The The Inn Inn at at Villa Villa Bambou: Bambou:
Boutique Hotel at its Finest Servotel:
Recycling!!! Bertrand Labarre:
Setting the stage for Haitian performers
Editor’s Note Dear Readers,
Wow, what a month! It has been a whirlwind, waiting with bated breath for reactions to the first edition of Magic Haiti. From you, the reader, from those featured in our pages, and from our advertisers. And thankfully, we have been overwhelmed by the positive response we have received. We would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you who believed in our dream. While still abuzz with excitement, we worked on this fabulous new issue. This month we highlight a recently discovered fortress built with pride back in 1804 by the citizens of our then new nation. Those of us who did not have the opportunity to visit the site of this historic garrison were in awe. And for those who were part of this excursion, history became a reality. As you flip through these pages, you will be able to identify must see destinations and uncover an array of distractions. You will read about artists, eateries, hotels being uniquely constructed, bookstores, and even open markets. And you will meet some interesting people and read what they have to say about our beloved island. The goal of the magazine is to promote local tourism by encouraging foreign professionals residing in Haïti for whatever length of time, Haitians living in the Diaspora visiting family and friends, as well as locals, to explore and discover the depth and breadth of Haïti. Admittedly, Haïti may not be the island that comes to mind when planning a magical Caribbean getaway for rest and relaxation or a vacation, but reconsider and you will be pleasantly surprised. We encourage you to simply Discover Haïti and experience the Magic!
Roxane Kerby
MEMBERS OF ATH
Agence Citadelle S.A. Air Caraibes Air France Air Transat / Hamaserco S.A. Aldy Hotel Berling S.A. Brasserie de La Couronne Cap Lamandou Hotel Club Indigo Coconut Villa
Codisa Cormier Plage Encocha Fondation Françoise Canez Auguste
Insel’Air Galerie Marassa Galerie Monnin Habitation Hatt Hôtel El Rancho Hôtel Ibo Lele Hôtel Karibe
Hôtel Le Xaragua Hôtel Villa Ban-yen Hôtel Villa Créole Idéal Villa Hotel Imp. H. Deschamps Groupe Oasis Iphasa Kaliko Beach Kinam Hôtel La Reserve Le Montcel
Le Plaza Le Ritz Les Cascades Fusion Les 3 Decks Montana Suite Horizon Mosaïques Gardere Moulin Sur Mer Nabatec S.A. Palm Residence Parc-Canne-à- Sucre Prince Hotel
Rhum Barbancourt Société Labadie Nord Sogecarte SirepTours The Lodge Top Line Uniglobe S.A. Visa Lodge Voyages Lumière Voyages Plus Cap Wahoo Bay
MAGIC HAITI Haiti on My Mind
OCTOBER 2011 12 29 14 22 32 34
Jacqueline Charles
16 3 4 26 6 18 8
Hot Dates
Escapade Le Plaza The Inn at Villa Bambou
Spotlight The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar
Why Haiti ? Bertrand Labarre
On the Rise Servotel Recycling!!!
Haiti by design Green Refuge
Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 roxanekerby@magichaiti.com Staff Writers Maureen Boyer Sherri Casting Copy Editors Nastasia Boulos Kristina Delatour Contributors Farah Doura Rachele Viard
Artisanat en Fête
Graphic Designers Rody Victor Clarens Courtois
Artmosphere
Photographers Frederick Alexis Homere Cardichon
Tanbou: The heart of music Levoy Exil: The legacy of St Soleil
Lamanjay Magdoos: Effusive Hospitality Café com’ ça
Postcard in motion A walk through the Past
Printed by
L’ Imprimeur SA
Publisher Le Nouvelliste Advertising
+509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646 publicite@lenouvelliste.com
facebook.com/magichaiti www.magichaiti.com
Hot Dates
rtisanat
A
rt & Crafts is omnipresent in Haitian culture; it’s in our veins. We breathe it, we feel it, we see it, we are moved by it, and it is an integral part of our daily lives. It is no wonder that Haitian art and artisanat (arts & crafts) are Haiti’s most prominent ambassadors. It is also not surprising that Artisanat en Fête, an art fair that takes place every year in the town of Tabarre, has become the cultural highlight of autumn in Haiti, attracting large crowds of visitors and tourists. For two days in the month of October, the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre is transformed into a splendid artistic showroom that exhibits the talent of local artisans. Patrons can view hundreds upon hundreds of stunning pieces of arts and crafts such
en
Fête
rtistic Explosion as embroidered tablecloths, paper mache masks, rings made of cow horn, sequined bags, and wood furniture. Launched in 2007, this colorful outdoor fair was conceived and organized by Martine Blanchard, founding member and President of the Institut de Recherche et de Promotion de l’Artisanat Haïtien (IRPAH) along with Mr. Max Chauvet, Director of Le Nouvelliste and Mr. Frantz Duval, Executive Editor of Le Nouvelliste. “The fair was established to highlight the talent of local artisans, afford them the platform to network or “get discovered,” and promote Haitian arts & crafts” says Chauvet.
This year, on October 22nd and 23rd, Artisanat en Fête will feature one hundred eighty artisans from around the country who will showcase their works which are the outcome of their artistic and innovative talents sometimes passed from one generation to the next. This exotic sampling of artistry and creativity are treasures that need to be preserved and popularized. “I believe that it is very important to develop and promote this industry; it is an important link in the national development chain. That is why we select artists from around the country that are skilled, experienced and able to produce” states Blanchard.
The audience is invited to participate at the on-site demonstrations and workshops, one of the Fair’s main attractions, in ceramics, sequins and métal découpé. As you stroll through the Parc, whether admiring the artifacts and handicrafts, or discovering how these works of art are fabricated, you can also enjoy local foods and drinks. Great arts & crafts are being created right here in Haiti and, thanks to Artisanat en Fête, you too will have the opportunity to explore the diverse genres of Haitian arts and crafts. If you your stay in Haiti concludes after the 22nd or the 23rd of October we recommend that you mark your calendar, get an early start on your holiday shopping and experience the magic that is Artisanat en Fête. OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 3
Artmosphere
Samba Zawo
Tanbou: The heart of music I
n every corner of Haiti, you can hear it: in a child’s footsteps as he scrambles on a crowded street, in a choir singing in a mountain top church, or on a stage where the dancer gracefully mirrors its rhythms. The pitter patter of drums, whether near or far, calls for your immediate attention. And like a moth drawn to a light, you cannot ignore it. To Samba Zao, one of Haiti’s best drummers and a founder of the Rasin music genre, the Haitian identity is directly tied to the Haitian drum, or tanbou, as it is called here. “The tanbou represents all of the different ethnicities that make up Haiti,” Zao says, “from North, East, West and 4 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
South Africa. But some of the Africans that were brought over didn’t become slaves, they ran away to be with the natives of the island. This shows in the diversity of the tanbou rhythms. The native’s rhythms and the colonizer’s rhythms mixed with all the different African ethnic groups make up the diverse sounds of the Haitian tanbou.” Indeed, the tanbou is an anthropological instrument, and many years ago, it was used as a mode of communication, a way to assemble people. As its fast repetitive tempo resonates through your body and its complicated twists and turns weave smoothly to your ears, you understand why.
