is
Liveryman
wanted to support this by
invested and looking at a
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 5
FANY Many City Livery Companies have, over an extended period, formed affiliations
well as supporting the Metropolitan
with particular units of the Armed Services.
Police in the investigation into a missing teenager.
The Clothworkers have four primary
In the present age, the FANY holds
affiliations – with the Scots Guards,
itself ready to support the civil and
In addition, they provided
HMS Dauntless, RAF 47 Squadron and
military authorities within London
communication and control support
the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry (FANY).
during a major event or incident, as
to the Elworthy Trophy, the annual
These links provide the units with a
well as providing UK-wide assistance
Tri-Service Competition between
civilian constituency better informed
for civil and military planning and
cadet organisations in London.
on their activities and thus able to
exercise roles. Open to women
pass on this understanding to a
between the ages of 18 and 45 who
Regular customers have been Defence,
broader population.
reside or work within the M25 area,
Military Intelligence and the Royal
members (of whom some 130 are
Marines, as well as British Transport
The Company’s affiliation with the
active) are trained in radio
Police as part of their Probationers’
FANY goes back 10 years, following a
communications, first aid skills, map
summation training.
recommendation made by Past Master
reading, navigation and orienteering,
John Slim.
shooting, self-defence and survival
In November, I attended the FANY’s
techniques, advanced driving and
Annual Reception at which many
casualty bureau documentation.
grandees from the Civic City and the
Formed in 1907, the Corps was active
Military were present. In her
in nursing and intelligence roles in both World Wars. There were numerous
Clothworker support has exceeded
welcoming speech, the Commanding
casualties but many members were
£100,000 since 2007, largely funding
Officer, Commandant Kim
decorated for service and gallantry.
posts at the Corps’ headquarters.
McCutcheon, singled out The
It is a volunteer organisation and,
Over the last year the Corps has
support; that was particularly
while members continue to wear a
deployed in support of the City of
pleasing in the company in which I
military-style uniform, it is – perhaps
London Police in an operation on
found myself.
curiously – not part of either the
behalf of the Child Exploitation and
regular or reserve Forces, being merely
On-line Protection Centre, taking
Michael Jarvis
constituted as a charity.
calls from members of the public, as
First Warden
Clothworkers for their financial
6 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
National Star College The National Star College in Cheltenham provides specialist residential education, training and personal development for young people aged 16 – 25 with complex and varied disabilities. In 2003 the Foundation made a grant of £20,000 towards the provision of a residence for students. Some ten years later, in late 2012, an application was received for further support for a new residential development. The College’s then existing off-campus accommodation at Overton House, a leased Georgian property, no longer met
In early October 2015, Past Master Richard Saunders
the complex needs of individual students – the lift
attended the formal opening of the new development,
arrangements were wholly impractical, in some cases
officially named Bradbury Gardens, in Pittville. On a
bedrooms were shared and there were no ensuite facilities.
morning when the heavens opened, but by lunchtime the sun was shining, this was attended by a number of
The proposed new construction would replace this with
donors, patrons and trustees. Together with staff, students
community-based residential accommodation for 25
and the development team, there were over 100 people
students in five small clusters. The units would include
present.
ensuite facilities, communal areas, adapted kitchens and sufficient space for large electric wheelchairs, enabling
Guests were given a tour of the facilities before HRH The
students to develop essential life skills and live as part of
Duchess of Gloucester arrived and chatted to students as
the community.
they made apple crumble in the communal kitchen. The
Outside term time, the
Duchess praised the design
facility would provide
of Bradbury Gardens and
respite and short break
how it enables young people
services to support
to be independent.
families. The students were equally Following a visit in early
enthusiastic about their
2014 by Liveryman, Scarlet
new state of the art
Oliver, the Trustees were
accommodation
delighted to award a grant
and its marked
of £250,000 towards the
improvement on
project.
Overton House. This has clearly been a most worthwhile project and another meaningful grant from the Foundation.
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 7
Clothworkers’ Theatre Award The Winter 2014 edition included a feature on the inaugural annual regional Clothworkers’ Theatre Award to the Theatre Royal Plymouth. The annual £150,000 award is part of
York Theatre
a wider five year £1.25m Dramatic
Royal received the
Arts programme.
award in recognition of its inventive approach
This year the six producing theatres
to work involving all
from the Yorkshire region were
members of the
invited to apply. They were:
community, including
Harrogate Theatre, Hull Truck
younger and older
Theatre, Crucible Theatre Sheffield,
people, and ‘hard to
Stephen Joseph Theatre Scarborough,
reach’ sectors who would not
West Yorkshire Playhouse and York
normally engage with the theatre.
