The Clothworker Winter 2015 - No. 14

Page 1

Clothworker Winter 2015 • No 14


Master’s Welcome The Lord Mayor’s Show in November was a magnificent 800th Anniversary celebration, with no less than 149 displays and floats; a pageant of great vitality and pride, undimmed by inclement weather. The diversity of interests represented in this year’s procession – Livery Companies, charities, industrial, commercial and civic bodies and Her Majesty’s Armed Forces – reflects accurately the wide-ranging activities encompassed within Clothworkers itself. I am delighted that the investment focus of my Master’s year, articulated so graphically by Jack McCue, my guest speaker at our October dinner, fits well with the entrepreneurial spirit of the Lord Mayor’s declared theme for his year in office: “Innovate here, succeed anywhere”. In September, I attended the Lord Mayor’s Election Service at St Lawrence Jewry. The Reverend and Gallant Robin Griffith-Jones, Chaplain to the Lord Mayor, delivered an excoriating sermon that left the congregation in no doubt that there remained much to do to repair business ethics in the City following the Libor, PPI and forex trading misdemeanours still being reported. He maintained that the “few bad apples” theory simply did not hold Front cover: Amelia Gibbs “Psyche” – detail of embroidered wings

and that CSR had become detached from the way people behave in

Company for its support while

increasingly drawn to the Theory of


seeking to maintain or strengthen

Change model, as applied to charitable

links for the future. These included a

giving. The model enables donors to

The Election of Alderman The Lord

dinner hosted by RedR in the

move from traditional reactive grant

Mountevans was a grand occasion,

presence of HRH The Princess Royal;

giving to a more focused, proactive

made more memorable by sitting on

a lunch at Buckingham Palace for

approach; and a good exposition of

the dais with other Great Twelve

London Youth in the presence of

this was presented at the NPC-

Masters, the Lord Mayor, Lord Mayor-

their Patron, HRH The Duke of

organised seminar I attended at

elect and City officials. It was notable

Edinburgh; and The Fabric of India

Clothworkers’ Hall in September.

that his Election speech referred to

dinner hosted by the V&A. These,

the need for the Mayoralty to work

and other occasions, provide

The year provides light-hearted

with the grain of Government policy,

opportunities for grant recipients to

moments too. The Drapers’ Great

now focused on rebalancing the

express their heartfelt appreciation

Twelve Quiz night was an

economy, innovation and exports.

for the Company’s support.

opportunity for teams to answer

I attended a number of events hosted

Grant makers, corporate funders and

history, theatre, the arts and general

by charities wishing to thank the

philanthropists are becoming

knowledge, including a photo

questions on geography, sport,

2 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

recognition exercise that linked

impressed by the cheerfulness and

celebrities today with photographs of

enthusiasm with which our bursary

them taken at kindergarten age.

recipients pursued their art and

Thank goodness our team drew on

faced the uncertainty of the next

young members from across the


Freedom and Livery, as well as the Court!

This opening chapter, which Tamara and I very much enjoyed, was

I made a dawn visit to Billingsgate

brought to a close by two successful

Market at the invitation of the

Company events in December – the

Fishmongers’ Company, marveled at

Livery Dinner and the St Thomas’s

Blackening through the evening sky,

the seafood on display while learning

Eve Lunch.

In clouds the starlings daily fly

about the Byzantine logistics needed

To Whittlesea’s reed-wooded mere,

to clean and pack such widely-

I hope you all had an enjoyable and

And osier holts by rivers near;

sourced species before they finally

peaceful Christmas with your

Whilst many a mingled swarthy crowd,

arrive in London.

families and that this gave you

Rook, crow, and jackdaw, noising loud,

renewed energy and hope to face

Fly to and fro to dreary fen,

A visit to Tate Britain presented the

2016. On this seasonal note, I leave

Dull Winter’s weary flight again;

opportunity to observe the world of

you with an excerpt from the month

They flop on heavy wings away

conservation at first hand.

of January from John Clare’s

As soon as morning wakens grey,

Internships and short term contracts

Shepherds’ Calendar (see right).

And, when the sun sets round and red,

provide a fragmented and uncertain

Melville Haggard

Return to naked woods to bed.

“professional ladder,” but I was





We are one of the major supporters

Anja studied at Heriot Watt

of Texprint and each year sponsor the

University in the Scottish Borders

Interiors Prize. The 2015 prize was

and graduated with a first class

awarded to Anja Alexandersdottir.

honours degree, BA Design for Textiles, where she focused on woven fabric design, including dyeing her own yarns and incorporating digital print into the woven fabric. Anja hopes to work as part of a team designing woven fabric for the home or fashion market. She is currently on a six month placement at Bedeck Headquarters in Northern Ireland, having also received the Bedeck Texprint Design Award for Bed & Bath!

Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 3

Amelia Gibbs Amelia is an Artist and Designer-Maker specialising in Embroidery. She recently graduated from the Royal College of Art with an MA in Mixed Media Textiles, supported by The Clothworkers’ Foundation. Below she comments on her work and her time studying at the RCA. Practice My practice revolves around nature

intertwining bodies of a

and spirituality. I predominantly

woman turning into a

make through drawing, painting and

bird and the transience

embroidery, creating original

of life and death.

artworks and garments as material metaphors, telling stories of human


beings reconnecting with the sacred

After leaving school I

complexities of nature and life.

studied my BA in MultiMedia Textiles at

My core inspirations come from a


deep love of the natural world,

University where I

fascination with ancient symbolism

received a First Class

and mythology and beliefs within

Honours Degree, and was awarded the

animism and Shamanism. ‘Psyche’ is

Creative Student Award in 2013. I

for a Costume Designer and, during my

a piece from my final collection at

then went straight to the Royal

MA at the RCA, I worked as a Design

the RCA entitled ‘Sacred Bodies:

College of Art for my Masters to

Assistant for a Graphic Designer.

Transformations of the Soul’. The series

continue to push my work, and fulfil

explores ideas of metamorphosis and

a lifelong dream of going there!

transfiguration, ‘The Wings of the Soul’


part-time as an embroidery designer

Since graduating I have continued my freelance work and have also been

expressing the movement from

During my MA I was able to be a part

able to do some travelling; so far to

physical body to ethereal spirit and

of numerous art exhibitions and

America and Asia! I will soon be

consciousness. ‘Psyche’ was made by

undertake some really exciting

starting a new job within the

hand-painting organic silks and then

projects. One such opportunity was

embroidery team at the famous

constructed together with intense

an incredible dissection drawing

fashion house Alexander McQueen in

free machine embroidery - drawing

series when five RCA students,

London – I cannot wait to be working

and carving into the materials which

including myself, were invited to

on such exquisite collections and am

continued to grow and spread as I

Belgium to a Medical Art seminar

very excited to see where it takes me!

worked on them over a period of

where we drew from real life animal

weeks. It is a true labour of love. The

autopsies, a truly profound and

In the future I hope to be self-

final image is evocative of the

humbling experience.

employed and making Art, working on a range of commissions and

After my first year I also won the

bespoke creative projects worldwide

annual Colour Travel Award from the

that really intertwine the values of

Worshipful Company of Dyers; with

environmental activism, beauty and

this I spent my summer in a

conscious communication.

traditional Painting Studio in Florence and had a beautiful and thoroughly

Studying at the Royal College was the

educational time honing my skills.

most extraordinary experience of my life, enabling me to develop my


practice in an incredibly inspiring

Alongside my studies I have been

and creative environment. I am so

working as a freelance Artist and

grateful to The Clothworkers’

Designer, since I was 16. During this

Foundation for supporting me and

time I have been making and selling

making it possible.

my own work at Craft Shows, including Handmade in Britain, working

4 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

Amelia Gibbs

My experience as a Trustee When I was asked about becoming a trustee for the

range of ideas from raising

Society for Promoting the Training of Women (now Futures

money through corporate

for Women – FfW) I felt honoured and worried in equal

sponsorship to networking and


alumni opportunities for our members. The focus should

I had little understanding of what


be on what would provide real

the commitment might be, both in


benefit for the women we

terms of time and required

assistance with

want to help, without losing

experience, but was keen to get

the cost of

the ideals of our founders or

involved since becoming a trustee


reinventing the wheel.

would be following a family tradition. Through the years, I felt a connection to this charity,

FfW has given

Amy McVittie

For me, the trustee role has been satisfying for two reasons; I feel

which looks to provide financial

interest-free loans to hundreds of

able to help some very inspiring

support for women who wish to

women to help pay for tuition, books

women who would genuinely be

continue in further education, as I

and memberships, or simply to help

unable to fulfil their potential without

myself had been helped with gap

with living costs while attending

a loan from FfW, and I have learned

year experience whilst studying for

courses. Due to sensible financial

new things and developed new skills.

my engineering degree. I was,

management, the total amount of

however, concerned that working

money loaned has been limited by

My advice for any Clothworker

full-time would leave me insufficient

using only the income from the

considering becoming a trustee

time to devote to the role.

endowments and the repayment of

would be this: choosing a charity to

previous loans.

become involved with is similar to

Currently the charity is able to

for a large, established charity and

In the event, FfW has been a great match for me. It is a small charity,

choosing a company to work for; go

looking to grow and stay relevant,

support approximately 15% of

you are likely to get a well-defined

and my involvement has been in a

applicants – about 15-20 women a

role with fixed responsibilities; go for

strategic role rather than

year – but has ambitions

a small, or new, charity and you are

day to day management of

to increase this number.

likely to be involved in decisions

the charity.