But while its sounds are organic, the strength it takes to maneuver the tanbou while keeping rhythm takes years and years to master, as do the number of rhythms there are to learn. In fact, in Vodou music alone, there are dozens of categories of rhythms, and each represents a different ethnic group. The origin of these groups goes back to their importation to Haiti as slaves from Africa. Every rhythm is associated with a spirit, each with a distinct personality. The rhythms associated with the Rada spirits originally from the Fon people of Dahomey are calmer and smoother than the aggressive rhythms of the Nago spirits from the Yoruba ethnic group. The Ibo rhythms are faster and more upbeat than the erotic sounds of the Gede rhythms. Zao, a professor at the National School of Arts (ENARTS) in Port-au-Prince, learned to play the tanbou and its intricate rhythms from great vodou leaders. And though he does not practice the religion, he has acquired extensive knowledge of the vodou culture and of Haitian rural culture in general. Unfortunately, he says, “the tan-
bou has been widely associated with evil because of its role in traditional vodou ceremonies, and because of the misconceived beliefs linked to the religion.� Zao has spent a lifetime trying to remove this stigma, which is still, unfortunately, pervasive. Because of his master drumming skills and expertise in Haitian roots culture, Samba Zao has traveled the world and played for diverse crowds. He has inspired the best of dancers and has helped influence many students. His goal is to inspire a new generation to value and understand the tanbou. He wants the young people of the next generation to be as inspired as he was when he became a scholar in Haitian roots culture. He wants to spread the word about the importance of the tanbou as not only the heart of Haitian culture but the heart of music. It keeps history alive and unites mankind with its sounds. The tanbou is the fuel of music present and future. As long as there are tanbous, Haiti will have the chance to rhythmically communicate its story.
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 5
Lamanjay
A
s you lean back in colorful cushioned seats and enjoy some delicious middle-eastern food, or sip a cocktail while inhaling a hookah, the popular Middle Eastern water pipe, you may feel like you are in Beirut. But Magdoos, Haiti’s best-known Mediterranean restaurant, is located on a quiet street in the town of Petion-Ville. Magdoo’s menu is Mediterranean with an emphasis on Lebanese cuisine. The restaurant is a product of 30 years of family-owned establishments. Prior to Magdoos the family,
who is of Lebanese descent, owned two restaurants. With Magdoos, the goal was to provide authentic Mediterranean cuisine to the people in the greater Port-au-Prince area in a comfortable ambiance that can easily transform a one-time patron into a regular. The outdoor eating area is a mecca of green from the lush plants and foliage. At night, they sparkle under the soft warm lighting which bounces off the colorful MiddleEastern-inspired cushioned seats at the bar. Metal lanterns
Magdoos :
Effusive Hospitality
6 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
Dolma
babs (skewered meats and seafood). Slightly less adventurous? There are simple soups and pasta dishes. But don’t miss the dessert – there’s “baklava,” a flaky pastry served with chopped nuts and honey, or the “mighleh,” a cinnamon pudding, among other sweet treats. In addition to the food, the bar provides a diverse choice of cocktails like mojitos, cucumber martinis, Lychee martinis and a strong rum punch. Aside from drinks, you can order some hookah and choose from a varied amount of flavored tobacco (shishas). The mint shisha is one of the most popular. Magdoos’ young owners cater to a youthful and fun crowd. For some, it is not just a restaurant, it is a home away from home. From the delicious food, to the comfortable ambiance and friendly faces, Magdoos will quickly become one of your favorite hangout spots in Pétion-Ville.
hang from the ceiling Entering Weather too hot or heavy rains? Inside the seating is equally as attractive and you have the added benefit of inhaling the spices from the kitchen, insuring your meal is being cooked to order. Mediterranean cuisine is a mixture of food from diverse countries along the Mediterranean Sea and includes dish- Kibby naieh es from North Africa, Eastern Mediterranean and Southern Europe. Magdoos is known for its mezza spread, an array of small dishes in Lebanese cuisine. You can order fresh and delicious “kibby naieh,” raw spiced beef; try it with some olive oil. How about adding some hot Haitian pepper? The fish kibby is perfectly crispy on the outside without compromising the taste of the fish. A favorite dish is the stuffed grape leaves with rice and marinated minced meat. The fresh and perfectly herbed “tabbouleh” (bulgur, tomato and cucumber salad) or flavorful hummus (mashed chickpeas) served with toasted pita bread should preface any dish. Some of the main dishes include original dishes such as honey sesame chicken and various ke- Tabbouleh
Magdoos is located on #30 Rue Ogé, Pétion Ville. Open Monday to Saturday from Noon to 11 p.m
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 7
Postcard in motion
Fort Drouet / Habitation Dion / Habitation Lamothe
A walk through the Past By Farah Doura Photos by Jeff Kerzner
8 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
T
wo and a half hours north of Port-au-Prince, a compressed and winding dirt road leads to La Chaine des Matheux in the quaint commune of Les Délices. This region is not only known for its significant coffee production in the 18th century, but also for its importance in Haitian history: that of the revolution. To protect an independence so ardently fought, Jean Jacques Dessalines ordered in March 1804 the construction of a defense system to protect this newly acquired freedom. Upon his order, former slaves designed and built twenty fortified installations to guard against a potential backlash from their freshly defeated owners, the French. Unveiling a landscape rich in visuals of green banana trees, mottled brown and white livestock, a road brings to the remnants of such a revolutionary past: Fort Drouet. Thirteen hundred meters of altitude later, the view rewards with the impressive panorama of the gulf of la Gonâve and the valley of l’Artibonite. In a designated area, stopping to set off on foot, a path brings to the first relic: Habitation Lamothe. Vestiges of two coffee warehouses are identified on the first ground where this estate retained its imposing brick chimneys and wellpreserved oven. A monumental stair brings to the second ground which dominates the gulf and the valley and where from afar an impressive view of la Plaine de l’Arcahaie appears.
One can imagine the rich coffee harvested from “chained labor” to serve
the barons of colonial time that inhabited this mountain palace. Inquisitively the
mind wonders if the locals are potential descendents of former slaves of this area OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 9
Postcard in motion of lateritic soil, fresh green mint and verbena. Looking up the mount, thoughts contrast. Lamothe, a place of continuous trial of the slave psyche sits below Fort Drouet of imposing dominance from the hilltop where it belongs, proving what the freed mind can accomplish. The perfectly-preserved structure beckons the visitor to head up further. “Built on mountain tops…these outstanding lookouts are the first concrete act of taking possession of the territory by Haitians”_ ISPAN (Institute for the Preservation of the National Heritage). Raging from the fire still burning from the revolution, Drouet was built to respond to a hero’s command. Comprised of a thick stone wall, pierced with turrets for rifles and embrasures for cannons, this fort controls the entire valley and ensures visual contact with another: Fort Delpêche in the west. Several cannons idly sit at the entrance, never having actually fired since the “op-
10 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
pressor” had accepted defeat. Inside the 5 bastion fortress, the sense of life-on-guardconstantly-waiting-for-potential-return-of-enemy permeates. Of simple composition, a classic red lichen-covered gunpowder house sits next to two tanks for the storage of water. Further East, history still unfolds at Habitation Dion, a relic to contribute more insight to the expedition. This estate carries attributes rendering it the most important colonial coffee installation in the country. Along another ridge path through fields of corn and green bush, Dion awaits. On a surface of 4200 square meters, ruins of ingeniously constructed irrigation channels, rainwater cisterns and a structure that most likely served as a warehouse remain. But what surprises most are the three identical buildings of heavy masonry built around the large central court: the Slaves’ Quarters. For a moment, the mind kindly lost in the peaceful and
organic tone of the area, had forgotten hardship. But standing in front of seven cells of 4 meters square with a door and of course no windows, the slaves’ quarters at Habitation Dion set the record straight. Slavery, usually a textbook lesson, now feels real. “The slave quarter is a particularly eloquent testimony of the dramatic conditions of slavery in the XVIII century. These ruins give this historic site a symbolism of a universal scope” (ISPAN). Who would have thought history was happening so close? Anyone in search of contact with Haitian past can enjoy the experience of visiting those agriculture and military installations. Upon ending the journey, return to the capital or head North to relax at the beautiful beaches of Montrouis (Moulin Sur Mer for more relics). Either way, enjoy the local pride, a cold Prestige beer to reward yourself for having visited a rarely seen example of Haiti’s colonial past.
