The Cognac Conversation

By Michael Tulipan

The characteristic complexity of a RÉMY MARTIN Cognac offers bartenders endless creative cocktail possibilities.

One of the most storied names in cognac, Rémy Martin, has stood the test of time for nearly three centuries. Its tradition of innovation and ability to reach new generations of drinkers keeps the House at the forefront of cognac production today.

The Rémy Martin story began in 1724 when a young winegrower in Cognac started selling cognac under his own name. By 1738, his reputation was well established, and King Louis XV granted him dispensation to plant new vines. The 19th century brought the company’s cognacs outside Europe to the Americas and Asia. The 20th century meant investment in technology and innovation with new products like an X.O., the 1738 Accord Royal tribute to King Louis XV’s proclamation, and the recently launched Tercet.

Rémy Martin works with nearly 800 winegrowers exclusively in the Petite and Grande Champagne crus, renowned for the quality of grapes that produce eau-devie that are exceptional for cognac making. Picked just before full maturity, the grapes become an aromatic, acidic wine perfect for distilling. Nine liters of wine are distilled to make just one liter of Rémy Martin eaude-vie, and only the most exceptional eaux-de-vie are chosen for aging. “My job is to blend and harmonize the unique eaude-vie once it has been aged to create the exceptional quality of cognac that has been signature to the House since 1724,” says Rémy Martin Cellar Master, Baptiste Loiseau.

The newest addition to the Rémy Martin lineup, Tercet is, Loiseau says, ”the result of three talents driven by curiosity and passion to bring a new kind of cognac to life.” More than ten years ago, he came across an eau-de-vie that diverged from those traditionally used by the House. He thought the discovery might be an intriguing base for a new blend and sought out the expertise of wine producer Francis Nadeau and the previous Master Distiller Jean-Marie Bernard.

The result is a blend from a selection of fresh, fruit-forward distillates that upends cognac conventions while remaining true to the Rémy Martin ethos of collaboration to achieve excellence. “It is a unique Cognac Fine Champagne blended from aromatic eaux-de-vie with notes of fresh and tropical fruits,” Loiseau says. Tercet also serves as a tribute to the origins of Rémy Martin as the only major Cognac House founded by a winemaker.

Cognac has enjoyed continued growth despite the considerable headwinds created by the pandemic and ensuing global supply chain challenges. The rise of cognac in the United States for more than half of all cognac exported from France has continued unabated. According to Impact Databank, cognac crossed the eight million case mark in the states for the first time, nearly twice as much as just five years earlier. Cognac was also the second-fastest-growing spirits category in the country last year, behind only readyto-drink cocktails.

The three pillars of pandemic living, consumers seeking out higher quality, athome consumption, and e-commerce have all contributed to cognac’s success in the past two years. With on-premise coming back, there are few limits to the category’s growth. But customer expectations have changed, and bars should also be prepared to change. “It’s a reimagined on-premise where drinkers are expecting more in terms of experiences, cocktails, and mixology culture,” says Amaury Vinclet, Global Executive Director, Rémy Martin. “It’s a real opportunity for on-premise with the savoir-faire that bartenders can provide.”

Part of the challenge for any brand with such a long heritage is reaching the next generation. Vinclet believes Rémy Martin is well-positioned thanks to investment in e-commerce and partnerships with chefs and brands like MICHELIN. The brand will work with MICHELIN to promote its star ceremonies worldwide, and the green star, which highlights restaurants engaging in sustainable gastronomy. “From supporting speeches delivered during the MICHELIN Guide events to sustainable recipes shared every month on social media,” Vinclet says, “the joint ambition is to raise awareness about the challenges of tomorrow’s cuisine, encourage positive change in the industry and work towards a more sustainable, responsible future for all.”

Both Loiseau and Vinclet believe that the brand is well-positioned to appeal to Millennials looking for craftsmanship, authenticity, and strong values. The MICHELIN partnership, especially with the green stars program, speaks to the company’s values and dedication to sustainability, an undertaking that dates to 2007. Since 2014, it has been working with winemakers to achieve HVE certification, the highest level of environmental certification given by France’s Ministry of Agriculture and Food. This program takes a holistic approach to reduce agriculture’s impact on the environment. Already, 50% of Rémy Martin’s partner growers have achieved the certification.

“It is also cognac’s unique position as the only spirit to come from a defined place with a clear set of rules that makes it attractive for consumers looking for authenticity,” remarks Vinclet. “The transparency, quality and traceability of brands like Rémy Martin coupled with the fact it is such unique and characterful spirit is pivotal in achieving new opportunities.”

Bartenders value cognac for its versatility, whether as a cocktail’s base spirit, sipped neat or on the rocks. “It also makes a perfect accompaniment

Rémy martin cellar master, Baptiste Loiseau

to a wide variety of dishes,” Loiseau says. Some upcoming initiatives will highlight the pairing of food and drink with tastings of X.O. on ice paired with chocolate, Tercet with pineapple fruit, 1738 in a Sidecar cocktail with Cointreau, and an Espresso Martini with the multi-layered flavors of the 1738.

Cognac and cocktail history are intertwined, and the spirit continues to be an excellent foundation for bartenders to create drinks anywhere on the taste spectrum from dry to sweet. The distinctive line from Rémy Martin, from classic V.S.O.P. to an expertly blended X.O., to unique creations like the 1738 and floralforward Tercet, offers bartenders endless possibilities. “Though each cognac may be unique in profile,” Loiseau says, “the characteristic aromatic complexity of a Rémy Martin cognac Fine Champagne never fails to surprise.”

It is also cognac’s unique position as the only spirit to come from a defined place with a clear set of rules that makes it attractive for consumers looking for authenticity.

- amaury ViNCleT Global Executive Director, Rémy Martin