To achieve this, we need

and/or projects which require you to

more capital, better

adapt to a number of different roles.

FfW was founded in 1859

returns on capital, and to

Whatever charity you become

with endowments from

look at ways of

involved with, being a trustee is a

Miss Jessie Boucherett and

supporting women other

rewarding experience and one I

others, who saw the

than financially. From a

would heartily recommend!

advantages for women to

trustee point of view this

become independent

means understanding

Amy McVittie

through employment, and

how our capital is


wanted to support this by

invested and looking at a

Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 5

FANY Many City Livery Companies have, over an extended period, formed affiliations

well as supporting the Metropolitan

with particular units of the Armed Services.

Police in the investigation into a missing teenager.

The Clothworkers have four primary

In the present age, the FANY holds

affiliations – with the Scots Guards,

itself ready to support the civil and

In addition, they provided

HMS Dauntless, RAF 47 Squadron and

military authorities within London

communication and control support

the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry (FANY).

during a major event or incident, as

to the Elworthy Trophy, the annual

These links provide the units with a

well as providing UK-wide assistance

Tri-Service Competition between

civilian constituency better informed

for civil and military planning and

cadet organisations in London.

on their activities and thus able to

exercise roles. Open to women

pass on this understanding to a

between the ages of 18 and 45 who

Regular customers have been Defence,

broader population.

reside or work within the M25 area,

Military Intelligence and the Royal

members (of whom some 130 are

Marines, as well as British Transport

The Company’s affiliation with the

active) are trained in radio

Police as part of their Probationers’

FANY goes back 10 years, following a

communications, first aid skills, map

summation training.

recommendation made by Past Master

reading, navigation and orienteering,

John Slim.

shooting, self-defence and survival

In November, I attended the FANY’s

techniques, advanced driving and

Annual Reception at which many

casualty bureau documentation.

grandees from the Civic City and the

Formed in 1907, the Corps was active

Military were present. In her

in nursing and intelligence roles in both World Wars. There were numerous

Clothworker support has exceeded

welcoming speech, the Commanding

casualties but many members were

£100,000 since 2007, largely funding

Officer, Commandant Kim

decorated for service and gallantry.

posts at the Corps’ headquarters.

McCutcheon, singled out The

It is a volunteer organisation and,

Over the last year the Corps has

support; that was particularly

while members continue to wear a

deployed in support of the City of

pleasing in the company in which I

military-style uniform, it is – perhaps

London Police in an operation on

found myself.

curiously – not part of either the

behalf of the Child Exploitation and

regular or reserve Forces, being merely

On-line Protection Centre, taking

Michael Jarvis

constituted as a charity.

calls from members of the public, as

First Warden

Clothworkers for their financial

6 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

National Star College The National Star College in Cheltenham provides specialist residential education, training and personal development for young people aged 16 – 25 with complex and varied disabilities. In 2003 the Foundation made a grant of £20,000 towards the provision of a residence for students. Some ten years later, in late 2012, an application was received for further support for a new residential development. The College’s then existing off-campus accommodation at Overton House, a leased Georgian property, no longer met

In early October 2015, Past Master Richard Saunders

the complex needs of individual students – the lift

attended the formal opening of the new development,

arrangements were wholly impractical, in some cases

officially named Bradbury Gardens, in Pittville. On a

bedrooms were shared and there were no ensuite facilities.

morning when the heavens opened, but by lunchtime the sun was shining, this was attended by a number of

The proposed new construction would replace this with

donors, patrons and trustees. Together with staff, students

community-based residential accommodation for 25

and the development team, there were over 100 people

students in five small clusters. The units would include


ensuite facilities, communal areas, adapted kitchens and sufficient space for large electric wheelchairs, enabling

Guests were given a tour of the facilities before HRH The

students to develop essential life skills and live as part of

Duchess of Gloucester arrived and chatted to students as

the community.

they made apple crumble in the communal kitchen. The

Outside term time, the

Duchess praised the design

facility would provide

of Bradbury Gardens and

respite and short break

how it enables young people

services to support

to be independent.

families. The students were equally Following a visit in early

enthusiastic about their

2014 by Liveryman, Scarlet

new state of the art

Oliver, the Trustees were


delighted to award a grant

and its marked

of £250,000 towards the

improvement on


Overton House. This has clearly been a most worthwhile project and another meaningful grant from the Foundation.

Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 7

Clothworkers’ Theatre Award The Winter 2014 edition included a feature on the inaugural annual regional Clothworkers’ Theatre Award to the Theatre Royal Plymouth. The annual £150,000 award is part of

York Theatre

a wider five year £1.25m Dramatic

Royal received the

Arts programme.

award in recognition of its inventive approach

This year the six producing theatres

to work involving all

from the Yorkshire region were

members of the

invited to apply. They were:

community, including

Harrogate Theatre, Hull Truck

younger and older

Theatre, Crucible Theatre Sheffield,

people, and ‘hard to

Stephen Joseph Theatre Scarborough,

reach’ sectors who would not

West Yorkshire Playhouse and York

normally engage with the theatre.

Theatre Royal.

Plays 2012, Blood + Chocolate (2013) and In Fog and Falling Snow (2015).

The award will support Community 2015 winner

Collaborations: a season of active

On receiving the award, Vicky Biles,

Applications from the theatre were

spectatorship, a unique project, which

the General Manager, said: “We are

reviewed and judged by a panel

will see them embark on a two-year

thrilled to have been given the

including industry professionals and

programme of exceptional

Clothworkers’ Award to support our

Foundation Trustees, with York

community engagement, with the

work within the community over the

Theatre Royal chosen as the winner.

idea of the ‘active spectator’ behind

next two years. York Theatre Royal has a

all activity. This includes the annual

very strong track record of working with

The award was presented at the

TakeOver festival, completely run by

the community and a reputation as one

prestigious UK Theatre Awards event

young people aged 12 – 26 years old;

of the most inclusive cultural institutions

at Guildhall in October, a star-

a programme involving Youth

in the country. This award will enable us

studded event attended by a number

Theatre and older members of the

to re-open the theatre after a

of famous actors including Dame

community; and another large-scale

transformative capital redevelopment

Eileen Atkins and Sir Patrick Stuart,

community production in 2016/17

with an exceptional project that will

as well as the Chairman of the

following the success of York Mystery

ensure the ongoing sustainability of this

Foundation and other Clothworkers.

8 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

important theatre”.

Conservation Internship in the conservation of early keyboard instruments With the decline both in the number

involvement in a further

of instrument makers’ workshops

clavichord restoration, and

and in the number of institutions

invited me to assist with the

teaching early keyboard making and

building of a reproduction 18th century

restoration in the UK in recent years,

clavichord. In 2013, Christopher asked me

there are very few skilled early

to help in the restoration of a 1772 Jacob

keyboard specialists.

Kirckman double manual harpsichord for the Horniman Museum as part of a new

To address this, in 2011 the

permanent exhibition in its music gallery. experience first acquired at

Foundation awarded £25,100 to the

Fenton House with Mimi Waitzman.

National Trust to support Ben Marks

In the years since, Christopher has

(a private conservator specialising in

contracted me to work on all of his

the tuning, maintenance and

restorations of important historic

I am currently working with Christopher

conservation of historic keyboard

keyboard instruments. These have

on restoring a very rare and beautiful

instruments) with his training at the

included an extremely rare 1734 Spanish

1786 pianoforte by the famous 18th

Trust’s Fenton House in Hampstead.

harpsichord by Perez Mirabal, a 1789

century inventor of mechanism, Joseph

The training enabled him to work

clavichord by Johann Gottlob Horn, an

Merlin. The piano is the sole survivor of

with Mimi Waitzman, an eminent

anonymous 17th century Italian virginals,

a group of quadruple strung and

specialist in the field.

a 1786 double manual harpsichord by

downstriking pianofortes designed and

Burkat Shudi and John Broadwood, and

developed by Merlin. My work with

Below, Ben reflects on the internship

an early 18th century bentside spinet by

Christopher has also brought me into

and the opportunities it afforded him:

Joseph Tisserant and Benjamin Slade.

closer association with other collections, both public and private and has

“Following the completion of a curatorial and conservation training with The

During these restorations I have benefited

necessitated foreign travel for the

Benton Fletcher Collection at The National

from Christopher’s extraordinary expertise

purposes of research.