For more information on the ruins, please visit ISPAN’s website at www.haiti-patrimoine.org and to schedule a guided tour, contact Agence Citadelle at 509 3445-5900 or 3445-5902.
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 11
Escapade
Le Tropical Retreat in the Heart of Port-au-Prince
A
s you enter the lobby of Le Plaza H么tel and the doors close behind you, you quickly forget that you are in the heart of Port-au-Prince. Hearing only the sound of the wind passing through the trees, it is difficult to imagine the busy city life outside, and you are able to relax in a green environment. Since 2008, Le Plaza H么tel has been managed by a young and dynamic team who launched a long-term renovation program. Their stated daily commitment? Offering their guests and visitors a warm and caring service in an oasis of comfort. As the number of people who regularly come back to the hotel suggests, Le Plaza has successfully achieved this goal. Mostly attracting business travelers, the hotel offers a swimming pool located at the heart of a beautiful tropical garden, where guests can unwind as they sip on a variety of beverages like freshly made cocktails, juices or the popular local beer. The kind staff is readily available to cater to your every need. The 95 air-conditioned suites and standard rooms are comfortable and warm, with purple, orange and soft blue colors keeping with the fire of the Caribbean. The rooms are equipped with internet and television and laundry service is available. A buffet breakfast, lunch, and dinner are provided at La Terrasse bar and restaurant. Understanding the busy nature of their guests, easy and quick international snacks such as hamburgers, pizzas and sand-
12 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
Plaza wiches are also included on the menu. A Creole buffet is offered every Wednesday and guests may enjoy delicious specialties coming from Haitian provinces.It has become the lunch spot for many. And on Sundays, come and partake in the sumptuous barbecue buffet, while enjoying
the sounds of a typical Haitian Troubadour band. Le Plaza H么tel offers 6 conference rooms ideal for meetings, seminars, workshops, weddings and social events. One of the largest conference capacities in the Haitian capital, within a secure and relaxing compound.
A business center and private and safe parking for your vehicle are available. So come and spend time at this oasis where guests feel safe and calm. You will be welcomed by Creole smiles and warm Haitian hospitality, and will not regret your stay at Le Plaza.
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 13
Spotlight
The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar
Literary oasis
By Rachele Viard
T
ucked away in the Esperanza building on Rue Gregoire in the bustling city of Pétition-Ville is a literary oasis for all avid readers as well as those in search of a place to unwind with a good book. The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar, a small, new spot of literature and beverages, is one of the first of its kind in Haiti. Owner Christine Tesserot, says the inspiration for her enterprise is directly linked to the birth of her son three years 14 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
ago. She wanted to instill in him - from an early age - a love of reading and then realized that there was no convenient and comfortable place to take her son and read to him. Tesserot also wanted her child to be bilingual and there were not many children’s books in English. Her solution, The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar, a place where parent and child can spend quality time either curled up together or alone reading a good book in a unique and relaxing environment away.
The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar, Haiti’s only English bookstore in the metropolitan area surrounding the capital, has comfortable, sleek modern seating for adults. As the name suggests, the place offers a wide array of books in English. Browse fiction books like T.C Boyle’s “The Women” or Kathy Stockett’s “The Help”. Or peruse the selfhelp, yoga and cooking books. And, if you are not in the mood for books, the selection of magazines will not disappoint. And as you can imagine, in the rear of the store there is a dedicated children’s corner with a small child-size table, chairs and an array of age appropriate books. In addition to offering booklovers a wide selection to choose from, as well as a place to peruse them over coffee, The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar also offers wine, juice, sandwiches and salads. People appreciate and maybe have come to expect that there will be coffee in a bookstore. Tesserot has brought new life and energy in developing the concept for the
Bookstore. Several tables are located on the outdoor patio, providing a cozy setting for surfing the net while sipping some wine. As if the books, friendly service, and gourmet vibe were not enough, this innovative bookstore holds many special events including book signings, jewelry showings, and cocktails. And maybe, just maybe, Tesserot will bring back the troubadours on Thursday nights. If you have kids, bring them along. They will be sure to enjoy their visit to the Bookstore Café & Wine Bar. Regardless of the occasion, be it a quest for a good book, or a spontaneous brunch to catch up with old friends, The Bookstore Café & Wine Bar is worth a try. 87 Rue Gregoire, Building Esperanza, Petion-Ville Open 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 15
Haiti on my Mind
Jacqueline Charles Jacqueline Charles in Arcahaie
J
Haiti in my Blood
acqueline Charles is a member of The Miami Herald World News Desk and an award-winning journalist. Luckily, her profession has enabled her to remain close to her roots and the island she calls home. “Haiti has always been in my blood. My fondest childhood memories are always when I was in Haiti, even though I was born and raised between the Turks and Caicos and Miami” states Charles. Born in Turks and Caicos to a Haitian mother from Breto, a commune outside of Grande Rivière du Nord, and to a Turks Islander father, Charles was raised in Turks and Caicos and Miami by her mother and Cuban-American stepfather. Charles recounts that while in Turks and Caicos no matter what time of year she would travel
16 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
with her mother to Haiti and oftentimes she was pulled out of school. “My favorite toy as a child was my rocking chair, brought over to Turks and Caicos from Haiti. My childhood was one of frilly dresses like those you see on so many Haitian children on a Sunday afternoon” adds Charles. These trips afforded her the opportunity to bond with her grandparents and other family members. She tenderly recalls her visits to Haiti “On Rue 3 K in Cap-Haitien, I would watch in the morning as the shirtless man with the over sized pilon made fresh manba from scratch. The smell would travel through our house, complete with the pepper. I loved manba though today I cringed at the suggestion of eating it. Why? Well my mother
Photo by C.W. Griffin
always completes the story as I tell it. One day my cousins and I with nothing much to do, decided to have a contest -- who can eat the most manba. Well needless to say I was up sick all night. I haven’t touched it since.” Charles was a mischievous child who loved to spend time with her grandmother and play in the river. Sometimes she would purposely dispose of the water in the clay pots and declare “Pa gen dlo” (there’s no water). and off they would send her to fetch water. “I would spend more than an hour digging through the sand, playing and waiting for the spring of fresh water, watching the women cross with their wares on their heads and the children on the back of mules. Back then, O’Kap was so big to me, and yet so small. A town where I