Theatre Royal.
Plays 2012, Blood + Chocolate (2013) and In Fog and Falling Snow (2015).
The award will support Community 2015 winner
Collaborations: a season of active
On receiving the award, Vicky Biles,
Applications from the theatre were
spectatorship, a unique project, which
the General Manager, said: “We are
reviewed and judged by a panel
will see them embark on a two-year
thrilled to have been given the
including industry professionals and
programme of exceptional
Clothworkers’ Award to support our
Foundation Trustees, with York
community engagement, with the
work within the community over the
Theatre Royal chosen as the winner.
idea of the ‘active spectator’ behind
next two years. York Theatre Royal has a
all activity. This includes the annual
very strong track record of working with
The award was presented at the
TakeOver festival, completely run by
the community and a reputation as one
prestigious UK Theatre Awards event
young people aged 12 – 26 years old;
of the most inclusive cultural institutions
at Guildhall in October, a star-
a programme involving Youth
in the country. This award will enable us
studded event attended by a number
Theatre and older members of the
to re-open the theatre after a
of famous actors including Dame
community; and another large-scale
transformative capital redevelopment
Eileen Atkins and Sir Patrick Stuart,
community production in 2016/17
with an exceptional project that will
as well as the Chairman of the
following the success of York Mystery
ensure the ongoing sustainability of this
Foundation and other Clothworkers.
8 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
important theatre”.
Conservation Internship in the conservation of early keyboard instruments With the decline both in the number
involvement in a further
of instrument makers’ workshops
clavichord restoration, and
and in the number of institutions
invited me to assist with the
teaching early keyboard making and
building of a reproduction 18th century
restoration in the UK in recent years,
clavichord. In 2013, Christopher asked me
there are very few skilled early
to help in the restoration of a 1772 Jacob
keyboard specialists.
Kirckman double manual harpsichord for the Horniman Museum as part of a new
To address this, in 2011 the
permanent exhibition in its music gallery. experience first acquired at
Foundation awarded £25,100 to the
Fenton House with Mimi Waitzman.
National Trust to support Ben Marks
In the years since, Christopher has
(a private conservator specialising in
contracted me to work on all of his
the tuning, maintenance and
restorations of important historic
I am currently working with Christopher
conservation of historic keyboard
keyboard instruments. These have
on restoring a very rare and beautiful
instruments) with his training at the
included an extremely rare 1734 Spanish
1786 pianoforte by the famous 18th
Trust’s Fenton House in Hampstead.
harpsichord by Perez Mirabal, a 1789
century inventor of mechanism, Joseph
The training enabled him to work
clavichord by Johann Gottlob Horn, an
Merlin. The piano is the sole survivor of
with Mimi Waitzman, an eminent
anonymous 17th century Italian virginals,
a group of quadruple strung and
specialist in the field.
a 1786 double manual harpsichord by
downstriking pianofortes designed and
Burkat Shudi and John Broadwood, and
developed by Merlin. My work with
Below, Ben reflects on the internship
an early 18th century bentside spinet by
Christopher has also brought me into
and the opportunities it afforded him:
Joseph Tisserant and Benjamin Slade.
closer association with other collections, both public and private and has
“Following the completion of a curatorial and conservation training with The
During these restorations I have benefited
necessitated foreign travel for the
Benton Fletcher Collection at The National
from Christopher’s extraordinary expertise
purposes of research.
Trust’s Fenton House in 2012, I assumed
and continued to expand on the skills and
the post of Keeper of Musical Instruments,
I am also involved in the conservation
having worked first as the sole assistant
of musical instruments for the wider
to my predecessor, Mimi Waitzman,
National Trust and am a registered
during a one-year apprenticeship funded
specialist with the organisation.
by The Clothworkers’ Foundation.