Trust’s Fenton House in 2012, I assumed

and continued to expand on the skills and

the post of Keeper of Musical Instruments,

I am also involved in the conservation

having worked first as the sole assistant

of musical instruments for the wider

to my predecessor, Mimi Waitzman,

National Trust and am a registered

during a one-year apprenticeship funded

specialist with the organisation.

by The Clothworkers’ Foundation.

In addition to a wealth of historical and contextual knowledge, particular skills

As part of a unique training programme

learned from Christopher have been the

that brought me from Bristol to London

hand-drawing of scale plans of

every week, I was able to consolidate

instruments and a vastly broadened understanding of their design and

my contact with other specialists and experts in the field of early keyboard

Ben Marks


instruments. This

As Keeper of Musical

included participation in a

Instruments at Fenton

restoration with

House, I am enabling

clavichord maker and

the legacy of the

restorer, Peter Bavington,

collection’s donor, George

and a series of important

Henry Benton Fletcher,

visits and meetings with

to be continued by

the National Trust’s

making available to

consultant for musical

amateur and

instruments, Christopher

professional musicians


historic keyboard instruments in fine

On completing my

playing condition with

training at Fenton House,

a date range of 1540-

Peter requested my


Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 9

Notable Clothworker – John Heath John Heath (d.1641) is principally remembered for bequeathing money to

In an indenture dated 2 December

The Clothworkers’ Company to purchase lands for almshouses in his name

1635, Heath made an agreement with

but he had already become a significant benefactor in 1635 when he gave the

the Company to give them £1000, paying fifty pounds

Company £1000 for charitable purposes.

annually. In return, the Heath is believed

Company agreed to

to have been made

purchase woollen and

Free of the

linen cloth to make thirty

Company in 1594,

gowns, shirts, smocks,

following an

stockings and shoes for

apprenticeship to

thirty poor men and

William Smith. Our

women and were

surviving records

directed to establish two

show he took on

exhibitions in his name

only one apprentice,

at Oxford and

Matthew White, who

Cambridge, at fifty

was made Free in

shillings each. An

1614. It is therefore

additional sum was to

likely that Heath’s

be spent on paying a

career and money

minister to make a

were made in trade and mercantile activity.

sermon on the day of

Will Extract from Heath’s lived in the parish of St Giles without

his burial (13s 4d); and to the Master and Wardens (3s 4d), the Livery (6d

Cripplegate. Married to Mary, he

each), the Clerk (3s 4d) and the

Heath was elected to the Livery of

possibly had two daughters; two

Beadle (2s 6d) for attending such.

The Clothworkers’ Company on 24

sons-in-law are mentioned in his

The sexton of the chosen church

October 1614 and served as Quarter

will, John Hill and Leonard Tyfe, but

would also receive twelve pence.

Warden for the year 1632 to 1633.

his daughters are not named. He was

As a Warden, Heath played an active

buried in the church of St Christopher

Heath’s 1641 will granted the

part in the day-to-day activities of

le Stocks (on Threadneedle Street but

Company £40 to purchase a basin

the Company and was frequently

demolished in 1781 to make way for

and ewer with his name engraved on

recorded in the Company’s Court

an extension of the Bank of England)

them (which sadly no longer survive)

Orders as a viewer of properties. He

on 11 May 1641.

and £30 to the Livery for a dinner on the day of his burial. The main part of his bequest, however, was a gift of £1500. £300 was to build five brick tenements, each containing two rooms, for almshouses in his name. He directed the Master and Wardens of the Company to select ten poor male Clothworkers to occupy these tenements during the later years of their life. The balance was to be invested to produce an income of £60 a year to support the almsmen and to maintain the properties. The almshouses were erected on land at Islington in 1649. They stood midway along the north side of Queen’s Head Lane. In 1663/4 a pew in the gallery was purchased in

Plan of Heath’s almshouses at Monkwell Street, early 1870s

Islington parish church for the almsmen, who were expected to

10 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

attend services twice every Sunday in their gowns, which were embroidered with the Company’s arms. In 1679 a Bible was purchased for prayers to be read to the almsmen, morning and evening. The Company entered into negotiations to bring New River water to the almshouses in 1657 – but the matter was still under discussion in 1681 and as late as 1775 it was noted that New River water had still not been laid on and it was arranged for a reservoir to be dug, to be filled from the New River. The Company’s archives note numerous instances of unruly behaviour amongst the almsmen and a number of ejections of miscreants. The misdemeanours included drunkenness, entertaining female companions and one incident which led to the drowning of a fellow

John Heath

almsman. In 1740 it was ordered that the gate to the almshouses be locked at 9.00 pm in winter and 10.00 pm in

Court adjoining Lambe’s Chapel in

Essex Road, in 1873. Building costs in

summer. Any almsman shut out was

Monkwell Street in the City of

both 1824 and 1873 were met wholly

to pay a forfeit of 1s for each offence.