could freely walk as I went on my search for freshly baked homemade bread and Cola Couronne.” Charles was so addicted to Cola Couronne that when she moved to Miami her aunts, especially her aunt Elvie, would send her caseloads of cola by boat. Jokingly Charles recalls “of course, I would have to send the bottles back on the boat when I was done. I was always done before the boat was ready to leave.” One day her mother asked her, “How did you get to be so Haitian?” “I do not know. I am my mother’s daughter, and whether because Haitian parents don’t talk much or speak in whispers, I developed a natural curiosity very early on about my mother’s homeland. That curiosity lead me on a continuous mission to discover and rediscover the place of my roots” says Charles. Growing in Turks and Caicos and Miami was very tough for Charles as a result of the stigma associated with Haiti. “I endured a lot of prejudice with name calling, and bullying as people told me Haitians ate cats and they have body order. I watched as fellow Haitians claimed to be born elsewhere, denying their roots and their lineage. I still remember the story of the Haitian American kid at Miami Edison High School killing himself after his girlfriend and her family discovered he was Haitian. I never denied who I was. Even the English-speaking side of my family questioned why I was so quick to
embrace my Haitianness and reminded me that I was not born in Haiti. And my Haitian family jokingly referred to me as the etranger (foreigner) because of my one-half Haitian blood.” “Like most Haitians coming of age in America my heart fluttered with pride when Wyclef walked across the stage of the Grammy’s draped in the Haitian flag, changing the way hundreds of thousands of us outside of the country viewed ourselves and our plight. And while I scream back with pride, Nap Boule in the clubs to the DJ’s Sak Pase I prefer my konpa and zouk to hip-hop and reggaeton.” It is therefore not surprising that Charles arrived in Haiti less than 24 hours after the earthquake and that she remained in Haiti for a year and a half to share with the world the destruction that occurred and the obstacles the nation faced. “Haiti is in my blood. It reminds me of what’s important in life and of the simplicity of life. There can be joy in sorrow, and hope in despair. Haiti for me is personal. It tells the story of my roots, of my past. It embodies my mother’s struggles and her dreams for me. It reminds me of who I am, of the importance and power of family” adds Charles. “Haiti is me and I am Haiti. It is more than the portrait of ruin and destruction or a place of misery and despair. It is rich in flavor: from the horns and keyboards of Tropicana to the drums of rasin music, from the meatballs
my cousin Yolette Augustin makes with lam veritab to the lam veritab dishes you find at La Coquille in Port au Prince and 3 Decks in Fermathe. I like my coffee strong and the kind found in andeyo, (outside capital) grounded with sugar, or whatever the machann decides to use that day. I prefer mango baptiste to mango francis (sorry).” “When I think of Haiti, I think of that distinct smell of the earth you only find in the outskirts of O’Kap. When someone talks of charity, I think of my grandfather Antiochus Louis-Charles, who donated parcels of his land to the government so that it could build a primary school in Breto, and children no longer had to cross a raging river into the town of Grand Rivye for an education. When people talk about the Madam Saras or machann I remember my grandmother, Victorie Dume, who gave birth to 11 girls and one boy. She was a strong and religious woman who attended church every day and traveled across the country with a donkey to sell what she grew in her garden. My Haiti is not one of hotels and drivers, but of the natural, breathtaking beauty of the countryside. The overcrowded Tap Taps (colorful public buses) and fast moving motorcycles through the streets. As far as the beach, I prefer the calming turquoise water of Chouchou Bay, a hidden area in the north of the country. The untouched sand and splendor of the water is a reminder of the po-
tential of tourism and what the country has to offer. Charles’ love of her country is felt in her words, in the manner in which she speaks. Her passion oozes for the simple things in life, the things that unite us all. She makes a statement that I strongly believe in. “History says we were the first free black republic. But they are mere words until you step back in time. That’s what I did on my recent trip. I went to the Citadel on horseback. Stepping into the mountaintop fortress, walking past the cannons, it hits you what we accomplished -- and what we can do -- when we put our heads together. We can make history, good positive history.” OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 17
Lamanjay
Café com’ ça By Rachele Viard
H
ealthy and delicious are two words we don’t often associate together, because if it is healthy it can’t possibly taste good, right? Well that’s not always the case; you don’t have to skimp on flavor or even take the fun out of food and dining out, at least not at Café com’ ca. Forget about eating simple veggies and plain iceberg lettuce (hold the taste)! The repertoire of dishes cuts the carbs yet the meals are delectable and satisfying. Visiting Café com’ ca is a unique experience in of itself. Aside from the menu, its location on the third floor in Complexe La Promenade in Pétion-Ville is a must stop on your culinary adventure in Haiti. Proprietor and Chef Florence Esper’s passion for food and healthy eating comes through in the menu.
18 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
The restaurant opened its doors two months ago in an attempt to create nutritious and perfectly proportioned meals. “The menu basically has a lot of things I really like, like salads and I love sushi” states Esper. It is no wonder that Café com’ ca offers impressive salads such as a grilled chicken with marinated tomato and mushroom salad, and an herb crusted goat cheese salad just to name a few. Other delicious must try items on the menu include a pork sushi roll, a traditionally Japanese dish done “à l’Haitienne,” a not only appetizing but beautifully presented lambi ceviche topped with papaya and caviar, and a grilled chicken Panini with special homemade fries. After such a well balanced meal, be sure to indulge your
sweet tooth with one of their tasty deserts such as the crème brulée cheesecake. This “boutique like restaurant” has a well trained staff that will make your dining experience even that much more enjoyable. After trying this restaurant, you are going to want to make frequent visits to Café com’ ca, as this insider discovered that Esper plans on changing things up and re-inventing the menu frequently, though the favorites are sure to remain. Café com’ ca is located in Complexe Promenade corner of Rue Gregoire et Moise, Peition-Ville Hours of Operation: Monday to Wednesday 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Thursday to Saturday 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 19
www.sanaquino.com info@sanaquino.com
AmĂŠnagement final
The next Caribbean hotspot belongs to Haiti !
Why Haiti ?
Bertrand Labarre:
setting the stage for Haitian performers By Nastasia Boulos
B
etween rows and rows of identical wooden houses, dozens of people left homeless by the January 2010 earthquake stood and watched, the expression on their faces altering between curiosity, confusion, sadness, and surprise. They looked on as a group of about fifteen young Haitian men and women
22 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
sang and danced on a makeshift stage, the bright colors of their costumes contrasting with the surrounding rocks and dirt of the giant public camp in downtown Port-auPrince. Standing on the side of a tent being used as a dressing room, a blonde-haired man watched with both pride and relief at the performance he helped to create.