In addition to a wealth of historical and contextual knowledge, particular skills
As part of a unique training programme
learned from Christopher have been the
that brought me from Bristol to London
hand-drawing of scale plans of
every week, I was able to consolidate
instruments and a vastly broadened understanding of their design and
my contact with other specialists and experts in the field of early keyboard
Ben Marks
construction.
instruments. This
As Keeper of Musical
included participation in a
Instruments at Fenton
restoration with
House, I am enabling
clavichord maker and
the legacy of the
restorer, Peter Bavington,
collection’s donor, George
and a series of important
Henry Benton Fletcher,
visits and meetings with
to be continued by
the National Trust’s
making available to
consultant for musical
amateur and
instruments, Christopher
professional musicians
Nobbs.
historic keyboard instruments in fine
On completing my
playing condition with
training at Fenton House,
a date range of 1540-
Peter requested my
1805.”
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 9
Notable Clothworker – John Heath John Heath (d.1641) is principally remembered for bequeathing money to
In an indenture dated 2 December
The Clothworkers’ Company to purchase lands for almshouses in his name
1635, Heath made an agreement with
but he had already become a significant benefactor in 1635 when he gave the
the Company to give them £1000, paying fifty pounds
Company £1000 for charitable purposes.
annually. In return, the Heath is believed
Company agreed to
to have been made
purchase woollen and
Free of the
linen cloth to make thirty
Company in 1594,
gowns, shirts, smocks,
following an
stockings and shoes for
apprenticeship to
thirty poor men and
William Smith. Our
women and were
surviving records
directed to establish two
show he took on
exhibitions in his name
only one apprentice,
at Oxford and
Matthew White, who
Cambridge, at fifty
was made Free in
shillings each. An
1614. It is therefore
additional sum was to
likely that Heath’s
be spent on paying a
career and money
minister to make a
were made in trade and mercantile activity.
sermon on the day of
Will Extract from Heath’s lived in the parish of St Giles without
his burial (13s 4d); and to the Master and Wardens (3s 4d), the Livery (6d
Cripplegate. Married to Mary, he
each), the Clerk (3s 4d) and the
Heath was elected to the Livery of
possibly had two daughters; two
Beadle (2s 6d) for attending such.
The Clothworkers’ Company on 24
sons-in-law are mentioned in his
The sexton of the chosen church
October 1614 and served as Quarter
will, John Hill and Leonard Tyfe, but
would also receive twelve pence.
Warden for the year 1632 to 1633.
his daughters are not named. He was
As a Warden, Heath played an active
buried in the church of St Christopher
Heath’s 1641 will granted the
part in the day-to-day activities of
le Stocks (on Threadneedle Street but
Company £40 to purchase a basin
the Company and was frequently
demolished in 1781 to make way for
and ewer with his name engraved on
recorded in the Company’s Court
an extension of the Bank of England)
them (which sadly no longer survive)
Orders as a viewer of properties. He
on 11 May 1641.
and £30 to the Livery for a dinner on the day of his burial. The main part of his bequest, however, was a gift of £1500. £300 was to build five brick tenements, each containing two rooms, for almshouses in his name. He directed the Master and Wardens of the Company to select ten poor male Clothworkers to occupy these tenements during the later years of their life. The balance was to be invested to produce an income of £60 a year to support the almsmen and to maintain the properties. The almshouses were erected on land at Islington in 1649. They stood midway along the north side of Queen’s Head Lane. In 1663/4 a pew in the gallery was purchased in
Plan of Heath’s almshouses at Monkwell Street, early 1870s
Islington parish church for the almsmen, who were expected to
10 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
attend services twice every Sunday in their gowns, which were embroidered with the Company’s arms. In 1679 a Bible was purchased for prayers to be read to the almsmen, morning and evening. The Company entered into negotiations to bring New River water to the almshouses in 1657 – but the matter was still under discussion in 1681 and as late as 1775 it was noted that New River water had still not been laid on and it was arranged for a reservoir to be dug, to be filled from the New River. The Company’s archives note numerous instances of unruly behaviour amongst the almsmen and a number of ejections of miscreants. The misdemeanours included drunkenness, entertaining female companions and one incident which led to the drowning of a fellow
John Heath
almsman. In 1740 it was ordered that the gate to the almshouses be locked at 9.00 pm in winter and 10.00 pm in
Court adjoining Lambe’s Chapel in
Essex Road, in 1873. Building costs in
summer. Any almsman shut out was
Monkwell Street in the City of
both 1824 and 1873 were met wholly
to pay a forfeit of 1s for each offence.
London. By 1870 the character of the
from the corporate funds of the
Monkwell Street neighbourhood had
Company.