London. By 1870 the character of the

from the corporate funds of the

Monkwell Street neighbourhood had


The original almshouses fell into

made it unsuitable for almshouses

decay and were replaced in 1824 by

and they were again rebuilt in

In 1959 owing to an insufficiency of

new almshouses on land at Lambe’s

Islington on a different site, at 34

applications for admission from Freemen and because the almshouses were not capable of being modernized at reasonable cost, it was decided that they be closed down and sold. The Court approved the sale to the London County Council in 1963 and in 1968, nearly three hundred and ten years after they had been first built, the Heath Almshouses were again demolished, this time to allow for local development. The John Heath (Almshouse) Trust was later combined with others to form the Clothworkers Charity for Relief in Need and in 2013 its assets were transferred to The Clothworkers’ Foundation to support its wider charitable objectives.

1874 watercolour of almshouses in Islington

Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 11

Designer Bookbindings The Company continues to support the endangered craft of bookbinding and each

We also provide bursaries to

year funds prizes in the Open Choice category of the Designer Bookbinders’ Annual

enable deserving craftsmen to

Competition. This category, where bookbinders bind works of their own choice,

attend master classes run by

consistently attracts an excellent standard of design.

designer bookbinders and the Society of Bookbinders in order Left: Kaori Maki

to hone their skills in particular


techniques and we continue to explore ways in which we might help those at entry level in the craft. To date we have assisted seven scholars to continue their studies in bookbinding and book conservation through The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust and are hopeful of one

Below: Pamela

day establishing a bookbinding


apprenticeship scheme.


First prize in this year’s competition went to Kaori Maki for her binding of ‘The Texture of the Universe’ by Henry & Thomas Vaughan. It was bound in olive green calf with back-pared and cushioned onlays in olive and yellow skin representing birds, squirrels, deer, butterflies and flowers. The second prize was won by Pamela Richmond for her elegant binding of ‘Under the Greenwood Tree’ by Thomas Hardy. Bound in dark green goatskin, it comprises a representation of the greenwood tree, tooled in four different shades of gold leaf.

Samuel Pepys goes to Greenwich

Pepys’ tobacco box

We have recently lent a number of significant items from our

charming ivory portrait

collections to a major new Pepys exhibition, Samuel Pepys: Plague,

medallion by Jean

Fire and Revolution which opened at the National Maritime Museum,

Cavalier dated 1688,

Greenwich, in November.

both showing Pepys at the height of his career as Secretary to the

It is the largest Pepys themed show

bladder stone (without

ever assembled, comprising over 200

the aid of anaesthesia),

exhibits lent from a number of

the exhibition documents

important institutions and individuals

the great events of Pepys’ life and of

he presented to the Clothworkers as

including HM The Queen, The British

Stuart Britain including the plague,

his Master’s gift in 1677. A testament

Library and the Royal College of

Great Fire of London, the major

to his growing wealth and influence,

Physicians, as well as ourselves.

scientific discoveries of the age and

the Pepys cup in particular is a

finally the Glorious Revolution which

stunning and extremely rare example

Through these objects, which include

witnessed the downfall of Pepys’

of cagework design, made by the

amongst others a love letter to his

patron, James II. The exhibition

most important silversmith of the

mistress and the medical

features our portrait of the diarist by

age, John Gerard Cooques.

instruments used to remove Pepys’

John Riley, painted c1680-1685, a

12 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

Admiralty, and the magnificent suite of plate

His portrait captures Andrew perfectly. Against a clean and dramatically dark background, he is depicted at his desk, working, but informally dressed and surrounded by items of particular interest – two of the Company’s bookbindings, a charity report, and a small bowl designed and made by his wife Linda, a potter. Andrew was also adamant that his computer be included in the composition – so that, in centuries to come, Clothworkers could wonder just what the purpose of the large electronic object in the right foreground was! The oil on canvas painting was framed by Harrison’s of Notting Hill

Portrait of the former Clerk Continuing a long tradition of commissioning testimonial portraits of its

and unveiled to the staff and Superintendence Committee last November. It is now hanging in the Court Corridor.