Bertrand Labarre originally moved to Haiti in 2002 to teach Economics at the French school in the capital. There, he began organizing plays and musicals, and, in a school that placed little emphasis on arts and drama, he helped young students discover and develop their hidden talents. He returned to France in 2008
and obtained a Master’s degree in Management of Cultural Organizations, eager to develop a structure that would enable young Haitian performers to do what they love, while still being able to support themselves financially. With that in mind, and after dozens of meetings and many trips back in forth between Haiti and France, he created Haiti en Scene. Literally translated as “Haiti on Stage,” Haiti en Scene’s mission is to find talented Haitian singers, dancers, and actors and put them to work. Its aim is to make theater a means of expression and emotional reconstruction in Haiti. Which is why the performers, recruited from various parts of the country, perform in a variety of shows, but are also heavily involved in social work. They provide singing, dancing, and acting classes to children displaced by the January 2010 earthquake and, when possible, set up shows in the camps.
Labarre, who now works as the general and artistic director for the organization, does everything from contacting potential donors and setting up budgets, to directing rehearsals and adjusting the sound. Our interview is done in bits and pieces, as I manage to ask one or two questions between mic and costume checks, and last minute conversations with actors or donors. “All I do is work,” he says laughing as he stands in the sun for the third consecutive hour. It’s a tribute to Labarre’s character that he’s made such a commitment to the program. He explains that he always felt like this is where he belonged, a conviction confirmed after the earthquake. He was staying in a hotel that collapsed. “Surviving the earthquake,” he says, “even though my chances of dying were so high, convinced me that my place was
here. Since then, this feeling has not changed. Here, I feel like I’m doing something useful for humans. This does not have a price.” He adds, “In France, I wouldn’t have the same impact nor the same feeling of helping such a great number of young people move forward with their lives. Many of our counselors, and the people who participate in our workshops, are able to gain confidence in themselves, in their future.” The passionate director and former comedian, who enjoys Haitian konpa and folk music, says he has faced many challenges, both financially and emotionally. But what he has found the hardest to adapt to are the cultural barriers. “We are all French speakers,” he says, “but sometimes the members of Haiti en Scene - who are all Haitian - and I, have trouble understanding each other. The progress
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 23
Haiti en Scène members performing at Karibe Hotel, September 10th 2011
I’ve made in Creole hasn’t changed much either: you always have to keep trying to understand the meaning of actions, facts, gestures, or things said by the “other.” And this is true both ways, and it’s a real challenge.” He also explains that because of a mixture of cultural traits and painful past experiences linked to the relative decline of the country, there is a tendency to assume failure in Haiti. Performers need to be reminded that they can achieve what they want. And Labarre does not hesitate to motivate his actors, of whom he speaks with great excitement. “Little by little, mentalities change. With every successful rehearsal, show, workshop, they start to believe that they can. It doesn’t happen quickly, but many of our young members are now starting their own projects. That is probably what I am most proud of.” Haiti en Scene tries, with 24 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
A member of Haiti en Scène leads a dancing class for a group of children in a public camp in the outskirts of Port-au-Prince
its modest means, to put theatre back on the forefront of Haitian culture, so that the public can “take part again in this marvelous moment of a show, where performers can, in the space of a minute, create another universe.” This, he says, can convey any message more powerfully than words alone can. “There are so many artists, young and old, ama-
teurs and professionals, who can create good shows, but the infrastructure and the opportunities for artistic education are missing.” And, Labarre insists, he wouldn’t want to work anywhere else or with anyone else. “I always say that it’s not Haiti I love, but Haitians. You find a piece of humanity unlike anywhere else in the world. I think
this is what keeps me tied to this place. There is a surprising energy that emanates from the people. An energy that just needs to be channeled.” Standing in his grey Haiti en Scene shirt, I ask if he ever takes part in the shows. “No,” he says. “This is about the young performers. I am happy being on the sidelines and letting them shine.”
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 25
Artmosphere
Levoy Exil:
The legacy of St Soleil
L
evoy Exil didn’t originally set out to be an artist. He worked as a farmer, then as a construction worker, until the late renowned Haitian painter Jean-Claude ‘Tiga’ Garoute said to him: “The way you are working looks as if you are painting. Do you like to paint?”
26 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
Today, Exil is not only one of the most renowned painters in Haiti, but he is also an influential figure for many young artists. The Saint Soleil art movement, which Tiga initiated, molded Levoy Exil, who started painting in 1969. Tiga organized a community of
peasant artists (singers, dancers, craftspeople, actors and painters) into a movement that was named Saint Soleil, which became famous when French icon Adre Malraux visited the community in 1975. Exil credits his success to Tiga, founder of the Saint Soleil
School of art in the rural area of Soisson, Exil’s hometown located in the mountains above LaBoule. “Saint Soleil was a university of creation. When we were painting, Tiga never told us what to do, he encouraged us to be original. I had to find my individual liberty.”
Exil’s respect for Tiga and the Saint Soleil School is so profound that when he refers to his mentor, he prefers to use the term “change of life” rather than “deceased.” Exil believes his inspiration comes from nature, “The force of creation is really strong; when I am working. I have a direct relation with all the planets. I could be working and the cosmos search for colors for me.” When he started painting he used vegetable juices for coloring, roots, leaves, indigo, as well as charcoal to substitute for paint. Many of his projects have come directly from his dreams, he says. But his connection with nature goes beyond his work as an artist; nature is his guide through life. He explains a sign he received as a warning for the January 12th, 2010, earthquake: “On December 12, 2009, I was sitting here and the painting I was working on appeared all black in front of me, so I could not paint anymore. I looked around and saw that the mountains were all dark. I told my wife that something was going to happen, something that was worse than anything we had ever seen.” Exil’s paintings have been described as mystical and dream-like. He mostly uses the pointillism painting method, which is the use of small points to create a bigger image. No part of the canvas is left uncovered. Exil naturally distinguishes himself from most other Haitian painters not only by his technique, but also by the fact that he focuses on the spiritual rather than the
pragmatic aspects of Haiti. Exil’s first painting was presented in Andre Malraux’s 1976 book L’Intemporel,
where the famous French author compared Exil’s authenticity to Picasso’s. Selden Rodman heavily featured
Levoy Exil in his book on Haitian art - Where Art is Joy - as well. Throughout the years, Exil has received numerous OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 27
Artmosphere awards and gained worldwide recognition by collectors and art promoters. He has also participated in the Smithsonian’s annual Folklife Festival in Washington, DC. His paintings are exposed at a variety of galleries in Haiti, including Galerie Marrassa and Atelier Jerome. What’s most important to Exil is to pass on his knowledge. At the age of 66, he has created an environment around him that he hopes will inspire young artists in the way that Saint Soleil inspired him. Among his many students are his current wife and some of his children. He also mentors a group of young girls from his neighborhood, who organize
28 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
choreographed dances and compose original songs. Exil is also a poet and songwriter, and yet he still takes joy in cultivating the vast plots of
land he owns in Soisson. Last year, fearing that he would not recover from an illness, he painted an enormous canvas that he hoped to leave
behind for his 14 children, some of whom contributed to the painting. Exil will continue to paint until he, too has a “change of life.”