The original almshouses fell into
made it unsuitable for almshouses
decay and were replaced in 1824 by
and they were again rebuilt in
In 1959 owing to an insufficiency of
new almshouses on land at Lambe’s
Islington on a different site, at 34
applications for admission from Freemen and because the almshouses were not capable of being modernized at reasonable cost, it was decided that they be closed down and sold. The Court approved the sale to the London County Council in 1963 and in 1968, nearly three hundred and ten years after they had been first built, the Heath Almshouses were again demolished, this time to allow for local development. The John Heath (Almshouse) Trust was later combined with others to form the Clothworkers Charity for Relief in Need and in 2013 its assets were transferred to The Clothworkers’ Foundation to support its wider charitable objectives.
1874 watercolour of almshouses in Islington
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 11
Designer Bookbindings The Company continues to support the endangered craft of bookbinding and each
We also provide bursaries to
year funds prizes in the Open Choice category of the Designer Bookbinders’ Annual
enable deserving craftsmen to
Competition. This category, where bookbinders bind works of their own choice,
attend master classes run by
consistently attracts an excellent standard of design.
designer bookbinders and the Society of Bookbinders in order Left: Kaori Maki
to hone their skills in particular
binding
techniques and we continue to explore ways in which we might help those at entry level in the craft. To date we have assisted seven scholars to continue their studies in bookbinding and book conservation through The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust and are hopeful of one
Below: Pamela
day establishing a bookbinding
Richmond
apprenticeship scheme.
binding
First prize in this year’s competition went to Kaori Maki for her binding of ‘The Texture of the Universe’ by Henry & Thomas Vaughan. It was bound in olive green calf with back-pared and cushioned onlays in olive and yellow skin representing birds, squirrels, deer, butterflies and flowers. The second prize was won by Pamela Richmond for her elegant binding of ‘Under the Greenwood Tree’ by Thomas Hardy. Bound in dark green goatskin, it comprises a representation of the greenwood tree, tooled in four different shades of gold leaf.
Samuel Pepys goes to Greenwich
Pepys’ tobacco box
We have recently lent a number of significant items from our
charming ivory portrait
collections to a major new Pepys exhibition, Samuel Pepys: Plague,
medallion by Jean
Fire and Revolution which opened at the National Maritime Museum,
Cavalier dated 1688,
Greenwich, in November.
both showing Pepys at the height of his career as Secretary to the
It is the largest Pepys themed show
bladder stone (without
ever assembled, comprising over 200
the aid of anaesthesia),
exhibits lent from a number of
the exhibition documents
important institutions and individuals
the great events of Pepys’ life and of
he presented to the Clothworkers as
including HM The Queen, The British
Stuart Britain including the plague,
his Master’s gift in 1677. A testament
Library and the Royal College of
Great Fire of London, the major
to his growing wealth and influence,
Physicians, as well as ourselves.
scientific discoveries of the age and
the Pepys cup in particular is a
finally the Glorious Revolution which
stunning and extremely rare example
Through these objects, which include
witnessed the downfall of Pepys’
of cagework design, made by the
amongst others a love letter to his
patron, James II. The exhibition
most important silversmith of the
mistress and the medical
features our portrait of the diarist by
age, John Gerard Cooques.
instruments used to remove Pepys’
John Riley, painted c1680-1685, a
12 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
Admiralty, and the magnificent suite of plate
His portrait captures Andrew perfectly. Against a clean and dramatically dark background, he is depicted at his desk, working, but informally dressed and surrounded by items of particular interest – two of the Company’s bookbindings, a charity report, and a small bowl designed and made by his wife Linda, a potter. Andrew was also adamant that his computer be included in the composition – so that, in centuries to come, Clothworkers could wonder just what the purpose of the large electronic object in the right foreground was! The oil on canvas painting was framed by Harrison’s of Notting Hill
Portrait of the former Clerk Continuing a long tradition of commissioning testimonial portraits of its
and unveiled to the staff and Superintendence Committee last November. It is now hanging in the Court Corridor.
former Clerks, the Company recently acquired a striking portrait of Andrew Blessley, painted by the artist Paul Benney. Benney is an internationally known
Interestingly, Benney’s father was the
portraitist, and three times winner of the ‘People’s Choice’ at the BP awards at
influential silversmith Gerald Benney
the National Portrait Gallery. He has previously painted HM The Queen, Lord
(d. 2008), whose work is featured in a
Sainsbury, John Paul Getty III, Sir Mick Jagger, and Jerry Hall – the latter
number of important collections
commission the subject of the 2000 Channel 4 programme ‘Making Faces’.