former Clerks, the Company recently acquired a striking portrait of Andrew Blessley, painted by the artist Paul Benney. Benney is an internationally known

Interestingly, Benney’s father was the

portraitist, and three times winner of the ‘People’s Choice’ at the BP awards at

influential silversmith Gerald Benney

the National Portrait Gallery. He has previously painted HM The Queen, Lord

(d. 2008), whose work is featured in a

Sainsbury, John Paul Getty III, Sir Mick Jagger, and Jerry Hall – the latter

number of important collections

commission the subject of the 2000 Channel 4 programme ‘Making Faces’.

worldwide including the V&A, The Royal Collection, Crafts Council and

A self-taught artist, Paul Benney rose

representation of the human face as a

also at Clothworkers’ Hall! Benney

to prominence in the 1980s New York

profound visual statement, writing ‘it

produced a distinctive silver gilt

art scene but later returned to

is both a mirror and a projection, it

three handled loving cup for the

England where interest in his

should shed light on ourselves as well

Company to commemorate the

portraiture grew. Benney regards the

as the subject.’

Queen’s Jubilee in 1977.

owned. Tobacco was thought to ward

his diary of 1665: ‘I was forced to buy

The exhibition will run until

off the plague and this small but

some roll tobacco to smell, and chaw,

28 March 2016 so do be sure to visit

ornately carved caddy thus has

which took away the apprehension’ at

the Museum if you can.

particular significance in the context

seeing so many red crosses marking

of the exhibition. As Pepys wrote in

the doors of infected houses!

Pepys’ portrait prepares to travel Finally, from Clothworkers’ Hall comes a tobacco box Pepys once

Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 13

Report from the Clerk To the casual observer, Clothworkers’ Hall is an oasis of timeless tranquillity, set in a throbbing City. This is something of an illusion. Beyond our own Company events at the Hall, we enjoy new and repeat business, on a growing scale, from overwhelmingly delighted customers. However, between flurries of such activity, the apparent serenity belies a veritable hive of industry. Teamwork

their knowledge, skills and

Just six months in, I am finding life

experience, and working highly

busy, challenging and thoroughly

professionally and collaboratively.

fulfilling. Making this possible are

Committees are thoroughly briefed

effective partnerships with the Court

and expertly chaired. Our efforts are

and, over time, the wider

directed at expanding the


membership, as well as fantastic

Clothworkers’ capacity for grant-

A very long-standing relationship,

support and commitment from the

making, and to targeting our giving

whose huge further potential I am

small but well-oiled team of

appropriately and for most durable

beginning to appreciate, is that with

permanent staff. In this role, there

impact. The fabric of the Company,

the University of Leeds. This goes

really is so much more than meets

its history, and the fellowship and

back to the Company’s involvement

the eye (or than can be adequately

enjoyment of its Membership, are all

in the founding of the University in

covered in a short article). For this

vital to this.

1874, but is a thoroughly forward-

and many other reasons, I am

looking partnership. The

delighted that we have been joined

Grant making

Clothworkers’ Innovation Fund,

by Hamesh Patel, in the new role of

The funds that the Foundation and

vested with the University, is

Director of Group Finance, Property

Company are able to dispense are, of

providing oxygen to some extremely

and Investments (see profile on page

course, the product of prudent but

exciting innovation in terms of the


successful use of our assets, which

application of modern textiles. This

take the form of property and other

should, in time, translate into British

investments. We are now a few

businesses, jobs and exports, and an

months into twin five-yearly reviews

even brighter future for the perennial

– one in relation to grant-making,

British heartlands of textile

and the other, looking at our

manufacturing, primarily in the

investment strategy. The Clothworkers

north of England. I find this

is relatively unusual in being primarily

collaboration hugely exciting and,

a capital grant-maker. Research

having recently spent two years in

recently funded by us has shown that

Sheffield, always look forward to

the need for such grants is very real.

being back in Yorkshire.