Escapade
The Inn at Villa Bambou:
Boutique Hotel at its Finest
I
n the suburb of Pacot lies a haven, a secluded destination away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Walking down the cobblestone pathway that leads to the Inn at Villa Bambou, a total sense of wonder takes over. Catching a glimpse of the exterior of the Inn as the gates open, you are excited to see what dwells within. Once inside the grounds, past the outdoor waiting area, you approach the front desk. The host, Mrs. Monica Ansaldi, an energetic and
warm woman, greets each guest with a warm and inviting smile. She leads you to the assigned suite, the curiosity begins to fade away and you feel as though you have been transported to a chateau in Italy. With beautiful dĂŠcor that includes chandeliers and lovely seating, as well as a balcony with a breathtaking view of the city of Port-au-Prince. The hotel evokes a Roman Empire feel within a Caribbean setting, a feast for the senses: Haitian made mahogany furniture perfectly contrasting OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 29
against the white walls, chandeliers drooping elegantly from ceilings while tropical plants and flowers rise majestically out of vases. Hallways lit by candles, romantic rooms with soft colors that create the perfect ambiance for those in love, and the furnishings at every turn, evoke royal like feelings. Opened in May 2011, the hotel started out as the Ansaldi’s private home. “Our home was very damaged after the earthquake and with our two kids in college, we were thinking, do we rebuild something smaller just for us, or do we rebuild something to share with others? As we turned our family room and little gym all into bedrooms, we said okay, we will rent it out to 30 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
the public. We used to have a lot of foreigners that would come to visit us, and whether they were friends or business partners of my husband’s, they always came back and loved our home,” Mrs. Ansaldi says. Attracting mostly temporary foreign businessmen who consult for companies that are located in the downtown area, the Inn at Villa Bambou allows its guests to avoid the traffic between downtown and PetionVille. The seven unique suites provide patrons with their own spacious living area, and guests have the privilege of a balcony and windows looking out across the city. Adding local flare to the hotel, suites are not numbered
but instead are named after local herbs, such as Laurier, Ti-bom, Thym, Citronel, Romarin, Basilic and Persil. The feeling within the hotel is very home like: guests are treated as family with personalized service. This classy boutique hotel is perfect for those seeking hospitality experiences that are unique and different, whether it is for a special occasion, a honeymoon, or just a weekend away. “I’m 4th generation Haitian; this is a way of giving back by showing foreigners what Haiti can really be like. Haiti gets too much bad press and I think we’re making that part [giving back] work. Cause when they walk up those stairs, they go “My God, I can’t believe I’m in Port-au-Prince”. That is what our whole inspiration and philosophy is,” Ansaldi says.
Although the hotel does not have a restaurant open to the public, guests are provided with gourmet style meals that include all things local. The idea, again, is to promote real creole food, such as the local favorites: rice and beans, goat with okra, and saltfish. Even breakfast gives a bit of local flavor – Kassav with spicy peanut butter, local jam, and of course, a great cup of Haitian coffee. The overall effect is homelike, this boutique hotel is perfect for those seeking hospitality experiences that are unique and different. Guests are bound to find something very special at the Inn at Villa Bamboo. The Inn at Villa Bambou #1 Rue Marfranc, Port-au-Prince. Phones : 2813-1724 USA: (706) 410-1326
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 31
On the Rise
Servotel
T
Recycling!!!
he damaging earthquake of 2010 wrecked many hotels in Haiti, some of which still have not been rebuilt, leaving the capital with a serious shortage of hotel space. To bridge this gap, several are being built in the greater Port-au-Prince area. One of which is the unique Servotel. Unique construction is the latest trend, worldwide many recyclable hotels are being built. The structure utilized the most to construct these recycled ho-
32 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
tels are shipping containers. They are in many ways the best building material. They are “nearly indestructible,” resistant to mold, fire, and termites. Additionally, they are antiseismic, hurricane resistant, waterproof, energy-conserving, and have a long life expectancy. Cargotecture has grown drastically over the past few years and has become popular not just in the construction of hotels but also in building homes, offices, penthouses, gyms and student housing.
“Yes shipping containers,” an award winning house was built in Redondo Beach, California, a Travelodge Hotel was recently erected in Uxbridge, England, and the largest container city in the world is the Keetwonen complex which houses college students in Amsterdam. And now an hotelier is building Servotel right here in Port-au-Prince, and yes you guessed it, constructed from shipping containers. Scheduled to open its doors in November 2011, it is the very first ho-
tel built utilizing this technology that meets international standards in Haiti. The 54 room hotel was built from 72 prefabricated recycled shipping containers. Still under construction, for the most part the hotel looks like any other hotel, unless, since the exterior of the building is being cladded, you get a glimpse of the blue steel structure. The interior of the hotel is “normal looking” it is difficult to differentiate between Servotel’s corridors and those of hotels built using traditional methods. The contemporary quarters are beautifully decorated and are equipped with a swanky bathroom, mini refrigerator and comfortable bed. The rooms and suites are very spacious, air conditioned, have natural lighting, free internet, and all the modern amenities that business travelers expect. Aside from its comfortable accommodations, Servotel will house a restaurant which will provide room service from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., meeting facilities, conference rooms, a business center, an outdoor bar and pool, a fitness room, and car park to suit guests’ utmost convenience. The hotel will have a Zen courtyard with a waterfall perfect for networking with other business persons or for a relaxing evening with colleagues. Catering and event planning will also be available. “We are going to train our staff because our focus is customer service. We want to provide a warm and welcoming service of international standard at Servotel” says Sebastien Buteau, one of the hotel’s managers. Servotel is conveniently located less than 5 minutes from both the Toussaint Louverture International airport and the Guy Malary airport, a small airport for chartered and domestic flights. Furthermore, the hotel is located in a key business district, close to a few of the major companies as well as the country’s only industrial park. “Business travelers, international journalists and consultants, diplomats, and individuals traveling to the provinces are going to be Servotel’s primary clientele. In addition, travelers with early flights from either airport can overnight at the hotel and enjoy the transfer service and arrive at the airport very relaxed” states Buteau. Moderately priced, this business hotel will provide professional services to its patrons. The management team has given a lot of attention to the creation of its daily lunch buffet. Guests will have an opportunity to savor reasonably priced tasty local dishes in a hospitable environment. However, for those seeking international favorites such as steak, hamburger, or a sandwich, they will be able to order “a la carte.” The builders have taken a bold step in constructing Servotel utilizing an eco-friendly and very safe recyclable material – shipping containers. As reconstruction is underway in Haiti, hopefully other builders will be inspired by the innovative route taken by the Servotel team. Should business travel require that you return to Haiti, consider staying at Servotel. If you are a traveler concerned with environmental issues or are adventurous, then Servotel should be your choice for a unique experience. OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 33
Haiti by design
Green Refuge
I
n the giant and crowded city that is Port-au-Prince, there lies a hidden oasis, a private tropical paradise existing on its own. Walking through the property, you feel peaceful and at ease, protected
34 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
from the outside world. And that is exactly what the owner had in mind when building her home, a Caribbean-inspired community-style property where both she and her brothers live with their families.