worldwide including the V&A, The Royal Collection, Crafts Council and
A self-taught artist, Paul Benney rose
representation of the human face as a
also at Clothworkers’ Hall! Benney
to prominence in the 1980s New York
profound visual statement, writing ‘it
produced a distinctive silver gilt
art scene but later returned to
is both a mirror and a projection, it
three handled loving cup for the
England where interest in his
should shed light on ourselves as well
Company to commemorate the
portraiture grew. Benney regards the
as the subject.’
Queen’s Jubilee in 1977.
owned. Tobacco was thought to ward
his diary of 1665: ‘I was forced to buy
The exhibition will run until
off the plague and this small but
some roll tobacco to smell, and chaw,
28 March 2016 so do be sure to visit
ornately carved caddy thus has
which took away the apprehension’ at
the Museum if you can.
particular significance in the context
seeing so many red crosses marking
of the exhibition. As Pepys wrote in
the doors of infected houses!
Pepys’ portrait prepares to travel Finally, from Clothworkers’ Hall comes a tobacco box Pepys once
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 13
Report from the Clerk To the casual observer, Clothworkers’ Hall is an oasis of timeless tranquillity, set in a throbbing City. This is something of an illusion. Beyond our own Company events at the Hall, we enjoy new and repeat business, on a growing scale, from overwhelmingly delighted customers. However, between flurries of such activity, the apparent serenity belies a veritable hive of industry. Teamwork
their knowledge, skills and
Just six months in, I am finding life
experience, and working highly
busy, challenging and thoroughly
professionally and collaboratively.
fulfilling. Making this possible are
Committees are thoroughly briefed
effective partnerships with the Court
and expertly chaired. Our efforts are
and, over time, the wider
directed at expanding the
Textiles
membership, as well as fantastic
Clothworkers’ capacity for grant-
A very long-standing relationship,
support and commitment from the
making, and to targeting our giving
whose huge further potential I am
small but well-oiled team of
appropriately and for most durable
beginning to appreciate, is that with
permanent staff. In this role, there
impact. The fabric of the Company,
the University of Leeds. This goes
really is so much more than meets
its history, and the fellowship and
back to the Company’s involvement
the eye (or than can be adequately
enjoyment of its Membership, are all
in the founding of the University in
covered in a short article). For this
vital to this.
1874, but is a thoroughly forward-
and many other reasons, I am
looking partnership. The
delighted that we have been joined
Grant making
Clothworkers’ Innovation Fund,
by Hamesh Patel, in the new role of
The funds that the Foundation and
vested with the University, is
Director of Group Finance, Property
Company are able to dispense are, of
providing oxygen to some extremely
and Investments (see profile on page
course, the product of prudent but
exciting innovation in terms of the
16).
successful use of our assets, which
application of modern textiles. This
take the form of property and other
should, in time, translate into British
investments. We are now a few
businesses, jobs and exports, and an
months into twin five-yearly reviews
even brighter future for the perennial
– one in relation to grant-making,
British heartlands of textile
and the other, looking at our
manufacturing, primarily in the
investment strategy. The Clothworkers
north of England. I find this
is relatively unusual in being primarily
collaboration hugely exciting and,
a capital grant-maker. Research
having recently spent two years in
recently funded by us has shown that
Sheffield, always look forward to
the need for such grants is very real.
being back in Yorkshire.
Typical day
I hope and believe that our various
There is no ‘typical day in the office’.
textiles collaborations, across
However, common to all days is
different fronts, are doing their bit to
close liaison with our excellent
foster skills and talent, and,
external advisers, the Committee
indirectly, commercial opportunity
Chairmen and, of course, the Master.
for British textiles. These bring us
Evening activities, especially during
into close contact with the industry,
the busy autumn months, are many
for example, at our recent ‘Making It
In Practice
and varied. These include enjoyable
in Textiles’ conference, in Bradford,
The continued relevance and
events in the Hall as well as those
which we co-sponsored with the
meaningful impact of a Livery
hosted by other Livery Companies
Drapers, the Weavers and the
Company is not a given. The
(to date, in London and Edinburgh)
Campaign for Wool; with the Textile
Clothworkers’ overarching purpose is
and a plethora of charity networking
Centre of Excellence in Huddersfield,
philanthropic and the Company’s
gatherings, open studios, talks, and
who deliver training; and with the
fellowship helps to underpin this. For
exhibitions – typically hosted by
Textiles Growth Programme, where
this ethos to translate successfully
organisations which have
we have recently supported a
into the ‘real world’, many Members
Clothworkers’ support in some
number of skills fairs for young
give their time and energy, pooling
guise.
teenagers who are considering
14 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015
Making It in Textiles, Bradford
academic choices and possible career
the Clothworkers and Close Brothers.