Typical day

I hope and believe that our various

There is no ‘typical day in the office’.

textiles collaborations, across

However, common to all days is

different fronts, are doing their bit to

close liaison with our excellent

foster skills and talent, and,

external advisers, the Committee

indirectly, commercial opportunity

Chairmen and, of course, the Master.

for British textiles. These bring us

Evening activities, especially during

into close contact with the industry,

the busy autumn months, are many

for example, at our recent ‘Making It

In Practice

and varied. These include enjoyable

in Textiles’ conference, in Bradford,

The continued relevance and

events in the Hall as well as those

which we co-sponsored with the

meaningful impact of a Livery

hosted by other Livery Companies

Drapers, the Weavers and the

Company is not a given. The

(to date, in London and Edinburgh)

Campaign for Wool; with the Textile

Clothworkers’ overarching purpose is

and a plethora of charity networking

Centre of Excellence in Huddersfield,

philanthropic and the Company’s

gatherings, open studios, talks, and

who deliver training; and with the

fellowship helps to underpin this. For

exhibitions – typically hosted by

Textiles Growth Programme, where

this ethos to translate successfully

organisations which have

we have recently supported a

into the ‘real world’, many Members

Clothworkers’ support in some

number of skills fairs for young

give their time and energy, pooling


teenagers who are considering

14 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

Making It in Textiles, Bradford

academic choices and possible career

the Clothworkers and Close Brothers.

Nursing Yeomanry; and I am


I dropped in as an observer and our

thoroughly looking forward to

attendees have told us that they

catching HMS Dauntless in British

In addition, we work with the likes of

found the programme very effective.

Waters and to meeting the

the Royal College of Art and Central

The next course commences in

Company’s friends within 47

St Martins where students employ



traditional and innovative skills in textile design; and with Cockpit Arts,

Our interest in being a catalyst for

supporting weavers with exceptional

excellent charitable trusteeship is

creative talent to turn this into a

also being expressed in our recently-

viable enterprise. In terms of textiles

announced Charity Governance

conservation, we much enjoy our

Awards 2016. This inaugural event is

collaborations with, for example, the

a highly collaborative co-production

British Museum, the British Library,

with NCP, Prospectus and Reach.

Historic Royal Palaces, the V&A and

Starting to spread the word, each of

the Ashmolean, and I look forward to

the partners is finding that we are on

getting to know these and others

fertile ground, with discussion of the

much better.

good governance (or otherwise) of charities being a very current topic.


Civic City At the start of this piece, I referred to

We also seek to foster skills and


the City and, whilst the timespan of

opportunity for our Members,

In a different sphere, another

the Company, and its daily focus,

notably in the sphere of Trusteeship.

exciting but, for me, still largely

differ markedly from that of the City

A number, together with non-

unfamiliar world, is that of the

as a world-beating financial centre,

Clothworkers, recently attended

Services with whom we are affiliated.

the Company values its relationship

Cause4’s Trustee Leadership

I have started to get to know the

with the City Corporation and is keen

Programme, which is co-funded by

Scots Guards and the First Aid

to support the mission of successive Lord Mayors in promoting the City of London and UK plc more widely. This account really only scratches the surface in terms of the goings-on in the world of the Clerk – and I discover new dimensions every day! Jocelyn Stuart-Grumbar

Winter 2015 | THE CLOTHWORKER | 15

Dates for Your Diary Young Livery Supper

Royal Geographical Society Lectures

“Endangered archaeology in the

Wednesday 24 February 2016

All lectures take place at

Middle East and North Africa”

Clothworkers’ Hall commencing

Dr Robert Bewley

at 7pm

Tuesday 23 February 2016

United Guilds Service and Luncheon

“Being a beast”

“Tea’s last guardians: the Himalayan

Friday 11 March 2016

Dr Charles Foster


Tuesday 9 February 2016

Jeff Fuchs

Masters and Clerks Dinner Tuesday 8 March 2016

Civic Dinner

Tuesday 22 March 2016

Tuesday 5 April 2016



Welcome to Hannah

We regret to report the

Dunmow who will cover

following deaths:

the role of Archivist while Jessica Collins is on

Albert Oliver, Freeman,

maternity leave. Having

in October 2015

started her archive career at Guildhall Library,

Hannah Dunmow

Hamesh Patel

The Clothworker | Design by Chris Monk | Printing by Trident Printing |

Stanley Heather CBE, Honorary Liveryman,

Hannah is delighted to return to the City, via

Likewise to Hamesh Patel

last thirteen years for UK

various archives including

in the new role of Director

listed property companies

the National Maritime

of Group Finance, Property

covering all areas of the

Museum, Transport for

and Investments. Hamesh

finance function. He is also

London and the European

is a Chartered Accountant

a Governor of Chislehurst

Commission in Brussels.

and has worked for the

School for Girls.

in August 2015

a photographer res from events where we have had Please remember that all the pictu Please ensure in the Members’ Area of the website. present are available to download il only. ema by s as we send event invitation we have your current email address t our events. if you have any queries abou Please contact events@clothworkers.c

Social Events

16 | THE CLOTHWORKER | Winter 2015

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.