The house, located on a vast property, is a modern gingerbread-style home. Built with concrete walls, it is covered by steel slate rooftops, which allows the residents to listen to the pitter patter
of rain. “Just like you do in small houses in the provinces,” the owner adds, with a smile on her face. Wooden French doors and windows add an extra touch of elegance, and the veranda on the front part of the home is surrounded by locally made metal barristers. Colors are kept cool and light: soft yellow, pastel green, and white give it a true Caribbean flare. The owner believes that building more of such houses will ensure the continuity of Haitian culture and strengthen tourism. But what truly makes this house special, and what the owner is most proud of, is the surrounding garden. “A tropical garden with fruit bearing trees within a property is all a part of the Haitian rural culture,” she explains. In fact, in the provinces of Haiti, many subsist on fruit and vegetables that they grow themselves. “I am lucky to have eaten avocadoes and breadfruit with some cherry juice right from my backyard,” the owner says.
And it does not stop there. Her garden includes calabash, plantain, orange, mango, and siwel trees. There is also a wide array of plants, such as strelizia nicolai (a plant with big, wide leaves) and ferns. Orchids and hibiscus flowers add bright colors to the green background. Many of those plants and trees are almost extinct in Haiti, a conscious choice by the owner. But to her, plants are more than just a hobby, they’re a lifestyle. She believes in their power to heal. She states that having many trees and plants is not only beneficial to the environment but it also played an important role in keeping her house intact during the January 2010 earth-
quake. “I can honestly say that after last year’s earthquake, I felt a bit guilty feeling so good within my center, as the rest of the country was crying. I felt emotionally protected within my own private Eden” she says. “Even the birds that sometimes flee from humans have no fear within my garden” she continues on. The owner says she wants to take part in the reforestation of Haiti. “It’s only taken me about five years to create my garden in this area known for its dry soil; I know this country can become afforested in a short time frame. I believe in this land. The very next day after the earthquake, I heard the birds chirping again and the bees buzzing; I then knew that Haiti would be fine.”
restaurants Acajou Restaurant & Bar
Café de l'Europe
Anba Tonèl, Bar & Grill
Chez Wou
Haitian/international Cuisine Hôtel Montana Rue Frank Cardozo, Bourdon 2940 0585 / 3880 6610 Haitian Cuisine Angle des Rues Clerveaux et Villate. PV 3403 0822
French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé. PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 / 3 702 5591 Chinese Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626
Chicken Fiesta
Emina's Garden
Kay Atizan
Fabrizio
L'Olivier
Fior Di Latte
La Coquille
Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Magny, PV 3747 1177 / 2816 2005 Itilian Cuisine 26, Rue Louverture, PV 2257 8433
Haitian Cuisine 6, Rue Ogé. PV 2 940 0041
American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine. PV 2813 9866
Italian Cuisine Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Lamarre et Chavannes, PV 2813 0445
Babako
Citronelle
il Vigneto
Assiette Créole
Haitian Cuisine 254. avenue John Brown. Lalue 2813 1912
BreakTIme
Haitian Cuisine 38. Rue Darguin. PV 3515 6262 / 3554 0027
Café Com' Ça
Fusion Complexe Promenade. Angles Rues Grégoire et Moïse, PV 2943 20.4 / 3444 0607
36 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
Haitian Cuisine Shodecosa, 5 Rue des NÎmes 3558 8387
Coin des Artistes
Haitian Cuisine 59, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3747 1163
Domino's Pizza
Fast Food 91, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2514 7574 / 2813 1446 2813 1447
Italian Cuisine 7, Rue Rigaud, PV 3419 2050 / 3736 5414
Haitian Cuisine 43, Rue Magny, PV 3456 6989 / 3452 1772 Haitian Cuisine 37, route Montagne Noire 3455 4454 / 3467 0707 Haitian Cuisine 10, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 5225 / 3466 3908
La Plantation
French Cuisine Rue Borno, Bois Moquette, 22941 6334
La Réserve - ATH
HANG Sports Bar & Grill
2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 2940 0190
Intrigue
French Cuisine 48, Rue Geffrard, PV 3475 9795
31, angle des Rues Clerveaux et Rigaud, PV 2942 4264 Italian Cuisine Hôtel Ibo Lélé, Montagne Noire, PV 2940 8504
La Souvenance
La Table de Cauis
16, Rue Legitime, Champs de Mars 2940 7227
Le Christo Villa Russo
Les Jardins de Gérard
Océane Bar & Grill
The Lodge
Le Daily Gourmet Cafe
Look-Nun's Thai Restaurant
Papaye
The View
Corner Rue Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166 Rue Roumain off Tabare same yard as Maison Handal across Parc Canne a Sucre. Email: Ledailycafe@gmail.com +509 3411 5274
Le Florville
Haitian Cuisine Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161
Le P'tit Creux
Haitian Cuisine 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893
Le Paris St Tropez
17, Rue Pinchinat, PV 3449 5943
Thai Cuisine 35, Rue Villate, PV 3724 1661
Mikaz
Fusion 56, Rue Geffrard, PV 2256 2659 / 3727 5951
Mozaik
Fusion 89, Rue Grégoire, PV 3702 3939
Mr. Grill Steak House
88, route de Kenscoff, Laboule 12 3410 7219
Fusion 39, Rue Rigaud. PV 3620 4954 / 3620 4844
Les 3 Decks - ATH
Muncheez
Les Délices Burger
O Brasileiro Social Club
Fusion3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201 Fast Food 97, Rue Grégoire, PV 3646 1600 / 3646 1601
Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392
103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050
Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt PV 2940 2449
Fusion Furcy. après Kenscoff 3458 5968 / 2510 9870
Pizza Garden
Fusion Complexe Le Belvédère. Angle des Rues Chavannes & Clerveaux. PV 3632 7706
Presse Café
Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman. Bicentenaire
Fusion 48. Rue Métellus. PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678 Italian Cuisine 36. Rue Chavonnes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200 Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud. PV 3 701 0092
Quartier Latin
Fusion 10, Rue Gou/ard. Place Boyer. PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325
Tiffany Restaurant
5 Coins
20, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2511 1044 / 2257 0277
Celeri Rouge
88, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3719 9670 / 3587 9670
Rebo Expresso
25, Rue Métellus. PV 2949 0505
The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar Esperanza Building, 87,Rue Grégoire. PV 3774 6729
facebook.com/magichaiti www.magichaiti.com
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 37
travel companion Hôtel du Village
(Port Salut) portsaluthotelduvillage@yahoo. fr +509 3713- 9035
Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe ATH - (Cap Haitien)
hotroi24@yahoo.com 3 687 8915
Résidence Royale
Côte Caraïbe Cap Lamandou- ATH
Jacmel +509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436 caplamandouhotel@yahoo.fr
(Cap Haitien) golfromes@hotmail.com +509 3602-6676 2942- 0540 / 2813- 7959
Hôtel Villa Ban Yen
Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH
Auberge du Mont Saint Jean
(Cap Haitien) hotelmontjoli@gmail.com +509 3943-1110 / 2262-0300
Auberge du Picolet
(Cap Haitien) auberge.picolet@gmail.com + 509 2945- 5595 3438-6357
Hôtel Beaux Rivages
(Cap Haitien) beaurivagehotel@yahoo.fr +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583
Cormier Plage-ATH cormier@hughes.net +509 3702-0210 3804- 6673 / 3556- 1549
(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) absept60@yahoo.fr +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091
(Vallée de Jacmel) aubergesaintjean@yahoo.com +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789
L’Amitié Guest House :
Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582
Hotel Florita
Located in Jacmel +509 3785-5154 2288-2806 / 3905- 1732 hôtelflorita@yahoo.fr
La Colline Enchantée
(Marigot- Jacmel) lacollineenchantee@gmail.com +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97
Auberge du Rayon Vert