Nursing Yeomanry; and I am
options.
I dropped in as an observer and our
thoroughly looking forward to
attendees have told us that they
catching HMS Dauntless in British
In addition, we work with the likes of
found the programme very effective.
Waters and to meeting the
the Royal College of Art and Central
The next course commences in
Company’s friends within 47
St Martins where students employ
shortly.
Squadron.
traditional and innovative skills in textile design; and with Cockpit Arts,
Our interest in being a catalyst for
supporting weavers with exceptional
excellent charitable trusteeship is
creative talent to turn this into a
also being expressed in our recently-
viable enterprise. In terms of textiles
announced Charity Governance
conservation, we much enjoy our
Awards 2016. This inaugural event is
collaborations with, for example, the
a highly collaborative co-production
British Museum, the British Library,
with NCP, Prospectus and Reach.
Historic Royal Palaces, the V&A and
Starting to spread the word, each of
the Ashmolean, and I look forward to
the partners is finding that we are on
getting to know these and others
fertile ground, with discussion of the
much better.
good governance (or otherwise) of charities being a very current topic.
Trusteeship
Civic City At the start of this piece, I referred to
We also seek to foster skills and
Affiliates
the City and, whilst the timespan of
opportunity for our Members,
In a different sphere, another
the Company, and its daily focus,
notably in the sphere of Trusteeship.
exciting but, for me, still largely
differ markedly from that of the City
A number, together with non-
unfamiliar world, is that of the
as a world-beating financial centre,
Clothworkers, recently attended
Services with whom we are affiliated.
the Company values its relationship
Cause4’s Trustee Leadership
I have started to get to know the
with the City Corporation and is keen
Programme, which is co-funded by
Scots Guards and the First Aid
to support the mission of successive Lord Mayors in promoting the City of London and UK plc more widely. This account really only scratches the surface in terms of the goings-on in the world of the Clerk – and I discover new dimensions every day! Jocelyn Stuart-Grumbar
Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 15
Dates for Your Diary Young Livery Supper
Royal Geographical Society Lectures
“Endangered archaeology in the
Wednesday 24 February 2016
All lectures take place at
Middle East and North Africa”
Clothworkers’ Hall commencing
Dr Robert Bewley
at 7pm
Tuesday 23 February 2016
United Guilds Service and Luncheon
“Being a beast”
“Tea’s last guardians: the Himalayan
Friday 11 March 2016
Dr Charles Foster
muleteers”
Tuesday 9 February 2016
Jeff Fuchs
Masters and Clerks Dinner Tuesday 8 March 2016
Civic Dinner
Tuesday 22 March 2016
Tuesday 5 April 2016
Staff
Deaths
Welcome to Hannah
We regret to report the
Dunmow who will cover
following deaths:
the role of Archivist while Jessica Collins is on
Albert Oliver, Freeman,
maternity leave. Having
in October 2015
started her archive career at Guildhall Library,
Hannah Dunmow
Hamesh Patel
The Clothworker | Design by Chris Monk | Printing by Trident Printing | www.tridentprinting.co.uk
Stanley Heather CBE, Honorary Liveryman,
Hannah is delighted to return to the City, via
Likewise to Hamesh Patel
last thirteen years for UK
various archives including
in the new role of Director
listed property companies
the National Maritime
of Group Finance, Property
covering all areas of the
Museum, Transport for
and Investments. Hamesh
finance function. He is also
London and the European
is a Chartered Accountant
a Governor of Chislehurst
Commission in Brussels.
and has worked for the
School for Girls.
in August 2015
a photographer res from events where we have had Please remember that all the pictu Please ensure in the Members’ Area of the website. present are available to download il only. ema by s as we send event invitation we have your current email address t our events. o.uk if you have any queries abou Please contact events@clothworkers.c
Social Events
16 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015