(Port Salut) aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr www.aubergedurayonvert.com +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728
Dan’s creek
(Port Salut) danscreekhotel@gmail.com www.danscreekhotel.com +509 3614-8143 3664- 0404
Relais du Boucanier
(Port Salut) lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com www.leboukanier.com +509 3558- 1806 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806 3720-1144
Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy (Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800
Le Recul
(Camp Perrin) valnuma@yahoo.fr +509 3454-0027 3727-3589
Port Morgan
(Ile a Vache) portmorgan@hughes.net, www. port-morgan.com +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154
Manolo Inn
(Petite Rivière de Nippes) lemanoloinn@mac.com +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201
38 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011
kalikobeachclub@hotmail.com +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223
Wahoo Bay-ATH
wahoo@dadesky.com +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831
Moulin sur Mer-ATH info@moulinsurmer.com + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918
Club Indigo- ATH
contact@clubindigo.net, reservations@clubindigo.net + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000
Xaragua Hôtel- ATH
lexaraguahotel@yahoo.fr +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983
Ouanga Bay
+509 3756- 5212 3932-5810 ouangabay@hotmail.com
(Aquin) nancyecomeau@yahoo.fr +509 3458-2566 3741-0532
Port-au-Prince
(Cyvadier- Jacmel) hotelcyvadier@hughes.net +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265 (Ile a Vache) abakabay@hotmail.com +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253 www.abakabay.com
Kaliko-ATH
Aldy Hôtel- ATH
Cyvadier Plage
Abakabay
Côte des Arcadins
Coconut Villa-ATH
Centre Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou
(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@ yahoo.com
Hotel Maguana (Hinche) 2277-0528
Wozo Plaza
(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256 wozoplazahotel@yahoo.fr
3, Rue Berthold, Delmas 19 3 179 3752 / 2 510 4901 3 556 1549 coconutvilla19@aol.com
El Rancho-ATH
5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707
Habitation Hatt-ATH
+ 509 2510-2635 / 2940-0135 sachasaieh@hotmail.com,
Ibo Lélé-ATH
elsabaussan@yahoo.com, jvinchy@yahoo.fr +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503 / 2940- 8504
Ideal Villa
6 Delmas 53, Rte de Delmas
Karibe Hôtel-ATH
info@karibehotel.com 2812- 7000 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140 www.karibehotel.com
Kinam Hôtel-ATH
info@hotelkinam.com , reservation@hotelkinam.com +509 2944- 6000 2945- 6000 /2945- 6001 2511- 4400 www.hotelkinam.com
La Réserve Guest House-ATH+509
Montana Suite Horizon-ATH Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610
Palms Résidence
palm.events@gmail.com +509 3706-7342 3454-0053
Prince Hôtel--ATH
princehotelha@yahoo.com +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422
The Inn at Villa Bambou
Airlines
Spirit Airlines
Air Caraïbes - ATH
Tortugair
+ 509 3704 4560 www.aerolineasmas.com +509 2813 1037 www.aircaraibes.com
Air Canada
+509 2810 5857 www.aircanada.com
Port-au-Prince www.villabambouhaiti.com +509 2813-1724
Air France - ATH
Le Montcel-ATH
The Lodge--ATH
American Airlines
Villa Créole--ATH
Continental Airlines
3701-1744 3702-7202
Le Ritz-ATH
+509 2943- 0303 apartement@hotelkinam.com catering@hotelkinam.com
Le Plaza-ATH
info@plazahaiti.com, reservations@plazahaiti.com 2940- 9800 3701- 9303 www.plazahaiti.com
Furcy +509 2510 9870 / 3458 5968 +509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040 villacreol@aol.com
Villa Ban-Yen
Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) +509 3420-2091/2941-2091 hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com
Visa Lodge--ATH
services@visalodge.com +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424 www.visalodge.com
Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222
Aerolineas Mas
3452-3065 / 3510- 5026 3510- 4678 / 3940- 0182
(Kenscoff- Belot) montcel@aol.com/ www.montcelhaiti.com +509 3701-4777
SALSA d’Haiti
+ 509 3115 5000 www.airfrance.com +509 2229 6000 www.aa.com
www.continental.com
Copa Air
+509 2940 2326 29402327 www.copaair.com
Delta
+509 2943 3582/2816 1666
Insel Air International- ATH +509 2813 0403 www.fly-inselair.com
+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422 www.spirit.com + 509 2812 8000
Turks & Caicos Airways www.airturksandcaicos.com
Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900 www.agencecitadelle.com
Uniglobe - ATH
uniglobe@haine.net +509 2941 0742
Voyages Lumière - ATH
voyageslumierehaiti@gmail.com + 509 3607 1321 www.voyageslumiere.com
Voyages Plus Cap-ATH vpcap1@gmail.com +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 39
travel companion Car Rental Avis
20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de lAéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555
Budget Rent-a-Car
Corner Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988
Dollar Rent-a-Car
Blvd, Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950
Europcar
13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556
Transborder Bus Lines
Capital Coach Lines
info@capitalcoachline.com +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777
Caribe Tours
caribetours@gmail.com +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946
Terra Bus
chatour@hotmail.com
Airport Shuttle Service Airport Express + 509 3445 5902
Pharmacies Obonsoins
107, Rue Loverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 3800 3737
Pharmacie du Boulevard
1, Corner Blvd. du 15 October & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 3808 9050
Pharmaximum 12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116
Hertz
Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700
Secom
We are also available online
www.magichaiti.com
564 Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941
general info PASSPORT & VISA
CREDIT CARDS
No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid Passport is mandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Colombia, Panama, Dominican Republic & Cuba.
Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist establishments. Cash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs.
ELECTRICITY 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets
CURRENCY The national currency is the Gourde (ISO Code: HTG) The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Currency exchange is available in many banks or hotel front desks. The current rate is around USD1.00 for HTG 41.00 It is advised to convert your home currency into USD before leaving since the local rate of conversion is not always advantageous.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Public transportation is not very well organized and is part of the folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and 4x4s) are available from various agencies. Local incoming travel agencies can also arrange cars & minibuses with drivers & guides for transfers and excursions.
INTERNET ACCESS Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & in rooms. Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere.
TELEPHONES Country code for Haïti: 509 Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whether it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.
MEDICAL CARE The hotels have a list of private doctors available for emergencies. Private hospitals offer better service than public ones. Air ambulances may be required for cases requiring transportation to facilities in the region. Several drugstores and pharmacies are available.
LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT Several local airlines offer regular flights with aircrafts of up to 19 seats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for air taxi/charter services can also be organized to various other areas of the country.
BANKS Local & international banks have an extensive urban coverage. A limited number of ATMs is available.
pote ba ou
Pale GRATIS tout wikenn nan. Rechaje kont ou apati 600 Gdes. PASE SOU REZO KI P AP JANM LAGE W LA. WWW.VOILA.HT
OCTOBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 41
Nou se Ayiti
42 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2011